EPAISSY OXIDATION COMPOSITION

专利摘要:
The invention relates to an agent for coloring keratinous fibres, in particular human hair, containing in a cosmetic support at least one direct-acting dye, at least one amphoteric surfactant, in particular at least one alkyl betaine, and at least one alkyl polyglycoside, in particular at least one alkylpolyglucoside, characterized in that the total content, expressed by weight, of amphoteric surfactant (b) in the agent - relative to the total weight of the agent - is lower than the total content, expressed by weight, of alkylpolyglycoside (c) or equal to the total content expressed by weight of alkylpolyglycoside (c). The invention also relates to the use of the agent for coloring keratin fibres, as well as to a method in which the agent is applied to the keratin fibers for coloring.
公开号:FR3076725A1
申请号:FR1872847
申请日:2018-12-13
公开日:2019-07-19
发明作者:Camille Grosjacques；Yvonne Lissner；Susanne Bietz；Katharina Krause；Daniel Eisebitt
申请人:Henkel AG and Co KGaA；
IPC主号:

专利说明:

Title of the invention: Improved coloring shampoos The present invention belongs to the field of cosmetics and relates to a coloring agent (also referred to hereinafter as coloring agent) of keratin fibers, in particular human hair, which contains, in a cosmetic support, at least one coloring agent with direct action, as well as a combination of at least one amphoteric surfactant and at least one alkylpolyglycoside. These coloring agents are perfectly suited for
- increasing the chromaticity of the dyes on the keratin fiber and / or
- the increase in the color test of the dyes on the keratin fiber and / or
- increasing the intensity of the color of the dyes on the keratin fiber.
A second object of the present invention consists in a process for dyeing keratin fibers, in the context of which a coloring agent containing a combination of at least one amphoteric surfactant and at least one alkylpolyglycoside as a nonionic surfactant is used .
A third object of the present invention relates to the use of the agent according to the invention for the coloring of keratin fibers, in the context of which a coloring agent containing a combination of at least one amphoteric surfactant and at least one alkylpolyglycoside is used.
The modification of the shape and color of keratin fibers, in particular of the hair, is an important area for the modern cosmetic sector. These methods make it possible to adapt the appearance of the hair according to current fashion trends as well as according to the particular wishes of the persons concerned. Depending on the requirements for coloring, the skilled person knows different color systems in order to change the color of the hair. Oxidation coloring agents are generally used for permanent, intense dyes characterized by good characteristics of authenticity and good coverage of gray hair. These coloring agents generally contain oxidation dye precursors, called developer components and coupler components, which produce the dyes themselves between themselves under the action of oxidizing agents such as hydrogen peroxide. Oxidizing coloring agents are characterized by exceptional and long-lasting color results, but nevertheless cause a certain deterioration in the condition of the hair.
If the user wishes to reduce this damage to the hair or only temporarily modify his hair color, he can use coloring agents which have the principle of mounting directly on the fiber. In this case, the dyes already developed diffuse into the hair fiber from the coloring agent. Compared to oxidation dyes, the dyes obtained from direct-acting dyes are characterized by less durability and by faster rinsing elimination. In general, the covering properties of gray hair obtained by direct-acting dyes can also be improved. However, this type of coloring has the advantage of damaging the hair less.
Depending on the desired color result, the skilled person uses direct action dyes from different categories of dyes. Direct-acting dyes as known in the current state of the art belong, for example, to the category of nitro dyes, anthraquinone dyes, azo dyes, triarylmethane dyes or methine dyes. All these categories of dyes must meet a certain profile of requirements for use in the cosmetic field. Thus, direct acting dyes must provide an intense color result and have as good authenticity properties as possible. The color result obtained with direct-acting dyes must be influenced as little as possible by weather conditions, i.e. the dyes must have, for example, good resistance to washing, light and friction. The color result must also be modified as little as possible by the chemical phenomena to which the keratin fibers can be exposed after the coloring process (such as perms for example).
The direct action dyes can be divided into anionic, cationic and nonionic direct action dyes. In cosmetic compositions, these dyes interact in various ways with the other components of the compositions. In this case, the surface active ingredients, such as surfactants or emulsifiers, contained in these compositions have an essential influence. These active ingredients must, in cosmetic compositions, rid the keratin fibers of impurities and / or emulsify themselves of the components of the composition. However, depending on the choice of surfactant, interactions may also occur between these active ingredients and the direct dyes, which sometimes considerably deteriorate the color result compared to agents which do not contain surfactants.
[0008] Surfactants or emulsifiers are amphiphilic (bifunctional) compounds consisting of at least part of a hydrophobic molecule and at least a part of a hydrophilic molecule. Regarding the hydrophobic residue, it is generally a hydrocarbon chain. The hydrophilic residue may have, depending on the type of surfactant, a negative charge, a positive charge, a negative and positive charge or no charge.
Regarding anionic surfactants, the hydrophilic molecule part comprises at least one negatively charged hydrophilic head group. Anionic surfactants contain exclusively negative charges.
By cationic surfactants is meant surfactants (also called substances with surfactant effect) respectively endowed with one or more positive charges. Cationic surfactants contain exclusively positive charges.
Zwitterionic surfactants (amphoterics) include, in the hydrophilic molecule part, at least one negatively charged group and at least one positively charged group. These are spatially separated and adjacent to each other, and make the surfactant electrically neutral.
There are also nonionic surfactants (nonionogenic), which are characterized by the absence of electrical charges in the molecules.
Those skilled in the art have known for a long time that many surfactants can significantly deteriorate the color test of direct acting dyes on keratin fibers. Not all types of surfactants are compatible with all direct-acting dyes. The color test of direct-acting dyes depends significantly on the type of surfactants and the type of dyes. As such, anionic surfactants notably have a negative influence on the color test of nonionic and cationic dyes, but also of anionic dyes. On the other hand, cationic surfactants in particular have a negative influence on the color test of nonionic and anionic dyes, but also of cationic dyes.
To get around this problem, to date, as a general rule, only compositions are used in which the dye and the surfactant are precisely adjusted with respect to one another. It is therefore not possible to use any dye with each surfactant or to combine several dyes with each other as desired to thereby obtain the desired shade.
In the state of the art, various compositions of this type are therefore described. Document EP 1 935 455 A1 discloses a composition comprising a direct-acting dye in combination with at least one bioheteropolysaccharide, at least one cationic surfactant and at least one amphoteric surfactant.
Document WO 2013/041485 A2 describes a composition comprising at least one dye, for example a direct-acting dye, at least one fatty substance in the form of a long-chain dialkyl carbonate or of a carbonate of dialkenyl, at least one nonionic surfactant as well as at least one cationic and / or amphoteric polymer. Cleaning compositions with different combinations of surfactants are described for example in documents WO 2016/040158 A1,
WO 2013/082413 A1 and WO 2014/149019 A1. None of these compositions is specially adapted for the improved application of color by direct-acting dyes.
Traditional direct-acting surface-active coloring agents (coloring shampoos) generally have an optimization either on the coloring properties as far as possible, or on the cleaning properties as good as possible or a foam formation as good as possible. The choice of direct-acting dyes and of surfactants which can be combined with each other is limited and therefore limits the flexibility of the possible combinations of direct-acting dyes.
The present invention therefore aimed to prepare a surface-active coloring agent, on the basis of direct-acting dyes, being compatible with a wide variety of different direct dyes and guaranteeing a good color test.
The agent must also allow the greatest variety of colors, chromaticity and color intensity possible.
Finally, the agent must also have a good cleaning effect and good foaming properties, and must be easy to apply.
Surprisingly, it has been found that many different direct acting dyes in a cosmetic surfactant composition, in particular a shampoo (coloring shampoo), can be used alone with improved coloring performance or combined with one another, if the cosmetic surfactant composition comprises at least one direct-acting dye, in combination with at least one amphoteric surfactant and at least one alkylpolyglycoside.
A particularly good color test is obtained when the total content, expressed by weight, of amphoteric surfactant is less than or equal to the total content, expressed by weight, of alkylpolyglycoside. Other improvements in color proof were seen when the surfactant formulations were developed using surfactant preparations without sodium chloride.
A first object of the present invention is an agent for coloring keratin fibers, in particular human hair, containing, in a cosmetic support,
at. at least one direct-acting dye,
b. at least one amphoteric surfactant, in particular at least one alkyl betaine, and
vs. at least one alkylpolyglycoside, characterized in that the total content, expressed by weight, of amphoteric surfactant (b) in the agent - relative to the weight of the agent - is less than the total content expressed by weight in alkylpolyglycoside (c) or equal to the total content expressed by weight of alkylpolyglycoside (c).
By keratin fibers or keratin fibers is meant materials such as furs, wool, feathers and in particular human hair. Although the agents are primarily suitable for coloring keratin fibers, there is in principle nothing to prevent its use in other fields.
By the expression used “coloring agent” of keratin fibers is meant dyes which color the keratin fibers on the basis of direct-acting dyes.
The characteristic of the product according to the invention is first of all its content of essential ingredients (b) and (c). It has been found that particularly advantageous agents can be obtained when the total content, expressed by weight, of amphoteric surfactant in the agent - relative to the weight of the agent - is less than or equal to the total content expressed by weight into an alkylpolyglycoside.
The product according to the invention contains at least one direct action dye (a) as the first essential ingredient.
The direct action dye (s) is / are preferably present in the coloring agent in a total amount ranging from 0.001 to 7% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to
5.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.08 to 3.4% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.3 to
1.5% by weight and particularly preferably 0.6 to 1% by weight, respectively based on the weight of the coloring agent.
The direct action dyes (a) can be divided into anionic, cationic and nonionic direct action dyes. The direct-acting dyes are generally selected from nitrophenylenes diamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones, triarylmethane dyes or indophenols and their physiologically acceptable salts.
The dyes carrying exclusively anionic charges are designated by the skilled person by the term of acid dyes. In the context of the present invention, the terms anionic dye and acid dye are therefore used as synonyms. By anionic dyes or acid dyes is meant direct action dyes which have at least one carboxylic acid group (-COOH) and / or at least one sulfonic acid group (-SO ₃ H). Depending on the pH value, the protonated forms (-COOH, -SO ₃ H) of the carboxylic acid or sulfonic acid groups are in equilibrium with their deprotonated forms (-COO, -SO ₃ ). The proportion of protonated forms increases when the pH value decreases. If the direct-acting dyes are used in the form of salts, the carboxylic acid groups or the sulphonic acid groups are in deprotonated form and are neutralized in order to preserve the electroneutrality, using stoichiometric equivalents. corresponding cations (such as, for example, a sodium cation or potassium cations). An anionic dye has no cationic charge.
It is for example possible to select, as suitable acid dyes, one or more compounds from the following groups: Acid Yellow 1 (D&C Yellow 7, Citronine A, Ext. D&C Yellow No. 7, Japan Yellow 403, CI 10316, COLIPA ri B001), Acid Yellow 3 (COLIPA n °: C 54, D&C Yellow N ° 10, Quinoline Yellow, E104, Food Yellow 13), Acid Yellow 9 (CI 13015), Acid Yellow 17 (CI 18965) , Acid Yellow 23 (COLIPA ri C 29, Covacap Jaune W 1100 (LCW), Sicovit Tartrazine 85 E 102 (BASF), Tartrazine, Food Yellow 4, Japan Yellow 4, FD&C Yellow No. 5), Acid Yellow 36 (CI 13065 ), Acid Yellow 121 (CI 18690), Acid Orange 6 (CI 14270), Acid Orange 7 (2-Naphthol orange, Orange II, CI 15510, D&C Orange 4, COLIPA ri C015), Acid Orange 10 (CI 16230; Orange G sodium knows), Acid Orange 11 (CI 45370), Acid Orange 15 (CI 50120), Acid Orange 20 (CI 14600), Acid Orange 24 (BROWN 1; CI 20170; KATSU201; no sodium knows; Brown No.201; RESORCIN BROWN; ACID ORANGE 24; Japan Brown 201; D & C Brown No.l) , Acid Red 14 (CI14720), Acid Red 18 (E124, Red 18; CI 16255), Acid Red 27 (E 123, CI 16185, CRot 46, Echtrot D, FD&C Red Nr.2, Food Red 9, Naphtholrot S), Acid Red 33 (Red 33, Fuchsia Red, D&C Red 33, CI 17200 ), Acid Red 35 (CI Cil8065), Acid Red 51 (CI 45430, Pyrosin B, Tetraiodfluorescein, Eosin J, Iodeosin), Acid Red 52 (CI 45100, Food Red 106, Solar Rhodamine B, Acid Rhodamine B, Red ri 106 Pontacyl Brilliant Pink), Acid Red 73 (CI CI 27290), Acid Red 87 (Eosin, CI 45380), Acid Red 92 (D&C Red; Red 104; AKA231; RED 28; SUREDYE; 11969 Red; PHLOXINE; CI 45405; CI 45410; EOSINE B); Acid Red 95 (CI 45425, Erythrosine, Simacid Erythrosine Y), Acid Red 184 (CI 15685), Acid Red 195; Pigment Red 57: 1 (E180; D &CRED7; CI 15850; Rubine 4BN; CI 15850: 1; PIGMENT RED 57; Litholrubine BK; LITHOLRUBINE RB; LITHOLRUBINE BCA; Lithol Rubine B); Acid Violet 43 (Jarocol Violet 43, Ext. D&C Violet ri 2, CI 60730, COLIPA ri C063), Acid Violet 49 (CI 42640), Acid Violet 50 (CI 50325), Acid Blue 1 (Patent Blue, CI 42045), Acid Blue 3 (Patent Blau V, CI 42051), Acid Blue 7 (CI 42080), Acid Blue 104 (CI 42735), Acid Blue 9 (E 133, Patentblau AE, Amidoblau AE, Erioglaucin A, CI 42090, CI Food Blue 2), Acid Blue 62 (CI 62045), Acid Blue 74 (E 132, CI 73015), Acid Blue 80 (CI 61585), Acid Green 3 (CI 42085, Foodgreenl), Acid Green 5 (CI 42095), Acid Green 9 (CI 42100), Acid Green 22 (CI 42170), Acid Green 25 (CI 61570, Japan Green 201, D&C Green No. 5), Acid Green 50 (Brillantsâuregrün BS, CI 44090, Acid Brilliant Green BS, E 142) , Acid Black 1 (Black ri 401, Naphthalene Black 10B, Amido Black 10B, CI 20470, COLIPA ri B15), Acid Black 52 (CI 15711), Food Yellow 8 (CI 14270), Food Blue 5, D&C Yellow 8, D&C Green 5, D&C Orange 10, D&C Orange 11, D&C Red 21, D&C Red 27, D&C Red 33, D&C Brown 1, bromophenol blue and / or t blue trabromophénol.
In another particularly preferred embodiment, the product according to the invention is characterized in that it contains (a) at least one dye with an anionic direct action from the group consisting of Acid Yellow 1, Acid Yellow 3, Acid Yellow
9, Acid Yellow 17, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Yellow 121, Acid Orange 6, Acid Orange 7, Acid Orange 10, Acid Orange 11, Acid Orange 15, Acid Orange 20, Acid Orange 24, Acid Red 14, Acid Red 18, Acid Red 27, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35, Acid Red 51, Acid Red 52, Acid Red 73, Acid Red 87, Acid Red 92, Acid Red 95, Acid Red 184, Acid Red 195, Acid Violet 43, Acid Violet 49, Acid Violet 50, Acid Blue 1, Acid Blue 3, Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 104, Acid Blue 9, Acid Blue 62, Acid Blue 74, Acid Blue 80, Acid Green 3, Acid Green 5, Acid Green 9, Acid Green 22, Acid Green 25, Acid Green 50, Acid Black 1, Acid Black 52, Food Yellow 8, Food Blue 5, D&C Yellow 7, D&C Yellow 8, D&C Orange 4, D&C Green 5, D&C Orange
10, D&C Orange 11, D&C Red 21, D&C Red 27, D&C Red 33, D&C Violet 2 and D&C Brown 1.
Particularly preferred is a product according to the invention characterized in that it comprises at least one direct action dye (a) anionic from the group consisting of Acid Orange 7, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 92; Acid Violet 43, Acid Blue 9, Acid Blue 62 and Acid Black 1.
The dye (s) with direct action (a) anionic (s) is / are preferably present (s) in the coloring agent in a total amount ranging from 0.001 to 7% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 5.5% by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 3.4% by weight and particularly preferably 0.3 to 2% by weight, respectively based on the weight of the coloring agent .
Other preferred coloring agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, as direct action dyes, (a) at least one dye with direct cationic action. Dyes carrying exclusively cationic charges are also generally designated as basic dyes.
As examples of basic (cationic) dyes, mention may be made of: Basic Blue 6 (CI-No. 51,175), Basic Blue 7 (CI-No. 42,595) Basic Blue 9 (CI-No. 52,015), Basic Blue 26 (CI-No. 44,045), Basic Blue 41 (CI-No. 11,154), Basic Blue 99 (CI-No. 56,059), HC Blue 15, HC Blue 16 (Bluequat-Bromid), Cationic Blue 347, Basic Brown 4 (CI-No. 21,010), Basic Brown 16 (CI-No. 12,250), Basic Brown 17 (CI-No. 12,251), Natural Brown 7 (CI-No. 75,500), Basic Green 1 (CI-No. 42,040), Basic Red 2 (CI-No. 50,240), Basic Red 22 (CI-No. 11,055), Basic Red 51, Basic Red 76 (CI-No. 12,245), Basic Violet 1 (CI-No. 42,535) , Basic Violet 2, Basic Violet 3 (CI-No.
42.555), Basic Violet 10 (CI-No. 45.170), Basic Violet 14 (CI-No. 42.510), Basic Yellow 57 (CI-No. 12.719), Basic Yellow 87 and Basic Orange 31, as well as color combinations mentioned.
One or more dyes from the group HC Blue 15, HC Blue 16 (Bluequat-Bromid), Cationic Blue 347, Basic Violet 2, Basic Red have been found to be particularly well suited.
51, Basic Red 76, Basic Yellow 57, Basic Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31 and Basic Brown 17.
An agent according to the invention is very particularly preferred, characterized in that it contains at least one dye with direct action (a) cationic from the group HC Blue 15, HC Blue 16, Basic Red 76, Basic Yellow 57, Basic Orange 31 and Basic Brown 17.
The dye (s) with direct action (a) cationic (s) is / are preferably present (s) in the coloring agent in a total amount ranging from 0.001 to 7% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 5.5% by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 3.4% by weight and particularly preferably 0.3 to 2% by weight, respectively based on the weight of the coloring agent .
Other preferred coloring agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, as direct action dye (a), at least one non-ionic direct action dye. This can for example be chosen from the group HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, HC Yellow 12, HC Orange 1, Orange 3 dispersed, HC Red 1, HC Red 3, HC Red 7 , HC Red 10, HC Red 11, HC Red 13, HC Red BN, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 11, HC Blue 12, HC Blue 15, Blue 3 dispersed, HC Violet 1, Violet 1 dispersed, Violet 4 dispersed, Black 9 dispersed, the
1.4- diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 2-amino-4-nitrophenol,
1.4- bis- (2-hydroxyethyl) -amino-2-mtrobenzene, the
3- mtro-4- (2-hydroxyethyl) ammophenol, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-4,6-dimtrophenol,
4- [(2-hydroxyethyl) ammo] -3-metro-1-methylbenzene, the
1- amino-4- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-5-chloro-2-mtrobenzene, 4-amino-3-nitrophenol, l- (2'-ureidoethyl) amino-4-mtrobenzene, 2 - [( 4-ammo-2-mtrophenyl) amino] benzoic acid, 4 - [(3-hydroxypropyl) amino] -3-nitrophenol,
4-nitro-ophenylenediamine, 6-metro-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxalme,
2- hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone, picramic acid and its salts, N, N'-bis- (2-hydroxyethyl) -2-nitro-p-phenylenediamine, 2-ammo-6-chloro-4 -nitrophenol, 4-ethylamino-3-mtrobenzoic acid and 2-chloro-6-ethylamino-4-mtrophenol.
Particularly preferred is a product according to the invention characterized in that it comprises at least one non-ionic direct action dye (a) from the group HC Red 1, HC Red 3, HC Red 7, HC Red 13 , HC Orange 1, HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 13, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 11, HC Blue 12, HC Blue 14, HC Violet 2, Violet 1 dispersed, 4 - [(3-hydroxypropyl) amino] -3- nitrophenol and 4-amino-3-nitrophenol.
The dye (s) with direct action (a) nonionic (s) is / are preferably present (s) in the coloring agent in a total amount ranging from 0.001 to 7% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 5.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 3.4% by weight and particularly preferably from 0.3 to 2% by weight, respectively based on the weight of the agent dye.
As preferred direct action dyes (a), it should be noted: Basic Red 76, HC Blue 16, Basic Yellow 57, 4-hydroxypropylamino-3-nitrophenol, HC Red 13, HC Red 3, HC Blue 12 , HC Orange 1, HC Blue 16 (Bluequat-Bromid), HC Yellow 2, N, N'-bis- (2-hydroxyethyl) -2-nitro-p-phenylenediamine, 4-amino-3-nitrophenol, Ext . D&C Violet 2, HC Violet 2, Basic Brown 17, Basic Red 76 and Basic Yellow 57, as well as mixtures thereof. More preferred are the dyes Basic Red 76, HC Blue 16, Basic Yellow 57, 4-hydroxypropylamino-3-nitrophenol, 4-amino-3-nitrophenol, HC Red 13, HC Violet 2, as well as mixtures thereof. this. Particularly preferably, HC Blue 16, Basic Violet 2, Basic Yellow 57, 4-hydroxypropylamino-3-nitrophenol, HC Red 13 and 4-amino-3-nitrophenol, as well as mixtures thereof, will be used.
In a preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention comprises a combination of several direct action dyes. The combination of a multitude of direct-acting dyes provides nuances across the color spectrum. In this context, the combination may as well relate to several purely anionic, purely cationic or purely nonionic dyes, as anionic, cationic and / or nonionic dyes combined with each other.
The dyes suitable for combining with each other must, for example, be chosen from HC Red 3, HC Blue 12, HC Orange 1, HC Blue 16 (Bluequat-Bromid), HC Yellow 2, N, N'-bis- (2-hydroxyethyl) -2-nitro-p-phenylenediamine, Ext. D&C Violet 2, Basic Brown 17, Basic Red 76, and Basic Yellow 57.
In general, for the combination of several direct action dyes, the data previously encountered concerning the quantities of anionic, cationic or nonionic direct action dyes to be used apply mutatis mutandis. In the context of mixtures of dyes, comprising direct-acting dyes, the quantities indicated for the total quantities of direct-acting dyes (a) to be used should preferably not be exceeded.
In addition, the agent according to the invention contains at least two surfactants, namely at least one amphoteric surfactant (b) and at least one alkylpolyglycoside (c). In this case, it turned out that it was in particular possible to obtain very intense color results when the agent according to the invention contained, in addition to a direct-acting dye, at least one amphoteric surfactant (b) , as well as at least one alkylpolyglycoside (c), where the proportion by weight of amphoteric surfactant - relative to the total weight of the agent - is less than the total content by weight of alkylpolyglycoside (c) or equal to the total content of weight of alkylpolyglycoside (c).
In general, the total amount of surfactants in the agent according to the invention preferably represents up to 50% by weight, more preferably 1 to 40% by weight, more preferably 5 to 30% by weight. weight, and most preferably 7 to 12%, respectively based on the weight of the agent.
In a preferred embodiment, the total content - relative to the weight of the agent - of amphoteric surfactants (b) and alkylpolyglycosides (c) represents a total of 1.0 to 25.0% by weight, preferably 1.5 to 20.0% by weight, more preferably 5.0 to 15% by weight, and particularly preferably 6.0 to 11.0% by weight.
As described above, particularly advantageous effects have been observed when the agent according to the invention comprises, by weight, less amphoteric surfactant (b) than alkylpolyglycoside (c) or as much amphoteric surfactant (b) than alkylpolyglycoside (c). The weight ratio between amphoteric surfactants and alkylpolyglycosides is preferably in a range from 1: 1 to 1:30, more preferably in a range from 1: 1 to 1:26, particularly preferably in a range from 1: 1 to 1:20 and in particular in a range from 1: 1 to 1:16. Insofar as the agent according to the invention comprises, relative to its weight, less amphoteric surfactants (b) than alkylpolyglycosides (c), the weight ratio between the amphoteric surfactants and the alkylpolyglycosides is preferably in a range range from 1: 1.1 to 1:30, more preferably in a range from 1: 1.5 to 1:26, particularly preferably in a range from 1: 2 to 1:20 and particular in a range from 1: 3 to 1:16. To calculate the weight ratio, the total amount of amphoteric surfactants and alkylpolyglycosides are used respectively.
In one embodiment, the total amount by weight of amphoteric surfactant (b) in the agent is equal to the total amount by weight of alkylpolyglycoside (c). In an alternative embodiment, the total amount by weight of amphoteric surfactant (b) in the agent is less than the total amount by weight of alkylpolyglycoside (c).
Relative to the total weight of the agent, the total amount of at least one amphoteric surfactant (b) is preferably 0.5 to 15.0% by weight, more preferably 0, 5 to 7.0% by weight, particularly preferably 1.0 to 6.0% by weight and in particular 1.3 to 4.0% by weight.
Relative to the total weight of the agent, the total amount of at least one alkylpolyglycoside (c) is preferably 0.5 to 15.0% by weight, more preferably 2.0 to 14.0% by weight, particularly preferably from 3.0 to 13.0% by weight, most preferably from 4.0 to 10.0% by weight, and in particular from 6.0 to 8 0.0% by weight.
In a preferred embodiment, the coloring agent according to the invention contains, relative to its weight, at least one amphoteric surfactant (b) in a total amount of 0.5 to 15.0% by weight and at least one alkylpolyglycoside (c) in a total amount of 0.5 to 15.0% by weight, provided that the agents according to the invention contain less amphoteric surfactant (b) than alkylpolyglycoside (c) or as much surfactant amphoteric (b) than alkylpolyglycoside (c), the weight ratio between the amphoteric surfactants and the alkylpolyglycosides preferably being in a range from 1 to 1:30, more preferably in a range from 1: 1, 1 to 1:20, particularly preferably in a range from 1: 2 to 1:10 and in particular in a range from 1: 4 to 1: 6. Weight ratios refer to the total amount of amphoteric surfactants and the total amount of alkylpolyglycosides.
In another preferred embodiment, the coloring agent according to the invention contains, relative to its weight, at least one amphoteric surfactant (b) in a total amount of 0.5 to 7.0% by weight and at least one alkylpolyglycoside (c) in a total amount of 2.0 to 14.0% by weight, provided that the agents according to the invention contain less amphoteric surfactant (b) than alkylpolyglycoside (c) or as many amphoteric surfactant (b) than alkylpolyglycoside (c), the weight ratio between the amphoteric surfactant and the alkylpolyglycoside preferably being in a range from 1 to 1:30, more preferably in a range from 1: 1.1 to 1:20, particularly preferably in a range from 1: 2 to 1:10 and in particular in a range from 1: 4 to 1: 6. Weight ratios refer to the total amount of amphoteric surfactants and the total amount of alkylpolyglycosides.
In another preferred embodiment, the coloring agent according to the invention contains, relative to its weight, at least one amphoteric surfactant (b) in a total amount of 1.0 to 6.0% by weight , preferably from 1.3 to 4.0% by weight and at least one alkylpolyglycoside (c) in a total amount of 3.0 to 13.0% by weight, preferably from 4.0 to 10.0% by weight, and very particularly preferably 6.0 to 8.0% by weight, provided that the agents according to the invention contain less amphoteric surfactant (b) than alkylpolyglycoside (c) or as much amphoteric surfactant ( b) than alkylpolyglycoside (c), the weight ratio between the amphoteric surfactant and the alkylpolyglycoside preferably being in a range from 1 to 1:30, more preferably in a range from 1: 1.1 at 1:20, particularly preferably in a range from 1: 2 to 1:10 and in particular in a range from 1: 4 to 1 6. Weight ratios refer to the total amount of amphoteric surfactants and the total amount of alkylpolyglycosides.
As explained above, the amphoteric surfactants (b) comprise, in the hydrophilic molecule part, at least one negatively charged group and at least one positively charged group. As examples of preferred amphoteric surfactants, there may be mentioned: betaines, N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, N-acyl-aminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates and
2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines with respectively 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group.
In a preferred embodiment, one will use, as amphoteric surfactant (b), at least one betaine, in particular at least one alkylbetaine. In a particularly preferred manner, it is an alkylamidoalkylbetaine of the following formula (I): [Chem.l]
where R is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical comprising 5 to
20, preferably 8 to 14 carbon atoms, and n is an integer from 0 to 10, in particular from 0 to 4.
In a preferred embodiment, R is a linear hydrocarbon radical, in particular a saturated linear hydrocarbon radical.
In a very particularly preferred embodiment, use will be made of an alkylamido-alkyl betaine of formula (I) with R = -Ci ₀ H ₂ i, -CnH ₂₃ or -Ci ₂ H ₂₅ and n = 0, 1 or 2, in particular an alkyl-amido-alkyl-betaine of formula (I) with R = -CnH ₂₃ and η = 1 as an amphoteric surfactant (b), also known under the name of cocamidopropyl betaine.
Preferably, the commercial aqueous preparation of the amphoteric surfactant (b) is substantially free of sodium chloride, that is to say that it comprises <0.5% by weight, preferably <0.4% by weight, particularly preferably <0.2% by weight of sodium chloride, each time relative to the total weight of the commercial aqueous preparation of the amphoteric surfactant (b).
Cocamidopropyl betaine of high purity and low in sodium chloride, having an active substance content of 35% by weight of cocamidopropyl betaine and a sodium chloride content of <0.5% by weight, is for example available under the trade name EMPIGEN® Total Active TC / U from the manufacturer Huntsman Corporation.
The alkylpolyglycosides (c) are nonionic surfactants which are characterized by the absence of electrical charges in the molecules.
The alkylpolyglycosides according to the invention are characterized in that they have a long-chain hydrophobic alkyl radical and a glycoside sugar as part of hydrophilic molecule. In a preferred embodiment, the alkylpolyglycoside comprises at least one linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical containing 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 5 to 25 carbon atoms and in particular 8 to 20 carbon atoms . Particular preference is given to the linear alkyl radical and more preference is given to the linear and saturated alkyl radical. The degree of polymerization of the glycoside sugar is preferably from 1 to 10, in particular from 1 to 5, more particularly from 1.1 to 2.
Particularly preferred alkylpolyglycosides are alkylpolyglucosides.
Particularly preferred alkylpolyglucosides include laurylpolyglucoside, decylpolyglucoside, octylpolyglucoside and coco-glucoside (cocoglucoside), in particular laurylpolyglucoside.
Preferably, the commercial aqueous preparation of the alkylpolyglycoside (c) is substantially free of sodium chloride, that is to say that it comprises <0.5% by weight, preferably <0.4 % by weight, particularly preferably <0.2% by weight of sodium chloride, each time relative to the total weight of the commercial aqueous preparation of the alkylpolyglycoside (c). The laurylpolyglycoside is for example available under the trade name PLANTACARE® from the manufacturer BASF SE.
In a particularly preferred embodiment, the coloring agent according to the invention is substantially free of sodium chloride, that is to say that it comprises <0.2% by weight, in particular <0 , 1% by weight, preferably <0.05% by weight, more preferably <0.02% by weight, most preferably from 0.005 to 0.015% by weight of sodium chloride, even more preferably between all 0% by weight of sodium chloride, respectively based on the total weight of the coloring agent.
In a particularly preferred embodiment, the invention comprises the agent for dyeing keratin fibers, in particular human hair, containing in a cosmetic support
at. at least one direct-acting dye,
b. at least one alkylamidoalkyl betaine of formula (I), preferably a cocamidopropyl betaine (CnH23) C (O) NH (C ₃ H ₆ ) N (NH2) 2CH ₂ C (O) O, and
vs. at least one alkylpolyglycoside, preferably a laurylglycoside, provided that the agent is substantially free from sodium chloride, characterized in that the total content, expressed by weight, of amphoteric surfactant (b) in l the agent - relative to the weight of the agent - is less than the total content expressed by weight in alkylpolyglycoside (c) or equal to the total content expressed by weight in alkylpolyglycoside (c).
The treatment of keratin fibers with agents containing (a) at least one direct-acting dye, (b) at least one amphoteric surfactant and (c) at least one nonionic surfactant, has resulted in particularly intense colorations. in attractive shades. Surprisingly, it was found on this occasion that the color proofing capacity could have been further optimized by using the combination of an amphoteric surfactant (b) and an alkylpolyglycoside (c) in a weight ratio of 1 to 1:30, more preferably in a range from 1: 1.1 to 1:20, particularly preferably in a range from 1: 2 to 1:10 and in particular in a range from 1: 4 at 1: 6. Particularly intense colorings were obtained when, in addition to the direct-acting agents (a), at least one amphoteric surfactant (b) from the group of alkylamidoalkylbetaines and at least one alkylpolyglycoside (c) from the group of alkylpolyglucosides had been used in the coloring agents .
In a particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is therefore characterized in that it contains (b) at least one amphoteric surfactant selected from the group of alkylamidoalkylbetaines of formula (I), preferably betaine cocamidopropyl ((Ci iH ₂₃ ) C (O) NH (C ₃ H ₆ ) N (NH ₂ ) ₂ CH ₂ C (O) O).
In addition, surfactant preparations (b) and (c) substantially free of sodium chloride have made it possible to obtain particularly good results. The coloring agent according to the invention particularly preferably comprises <0.2% by weight of NaCl, in particular <0.1% by weight of NaCl. It is preferable that the whole agent is free of NaCl.
The coloring agents may also contain active ingredients, adjuvants and additional additives in order to improve the coloring performance and to define other desirable properties of the product. Preferably, the coloring agents will be produced in the form of liquid preparations and another surfactant will be added to the products, where appropriate, these surfactants being designated as surfactants or emulsifiers depending on the field of application: they are preferably selected from surfactants without anionic, cationic, nonionic, ampholytic and amphoteric sulfates and from emulsifiers.
As indicated above, by cationic surfactants is meant surfactants (also called compounds with surfactant effect) respectively endowed with one or more positive charges. Cationic surfactants contain exclusively positive charges. In general, these surfactants are composed of a hydrophobic part and of a hydrophilic head group, the hydrophobic part generally consisting of a hydrocarbon skeleton (for example, consisting of one or two linear or branched alkyl chains), and the positive charge (s) is / are located in the hydrophilic head group. The cationic surfactants adsorb on the interfaces and aggregate in aqueous solution above the critical micellar concentration, to form positively charged micelles. [0080] [0081] [0082] [0083] [0084]
As examples of cationic surfactants suitable according to the invention, there may be mentioned:
- quaternary ammonium compounds which, as hydrophobic radicals, can carry one or two alkyl chains having a chain length of 8 to 28 C atoms,
- quaternary phosphonium salts substituted with one or more alkyl chains having a chain length of 8 to 28 C atoms, or
- tertiary sulfonium salts.
In addition, the cationic charge can also be, in the form of an onium structure, an element of a heterocyclic nucleus (for example, an imidazolium nucleus or a pyridinium nucleus). In addition to the functional unit carrying the cationic charge, the cationic surfactant may also comprise other uncharged functional groups, which is for example the case in the esterquats. Cationic surfactants of this type are, for example, physiologically acceptable salts of N, N, N-trimethyl-1-hexadecanaminium, in particular Ν, Ν, Ν-trimethyl-1-hexadecanaminium chloride, also sold under the Dehyquart A-CA appellation. Another suitable cationic surfactant can be a physiologically acceptable ammonium salt of dimethyldistearyldimethyl, particularly preferably ammonium chloride of dimethyldistearyl. Other cationic surfactants can be selected from the group of cationic imidazolium compounds.
As examples of preferred ampholytic surfactants, there may be mentioned: Nalkylglycine, N-alkyls of propionic acid, N-alkyls of aminobutyric acid, N-alkyls of aminodipropionic acid, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycine, N-alkyltaurine, N-alkylsarcosine, 2-alkylamines of propionic acid and acetic acids of alkylamine, the ampholytic surfactant being different from the amphoteric surfactant (b).
The ampholytic and / or cationic surfactant (s) are preferably present in a total amount of 0.0 to 5.0% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 2.5% by weight. weight, more preferably 0.4 to 1.8% by weight and particularly preferably 0.6 to 0.9% by weight - respectively based on the total weight of the agent.
Concerning anionic surfactants, the hydrophilic molecule part comprises a negatively charged hydrophilic head group. The negatively charged hydrophilic head group can be, for example, a carboxylic acid group or the salt of a carboxylic acid group, a sulfonic acid group or the salt of the sulfonic acid group, a sulfuric acid ester group or the salt of the latter, a phosphonic acid group or the salt of the phosphonic acid group, or an ester group of phosphonic acid or the salt thereof.
Generally, the cosmetic agent according to the invention comprises an aqueous support. In aqueous solution, the hydrophilic head groups of the anionic surfactant mentioned above - such as for example the carboxylic acid and the salts of carboxylic acids - are in equilibrium, their position influencing the pH value of the agent. Thus, if for example a fatty acid is used as an anionic surfactant, a less significant part of fatty acid in aqueous solution is present in the form of protonated fatty acid, while the major part of fatty acid in aqueous solution is deprotonated and thus transformed into a fatty acid salt. This is why the definition of an anionic surfactant also includes a surfactant with an acid group, still protonated. An anionic surfactant within the meaning of the present invention does not contain a cationic group, that is to say that amphoteric surfactants are not included in the definition of an anionic surfactant.
Consequently, the anionic surfactants are characterized by the presence of an anionic group made soluble in water, such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group comprising approximately 8 to 30 C atoms. In addition, the molecule may contain ether glycol or polyglycol groups, ester, ether and amide groups as well as hydroxyl groups.
As typical examples of anionic surfactants, mention may be made of alkylbenzenesulfonates, alkanesulfonates, oleinsulfonates, alkylethersulfonates, glycerine ether sulfonates, a-methylestersulfonates, sulfonated fatty acids, alkylsulfates, sulfates of fatty alcohol ether, glycerin ether sulfates, mixed hydroxy ether sulfates, monoglyceride (ether) sulfates, fatty acid amide sulfates (ether), mono- and dialkylsulfosuccinates, mono- and dialkylsulfosuccinamates, sulfonated triglycerides, amide soaps, ethercarboxylic acids and their salts, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, lactylates d acyl, acyl tartrates, acyl glutamates, acyl aspartates, alkyloligoglucoside sulphates, condensates of protein fatty acids (especially wheat-based plant products) and alkyl (ether ) Phosphates. Insofar as the anionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, these can have a conventional homologous distribution, preferably however a narrowed homologous distribution.
Anionic surfactants, in particular sulfated surfactants, that is to say anionic surfactants comprising at least one sulfate group (-OSO ₃ ), generally have a negative influence on the color test of dyes to direct action, in particular cationic direct action dyes. In a particularly preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention therefore comprises only small amounts of surfactants, which comprise a sulfate group, in particular alkyl sulfates and sulfates of alkyl ethers such as sulfates of fatty alcohol ether, glycerin ether sulfates, mixed hydroxy ether sulfates, monoglyceride (ether) sulfates, fatty acid amide sulfates (ether). The agent according to the invention preferably contains surfactants containing sulfate groups in a total amount of 0 to <0.2% by weight, preferably from 0 to <0.15% and in particular from 0 to <0, 1% by weight, based on the weight of the agent. It is most particularly preferred that the agent be free of surfactants containing sulfate groups. In another particularly preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention comprises only small amounts of anionic surfactants. The agent according to the invention preferably comprises anionic surfactants in a total amount preferably from 0 to <0.2% by weight, more preferably from 0 to <0.15% and in particular from 0 to <0 , 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the agent. It is very particularly preferred that the agent be free from anionic surfactants.
In another particularly preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention comprises, as surfactants, exclusively the at least one amphoteric surfactant (b) in combination with the at least one nonionic surfactant (c ).
Agents ready for application may contain other adjuvants and additives. The dyeing processes on keratin fibers generally take place in the weakly acidic to alkaline range, preferably in the weakly acidic to weakly alkaline medium. To spare the keratin fibers but also the skin as much as possible, it is however not desirable to adjust the pH to a value that is too high.
In principle, the pH value of the agent can be in a range from pH 2 to pH 11, preferably in a range from pH 3 to pH 8. In another particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is therefore characterized in that it has a pH value in a range from 2 to 11, preferably lying between 3 and pH 8, particularly preferably between 3.5 and 7.0, so more preferred between 4.0 and 6.5 and especially between 4.5 and 5.5.
The pH measurement can for example be carried out using a glass electrode, which is generally in the form of a measuring chain. The pH values in the present invention are values measured at a temperature of 22 ° C. The alkalinizing agents which can be used according to the invention to adjust the preferred pH can be selected from the group consisting of ammonia, alkanolamines, basic amino acids, as well as inorganic alkalinizing agents such as hydroxides of alkali metals (alkaline earth), metasilicates of alkali metal (alkaline earth), phosphates of alkali metals (alkaline earth) and hydrogen phosphates of alkali metals (alkaline earth). The preferred inorganic alkalinizing agents are magnesium carbonate, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, sodium silicate and sodium metasilicate. The organic alkalinizing agents which can be used according to the invention are preferably selected from monoethanolamine, 2-ammo-2-methylpropanol and triethanolamine. The basic amino acids which can be used as an alkalinizing agent according to the invention are preferably selected from the group consisting of arginine, lysine, omithine and histidine, in particular preferably arginine . However, it has been found, in the context of the analyzes carried out during the present invention, that the preferred agents according to the invention are further characterized in that they additionally contain an organic alkalinizing agent. An embodiment of the first object of the invention is characterized in that the agent contains, in addition, at least one alkalizing agent selected from the group consisting of ammonia, alkanolamines and basic amino acids, particularly ammonia, monoethanolamine and arginine or its compatible salts.
The acidifying agents which can be used to adjust the pH value are organic acids, such as citric acid, acetic acid, ascorbic acid, benzoic acid, lactic acid, malic acid. and maleic acid, as well as mineral acids, such as hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid or phosphoric acid. It has also been found to be advantageous for the coloring agents to contain at least one stabilizing agent or one complexing agent. Particularly preferred stabilizers are phenacetin, alkali benzoate (sodium benzoate) and salicylic acid. All the complexing agents of the prior art can also be used. Preferred complexing agents according to the invention are nitrogen-containing polycarboxylic acids, in particular EDTA and EDDS, and phosphonates, preferably 1-hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonates (HEDP) and / or ethylenediaminetetramethylenephosphonates (EDTMP) and / or diethylenetriammepentaméhtylènephosphonates (DTPMP) or its sodium salts.
In addition, the products according to the invention may contain other active ingredients, adjuvants and additives, such as, for example, nonionic polymers, such as, for example, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, polyethylene glycols and polysiloxane; silicones such as volatile or non-volatile polyalkylsiloxanes, straight chain, branched or cyclic, crosslinked or non-crosslinked (such as dimethicone or cyclomethicone), polyarylsiloxane and / or polyalkylarylsiloxane, in particular polysiloxane comprising organo-functional groups, such as substituted or unsubstituted amines (amodimethicone), carboxyl, alkoxy and / or hydroxyl groups (dimethiconecopolyols), linear block copolymers a) polysiloxane b) polyoxyalkylene, grafted silicone polymers; cationic polymers such as quaternary cellulose ether, polysiloxane having quaternary groups, polymers of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, copolymers of acrylamide dimethyldiallylammomum chloride, with copolymers of dimethylammoethylmethacrylatevinylpyrrolidmone quaternary by diethyl sulfate, copolymers vinylpyrrolidinonimidazolinium methochloride and quaternary polyvinyl alcohol; zwitterionic and amphoteric polymers; anionic polymers such as, for example, polyacrylic acids or crosslinked polyacrylic acids; fats such as, for example, C ₈ -C ₃₀ fatty alcohols, hydrocarbons or natural oils and fats; hair conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, such as, for example, lecithin and cephalin; scented oils, dimethyl isosorbide and cyclodextrin; active ingredients improving the fibrous structure, in particular the mono-, di- and oligosaccharides such as, for example, glucose, galactose, fructose, fruit sugar, or lactose; dyes for coloring the product; anti-dandruff active ingredients such as piroctone olamine, zinc omadine and climbazol; amino acids and oligopeptides; protein hydrolysates of animal and / or vegetable origin, as well as in the form of fatty acid condensation products or, where appropriate, their anionically or cationically modified derivatives; photoprotectors and UV blockers; active ingredients such as panthenol, pantothenic acid, pantolactone, allantoin, pyrrolidinone carboxylic acids and their salts, thus bisabolol; polyphenols, in particular hydroxycinnamic acids, 6,7-dihydroxycoumarines, hydroxybenzoic acids, catechin, tannins, leucoanthocyanidin, ranthocyanidin, flavanones, flavones and flavonols; ceramides or pseudoceramides; vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors; plant extracts; fats and waxes such as fatty alcohols, beeswax, montane wax and paraffin; bulking or penetrating agents such as glycerin, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, bicarbonates, guanidine, ureas as well as primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates; opacifying agents, such as latex, copolymers of styrene and PVP, and styrene and acrylamide; pearlescent agents such as ethylene glycol monostearate and distearate or PEG-3 distearate and pigments.
Those skilled in the art will select these other substances according to the desired properties of the agent. With regard to other optional components as well as the quantities used of these components, specific reference is made to the corresponding manuals known to those skilled in the art. The additional active ingredients and excipients are used in the agents according to the invention preferably in respective amounts ranging from 0.0001 to 25% by weight, in particular from 0.0005 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the respective agent.
The agents according to the invention contain direct-acting dyes in combination with at least one amphoteric surfactant (b) and at least one nonionic surfactant (c) in a cosmetic support. This cosmetic support is preferably aqueous, alcoholic or hydroalcoholic. For the purposes of hair treatment, these supports are, for example, creams, emulsions, gels or also foaming solutions containing surfactants, such as shampoos, foaming aerosols or other preparations suitable for application on the hair. Shampoos (coloring shampoos) are particularly suitable.
Within the meaning of the invention, an aqueous support contains at least 40% by weight, in particular at least 50% by weight of water. By hydroalcoholic supports is meant, within the meaning of the present invention, aqueous compositions, containing 3 to 70% by weight of a C ₁ -C ₄ alcohol, in particular ethanol or isopropanol. The agents according to the invention can also contain other organic solvents, such as, for example, 4-methoxybutanol, ethyldiglycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, n-propanol, n-butanol, 1,3-butylene glycol, glycerin, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and diethylene glycolmono-n-butyl ether. Preferred in this regard are all water-soluble organic solvents. The preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, in addition, a non-aqueous solvent where the preferred agents according to the invention contain this non-aqueous solvent in a concentration of 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably in a concentration of 1 to 20% by weight, very particularly preferably in a concentration of 2 to 10% by weight, respectively based on the total weight of the agent.
In addition, the agent can also also contain at least one penetration enhancer. Typically, penetration enhancers can also act as a solvent. By way of example for suitable penetration enhancers, mention may here be made of propylene carbonate, benzyl alcohol, 2-phenoxyethane-1-ol and / or benzyl alcohol.
In another very particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains, in addition, at least one penetration enhancer from the group consisting of propylene carbonate, benzyl alcohol , 2-phenoxyethane-1-ol and / or benzyl alcohol.
It is very particularly advantageous that the coloring agent according to the invention contains at least one penetration enhancer from the group consisting of benzyl alcohol, 2-phenoxyethane-1-ol and / or benzyl alcohol . The use of one or more solvents from this group makes it possible to reinforce the color test of the acid dye. In addition, it has been found that the authenticity characteristics of the colors permitted by the agent according to the invention are improved.
If the keratin fibers are colored with an agent containing at least one of the two aromatic alcohols, after coloring with acid dyes with direct action, colorings are obtained which are distinguished by very good properties gray hair cover. These colors also exhibit remarkable resistance to washing.
The agent according to the invention may contain the solvent (s) preferably in determined total amounts, in ranges ranging from 0 to 20.0% by weight, preferably from 1.0 to 17, 0% by weight, more preferably 5.0 to 14.0% by weight and very particularly preferably 8.5 to 12.5% by weight, respectively based on the weight of the coloring agent according to invention.
As indicated above, the agent is preferably prepared in the form of a liquid preparation. It has also been found advantageous that the agents contain at least one thickening agent. With regard to these thickening agents, there are no principle restrictions to report. Both organic and purely inorganic thickeners can be used.
Suitable thickening agents are synthetic anionic polymers; synthetic cationic polymers; thickeners of natural origin, such as guar gum, scleroglucan or nonionic xanthan gum, gum arabic, ghatti gum, karaya gum, tragacanth gum, carrageenan gum, agar-agar, locust bean gum, pectin, alginates, starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, as well as cellulose derivatives, such as methylcellulose, carboxyalkylcelluloses and hydroxyalkylcelluloses; fully synthetic, nonionic polymers, such as polyvinyl alcohol or polyvinylpyrrolidone; as well as inorganic thickening agents, in particular layered silicates such as for example bentonite, particularly smectites such as montmorillonite or rhectorite.
Particular preference is given to direct acting associative thickeners (associative thickeners) such as hydrophobic modified polyacrylates (HASE), hydrophobic modified cellulose ethers (HMHEC), hydrophobic modified polyacrylamides (HMPAM), polyether hydrophobic modified (HMPE) as well as associative polyurethane thickeners. Cellulose ethers hydrophobically modified are particularly preferred, especially C ₅ -C ₂ alkyl hydroxyethylcellulose 5, preferably hydroxyethylcellulose alkyl _Cio-2o C, e.g. hydroxyethylcellulose ₄ alkyl, hydroxyethylcellulose ₅ alkyl, the alkyl hydroxyethylcellulose -C ₆ alkyl hydroxyethylcellulose Cn, the alkyl hydroxyethylcellulose C _[8, as well as mixtures thereof.
Particular preference is given to cetylhydroxyethylcellulose, available under the trade name Natrosol ™ Plus 330 CS from the company Ashland.
At least one thickening agent is preferably present in a total amount of 0.1 to 5% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 3% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 2 % by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 1.5% by weight and in particular from 0.5 to 1% by weight, respectively based on the weight of the agent.
The product according to the invention may also contain anionic polymeric thickening agents. Suitable compounds are for example selected from crosslinked or non-crosslinked copolymers which contain at least two different monomers from the group consisting of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, alkyl esters of Ci-C ₆ of acrylic acid and / or alkyl esters of Ci-C ₆ methacrylic acid. Particularly preferred anionic copolymers are the copolymers of acrylic acid, of methacrylic acid or of their C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl esters, which are marketed under the name INCI "Acrylates Copolymer". The combination of methacrylic acid and ethyl acrylate, as well as cross-linked multifunctional monomers, where appropriate, is particularly preferred. As such, Aculyn® 33 or 33A, sold by the company Rohm & Haas, is for example a preferred commercial product. Another preferred anionic polymer thickening agent is Polyacrylate-1 crosspolymer, a copolymer consisting of at least one alkyl ester Ci-C ₆ acrylic acid or methacrylic acid, Cl-4-dialkylamino-Cl-6- alkyl, allyl ether PEG / PPG-30/5, C10-30 alkyl ether methacrylate PEG20-25 and C ₂ alkyl hydroxyl methacrylate. ₆ , crosslinked with ethylene glycol dimethacrylate.
In addition, the agent according to the invention may contain, as film-forming agent, one or more cationic compounds from the group consisting of Polyquaternium-1, Polyquatemium-2, Polyquaternium-3, Polyquatemium-4, Polyquaternium- 5, Polyquatemium-6, Polyquaternium-7, Polyquatemium-8, Polyquaternium-9, Polyquatemium-10, Polyquaternium-11, Polyquatemium-14, Polyquaternium-16, Polyquatemium-17, Polyquaternium-18, Polyquatemium-22, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquatemium-27, Polyquaternium-28, Polyquatemium-32, Polyquaternium-33, Polyquatemium-37, Polyquaternium-39, Polyquatemium-44, Polyquaternium-46, Polyquatemium-53, Polyquaternium-55, Polyquatemium-64, Polyquaternium-67, Polyquatemium- 68, Polyquaternium-69 and / or Polyquatemium-86.
Polyquatemium-37 should be emphasized as a particularly preferred film-forming agent. This improves the properties of the agent and the quality of the coloration obtained.
At least one cationic Polyquatemium compound is present, preferably in a total amount of 0.1 to 5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.2 to 3% by weight, more preferably 0.3 to 2% by weight and in particular in an amount of 0.5 to 1% by weight, respectively based on the weight of the agent.
Use is preferably made in combination of at least one associative thickener, in particular a hydrophobic modified cellulose ether, and at least one polyquatemium compound. Particularly good color results have been obtained by combining cetylhydroxyethylcellulose and Polyquatemium-37.
Furthermore, the agents may preferably contain hair conditioning compounds. The hair conditioning compounds have, for example due to cationic or cationizable groups, in particular protonated amine groups or quaternary ammonium groups, a substantivity with respect to human hair. Cationic and / or amphoteric polymers are particularly preferred hair conditioning compounds.
The agent according to the invention can be manufactured in several forms. It can therefore be used in the form of a gel, emulsion, solution or even in the form of coloring foam. Gels (shampoos) are an ideal and comfortable mode of application for users and are therefore preferred. The gel can be applied directly to the keratin fibers to be colored and the application process can be integrated without difficulty into the daily hygiene of the user. The conditioning of the agent as a shampoo (coloring shampoo) is therefore particularly preferred.
A first object of the present invention is therefore also an agent for modifying keratin fibers, in particular human hair, containing in a cosmetic support, in the form of a shampoo,
at. at least one direct-acting dye,
b. at least one amphoteric surfactant, in particular at least one alkyl betaine,
vs. at least one alkylpolyglycoside, in particular at least one alkylpoly-glucoside,
d. water, and
e. at least one thickening agent, preferably on condition that the agent is substantially free of sodium chloride, [0120] characterized in that the total content, expressed by weight, of amphoteric surfactant (b) in the agent - relative to the total weight of the agent - is less than the total content expressed by weight in alkylpolyglycoside (c) or equal to the total content expressed by weight in alkylpolyglycoside (c).
Another object of the present invention is also an agent for modifying keratin fibers, especially human hair, containing in a cosmetic support, in the form of a shampoo,
at. at least one direct-acting dye,
b. at least one amphoteric surfactant, in particular at least one alkyl betaine,
vs. at least one alkylpolyglycoside, in particular at least one alkylpolyglucoside,
d. some water,
e. at least one thickening agent, and
f. at least one film-forming agent, preferably provided that the agent is substantially free from sodium chloride, [0123] characterized in that the total content, expressed by weight, of amphoteric surfactant (b) in the agent - relative to the total weight of the agent - is less than the total content expressed by weight in alkylpolyglycoside (c) or equal to the total content expressed by weight in alkylpolyglycoside (c).
The agents according to the invention are formulated as one-component agents and are applied in a corresponding manner, that is to say that they are taken directly from a packaging container in which they have were made, and applied to keratin fibers.
Another object of the present invention is the use of an agent containing, in a cosmetic support,
at. at least one direct-acting dye,
b. at least one amphoteric surfactant, in particular at least one alkyl betaine, and
vs. at least one alkylpolyglycoside, in particular at least one alkylpolyglucoside, [0126] characterized in that the total content, expressed by weight, of amphoteric surfactant (b) in the agent - relative to the total weight of the agent - is less than the total content expressed by weight in alkylpolyglycoside (c) or equal to the total content expressed by weight in alkylpolyglycoside (c) for [0127] - the increase in the chromaticity of the dyes on the keratin fiber and / or [0128] - l increase in the color test of the dyes on the keratin fiber and / or [0129] - the increase in the intensity of the color of the dyes on the keratin fiber [0130] during the coloring of keratin fibers, in particular of human hair.
Regarding other preferred embodiments of the use, what has been explained on the agents applies mutatis mutandis.
The agents of the subject of the invention can be used in processes for coloring human hair.
Another object of the present invention is therefore a method for [0134] - increasing the chromaticity of the dyes on the keratin fiber and / or [0135] - increasing the color test of the dyes on keratin fiber and / or [0136] - increasing the intensity of the color of the dyes on the keratin fiber.
[0137] when dyeing human hair, in which an agent, containing in a cosmetic carrier
at. at least one direct-acting dye,
b. at least one amphoteric surfactant, in particular at least one alkyl betaine, and
vs. at least one alkylpolyglycoside, in particular at least one alkylpolyglucoside, [0138] characterized in that the total content, expressed by weight, of amphoteric surfactant (b) in the agent - relative to the total weight of the agent - is less than the total content expressed by weight in alkylpolyglycoside (c) or equal to the total content expressed by weight in alkylpolyglycoside (c), [0139] is applied to the keratin fibers.
Regarding other preferred embodiments of the methods, what has been explained on the agents and the uses applies mutatis mutandis.
In summary, the present invention is characterized in particular by the following points:
Agent for dyeing keratin fibers, in particular human hair, containing, in a cosmetic support,
at. at least one direct-acting dye,
b. at least one amphoteric surfactant, in particular at least one alkyl betaine, and
vs. at least one alkylpolyglycoside, in particular at least one alkylpolyglucoside, [0143] characterized in that the total content, expressed by weight, of amphoteric surfactant (b) in the agent - relative to the total weight of the agent - is lower the total content expressed by weight of alkylpolyglycoside (c) or equal to the total content expressed by weight of alkylpolyglycoside (c).
Agent as previously described, in which the total content - relative to the total weight of the agent - of amphoteric surfactant (b) and alkylpolyglycoside (c) amounts in total from 1.0 to 25.0% by weight, preferably 1.5 to 20.0% by weight.
Agent as previously described, the agent - relative to its total weight containing at least one amphoteric surfactant (b) in a total amount of 0.5 to 15.0% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 7.0% by weight, particularly preferably from 1.0 to 6.0% by weight and in particular from 1.3 to 4.0% by weight.
Agent as previously described, the agent - relative to its total weight containing at least one alkylpolyglycoside (c) in a total amount of 0.5 to 15.0% by weight, preferably 2.0 to 14 0.0% by weight, particularly preferably from 3.0 to 13.0% by weight, most preferably from 4.0 to 10.0% by weight, and in particular from 6.0 to 8.0 % in weight.
Agent as previously described, in which the amphoteric surfactant (b) is an alkylbetaine, preferably an alkylamidoalkylbetaine, in particular a C ₈ . ₁₄ alky lamido- (C ₂₆₎ - alkyl betaine [0148] Agent as described above, wherein the alkylpolyglycoside (c) is an alkyl polyglycoside, preferably an alkyl polyglycoside with an alkyl radical containing 10 to 20 carbon atoms.
Agent as previously described, in which the amphoteric surfactant (b) is an alkylamidoalkylbetaine, preferably a cocamidopropyl betaine ((CnH ₂₃ ) C (O) NH (C ₃ H ₆ ) N (NH ₂ ) ₂ CH ₂ C (O) O), and the alkylpolyglycoside (c) is an alkylpolyglucoside, preferably a laurylglucoside.
Agent as previously described, in which the at least one direct action dye is chosen from a cationic direct action dye, an anionic direct action dye or a nonionic direct action dye or mixtures thereof.
Agent as previously described, in which the at least one direct-acting dye is chosen from HC Blue 16, Basic Violet 2, Basic Yellow 57, 4-hydroxypropylamino-3-nitrophenol, HC Red 13 and 4- ammo-3-nitrophenol, as well as mixtures thereof.
Agent as previously described, the agent having a pH value ranging from 2 to
11, preferably from 3 to 8, particularly preferably from 3.5 to 7.0, more preferably from 4.0 to 6.5 and very particularly from 4.5 to 5.5, measured respectively at 22 ° C.
Agent as previously described, the agent further containing <0.2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the agent, of surfactants comprising a sulfate group (-OSO ₃ ).
Agent as previously described, the agent comprising <0.2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the agent, of anionic surfactants.
Agent as previously described, the agent also containing at least one associative thickener, preferably a nonionic associative thickener, in particular cetylhydroxyethylcellulose, preferably in an amount - relative to the total weight of the agent - of 0 , 1 to 5% by weight.
Agent as previously described, the agent also containing at least one film-forming agent, in particular Polyquaternium-37, preferably in an amount - relative to the total weight of the agent - of 0.1 to 5% by weight.
Agent as previously described, the agent containing at least one nonionic socially active thickener as27, in particular cetylhydroxyethylcellulose and at least one cationic polymer, in particular polyquaternium-37, in combination with one another. Agent for coloring keratin fibers, in particular human hair, containing, in a cosmetic support, in the form of a shampoo,
at. at least one direct-acting dye,
b. at least one amphoteric surfactant, in particular at least one alkyl betaine,
vs. at least one alkylpolyglycoside, in particular at least one alkylpoly-glucoside,
d. water, and
e. at least one thickening agent, preferably provided that the agent is substantially free from sodium chloride, the total content, expressed by weight, of amphoteric surfactant (b) in the agent relative to the total weight of the agent - being less than the total content expressed by weight in alkylpolyglycoside (c) or equal to the total content expressed by weight in alkylpolyglycoside (c).
Agent for dyeing keratin fibers, in particular human hair, containing, in a cosmetic support, in the form of a shampoo,
at. at least one direct-acting dye,
b. at least one amphoteric surfactant, in particular at least one alkyl betaine,
vs. at least one alkylpolyglycoside, in particular at least one alkylpolyglucoside,
d. some water,
e. at least one thickening agent, and
f. at least one film-forming agent, preferably on condition that the agent is substantially free of sodium chloride, the total content, expressed by weight, of amphoteric surfactant (b) in the agent relative to the total weight of the agent - being less than the total content expressed by weight in alkylpolyglycoside (c) or equal to the total content expressed by weight in alkylpolyglycoside (c).
[0164] Use of an agent, containing in a cosmetic support
at. at least one direct-acting dye,
b. at least one amphoteric surfactant, in particular at least one alkyl betaine, and
vs. at least one alkylpolyglycoside, in particular at least one alkylpolyglucoside, [0165] the total content, expressed by weight, of amphoteric surfactant (b) in the agent - by [0166] [0167] [0168] [0169] [0170] Relative to the total weight of the agent - being less than the total content expressed by weight in alkylpolyglycoside (c) or equal to the total content expressed by weight in alkylpolyglycoside (c), for
- increasing the chromaticity of the dyes on the keratin fiber and / or
- the increase in the color test of the dyes on the keratin fiber and / or
- increasing the intensity of the color of the dyes on the keratin fiber.
when coloring keratin fibers, in particular human hair.
Process for
- increasing the chromaticity of the dyes on the keratin fiber and / or
- the increase in the color test of the dyes on the keratin fiber and / or
- increasing the intensity of the color of the dyes on the keratin fiber.
when dyeing keratin fibers, especially human hair, in which an agent, containing in a cosmetic support
at. at least one direct-acting dye,
b. at least one amphoteric surfactant, in particular at least one alkyl betaine, and
vs. at least one alkylpolyglycoside, in particular at least one alkylpolyglucoside, the total content, expressed by weight, of amphoteric surfactant (b) in the agent relative to the total weight of the agent - being less than the total content expressed by weight of alkylpolyglycoside (c) or equal to the total content expressed by weight of alkylpolyglycoside (c), is applied to the keratin fibers.
The coloring agents according to the invention are characterized by good foaming properties comparable to conventional shampoos. Foaming degrees of more than 2 cm can be achieved (rapid foaming test in beaker).
The coloring agents according to the invention make it possible to formulate coloring shampoos comprising simultaneously anionic, cationic and nonionic direct action dyes and to use all the coloring powers of each dye.
The use of the specific combination composed of amphoteric surfactants (b) and alkylpolyglycoside (c), in which the total content, expressed by weight, of amphoteric surfactant (b) in the agent - relative to the total weight of l agent - is less than the total content expressed by weight in alkylpolyglycoside (c) or equal to the total content expressed by weight in alkylpolyglycoside (c), allows significant improvements in color, chromaticity and / or color intensity compared to the use of conventional anionic, cationic or amphoteric surfactants. Surfactant coloring agents, the color test of which is comparable to that of aqueous coloring agents, can thus be prepared.
The agent can comprise a comparatively high proportion of amphoteric surfactants (b) and alkylpolyglycosides (c). These also act as emulsifiers for dyes, so that their solubility is increased, so that the content of organic solvents in the coloring agent can be kept at a comparatively low level.
Examples [0176] The formulations summarized in Table 1 were produced. The quantities indicated are expressed, unless otherwise indicated, respectively as a percentage by weight relative to the total weight. These indications refer to the content of active substance.
Table 1: Compositions of the control formulations examined VI, V2 and V3, as well as formulations according to the invention El and El [Tables 1]
Formulation VI V2 V3 El E2 Water 99.70 94.70 94.45 93.55 91.92 (2) sodium laureth sulfate5 Cocamidopropyl betaine 5 3 1.52 Laurylpolyglycoside (ex Plantacare®) 3 6.18 Direct acting dye (see below) 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.30 NaCl - - 0.25 0.15 0.08 PH [4,35,0] [4,35,0] [4,35,0] [4,35,0] [4,35,0]
The direct action dyes summarized in Table 2 were used as direct action dyes.
Table 2: Direct-acting dyes [Tables2]
Colorant designation Abbreviated designation used later HC Blue 16 AT Basic Violet 2 B Basic Yellow 57 VS 4-hydroxypropylamino-3-nitrophenol D HC Red 13 E 4-Amino- 3 -nitrophenol F
Color test, color intensity and chromaticity [0181] Before the coloring process, locks of hair (Kerling 10-0) were measured by colorimetry (Spectralflash SF 450 colorimetry device from Datacolor). The ready-to-apply coloring formulations produced as described above were then applied to the locks of hair and rested there for 30 minutes at 20 ° C. The locks of hair were then rinsed thoroughly and dried with an air flow. After coloring and drying, the locks of hair were again measured by colorimetry. According to the following formula, the color difference (ΔΕ) between non-colored locks and colored locks or locks colored with the aqueous solution of the dye and locks colored with the surface-active coloring agent, was calculated:
[0182] [Math. 1] _ L _n yz _j_ ( _av _ _an y2 _ | _ _ bn) ² ' ^with [0183] The colorimetric values Lv, av, bv before coloring, [0184] the colorimetric values Ln, an, bn after coloring.
Similarly, the difference in color (ΔΕ) between the locks colored with the aqueous solution of the dye and the locks colored with the surface-active coloring agent was calculated:
[0186] [Math. 2] - Lt) ² + (aw - at) ² + (bw - bt) ² ' ^with [0187] Lw, aw, bw after coloring with the aqueous solution, [0188] Lt, at, bt after coloring with the surfactant coloring agent.
The chromaticity (Chroma c, direction of the color) is calculated from the measurement variables a (CIE) and b (CIE) according to the following formula:
[Math. 3] _c _ ₊ ^ 2.
The measured and calculated data are summarized in Table 3.
Table 3 Results of the colorimetric tests with respect to the control formulations VI, V2 and V3, as well as to the formulations according to the invention El and E2 [Tables3]
Colorant Formulation The(ICE) a (CIE) b (ICsE) Chromavs AE(vs. Kerling10-0) AE (vs. aqueous coloring agent) AT VI 33,02 75.68AT V2 68.35 -4.63 7.97 9.21 15,41 62.70 AT V3 26.59 6.83 -34.91 35.58 74.47 7.05 AT El 23.97 9.84 -35.07 36.43 76.69 4.41 AT E2 32.04 1.69 -35.19 35.24 70.82 14.08 B VI 34.33 65.98B V2 47.66 41.49 -11.86 43,15 59.17 25.95 B V3 25.96 38.60 -4.18 38.82 68.03 4.97 B El 27.28 45.38 -9.92 46.46 73.15 13.85 B E2 25.90 37.94 -3.27 38.08 67.40 4.04 VS VI 71,16 53.31VS V2 75.59 1.71 22.96 23,03 4.49 49,00 VS V3 70.82 6.25 62.01 62.33 43.85 11.23 VS El 70.58 8.15 66.93 67.43 48.96 6.87 VS E2 71.94 7.46 63.72 64.16 45.53 9.68 D VI 52.65 58.1D V2 43.5 44.8 28.26 53.02 56.40 3.19
3 6 D V3 44.64 44.25 27.84 52.28 55.18 4.30 D El 44.41 44.65 27,90 52.65 55.65 4.06 D E2 45.07 45.59 27.72 53.36 55.98 4.85 E VI 17.91 52.14E V2 47.40 15.72 3.28 16,06 37.15 15.79 E V3 38.91 17.51 0.98 17.54 45.81 6.89 E El 38.43 18.19 0.53 18,19 46,64 6.36 E E2 45.75 16.85 0.14 16,85 40,32 13.70 F VI 65.63 58.4F V2 56.01 34.60 51.18 61.78 51.36 8.66 F V3 53.34 40.08 54.91 67.98 58.43 4.92 F El 57.77 34.46 52.21 62.56 51.22 10,10 F E2 54.56 40.71 56.14 69.35 59.13 6.62
The greater the difference in color ΔΕ (vs. Kerling 10-0) between non-colored locks and colored locks, the more intense the color test resulting from the coloring. During the application of formulations E1 and E2, compared respectively to the control formulations VI to V3, a color result of an intensity greater than the average was obtained for all of the dyes tested. The formulation El obtains in particular particularly good results which have not been achieved, for the dyes A, B, C, D and E, by any of the surfactant formulations examined. Only for dye F, the formulation E2 obtains better values.
The greatest possible chromaticity (that is to say, the greatest possible value for
Chroma c) demonstrates a great intensity of color. As indicated by the values calculated in Table 3, the application of formulations E1 and E2, compared respectively to the control formulations VI to V3, obtains the highest Chroma c values for all of the dyes tested. Again, the combination of the dye E with the formulation E2 proves to be particularly advantageous, while for the other dyes, better values are obtained with the formulation El.
The measurement variable ΔΕ (vs. aqueous coloring agent) describes the fidelity of the colors of the coloring from a surfactant solution relative to the coloring only with an aqueous solution. Low values demonstrate a color test from a surfactant solution similar to that obtained from an aqueous solution. Compared to the color test obtained from an aqueous solution, the formulations E1 and E2 obtain values which are mainly good to very good.
The measurement value L (CIE) is a benchmark for the clarity or intensity of a coloration. Low measurement values represent high intensity. Consequently, the lower the L value, the more intense the coloration. Compared with formulations VI to V3, systematically good to very good L values could be measured for formulations El and E2. In particular for the dyes A, C, D and E, the formulation El made it possible to obtain a low value L, while for the dyes B and E, better values could be obtained with the formulation E2.
The formulations E1 and E2 according to the invention have on the whole, compared to conventional formulations, good properties above average with regard to the color test, the intensity of the color and the chromaticity.
The following formulations are other examples:
(Quantities expressed as% by weight, data "as is") [Tables4]
Formulation E3 E4 E5 E6 Water 75.43 75.55 75.63 75.75 Direct acting dye 0,50a 0,38b 0,30c 0,18d Cocamidopropyl betaine (active content 37% by weight) 4.00 4.00 4.00 4.00 Laurylpolyglucoside (active content 51% by weight) 12,00 12,00 12,00 12,00 Associative thickener (cétylliydroxyéthylcellulose,NatrosolTM Plus 33 CS) 1.40 1.40 1.40 1.40 Film-forming agents (Polyquaternium-37 or Polyquaternium-10) 0.60 0.60 0.60 0.60 1,2-propanediol 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 Sodium benzoate 0.40 0.40 0.40 0.40 NaOH (50% by weight) 0.02 0.02 0.02 0.02 D-Panthenol (75% by weight) 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 Perfume 0.90 0.90 0.90 0.90 Succinic acid 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 Tri-magnesium citrate 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 Citric acid monohydrate 0.40 0.40 0.40 0.40 Castor oil (hydrogenated, 40 EO) 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 PEG-7-glyceryl cocoate 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25
“HC Red 3 [0201] ^b Mixture of N, N'-bis- (2-hydroxyethyl) -2-metro-p-phenylenediamine and HC Blue 12 dyes [0202] ^c Mixture of HC Red 3 and HC dyes Orange 1 [0203] ^d Mixture of dyes HC Blue 12, HC Blue 16 (Bluequat-Bromid), HC Yellow 2,
N, N'-bis- (2-hydroxyethyl) -2-nitro-p-phenylenediamine, Ext. D&C Violet 2, Basic Brown 17, Basic Red 76 and Basic Yellow 57.

权利要求:
Claims (1)
[1" id="c-fr-0001]
Agent for dyeing keratin fibers, in particular human hair, containing, in a cosmetic carrier (a) at least one direct-acting dye, (b) at least one amphoteric surfactant, in particular at least one alkyl betaine, and (c) at least one alkylpolyglycoside, characterized in that the total content, expressed by weight, of amphoteric surfactant (b) in the agent - relative to the total weight of the agent - is less than the total content expressed by weight of alkylpolyglycoside ( c) or equal to the total content expressed by weight of alkylpolyglycoside (c). Agent according to claim 1, characterized in that the total content of amphoteric surfactant (b) and alkylpolyglycoside (c) amounts to a total of 1.0 to 25.0% by weight, preferably 1.5 to 20.0 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the agent.
Agent according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that it contains at least one amphoteric surfactant (b) in a total amount of 0.5 to 15.0% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 7.0% by weight, more preferably 1.0 to 6.0% by weight and in particular 1.3 to 4.0% by weight, respectively based on the weight of the agent.
Agent according to one of Claims 1 to 3, characterized in that it contains at least one alkylpolyglycoside (c) in a total amount of 0.5 to 15.0% by weight, preferably from 2.0 to 14, 0% by weight, more preferably from 3.0 to 13.0% by weight, most preferably from 4.0 to 10.0% by weight, and in particular from 6.0 to 8.0% by weight, respectively related to the weight of the agent.
Agent according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the amphoteric surfactant (b) is an alkylbetaine, preferably an alkylamidoalkylbetaine, in particular a C8i4-alkylamido- (C _{2. 6} ) -alkylbetaine. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the alkylpolyglycoside (c) is an alkylpolyglucoside, preferably an alkylpolyglucoside with an alkyl radical, which comprises 10 to 20 carbon atoms.
Agent according to one of Claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the amphoteric surfactant (b) is an alkylamidoalkylbetaine, preferably a cocamidopropyl betaine ((CnH ₂₃ ) C (O) NH (C ₃ H ₆ ) N (NH ₂ ) ₂ CH ₂ C (O) O), and the alkylpolyglycoside (c) is an alkylpolyglucoside, of [Claim 8] [Claim 9] [Claim 10] [Claim 11] [Claim 12] [Claim 13] [Claim 14] [Claim 15] preferably a laurylglucoside.
Agent according to one of Claims 1 to 7, characterized in that it contains sodium chloride in an amount <0.2% by weight, in particular <0.1% by weight, preferably <0.05% by weight, more preferably <0.02% by weight, most preferably from 0.005 to 0.015% by weight, even more preferably all 0% by weight, respectively based on the total weight of the coloring agent .
Agent according to one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that it contains surfactants from 0 to <0.2% by weight, preferably from 0 to <0.15% by weight and in particular from 0 to < 0.1% by weight, based on the weight of the agent, which comprise a sulfate group (-OSO ₃ ).
Agent according to one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that it comprises an amount <0.2%, relative to the total weight of the agent, of anionic surfactants.
Agent according to one of Claims 1 to 10, characterized in that at least one direct dye is present in a total amount of 0.001 to 7% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 5.5% by weight, of more preferably from 0.08 to 3.4% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.3 to 1.5% by weight and more preferably from 0.6 to 1% by weight, respectively based on the weight of the coloring agent.
Agent according to one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that it also comprises at least one associative thickener, preferably a nonionic associative thickener, in particular cetylhydroxyethylcellulose, preferably in an amount - relative to the total weight of the agent - from 0.1 to 5% by weight.
Agent according to one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that it also comprises at least one film-forming agent, in particular polyquaternium-37, preferably in an amount - relative to the total weight of the agent - of 0 , 1 to 5% by weight.
Agent according to one of claims 1 to 13, characterized in that it comprises at least one nonionic associative thickener, in particular cetylhydroxyethylcellulose and at least one cationic polymer, in particular polyquaternium-37, in combination with one another.
Process for dyeing keratin fibers, in particular human hair, in which an agent according to one of claims 1 to 14 is applied to the keratin fibers.

类似技术:

---

公开号 | 公开日 | 专利标题

---

FR3076725A1|2019-07-19|EPAISSY OXIDATION COMPOSITION

---

EP1779896A2|2007-05-02|Cosmetic composition comprising at least a fixing polymer and an ionic or non ionic surfactant

---

FR3043328A1|2017-05-12|

---

FR3014315A1|2015-06-12|PROCESS FOR COLORING KERATINIC MATERIALS FROM INDIGOFERE | PLANT POWDER | AND ALKALINE AGENT |

---

WO2009030516A2|2009-03-12|Pastel coloring

---

FR2759286A1|1998-08-14|USE OF POLYMERS WITH CRITICAL TEMPERATURE OF THE LCST OR UCST TYPE IN AND FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF COSMETIC OR DERMATOLOGICAL FORMULATIONS COMPOSITIONS CONTAINING THEM

---

FR2915681A1|2008-11-07|Treating human keratin fibers comprises coloring fibers using ready to use coloring composition based on composition comprising one or more polycationic direct dyes, and washing with washing composition, rinsing with water and drying

---

FR3029406A1|2016-06-10|CAPILLARY COLORING PROCESS USING AT LEAST ONE DYE, ONE TITANIUM SALT, AND ANIONIC THICKENING POLYMER

---

EP3873402A1|2021-09-08|Method for treating hair, comprising the application of an organic silicon compound, an alkalising agent and a film-forming polymer

---

FR3075643B1|2019-11-15|PROCESS FOR COLORING MULTI-STAGE KERATIN FIBERS FROM INDIGOFERE | PLANT POWDER AND ACID PROCESSING COMPRISING A PARTICULATE COLOR

---

FR3002438A1|2014-08-29|OXIDIZING COSMETIC COMPOSITION IN THE FORM OF AN OIL-IN-WATER NANOEMULSION FOR COLORING AND / OR DECOLORIZING KERATIN FIBERS

---

FR3052054B1|2019-11-01|MULTI-COMPONENT PACKAGING UNIT AND METHOD FOR REDUCING DYEING OF KERATIN FIBERS

---

FR3058890A1|2018-05-25|KERATINOUS FIBER STABILIZING AGENT COMPRISING 5-CYCLE HETEROCYLES

---

FR3004941A1|2014-10-31|COMPOSITION BASED ON HENNE OR INDIGO POWDER WITH OIL PRE-DISPERSION, HAIR COLORING METHOD USING THE SAME

---

FR3076723A1|2019-07-19|COLORING SHAMPOO WITH IMPROVED COLORING PERFORMANCE

---

FR3063895A1|2018-09-21|MEANS FOR DECORATING COLORED KERATIN FIBERS

---

WO2000044345A1|2000-08-03|Cosmetic composition comprising at least a wax and at least a ceramide compound and methods

---

FR3063898A1|2018-09-21|SELF-HEATING MEDIUM FOR REDUCING THE COLOR OF COLORED KERATINOUS FIBERS

---

FR3059901A1|2018-06-15|PROCESS FOR DECOLORING COLORED KERATINIC FIBERS

---

FR2930141A1|2009-10-23|Treatment of keratin fibers, preferably capillaries, comprises applying a washing composition, rinsing, and drying or leaving to dry the fibers, where the fibers have undergone coloring process with styryl or imine compounds

---

FR3070127B1|2019-09-13|AQUEOUS COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING A CHEMICAL OXIDIZING AGENT, A FIXING POLYMER AND MONTMORILLONITE

---

FR3075645B1|2019-11-15|PROCESS FOR COLORING KERATINIC FIBERS FROM INDIGOFERE |, HENNE | AND SPECIAL ALKALIN | AGENT | POWDER |

---

FR2926981A1|2009-08-07|Composition, useful e.g. simultaneous styling and conditioning of hair, comprises vinylformamide/vinylformamine copolymers, different cationic polymers of vinylformamide/vinylformamine copolymers, and anionic and non-anionic surfactant

---

FR3063897A1|2018-09-21|MEANS FOR REDUCING THE COLOR OF COLORED KERATIN FIBERS

---

WO2021099715A1|2021-05-27|Use of a glycine betaine derivative as an agent for conditioning keratin fibres

同族专利:

---

公开号 | 公开日

---

DE102017223420A1|2019-06-27|

---

GB2571415B|2020-08-19|

---

US20190183769A1|2019-06-20|

---

GB201820757D0|2019-01-30|

---

GB2571415A|2019-08-28|

---

US10667999B2|2020-06-02|

---

FR3076725B1|2022-02-11|

引用文献:

---

公开号 | 申请日 | 公开日 | 申请人 | 专利标题

---

WO2021123329A1|2019-12-20|2021-06-24|L'oreal|Hair dyeing composition comprising a direct dye, a scleroglucan gum and a non-ionic associative polymer|DE10114979A1|2001-03-27|2002-10-10|Goldwell Gmbh|Foaming toning shampoo for temporarily dyeing and simultaneously washing human hair, comprises nonionic surfactant, amphoteric and/or zwitterionic surfactant and direct hair dye|

---

DE60325045D1|2003-08-07|2009-01-15|Kpss Kao Gmbh|Tinting shampoo containing cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 dimethicone|

---

FR2882929B1|2005-03-14|2008-02-22|Oreal|METHOD FOR COLORING HAIR FROM COLOR ANIONIC POLYMER|

---

FR2910282B1|2006-12-21|2009-06-05|Oreal|DIRECT DYE COMPOSITION COMPRISING A CATIONIC SURFACTANT, A BIOHETEROPOLYSACCHARIDE, AN AMPHOTERIC OR NON-IONIC SURFACTANT AND A DIRECT COLORANT|

---

EP2184051A1|2008-11-11|2010-05-12|KPSS-Kao Professional Salon Services GmbH|Cleansing composition|

---

EP2196186A1|2008-12-15|2010-06-16|KPSS-Kao Professional Salon Services GmbH|Cleansing composition|

---

EP2277500A1|2009-07-22|2011-01-26|KPSS-Kao Professional Salon Services GmbH|Composition and method for colouring hair|

---

FR2971936B1|2011-02-25|2013-02-15|Oreal|COMPOSITION FOR COLORING KERATIN FIBERS COMPRISING DIRECT DYE WITH DISULFIDE / THIOL FUNCTION, NON-IONIC SURFACTANT, AMPHOTERIC SURFACTANT, ETHOXYL FATTY ALCOHOL, ALKALINE AGENT, AND REDUCING AGENT|

---

DE102011083021A1|2011-09-20|2013-03-21|Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa|Nourishing dyes for keratin fibers|

---

US9724283B2|2011-12-01|2017-08-08|L'oreal|Hair cleansing composition|

---

WO2014149019A1|2013-03-15|2014-09-25|Hercules Incorporated|Composition and method of producing personal care compositions with improved deposition properties|

---

AU2015315526A1|2014-09-08|2017-03-16|Elementis Specialties, Inc.|Sulfate-free personal care compositions and methods|DE102019219650A1|2019-12-16|2021-06-17|Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa|Tint conditioner with improved coloring performance|

---

FR3111802A1|2020-06-30|2021-12-31|L'oreal|Coloring composition comprising a particular anthraquinone cationic direct dye, a cationic surfactant, an amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant and a fatty alcohol|

法律状态:
2019-12-19| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 2 |

---

2020-12-23| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 3 |

---

2021-07-02| PLSC| Publication of the preliminary search report|Effective date: 20210702 |

---

2021-12-24| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 4 |

优先权:

---

申请号 | 申请日 | 专利标题

---

DE102017223420.2A|DE102017223420A1|2017-12-20|2017-12-20|Improved tint shampoos|

---

DE102017223420.2|2017-12-20|

---