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    • 专利摘要:
    The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for topical application to the skin comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least an effective amount of at least one aqueous extract of rose fruits, in particular of the variety Evanrat or Rose Jardin de Granville® and its use in particular to promote and / or improve the supply of nutrients to the skin, strengthen the barrier function and densify the extracellular matrix, in particular for the zone of the eye contour.
    公开号:FR3080285A1
    申请号:FR1853508
    申请日:2018-04-20
    公开日:2019-10-25
    发明作者:Virginie Pecher；Jocelyne Franchi；Marion POUJOL
    申请人:LVMH Recherche GIE；
    IPC主号:
    专利说明:

    FIELD OF THE INVENTION
    The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising at least one aqueous extract of rose fruits, in particular of Jardin de Granville® rose, and their use in particular for promoting and / or improving the supply of nutrients to the skin, reinforcing the barrier function. and densify the extracellular matrix, in particular for the area around the eyes.
    STATE OF THE ART
    It is well known that the quality of nutrition is reflected in the health of the skin and that certain skin disorders are associated with deficiencies, in particular in certain micronutrients (Park K. Role of micronutrients in skin health and function. Biomol.Ther. 2015; 23; 207-217). The micro-nutritional balance of the skin can indeed be affected by external and / or internal factors, such as for example fatigue, stress, oxidizing effects, UV exposure, and / or cell senescence.
    We observe in particular in subjects sensitive to fatigue and stress:
    - a lower level of hydration (this difference increases with age);
    - a deficit in essential fatty acids (omega 3 and omega 6);
    - a deficit in long chain fatty acids making up ceramides (less good barrier function); and or
    - a lower content of squalene (alteration of the protective hydrolipid film of the skin surface).
    The eye area in particular, which is the most mobile area of the face, requires twice as much energy from the cells. And the Applicant has identified that the fatigue of this active and fragile area leads to a micro-nutritional imbalance contributing to the loss of radiance and the presence of bags and dark circles under the eyes.
    These observations highlight imbalances, particularly concerning micronutrients.
    It is known that these nutrients, or nutritional constituents, participate at the cutaneous level in particular in the establishment of an environment favorable to the reconstruction of the barrier function, to the hydration of the skin and therefore, ultimately, to a rejuvenated skin. and less vulnerable to premature aging.
    Micronutrients are essential for the development and formation of the skin (organ in constant evolution), the physiological renewal of the epidermis and the adaptation of the skin to its environment (role of protective envelope). They each have a specific role, complementary functions that cover the many facets of skin metabolism (Park K. Rôle of micronutrients in skin health and function. Biomol.Ther. 2015, 23: 207-217; Polefka T. Interaction of oreai salts with the skin: a literature survey. Int J. Cosmetic. Sci. 2012, 34: 416-423; Boelsma E. Nutritiaonal skin care: health effects of micronutrients and fatty acids. Am. J. Clin. Nutr. 2001, 73: 853-864; Winkler P. Minerais and the skin in Nutrition and the skin-Lessons for anti-aging, beauty and healthy skin. 2011, Apostolos Papas Editor; Chap 7: 91-109), and mainly:
    - participate in antioxidant protection (vitamins A, E, vitamin C, zinc, selenium);
    - are essential for the metabolism of lipids, carbohydrates or proteins (vitamins B3, B5, vitamin C for the synthesis of collagen), for the production of energy (vitamin B2, magnesium);
    - contribute to the proper functioning of enzymes, by providing the metal ions necessary for their activity (copper, manganese, selenium, zinc, iron);
    - regulate epidermal differentiation (calcium);
    - are involved in the maintenance of the membrane potential, in the balance of fluids, and have a role in the skin in hydration (potassium and sodium);
    - participate in the strengthening of the hydrolipidic film which helps the skin to retain its elasticity and flexibility (Essential Fatty Acids).
    The use of vitamins (A, E, C) and / or essential fatty acids is known in the formulation of cosmetic compositions intended for the skin, in particular for their protective and / or nutritional effect, but there remains the need for new compounds making it possible to maintain and / or promote the nutritional balance of the skin and therefore stimulate hydration, the skin barrier, and / or regeneration of the skin, in particular for the area around the eyes.
    The eye area has specific features compared to other areas of the face: thinness of the skin to facilitate mobility of this area (lower number of basal and spiny layers compared to the skin of the rest of the face);
    laxity (decrease in elasticity, elastic fibers, collagens) even greater in elderly, dry or photo-exposed skin;
    dark circles (coloration of the lower eyelid); and puffiness (fluid in the eyelids, loss of elasticity ...) increased with age.
    In addition, this area is rich in muscles, 22 in total, 14 of which activate approximately every 10 seconds to ensure permanent hydration to the cornea. These perpetual movements deteriorate more quickly the fibers which become less firm.
    We are therefore looking for new compounds that can provide the nutrients that maintain hydration and are capable of stimulating the metabolism of the skin, in particular the area around the eyes.
    Unexpectedly, the Applicant has demonstrated the in vitro effect of an aqueous extract of rose fruits, in particular of Jardin de Granville® rose, on the synthesis of ATP participating in the energy of skin cells. , and on the stimulation of the expression of several genes participating in the reinforcement of the barrier function and the densification of the extracellular matrix.
    SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
    A first object of the invention relates to a cosmetic composition for topical application to the skin comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least an effective amount of at least one aqueous extract of rose fruits, in particular of the Evanrat or rose variety Garden of Granville®.
    Another object of the invention relates to a cosmetic process intended to promote and / or improve the supply of nutrients to the skin, promote and / or improve cohesion and / or epidermal differentiation, promote and / or improve the barrier function, densify the extracellular matrix and / or reduce its degradation, improve the elasticity and / or firmness of the skin, in particular around the eyes, prevent and / or reduce dark circles and / or puffiness around the eyes, improve radiance and / or homogeneity of the skin, in particular around the eyes, promoting and / or improving hydration, and / or preventing and / or reducing the formation of wrinkles and / or fine lines, including application to the skin , in particular of the face and / or the neck and preferably around the eyes, of a cosmetic composition as defined according to the invention.
    According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the invention relates to a cosmetic process intended to prevent and / or reduce dark circles and / or puffiness around the eyes, and / or improve the radiance and / or the uniformity of the skin in particular of the eye area, comprising the application to the eye area, of a cosmetic composition as defined according to the invention.
    The invention also relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of at least one effective amount of at least one aqueous extract of rose fruits according to the invention, as an agent intended to promote and / or improve the supply of nutrients to the skin, promoting and / or improving cohesion and / or epidermal differentiation, promoting and / or improving the barrier function, densifying the extracellular matrix and / or reducing its degradation, improving the elasticity and / or firmness of the skin by particular around the eyes, prevent and / or reduce dark circles and / or puffiness around the eyes, improve the radiance and / or consistency of the skin, in particular around the eyes, promote and / or improve hydration, and / or prevent and / or reduce the formation of wrinkles and / or fine lines.
    According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the invention relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of at least one effective amount of at least one aqueous extract of rose fruits according to the invention, as an agent intended to prevent and / or reduce dark circles and / or bags around the eyes, and / or improve the radiance and / or uniformity of the skin, in particular around the eyes.
    By “promoting and / or improving the supply of nutrients to the skin”, it is intended to promote the supply of micronutrients present in the rose fruit extract of the invention, such as potassium and calcium (micronutrients) and phyto- sugars such as fructose and glucose (macronutrients). This energy supply (ATP synthesis) to skin cells will help promote the metabolism of skin cells.
    By “densifying the extracellular matrix and / or reducing its degradation”, it is intended to promote and / or stimulate the expression of proteins of the extracellular matrix (ex: fibrous proteins of collagen I and III type and elastin) playing an essential role in architecture and regulation of cell differentiation and proliferation.
    By “promoting the radiance and / or homogeneity of the skin, in particular around the eyes”, is meant in particular improving the microcirculation and / or decreasing the vascular permeability of the skin for better uniformity of the complexion and a reduction in imperfections skin color (e.g. dark circles around the eyes).
    DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
    The invention therefore relates to a cosmetic composition for topical application to the skin comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least an effective amount of at least one aqueous extract of rose fruits, in particular of the Evanrat or Rose Jardin variety. Granville®.
    The aqueous extract of rose fruits is present in the cosmetic composition of the invention in an amount effective to obtain the desired effect.
    In particular, it is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 95%, in particular from 0.5% to 80% by weight of raw material relative to the total weight of the composition. According to a first embodiment, it is present in a content ranging from 50% to 95%, in particular from 60% to 90% by weight of raw material relative to the total weight of the composition. According to another particular embodiment, it is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 20%, preferably from 0.5% to 10%, and more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight of raw material relative to the total weight of the composition. Illustrative examples are given below.
    Plant material
    The extracts of the invention are aqueous extracts of rose fruits. According to the invention, one will speak indifferently of an extract of rose, an extract of rosebush or an extract in particular of the variety Evanrat or rose Garden of Granville®.
    Those skilled in the art will preferably choose selected roses whose properties are preserved by an environment and an organic farming method. According to a particular and preferred mode, an aqueous extract of rose fruits of the Evanrat or rose variety ‘Jardin de Granville®’ will be used.
    The 'Jardin de Granville®' rose or rose is a hybrid variety offered exclusively by "Roses André André Eve SAS" and protected by Plant Breeders' Certificate under the number 20110345 with the name Rosa L for the species and the name with the variety EVANRAT. This bush rose belongs to the group of modern hybrids, which, from May to October, is permanently covered with roses, thus showing an excellent uplifting character.
    Thus, according to a particular and preferred embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous extract of rose fruits of the Evanrat or Jardin de Granville® variety.
    Rose fruits are distinct from rosehip fruits called rose hips.
    The rose fruits according to the invention are obtained by letting the flower wilt on the rose bush. There are three types of rose fruit according to their maturity:
    "green" fruits harvested in October and from a second flowering in September;
    ‘intermediate’ fruits harvested in October and from a second flowering in August; and the ‘ripe’ fruits (orange-red color) harvested in October and from a first flowering in June.
    In the context of the invention, only "intermediate" fruits and "ripe" fruits which contain the desired nutrients will be used, unlike "green" fruits. The ‘intermediate’ and ‘ripe’ fruits are named in the rest of the description ‘rose fruits’.
    Said rose fruits are generally harvested in October and immediately stored at -20 ° C.
    You can use the whole fruit including the cap, the hair and the pulp, or the pulp alone.
    These rose fruits ('intermediate' and 'ripe') include monosaccharide sugars (fructose, glucose, sucrose), organic acids (citric acid, malic acid), polyphenols (catechin), vitamin C, amino acids (mainly aspartic acid and glutamic acid), minerals (ash, potassium, calcium), and carotenoids.
    In particular, calcium improves epidermal differentiation and strengthens the structure of the skin, while potassium boosts skin hydration and boosts energy absorption. Phytosugars (fructose, sucrose, sucrose) are intended to fill the skin cells with energy.
    The rose fruits of the invention can be harvested and directly frozen; we will speak of ‘wet’ or ‘fresh’ frozen fruit. According to another embodiment, the rose fruits of the invention can be harvested and dried (freeze-dried) before being frozen; we’ll talk about frozen ’freeze-dried fruit.
    According to a particular and preferred mode, "wet" or "fresh" frozen fruit will be used for extraction.
    The aqueous extract of rose fruits according to the invention is an extract concentrated in polar natural compounds. The aqueous extract of rose fruits according to the invention is distinct from rose water. This is a rose fruit extract using the extraction of natural rose fruit compounds in the presence of aqueous (polar) solvents with or without the addition of a pH modifier, and an implementation in the formulation, in the form of an aqueous solution or concentrate, the solvent for the concentrate may be the extraction solvent and / or an additional solvent.
    According to a particular embodiment, the aqueous extract of rose fruits according to the invention also comprises in small proportion an extract of rose flowers representing from 0.01 to 1%, preferably from 0.01 to 0.1% of the total aqueous extract of rose according to the invention. In this embodiment, the original plant material (10% total load of plant material) comprises rose fruits and rose flowers in a proportion of 0.01% flowers for 9.99% of fruits to 1% flowers for 9% fruit.
    The inventors have in fact demonstrated that the aqueous extracts of rose fruits according to the invention comprise micronutrients and natural compounds of interest for the skin.
    As polar natural compounds of interest present in the aqueous extract of rose fruits according to the invention, there may be mentioned in particular:
    sugars (glucose, fructose, possibly sucrose) and vitamin C, at the heart of the skin's energy processes, organic acids (citric acid, malic acid), polyphenols (catechin), carrying anti-radical activities, minerals, allies of skin protection and repair systems, and amino acids, source of vitality and constituents of proteins for the cell.
    The aqueous extract of rose fruits according to the invention can be obtained by various methods known to those skilled in the art and in particular those described below.
    According to a particular and preferred embodiment, fruit of the Evanrat variety, preferably the Rose de Granville® rose, preferably fresh fruit, will be used as plant material in the extraction methods adapted to the invention described below. intermediate and ripe) directly frozen at -20 ° C.
    Aqueous extract of rose fruits
    We will talk indifferently of aqueous extract or polar extract or hydrophilic extract of rose in the description. The aqueous extract of rose fruits is advantageously obtained by means of a cosmetically acceptable polar solvent.
    By "aqueous rose extract" according to the invention, it is understood in particular that the polar (hydrophilic) compounds of the rose fruits have dissolved and / or have been extracted in a polar solvent.
    Advantageously, the extract of the invention is obtained by 'Eco extraction' based on the discovery and the design of extraction processes making it possible to reduce energy consumption, but also the use of alternative solvents and renewable plant resources, all by guaranteeing a safe and quality product / extract. Eco extraction favors 6 main principles (Farid Chemat, Dunod, 2010, Eco-Extraction of plants):
    - Foster innovation through varietal selection and the use of renewable plant resources,
    - Favor alternative solvents called green solvents and mainly those from agro-resources,
    - Reduce energy consumption by using innovative technologies and promote energy recovery,
    - Promote the creation of co-products instead of waste to integrate the path of bio or agro-refinery,
    - Reduce unit operations thanks to technological innovation and promote safe, robust and controlled processes, and
    - Favor an undenatured, biodegradable product, free of contaminants and above all carrying "eco-Extract" values. We will therefore advantageously use as polar green solvent: water.
    Prior to the extraction stage itself, the fruits may have been dried and / or crushed. According to another embodiment, the fruits are used wet and then crushed.
    According to a particular mode, the fruits are crushed before extraction, for example by means of a mortar, a cryogenic grinding, a mixer, a traditional grinder or a centrifuge according to the methods known to those skilled in the art. job.
    The extract can be prepared by various extraction methods known to a person skilled in the art, using stages of grinding the plant material, dispersion of the ground material in a polar solvent, separation of the soluble and insoluble phases by filtration, concentration and possible re-solution.
    According to the present invention, the expression “polar solvent” means that the solvent has a value of Polarity index or total Hildebrand solubility parameter greater than or equal to
    10. The polarity index is a quantity calculated on the basis of thermodynamic quantities (of solubility and change of state) which highlights the more or less polar character of a molecule. As examples, the following solvents have a total Hildebrand solubility parameter of:
    7.3 for hexane (non-polar solvent),
    11.6 for butylene glycol, 12.7 for ethanol and 16.5 for glycerol (polar solvents),
    23.4 for water H 2 O (polar solvent).
    The preferred polar solvents are those consisting of a compound comprising at least one polar covalent bond of O-H type. As a particularly preferred polar solvent, a solvent or a mixture of solvents chosen is chosen from water, alcohols such as ethanol, glycols, such as ethylene glycol, glycerol, butylene. glycol and propylene glycol, and mixtures thereof. Advantageously, water, ethanol or their mixture will be used. Advantageously, water will be used as extraction solvent (eco extraction).
    In particular, the plant material is extracted using a solvent consisting of water, with or without a pH modifier (eg organic acid, citric acid, hydrochloric acid), without any other additional solvent, in a ratio of 10 g of plant material per 100g of water (we will speak of 10% load of plant material). The load of plant material can range from 5 to 30%, preferably 10%.
    The extraction can be carried out hot by reflux or else by maceration at room temperature.
    The extraction can be done using well known physicochemical techniques such as in particular ultrasound, microwave, extrusion, pulsed electric field, and / or cryoextraction.
    In the case of an ultrasonic extraction, the duration of the extraction may range in particular from 2 to 10 minutes, in particular 5 minutes.
    In the case of an extraction using another technology among those mentioned above, the duration may generally range from 1 hour to 10 hours, in particular 2 to 6 hours, or even 4 hours, in particular to 60 ° C.
    The extraction process advantageously comprises a filtration step aimed at separating the liquid phase from the spent plant material. A person skilled in the art will choose suitable filtration sieves, in particular with filtration diameters of 0.1 μm to 0.5 μm, in particular from 0.2 to 0.3 μm.
    We can reproduce the extraction cycle then filtration, several times in order to exhaust the plant material of substances having an affinity for the extraction solvent
    The extraction process can also be supplemented by a step of partial or total removal of the extraction solvents.
    The extract can advantageously be concentrated by eliminating part of the solvent or of the mixture of extraction solvent.
    It is thus possible to obtain an aqueous concentrate devoid of a significant amount of organic solvents or alternatively, by eliminating all the extraction solvent, to obtain a dry residue.
    Alternatively, the product of the extraction step can be freeze-dried or atomized to take the form of a powder.
    According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the aqueous extract of rose fruits according to the invention is obtained according to a process making it possible to increase the extraction yield and to enrich the extract with water-soluble products usually contained in the plant juices, in particular sugars, mineral salts, proteins, beneficial for micro-nutrition of the skin.
    Thus, according to a particular and preferred embodiment of the invention, the aqueous extract of rose fruits is obtained according to the extraction process comprising the following steps:
    a) harvesting fresh intermediate and / or ripe fruit, possibly stored at -20 ° C,
    b) crushing fruit
    c) mixture of 5 to 30%, in particular 10% of plant material in preferably acidified water (eg citric acid) at a temperature ranging in particular from 10 to 60 ° C, in particular 30 ° C
    d) gradual rise in temperature of the mixture, in particular from 30 to 100 ° C, in particular up to 50 to 70 ° C, or even up to 60 ° C
    e) extraction, possibly with stirring,
    f) liquid / solid separation,
    g) optionally adding preservatives,
    h) filtration, in particular up to 0.22pm,
    i) optionally packaging, if necessary under nitrogen,
    j) optionally storage at + 4 ° C.
    As preservatives in step g), there may be mentioned in particular sodium benzoate, potassium sorbate, phenoxyethanol and their mixtures.
    According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the aqueous extract of rose fruits according to the invention is an aqueous extract of fruits of the Evanrat or Rose Jardin de Granville® variety obtained according to the extraction process described above, otherwise known as' Aqueous extract of rose fruits' and comprises from 1 to 2% by weight of dry matter (active material) of rose fruit extract, 97.5% to 98.5% of water.
    According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the aqueous extract of rose fruits according to the invention is an aqueous extract of fruits of the Evanrat or Rose Jardin de Granville® variety obtained according to the extraction process described above, otherwise known as' Extract aqueous of rose fruits' in the illustrative examples described below, and comprises from 1 to 2% by weight of dry matter (active material) of rose fruit extract, 97.5% to 98.5% of water, 0.5% citric acid, and qs of preservatives.
    According to a particular mode, the aqueous extract of rose fruits comprises from 1 to 2% by weight of dry matter (active material) of extract of rose fruits and rose flowers (in a mass ratio 0.01 flowers for 9.99 fruits), 97.5% to 98.5% water, 0.5% citric acid, and a few preservatives.
    According to a particular and preferred embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the aqueous extract of rose fruits comprises an extract of rose fruits in a polar solvent, in particular in a weight ratio of 10: 90 (plant extract: polar solvent) The aqueous extract of pink fruits according to the invention, in particular obtained according to the process described above, advantageously comprises micronutrients (calcium, potassium) and macro-nutrients such as phytosugars (glucose and fructose, and possibly sacharrosis).
    According to a particular and preferred mode, the aqueous extract of pink fruits according to the invention in particular of the variety Evanrat or pink Jardin de Granville®, comprises a total mineral content ranging from 300 to 1000 ppm, in particular from 400 to 800 ppm and comprising in particular calcium and potassium.
    The Applicant has shown that the mineral composition (calcium + potassium) of the aqueous extract of rose fruits according to the invention was much greater than that of an aqueous extract of rose flowers 'Cryoextract' described below (610 ppm). vs 220 ppm).
    According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the aqueous extract of pink fruits according to the invention, in particular of the Evanrat or pink Jardin de Granville® variety, comprises a total sugar content ranging from 1 to 3%, and in particular comprising fructose and glucose and possibly sucrose.
    The Applicant has also shown that the aqueous extract of rose fruits according to the invention rich in phytosugars, applied at 0.3% on keratinocytes in culture, made it possible to obtain an increase in ATP synthesis by + 21%.
    The content of aqueous extract of rose fruits in the final cosmetic composition will generally range from 0.1% to 95%, in particular from 0.5% to 80% by weight of raw material relative to the total weight of the composition. According to a first embodiment, it is present in a content ranging from 50% to 95%, in particular from 60% to 90% by weight of raw material relative to the total weight of the composition. According to another particular embodiment, it is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 20%, preferably from 0.5% to 10%, and more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight of raw material relative to the total weight of the composition. .
    For a raw material comprising 1% by weight of dry extract of rose fruits, this is equivalent to 0.001% to 0.02% by weight, in particular from 0.005% to 0.01%, and according to a particular mode of 0.01 % to 0.05% by weight of dry matter (active) relative to the total weight of the composition.
    galenic
    The cosmetic composition of the invention can be in any dosage form suitable for topical application to the skin, for example a serum, an oil-in-water emulsion, a water-in-oil emulsion, a multiple emulsion, or an aqueous gel. .
    The composition is preferably intended to be applied to the face and is for example in the form of a lotion, a care cream, a serum, a fluid for the face, a care gel. for the face and in particular the eye area. According to a particular mode, the composition is intended to be applied to the eye contour and is in the form of a serum, a cream or an eye contour gel, preferably an aqueous contour gel eyes.
    According to a particular mode, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is in the form of an aqueous gel for the eye area. This galenic in gel form is particularly suitable for the eye area, since it provides a fresh effect favorable to the decongestion of bags and dark circles, a fresh effect which can be amplified by contact with the applicator if the composition of the The invention is applied to the skin with an applicator as described below.
    The aqueous phase generally represents from 1 to 99% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.
    Aqueous phase
    The aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention comprises water and optionally a water-soluble solvent.
    The term "water-soluble solvent" according to the invention means a compound that is liquid at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25 ° C and atmospheric pressure). We can cite in particular:
    lower C ^ Cs mono-alcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol and mixtures thereof;
    C 2 -C 8 glycols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and mixtures thereof;
    C 2 -C 32 polyols such as polyglycerols, polyethylene glycols, and their mixtures, and their mixtures.
    It can also include hydrophilic gelling agents, antioxidants, preservatives and mixtures thereof.
    As hydrophilic gelling agents, mention may in particular be made of acrylic acid polymers such as those of INCI Carbomer name or of Carbopol® commercial reference, copolymers of acrylic and methacrylic acids, carboxyvinyl polymers, associative thickeners of acrylic type or polyurethane, polysaccharide gelling agents such as alginates, natural or modified gums such as xanthan gums, carrageenan gums, agar gums, guar gums, gellan gums, chitosans, mannans, pullulans, cellulose derivatives, gelatin, pectins, mineral gelling agents such as bentones or modified silicas, and mixtures thereof.
    By natural or modified gum is meant an optionally modified polysaccharide which hydrates in an aqueous medium to form a viscous solution or a dispersion. Natural gums include algae extracts, plant exudates and gums extracted from plant seeds or roots and those obtained by microbiological fermentation. Modified or semi-synthetic gums include derivatives of cellulose and starch and, in general, derivatives of all natural gums.
    According to a particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the invention comprises an aqueous gelled phase, in particular by the presence of at least one acrylic polymer, in particular a polymer of acrylic acid or copolymer of acrylic and methacrylic acid.
    Examples of acrylic polymers that may be mentioned include:
    the polymer with the INCI name ‘carboxyvinylpolymer’ sold under the name Carbopol 980;
    the polymer of INCI name ‘hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer’ sold under the name ‘Sepinov ™ EMT 10’ by the company SEPPIC;
    the INCI name polymer ‘sodium acrylate copolymer and lecithin’ sold under the name Lecigel ™ by the company Lucas Meyer Cosmetics, and mixtures thereof.
    According to a particular and preferred embodiment, use will be made of a copolymer of acrylic and methacrylic acid, in particular the polymer with the name INCI ‘sodium acrylate copolymer and lecithin’ sold under the name Lecigel ™ by the company Lucas Meyer Cosmetics,
    According to another particular mode, the polymer with the name INCI ‘hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer’ sold under the name ‘Sepinov ™ EMT 10’ by the company SEPPIC will be used.
    The content of hydrophilic gelling agent (s) in the cosmetic composition of the invention will generally range from 0.5 to 5%, in particular from 0.7 to 4%, preferably from 0.9 to 3% and preferably still from 1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.
    Oily or oily phase
    The cosmetic composition of the invention may also comprise an oily phase (solid fatty substances) or an oily phase.
    The term “oily phase” is understood to mean an oil or a mixture of oils which are miscible with one another. By “oil” is meant, within the meaning of the invention, a fatty substance, not soluble in water, liquid at 25 ° C. and 0.1 MPa, and preferably non-volatile having a vapor pressure, at 25 ° C and 0.1 MPa, non-zero less than 2.6 Pa, preferably less than 0.13 Pa.
    An oily phase according to the invention can comprise hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, fluorinated or not, and mixtures thereof.
    These oils can be volatile or non-volatile, vegetable, mineral or synthetic.
    By "hydrocarbon oil" is meant according to the invention an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms.
    By "silicone oil" is meant according to the invention an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.
    By "fluorinated oil" is meant according to the invention an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.
    As non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, mention may in particular be made of hydrocarbon oils, hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, C 10 synthetic ethers
    C 40 , C 10 -C 40 synthetic esters, C 12 -C 2 6 fatty alcohols, C 12 -C 22 higher fatty acids, and mixtures thereof.
    As non-volatile silicone oils, mention may in particular be made of phenylated silicone oils, non-phenylated silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.
    The oils may be present in the composition of the invention in a content ranging from 0.01 to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According to a particular embodiment, the oils will be present in a content less than or equal to 10%, in particular less than or equal to 5%, or even less than or equal to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According to a particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the invention does not include oils, apart from any lipophilic compounds provided by the ingredients of the composition such as lecithin (phospholipid) provided by the gelling agent Lecigel ™.
    The fatty or oily phase can also include lipophilic gelling agents, film-forming polymers, surfactants, antioxidants and mixtures thereof.
    According to a particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the invention is in the form of an aqueous gel comprising an aqueous phase, at least one hydrophilic gelling agent chosen from polymers of acrylic acids, polysaccharides and their mixtures.
    According to a particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition is in the form of an aqueous gel intended in particular for the eye area, comprising at least:
    an aqueous extract of rose fruits according to the invention, in particular an aqueous extract of fruits of the Evanrat or Rose Jardin de Granville® variety as described above, in particular in a content ranging from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the weight total composition;
    an aqueous phase representing from 80% to 99% by weight of the composition and comprising at least one hydrophilic gelling agent, chosen in particular from acrylic acid polymers, polysaccharides, and their mixtures, and an oily phase representing less than 2% by weight of the composition.
    According to one particular mode, the cosmetic composition of the invention does not include any rose extract other than rose extracts of the Evanrat or Rose Jardin de Granville® variety.
    According to a particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the invention comprises at least one other rose extract of the Evanrat or Rose Jardin de Granville® variety, chosen from an aqueous extract of rose flowers, an oily extract of rose flowers, and their mixture, and preferably:
    an aqueous extract of rose flowers of the Evanrat or Rose Jardin de Granville® variety obtained according to the cryo-extraction process described in application EP0425391; in particular an extract comprising 0.5% of dry matter in 99.5% of a mixture of water / glycerol (called 'Cryo-extract' in the illustrative examples) and an oily extract of rose flowers of the Evanrat or Rose Jardin variety Granville® obtained according to the dynamic swelling process as described in the application described in application WO2010 / 112760; in particular an extract comprising from 0.5% to 1.5% of dry matter in 98.5-99.5% of organic deodorized oleic sunflower oil (named "Satin oil" in the following illustrative examples).
    The addition of these aqueous and oily extracts of rose flowers, in particular of the Evanrat or Rose Jardin de Granville® variety, provides additional micronutrients, in particular essential fatty acids (omega 3, 6 and 9) provided by the extract. oily rose flowers and a supply of minerals (manganese, magnesium, copper, zinc ...) provided by the aqueous extract of rose flowers.
    The Applicant has also shown in a previous study that said aqueous extracts of rose flowers and oily extract of rose flowers stimulate the expression of epidermal clock genes, and the expression of target epidermal clock genes, involved in particular in lipid metabolism, the skin barrier, cell differentiation, cell communication and / or cell cohesion.
    In particular, the aqueous extract of rose flowers stimulates the expression of the clock genes Cryptochrome Circadian Clock 2 CRY2, Period 1 PERI and Period 3 PER3 and the oily extract of rose flowers stimulates the expression of the clock gene Period 2 PER2 .
    The aqueous extract of rose flowers stimulates the expression of the Kératin 10 KRT10 and Desmoglein 1 DSG1 genes and the oily extract of rose flowers stimulates the expression of the Ceramide synthase 3 CERS3, Calmodulin 3 CALM3, Keratin 1 KRT1 genes, Gap-junction alpha1 protein GJA1 / Connexin 43 Cx43 and Desmocollin 3 DSC3.
    The use of these extracts of rose flowers therefore makes it possible to obtain effects complementary to those linked to the aqueous extract of rose fruits according to the invention.
    The composition may also comprise a rose fragrance.
    Additional ingredients
    The composition of the invention can also comprise any additive usually used in cosmetics such as UV filters, antioxidants, perfumes, cosmetic active agents, such as, for example, emollients, moisturizers, vitamins, anti-aging agents, lightening agents, fillers, nacres and their mixtures.
    As cosmetic active agents, it can include agents promoting microcirculation intended to reduce bags under the eyes, such as extracts of Centella asiatica, extract of horse chestnut (Aesculus hippocastanum), etc.
    It can also include fillers and / or nacres, in particular white nacres, intended to mask color imperfections (dark circles) and illuminate the eyes.
    Applicator
    The cosmetic composition according to the invention is advantageously applied to the eye area. The application can be made with the finger or advantageously using an applicator, which will allow a more precise application on the eye contour and / or improved efficacy in connection with better penetration of the cosmetic active agents and / or a complementary mechanical action linked to the gesture of the applicator.
    The applicator may include a massage head consisting of one or more identical balls, having a rotation of 180 to 360 °, preferably 360 °. The massage surface is increased compared to a finger application, the drainage of the pockets is more efficient than with a single-ball roll-on. Associated with a massage technique in a back and forth movement going from the temple to the corner of the eye, this applicator reactivates microcirculation and cellular oxygenation and amplifies the assimilation of micronutrients from the cosmetic composition of the invention.
    Cosmetic process
    The invention also relates to a cosmetic process intended to promote and / or improve the supply of nutrients to the skin, promote and / or improve cohesion and / or epidermal differentiation, promote and / or improve the barrier function, densify the matrix. extracellular and / or reduce its degradation, improve the elasticity and / or firmness of the skin, in particular around the eyes, prevent and / or reduce dark circles and / or puffiness around the eyes, improve radiance and / or the homogeneity of the skin, in particular around the eyes, promoting and / or improving hydration, and / or preventing and / or reducing the formation of wrinkles and / or fine lines, including application to the skin, in particular of the face and / or neck and preferably around the eyes, of a cosmetic composition as defined according to the invention comprising at least one aqueous extract of rose fruits according to the invention, in particular of the vari Evanrat side or rose garden Granville®.
    The composition can be applied to the body, the face and / or the neck. According to a particular mode, the composition is applied to the face and / or the neck. According to a particular and preferred mode, the composition is applied to the eye area.
    According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a cosmetic process intended to densify the extracellular matrix and / or reduce its degradation comprising the application to the eye area, of a cosmetic composition as defined above according to the invention.
    According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a cosmetic process intended to improve the elasticity and / or the firmness of the skin comprising the application to the eye area, of a cosmetic composition as defined above according to the invention.
    According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the invention relates to a cosmetic process intended to improve the radiance and / or the color homogeneity of the eye area comprising the application to the eye area, of a cosmetic composition as defined previously according to the invention.
    According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the invention relates to a cosmetic process intended to prevent and / or reduce dark circles and / or bags around the eyes, comprising the application to the eye area, of a cosmetic composition as defined. previously according to the invention.
    Preferably, in the context of these cosmetic processes, a cosmetic composition comprising an aqueous extract of rose fruits according to the invention will be used, alone or in combination with other extracts of rose flowers of the Evanrat or Jardin de Granville variety. ® as described above.
    Cosmetic uses
    The invention also relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of at least an effective amount of at least one aqueous extract of rose fruits according to the invention, in particular of the variety Evanrat or rose Jardin de Granville®, as agent intended to promote and / or improve cohesion and / or epidermal differentiation, promote and / or improve the barrier function, densify the extracellular matrix and / or reduce its degradation, improve the elasticity and / or firmness of the skin in particular around the eyes, prevent and / or reduce dark circles and / or puffiness around the eyes, improve the radiance and / or consistency of the skin, especially around the eyes, promote and / or improve hydration , and / or prevent and / or reduce the formation of wrinkles and / or fine lines.
    The aqueous extract of rose fruits used according to the invention is as described above.
    Preferably, an aqueous extract of rose fruits of the Evanrat or Rose Jardin de Granville® variety obtained using the cryogenic and hot extraction process of fresh Jardin de Granville rose fruits will be used; in particular an extract comprising 1% of dry matter in 97.5% of water, 0.5% of citric acid and qs preservatives (called "aqueous extract of rose fruits" in the illustrative examples).
    The invention will now be illustrated in the following nonlimiting examples.
    EXAMPLES
    Material and methods
    The plant material used to obtain the aqueous extracts of rose illustrated in these examples is rose fruits of the Evanrat variety, in particular Rose de Jardin de Granville® fruits, available from nurserymen.
    Aqueous extract of rose fruits according to the invention
    Rose fruit of the Evanrat variety is used as plant material, in particular Rose de Granville® rose fruits available from nurserymen.
    The aqueous extract of rose fruits is obtained according to the cryogenic and hot extraction (60 ° C) process in water described above. The aqueous extract of rose fruits is obtained comprising 2% by weight of dry matter (active ingredient), 97.5% by weight of water, 0.5% of citric acid and preservatives qs100%.
    Other rose extracts, in particular of the Evanrat variety, preferably the Garden rose
    Granville® can be used in combination with the aqueous extract of rose fruits according to the invention to provide additional effects:
    • Aqueous extract of rose flowers (‘Cryo-extract’)
    Rose flowers (petals) of the Evanrat variety are used as plant material, in particular Jardin de Granville® rose flowers available from nurserymen.
    The aqueous extract of rose flower is obtained according to the cryo-extraction process described above, in particular according to the process described in patent application EP0425391. We obtain a Cryoextract comprising 0.5% by weight of dry matter (active ingredient), 49-50% by weight of water, 49% by weight of glycerol and qsp100% preservatives. The INCI name for this aqueous rose extract is Water, Glycerin, Rose Extract or Rosa Hybrid Flower Extract, Water, Glycerin.
    • Oily extract of rose flowers (‘Satin Oil’)
    Rose flowers (petals) of the Evanrat variety are used as plant material, in particular Jardin de Granville® rose flowers available from nurserymen.
    The oily extract of rose flower is obtained according to the dynamic swelling process described above, in particular according to the process described in patent application WO2010 / 112760. An oily Satin Oil extract is obtained comprising 0.5-1.5% by weight of dry rose matter (active material), and 98.5-99.5% by weight of deodorized organic oleic sunflower oil.
    The INCI name for this oily rose extract is Rose extract and Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil or Rosa Hybrid Flower Extract, Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil.
    We studied the impact of the aqueous extract of rose fruits on cellular energy (ATP synthesis), the expression of genes involved in epidermal cohesion and differentiation (barrier function), the densification of the extracellular matrix. , and cell permeability.
    Example 1 Effect of the Aqueous Rose Fruit Extract on the Synthesis of ATP
    The effect of the aqueous extract of rose fruits on the ATP synthesis of normal human keratinocytes (KHN) in culture was tested.
    KHNs were treated for 24 hours with:
    Aqueous extract of rose fruits: 0.3%
    Positive control: Early Boost® from CODIF as an energizer (extract of Jania rubens rich in taurine combined with an oligofurcellaran): 0.15%
    After 2 hours of treatment, the production level of ATP is detected and measured by bioluminescence using the kit from the company Biovision marketed under the name ApoSENSOR ™ ATP Cell Viability Bioluminescence Assay Kit, according to the protocol and recommendations of the provider.
    This test uses luciferase to catalyze the formation of light from ATP and luciferin according to the following reaction:
    ATP + luciferin + 02 Oxyluciferin + AMP + PPÎ + Co2 + light.
    The light produced is measured using a luminometer (Omega, BMG) and is proportional to the amount of ATP synthesized.
    A standard curve of 0.001 pg / mL to 1000pg / mL is defined for the concentration of intracellular ATP.
    After 2 hours of treatment, it is observed that the aqueous extract of rose fruits at 0.3% significantly increases the synthesis of ATP (+ 21%). The positive control gives the expected result (+ 32%) and validates the experience.
    Example 2 Effect of the aqueous extract of rose fruits on the reinforcement of the barrier function (differentiation and epidermal cohesion)
    Normal human keratinocytes (KHN) are cultured and then treated with the aqueous extract of Rose fruits described in the Materials and Methods paragraph.
    After treatment of the KHNs, a study by Taqman Low Density Array (TLDA) on the genes studied is carried out from the cDNAs obtained after reverse transcription of the total RNAs extracted.
    The aqueous extract of rose is tested at 0.15% and 0.31% by weight of raw material (excipient water).
    Culture of KHN
    Normal human keratinocytes come from a skin sample from plastic surgery. The cells are cultured the complete Epilife medium at P5 with a seeding density of 50,000 cells per well, in 12-well plates. At sub-confluence, the cells are treated for 24 hours with the doses of rose extracts described above.
    TLDA technology (TaqMan Low Density Array) • Obtaining total RNA
    The cell culture medium is eliminated, and 250 μL of RLT lysis buffer (supplied in the Nucleospin RNA trace kit, Macherey-Nagel) are added. The cells are scraped using a Cell Scraper, then the cell lysate is recovered in a 1.2 mL deepwell (supplied_in the Nucleospin RNA kit). Total RNAs are extracted according to defined protocols.
    The total RNA solutions obtained are assayed, and their quality verified, using a microplate reader, spectrostarNANO (BMG Labtech) coupled to MicrolabSTAR. This device is connected to the computer controlling the Robotics platform and has specific software for analyzing the results (MARS software). The technique requires a 384-well micro-plate (LoBase), a positive control (RNA 250, AM7155, Thermofisher) to validate the pipetting performed by the robot as well as the values generated by the spectrostarNANO reader.
    • Synthesis of complementary DNAs
    The reverse transcription kit (RT) used is the High Capacity Reverse Transcription Kit (Thermo Fisher). It was used according to the protocol provided. 500 ng of total RNA are diluted in water for a final volume of 25 pL. They are then incubated for 10 minutes at 25 ° C and then 2 hours at 37 ° C in the presence of 25 μL of reaction mixture of High Capacity Reverse Transcription Kit 2X previously prepared as indicated below. The different incubations are carried out within TRobot (Biométra).
    Reagents RT buffer dNTP Primer RNase OUT RT H2O Volume 5 pL 2 pL 5 pL 0.5 pL 2.5 pL 10 pL
    Table 1: High Capacity Reverse Transcription Kit 2X reaction mixture for 1 reaction • PCR-TaqMan Low Density Array pL of each RT are mixed with 60 μl of water then 75 μL of TaqMan Gene Expression master mix (ThermoFisher reference 4369510), containing l 'DNA polymerase, are added. After homogenization, 100 μL are deposited on the microfluidic cards containing the probes corresponding to the genes tested (table 2 below), the latter are centrifuged and then sealed. The CD Rom corresponding to the profile of the genes deposited on the plates is loaded into the SDS 2.3 software, specifying the location of each gene on the map. The control gene (or “endogeneous” gene) to be used for the normalization of the results is to be indicated before the launch of the PCR. The latter is carried out according to the protocol provided by Applied Biosystems in the ABI Prism 7900HT Sequence detection System device. The qPCR steps are 2 min at 50 ° C, 10 min at 94.5 ° C then 30 s at 97 ° C and 1 min at 59.7 ° C for 40 cycles.
    Uncomfortable Symbol TaqMan Reference RefSeq N °accessionGenBank Transglutaminase 1 TGM1 Hs00165929_m1 NM_000359 Small Prolin-RichProtein 1B (Cornifine) SPR1B Hs00824893_m1 NM_003125 Cytokeratin 1 KRT1 Hs00196158_m1 NM_006121.3 E-Cadherin CDH1 Hs00170423_m1 NM_001317184.1 Connexin 43 GJA1 Hs00748445_s1 NM_000165.4 Desmoglein DSG1 Hs00170047_m1 N M_001942.3 occludin OCLN Hs00170162_m1 NM_001205254.2 Claudin-1 Cldn1 Hs00221623_m1 NM_021101.4
    Table 2: list of genes on the microfluidic map.
    Statistical analyzes
    Quantitative real-time PCR can be used if its efficiency is between 90% and 110%. For each sample, the number of cycles at which the signal appears is determined by the SDS 2.3 software. For the same test, the expression levels of the transcripts of interest obtained are normalized with respect to the value obtained for the household gene Beta-2-microglobulin. This gene, the expression of which is constitutive and invariant, makes it possible to overcome any variations induced during the experiment (assay of total RNAs, pipetting, reverse transcription step, PCR in the apparatus).
    In the RT-PCR TLDA method, quantification is performed using the AACt comparative method. The relative quantization values (RQ) obtained correspond to the level of amplitude (x times more or less than the control) of the expression compared to our control here the non-irradiated. The RQ is obtained by the following calculation where the control is equal to 1:
    RQ _ 2-AACt _ 2 '( û Ct treated - ACt untreated)
    ACt treated = Ct target gene treated - Ct household gene treated
    Untreated ACt untreated target gene Ct - untreated household gene Ct
    In order to assess variations in statistically significant transcriptional activity, we will use Student's t-test. Each condition is performed in triplicate (3 untreated and 3 treated under the same conditions). Fischer's F-test is first applied by comparing the two data matrices. When the value is greater than a = 0.05 then the variance for Student's t-test is 2, when the Fischer's F-test is less than a = 0.05 then the variance will be equal to 3. The variations Transcriptional retained will be those that have a Student t test less than a = 0.05.
    The results are presented on average over n = 3. Student's t-test was used to compare the effect between treated and untreated cells.
    The results are considered significant for p <0.05 (*) or p <0.01 (**).
    The results are presented in the following table 3:
    Table 3
    Genes type Uncomfortable Symbol Extract*0.15% Extract*0.31% Differentiation / Skin barrier / Lipids / QuamationTransglutaminase 1 TGM1 2,148 2,716Small Prolin-RichProtein 1B(Cornifin) SPRR1B 1,782 2,272Cytokeratin 1 KRT1 2,207 2,641 Membership / Cohesion /Communication E-Cadherin CDH1 - 1,516
    Connexin 43 GJA1 1,489 2,199desmoglein DSG1 1,832 3,139Occludin OCLN 1,430 2,319Claudin-1 Cldn1 - 2,072
    * aqueous extract of rose fruits described in the materials and methods paragraph
    At the dose of 0.31%, for each marker, this corresponds to an increase of:
    Table 4
    transglutaminase + 172% SPRR 1B *Small Small Proline-RichProtein 1B + 127% Keratin 1 + 164% Cadherine 1 + 52% Connexin 43 + 120% Desmoglein 1 + 214% occludin + 132% Claudine 1 + 107%
    These results show that the aqueous extract of rose fruits according to the invention stimulates the expression of genes involved in cohesion and epidermal differentiation.
    And the effect of the aqueous extract of rose fruit (0.31% by weight of raw material equivalent to 52.7pg / mL (/ MS) stimulates the expression of the Desmoglein 1 gene (DSG1) 10 with an increase + 214% well higher than that obtained in another experiment for a cryoextract of flowers at a slightly higher dose (1% by weight of raw material equivalent to 65pg / mL (/ MS)): + 58%; knowing moreover that this cryoextract not stimulated the other genes.
    Example 3 Effect of the aqueous extract of rose fruits on the densification of the extra cellular matrix
    Normal human fibroblasts (FHN) were treated or not with the aqueous extract of rose fruits according to the invention for 24 hours, at a dose of 0.15% (equivalent to 25pg / ML of dry matter). After treatment of the FHN, a study by Taqman Low Density Array (TLDA) on different genes is carried out from the cDNAs obtained after reverse transcription of the total RNAs extracted from the FHNs.
    Culture of HLFs
    The fibroblasts are from a tummy tuck from a 37-year-old female donor. The cells are seeded in DMEM medium 1 g / L glucose supplemented with 10% fetal calf serum at P5 with a seeding density of 250,000 cells per well, in 6-well plates. The day before treatment, the cells are cultured in DMEM medium 1 g / L glucose without fetal calf serum.
    Treatment of FHN
    At confluence, the cells are treated with the aqueous extract of rose fruits, prepared extemporaneously at the final concentration of use in DMEM medium 1 g / L glucose without fetal calf serum. After 24 hours of treatment, the cells are recovered in order to extract the total RNA therefrom.
    TLDA (TaqMan Low Density Array)
    The study using TLDA technology on a list of genes is carried out using cDNAs obtained after reverse transcription of the total RNAs extracted from the FHNs according to the protocol described in Example 1.
    Uncomfortable Symbol ReferenceTaqMan RefSeq GeneBank accession number Collagen 1 COL1A1 Hs00164004_m1 NM_000088.3 Collagen 3 COL3A1 Hs00164103_m1 NM_000090.3 Collagen 5 COL5A1 Hs00609088_m1 NM_000093.4
    elastin ELN Hs00355783_m1 NM_000201.3 Emiline 1 Emilinl Hs00170878_m1 NM_007046.3 Fibrillin 1 FBN1 Hs00171191_m1 NM_000138.4 Lysyl oxidase like 1 LOXL1 Hs00173746_m1 NM_005576.3 Procollagen C endopeptidase enhancer PCOLCE Hs00170179_m1 NM_002893.3 Matrix Metalloprotease 3 MMP3 Hs00233962_m1 NM_002422.4
    Table 5: list of genes on the microfluidic map
    The results are presented in the following table 6:
    Table 6
    Genes type Uncomfortable Symbol Extract*0.15% Quick 50pg / mL (positive control) Synthesis- induction Collagen 1 COL1A1 16.015 3,471 Collagen 3 COL3A1 2,818 2,599 Collagen 5 COL5A1 12,987 1,911 elastin ELN 15.762 1,016 Assembly Emilin 1 Emilinl 5,330 2,509 Fibrillin 1 FBN1 1,947 0.989 Lysyl oxidase like 1LOWL1 LOXL1 2,995 1,202 Procollagen C endopeptidase enhancer PCOLCE 1,450 1,156 Degradation of the matrix MatrixMetalloproeinase 3 MMP3 0.679 1,205
    * aqueous extract of rose fruits described in the materials and methods paragraph
    At a dose of 0.15%, for each marker, this corresponds to an increase of:
    Table 7
    Extract*0.15%(25pg / mL) Quick (50pg / mL) Collagen 1 1500 +% + 247% Collagen 3 + 182% + 160% Collagen 5 + 1200% + 91% elastin 1476 +% NS Emilin 1 + 433% + 151% Fibrillin 1 + 95% NS Lysyl oxidase like 1LOWL1 + 200% NS Procollagen C endopeptidase enhancer + 45% NS Matrix Metalloproeinase 3 -32% NS
    * aqueous extract of rose fruits described in the materials and methods paragraph
    These results show that the aqueous extract of rose fruits according to the invention stimulates the gene expression of proteins of the extracellular matrix: Collagen
    I, III, V, elastin as well as enzymes involved in the formation of fibers: LOX (Lysyl oxidase), PECOL (Procollagen C-endopeptidase enhancer), and that in parallel it inhibits enzymes of degradation of the extracellular matrix (MMP3 ).
    And this effect of the aqueous extract of rose fruit (0.15% by weight of raw material equivalent to 25.5pg / mL (/ MS) is much greater than that obtained in the same experiment for a cryo extract of flowers at a dose more than 2 times higher (1% by weight of raw material equivalent to 65pg / mL (/ MS)) as the following results show:
    Table 8
    Uncomfortable Extract*0.15% Cryoextrait **1% Quick 50pg / mL (positive control) Collagen 1 16.015 7,998 3,471 Collagen 3 2,818 1,928 2,599 Collagen 5 12,987 2,960 1,911 elastin 15.762 7.353 1,016 Emilin 1 5,330 1,198 2,509 Fibrillin 1 1,947 0.960 0.989 Lysyl oxidase like 1LOWL1 2,995 1,177 1,202 Procollagen C endopeptidase enhancer 1,450 0.888 1,156 MatrixMetalloproeinase 3 0.679 0.471 1,205
    * aqueous extract of rose fruits described in the materials and methods paragraph ** extract of rose flowers described in the materials and methods paragraph
    Example 4 Effect of the aqueous extract of rose fruits on vascular permeability 5 (concealer / microcirculation)
    In the context of the TLDA study described in Example 1, it was also shown that the extract of rose fruits at the 0.15% dose inhibited -74% the expression of VEGF, the growth factor of the vascular endothelium, involved in vascular permeability. This effect is particularly advantageous for the use of the extract according to the invention in the area around the eyes.
    All of these results show that the aqueous extract of rose fruits according to the invention, in particular the aqueous extract of rose fruits comprising 1% by weight of dry matter (active material), 97.5% by weight of water, 0.5% citric acid and preservatives qs100%, from the dose of 0.15%:
    - increases the synthesis of ATP promoting the supply of energy to skin cells;
    - stimulates the gene expression of markers of cohesion and epidermal differentiation participating in the strengthening of the barrier function;
    - stimulates the gene expression of proteins of the extracellular matrix and inhibits degradation enzymes, participating in the densification of the extracellular matrix, and
    - inhibits the gene expression of the vascular endothelium growth factor VEGF, participating in a decrease in vascular permeability.
    And that these stimulating effects on the barrier function and the extracellular matrix are more important than those obtained with a cryoextract of flowers.
    We therefore understand the advantage of using an extract of rose fruits according to the invention to promote and / or improve cohesion and epidermal differentiation, strengthening of the barrier function, densification of the extracellular matrix, reduction of cellular permeability, in the skin of the face and in particular in the area around the eyes, particularly fine and fragile and subject to the formation of dark circles and / or puffiness.
    The extract of rose fruits according to the invention has been used, at different concentrations, alone or in combination with other extracts of rose with complementary properties, in different cosmetic formulations The percentages% are expressed by weight of raw material unless otherwise stated.
    Example 5 Cosmetic Formulations
    5.1 Composition in the form of an emulsion
    Aqueous phase :
    Demineralized water qs 100.0%
    Glycols 20.0%
    Preservatives 0.6%
    0.04% chelating
    Carbomer (Carbopol® 981) 0.3%
    Sodium polyacrylate (Covacryl® MV60) 0.2%
    Sodium HydroxideAqueous extract of rose fruits according to the invention *Fat phase: 0.15%3.0% Vegetable oil, esters, silicones Anti-oxidantFragrance concentrateSteareth-2 16%0.2%0.4%0.8% Steareth-21* as described in the equipment and methods paragraph 1.5%
    The composition is prepared according to the following procedure:
    the gelling agents are dispersed in the aqueous phase (excluding aqueous extract of rose fruits and sodium hydroxide) which is brought to 70 ° C;
    the fatty phase (excluding perfume concentrate, antioxidant) is heated to 70 ° C; the emulsion is produced by introducing the fatty phase into the aqueous phase with vigorous stirring;
    the gelling agents are neutralized by adding sodium hydroxide and the emulsion is cooled with moderate stirring with the introduction of the perfume concentrate, the antioxidant and the aqueous extract of rose fruits at low temperature.
    Applied to the skin, in particular to the face, this composition provides nutrition, firmness and hydration to the skin.
    5.2 Composition in the form of a solid dispersion of fatty substances, in the form
    spherical or spheroidAqueous phaseDemineralized Water qs 100% Cryo extract of rose *Aqueous extract of rose fruits according to the invention *phenoxyethanolXanthan gumFat phaseCi Q-18 triglycerides 3.00%3.00%0.42%0.36%38.84%
    Satin Oil * 1%
    AntiOxydant 0.1% * as described in the Material and methods paragraph above.
    The composition is prepared according to the following procedure:
    the wax (C10-18 triglycerides = Gatefoss Lipocire) is heated above its melting point (a few degrees) with the antioxidant and the oily extract of rose Satin oil;
    the molten fatty phase is poured with stirring into water previously heated to the same temperature as the fatty phase;
    .the whole is kept under agitation by a rotary system for a few minutes until the desired droplet size is obtained;
    the dispersion obtained is rapidly cooled by adding pre-cooled glycol water (approximately -4 ° C) to solidify the lipid spheroids; agitation is stopped when the spheroids are solidified and are then recovered from the surface or filtered;
    the aqueous phase is prepared by mixing the water, the xanthan gum, the preservative and the cryo rose extract, and the aqueous extract of rose fruits according to the invention;
    the spheroids are recovered on the surface and incorporated into the xanthan gel containing the cryo rose extract and the aqueous extract of rose fruits according to the invention.
    Applied to the skin, this composition gives a nourished, smoother and firmer appearance to the skin.
    5.3: Composition in the form of an aqueous gel for the face
    Aqueous extract of rose fruits according to the invention * 95.00%
    Preservatives 0.50%
    0.20% sugar
    Carbomer 0.70%
    Purified water Qsp 100%
    Tetrasodium EDTA powder 0.20%
    Sodium hydroxide
    0.17% * as described in the Materials and methods paragraph
    The rose fruit extract according to the invention and the preservatives are mixed and homogenized at room temperature with stirring. The sugars are added with stirring, then the carbomer, then the water and the EDTA with stirring. The aqueous gel is then neutralized with the addition of sodium hydroxide with stirring until a homogeneous gel is obtained.
    Applied on the skin of the face, this aqueous gel gives a fresh effect, and brings suppleness and firmness to the skin.
    5.4: Composition in the form of an aqueous gel
    Aqueous extract of rose fruits according to the invention * 80.00%
    Phenoxyethanol 0.50%
    Glycols 12.0%
    Polyol 2.0%
    Thickening polymer (INCI name
    Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium
    Acryloyldimethyl Taurate
    Copolymer, Sepinov ™ EMT 10 1.60%
    BHT
    0.20%
    Alcohol 96.2% vol kg
    Rose scent
    qs 100%
    0.30% * as described in the Materials and methods paragraph
    The aqueous extract of rose fruits according to the invention, phenoxyethanol, and the glycols are mixed with stirring at room temperature; the polyol is then added with stirring. The Sepinov ™ EMT 10 surfactant is then added and emulsified in the aqueous phase with stirring, and then alcohol, BHT and rose fragrance are added.
    Applied on the skin of the face, this aqueous gel gives a fresh effect, and brings suppleness and firmness to the skin.
    5.5: Composition in the form of a micronutrient gel-serum for the eye area
    Purified water Qsp 100.00%
    Glycols 13.0%
    Preservatives 0.60%
    Carbomer 0.80%
    Glyceryl stearate citrate 0.70%
    Lecithin and sodium acrylates copolymer (Lecigel PCR negative) 1.20%
    Isostearate isostearyle 9.0%
    Bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 (Softisan 649 MB) 1.0%
    Silica 2.0%
    Mother of Pearl 1.0%
    Cryo extract of rose * 3.0%
    Centella asiatica extract 0.5%
    0.1% horse chestnut extract
    Aqueous extract of rose fruit according to the invention * 3.0%
    Tocopheryl acetate 0.10%
    0.20% rose scent
    Satin oil * 1.0% * as described in the Materials and Methods paragraph
    The ingredients of the aqueous phase (water, glycols and carbomer) are mixed at 80 ° C with stirring. The preservatives are then added, then the gelling agents at 80 ° C. with stirring, then the temperature is lowered to 75 ° C. Then the surfactants are emulsified in the aqueous phase with stirring. The fillers and nacres, previously pasted and homogenized, are added at 40 ° C. The cryo extract, the aqueous rose extract according to the invention and the other extracts are then added at 40 ° C., with stirring up to 30 ° C.
    After applying this serum gel to the eye area, puffiness and dark circles appear to fade for a visibly refreshed, illuminated, radiant look. The skin appears nourished, firmer, smoother (reduction in the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles), hydrated and more homogeneous in color.
    权利要求:
    Claims (12)
    [1" id="c-fr-0001]
    1. Cosmetic composition for topical application to the skin comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least an effective amount of at least one aqueous extract of rose fruits, in particular of the Evanrat or Rose Jardin de Granville® variety.
    [2" id="c-fr-0002]
    2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the aqueous extract of rose fruits is present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1% to 95%, in particular from 0.1% to 20%, preferably from 0.5% to 10% and more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight of raw material relative to the total weight of said composition.
    [3" id="c-fr-0003]
    3. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the cosmetic composition is in the form of a solution, an emulsion, a serum or a gel, preferably an aqueous gel for the eye area.
    [4" id="c-fr-0004]
    4. Cosmetic process intended to promote and / or improve the supply of nutrients to the skin, promote and / or improve cohesion and / or epidermal differentiation, promote and / or improve the barrier function, densify the extracellular matrix and / or reduce its degradation, improve the elasticity and / or firmness of the skin, in particular around the eyes, prevent and / or reduce dark circles and / or puffiness around the eyes, improve the radiance and / or uniformity of the skin, in particular around the eyes, promote and / or improve hydration, and / or prevent and / or reduce the formation of wrinkles and / or fine lines, including application to the skin, in particular of the face and / or of the neck and preferably around the eyes, of a cosmetic composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 3.
    [5" id="c-fr-0005]
    5. Cosmetic method according to claim 4, intended to prevent and / or reduce dark circles and / or puffiness around the eyes, and / or improve the radiance and / or the homogeneity of the skin around the eyes, comprising the application to the eye area of a cosmetic composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 3.
    [6" id="c-fr-0006]
    6. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use of at least one effective amount of at least one aqueous extract of rose fruits, in particular of the Evanrat or Rose Jardin de Granville® variety, as an agent intended to promote and / or improve the intake in nutrients to the skin, promote and / or improve cohesion and / or epidermal differentiation, promote and / or improve the barrier function, densify the extracellular matrix and / or decrease its degradation, improve the elasticity and / or firmness of the skin, in particular around the eyes, prevent and / or reduce dark circles and / or puffiness around the eyes, improve the radiance and / or consistency of the skin, in particular around the eyes, promote and / or improve hydration, and / or prevent and / or reduce the formation of wrinkles and / or fine lines.
    [7" id="c-fr-0007]
    7. Cosmetic set comprising:
    A cosmetic composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 3, and
    An applicator suitable for topical application on the skin of the face, in particular on the eye area.
    [8" id="c-fr-0008]
    8. Aqueous extract of rose fruits of the Evanrat or Jardin de Granville® variety, comprising 1% rose fruit (active ingredient), 97.5% water, 0.5% citric acid and preservatives qs 100%.
    [9" id="c-fr-0009]
    9. Aqueous extract of rose fruits of the Evanrat or Rose de Granville® variety, comprising a total sugar content ranging from 1 to 3%, and comprising in particular fructose, glucose and optionally sucrose.
    [10" id="c-fr-0010]
    10. Aqueous extract of rose fruits of the Evanrat or Rose de Granville® variety, obtained according to the extraction process comprising the following steps:
    a) harvesting fresh intermediate and / or ripe fruit, possibly stored at -20 ° C,
    b) crushing fruit
    c) mixture of 5 to 30%, in particular 10% of plant material in water, preferably acidified at a temperature ranging in particular from 10 to 60 ° C, in particular 30 ° C,
    d) gradual rise in temperature of the mixture, in particular from 30 to 100 ° C, in particular up to 50 to 70 ° C, even up to 60 ° C,
    e) extraction, possibly with stirring,
    f) liquid / solid separation,
    g) optionally adding preservatives,
    h) filtration, in particular up to 0.22pm,
    5 i) optionally packaging, if necessary under nitrogen,
    j) optionally storage at + 4 ° C.
    FRENCH REPUBLIC
    EPO FORM 1503 12.99 (P04C14)

    INDUSTRIAL PROPERTY
    PRELIMINARY SEARCH REPORT based on the latest claims filed before the start of the search
    DOCUMENTS CONSIDERED AS RELEVANT
    Category
    Citation of the document with indication, if necessary, of the relevant parts
    W0 2007/112995 A2 (DSM IP ASSETS BV [NL]; GORALCZYK REGINA [DE]; SCHWAGER JOSEPH [FR]; WE)
    [11" id="c-fr-0011]
    October 11, 2007 (2007-10-11) * page 9, line 1 - page 10, line 18 * * page 11, line 30 - page 15, line 15 * * page 18, line 26 * * page 20, line 10 - line 19 * * page 22, line 11 - line 28 * * page 23, line 4 - line 21 * * page 24, line 11 - page 33, line 20; claims
    1-6,9,1213,17-24,33,35,38-47,51,52 * * page 48, last paragraph; example 1 *
    DE 196 51 428 Al (HENKEL KGAA [DE])
    June 18, 1998 (1998-06-18) * page 1; claim 14; examples 1-5 *
    SU 829 111 Al (KH PARFYUMERNO KOSMETICHESKAYA [SU])
    May 15, 1981 (1981-05-15) * page 1, line 23 *
    DATABASE GNPD [Online]
    MINTEL;
    [12" id="c-fr-0012]
    August 12, 2010 (2010-08-12), anonymous: Turkish Rose & White Tea Eye Cream,
    XP055531322, extract from www.gnpd.com
    Database accession no. 1387244 * abbreviated *
    - / Date of completion of research
    December 6, 2018
    CATEGORY OF DOCUMENTS CITED
    X: particularly relevant on its own
    Y: particularly relevant in combination with another document in the same category
    A: technological background
    O: non-eorite disclosure
    P: intermediate document
    National registration number
    FA 851042
    FR 1853508
    Relevant claim (s)
    1-7
    1-7
    1-7
    1-7
    Classification attributed to the invention by ΙΊΝΡΙ
    A61K8 / 97
    A61Q19 / 08
    TECHNICAL AREAS
    RESEARCHED (IPC)
    A61Q
    A61K
    Examiner
    Kling, Isabelle
    T: theory or principle underlying the invention
    E: patent document with a date prior to the filing date and which was only published on that filing date or on a later date.
    D: cited in the request
    L: cited for other reasons &: member of the same family, corresponding document page 1 of 2
    FRENCH REPUBLIC

    INDUSTRIAL PROPERTY
    PRELIMINARY SEARCH REPORT based on the latest claims filed before the start of the search
    National registration number
    FA 851042
    FR 1853508
    EPO FORM 1503 12.99 (P04C14)
    DOCUMENTS CONSIDERED AS RELEVANT Relevant claim (s) Classification attributed to the invention by ΙΊΝΡΙ Category Citation of the document with indication, if necessary, of the relevant parts XXX DATABASE GNPD [Online]MINTEL;July 21, 2017 (2017-07-21), anonymous: Moisturizing Toning Scented Cream,XP055531325,extract from www.gnpd.comDatabase accession no. 4970475* abbreviated *DATABASE GNPD [Online]MINTEL;March 26, 2009 (2009-03-26),anonymous: Eye Witness Eye Repair Cream, XP055531326,extract from www.gnpd.comDatabase accession no. 1078855* abbreviated *DATABASE GNPD [Online]MINTEL;March 5, 2018 (2018-03-05), anonymous: Rose Hip Sérum, XP055531327,extract from www.gnpd.comDatabase accession no. 5497901* abbreviated * 1-71-71-7 TECHNICAL AREASRESEARCHED (IPC) Research Completion Date ExaminerDecember 6, 2018 Kling, Isabelle CATEGORY OF DOCUMENTS CITED T: theory or principle underlying the inventionE: patent document with an earlier date X: particularly relevant on its own at the filing date and which was not published until that dateY: particularly relevant in combination with a deposit or at a later date.other document of the same category d: cited in the requestA: technological background L: cited for other reasonsO: non-eorite disclosureP: intermediate document &; member of the same family, corresponding document
    page 2 of 2
    ANNEX TO THE PRELIMINARY RESEARCH REPORT
    RELATING TO THE FRENCH PATENT APPLICATION NO. FR 1853508 FA 851042
    This appendix indicates the members of the patent family relating to the patent documents cited in the preliminary search report referred to above.
    The said members are contained in the computer file of the European Patent Office on the date of 10-12-2018
    The information provided is given for information only and does not engage the responsibility of the European Patent Office or the French Administration
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    引用文献:
    公开号 | 申请日 | 公开日 | 申请人 | 专利标题
    SU829111A1|1979-05-04|1981-05-15|Харьковская Парфюмерно-Косметическаяфабрика|Face skin cream|
    DE19651428A1|1996-12-11|1998-06-18|Henkel Kgaa|Skin protection products|
    WO2007112996A2|2006-03-31|2007-10-11|Dsm Ip Assets B.V.|Use of compounds and combinations of compounds for improving the physical appearance|FR3111543A1|2020-06-22|2021-12-24|L V M H Recherche|NEW USES OF A ROSEWOOD EXTRACT|
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    法律状态:
    2019-03-20| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 2 |
    2019-10-25| PLSC| Publication of the preliminary search report|Effective date: 20191025 |
    2020-03-19| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 3 |
    2021-03-23| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 4 |
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    FR1853508|2018-04-20|
    FR1853508A|FR3080285B1|2018-04-20|2018-04-20|COSMETIC COMPOSITION INCLUDING AN AQUEOUS ROSE FRUIT EXTRACT|FR1853508A| FR3080285B1|2018-04-20|2018-04-20|COSMETIC COMPOSITION INCLUDING AN AQUEOUS ROSE FRUIT EXTRACT|
    EP19730395.1A| EP3781266A1|2018-04-20|2019-04-19|Cosmetic composition comprising an aqueous extract of rose fruit|
    PCT/FR2019/050941| WO2019202279A1|2018-04-20|2019-04-19|Cosmetic composition comprising an aqueous extract of rose fruit|
    US17/048,880| US20210369595A1|2018-04-20|2019-04-19|Cosmetic composition comprising an aqueous extract of rose fruit|
    CN201980040462.7A| CN112312889A|2018-04-20|2019-04-19|Cosmetic composition comprising aqueous extract of rose fruit|
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    KR1020207032734A| KR20210003156A|2018-04-20|2019-04-19|Cosmetic composition containing aqueous extract of rose fruit|
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