COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING ESSENTIAL IMMORTELLE OIL AND EXTRACT OF ORIGANUM

专利摘要:
The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising an essential oil of immortelle and a terpene extract of at least one plant of the Origanum genus, in particular Origanum majorana, as well as its cosmetic use for the care of the skin, in particular for to fight against the cutaneous signs of the aging and / or the drying of the skin.
公开号:FR3068251A1
申请号:FR1756021
申请日:2017-06-29
公开日:2019-01-04
发明作者:Geraldine Lemaire；Valerie Cenizo；Cedric Khan；Pascal Portes
申请人:Laboratoires M&L SA；
IPC主号:

专利说明:

COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING IMMORTAL ESSENTIAL OIL AND ORIGANUM EXTRACT
OBJECT OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition containing an essential oil of immortelle and a terpene extract of at least one plant of the genus Origanum, in particular of Origanum majorana, as well as its cosmetic use for the care of the skin, in particular for fight against the cutaneous signs of aging and / or dryness of the skin.
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
Skin aging is determined by genetic and environmental factors. A distinction is usually made between intrinsic or chronological aging, which affects the skin like the other organs and corresponds to the inevitable modifications linked to age, from extrinsic aging which is linked to environmental factors and in particular to clinical and histological modifications. and functional characteristics of the skin linked to chronic sun exposure and therefore sitting on the photo-exposed areas.
These two processes are closely associated and in both cases, the production of reactive oxygen species (ROS), leading to oxidative stress is a determining element of skin aging. It is defined as an excess of free radicals present in the body resulting from excessive production by various physiological mechanisms or from exogenous toxic phenomena (such as tobacco, pollution, blue light or exposure to UV). These reactive oxygen species (ROS) and free radicals can thus be generated either by cellular metabolism, such as mitochondrial respiration, or by the detoxification of xenobiotics or solar radiation.
In principle, this physiological production of free radicals is controlled by cellular defense systems. These are however affected by various factors such as a deficit in antioxidants or a decrease in the activity of antioxidant enzymes or by the overproduction of reactive oxygen species, thus leading to an imbalance of the anti defense balance -oxidants / pro-oxidants and therefore in a state of oxidative stress. It is widely accepted that this oxidative stress plays an important role in the aging of the skin. In particular, the degradation of skin lipids and proteins under the effect of oxidative stress leads to sagging skin, the formation of wrinkles and pigment spots and a loss of skin elasticity and radiance. It has also been observed that the nitrogen monoxide produced in excess during an imbalance in the redox balance inhibits the synthesis of the proteins necessary for the cornification of the epidermis and thus disturbs the barrier function.
Other phenomena lead to a disturbance of the barrier function, and in particular the reduction in the capacity for renewal and differentiation of keratinocytes linked to aging. The alteration of the epidermal barrier results in dehydration of the epidermis and in turn leads to greater permeability of the skin to oxidizing and polluting agents.
It is therefore understandable to have the means to strengthen the skin barrier and protect the skin from oxidative stress.
The Applicant has already proposed using an immortelle essential oil, rich in terpene compounds, as an anti-aging agent, because of its anti-free radical and moisturizing properties (WO 03/018730), or to reinforce the barrier function (WO 2012 / 153064).
Among the other plants of the Mediterranean basin described as effective against oxidative stress, mention may be made of polyphenols (EP 3,069,710) or camosic acid (US 9,040,066) originating from marjoram or Origanum majorana. Other Mayjoram extracts are also known as anti-aging active ingredients. Thus, the BASF company markets, under the trade name Dermagenist®, an aqueous extract of maijaine rich in terpenes, for its inhibitory properties of DNA methylation. It is thus suggested that this extract could be useful for stimulating the formation of elastic fibers which degrade with age and under the effect of exposure to UV (FR 2 999 926).
However, there remains the need to propose a cosmetic composition which makes it possible to effectively combat the signs of skin aging and in particular to strengthen the skin barrier and the skin response to oxidative stress.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
The Applicant has demonstrated that the combination of a terpene extract of Origanum with an essential oil of immortelle synergistically activates the Nrf2 pathway which is known to be linked to the response to oxidative stress. The transcription factor Nrf2 is indeed a powerful transcription activator which plays a central role in the inducible expression of many cytoprotective genes in response to oxidative and electrophilic stress. The target genes of Nrf2 are particularly involved in the synthesis of glutathione, the elimination of reactive oxygen species and the enzymes of cell detoxification. The Applicant has also demonstrated an increase, also synergistic, in the expression of the genes involved in the epidermal differentiation process by the combination of a terpene extract of Origanum with an essential oil of immortelle. It thus appeared to the Applicant that the aforementioned combination made it possible to formulate a cosmetic composition effective against the signs of skin aging and / or drying of the skin.
In this context, the subject of the invention is a cosmetic composition comprising an essential oil of immortelle and a terpene extract of at least one plant of the genus Origanum.
It also relates to the use of the aforementioned composition to combat the signs of skin aging, in particular the formation of wrinkles, sagging skin and loss of radiance, due in particular to exposure to blue light. , UV, tobacco and / or pollution and / or to combat dryness of the skin.
The subject of the invention is also a cosmetic method for combating the signs of skin aging, in particular the formation of wrinkles, sagging skin and loss of radiance, due in particular to exposure to blue light, UV, tobacco and / or pollution, and / or to combat dryness of the skin, comprising the topical application to the skin of the above composition.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION
The present invention uses an immortelle essential oil. Among the immortelle species capable of being used according to the invention, mention will be made of all those belonging to the genus Helichrysum and in particular Helichrysum italicum (or Helichrysum angustifolium DC), which is the Italian immortal, Helichrysum arenarium, which is the sand immortelle, and Helichrysum stoechas or common immortelle, without this list being exhaustive. Preferably, an essential oil of Helichrysum italicum is used, whatever the subspecies considered.
The term essential oil is understood to mean in this description the product of hydrodistillation or of steam entrainment of volatile organic compounds present in any part of the immortelle or of the whole plant, and more particularly in its aerial parts such as for example its flowers or flowering tops.
The immortelle essential oil advantageously represents from 0.001 to 5% by weight and preferably from 0.001 to 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.
It is associated, in this composition, with a terpene extract of at least one plant of the genus Origanum, in particular of the species Origanum vulgare and Origanum majorana. Preferably, the plant of the genus Origanum belongs to the species Origanum majorana.
One can use an extract obtained from all or part of the plant of the genus Origanum, in particular the root, the stem, the bark, the flower, the seed, the germ and / or the leaf and preferably from the aerial parts chosen from the stem, the leaves and their mixtures, more preferably the leaves.
The extract can be obtained by any process suitable for the extraction of a majority fraction by weight of terpene compounds and in particular by extraction using a protic polar solvent comprising, preferably consisting of, at least one solvent chosen from water, a mono-alcohol (such as ethanol or isopropanol), a glycol (such as prepylene glycol or butylene glycol), a polyol (such as xylitol) and their mixtures. The extraction can be carried out cold (maceration) or hot, preferably at a temperature of 4 to 20 ° C. The amount of plant used can represent from 1 to 10% by weight, relative to the weight of solvent (s). The extraction step is generally followed by a step of separation of the solid materials and the supernatant, for example by centrifugation, recovery of the supernatant, in particular by filtration, and optionally distillation. The extract obtained can optionally be dried by atomization and / or lyophilization. Deodorization and / or bleaching steps of the extract can be carried out after extraction, at any stage of the process described above.
Such an extract of Origanum majorana is in particular available from the company BASF under the trade name Dermagenist®.
The oregano extract advantageously represents from 0.001 to 5% by weight and preferably from 0.01 to 0.4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.
As is apparent from the examples below, it has been demonstrated that the combination of plant extracts according to the invention makes it possible to synergistically activate the expression of the genes involved in the defense of the skin against oxidation phenomena and genes involved in the regulation of epidermal differentiation.
By synergy, it is meant in the context of this description that the effect obtained using the combination of extracts according to the invention is significantly greater than the effect obtained using any of the two extracts.
The above combination is included in a cosmetic composition which generally contains a physiologically acceptable medium, in particular cosmetically acceptable, that is to say which does not generate tingling or redness incompatible with cosmetic use. This medium preferably contains an aqueous phase (containing for example the extract of Origanum) and a fatty phase (generally containing the essential oil of immortelle). It is preferred that the composition is in the form of an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion or an oil-in-water dispersion.
The aqueous phase contains water and optionally at least one constituent chosen from polyols and aqueous gelling agents. Water advantageously represents from 40 to 80%, for example from 60 to 70%, of the total weight of the composition. The polyol can in particular be chosen from glycerine, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol and their mixtures and it can represent from 5 to 30%, preferably from 15 to 25%, of the total weight of the composition.
The term “aqueous gelling agent” denotes a polymeric compound capable of immobilizing water molecules by hydrating and thus increasing the viscosity of the aqueous phase. Such a gelling agent can be chosen from: polysaccharides, such as: cellulose and its derivatives, modified starches, carrageenan, agar agar, xanthan gum and vegetable gums such as guar or carob gum; synthetic polymers and in particular homopolymers of optionally crosslinked sodium acrylate, as well as acrylic copolymers, in particular copolymers of sodium acrylate and / or alkyl (meth) acrylate and / or d (meth) acrylate 'hydroxyalkyl and / or (polyethoxy) alkyl (meth) acrylate, with optionally at least one other monomer, advantageously 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid (AMPS), these copolymers being optionally crosslinked; and their mixtures.
For its part, the fatty phase may comprise one or more volatile and / or non-volatile oils. Examples of volatile oils are branched alkanes, such as isododecane, and linear C10-C13 alkanes. As non-volatile oils, there may be mentioned in particular:
- the esters of acids and of mono-alcohol chosen from: the mono- and polyesters of saturated linear acids in C2-C10 (preferably in C6-C10) and of linear saturated mono-alcohols in C10-C18 (preferably C10-C14), mono- and polyesters of C10-C20 saturated linear acids and branched or unsaturated C3-C20 mono-alcohols (preferably C3-C10); mono- and polyesters of branched or unsaturated C5-C20 acids and of branched or unsaturated C5-C20 mono-alcohols; mono- and polyesters of branched or unsaturated acids in C5-C20 and of linear mono-alcohols in C2-C4;
- triglycerides of fatty acids C6-C12, such as triglycerides of caprylic and capric acids and triheptanoin;
- branched and / or unsaturated C10-C20 fatty acids (such as linoleic, lauric and myristic acids);
- branched and / or unsaturated C10-C20 alcohols (such as octyldodecanol and oleyl alcohol);
- hydrocarbons such as squalane (C30), in particular vegetable squalane extracted from olive oil, and hemisqualane (Cl5);
- dialkyl carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonate and diethylhexyl carbonate;
- dialkyl ethers such as dicaprylyl ether; and
- their mixtures.
Mention may also be made of vegetable oils which contain one or more of the above-mentioned constituents.
As esters of acids and monoalcohols, mention may in particular be made of monoesters such as the mixture of coconut caprate and caprylate, ethyl macadamate, shea butter ethyl ester, isostearyl isostearate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl isononanoate, hexyl neopentanoate, ethylhexyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isopropyl myristate, octyldodecyl myristate, palmitate isopropyl, ethylhexyl palmitate, hexyl laurate, isoamyl laurate, cetostearyl nonanoate, propylheptyl capylate and mixtures thereof. Other esters which can be used are the diesters of acids and monoalcohols such as disopropyl adipate, diethylhexyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacate and diisoamyl sebacate.
Examples of vegetable oils are in particular the oils of wheat germ, sunflower, argan, hibiscus, coriander, grapeseed, sesame, corn, apricot, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soy, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cotton, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, sesame, squash, blackcurrant, evening primrose, lavender, borage, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, bancoulier, passionflower, muscat rose, Echium, camelina or camellia .
The fatty phase can also comprise at least one fatty phase structuring agent. The term “fatty phase structuring agent” means a compound capable of thickening the oils contained in the composition, chosen in particular from waxes, gelling agents for fatty phases and pasty fatty substances, as well as their mixtures.
According to a preferred embodiment, this composition also contains at least one anti-aging active agent, in particular an active agent suitable for preventing and / or treating wrinkles, sagging skin and / or the formation of pigment spots, which can in particular be chosen from anti-radical agents, agents which stimulate the differentiation and / or proliferation of keratinocytes and / or fibroblasts; agents stimulating the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans and / or collagen and / or dermoepidermal anchoring fibrils and / or elastic fibers; agents preventing degradation of collagen and / or glycosaminoglycans and / or dermoepidermal anchoring fibrils and / or elastic fibers; anti-glycation agents; depigmenting agents and / or inhibiting melanogenesis; and their mixtures.
Examples of such anti-aging active agents are in particular: ascorbic acid, its salts, its ethers and its esters, in particular ascorbyl glucoside; adenosine; ribose; honey extracts; proteins and glycoproteins, especially extracted from sweet almonds; hydrolyzed vegetable proteins, in particular from rice, hibiscus seeds or lupine; polypeptides and pseudodipeptides, such as carcinin hydrochloride, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 (Pal-Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser) and palmitoyl tripeptide-38 sold in particular by SEDERMA under the trade names Matrixyl® 3000 and Matrixyl ® Synthe'6, respectively, palmitoyl tripeptide-8 marketed by the company LUCAS MEYER under the commercial reference Nutrazen®, pentapeptide-18 marketed by the company LIPOTEC under the trade name Leuphasyl® Solution, sh-decapeptide-9 marketed by SANDREAM under the trade name Neoendorphin® and palmitoyl hexapeptide-52 marketed by the company INFINITEC under the trade reference X50 Myocept® Powder; silanes such as methylsilanol mannuronate; arabinoxylans, extracted in particular from rye flour and galactoarabinanes, produced in particular from larch; hyaluronic acid and its salts; polyphenols, extracted in particular from mimosa; alphahydroxy acids, including those extracted from lemon; extracts (generally aqueous) of plants such as water clover, wild pansy, field horsetail, Mafane (Acmella oleracea), donkey thistle (Onopordum acanthium), millefeuille (Achillea millefolium, contained in particular in the product Neurobiox® from the company BASF), the embelia (Embelia continua, as marketed by the company SEPPIC), the prickly pear (Opuntia ficus indica, marketed in particular by MIBELLE AG BIOCHEMISTRY under the trade name AquaCacteen®), the sage (Salvia officinalis, sold in particular by PROVITAL GROUP), Vitex negundo (marketed in particular by LABORATOIRES EXPANSCIENCE under the commercial reference Neurovity®), chestnut, papaya, argan, oats, sunflower, daisy, peony or dill; aqueous extracts of algae and in particular of coralline, red janie, Ungaria pinnatifada, Alaria esculenta or Nannochlorosis oculata essential oils, in particular myrtle; zinc and / or copper gluconates; and their mixtures.
As a variant or in addition, the composition used according to the invention may comprise at least one tensioning agent. It can be a tightening polymer, capable of tightening the skin by mechanical action and thus reducing the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines, in particular a polysaccharide, in particular an extract of algae or plankton. marine or vegetable gum. It can also be a tightening agent acting biologically of the "botox-like" type, for example, an extract of Acmella; oleracea marketed under the name of Gatuline® Expression by the company GATTEFOSSE; an extract of hibiscus seeds marketed under the name of Myoxinol® LS9736 by the company BASF BCS or else a peptide of Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 type marketed under the name of Argireline® by the company Lipotec
The composition according to the invention may also contain different constituents which can be dispersed in the fatty phase and / or in the aqueous phase of the emulsion, provided that these are compatible with topical application to the skin.
It can thus contain at least one oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsifier, generally nonionic, such as polyoxyethylene esters, optionally polyethoxylated sorbitan esters, optionally polyethoxylated fatty acid esters of glycerol, ethers of fatty alcohols and sugar such as alkyl glucosides, and mixtures thereof. The emulsifiers can represent from 2 to 10% and preferably from 4 to 6% of the total weight of the composition. However, it is preferred that the composition according to the invention be devoid of emulsifier.
The composition according to the invention can also comprise one or more pulverulent fillers, which advantageously take the form of porous or hollow microparticles, preferably porous. These microparticles are in principle substantially spherical. These charges can in particular be chosen from:
- organic fillers such as: powders of polysaccharides and in particular of native starch, modified starch or cellulose; powders of acrylic polymers such as poly (methyl methacrylate), polyamides or polyolefins; dried seaweed powders such as Corallina officinalis
- inorganic fillers such as silica, clays, perlite and talc;
- and their mixtures.
As the inorganic filler, it is preferred to use silica.
These fillers can represent from 1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to the invention can also comprise additives chosen in particular from organic and / or inorganic photoprotective agents, active in blue light and / or UVA and / or UVB; film-forming polymers based on polysaccharides, capable of forming an anti-pollution protective film, such as the products marketed by SOLABIA under the trade names Pollustop® and Solashield®; desquamating agents such as a- and βhydroxy acids; exfoliating particles; perfumes ; antioxidants; sequestering agents; pH adjusters; preservatives; pigments; dyes; and their mixtures.
This composition can be in any form suitable for topical application to the skin and in particular in the form of milk, cream, lotion, gel, paste or film. It is generally a leave-in composition and in particular a care composition, a makeup composition, such as a foundation, or a sunscreen composition.
The composition according to the invention can be applied to at least one area of the body of a person showing signs of skin aging (for example at least 30 years, or even at least 40 years, and more particularly on the face , the neck and / or the décolleté.Alternatively, it can be applied to the whole body, in particular to the bust, arms, legs and belly in order to combat dryness of the skin.
This composition can be applied once or several times a day, for example morning and / or evening, to the areas to be treated.
As a variant, the composition according to the invention may be a rinsed composition used for caring for the skin, in particular the face and possibly the body. In this case, it can for example be used as a mask or as a scrub paste.
EXAMPLES
The invention will be better understood in the light of the following examples, which are given purely by way of illustration and are not intended to limit the scope of the invention, defined by the appended claims.
Example 1: Ex-vivo test on the explant of human skin
A transcriptomic analysis was carried out in order to highlight the effect of the combination of plants according to the invention on the expression of certain skin genes.
The transcriptome is the set of messenger RNAs resulting from the expression of part of the genome in a given tissue or cell type. The characterization and quantification of the transcriptome make it possible to identify the genes regulated under particular conditions, to determine the regulatory mechanisms of these genes and to define the expression networks or activation pathways of these genes. One of the techniques used to simultaneously measure the level of expression of a large number of different messenger RNAs is that of the DNA chip. DNA chips make it possible to measure and quickly visualize differences in expression on the scale of a whole genome.
1) Materials and methods
Sample preparation
An aqueous extract of marjoram (Origanum majorana), an essential oil of immortelle or the combination of the two extracts were put in the presence of skin explants in survival. The immortelle essential oil was dissolved at 10% in dimethylsulfoxide (DMSO) before being applied to the culture medium. The marjoram extract was directly diluted in the culture medium.
skin explants from abdominal plasty from a 34-year-old patient were incubated independently, in the presence of Maijolaine extract, immortelle essential oil or their combination for 24 hours in a “skin culture medium” from Biopredic at 37 ° C at 5% CO2 in a humid atmosphere (98%) at the air-liquid interface. 4 skin explants not treated or treated with 1% DMSO solvent were incubated under the same conditions.
Table 1 below summarizes the concentrations applied for each composition.
Composition Percentage (%)
Marjoram extract 0.4 Immortelle essential oil 0.1 Marjoram extract 0.4 andimmortelle essential oil 0.1
Table 1
Extraction of total RNA s
After incubation, the skin explants were ground in the buffer recommended by the manufacturer of the RNeasy mini kit RNA extraction kit (Qiagen, Hilden, Germany) and then the total RNAs were extracted using this same kit. The total RNAs were quantified and then their quality was checked using the BlOanalyzer 2100 electrophoresis device with its RNA 6000 Nano LabChip Kit (Agilent Technologies, Santa Clara, USA).
Measurement of gene expression on oligonucleotide chip and data acquisition:
The 60m oligonucleotide arrays on 1 ”x 3” glass coverslips (SurePrint G3 Human Gene Expression 8x60K v2 Microarray - G4851B, Agilent Technologies, Santa Clara, USA) were used for gene expression analysis.
Documentation and the complete experimental protocol are available on the Agilent Technologies website.
In short, the reverse transcription and amplification of total RNA into cDNA and then into cRNA and their labeling with cyanine 3 is carried out using the Low Input Quick Amp Labeling kit (Agilent Technologies). The purification of the cRNAs was carried out using the RNeasy mini kit (Qiagen, Hilden, Germany) and the hybridization with the Microarray hybridization chamber kit (Agilent Technologies, Santa Clara, USA). The chips were then scanned using the SureScan scanner (Agilent Technologies, Santa Clara, USA) and the Scan control software (Agilent Technologies, Santa Clara, USA). The scanned images were then extracted and normalized with the Feature Extraction software (Agilent Technologies, Santa Clara, USA).
The statistical analysis of the data was carried out using Genespring GX 13 software (Agilent Technologies, Santa Clara, USA).
Ingenuity Pathways Analysis software (Ingenuity® Pathway Analysis (IPA), Ingenuity Systems, Redwood City, CA, USA - http://www.ingenuity.com) was then used to analyze and predict the activation state of the pathways products modulated by Marjoram extract, immortelle essential oil or their combination.
For each treatment condition, 4 independent labeling experiments were carried out (ie 4 oligonucleotide chips per condition, corresponding to the 4 skin explants treated independently for each condition) to increase the reproducibility of the data.
The genes expressed by the treated skin explants were considered to be induced or inhibited if their level of differential expression was greater than a factor of 2 compared to those of the control explants. The untreated explants served as a control for the condition treated with Marjoram extract and the explants treated with 1% DMSO solvent served as a control for the condition treated with immortal essential oil or the combination of l extract of Marjoram and immortelle essential oil. A moderate Student test corrected for the false positive rate was applied with the Benjamini & Hochberg procedure using GeneSpring software in order to calculate the statistical difference in gene expression between the explants not treated or treated with the solvent DMSO and the explants treated with assets or their association. Genes with a p-value less than or equal to 0.05 were considered to be differentially expressed.
These genes were then analyzed by the Ingenuity Pathways Analysis software. This software allows a functional analysis of the regulated genes under the different treatment conditions, an analysis of the signaling pathways in which these genes are registered and the analysis of the regulators upstream of these pathways. A Z-score (reduced centered variable) was calculated by the software with respect to the significantly regulated genes. A Z-score> 2 or <-2 indicates in a 99% confidence interval that the induced or suppressed biological pathways are not only by chance, but very specifically.
2) Results
2a) Antioxidant defenses: activation of the Nrf2 pathway
The table below shows the difference in expression of the genes which are involved in the antioxidant defense pathway of Nrf2 following the treatment of skin explants with Marjoram extract, immortelle essential oil and their association. .
GENOA I Symbol English name Function of the protein encoded by the gene Mid ABCC1 ATP binding cassette subfamily C member 1 Allows the transport of reduced and oxidized forms of glutathione across the plasma membrane and plays a role in protection against xenobioticsACTA1 actin, alpha 1, skeletal muscle Structural proteinsACTB actin beta ATF4 activating transcription factor 4 Protein interacting with Nrf2 (cofactor)Cdc34 cell division cycle 34 Belongs to the family of ubiquitin conjugation enzymes involved in the proteasome pathway and protein repairDNAJA1 DnaJ heat shock protein family (Hsp40) member Al DNAJB1 DnaJ heat shock protein family (Hsp40) member B1 DNA JB 5 DnaJ heat shock protein family (Hsp40) member B5 Chaperone proteins protecting against oxidative stressDNAJB9 DnaJ heat shock protein family (Hsp40) member B9 DNAJC5 DnaJ heat shock protein family (Hsp40) member C5 EIF2AK3 eukaryotic translation initiation factor 2 alpha kinase 3 Activates a signaling cascade leading to an overall reduction in protein synthesis
F0SL1 FOS like 1, AP-1 transcription factor subunit FOS proteins are regulators of cell proliferation and differentiationFTH1 ferritin heavy chain 1 These genes code for subunits of the protein ferritinFTL ferritin light chain major for intracellular storage of iron ionsGSK3 glycogen synthase kinase 3 beta Could be involved in the degradation of Nrf2GSTO1 omega 1 glutathione S-transferase Antioxidant activityHERPUD1 inducible homocysteine ER protein with ubiquitin like domain 1 Plays a role in protein breakdownHM0X1 heme oxygenase 1 Plays an essential role in the catabolism of ThemeHSPB8 heat shock protein family B(small) member 8 Contributes to the proteolytic degradation of proteins with folding defectsIrs2 insulin receptor sub stratum 2 Transmits mitogenic and anti-apoptotic signals from the insulin receptorMY F MAF bZIP transcription factor Negatively regulates gene expression of detoxifying enzymes by dimerizing with MAFG. Prevents dimerization of MAFG and NRF2MAFG MAF bZIP transcription factor G Dimerizes with Nrf2 facilitating its attachment to the antioxidant response elements present in the promoter region of genes regulated by Nrf2MAP3K5 mitogen-activated protein kinase kinase kinase 5 Involved in the response to oxidative stressMAPK8 mitogen-activated protein kinase 8 Code for the protein JNK1. Nrf2 is transported to the nucleus under the control of the ERK and JNK signaling pathwaysMAPK14 mitogen-activated protein kinase 14 Signaling pathway involved in proliferation and differentiation
NQ02 NOT-ribosyldihydronicotinamide: quinone reductase 2 Detoxification enzyme induced by Nrf2 activationPIK3C2B phosphatidylinositol-4phosphate 3-kinase catalytic subunit type 2 beta Plays a role in proliferation, survival and migrationPIK3C2G phosphatidylinositol-4phosphate 3-kinase catalytic subunit type 2 gamma cell, as well as intracellular protein transportPRKCD protein kinase C delta PRKCH protein kinase C eta Promotes the translocation of Nrf2 to the nucleusPRKCI protein kinase C iota RRAS2 related viral RAS (r-ras) oncogene homolog 2 Could activate signaling pathways controlling normal cell growth and differentiationSQSTM1 sequestosome 1 Part of the p62 / SQSTMl complex, this complex is activated by NRf2. p62 sequesters Klfl for autophagic degradation thus allowing stabilization of Nrf2TXNIP thioredoxin interacting protein Inhibits the antioxidant function of thioredoxin resulting in an accumulation of oxidative oxygen speciesTXNRD1 thioredoxin reductase 1 Protects cells from oxidative stress and is induced by Nrf2
The Z-score of the NRF-2 antioxidant defense pathway in response to the treatment of skin explants with Marjoram extract, immortelle essential oil and their association was calculated by the software used and is indicated in Table 2 below.
Extract ofMarjoram OilEssential (HE)Immortal Extract ofMarjoram and HEImmortal NRF-2 channel -1 1,069 2,449
Table 2
From this table, it appears that the marjoram extract, used alone, tends to inhibit the NRF-2 pathway, unlike immortelle essential oil. These effects are not, however, significant. On the other hand, it appears that the combination of the two extracts results in a clear activation of the NRF-2 pathway, which demonstrates the synergistic effect of these two extracts.
2b) Epidermal differentiation: Increase in the barrier function
Table 3 below shows the difference in expression of the genes which are involved in epidermal differentiation following the treatment of skin explants with Marjoram extract, immortelle essential oil and their association.
GENOA Expressisorting Symbol English name Function of the protein encoded by the gene Marjolain ABCA12 ATP binding cassette subfamily A member 12 Involved in the transport of cholesterol in the skin and is involved in the maintenance of the epidermal lipid barrier 2,018 ALOXE3 arachidonatelipoxygenase 3 Intervenes in a critical metabolic pathway for maintaining the barrier function of the skinANXA1 annexin Al Location of this protein in keratinocytes enriched in tonofilaments. Plays a role in the formation of the keratinocyte cytoskeleton.CAMP cathelicidinantimicrobial peptide Plays an essential role in the skin's immune defense against bacterial infections 4.17
CDH1 cadherin 1 Belongs to the family of epithelial cadherins which are calcium-dependent adhesion proteins that form intercellular junctions. CDH1 is only functionally active in differentiated keratinocytes forming organized intercellular junctions.CERS3 ceramide synthase 3 Synthesizes certain ceramides of the skin. Maintaining the barrier function.CNFN cornifelin Constituent of the horny envelope 4,441 CYP27B1 cytochrome P450 family 27 subfamilyB member 1 Plays an important role in the metabolism of vitamin D and the maintenance of calcium homeostasis and epidermal differentiation 2,361 DEFB4A /DEFB4B defensin beta 4A Antimicrobial peptide which participates in the immune defense of the skin 13.089 DSG3 desmoglein 3 A calcium-dependent transmembrane glycoprotein that binds to the other proteins that make up desmosomes. It is mainly expressed in the basal part of the epidermis
EGF epidermal growthfactor Growth factor that stimulates the proliferation and differentiation of keratinocytesELF3 E74 like ETStranscription factor 3 Transcription factor involved in epidermal differentiation 4,481 EL0VL4 ELOVL fatty acid elongase 4 Participates in the synthesis of epidermal ceramides by catalyzing the first reaction of the lengthening cycle of long chain fatty acids. 2,761 EphA2 EPH receptor A2 Tyrosine kinase receptor triggering the differentiation of keratinocytes. 2,356 EREG epiregulin Member of the family of epidermal growth factors (EGF). Growth factor regulating the proliferation and differentiation of keratinocytes. 2,166 ERRFI1 ERBB receptorfeedback inhibitor 1 Regulator of epidermal differentiation, helps maintain the epidermal barrierFABP5 fatty acid binding protein 5 Induces the differentiation of keratinocytes by increasing the transcriptional activity of receptors activated by peroxisomes (PPARs) by transporting fatty acids directly to PPARs
FLG filaggrin Filaggrin (synthesized in the form of a precursor, profilaggrin) is a protein whose role is to aggregate the intermediate keratin filaments during the formation of the corneal envelope -2.633 FGF7 fibroblast growthfactor 7 Epithelial cell specific growth factor (also called KGF for Keratinocyte Growth Factor) whose mitogenic activity is mainly demonstrated in keratinocytes.GRHL1 grainyhead liketranscription factor 1 Transcription factor involved in epithelial development. Regulator of epidermal differentiation, helps maintain the epidermal barrierGRHL2 grainyhead liketranscription factor 1 Inhibits the differentiation of keratinocytes by epigenetic mechanismsGRHL3 grainyhead liketranscription factor 3 Essential protein for forming the epidermal barrier 2,149 HBPI HMG-boxtranscription factor 1 Involved in the differentiation of keratinocytes
HGF hepatocyte growthfactor Growth factor regulating cell growth, cell motility and morphogenesis. It stimulates mitosis especially during tissue regenerationH0XA7 homeobox A7 Suppresses the expression of genes regulating differentiation during the proliferation of keratinocytesITGB1 integrin subunit beta1 Adhesion protein of basal keratinocytes at the epidermal junction. Component of hemidesmosomesJUP junction plakoglobin Major cytoplasmic component of desmosomesKLF5 Kruppel like factor 5 Transcription factor increasing the proliferation of keratinocytesKRT6B Keratin 6B Structural protein involved in the keratinization of the epidermisLATS2 large tumorsuppressor kinase 2 Interacts with centrosome proteins, it is essential for the initiation of mitosis and involved in the differentiation of keratinocytesLCE3A late cornifiedenvelope 3A Protein component of the corneal envelope 9,888 LCE3C late cornifiedenvelope 3C 6,177
LCE3D late cornified3D envelope4,761 LCE3E late cornifiedenvelope 3E 5,068 LOR loricrin Major protein component of the corneal envelope -2.097 OVOL2 ovo like zinc finger 2 Regulates cell proliferation in the basal layer of the epidermis -2.291 PLK1 polo like kinase 1 Strongly expressed during mitosis, it is necessary for cell proliferationPPARA peroxisome proliferator activated receptor alpha Regulates epidermal differentiationPPARD peroxisome proliferator activated receptor delta 2,764 PRKCH protein kinase C eta Regulates the differentiation of keratinocytesS100A7 S100 calcium binding protein A7 Protein components of the corneal envelope 2,717
S100A11 S100 calcium binding protein Garlic SPRR1A small proline rich protein IA Components of the corneal envelope 4,665 SPRR1B small proline rich protein IB 2,544 TGM1 transglutaminase 1 Involved in the formation of the corneal envelope by creating 4,557 TGM3 transglutaminase 3 bridges between the proteins that constitute it.TP63 tumor protein p63 Transcription factor involved in skin development which inhibits epidermal differentiationWNT16 Wnt family member16 Expression of WNT16B increases the rate of proliferating cells and prolongs the clonogenicity of primary keratinocytes -2.096 ZFP36 ZFP36 ring finger protein Influence the differentiation of keratinocytes
This table shows that certain genes involved in the differentiation of keratinocytes are upregulated and others which inhibit the differentiation of keratinocytes are downregulated. In addition, growth factor genes (HGF, epiregulin) are also upregulated allowing the reserve of proliferative keratinocytes to be maintained. All of these genes will strengthen the epidermal barrier.
3) Conclusion
This example demonstrates by an ex-vivo transcriptomic analysis by DNA chips that the composition of the invention makes it possible to stimulate the genes involved in particular in the renewal of the epidermis and the management of oxidative stress, thus making it possible to combat the aging of the skin due in particular to external aggressions generating oxidative stress, and strengthening the barrier function of the skin.
Example 2 Cosmetic Composition
The following composition is prepared in a conventional manner for those skilled in the art, by mixing the ingredients below in the weight proportions indicated.
Immortelle essential oil 0.01-0.1%
Marjoram leaf extract 0.2-0.8%
Adenosine 0.05%
Oils 5-15%
Oily gelling agents 1-5%
Aqueous gelling agents 1-3%
Polyols 20-25%
Séquestrantqs
Anti-oxydantsqs
Parfumqs
Conservateursqs
Water qs 100%

权利要求:
Claims (8)
[1" id="c-fr-0001]
1. Cosmetic composition comprising an essential oil of immortelle and a terpene extract of at least one plant of the genus Origanum.
[2" id="c-fr-0002]
2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the immortelle is chosen from the species Helichrysum italicum, Helichrysum arenarium and Helichrysum stoechas, preferably Helichrysum italicum.
[3" id="c-fr-0003]
3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the essential oil of immortelle is obtained from the aerial parts of the plant, in particular from its flowers or flowering tops.
[4" id="c-fr-0004]
4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the plant of the genus Origanum belongs to the species Origanum majorana.
[5" id="c-fr-0005]
5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the extract ^ Origanum. is obtained from the aerial parts of the plant chosen from the stem, the leaves and their mixtures, more preferably the leaves.
[6" id="c-fr-0006]
6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the extract of) Origanum is obtained by extraction using a polar protic solvent comprising, preferably consisting of, at least one selected solvent among water, a mono-alcohol (such as ethanol or isopropanol), a glycol (such as propylene glycol or butylene glycol), a polyol (such as xylitol) and their mixtures.
[7" id="c-fr-0007]
7. Use of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6 for combating the signs of skin aging, in particular the formation of wrinkles, sagging skin and loss of radiance of the complexion, due in particular to exposure UV and / or blue light, tobacco and / or pollution and / or to combat dryness of the skin.
[8" id="c-fr-0008]
8. Cosmetic process to fight against the signs of skin aging, in particular the formation of wrinkles, sagging skin and loss of radiance of the complexion, due in particular to exposure to UV and / or blue light, to tobacco and / or pollution, and / or for combating dryness of the skin, comprising the topical application to the skin of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6.

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同族专利:

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公开号 | 公开日

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WO2019002714A1|2019-01-03|

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FR3068251B1|2019-08-23|

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CN110913957A|2020-03-24|

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EP3645127A1|2020-05-06|

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US20200113959A1|2020-04-16|

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JP2020525492A|2020-08-27|

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CN106038385A|2016-06-08|2016-10-26|广州市创美时美容化妆品有限公司|Cosmetic composition capable of stimulating collagen generation for wrinkle resistance|WO2020242516A1|2019-05-27|2020-12-03|Codex Beauty Llc|Skin treatment composition and preservation system|

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US11141373B2|2019-06-14|2021-10-12|Codex Beauty Corporation|Natural skin care compositions and methods for treating oxidative stress and restoring skin health|

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CN113905717A|2019-06-14|2022-01-07|蔻代丝美妆股份有限公司|Natural skin care compositions and methods for treating oxidative stress and restoring skin health|

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US11141374B2|2019-06-14|2021-10-12|Codex Beauty Corporation|Natural skin care compositions and methods for treating oxidative stress and restoring skin health|

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CN111700830A|2020-06-29|2020-09-25|广州睿森生物科技有限公司|Composition and application thereof in preparation of anti-glycosylation cosmetics|

法律状态:
2019-01-04| PLSC| Search report ready|Effective date: 20190104 |

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2019-06-18| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 3 |

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2020-06-08| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 4 |

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2021-06-18| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 5 |

优先权:

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申请号 | 申请日 | 专利标题

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FR1756021A|FR3068251B1|2017-06-29|2017-06-29|COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING ESSENTIAL IMMORTELLE OIL AND EXTRACT OF ORIGANUM|

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FR1756021|2017-06-29|FR1756021A| FR3068251B1|2017-06-29|2017-06-29|COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING ESSENTIAL IMMORTELLE OIL AND EXTRACT OF ORIGANUM|

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CN201880043189.9A| CN110913957A|2017-06-29|2018-06-14|Cosmetic composition comprising an essential oil of Helichrysum and an extract of oregano|

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PCT/FR2018/051412| WO2019002714A1|2017-06-29|2018-06-14|Cosmetic composition comprising an essential oil of immortelle and an extract of origanum|

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JP2019572204A| JP2020525492A|2017-06-29|2018-06-14|Cosmetic composition containing the essential oil of Immortelle and the extract of Origanum|

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EP18748977.8A| EP3645127A1|2017-06-29|2018-06-14|Cosmetic composition comprising an essential oil of immortelle and an extract of origanum|

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US16/626,586| US20200113959A1|2017-06-29|2018-06-14|Cosmetic composition comprising an essential oil of immortelle and an extract of origanum|