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    • 专利摘要:
    The attenuation effect of the split ends of the ante-iso quaternary fatty acids can be further enhanced by the Alkyldimethylammonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, so that the hair treatment agents containing at least one quaternary fatty acid ante-iso and the Alkyldimethylammonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin are particularly effective in terms of mitigation of split ends.
    公开号:FR3070268A1
    申请号:FR1857579
    申请日:2018-08-22
    公开日:2019-03-01
    发明作者:Monika Nebel；Erik Schulze zur Wiesche
    申请人:Henkel AG and Co KGaA；
    IPC主号:
    专利说明:

    The invention relates to hair treatment agents, in particular shampoos and conditioners, containing a combination of active ingredients intended for gentle and effective hair care.
    Finally and above all because of the significant aggressions undergone by the hair, for example due to colorings or perms but also from the cleaning of the hair with shampoos and environmental pollution, it is increasingly important to have skincare products whose effect lasts as long as possible. Said care products affect the natural structure and properties of the hair. Thus, following the performance of these treatments, styling of wet or dry hair, the hold and the volume of the hair can be optimized or the hair be protected against split ends.
    It has therefore become common, for a long time, to subject the hair to a post-treatment. The hair is then treated, generally in the form of a conditioner, with special active ingredients, for example quaternary ammonium salts or special polymers. This treatment allows, depending on the formulation, to facilitate styling, to improve the hold and to increase the volume of the hair as well as to reduce split ends.
    The care ingredients in shampoos and conditioners are often cationic in nature. The use of ammonium compounds and so-called ante-iso quaternary fatty acids (“ante-iso quantum fatty acids”) is described for example in document EP 1 181 003 B1, which also presents the quaternary derivatives of the 18-methyl-eicosanoic acid (18MEA) as being particularly suitable.
    These quaternary derivatives of 18-methyl-eicosanoic acid (18-MEA) are marketed for example by Croda under the name of Incroquat® 18-MEA-40 and are called, in the INCI nomenclature, C10-40 Isoalkylamidopropylethyl dimonium Ethosulfate . The products, which contain the ingredients in question, are well established on the market. And there are even shampoos and conditioners on the market containing this ingredient combined with hydrolyzed keratin.
    It has been discovered that the reduction effect of split ends of ante-iso quaternary fatty acids can be further enhanced by Alkyldimethylammonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin.
    A first object of the present invention is therefore a hair treatment agent, containing
    a) at least one ante-iso quaternary fatty acid,
    b) Alkyldimethylammonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin.
    Hair treatment agents within the meaning of the present invention are, for example, shampoos, hair conditioning products, hair conditioning shampoos, hair sprays, conditioners, hair treatment products, hair masks, toners for hair, solutions for fixing perms, shampoos for colored hair, hair dyes, hair fixers, hair holding products, preparations for styling hair, curling lotions, fixing foams, hair gels, hair waxes or combinations thereof. Since men in particular are often resistant to the use of several different products and / or to a multi-stage application, the preferred products are those which men use anyway. The preferred products are therefore shampoos, conditioners and hair toners.
    Hair treatment agents contain at least one ante-iso quaternary fatty acid. Anté-iso indicates the third position starting from the end in the hydrocarbon chain of branched fatty acids. Branched fatty acids are mostly in two forms: iso fatty acids have a methyl group branched to the penultimate (= penultimate) carbon atom of the main chain, ante-iso fatty acids, a methyl group to the penultimate carbon atom (= antepenultimate). Said corresponding fatty acids or their derivatives (preferably esters of anteiso fatty acids or amides of anteiso fatty acids) are quaternized, preferably by quaternization of a nitrogen atom.
    In preferred embodiments of the present invention, the anti-iso quaternary fatty acid (s) is / are used in certain ranges of quantity. As such, preferred hair treatment agents are characterized in that they contain - relative to their weight - a total amount ranging from 0.0001 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.0005 to 15% by weight , more preferably from 0.0075 to 10% by weight and in particular from 0.01 to 2% by weight of ante-iso quaternary fatty acid (s).
    In view of the application properties, most preferred are pre-iso quaternary fatty acids, which are derived from acid amides substituted with anti-iso fatty acids. These are very effective for conditioning the hair and are, moreover, exceptionally well compatible with other ingredients of the hair treatment agents so that the agents obtained have very good storage stability.
    Preferred hair treatment agents according to the invention contain - relative to their weight - 0.0001 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.005 to 15% by weight, more preferably 0.005 to 10% by weight and in particular 0 , 01 to 2% by weight ante-iso quaternary fatty acid (s) of formula (I).
    (I), where n represents an integer between 1 and 34, preferably between 5 and 19, particularly preferably between 7 and 17 and in particular between 9 and 15.
    Preferred hair treatment agents according to the invention contain - relative to their weight - 0.0001 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.005 to 15% by weight, more preferably 0.005 to 10% by weight, and in particular 0.01 to 2% by weight ante-iso quaternary fatty acid (s) of formula (Ia)
    Preferred hair treatment agents according to the invention contain - relative to their weight - 0.0001 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.005 to 15% by weight, more preferably 0.005 to 10% by weight, and in particular 15 0.01 to 2% by weight ante-iso quaternary fatty acid (s) of formula (Ib)
    Preferred hair treatment agents according to the invention contain - relative to their weight - 0.0001 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.005 to 15% by weight, more preferably 0.005 to 10% by weight, and in particular 0.01 to 2% by weight of quaternary fatty acid (s) ante-iso of formula (Ib)
    Preferred hair treatment agents according to the invention contain - relative to their weight - 0.0001 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.005 to 15% by weight, more preferably 0.005 to 10% by weight, and in particular 10 0.01 to 2% by weight ante-iso quaternary fatty acid (s) of formula (Ib)
    Very particularly preferred hair treatment agents according to the invention contain - relative to their weight - 0.0001 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 15% by weight, more preferably 0.05 to 10 % by weight, and in particular 0.01 to 2% by weight of a mixture of ante-iso quaternary fatty acids, bearing the name INCI C10-40 Isoalkylamidopropylethyldimonium Ethosulfate and containing 18-methyl-eicosanoic acid (18 -MEA) quaternary of formula (II)
    (H)
    A corresponding product was marketed by Croda under the name Incroquat® 18-MEA 40; the mixture in question has recently been sold under the name Cutissential® 18-MEA 40.
    The second essential ingredient contained in the hair treatment agents according to the invention is the Alkyldimethylammonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin. They are cationic derivatives of keratin hydrolysates.
    Preferred hair treatment agents according to the invention contain - relative to their weight - 0.0001 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.005 to 15% by weight, more preferably 0.0075 to 10% by weight, and in particular 0.01 to 2% by weight of Alkyldimethylammonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin.
    The alkyl radicals of the Alkyldimethylammonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin used according to the invention preferably contain 10 to 24, more preferably 10 to 22, even more preferably 12 to 20 and in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms. The products in question are generally synthesized from natural oils and fats, so that preferred hair treatment agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain - relative to their weight - 0.0001 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.0005 to 15% by weight, more preferably 0.0075 to 10% by weight, and in particular 0.01 to 2% by weight of Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin.
    Other preferred hair treatment agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain - relative to their weight - 0.0001 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.0005 to 15% by weight, more preferred 0.0075 to 10% by weight, and in particular 0.01 to 2% by weight of Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin.
    In view of the particularly marked attenuation of split ends obtained, the use of ingredients a) and b) of agents according to the invention in certain quantity ratios is preferred according to the invention. As such, hair treatment agents according to the invention are preferred in which the weight ratio between the ante-iso quaternary fatty acid (s) and the Alkyldimethylammonium (s) Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin (s) is from 5: 1 to 1: 5, preferably from 3: 1 to 1: 3, more preferably from 2: 1 to 1: 2, still more preferably from 1.5: 1 to 1: 1, 1 and in particular from 1.2: 1 to 1: 1.
    The hair treatment agents according to the invention may contain other ingredients.
    Preferred hair treatment agents contain at least one fatty alcohol.
    The fatty alcohols are monovalent long chain aliphatic primary alcohols comprising hydrocarbon radicals having 6 to 30, preferably 6 to 22, carbon atoms. Hydrocarbon radicals can be saturated, monounsaturated or polyunsaturated. Fatty alcohols which can preferably be used in the context of the present invention are preferably chosen from hexan-1-ol, heptan-1-ol, octan-1-ol, decan-1-ol, dodecan-1-ol (lauric alcohol), tetradecan-1-ol (myristic alcohol), 1-hexadecanol (cetyl alcohol), 1-heptadecanol (Calgary alcohol), octadecan-1-ol (stearyl alcohol ), 1-eicosanol (arachidyl alcohol), docosan-1-ol (behenyl alcohol), 1-tetracosanol (lignoceryl alcohol), 1-hexacosanol (ceramic alcohol), 1-octacosanol (montanyl alcohol) 1-triacontanol (myricylic alcohol), c / s-9-hexadecen-1 -ol (palmitoleic alcohol), c / s-9-octadecen1-ol (oleic alcohol), trans-9-octadecen-1-ol (elaidyl alcohol), c / s-11octadecen-1-ol, 6,9,12-octadecatrien-1-ol (γ-linolenic alcohol) and their mixtures.
    Particularly preferred hair treatment agents are characterized in that they contain - relative to their weight - 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 15% by weight, more preferably 1 to 10% by weight and in particular 2 to 8% by weight of fatty alcohol (s) of formula (III) H 3 C- (CH 2 ) k -CH 2 -OH (III) where k represents whole numbers between 4 and 28, preferably between 6 and 24, more preferably between 8 and 22 and in particular 10, 12, 14, 16, 18 or 20.
    Particularly preferred hair treatment agents according to the invention contain - relative to their weight - 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 15% by weight, more preferably 1 to 10% by weight and in particular 2 to 8% by weight of alcohol (s) derived from the group comprising dodecan-1-ol (lauric alcohol), 1-hexadecanol (cetyl alcohol), octadecan1-ol (alcohol stearyl), docosan-1-ol (behenyl alcohol), the amounts relating to the total amount of said fatty alcohols in the composition.
    Hair treatment agents very particularly preferred according to the invention contain - relative to their weight - 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 15% by weight, more preferably 1 to 10% by weight and in particular 2 to 8% by weight of alcohol (s) derived from the assembly comprising 1-hexadecanol (cetyl alcohol), octadecan-1-ol (stearyl alcohol), the amounts relating to the total amount of said fatty alcohols in the composition.
    Hair treatment agents according to the invention, which are formulated as conditioners or as care shampoos, preferably contain at least one cationic surfactant.
    The cationic surfactant (s) is / are preferably chosen from the group consisting of quaternary ammonium compounds and / or amidoamines, the cationic surfactant (s) preferred (s) being selected from
    - alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides preferably containing 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical and / or
    - dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides preferably containing 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical and / or
    - trialkylmethylammonium chlorides preferably containing 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical and / or
    - cetyltrimethylammonium chloride and / or
    - stearyltrimethylammonium chloride and / or
    - behenyltrimethylammonium chloride and / or
    - distearyldimethylammonium chloride and / or
    - lauryldimethylammonium chloride and / or
    - lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and / or
    - tricetylmethylammonium chloride
    - Quaternium-27 and / or
    - the Quaternium-83.
    Preferred hair treatment agents according to the invention contain - relative to their weight - 0.05 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.25 to 8% by weight , and in particular 0.5 to 7% by weight of cationic surfactant (s)
    Particularly preferred cationic surfactants are chosen from compounds according to formula (IV) below
    R2
    R1-N-R4
    I
    R3
    A (IV), where maximum three of the radicals R1 to R4 independently represent one another a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, at least one of the radicals R1 to R4, an alkyl chain saturated or unsaturated branched or unbranched having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and A, a physiologically compatible organic or inorganic anion,
    In preferred compounds according to formula (IV),
    two or three of the radicals R1 to R4 represent a methyl group or an ethyl group,
    one or two of the radicals R1 to R4 represent a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alkyl chain containing 14 to 26 carbon atoms, and
    - A represents a halide ion, a sulfate ion of general formula RSO3 ·, where R denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or also an anionic radical of an organic acid such as maleic acid, l fumaric acid, oxalic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid or acetic acid.
    More preferred are compounds according to formula (IV), in which
    three of the radicals R1 to R4 represent a methyl group,
    one of the radicals R1 to R4 represents a cetyl, palmityl, stearyl, arachidyl or behenyl group, and
    - A represents a chloride or methosulfate ion.
    In a particularly preferred manner, the at least one compound according to formula (IV) is chosen from cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride and / or behenyltrimethylammonium methosulafte. These compounds can be used in the agent according to the invention separately or in combination, the total amount of compounds of formula (I) in the agent preferably being 10% by weight maximum, and the amounts indicated relate to the weight total of the agent according to the invention.
    In a particularly preferred manner, the cationic surfactant that an agent according to the invention contains is behenyltrimethylammonium chloride. As such, hair treatment agents according to the invention are preferred which contain - relative to their weight - 0.05 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.25 to 8% by weight, and in particular 0.5 to Ί% by weight of behenyltrimethylammonium chloride.
    Hair treatment agents may also contain at least one quaternary ester as the cationic surfactant.
    By “quaternary esters” within the meaning of the present invention, is preferably meant compounds according to formula (V) below
    R6
    The
    R5 - N — X — R8 A
    R7 (V) where the radicals R5, R6 and R7 are respectively independent of each other and can be identical or different, and have the following meaning:
    - a branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxyl group, or
    - a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alkyl radical, or a saturated or unsaturated cyclic alkyl radical, comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxyl group, or
    an aryl or alkylaryl radical, for example phenyl or benzyl, or
    - (- X - R8), provided that at most two of the residues R5, R6 or R7 can represent (- X - R8),
    X having the following meaning:
    - - (CH2) n- with n = 1 to 20, preferably n = 1 to 10 and particularly preferably n = 1 to 5, or
    - - (CH 2 -CHR9-O) n - with n = 1 to 200, preferably 1 to 100, more preferably 1 to 50 and particularly preferably 1 to 20, R9 denoting hydrogen, methyl or ethyl, or
    a hydroxyalkylene group comprising one to four carbon atoms, which can be branched or unbranched, and which contains at least one and maximum 3 hydroxyl groups, and
    R8 having the following meaning:
    - R10-O-CO-, where R10 is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alkyl radical, or a cyclic, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical containing 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which can contain at least one hydroxyl group, and which may furthermore be oxyethylenated, where appropriate, with 1 to 100 units of ethylene oxide and / or 1 to 100 units of propylene oxide, or
    - R11-CO-, where R11 is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alkyl radical, or a cyclic, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical containing 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which can contain at least one hydroxyl group, and which can in addition, be oxyethylenated, where appropriate, with 1 to 100 units of ethylene oxide and / or 1 to 100 units of propylene oxide, and where A represents a physiologically compatible organic or inorganic anion, preferably l one of the radicals R5, R6 or R7 represents the group (- X - R8), R8 represents a non-ethoxylated fatty acid radical, such as a palmitic acid, stearic acid, arachidic acid or behenic acid radical, in particular an acid radical stearic, and A represents a halide ion, a sulphate ion of general formula RSO3 - , where R denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms or an anionic radical of organic acids such as maleic acid, l 'fumaric acid, oxalic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid or acetic acid, in particular a chloride ion or a methosulfate ion.
    The esterquats suitable for the agents according to the invention are preferably chosen from at least one of the products sold under the trade names Rewoquat®, Stepantex®, Dehyquart®, Armocare® and Akypoquat®. Armocare® VGH-70, Dehyquart® F-75, Dehyquart® C-4046, Dehyquart® L80, Dehyquart® F-30, Dehyquart® AU-35, Rewoquat® WE18, Rewoquat® WE38 DPG, Stepantex® VS 90 and Akypoquat® 131 are specific examples of esterquats which are particularly suitable according to the invention.
    Particularly preferred are agents according to the invention which contain, as esterquat, at least one of the compounds known under the names INCI Distearoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate and Distearoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Chloride.
    Particularly preferred is Distearoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate, which may be present in the agents according to the invention in a preferred amount of 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.75 to 6% by weight and in particular from to 5% by weight, the amounts indicated relate to the total weight of the agent according to the invention.
    The esterquat or esterquats can (can) be added to the agents according to the invention separately or in a mixture with other active care ingredients.
    Due to the better handling and ease of implementation, it may be advantageous for the esterquats or esterquats, in particular Distearoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate, to be added to the agents according to the invention as a mixture of principles assets. A particularly suitable example of such a mixture of active principles can be obtained, for example, under the trade name Dehyquart® F 75 from the company BASF (Distearoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate and cetearyl alcohol).
    The hair treatment agents preferably contain at least one silicone, which ensures a pleasant feel of the hair and further improves the attenuating effect of the split ends of the combination according to the invention.
    Preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one silicone chosen from:
    (i) polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, volatile or not, linear, branched or cyclic, crosslinked or noncrosslinked;
    (ii) polysiloxanes, which in their general structure contain one or more organofunctional groups, which are chosen from:
    a) substituted or unsubstituted amino groups;
    b) (per) fluorinated groups;
    c) thiol groups;
    d) carboxylate groups;
    e) hydroxyl groups;
    f) alkoxylated groups;
    g) acyloxyalkyl groups;
    h) amphoteric groups;
    i) bisulfite groups;
    j) hydroxyacylamino groups;
    k) carboxy groups;
    l) sulfonic acid groups; and
    m) sulfate or thiosulfate groups;
    (iii) block copolymers of linear polysiloxane (A) and polyoxyalkylene (B) of type (AB) n with n>3;
    (iv) grafted silicone polymers having a non-silicone organic basic skeleton, consisting of an organic main chain, formed of organic monomers not containing silicone, and to which at least one polysiloxane macromer has been grafted, along its length and optionally at least one of its ends;
    (v) grafted silicone polymers having a basic backbone of polysiloxane to which non-silicone organic monomers have been grafted, which have a main polysiloxane chain, to which at least one organic macromer not containing silicone has been grafted, onto its length and possibly at at least one of its ends;
    or their mixtures.
    Preferred hair treatment agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, with respect to their weight, 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably 0 , 5 to 7.5% by weight and in particular 1 to 5% by weight of silicone (s).
    Preferred silicones are described below.
    Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one silicone of formula Si-I (CH 3 ) 3 Si- [O-Si (CH3) 2] xO-Si (CH 3 ) 3 ( Si-I), where x represents a number between 0 and 100, preferably between 0 and 50, more preferably between 0 and 20 and in particular between 0 and 10.
    These silicones are designated under the term DIMETHICONE in the INCI nomenclature. The silicones of formula Si-I preferably used in the context of the present invention are the compounds:
    (CH 3 ) 3 Si-O-Si (CH 3 ) 3 (CH 3 ) 2Si] 2-O-Si (CH 3 ) 3 (CH 3 ) 3Si- [O- (CH3) 2Si] 3-O-Si (CH 3 ) 3 (CH 3 ) 3Si- [O- (CH3) 2Si] 5 -O-Si (CH 3 ) 3 (CH 3 ) 3Si- [O- (CH 3 ) 2Si] 7-O-Si ( CH3) 3 (CH3) 3Si- [O- (CH 3 ) 2Si] 9-O-Si (CH 3 ) 3 (CH 3 ) 3Si- [O- (CH 3 ) 2Si] ii-O-Si (CH3) 3 (CH3) 3Si- [O- (CH 3 ) 2Si] i3-O-Si (CH 3 ) 3 (CH3) 3Si- [O- (CH 3 ) 2Si] i 5 -O-Si (CH 3 ) 3 (CH3) 3 Si- [O- (CH 3 ) 2Si] 17 -O-Si (CH 3 ) 3 (CH3) 3Si- [O- (CH 3 ) 2Si] 19 -O-Si (CH3) 3 (CH 3 ) 3 Si- [O (CH 3 ) 3Si- [O- (CH 3 ) 2Si] 4-O-Si (CH3) 3 (CH 3 ) 3Si- [O- (CH3) 2Si] 6-O-Si (CH 3 ) 3 (CH 3 ) 3Si- [O- (CH3) 2Si] 8 -O-Si (CH 3 ) 3 (CH 3 ) 3Si- [O- (CH3) 2Si] 10 -O-Si (CH3 ) 3 (CH 3 ) 3Si- [O- (CH3) 2Si] i2-O-Si (CH 3 ) 3 (CH3) 3Si- [O- (CH 3 ) 2Si] 1 4-O-Si (CH 3 ) 3 (CH3) 3Si- [O- (CH 3 ) 2Sil 16 -O-Si (CH3) 3 (CH3) 3Si- [O- (CH 3 ) 2Si] i 8 -O-Si (CH 3 ) 3 (CH 3 ) 3Si- [O- (CH3) 2Si] 20-O-Si (CH 3 ) 3;
    (CH 3 ) 3Si-O- (CH 3 ) 2Si-O-Si (CH3) 3 (CH 3 ) 3Si-O-Si (CH 3 ) 3 , (CH 3 ) 3Si-O- (CH3) 2Si-O -Si (CH 3 ) 3 and / or (CH 3 ) 3 Si- [O (CH 3 ) 2 Si] 2-O-Si (CH3) 3 being particularly preferred.
    Mixtures of the aforementioned silicones can of course also be present in the agents according to the invention. The preferred silicones which can be used according to the invention have viscosities, at 20 ° C., of 0.2 to 2 mm 2 s 1 , the silicones having viscosities of 0.5 to 1 mm 2 s ′ 1 being particularly preferred.
    Particularly preferred agents according to the invention contain one or more aminofunctional silicones. Said silicones can be described, for example, by the formula
    M (RaQ b S ï O (4-ab) / 2) x (RcS î O (4-c) / 2) y M where R, in the above formula, is a hydrocarbon or a hydrocarbon radical having 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, Q is a polar radical of general formula -R 1 HZ, where R 1 is a divalent linking group linked to hydrogen and to the radical Z, composed of carbon and hydrogen atoms, d carbon, hydrogen and oxygen atoms or carbon, hydrogen and nitrogen atoms, and Z is an amino-functional organic radical containing at least one amino-functional group; "A" takes values in the range from about 0 to about 2, "b" takes values in the range from about 1 to about 3, "a" + "b" is less than or equal to 3, and "c" is a number in the range of about 1 to about 3, and x is a number in the range of 1 to about 2,000, preferably about 3 to about 50, and most preferably from about 3 to about 25, and y is a number in the range of from about 20 to about 10,000, preferably from about 125 to about 10,000, and most preferably all about 150 to about 1000, and M is a suitable silicone end group as known in the prior art, preferably trimethylsiloxy. Nonlimiting examples of the radicals represented by R include alkyl radicals such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl, and the like; alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl, and the like; phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, 4bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and similar radicals, as well as sulfur-containing radicals , such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl and the like; R is preferably an alkyl radical containing 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, and most preferably R is methyl. Examples of R 1 include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, -CH 2 CH (CH3) CH 2 -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH 2 CH 2 SCH 2 CH 2 -, -CH 2 CH 2 OCH 2 -, -OCH 2 CH 2 -, -OCH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -, -CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) C (O) OCH 2 -, le - (CH 2 ) 3 CC (O) OCH 2 CH 2 -, -C 6 H 4 C6H 4 -, -C 6 H 4 CH 2 C6H4-; and the - (CH 2 ) 3 C (O) SCH 2 CH 2 -,
    Z is an aminofunctional organic radical containing at least one aminofunctional group. A possible formula for Z is NH (CH 2 ) Z NH 2 , where z is equal to or greater than 1. Another possible formula for Z is -NH (CH 2 ) Z (CH 2 ) Z zNH, where both z and zz are, independently of one another, equal to or greater than 1, this structure comprising diamino ring structures, such as piperazinyl. Z is most preferably a radical -NHCH 2 CH 2 NH 2 . Another possible formula for Z is - N (CH 2 ) z (CH 2 ) zzNX 2 or -NX 2 , where each X of X 2 is independently selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and alkyl groups having 1 to 12 carbon atoms, and zz is 0.
    Q is, most preferably, an aminofunctional polar radical of formula -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 NHCH 2 CH 2 NH 2 . In formulas, "a" takes values in the range of about 0 to about 2, "b" takes values in the range of about 2 to about 3, "a" + "b" is less than or equal to 3, and "c" is a number in the range from about 1 to about 3. The molar ratio between the units R a Qb SiO (4. a b ) / 2 and the units R c SiO ( 4. C ) / 2 is in the range of from about 1: 2 to 1:65, preferably from about 1: 5 to about 1:65 and most preferably from about 1:15 to approximately 1:20. If one or more silicones according to the above formula are used, the different variable substituents according to the above formula may be different for the different silicone components present in the mixture of silicones.
    Preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain an aminofunctional silicone of formula (Si-ll)
    R'aGs-a-SliOSiG 2) n- (OSÎG bR'2- b) m - O-SiG3- a -R'a (Si-ll), where:
    - G denotes -H, a phenyl group, -OH, -O-CH 3 , -CH 3 , -O-CH2CH3,
    -CH2CH3, -O-CH 2 CH 2 CH3, -CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 , -O-CH (CH 3 ) 2 , -CH (CH 3 ) 2 , -O-CH2CH2CH2CH3, -CH2CH2CH2CH3, -O-CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) 2 , -CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) 2 , -O-CH (CH 3 ) CH 2 CH 3 , -CH (CH 3 ) CH 2 CH 3 , -OC (CH 3 ) 3 , -C (CH 3 ) 3 ;
    - a represents a number between 0 and 3, in particular 0;
    - b represents a number between 0 and 1, in particular 1,
    - m and n are numbers the sum of which (m + n) is between and 2,000, preferably between 50 and 150, n preferably taking values ranging from 0 to 1,999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably taking values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10,
    - R 'represents a monovalent radical chosen from o -QN (R) -CH 2 -CH 2 -N (R) 2 o -QN (R) 2 o -QN + (R) 3Ao -QN + H (R) 2 A 'o -QN + H 2 (R) A' o -QN (R) -CH 2 -CH 2 -N + RH 2 A ·, where each Q represents a chemical bond, -CH 2 -, -CH 2 - CH 2 -, -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -, -C (CH 3 ) 2 -, -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -, -CH 2 C (CH 3 ) 2 -, -CH (CH 3 ) CH 2 CH 2 R represents identical or different radicals from the set H, -phenyl, -benzyl, -CH 2 CH (CH 3) Ph, alkyl radicals CI_ 2 o, preferably -CH 3, - CH 2 CH 3 , -ΟΗ 2 ΟΗ 2 ΟΗ 3 , -CH (CH 3 ) 2 , -CH 2 CH 2 CH2H 3! -CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) 2 , -CH (CH 3 ) CH 2 CH 3 , -C (CH 3 ) 3 , and A represents an anion, which is preferably chosen from chloride, bromide, iodide or methosulfate.
    Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one aminofunctional silicone of formula (Si-lla) (CH 3 ) 3 Si- [O-Si (CH 3 ) 2 ] n [OSi (CH 3 )] m -OSi (CH 3 ) 3 (Si-lla),
    I
    CH2CH (CH 3 ) CH 2 NH (CH 2 ) 2NH2 where m and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n preferably takes values ranging from 0 to 1,999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably takes values ranging from 1 to 2,000, in particular from 1 to 10.
    These silicones are called Trimethylsilylamodimethicone according to the INCI declaration.
    Also preferred in particular are agents according to the invention which contain an aminofunctional silicone of formula (Si-llb)
    R- [Si (CH 3 ) 2 -O] ni [Si (R) -O] m - [Si (CH 3 ) 2] n2-R (Si-llb),
    I (CH2) 3NH (CH 2 ) 2 NH2 where R denotes -OH, -O-CH 3 or a group -CH 3 and m, n1 and n2 are numbers whose sum (m + n1 + n2) is between 1 and 2,000, preferably between 50 and 150, the sum (n1 + n2) preferably taking values ranging from 0 to
    999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably taking values ranging from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10.
    These silicones are called Amodimethicone according to the INCI declaration.
    Independently of the aminofunctional silicones used, the agents preferred according to the invention are those which contain an aminofunctional silicone whose amine index is greater than 0.25 meq / g, preferably greater than 0.3 meq / g and in particular greater than 0.4 meq / g. The amine index therefore represents the milliequivalent of amine per gram of the aminofunctional silicone. It can be determined by titrimetry and be indicated in the mg KOH / g unit.
    Preferred hair treatment agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, with respect to their weight, 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably 0 , 5 to 7.5% by weight and in particular 1 to 5% by weight of aminofunctional silicone (s).
    In a particularly preferred manner, the agents according to the invention contain one or more aminofunctional silicone (s) comprising one or more terminal / terminal hydroxy group (s). Certain specific aminofunctional silicones comprising one or more terminal / terminal hydroxy group (s) have been found to be particularly suitable in the agents according to the invention. These are described below.
    Preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, relative to their weight, 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 10% by weight, particularly preferably 0.5 to 7.5% by weight and in particular 1 to 5% by weight of at least one silicone according to the formula (Si-III) below5

    CH 3 ch 3
    SiI ch 3 î 2 -O —Si- (ÇH 2 ) 3
    NH <ÇH a ) 2 L nh 2 -
    (Si-lll) m
    where m and n are numbers chosen so that the sum (n +
    m) is in a range from 1 to 1000, n is a number in a range from 0 to 999 and m is a number in a range from 1 to 1000,
    R1, R2 and R3, which are the same or different, represent a hydroxy group or a C1-4 alkoxy group, at least one of the groups R1 to R3 denoting a hydroxy group;
    Other preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, relative to their weight, 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 10% by weight, particularly preferably 0, 5 to 7.5% by weight and in particular 1 to 5% by weight of at least one silicone according to the formula (Si-IV) below
    (Si-IV) q
    nh 2 ch 3 . <ÇH 2 ) 3
    NH (Ç H 2> 2 p and q denote numbers which are chosen such that the sum (p + q) is in a range from 1 to 1000, p is a number in a range from 0 to 999 and q is a number in the range from 1 to 1000,
    R1 and R2, which are different, denote a hydroxy group or a C1-4 alkoxy group, at least one of the groups R1 and denote a hydroxy group.
    R2
    The silicones of formulas (Si-III) and (Si-IV) differ by the grouping on the atom of Si, which carry the nitrogen group: in the formula (Si-III), R2 represents a hydroxy group or an alkoxy group in C1-4, while the radical in the formula (Si-IV) is a methyl group. The individual Si groupings, which are identified by the indices m and n or p and q, need not be present in the form of blocks; on the contrary, the individual units can also be present in the form of a statistical distribution, that is to say that in the formulas (Si-III) and (Si-IV), each group R1-Si (CH 3 ) 2 is not not necessarily linked to a group - [O-Si (CH 3 ) 2].
    Pre-treatment agents containing at least one silicone of formula (Si-V) have proven to be particularly effective with regard to the desired effects during the process according to the invention:

    A represents a group -OH, -O-Si (CH 3 ) 3 , -O-Si (CH 3 ) 2 OH, -OSi (CH 3 ) 2 OCH 3 ,
    D represents a group -H, -Si (CH 3 ) 3 , -Si (CH 3 ) 2 OH,
    -If (CH 3 ) 2 OCH 3 , b, n and c represent whole numbers between 0 and 1000, provided that
    - n> 0etb + c> 0
    - at least one of the conditions A = -OH or D = -H is fulfilled.
    Thus, according to the invention, hair treatment agents according to the invention are preferred, which contain, with respect to their weight, 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 10% by weight, of particularly preferably 0.5 to
    7.5% by weight and in particular 1 to 5% by weight of at least one silicone of formula (Si-V):
    (Si-V), where
    A represents a group -OH, -O-Si (CH 3 ) 3 , -O-Si (CH 3 ) 2 OH, -OSi (CH 3 ) 2 OCH 3 ,
    D represents a group -H, -Si (CH 3 ) 3 , -Si (CH 3 ) 2 OH,
    -If (CH 3 ) 2 OCH 3 , b, n and c represent whole numbers between 0 and 1000, provided that
    - n> 0etb + c> 0
    - at least one of the conditions A = -OH or D = -H is fulfilled.
    In the above formula (Si-V), the individual siloxane units with the indices b, c and n are statistically distributed, that is to say that they do not necessarily have to be block copolymers.
    Other particularly suitable silicones are substituted by 4morpholinomethyl. Particularly preferred are hair treatment agents according to the invention, which contain, with respect to their weight, 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 10% by weight, particularly preferably 0, 5 to 7.5% by weight and in particular 1 to 5% by weight of at least one silicone substituted by 4-morpholinomethyl of formula (Si-VI),
    (Si-VI), where represents a structural unit (i) linked by a -Och 3 ch 3 (i) or an oligomer or polymer radical linked by a -O- containing structural units of formula (i), or - OH, represents a bond with the structural unit (i) or a terminal group B (linked by Si) or D (linked by O), represents a group -OH, -O-Si (CH 3 ) 3 , -O- If (CH 3 ) 2 OH, -OSi (CH 3 ) 2 OCH 3 , represents a group -H, -Si (CH 3 ) 3 , -Si (CH 3 ) 2 OH,
    -If (CH 3 ) 2 OCH 3 , a, b and c represent whole numbers between 0 and 1000, provided that a + b + c> 0 m, n and o represent whole numbers between 1 and 1 000, provided that at least one of the conditions B = -OH or D = -H is met.
    The structural formula (Si-VI) illustrates that the siloxane groups n and o do not necessarily have to be directly linked to a terminal group B or D. On the contrary, in preferred formulas (Si-VI), a> 0 or b> 0 and in particularly preferred formulas (Si-VI) a> 0 and b> 0, that is to say that the terminal group B or D is preferably linked to a dimethylsiloxy group. The siloxane units a, b, c, n and o are preferably distributed statistically, including in the formula (Si-VI).
    The silicones used according to the invention, represented by the formula (Si-VI), can have a trimethylsilyl ending (D or B = -Si (CH 3 ) 3 ), but they can also have a ending dimethylsilylhydroxy on both sides or dimethylsilylhydroxy and dimethylsilylmethoxy on both sides. The silicones used in a particularly preferred manner in the context of the present invention are chosen from the silicones in which
    B = -O-Si (CH 3 ) 2 OH
    B = -O-Si (CH 3 ) 2 OH
    B = -O-Si (CH 3 ) 2 OH
    B = -O-Si (CH 3 ) 3
    B = -O-Si (CH 3 ) 2 OCH 3 and and D = -Si (CH 3 ) 3 and D = -Si (CH 3 ) 2 OH and D = -Si (CH 3 ) 2 OCH 3 and D = -If (CH 3 ) 2 OH
    D = -Si (CH 3 ) 2 OH.
    These silicones cause a considerable improvement in the capillary properties of the hair treated with the agents according to the invention, in particular a significant improvement in protection in the event of treatment by oxidation.
    Even in the formula (Si-VI), the radical A can
    - represent a structural unit (i) linked by an -O- or
    an oligomer or polymer radical linked by an -O- containing structural units of formula (i),
    - or -OH.
    This makes it possible to detail the formula (Si-VI) in one of the formulas (Si-VIa), (SiVlb) or (Si-VIc):
    (Si-VIa)
    Whatever the type of aminofunctional silicone (s) comprising one or more terminal hydroxy group (s) used, the agents according to the invention preferably contain the silicone (s) in emulsion form, particularly preferably in the form of microemulsion.
    It has been demonstrated that the effect of the silicones used in the agents according to the invention can be further amplified if certain nonionic components are also used in the agents. In addition, these non-ionic components have positive effects on the storage stability of the agents. Nonionic components which are particularly suitable as such are decanol, undecanol, dodecanol, tridecanol ethoxylates, etc. Ethoxylated tridecanols have been found to be particularly suitable, which tridecanols are particularly preferably incorporated into the agents according to the invention. Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain - relative to their weight - 0.00001 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.0001 to 3.5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.001 to 2% by weight, more preferably 0.01 to 1% by weight and in particular 0.1 to 0.5% by weight of ethoxylated, branched tridecanol (INCI name: Trideceth-5) or of a-iso- tridecyl-œ-hydroxypolyglycolether (INCI name: Trideceth-10) or mixtures thereof.
    The hair treatment agents preferably contain the active ingredients described above in a cosmetically acceptable vehicle. Within the framework of the invention, by this is meant preferably an aqueous or hydroalcoholic vehicle.
    The cosmetic vehicle preferably contains at least 50% by weight, more preferably at least 60% by weight, particularly preferably at least 70% by weight and in particular 75% by weight of water.
    In addition, the cosmetic vehicle may contain 0.01 to 40% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 30% by weight and in particular 0.1 to 20% by weight of at least one alcohol.
    Suitable alcohols are for example ethanol, ethyldiglycol, 1-propanol, 2-propanol, isopropanol, 1,2-propylene glycol, glycerol, diglycerol, triglycerol, 1-butanol, 2-butanol, 1,2-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 1pentanol, 2-pentanol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, 1-hexanol, 2-hexanol , 1,2-hexanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, polyethylene glycol, sorbitol, sorbitan, benzyl alcohol, or mixtures of these alcohols.
    Water-soluble alcohols are particularly preferred. Particularly preferred are ethanol, 1,2-propylene glycol, glycerol, benzyl alcohol and mixtures of these alcohols.
    In order to achieve very good skin compatibility (with the scalp) of the hair treatment agents according to the invention, it is advantageous for them to have a slightly acidic pH.
    It has been discovered that the agents according to the invention whose pH is in a range from 4.2 to 5.8 are particularly mild and well tolerated by the skin.
    In a first preferred embodiment, the hair treatment agents according to the invention therefore preferably have a pH ranging from 4.2 to 5.8, more preferably from 4.25 to 5.6, particularly preferably from 4.3 to 5.5, more particularly preferably from 4.35 to 5.4 and most preferably from 4.4 to 5.3.
    The hair treatment agents according to the invention can contain vegetable oils, vegetable butters and / or vegetable waxes. These vegetable oily components facilitate the disentangling and the styling of the hair and increase their shine.
    Suitable vegetable oily components include natural oils (vegetable) and / or natural butters (vegetable), which generally contain triglycerides and mixtures of triglycerides.
    Favorite natural oils are coconut oil, almond oil (sweet), walnut oil, peach kernel oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil , avocado oil, Tea Tree Oil, soybean oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, Tsubaki oil, olive oil evening primrose, rice bran oil, palm kernel oil, mango kernel oil, marula oil, meadow cardamine oil, safflower oil, walnut oil macadamia, grape seed oil, amaranth seed oil, argan oil, bamboo oil, olive oil, wheat germ oil, pumpkin seed oil, mallow oil, hazelnut oil, safflower oil, canola oil, sasanqua oil, jojoba oil, rambutan oil, butter cocoa and / or shea butter.
    The suitable natural or vegetable waxes which can preferably be used are carnauba waxes, beeswaxes and / or candelilla waxes.
    Particularly preferred vegetable oily components are almond oil (sweet), peach kernel oil, apricot kernel oil, amaranth seed oil, argan oil, olive oil, jojoba oil, cocoa butter and / or shea butter.
    Apricot kernel oil, argan oil, olive oil and / or jojoba oil are particularly preferred.
    In a preferred embodiment, the hair treatment agents according to the invention preferably contain coconut oil, almond oil (sweet), walnut oil, peach kernel oil, kernel oil d '' apricot, argan oil, avocado oil, tea tree oil, soybean oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, Tsubaki oil, evening primrose oil, bran oil rice, palm kernel oil, mango kernel oil, marula oil, meadow cardamine oil, safflower oil, macadamia nut oil, grape seed oil, amaranth seed oil, bamboo oil, oil olive oil, wheat germ oil, pumpkin seed oil, mallow oil, hazelnut oil, safflower oil, canola oil, sasanqua oil, jojoba oil, rambutan oil, as well as cocoa butter and / or shea butter.
    In this embodiment, it is particularly preferred that the hair treatment agents according to the invention contain almond oil (sweet), peach kernel oil, apricot kernel oil, seed oil. amaranth, argan oil, olive oil, jojoba oil, as well as cocoa butter and / or shea butter.
    The weight share of at least one vegetable oil, vegetable butter and / or vegetable wax in the total weight of the hair treatment agents according to the invention preferably amounts to 0.02 to 2.50% by weight, more preferably 0.03 to 2.00% by weight, particularly preferably 0.04 to 1.50% by weight and in particular 0.05 to 1.00% by weight.
    In addition to the essential and optional ingredients mentioned above, the hair treatment agents according to the invention may contain, in another preferred embodiment, to further improve the healing properties of the agents, at least one other active principle of hair conditioning which can be chosen. on the whole constituted
    - protein hydrolysates,
    - vitamins,
    - plant extracts and / or
    - glycerol.
    By suitable protein hydrolysates is meant mixtures of products which can be obtained by catalyzed acid, basic or enzymatic degradation of proteins.
    It is possible to use protein hydrolysates of plant, animal and / or marine origin.
    Protein hydrolysates of animal origin are, for example, hydrolysates of elastin protein, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein, which can also be in the form of salts. These products are for example marketed under the registered brands Dehylan® (Cognis), Promois® (Interorgana), Collapuron® (Cognis), Nutrilan® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol® (Deutsche Gélatine Fabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein® ( Inolex) and Kerasol® (Croda).
    Protein hydrolysates of plant origin, e.g. soy protein, almond, rice, pea, potato and wheat hydrolysates are preferred. These products are for example marketed under the registered trademarks Gluadin® (Cognis), DiaMin® (Diamalt), Lexein® (Inolex) and Crotein® (Croda).
    The proportion by weight of the protein hydrolyzate (s) in the total weight of the hair treatment agents is preferably from 0.01 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.025 to 3% by weight , and in particular from 0.05 to 2% by weight.
    By "appropriate vitamins" is preferably meant the following vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors, as well as their derivatives:
    • Vitamin A: the group of substances called vitamins A includes retinol (vitamin A-ι) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A 2 ). Carotenep is the provitamin for retinol. Vitamin A components contemplated are, for example, retinoic acid and its esters, the retinal, and retinol and its esters such as palmitate and acetate.
    • Vitamin B: the group of vitamin B or vitamin B complex includes among others> vitamin Bi (thiamine)> vitamin B 2 (riboflavin)> vitamin B 3 . This designation generally includes the nicotinic acid compounds and the nicotic acid amide (niacinamide).
    > vitamin B 5 (pantothenic acid and panthene oil). Within this group, panthenol is used in a preferred manner. The panthenol derivatives which can be used are in particular the esters and ethers of panthenol, pantolactone and the cationically derived panthenols. As examples of individual representatives, mention may be made of panthenol triacetate, monoethyl ether of panthenol and its monoacetate, as well as cationic derivatives of panthenol.
    > vitamin B 6 (pyridoxine, as well as pyridoxamine and pyridoxal).
    • Vitamin C (ascorbic acid): use in the form of palmitic acid ester, glucosides or phosphates may be preferred. Use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.
    • Vitamin E (tocopherols, in particular a-tocopherol).
    • Vitamin F: the term "vitamin F" generally includes essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.
    • Vitamin H: Vitamin H designates the acid compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-d] imidazole-4-valérique for which the common name of biotin has become established in the meantime.
    Vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors of groups A, B, E and H are particularly preferred. Nicotinamide, biotin, pantolactone and / or panthenol are particularly preferred.
    The proportion by weight of the vitamin (s), of the vitamin derivative (s) and / or of the vitamin precursor (s) in the total weight of the treatment agent capillary is preferably from 0.001 to 2% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.005 to 1% by weight and in particular from 0.01 to 0.5% by weight.
    By suitable plant extracts is meant extracts which can be produced from all parts of a plant. In general, these extracts are produced by extracting the whole plant. In some cases, it may however be preferred to produce the extracts exclusively from the flowers and / or leaves of these plants. The appropriate extracts are above all those of green tea, oak bark, nettle, witch hazel, hops, chamomile, burdock roots, horsetail, hawthorn, linden flowers, lychee , almond, aloe vera, spruce needles, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grape, sage, rosemary, birch, mauve, meadow cardamine, thyme, yarrow, common thyme, lemon balm, prickly bugrane, coltsfoot , marshmallow, ginseng, ginger roots, echinacea purpurea, olea europea, Boerhavia Diffusa roots, fennel and celery.
    It is particularly preferred to use in the compositions according to the invention extracts of green tea, nettle, witch hazel, chamomile, aloe vera, ginseng, Echinacea purpurea, OIea europea and / or roots from Boerhavia Diffusa.
    As extractants for producing the plant extracts mentioned, it is possible to use water, alcohols and mixtures thereof. Among the alcohols, lower alcohols such as ethanol or isopropanol are preferred for this reason, in particular however polyvalent alcohols such as ethylene glycol or propylene glycol, as well as an agent for unique extraction only as a mixture with water. Plant extracts based on water / propylene glycol in a ratio of 1:10 to 10: 1 have been found to be particularly suitable.
    Plant extracts can be used either in a pure form or in a diluted form. When used in diluted form, they usually contain approx. 2 to 80% by weight of active substance as well as, as a solvent, the extracting agent or the mixture of extracting agents used for obtaining them.
    The plant extracts can be used in the hair treatment agents according to the invention in an amount preferably ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 7.5% by weight and particular from 0.1 to 5% by weight (relative to the total weight of the agents).
    Glycerol can be added to the cleaning and hair care agents separately in an amount of 10% by weight maximum (based on the total weight of the agent). But it can also be part of the aforementioned hydroalcoholic vehicle.
    It has been found that the hair treatment agents according to the invention are also suitable for use as an anti-dandruff preparation.
    The total weight of the dandruff agents in the total weight of the hair treatment agents may preferably represent 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.025 to 7.5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 5 % by weight and in particular 0.075 to 3% by weight.
    Suitable anti-dandruff active ingredients can be chosen from piroctone olamine, climbazol, zinc pyrithione, ketoconazole, salicylic acid, sulfur, selenium sulphate, tar preparations, derivatives of undecenoic acid, burdock root extracts, poplar extracts, nettle extracts, walnut shell extracts, birch extracts, willow bark extracts, rosemary extracts and / or arnica extracts .
    Climbazole, zinc pyrithione and piroctone olamine are preferred.
    Other active ingredients, excipients and adjuvants which may preferably be present in the hair treatment agents according to the invention are for example:
    - humectants,
    - perfumes,
    - UV filters,
    - thickening agents such as gelatins or vegetable gums, for example agar-agar, guar gum, alginate, xanthan gum, gum arabic, karaya gum, locust bean gum, flax seeds, dextran, cellulose derivatives such as methylcellulose, hydroxyalkylcellulose or carboxymethylcellulose, fractions and starch derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin or dextrin, clays and phyllosilicates such as ex. bentonite or entirely synthetic hydrocolloids such as polyvinyl alcohol, Ca, Mg or Zn soaps,
    - structuring agents such as maleic acid or lactic acid,
    - dimethylisosorbide,
    - cyclodextrin,
    active ingredients improving the fibrous structure, in particular the mono-, di- and oligosaccharides such as for example glucose, galactose, fructose, fruit sugar, or lactose,
    - dyes to color the agent,
    - active ingredients such as bisabolol and / or allantoin,
    - complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, palaninediacetic acid and phosphonic acids,
    - ceramides. The term “ceramides” means N-acylsphingosine (sphingosine fatty acid amide) or synthetic analogues of these lipids (“pseudo-ceramides”),
    - propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N 2 O, dimethyl ether, CO 2 or air,
    - antioxidants,
    - additional viscosity regulators such as salts (NaCI).
    The agents according to the invention are so-called rinse products, that is to say that after a certain period of action on the hair, they must be rinsed. This action time is preferably less than an hour, that is to say that the consumer does not preferably leave the product in the hair until the next shampoo.
    Another object of the present invention is therefore a hair treatment method, in which an agent according to the invention is applied to dry or wet hair, remains there for a period of between 30 and 300 seconds and is then rinsed.
    The agents according to the invention bring about a marked attenuation of the split ends.
    Another object of the present invention is therefore the use of mixtures
    a) at least one ante-iso quaternary fatty acid,
    b) Alkyldimethylammonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin to improve the hair conditioning effect of hair treatment agents.
    Concerning preferred embodiments of the method according to the invention and uses according to the invention, what has been explained on the agents according to the invention applies mutatis mutandis.
    Examples of (the data are all expressed in% by weight):
    Hair shampoos:
    1 2 3 4 5 6 Sodium laureth sulfate 14.0 14.0 14.0 14.0 14.0 14.0 Disodium cocoamphodiacetate 7.0 7.0 7.0 7.0 7.0 7.0 Polyquaternium-10 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 Citric acid 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 NaOH 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 Sodium benzoate 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Panthenol 75% 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Tocopheryl acetate 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 C10-40Isoalkylamidopropylethyldimoniumethosulfate 0.2 0.15 0.2 0.1 0.2 0.05 Steardimonium HydroxypropylHydrolyzed Keratin 0.2 0.2 0.15 0.2 0.1 0.05 Hydrolyzed keratin 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Sodium chloride 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 Water, preservative and ad ad ad ad ad ad possibly perfume oils 100 100 100 100 100 100
    Intensive cures:
    1 2 3 4 5 6 Quaternium-87 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5 Glyceryl Stearate 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 Cetearyl alcohol 7.0 7.0 7.0 7.0 7.0 7.0 Lecithin 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 Isopropyl myristate 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 Distearoylethyl Hydroxyethylmoniummethosulfate 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 Liquid paraffin 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 methylparaben 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4
    Citric acid 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 C10-40 Isoalkylamidopropylethyldimoniumethosulfate 0.2 0.15 0.2 0.1 0.2 0.05 Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin 0.2 0.2 0.15 0.2 0.1 0.05 Panthenol 75% 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Hydrolyzed keratin 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 niacinamide 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Water, preservative, substances ad ad ad ad ad ad accompaniment and possibly perfume oils 100 100 100 100 100 100
    Hair treatments
    1 2 3 4 5 6 Cetearyl alcohol 7.0 7.0 7.0 7.0 7.0 7.0 Quaternium-87 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.9 Cetrimonium chloride 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 Distearoylethyl Hydroxyethyl-moniumMethosulphate 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 Polyquaternium-10 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 Baobab seed oil 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 Polyquaternium-37 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 Hydrolyzed keratin 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Glycol distearate 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 Citric acid 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 Dimeth icon 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 C10-40Isoalkylamidopropylethyldimoniumethosulfate 0.2 0.15 0.2 0.1 0.2 0.05 Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin 0.2 0.2 0.15 0.2 0.1 0.05 Water, preservative, substances ad ad ad ad ad ad accompaniment and possibly perfume oils 100 100 100 100 100 100
    Conditioners
    1 2 3 4 5 6 Cetearyl alcohol 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 Quaternium-87 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.75 Behentrimonium chloride 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 Behenoyl PG Trimoniumchlorid 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 Glycol distearate 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 Distearoylethyl Hydroxyethyl-moniumMethosulphate 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 Amodimethicone / Morpholinomethyl Silsesquioxane Copolymere 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 Citric acid 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Shea Butter 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 Lactic acid 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 Magnesium chloride 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 C10-40Isoalkylamidopropylethyldimoniumethosulfate 0.2 0.15 0.2 0.1 0.2 0.05 Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin 0.2 0.2 0.15 0.2 0.1 0.05 Water, preservative, substances ad ad ad ad ad ad accompaniment and possibly perfume oils 100 100 100 100 100 100
    权利要求:
    Claims (10)
    [1" id="c-fr-0001]
    1. Hair treatment agent, container
    a) at least one ante-iso quaternary fatty acid,
    b) Alkyldimethylammonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin.
    [2" id="c-fr-0002]
    2. Hair treatment agent according to claim 1, characterized in that it contains - relative to its weight - a total amount ranging from 0.0001 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.0005 to 15% by weight , more preferably from 0.0075 to 10% by weight and in particular from 0.01 to 2% by weight of ante-iso quaternary fatty acid (s).
    [3" id="c-fr-0003]
    3. Hair treatment agent according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains - relative to its weight 0.0001 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.005 to 15% by weight, more preferably 0.005 at 10% by weight and in particular 0.01 to 2% by weight ante-iso quaternary fatty acid (s) of formula (I) where n represents an integer between 1 and 34, preferably between 5 and 19, particularly preferably between 7 and 17 and in particular between 9 and 15.
    [4" id="c-fr-0004]
    4. Hair treatment agent according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains - relative to its weight 0.0001 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 15% by weight, more preferred 0.05 to 10% by weight, and in particular 0.01 to 2% by weight of a mixture of ante-iso quaternary fatty acids, bearing the name INCI C10-40 Isoalkylamidopropylethyldimonium Ethosulfate and containing acid 18 -methyl-eicosanoic (18-MEA) quaternary of formula (II)
    [5" id="c-fr-0005]
    5. Hair treatment agent according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains - relative to its weight 0.0001 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.005 to 15% by weight, more preferably 0 , 0075 to 10% by weight and in particular 0.01 to 2% by weight of Alkyldimethylammonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin.
    [6" id="c-fr-0006]
    6. Hair treatment agent according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains - relative to its weight 0.0001 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.0005 to 15% by weight, more preferred 0.0075 to 10% by weight and in particular 0.01 to 2% by weight of Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin.
    [7" id="c-fr-0007]
    7. Hair treatment agent according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains - relative to its weight 0.0001 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.0005 to 15% by weight, more preferred 0.0075 to 10% by weight and in particular 0.01 to 2% by weight of Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin.
    [8" id="c-fr-0008]
    8. Hair treatment agent according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio between the quaternary fatty acid (s) ante-iso and the Alkyldimethylammonium or Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin (s) is from 5: 1 to 1: 5, preferably from 3: 1 to 1: 3, more preferably from 2: 1 to 1: 2, still more preferably from 1.5: 1 to 1: 1.1 and in particular from 1.2: 1 to 1: 1.
    [9" id="c-fr-0009]
    9. Hair treatment method, characterized in that an agent according to one of claims 1 to 8 is applied to dry or wet hair, remains there for a period of 30 to 300 seconds and is then rinsed.
    [10" id="c-fr-0010]
    10. Use of mixtures
    a) at least one ante-iso quaternary fatty acid,
    b) Alkyldimethylammonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin to improve the hair conditioning effect of hair treatment agents.
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    同族专利:
    公开号 | 公开日
    US11123275B2|2021-09-21|
    DE102017215071A1|2019-02-28|
    GB2568132B|2020-02-19|
    GB201813764D0|2018-10-10|
    US20190060198A1|2019-02-28|
    GB2568132A|2019-05-08|
    FR3070268B1|2021-02-12|
    引用文献:
    公开号 | 申请日 | 公开日 | 申请人 | 专利标题
    JPH11292739A|1998-04-08|1999-10-26|Seiwa Kasei Kk|Hair treatment|
    DE60127209T2|2000-03-29|2007-12-20|Croda, Inc.|QUATERNARY FATTY ACID BASED ON ANTI-ISO COMPOUNDS|
    DE102006045965A1|2006-09-27|2008-04-03|Henkel Kgaa|Styling agent with a high degree of hold|
    US20080131391A1|2006-12-01|2008-06-05|L'oreal|Compositions containing a quaternary ammonium polymer, a fatty quaternary agent and a nonionic surfactant|
    JP5368980B2|2007-05-31|2013-12-18|花王株式会社|Two-component oxidation hair dye composition|
    US8551463B2|2007-10-22|2013-10-08|Living Proof, Inc.|Hair care compositions and methods of treating hair|
    US9420863B2|2010-04-14|2016-08-23|Spartan Brands, Inc.|Neutralizing hair compositions and methods|
    DE102011089404A1|2011-12-21|2013-06-27|Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa|Use of at least one anteiso carboxylic acid for moisture resistant heat styling|DE102019116765A1|2019-06-21|2020-12-24|Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa|Cyclic hydrazides as fragrance precursors|
    DE102019125579A1|2019-09-24|2021-03-25|Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa|KETAL-BASED SCENT AND INSECT REPELLENT PRECURSOR COMPOUNDS|
    法律状态:
    2019-08-22| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 2 |
    2020-07-24| PLSC| Search report ready|Effective date: 20200724 |
    2020-08-21| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 3 |
    2021-08-19| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 4 |
    优先权:
    申请号 | 申请日 | 专利标题
    DE102017215071.8A|DE102017215071A1|2017-08-29|2017-08-29|Powerful hair treatment products with increased care properties|
    DE102017215071.8|2017-08-29|
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