• 专利附录
  • 专利说明
  • 权利要求
  • 类似技术
  • 同族专利
  • 引用文献
  • 法律状态
  • 优先权
    • 专利摘要:
    In a piece formed of an outer face of the collar (15) and of an inserted part (1) a flexion area is formed having two pleats (I, II); these two pleats are joined together by seams (16, 17). The formation of these pleats is readily achieved by the presence of the inserted portion (1); in the flexion area, the inserted portion (1) which is generally stuck to the outer face of the collar (15) has non-reinforced bands (6, 7) in the area of the pleats (I, II) and a band for the flexion. The bands (6, 8) may also be replaced by incisions or perforations. The piece thus formed may be sewn, turned over and quilted with the lower part of the collar (20) as a one-piece collar. Despite the appearance of higher labour and material cost with the respect to a one-piece collar, the two-piece collar is a label of quality for the garment.
    公开号:SU1075944A3
    申请号:SU802977956
    申请日:1980-08-21
    公开日:1984-02-23
    发明作者:Бэхтигер Урс
    申请人:Гыгли Техник А.Г. (Фирма)；
    IPC主号:
    专利说明:

    The invention relates to clothing manufacture and can be used for making clothing collars, for example (measures for a shirt, blouse, etc.) A shirt collar consisting of a swing piece and a stand made in one piece, the upper and lower name is known. Layers of stylish material and spaced between them with variable stiffness and with a longitudinal slit in the place of inflection of the departure part l However, the well-known solution can not give the collar, which consists of one part, the appearance of the collar, and two parts, which reduces its quality. The purpose of the invention is to improve the quality of the collar. This goal is achieved by the fact that the collar for the shirt, consisting of the flying part and the stand, is made in the form of a single piece, having upper and lower layers of textile material and between them is a gasket with variable stiffness and with a longitudinal slit in the place of inflection of the departure part; the gasket has two additional longitudinal slits located on the stand parallel to the longitudinal slit located in the place of inflection of the departure the parts, and two U-shaped folds, the convex parts of the latter are directed in opposite directions, and the convex part of each fold is located on the corresponding line of the additional longitudinal slot and secured with a filament stitch. At the same time, the upper layer of textile material has U-shaped folds formed at the locations of the i-shaped folds of the gasket, and the convex part of each fold is connected with the convex part of the corresponding fold of the gasket and secured with a thread seam. Figure 1 shows a partially shim for a collar; in FIG. 2, the upper layer of the textile material J in FIG. 3 shows the fold of the upper layer of the textile material to the strip J in FIG. 4 shows the formation of the first fold of the upper layer of the textile material and the strip; FIG. 5 - inverted collar after the second fold is formed and stitched together with the bottom layer of textile material of the bottom side BOpoTHHKaj in Fig. 6 - the same, but with a smooth bottom layer of textile material in Fig. 7 - the departure part of the collar with the stand} in Fig. 8 - pro laying the collar in the formation of two folds, in FIG. 9 shows the fold or bend area of the gasket in accordance with FIG. 8 with a folded fold; FIG. 10 shows a perforated gasket in the area of the fold or bend points; FIG. 11 shows the fold or bend area of the upper textile material and the gasket bonded to it; 5, but with perforation of the gasket at the fold; 12, the same, but with a cut fold. The shirt collar contains the departure part 1 and the rack 2 made in one piece, the layer 3 of textile material and the gasket 4 between them with the hard part 5 (cross-hatched) and the non-rigid soft parts (without shading) in the form longitudinal slits 6-8, which form folds when forming the collar. The longitudinal slit 7 is a fold between the outer upper part 9 of the collar visible from the outside and the inside of the neck 10. The gasket has allowances 11-13 for the seam and is connected to the upper layer 3 of the collar, for example, it is glued together. The gasket contour is overlapped by the contour of the upper layer 3 of the textile material at points 14-16. The additional two longitudinal slits 6 and 8 are parallel to the longitudinal slit 7 located at the bend point of the departure part 1.. In the manufacture of the collar, the gasket 4 forms folds 1 and II, the convex parts of which are directed in opposite directions, and a part of each fold 1 and II protrudes on the corresponding line of the additional longitudinal slits b and 7. Inside the fold 1 is the top layer 3 of the textile material of the collar and a fold fastened with a thread seam 17. The necks of the collar 10 are folded to form fold II, sewn together with both sides of the fold 1 with stitch 18. By forming folds I and Tl. and fixing them with sutures 17 and 18, the preparatory operations are completed to form a collar. The upper layer 3 of the collar thus formed is still stitched together with a smooth, unbent lower layer 19 of the collar, thus forming a part consisting of three layers and two folds 1 and II. The smooth layer 19 can have a correspondingly smaller width and, as in normal The one-piece collar is stitched with the top layer 3 of the seam 20. Then the collar is turned out, the top layer 3 of the collar and its bottom layer 19 are located outside, and the seam 20 inside. On the edges of the neck 10, allowances 21 and 22 are provided for a seam, which are sewn with an item of clothing, for example, a shirt or blouse. The edge of the upper half of the collar 23 may be provided with another seam 24. After sewing the neck 10 with the item of clothing, a bend may be formed. The upper half of the collar 23 folds along the longitudinal slit 7 relative to the neck 10, while in the lower half of the collar along the edge there is no crimping of the seam. Due to the different lengths of the slits 68, a shape is formed, which otherwise can only be obtained in a composite collar with different curvatures of the top 10 of the half and neck of the collar. Gasket 4 can be made in any way. Slot 6 and 8 can be stamped, the bend of the slot Slot 7 can in this case also be tightened or stamped.
    Gasket 4 (Fig. 7) is provided with stiffeners. Between the upper 20 half of the collar 23 and the neck 10, a first fold I is formed on the side of the upper half of the collar and oppositely directed to the second. pleat II on the side of the neck, sewn together with the upper half of the 23 seam 18. With further processing, the gasket 4 is primarily glued to the upper layer 3 of the collar. Then the lower layer 19 of the crochet is stitched with a seam, .. 20 and the collar is inverted. The hem of the upper half of the collar 23 may be provided with a seam 24, and the allowances 21 and 22 on the neck 10 are stitched with the item of clothing.
    The fold 1 (FIGS. 9 and 10) may have perforations 25, thereby establishing the position of the folds 1 (FIG. 11) and at the same time facilitating the formation of a fold or bend region between the upper half of the rotary half and the neck 10. Longitudinal may be provided instead of the perforation 25 slot.
    Perforation 25 may be used in a gasket that is tightened with parts 26 and 27.
    If the formation of the fold area or the fold of the collar is done after gluing the gasket 4 to the outer layer 3, then the gasket can be perforated to reduce the application of folds. A further reduction in the deposition of folds is achieved when, instead of perforation 25, fold I is cut and thus its edge is removed (Fig. 12).
    In the formation of folds 1 and P, the formation of a gasket with rigid strips can be varied in any way.
    Due to the folds of the fold of the outgoing part of the collar with the stand, the segmentation of the seam does not occur; forms are formed that can be obtained only in a composite collar with different curvature of the outward part of the collar and its neck. - All this contributes to the manufacture of collars with good quality indicators,
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    权利要求:
    Claims (2)
    [1]
    1. · A SHIRT FOR A SHIRT, consisting of a take-off part and a stand made in the form of one part having an upper and lower layers of textile material and a gasket located between them with variable stiffness and with longitudinal cuts at the bend of the take-off part, characterized the fact that, in order to improve quality, the gasket has two additional longitudinal slots located on a stand parallel to the longitudinal slot located at the bend of the take-off part, and two i-shaped folds, the convex parts of the latter It claimed in opposite directions, and the convex portion of each fold located on the corresponding line of the additional longitudinal slot and fixed by stitching a seam.
    [2]
    2. Collar pop. 1, with the fact that the upper layer of textile material has two U-shaped folds formed at the locations of the U-shaped folds of the strip, and the convex part of each fold of the upper layer of textile material is connected to the convex part of the corresponding folds of the strip and secured with a thread seam.
    Priority on points:
    12.22.78 according to claim 1.
    10/18/79 according to claim 2.
    Figure 1
    1075944 A ”
    in the area of folds or places of inflection, in FIG. 11 - the area of folds or in excess of the upper layer of textile material and the gasket glued to it, similarly to FIG. 5, but with perforation of the strip in the place of the fold) in FIG. 12 “the same, but with a cut fold. The collar for the shirt contains a take-off part 1 and a stand 2, made in the form of one part, a layer 3 of textile material and a gasket 4 located between them with a rigid part 5 (cross hatched) and non-rigid soft parts (without hatching) in the form of longitudinal type of collar, co-15 zey 6-8, which form folds when forming the collar. In this case, the longitudinal slot 7 is a fold between the upper half 9 of the collar visible from the outside and the neck 10 located inside. The gasket has allowances 11-13 for the seam and is connected to the upper layer 3 of the collar, for example, glued.
    I
    The contour of the gasket "e is overlapped by the contour of the upper layer 3 of textile material in places 14-16. An additional two longitudinal slots 6 and 8 are parallel to the longitudinal slot 7 located at the inflection point of the takeoff. part 1.
    In the manufacture of the collar, the gasket 4 forms folds I and 11, the convex parts of which are directed in opposite directions, and you. the puffy part of each fold Ϊ and II 35 is located on the corresponding line of additional longitudinal slots 6 and 7. Inside the fold 1 there is an upper layer 3 of collar textile material and a fold secured with a fillet seam 17. The neck 10 of the collar is bent to form a crease II sewn together with both sides of the fold 1 seam 18.
    By forming folds I and N. and fixing them with sutures 17 and 18, preparatory operations for the formation of a collar are completed. Thus formed in the upper layer 3 of the collar is still sewn together with a smooth, non-bent lower layer 19 of the collar, and a part consisting of three layers and two folds 1 and II is formed. The smooth lower layer 19 can have a correspondingly smaller width and, as in a normal solid collar, seams with the upper layer 3 with a seam 20. Then the collar is turned out, the upper layer 3 of the collar and its lower layer 19 are located outside, and the seam 20 is inside. At the edges of the neck 10, seam allowances 21 and 22 are provided, which are sewn with an element of clothing, such as a shirt or blouse. The edge of the upper half 23 of the collar may be provided with another seam 24. After stitching the throat
    类似技术:
    公开号 | 公开日 | 专利标题
    SU1075944A3|1984-02-23|Shirt collar
    US3470568A|1969-10-07|Surgical hospital garment
    US3858243A|1975-01-07|Method of manufacture of jackets and like garments provided with fastening elements
    US3478366A|1969-11-18|Garment hem construction
    US1862377A|1932-06-07|Garment edge
    US2354205A|1944-07-25|Collar and method of making the same
    US2942274A|1960-06-28|Scarf and method of forming the same
    US3409912A|1968-11-12|Watch pocket construction
    JP3618790B2|2005-02-09|Shirt manufacturing method
    US3663961A|1972-05-23|Necktie
    US3657743A|1972-04-25|Necktie construction
    US3076215A|1963-02-05|Process for the manufacture of clothing articles, more particularly shoes
    US2369442A|1945-02-13|Neckwear
    KR102094492B1|2020-04-24|T-shirts
    US2289479A|1942-07-14|Collar construction
    US2774076A|1956-12-18|Tubular necktie and mode of making same
    US1977802A|1934-10-23|Garment and method of making the same
    US1655765A|1928-01-10|Fold-over collar
    US1434973A|1922-11-07|Trousers-waistband construction
    CN210248524U|2020-04-07|Edge connecting structure of composite wool rolling jacket
    US2285528A|1942-06-09|Necktie construction
    US1524238A|1925-01-27|Collar and method of making the same
    US1813304A|1931-07-07|Collar
    KR20010098751A|2001-11-08|A Sewing Method
    US2104724A|1938-01-11|Glove and method of making same from strip material
    同族专利:
    公开号 | 公开日
    EP0020676A1|1981-01-07|
    ATA906179A|1988-06-15|
    CS223976B2|1983-11-25|
    DE2953408C1|1993-05-06|
    SE8005866L|1980-08-21|
    RO81462B|1984-06-30|
    EP0020676B1|1984-04-18|
    NL186891B|1990-11-01|
    NL186891C|1991-04-02|
    GB2051558B|1983-05-18|
    WO1980001233A1|1980-06-26|
    SE446496B|1986-09-22|
    GB2051558A|1981-01-21|
    RO81462A|1984-05-12|
    US4375107A|1983-03-01|
    DE2953408D2|1982-02-11|
    JPS55501102A|1980-12-11|
    NL7920169A|1980-10-31|
    AT387309B|1989-01-10|
    引用文献:
    公开号 | 申请日 | 公开日 | 申请人 | 专利标题
    US1521152A|1921-07-02|1924-12-30|Cluett Peabody & Company Inc|Fold-over collar and art of making the same|
    FR560132A|1922-12-21|1923-09-28|Loncle Freres|Improvements in the making of collar collars|
    AT99100B|1924-05-10|1925-01-26|K Roubiczek & Co Fa|Turn-down or double collar.|
    US1851222A|1928-01-21|1932-03-29|Turpan Peter|Collar|
    US1787113A|1928-10-02|1930-12-30|Elsie C Larson|Collar and cuff|
    US1994600A|1932-03-19|1935-03-19|Louis H Weinstein|Collar|
    GB443870A|1934-06-13|1936-03-09|Paul Metzger Bauer|Improvements in or relating to washable articles of wearing apparel|
    GB443126A|1935-01-21|1936-02-21|Charles Adkin Roxby Thornberry|Improvements in the manufacture of collars for personal wear|
    US2152094A|1938-06-13|1939-03-28|Rubinstein Wilton|Collar|
    DE1610543C3|1951-01-28|1974-11-28|Nino Gmbh + Co, 4460 Nordhorn|
    FR1050613A|1952-02-07|1954-01-08|R Gravereaux Ets|Collars and cuffs improvements|
    GB757898A|1953-02-12|1956-09-26|James Victor Crowther|Improvements relating to collars and cuffs for shirts|
    GB767185A|1954-10-26|1957-01-30|R H & S Rogers Ltd|Improvements in or relating to shirt collars|
    GB772123A|1955-09-22|1957-04-10|Cluett Peabody & Co Inc|Collars for garments|
    FR1132222A|1955-10-11|1957-03-06|Cluett Peabody & Co Inc|Collar for garment or shirt and method of manufacture|
    FR1422283A|1964-11-10|1965-12-24|Faure Bertrand Ets|Perfected living vehicle|
    DE1956902U|1966-07-09|1967-03-16|Nino G M B H & Co|INSERT FOR COLLAR ETC.|
    GB1237196A|1967-12-15|1971-06-30|Bondina Limited|Folded linings or interlinings|
    JPS5153360Y2|1971-07-01|1976-12-20|
    JPS5215186Y2|1971-07-06|1977-04-05|
    JPS5120319A|1974-08-09|1976-02-18|Daihatsu Motor Co Ltd|KYANPINGUKAA|
    US4040125A|1976-05-20|1977-08-09|Blue Sidney D|Convertible shirt collar|
    GB1512859A|1976-11-04|1978-06-01|Bondina Ltd|Under-collar stiffeners made from non-woven fabrics|
    DE2944453C2|1979-11-03|1984-07-12|Wendler Einlagen Gmbh & Co Kg, 7410 Reutlingen|Garment collars and method of making them|GB2209924A|1987-09-24|1989-06-01|Slimma Menswear Limited|Collar and means for making|
    AT412727B|2003-12-03|2005-06-27|Boehler Edelstahl|CORROSION RESISTANT, AUSTENITIC STEEL ALLOY|
    ES2213495B1|2004-03-10|2005-06-16|Javier Lopez Fernandez|NECK SHIRTS.|
    DE602005022086D1|2005-11-29|2010-08-12|Arc Teryx Equipment Inc|Multilayer collar|
    FR2902980B1|2006-06-29|2008-10-03|Lainiere De Picardie Bc|ENTOILAGE COMPRISING ASSOCIATED BANDS ON A SUPPORT LAYER FOR FORMING FREE FOLDING BANDS|
    US8024817B2|2008-04-11|2011-09-27|Neil Pryde Limited|Wetsuit, neck opening for wetsuit and method of making same|
    US8161574B2|2008-05-16|2012-04-24|Nike, Inc.|Apparel with raised course crease|
    CN110122960A|2019-05-18|2019-08-16|鲁泰纺织股份有限公司|The auxiliary scale closed up for collar|
    法律状态:
    优先权:
    申请号 | 申请日 | 专利标题
    CH1313778A|CH635496A5|1978-12-22|1978-12-22|Collar for a garment|
    CH936879A|CH640709A5|1979-10-18|1979-10-18|Collar for a garment|
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