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    • 专利摘要:
    The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for topical application to the skin comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one effective amount of at least one aqueous extract of rose and at least one oily extract of rose, and its use in particular to promote the natural rhythmic process of the cutaneous cells and / or to improve the micro-nutritional balance of the skin.
    公开号:FR3066388A1
    申请号:FR1754304
    申请日:2017-05-16
    公开日:2018-11-23
    发明作者:Marc Dumas；Jocelyne Franchi；Valentin Jeronimo；Virginie Pecher；Kristell Lazou
    申请人:LVMH Recherche GIE；
    IPC主号:
    专利说明:

    FIELD OF THE INVENTION
    The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising at least one aqueous extract of rose and one oily extract of rose, and their use in particular for promoting the natural rhythmic process of skin cells and / or improving the micronutrient balance of the skin.
    STATE OF THE ART
    It is well known that the quality of nutrition is reflected in the health of the skin and that certain skin disorders are associated with deficiencies, in particular in certain micronutrients (Park K. Role of micronutrients in skin health and function. Biomol.Ther. 2015; 23; 207-217). The micro-nutritional balance of the skin can indeed be affected by external and / or internal factors, such as for example fatigue, stress, oxidizing effects, UV exposure, and / or cell senescence.
    In particular, we observe in subjects subjected to such factors:
    - a lower level of hydration (this difference increases with age);
    - a deficit in essential fatty acids (omega 3 and omega 6);
    - a deficit in long chain fatty acids making up ceramides (less good barrier function); and or
    - a lower content of squalene (alteration of the protective hydrolipid film of the skin surface).
    These observations highlight imbalances, particularly concerning micronutrients.
    It is known that these nutrients, or nutritional constituents, participate at the cutaneous level in particular in the establishment of an environment favorable to the reconstruction of the barrier function, to the hydration of the skin and therefore, ultimately, to a rejuvenated skin. and less vulnerable to premature aging.
    Micronutrients are essential for the development and formation of the skin (organ in constant evolution), the physiological renewal of the epidermis and the adaptation of the skin to its environment (role of protective envelope). They each have a specific role, complementary functions that cover the many facets of skin metabolism (Park K. Rôle of micronutrients in skin health and function. Biomol.Ther. 2015, 23: 207-217; Polefka T. Interaction of oreai salts with the skin: a literature survey. Int J. Cosmetic. Sci. 2012, 34: 416-423; Boelsma E. Nutritiaonal skin care: health effects of micronutrients and fatty acids. Am. J. Clin. Nutr. 2001,73: 853-864; Winkler P. Minerais and the skin in Nutrition and the skin-Lessons for anti-aging, beauty and healthy skin. 2011, Apostolos Papas Editor; Chap 7: 91-109), and mainly:
    - participate in antioxidant protection (vitamins A, E, vitamin C, zinc, selenium);
    - are essential for the metabolism of lipids, carbohydrates or proteins (vitamins B3, B5, vitamin C for the synthesis of collagen), for the production of energy (vitamin B2, magnesium);
    - contribute to the proper functioning of enzymes, by providing the metal ions necessary for their activity (copper, manganese, selenium, zinc, iron);
    - regulate epidermal differentiation (calcium);
    - are involved in the maintenance of the membrane potential, in the balance of fluids, and have a role in the skin in hydration (potassium and sodium);
    - participate in the strengthening of the hydrolipidic film which helps the skin to retain its elasticity and suppleness (Essential Fatty Acids):
    . linoleic acid (omega 6) is involved in the manufacture of cell membranes, and is used in the composition of ceramides;
    . alpha-linolenic acid (omega 3) is also involved in membrane fluidity and these EPA derivatives (eicosapentaenoic acid) and DHA (docosahexaenoic acid) are known for their anti-inflammatory properties;
    . oleic acid (omega 9, non-essential) is known for its nourishing, repairing and healing properties.
    The use of vitamins (A, E, C) and / or essential fatty acids is known in the formulation of cosmetic compositions intended for the skin, in particular for their protective and / or nutritional effect, but there remains the need for new compounds making it possible to maintain and / or promote the nutritional balance of the skin and therefore stimulate hydration, the skin barrier, and / or regeneration of the skin.
    However, it has been shown that many metabolic pathways are under the control of clock genes, present in each cell of the organism.
    Skin cells also have such clock genes that function circadian and autonomously, thus constituting a functional cellular biological clock (Sandu C. Human skin keratinocytes, melanocytes, and fibroblasts contain distinct circadian dock machineries Cell. Mol. Life Sci. 2012, 19 : 3329-3339). These clock genes control the rhythm and intensity of expression of genes involved in the quality of the surface and the skin barrier, in hydration, in the resistance and / or regeneration of the skin.
    The analysis of the rhythmic expression of clock genes in the keratinocytes of the epidermis makes it possible to subdivide the 24 hours of a day into 5 successive periods. Each of the periods corresponds to the expression of a cohort of genes involved in different metabolic pathways; more than 5,000 genes are under their control. Among these metabolic pathways are that of lipid metabolism (synthesis of ceramides, transport of fatty acids, etc.), that of glucose metabolism and calcium homeostasis: synthesis and organization of skin barrier lipids, use glucose, epidermal maturation under the control of calcium all important in skin nutrition. These metabolic pathways have been shown to be under the control of 4 Period 1 (PERI), Period 2 (PER2), Period 3 (PER3) and Cryptochrome Circadian Clock 2 (CRY2) clock genes (Janich P., Human epidermal stem cell function is regulated by circadian oscillations. Cell Stem Cell 2013, 13, 1-9).
    Unexpectedly, the Applicant has demonstrated the in vitro effect of an aqueous extract of rose and the effect of an oily extract of rose on the stimulation of the expression of several clock genes on normal human epidermal keratinocytes in culture, with in particular complementary effects: the aqueous extract of rose according to the invention plays a role on the expression of the genes CRY2, PERI and PER3 whereas the oily extract of rose according to the invention plays a role on the of the PER2 gene. The use of an aqueous extract of rose and an oily extract of rose is therefore advantageous for maintaining and / or stimulating the natural rhythmic process of the skin cells, essential for the aforementioned metabolic pathways.
    In parallel, the Applicant has also observed the effects of these extracts on the target genes of these clock genes involved in particular in lipid metabolism and barrier function: thus, the oily extract of rose ('Satin Oil') stimulates in keratinocytes human expression of ceramide synthase (CERS3) involved in lipid metabolism, calmodulin 3 (CALM3) which binds calcium and participates in particular in the regulation of the cell cycle, keratin 1 (KRT1) involved in cell differentiation Gap junction alpha-1 protein (GjA1) also known as Connexin 43 (Cx43) involved in cell communication and transport and Desmocollin 3 (DSC3) involved in cell cohesion; the aqueous extract of rose ('Cryoextract of rose') stimulates in human keratinocytes the protein expression of keratin 10 (KRT10), marker of the maturation of the epidermis and desmoglein 1 (DSG1), epidermal cohesion marker.
    Preferably, these two extracts of rose are used according to the invention in a formulation allowing their potential to be fully expressed: thus, each extract of rose, depending on its polarity, is used respectively in the aqueous phase for the aqueous extract and in the fatty or oily phase for the oily extract, thus allowing them a better dispersion for an optimized effectiveness after application to the skin.
    SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
    A first object of the invention relates to a cosmetic composition for topical application to the skin comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least an effective amount of at least one aqueous extract of rose and at least one oily extract of rose.
    Another subject of the invention relates to a cosmetic process intended to promote the natural rhythmic process of the skin cells and / or the micro-nutritional balance of the skin, comprising the application to the skin, in particular of the body, the face and / or the neck and in particular the face and / or the neck, of a cosmetic composition as defined according to the invention.
    The term “natural rhythmic process of skin cells” according to the invention means in particular the natural process involving the clock genes of skin cells which function in a circadian and autonomous manner, the role of which is to control the rhythm and intensity of expression. target genes involved in many metabolic pathways in the skin cells.
    By “micro-nutritional balance of the skin” according to the invention, is meant in particular the presence of micronutrients present naturally in the skin, in balanced quantity and diversity, provided in particular by food.
    The invention also relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of at least an effective amount of at least one aqueous extract of rose and at least one oily extract of rose in a cosmetic composition, as an agent intended to promote and / or improve the natural rhythmic process of skin cells, the micro-nutritional balance of the skin, the lipid metabolism of the skin, the skin barrier function, hydration and / or regeneration of the skin.
    In particular, the effective amount of at least one aqueous extract of rose and at least one oily extract of rose stimulates the expression of genes of the epidermal clock and the expression of target genes of the epidermal clock, involved especially in lipid metabolism, skin barrier, cell differentiation, cell communication and / or cell cohesion.
    DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
    The invention therefore relates to a cosmetic composition for topical application to the skin comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least an effective amount of at least one aqueous extract of rose and at least one oily extract of rose.
    The aqueous extract of rose and the oily extract of rose are present in the cosmetic composition of the invention in an amount effective to obtain the desired effect.
    In particular, they will be respectively present in contents ranging from 0.1 to 10%, in particular from 0.5 to 5%, or even from 1% to 4% by weight of raw material relative to the total weight of the composition. Illustrative examples are given below.
    According to a particular and preferred embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic composition of the invention comprises at least one aqueous phase comprising said aqueous extract of rose and at least one fatty or oily phase comprising said oily extract of rose.
    Plant material
    The extracts of the invention are extracts of rose. We will talk indifferently according to the invention of an extract of rose, an extract of rosebush or an extract of the genus Rosa.
    This extract can be chosen from the different parts of the plant or their mixtures, in particular a leaf extract, a flower extract (petals), a sepals extract, a wood extract (stems) or their mixture.
    Advantageously, it will be an extract of flowers, and in particular an extract of fresh flowers.
    The genus Rosa includes more than 1000 species among which we can mention Rosa damascena, Rosa multiflora, Rosa centifolia, Rosa rugosa, Rosa chinensis, Rosa moschata, Rosa alba, Rosa alpina, Rosa canina, Rosa cinnamonea, Rosa gallica, Rosa repens, Rosa rubrifolia, Rosa rubiginosa, Rosa sempervirens, Rosa spinosissima, Rosa stylosa, Rosa tomentosa, or Rosa villosa.
    Those skilled in the art will preferably choose roses selected with disease resistance, vigorous and flowering capacities, in particular with pastel shades and whose properties are preserved by an environment and an organic farming method. According to a particular and preferred mode, an extract of rose flowers of the Evanrat variety or rose ‘Jardin de Granville®’ will be used.
    The 'Jardin de Granville® rosebush or rose is a hybrid variety offered exclusively by "Old Roses André Eve SAS" and protected by Plant Breeders' Certificate under the number 20110345 with the name Rosa L. for the species and the variety name EVANRAT. This bush rose belongs to the group of modern hybrids, which, from May to October, is permanently covered with roses, thus showing an excellent uplifting character. It is found in particular under the name INCI ‘Rosa Hybrid Flower Extract’.
    Thus, according to a particular and preferred embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the aqueous extract of rose and the oily extract of rose are extracts of rose flower, preferably extracts rose flower of the Evanrat variety or Jardin de Granville® rose.
    The rose extracts according to the invention are extracts concentrated in natural compounds, respectively in polar natural compounds for the aqueous extract and in apolar natural compounds for the oily extract. The extracts according to the invention are distinct from rose essential oils or rose waters. These are extracts in particular of rose flowers implementing the extraction of natural compounds of rose flowers in the presence of solvents, respectively aqueous (polar) or oily (apolar), and an implementation in the formulation, in the form of an aqueous or oily solution or concentrate, the solvent for the concentrate possibly being the extraction solvent and / or an additional solvent.
    The inventors have in fact demonstrated that the extracts of rose according to the invention comprise micronutrients and natural compounds of interest for the skin, and that the combined use of a polar (aqueous) extract of rose and a apolar extract (oily) of rose made it possible, in the same cosmetic composition, to bring all the nutritional and sensory benefits of the rose.
    As polar natural compounds of interest present in the aqueous extract of rose according to the invention, there may be mentioned in particular:
    - vitamins B3 and B5, antioxidants,
    - minerals and trace elements, allies of skin protection and repair systems,
    - sugars (sucrose, glucose, fructose) at the heart of the skin's energy processes,
    - flavonoid-type polyphenols (such as kampferol and quercetin derivatives), carrying anti-radical activities, and
    - amino acids, source of vitality and constituents of proteins for the cell.
    As apolar natural compounds of interest present in the oily extract of rose according to the invention, there may be mentioned in particular:
    fat-soluble vitamins such as vitamin E or α-tocopherol, antioxidant,
    - omega-3, 6 and 9 and fatty acids participating in resilience and epidermal tissue dynamics,
    - antioxidant phyto-nutrients, preserving and strengthening the skin, β-sitosterol and stigmasterol sterols, modulators of immunity and cholesterol metabolism and
    - apolar phenols with antioxidant and anti-microbial properties.
    The aqueous and oily extracts of rose according to the invention can be obtained according to various methods known to a person skilled in the art and in particular those described below.
    According to a particular and preferred mode, freshly harvested flowers of the Evanrat variety, preferably the Rose de Granville® rose, will be used as plant material in the extraction processes adapted to the invention described below. ie for less than 24 hours and frozen spread in thin layers at -25 ° C approximately.
    Aqueous extract of rose (otherwise called "Cryo extract" in the illustrative examples of the invention)
    We will talk indifferently of aqueous extract or polar extract or hydrophilic extract of rose in the description. The aqueous extract of rose is advantageously obtained by means of a cosmetically acceptable polar solvent.
    By "aqueous rose extract" according to the invention, it is understood in particular that the polar (hydrophilic) compounds of the rose flowers have dissolved and / or have been extracted in a polar solvent.
    Prior to the extraction stage itself, the flowers may have been dried and / or ground. Advantageously, freshly harvested flowers are used.
    The extract can be prepared by various extraction methods known to a person skilled in the art, using stages of grinding the plant material, dispersion of the ground material in a polar solvent, separation of the soluble and insoluble phases by filtration, concentration and possible re-solution.
    According to the present invention, the expression “polar solvent” means that the solvent has a value of Polarity index which is equal to or greater than a value of 4. The polarity index is a quantity calculated on the basis of thermodynamic quantities (of solubility and change of state) which highlights the more or less polar character of a molecule. Reference is made, for the polarity indices of the solvents, to the article by L.R. SNYDER: Classification of the solvent properties of common liquids; Journal of Chromatography, 92 (1974), 223-230.
    The preferred polar solvents are those consisting of a compound comprising at least one polar covalent bond of O-H type. As a particularly preferred polar solvent, a solvent or a mixture of solvents chosen is chosen from water, C1-C4 alcohols, such as ethanol, glycols, such as ethylene glycol, glycerol, butylene glycol and propylene glycol, and mixtures thereof. Advantageously, water, ethanol or their mixture will be used.
    According to a particular embodiment, the plant material is extracted using a hydro-alcoholic mixture, advantageously a mixture of water and ethanol. In particular, the plant material is extracted using a solvent consisting of water and ethanol, the ethanol representing from 50% v / v to 99% v / v of the water / ethanol mixture. Preferably, the plant material is extracted using a mixture comprising 30% v / v of water and 70% v / v of ethanol. The extraction can be carried out hot by reflux or else by maceration at room temperature.
    Advantageously, ultrasound is used during extraction in order to improve the mass yield of said extraction.
    The extraction process advantageously comprises a filtration step aimed at separating the liquid phase from the spent plant material.
    The extraction cycle and then the filtration cycle can be reproduced several times in order to exhaust the plant material of the substances having an affinity for the extraction solvent. The extraction process can also include at least one bleaching and / or purification step. , for example in the form of treatment of the extract with a solution of at least one polar solvent in the presence of particles of activated carbon. In particular, the chlorophyll extracted by the solvent is eliminated.
    The extraction process can also be supplemented by a step of partial or total removal of the extraction solvents.
    The extract can advantageously be concentrated by eliminating part of the solvent or of the mixture of extraction solvent.
    It is thus possible to obtain an aqueous concentrate devoid of a significant amount of organic solvents or alternatively, by eliminating all the extraction solvent, to obtain a dry residue.
    Alternatively, the product of the extraction step can be freeze-dried or atomized to take the form of a powder.
    According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the aqueous extract of pink flowers according to the invention is obtained according to a process making it possible to increase the extraction yield and to enrich the extract with water-soluble products usually contained in the plant juices, in particular sugars, mineral salts, proteins, beneficial for micro-nutrition of the skin.
    Thus according to a particular and preferred embodiment of the invention, the aqueous extract of rose is obtained by a process of cryo-grinding and cold extraction of the flowers of roses, allowing preservation of the heat-sensitive molecules.
    Such a process is in particular described in application EP0425391 incorporated by reference.
    This process notably includes the following steps:
    - first crushing of rose flowers at a temperature between -10 ° C and -40 ° C, ίο
    - second grinding of the rose fractions obtained in the previous step, at a temperature between -40 ° C and -100 ° C, in the presence of liquid nitrogen
    - sieving of the fractions obtained in the previous step, using a sieve with a particle size ranging from 2mm to 100pm and preferably less than 500pm, in particular ranging from 100μ to about 500μ,
    - pressing of the fractions recovered in the previous step, and brought to a temperature of 0 ° C ± 5 ° C, then subjected to the following cycle of operations: freezing at a temperature between -10 ° C and -40 ° C, suspending these frozen fractions in an amount of water approximately equal to the amount of liquid obtained during the previous step, pressing the fractions suspended in water and brought to a temperature of 0 ° C ± 5 ° C ,
    - filtration of the quantities of liquids obtained and recovery of the filtrates
    - concentration of filtrates by removing cold water
    - advantageously freezing the concentrated solutions obtained in the previous step.
    According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the aqueous extract of rose according to the invention, otherwise called 'Cryo-extract' in the illustrative examples below, comprises from 0.5% to 10% by weight of dry matter (active material) of extract rose, and 90 to 99.5% by weight of a mixture of water and glycerol 50/50. Preferably, the ‘Cryo-extract’ comprises 0.5 to 1.5% by weight of dry matter (active material), and 98.5 to 99.5% by weight of a mixture of water and glycerol 50/50.
    The INCI name for this aqueous rose extract is Water, Glycerin, Rose Extract.
    It can also be found under the name Rosa Hybrid Flower Extract, Water, Glycerin.
    According to a particular and preferred embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the aqueous extract of rose comprises an extract of rose flowers in a polar solvent, in particular in a weight ratio of 0, 5: 99.5 to 10: 90 (plant extract: polar solvent) and is present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1% to 10%, in particular from 0.5% to 5%, and according to a particular mode from 1% to 4% by weight of raw material relative to the total weight of said composition.
    The aqueous extract of rose according to the invention, in particular obtained according to the cryogenic process described above, advantageously comprises polar micronutrients, such as vitamins (vitamin B3, vitamin B5), trace elements (zinc, copper, iron, manganese ), sugars (sucrose, glucose, fructose), an amino acid (aspartic acid) and polyphenols of the flavonoid type (such as kampferol and quercetin derivatives).
    Oily extract of rose (otherwise called ‘Satin Oïl · in the illustrative examples)
    We will talk about oily extract or apolar extract or lipophilic extract of rose in the description.
    The oily extract of rose according to the invention is inspired by the theory of the polar paradox of the antioxidants of PORTER and FRANKEL or physicochemical behavior of the antioxidants in continuous oil system and in dispersed system allowing hydrophilic compounds (antioxidants or phenols for example) to become miscible in oily compounds comprising for example phospholipids (molecules with polar functions) under physicochemical actions produced by ultrasound and microwaves.
    More simply, it is a question of using an oil or a fatty substance, and in particular a vegetable oil, as biologically active agro-solvent, to selectively extract molecules from a plant, in particular a rose, with an efficient technology based on physical principles, to obtain a concentrated oily complex, a stable vector ready to formulate.
    By "oily rose extract" according to the invention, it is understood in particular that the apolar (lipophilic) compounds of the rose flowers have dissolved and / or have been extracted in an oil.
    The oily extract of rose according to the invention can be obtained according to the conventional methods known to those skilled in the art, such as for example methods of maceration in an oil-type solvent, such as for example described in WO2008 / 132127 or FR2693906, possibly under microwave radiation as described in FR2694300 to reduce the extraction time.
    According to a particular and preferred embodiment of the invention, the oily extract of rose is obtained by a dynamic extraction method (otherwise called “dynamic enfleurage”) which is made by energetic activation of the plant and of the vector oil for have an active mass transfer, with a pumping effect from the most concentrated medium to the least concentrated. The process combines short-term multi-stages (cryo-grinding, ultrasound, microwaves, filtration) (each stage <15 min) and inerting in nitrogen and protected from light during the transformation limit the phenomena of oxidation.
    This makes it possible to open the plant cells, to disorganize the medium to make extractable molecules usually insoluble in oils, they become miscible with the oily support according to a dynamic rearrangement.
    The inventors have in fact observed that the content of total phenols is advantageously higher with the extraction method known as “dynamic enfleurage” compared to an extraction method by “conventional enfleurage” (conventional maceration), ie 25 to 40 times greater. This method makes it possible to entrain the phenols contained in the rose compared to a traditional method of enfleurage and also with a polar solvent such as water.
    Such a method is described in particular in application WO2010 / 112760 incorporated by reference. In particular, the method comprises:
    - at least one step a) of mixing and impregnating the solid raw material with a natural fatty substance at a temperature above the melting point of the oil and in an atmosphere devoid of or essentially devoid of oxygen,
    at least one step b) of heating the mixture at high temperature for a very short time and in an atmosphere devoid of or essentially devoid of oxygen, using microwaves,
    - At least one step c) of micro-dispersion of the material to be extracted and possibly rupture of the cells of the raw material in the natural fatty substance at a temperature above the melting point of the fatty substance and in an atmosphere devoid of or essentially devoid of oxygen , using ultrasound,
    - step c) can be carried out before, during or after step b).
    The raw material is preferably ground beforehand at low temperature, between -20 ° C and -80 ° C (cryo-grinding).
    Advantageously, during step c) or just before, an oxygen scavenging or reducing compound is added, a compound making it possible to regenerate, in reduced form, the oil tocopherols as well as the phenolic compounds extracted in the oil by the process or a chelator of pro-oxidant metals, these compounds helping to improve the oxidative stability of the final product.
    As fatty substances or vegetable oils which can be used as extraction vector for the oily extract according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of the following vegetable oils and fatty substances:
    - vegetable oils such as: deodorized oleic sunflower oil, virgin sweet almond oil, virgin oil of Muscat rose, avocado oil, safflower oil, camelina oil, jojoba oil, borage oil, grape seed oil, olive oil 'argan, black seed oil, pumpkin seed oil, or peria oil, and mixtures thereof,
    - butters such as: Murumuru butter, Mango butter, Shea butter, and their mixtures,
    - vegetable waxes such as: Carnauba wax, beeswax, candellila wax, jojoba wax, and mixtures thereof,
    - and their mixtures.
    We preferentially use organic Sunflower oleic deodorized oil whose color is orange yellow.
    According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the weight ratio between the raw material (rose flowers) and the oil in the starting mixture used in step a) is between 1: 0.5 and 1: 10, preferably between 1: 1 and 1: 5 expressed by mass: mass of oil or mass: volume of oil.
    According to a preferred embodiment, the oily extract of rose according to the invention is obtained according to the following process: the fresh frozen flowers are cryo-crushed and mixed with deodorized oleic sunflower oil BIO, in particular in a dry plant / oil ranging from 1: 10 to 1: 5, then different successive extraction steps are carried out by extraction using microwaves then by ultrasound. A filtration stage by centrifugation makes it possible to obtain a precious oil therefore the stability has been preserved because each stage has been carried out meticulously under nitrogen blanketing. We obtain the oily rose concentrate or oily rose extract which is a “dynamic” enfleurage of the Rose Jardin de Granville®.
    This raw material can be used in this way or combine with other materials and make new oily complexes.
    According to a preferred embodiment, the oily rose extract according to the invention comprises 98.5% -99.5% deodorized organic oleic sunflower oil and 0.5-1.5% by weight of rose extract ( dry matter or active ingredient from rose extract).
    The INCI name for this oily rose extract is Rose extract and Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil.
    One can also find the name INCI Rosa Hybrid Flower Extract, Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil.
    According to a particular and preferred embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the oily extract of rose comprises an extract of rose flowers in a vegetable oil, preferably a sunflower oil, in particular in a weight ratio of 1: 99 to 10: 90 (plant extract: oil) and is present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1% to 10%, in particular from 0.5% to 5%, and according to a method particular from 1% to 2% by weight of raw material relative to the total weight of said composition. Analysis of the composition of this extract shows that it is rich in non-polar micronutrients and in particular:
    - fatty acids (major compounds)
    C16: 0 (palmitic acid)
    C18: 0 (stearic acid)
    C18: 1 (oleic acid- omega 9)
    C18: 2 (linoleic acid- omega 6)
    C20: 0 (arachidic acid)
    C20: 1 (eicosenoic acid - omega 9)
    C22: 0 (behenic acid) of the fat-soluble vitamins (a-tocopherol) of the sterols β-sitosterol and stigmasterol, and
    - apolar phenols.
    According to a particular and preferred embodiment of the invention, at least:
    - an aqueous extract of rose flowers from the Evanrat or Rose Jardin variety
    Granville® obtained according to the cryoextraction process described in the application
    EP0425391; in particular an extract comprising 0.5% of dry matter in 99.5% of a mixture of water / glycerol (called “Cryo-extract” in the illustrative examples) and
    - an oily extract of rose flowers of the Evanrat or Rose Jardin de Granville® variety obtained according to the dynamic enfleurage process as described in the application described in application WO2010 / 112760; in particular an extract comprising from 0.5% to 1.5% of dry matter in 98.5-99.5% of organic deodorized oleic sunflower oil (named "Satin oil" in the following illustrative examples).
    The content of aqueous extract of rose in the final cosmetic composition will generally range from 0.1% to 10%, in particular from 0.5% to 5%, and according to a particular mode from 1% to 4% by weight of raw material sus -described relative to the total weight of said composition. For a raw material comprising 0.5% by weight of dry extract of rose, this is equivalent to 0.0005% to 0.05% by weight, in particular from 0.0025% to 0.025%, and according to a particular mode from 0.005% to 0.02% by weight of dry matter (active) relative to the total weight of the composition.
    The content of oily rose extract in the final cosmetic composition will generally range from 0.1% to 10%, in particular from 0.5% to 5%, and according to a particular mode from 1% to 2% by weight of raw material sus -described relative to the total weight of said composition. The oily extract representing 100% of dry extract, for a raw material containing 1% of rose extract, this represents an equivalent of 0.001% to 0.01% by weight of active material originating from the rose extract, in particular from 0.005 to 0.05% by weight and in a particular mode from 0.01 to 0.02% by weight of active material originating from the rose extract.
    Advantageously, the weight ratio between the aqueous extract and the oily extract of rose flowers in the final cosmetic composition will range from 5: 1 to 1: 1, preferably 3: 1 as active material.
    galenic
    The cosmetic composition of the invention can be in any dosage form suitable for topical application to the skin, for example an oily serum, an oil-in-water emulsion, a water-in-oil emulsion, a multiple emulsion, or an aqueous gel.
    Advantageously, a cosmetic composition will be used comprising at least one aqueous phase and at least one fatty or oily phase in which each rose extract according to the invention, depending on its polarity, can be optimally dispersed and thus fully express its effects. when applying the composition to the skin.
    Thus, according to a particular and preferred embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic composition of the invention comprises at least one aqueous phase comprising said aqueous extract of rose and at least one fatty or oily phase comprising said oily extract of rose.
    The preferred embodiments according to the invention are the methods of obtaining a dispersion of a fatty phase containing the oily extract of rose in an aqueous phase containing the aqueous extract of rose. According to a particular mode, it will be an oil-in-water emulsion the size of the drops or balls of oils may vary from a few nanometers to a few millimeters depending on the desired effect.
    Those skilled in the art will be able to choose the suitable embodiment, with particular reference to the following publication for the definition and size of the different types of emulsion: Emulsion Formation, Stability, and Rheology, Prof. Dr. Tharwat F. Tadros, Published Online: 29 JAN 2013, DOI: 10.1002 / 9783527647941 .ch 1, http://onlinelibrarv.wilev.com/doi/10.1002/9783527647941 .ch1 / summarv.
    Those skilled in the art will be able to choose the method of measuring the size of the particles and its distribution as a function of the expected size range, either by dynamic or static light scattering for the drops ranging from 5 nm to 100 μm, with particular reference to to the following publication: "Light Scattering by Small Particles" by HC van de Hulst, May 24, 1982, either by image analysis for drops or spheroids greater than 100pm.
    According to a particular mode, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is in the form of a dispersion of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase, in particular chosen from the group consisting of emulsions, macro-emulsions, nano-emulsions , microemulsions, pickering emulsions, solid dispersions of fatty substances, or dispersions of drops of oils stabilized by a polymeric membrane.
    Examples of embodiments are described below, without this being limiting (the parenthesis indicates the average diameter of the drops of oils in the aqueous phase).
    According to a first embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the invention may have the form of an oil-in-water emulsion or macro-emulsion (0.1 pm-100 pm).
    According to a second embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the invention may have the form of an oil-in-water nano emulsion (20 nm-100 nm).
    According to a third embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the invention may have the form of a micro emulsion or micellar emulsion (5-50 nm).
    These three systems are generally kinetically or thermodynamically stabilized with surfactants preferably of high HLB (> 8 at 25 ° C) or associative polymers such as associative polyurethane (Adekanol GT700).
    According to a fourth embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the invention may have the form of a pickering emulsion stabilized by particles of silica or clay such as kaolinite or montmorillonite.
    According to a fifth embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the invention may have the form of a solid dispersion of fatty substances, of spherical shape or spheroids (50 μm to 10 mm), as notably described in patent application FR2649608. According to this embodiment, the fatty phase is heated until complete melting and mixed in an aqueous phase brought to the same temperature then cooled rapidly with stirring.
    According to a sixth particular and preferred embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic composition of the invention has the form of a dispersion of drops of a first oily phase in a second aqueous phase, the drops or 'beads' being stabilized by a surface polymer membrane (interfacial coacervation between cationic and anionic polymers) (500 μm to 5 mm), as described in patent application FR2972371, incorporated by reference.
    Each drop comprises a core formed by an oily phase and a shell formed by a layer of coacervate interposed between the oily phase and the aqueous phase, said layer being created by interaction between a first lipophilic precursor polymer contained in the oily phase and a second hydrophilic precursor polymer contained in the aqueous phase at the interface of the two phases.
    According to a particular embodiment, the oily phase comprising the oily extract of rose also comprises a lipophilic polymer capable of being ionized in contact with an aqueous phase, for example a polymer containing a silicone and containing a functional group capable of being ionized, the lipophilic polymer advantageously being a derivative of dimethicone, such as amodimethicone and its derivatives.
    According to another particular mode, the lipophilic polymer is provided by another oily phase, called the reaction phase, than the oily phase containing the oily extract of rose.
    And the aqueous phase comprises a hydrophilic acrylic polymer such as a co-polymer of acrylic acid or maleic acid and at least one other monomer, such as acrylamide, alkyl acrylates, acrylates Cs-Cs alkyl, C10-C30 alkyl acrylates, C12-C22 alkyl methacrylates, methoxypolyethylene glycol methacrylates, hydroxyester acrylates.
    According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the step of stiffening the drops is based on the formation of a coacervate at the interface between the polyacrylic acid contained in the aqueous phase and an amino-silicone (Amodimethicone) provided by the oily phase, after formation of the drops. The meeting of these two polymers causes the coacervation and the stiffening of the membrane around the drops.
    This formulation is advantageous in that the oily extract of rose is micro-encapsulated in drops of oil protected by an ultra fine membrane, stabilized without surfactant. Upon application, the membrane bursts and disappears. There then remains no interface between water and oil which becomes immediately available on the skin without hindrance. The alternation of the two phases creates a very specific sensory transformation with a unique touch and allows the rose extracts, protected in their respective phases, to be directly bio-assimilated by the skin.
    Thus, according to a particular and preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the invention is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, a silicone-in-water emulsion, a multiple emulsion, or preferably still of a dispersion of drops (or “beads”) of oils stabilized by a polymeric membrane in suspension in an aqueous phase, preferably gelled.
    The aqueous phase generally represents from 1 to 99% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.
    The composition is preferably intended to be applied to the face and is for example in the form of a care cream, a fluid for the face, a care gel for the face.
    Aqueous phase
    The aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention comprises water and optionally a water-soluble solvent.
    The term "water-soluble solvent" according to the invention means a compound that is liquid at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25 ° C and atmospheric pressure). We can cite in particular:
    - lower C1-C5 mono-alcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol and their mixtures;
    - C2-C8 glycols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and mixtures thereof;
    - C2-C32 polyols such as polyglycerols, polyethylene glycols, and their mixtures, and their mixtures.
    It can also include hydrophilic gelling agents, antioxidants, preservatives and mixtures thereof.
    As hydrophilic gelling agents, mention may in particular be made of polyacrylic acids such as those of INCI Carbomer name or of Carbopol® commercial reference, carboxyvinyl polymers, associative thickeners of acrylic or polyurethane type, polysaccharide gelling agents such as alginates, gums xanthan, carrageenan gums, agar gums, cellulose derivatives, gelatin, mineral gelling agents such as bentones or modified silicas, and mixtures thereof.
    According to a particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the invention comprises a gelled aqueous phase, in particular by the presence of at least one polymer of polyacrylic acid.
    Oily or oily phase
    The cosmetic composition of the invention comprises an oily phase (solid fatty substances) or an oily phase.
    The term “oily phase” is understood to mean an oil or a mixture of oils which are miscible with one another. By “oil” is meant, within the meaning of the invention, a fatty substance, not soluble in water, liquid at 25 ° C. and 0.1 MPa, and preferably non-volatile having a vapor pressure, at 25 ° C and 0.1 MPa, non-zero less than 2.6 Pa, preferably less than 0.13 Pa.
    An oily phase according to the invention can comprise hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, fluorinated or not, and mixtures thereof.
    These oils can be volatile or non-volatile, vegetable, mineral or synthetic.
    By "hydrocarbon oil" is meant according to the invention an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms.
    By "silicone oil" is meant according to the invention an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.
    By "fluorinated oil" is meant according to the invention an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.
    As non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, mention may in particular be made of hydrocarbon oils, hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, synthetic ethers of C10C40, synthetic esters of C10-C40, fatty alcohols of C12-C26, higher fatty acids in C12-C22, and mixtures thereof.
    As non-volatile silicone oils, mention may in particular be made of phenylated silicone oils, non-phenylated silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.
    The oils may be present in the composition of the invention in a content ranging from 1 to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
    The fatty or oily phase can also include lipophilic gelling agents, film-forming polymers, surfactants, antioxidants and mixtures thereof.
    According to a particular embodiment, the aqueous phase comprises at least one polyacrylic acid and the oily phase comprises at least one amino-silicone (amodimethicone). The meeting of these two polymers causes the coacervation and the stiffening of the membrane around the drops, allowing their suspension in the aqueous phase, which can itself be advantageously transparent and gelled.
    According to a particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the invention comprises less than 5% by weight of surfactant, in particular less than 2% by weight of surfactant, preferably less than 1% by weight of surfactants and more preferably is devoid of surfactant .
    The composition of the invention can also comprise any additive usually used in cosmetics such as UV filters, antioxidants, perfumes, cosmetic active agents, such as, for example, emollients, moisturizers, vitamins, anti-aging agents, lightening agents, and mixtures thereof.
    According to a particular and preferred embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is in the form of a dispersion of oil drops comprising the oily extract of rose of the variety Evanrat or rose Garden of Granville® in a aqueous gelled phase comprising the aqueous extract of rose of the Evanrat variety or rose Jardin de Granville®.
    The oily phase of such a composition comprises at least one amino-silicone (amodimethicone) and the aqueous phase at least one polyacrylic acid.
    And preferably said cosmetic composition comprises at least:
    an aqueous extract of rose flowers of the Evanrat or Rose Jardin de Granville® variety obtained according to the cryoextraction process described in application EP0425391; in particular an extract comprising 0.5% of dry matter in 99.5% of a mixture of water / glycerol (called “Cryo-extract” in the illustrative examples) and
    - an oily extract of rose flowers of the Evanrat or Rose Jardin de Granville® variety obtained according to the dynamic enfleurage process as described in the application described in application WO2010 / 112760; in particular an extract comprising from 0.5% to 1.5% of dry matter in 98.5-99.5% of organic deodorized oleic sunflower oil (named "Satin oil" in the following illustrative examples).
    According to a particular mode, the cosmetic composition of the invention does not comprise any other rose extract than the rose extracts described according to the invention.
    Cosmetic process
    The invention also relates to a cosmetic method intended to promote the natural rhythmic process of the skin cells and / or the micro-nutritional balance of the skin, comprising the application to the skin, in particular of the face and / or the neck, 'a cosmetic composition as defined above according to the invention.
    The composition can be applied to the body, the face and / or the neck. According to a particular mode, the composition is applied to the face and / or the neck.
    Advantageously, and thanks to the knowledge acquired by the Applicant on the role of clock genes and their circadian oscillations at the level of skin cells, the cosmetic composition of the invention can be applied to the skin of the face and / or neck in the morning, to optimize skin care and obtain an improved benefit on the skin barrier and skin resistance.
    Cosmetic uses
    The invention also relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of at least one effective amount of at least one aqueous extract of rose and at least one oily extract of rose in a cosmetic composition, as an agent intended to promote and / or improve the natural rhythmic process of skin cells, the micro-nutritional balance of the skin, the lipid metabolism of the skin and / or the skin barrier function.
    According to a particular mode, the effective amount of at least one aqueous extract of rose and at least one oily extract of rose stimulates the expression of genes of the epidermal clock, and the expression of target genes of the clock epidermal, involved in particular in lipid metabolism, skin barrier, cell differentiation, cell communication and / or cell cohesion.
    In particular, the aqueous extract of rose according to the invention stimulates the expression of the clock genes Cryptochrome Circadian Clock 2 CRY2, Period 1 PERI and Period 3 PER3 and the oily extract of rose according to the invention stimulates the expression of the gene Period 2 clock PER2.
    The aqueous extract of rose according to the invention stimulates the expression of the Kératin 10 KRT10 and Desmoglein 1 DSG1 genes and the oily extract of rose according to the invention stimulates the expression of the Ceramide synthase 3 CERS3, Calmoduline 3 CALM3 genes, Keratin 1 KRT1, Gap-junction alpha-1 protein GJA1 / Connexin 43 Cx43 and Desmocollin 3 DSC3.
    The aqueous and oily extracts of rose used according to the invention are as described above.
    Preferably, we will use
    - an aqueous extract of rose flowers of the Evanrat or Rose Jardin de Granville® variety obtained according to the cryo-extraction process described in the application
    EP0425391; in particular an extract comprising 0.5% of dry matter in 99.5% of a mixture of water / glycerol (called “Cryo-extract” in the illustrative examples) and
    - an oily extract of rose flowers of the Evanrat or Rose Jardin de Granville® variety obtained according to the dynamic enfleurage process as described in the application described in application WO2010 / 112760; in particular an extract comprising from 0.5% to 1.5% of dry matter in 98.5-99.5% of organic deodorized oleic sunflower oil (named "Satin oil" in the following illustrative examples).
    The invention will now be illustrated in the following non-limiting figures and examples.
    FIGURES
    Figure 1: Activation of the transcription of the CRY2 gene in KHN treated with extracts of rose.
    Figure 2: Activation of the transcription of the PER 1 gene in KHN treated with extracts of rose.
    Figure 3: Activation of the transcription of the PER 3 gene in KHN treated with extracts of rose.
    EXAMPLES
    Material and methods
    Plant material is used to obtain the aqueous and oily extracts of rose illustrated in these examples, rose flowers (petals) of the Evanrat variety, in particular rose flowers from Jardin de Granville®, available from nurserymen.
    Aqueous extract of rose (‘Cryo extract’)
    Rose flowers (petals) of the Evanrat variety are used as plant material, in particular Jardin de Granville® rose flowers available from nurserymen.
    The aqueous extract of rose flower is obtained according to the cryo-extraction process described above, in particular according to the process described in patent application EP0425391. We obtain a Cryoextract comprising 0.5% by weight of dry matter (active ingredient), 49-50% by weight of water, 49% by weight of glycerol and qsp100% preservatives. The INCI name for this aqueous rose extract is Water, Glycerin, Rose Extract or Rosa Hybrid Flower Extract, Water, Glycerin.
    Oily Rose Extract (‘Satin Oil’)
    Rose flowers (petals) of the Evanrat variety are used as plant material, in particular Jardin de Granville® rose flowers available from nurserymen.
    The oily extract of rose flower is obtained according to the dynamic swelling process described above, in particular according to the process described in patent application WO2010 / 112760. An oily Satin Oil extract is obtained comprising 0.5-1.5% by weight of dry rose matter (active material), and 98.5-99.5% by weight of deodorized organic oleic sunflower oil.
    The INCI name for this oily rose extract is Rose extract and Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil or Rosa Hybrid Flower Extract, Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil.
    Example 1 Effect of the aqueous extract of rose flower on the expression of the genes of the epidermal clock (PERI, PER 3, CRY2)
    We studied the impact of the aqueous extract of rose on the expression of genes involved in the molecular clock in normal human keratinocytes, in particular the genes Period 1 (PERI), Period 3 (PER3), Cryptochrome Circadian Clock 2 (CRY2), involved in metabolic pathways for skin resistance, skin nutrition such as lipid metabolism, glucose metabolism, calcium homeostasis (involved in epidermal differentiation).
    Normal human keratinocytes (KHN) are cultured and then treated with the 2 extracts of Rose.
    After treatment of the KHNs, a study by Taqman Low Density Array (TLDA) on the genes studied is carried out from the cDNAs obtained after reverse transcription of the total RNAs extracted.
    The oily extract of rose is tested at 25 and 10pg / ml (DMSO excipient for compatibility of the oily extract with the cell culture medium).
    The aqueous extract of rose is tested at 1 and 3% (excipient water).
    Culture of KHN
    Normal human keratinocytes come from a skin sample from plastic surgery. The cells are cultured the complete Epilife medium at P5 with a seeding density of 50,000 cells per well, in 12-well plates. At sub-confluence, the cells are treated for 24 hours with the doses of rose extracts described above.
    Quantitative RT-PCR in real time • Obtaining total RNA
    The cell culture medium is eliminated, and 250 μL of RLT lysis buffer (supplied in the Nucleospin RNA trace kit, Macherey-Nagel) are added. The cells are scraped using a Cell Scraper, then the cell lysate is recovered in a 1.2 mL deepwell (supplied_in the Nucleospin RNA kit). Total RNAs are extracted according to defined protocols.
    The total RNA solutions obtained are assayed, and their quality verified, using a microplate reader, spectrostarNANO (BMG Labtech) coupled to MicrolabSTAR. This device is connected to the computer controlling the Robotics platform and has specific software for analyzing the results (MARS software). The technique requires a 384-well micro-plate (LoBase), a positive control (RNA 250, AM7155, Thermofisher) to validate the pipetting performed by the robot as well as the values generated by the spectrostarNANO reader.
    • Synthesis of complementary DNAs
    The reverse transcription kit (RT) used is the High Capacity Reverse Transcription Kit (Thermo Fisher). It was used according to the protocol provided. 500 ng of total RNA are diluted in water for a final volume of 25 pL. They are then incubated for 10 minutes at 25 ° C and then 2 hours at 37 ° C in the presence of 25 μL of reaction mixture of High Capacity Reverse Transcription Kit 2X previously prepared as indicated below. The different incubations are carried out within TRobot (Biométra).
    Reagents RT buffer dNTP Primer RNase OUT RT H2O Volume p pL 2 pL 5 pL 0.5 pL 2.5 pL 10 pL
    Table 1: High Capacity Reverse Transcription Kit 2X reaction mixture for 1 reaction
    PCR-TaqMan Low Density Array pL of each RT is mixed with 60 μl of water and then 75 μΙ_ of TaqMan Gene Expression master mix (ThermoFisher reference 4369510), containing the DNA polymerase, are added. After homogenization, 100 μΙ_ are deposited on the microfluidic cards containing the probes corresponding to the clock genes tested (table 2 below), the latter are centrifuged and then sealed. The CD Rom corresponding to the profile of the genes deposited on the plates is loaded into the SDS 2.3 software, specifying the location of each gene on the map. The control gene (or “endogeneous” gene) to be used for the normalization of the results is to be indicated before the launch of the PCR. The latter is carried out according to the protocol provided by Applied Biosystems in the ABI Prism 7900HT Sequence detection System device. The qPCR steps are 2 min at 50 ° C, 10 min at 94.5 ° C then 30 s at 97 ° C and 1 min at 59.7 ° C for 40 cycles.
    Uncomfortable TaqMan Reference RefSeq Accession numberGenBank Perl Hs01092603_m1 NM 002616.2 per3 Hs00997925_m1 NM_016831.2 Cry2 Hs00323654_m1 NM_021117.3 Beta-2-M (control gene) Hs00187842_m1 NM 004048.2
    Table 2: list of genes on the microfluidic map.
    Statistical analyzes
    Quantitative real-time PCR can be used if its efficiency is between 90% and 110%. For each sample, the number of cycles at which the signal appears is determined by the SDS 2.3 software. For the same test, the expression levels of the transcripts of interest obtained are normalized with respect to the value obtained for the household gene Beta-2-microglobulin. This gene, the expression of which is constitutive and invariant, makes it possible to overcome any variations induced during the experiment (assay of total RNAs, pipetting, reverse transcription step, PCR in the apparatus).
    In the RT-PCR TLDA method, quantification is performed using the AACt comparative method. The relative quantization values (RQ) obtained correspond to the level of amplitude (x times more or less than the control) of the expression compared to our control here the non-irradiated. The RQ is obtained by the following calculation where the control is equal to 1:
    PQ _ 2 _ûûct = 2 ACt treated - ACt not treated)
    ACt treated = Ct target gene treated - Ct household gene treated
    Untreated ACt untreated target gene Ct - untreated household gene Ct
    In order to assess variations in statistically significant transcriptional activity, we will use Student's t-test. Each condition is performed in triplicate (3 untreated and 3 treated under the same conditions). Fischer's F-test is first applied by comparing the two data matrices. When the value is greater than a = 0.05 then the variance for Student's t-test is 2, when the Fischer's F-test is less than a = 0.05 then the variance will be equal to 3. Transcriptional variations retained will be those which have a Student's t test less than a = 0.05.
    The results are presented on average over n = 3. Student's t-test was used to compare the effect between treated and untreated cells.
    The results are considered significant for p <0.05 (*) or p <0.01 (**).
    Effect on CRY2
    Figure 1 shows an increase in significant transcriptional activity for the aqueous extract of rose flower at 3% which increases the expression of the CRY 2 gene by 28%, and the oily extract of rose flower at 25pg / ml which increases the expression of the CRY 2 gene by 12%.
    Effect on PER 1
    Figure 2 shows a significant increase in the expression of the PER 1 gene.
    Effect on PER 3
    Figure 3 shows a significant increase in transcriptional activity for the 3% aqueous rose flower extract which increases gene expression by 38%.
    The aqueous extract of rose flower therefore alone increases the effect of the CRY2, PERI, and PER3 genes.
    Example 2 Effect of the Oily Rose Flower Extract on the Expression of the Clock Gene PER 2
    An oily extract of rose flower at 1 pg / ml (excipient DMSO) was tested on KHNs according to a protocol similar to that described in Example 1.
    Uncomfortable TaqMan Reference RefSeq Accession numberGenBank Per2 Hs00256143_m1 NM 022817.2 Beta-2-M (control gene) Hs00187842_m1 NM 004048.2
    Table 3: list of genes on the microfluidic map.
    A 21% increase in the expression of the PER 2 gene is observed.
    The oily extract of rose flower therefore has a complementary effect of the aqueous extract of rose on the expression of clock genes.
    Example 3 Effect of the Oily Rose Flower Extract on the Expression of Genes in Normal Human Keratinocytes
    An oily extract of rose flower at 1 pg / ml (excipient DMSO) was tested on KHNs according to a protocol similar to that described in Example 1.
    Uncomfortable ReferenceTaqMan RefSeq Accession numberGenBank Differentiation / Barrierdermal / Fats CERS3 / LASS3 Hs00698859_m1 NM_178842.4 CALM3 Hs00270914_m1 NM 005184.2 KRT1 Hs00196158_m1 NM_006121.3 Membership / Cohesion /Communication GJA1 / Cx43 Hs00748445_s1 NM 000165.4 DSC3 Hs00170032_m1 NM_001941.4 Beta-2-M(control gene) Hs00187842_m1 NM 004048.2
    Table 4: list of genes present on the microfluidic map.
    The oily extract of rose flower at 1pg / ml, after 24 hours of treatment has shown significant stimulation on the expression of the following target genes:
    - Ceramide synthase (CERS3): + 33%
    Calmodulin 3 (CALM 3): + 28%
    - Keratin 1 (KRT1): + 14%
    - Gap junction alpha-1 protein or connexin 43 (GJA1 / CX43): + 23%
    Desmocollin 3 (DESC3): + 23%
    The oily extract of pink flower according to the invention therefore has an effect on target genes of the epidermal clock, involved in lipid metabolism, the skin barrier, cell differentiation, cell communication and / or cell cohesion.
    Example 4 Effect of the aqueous extract of rose flower on the expression of genes in normal human keratinocytes
    A 0.08% aqueous rose flower extract was tested on KHNs according to a protocol similar to that described in Example 1.
    A butylene glycol / water excipient is used as a control.
    Uncomfortable TaqMan Reference GeneBank Accession RefSeq N 0 Differentiationcellular Keratin 10 KRT10 Hs00166289_m1 NM 000421.3 Cohesionepidermal Desmoglein 1 DSG1 Hs00170047_m1 N M_001942.3 Beta-2-M (genecontrol) Hs00187842_m1 NM 004048.2
    Table 5: list of genes present on the microfluidic map.
    The 0.08% aqueous rose flower extract, after 24 hours of treatment, showed significant stimulation on the expression of the following target genes:
    Keratin 10 (KRT10): + 88%
    Desmoglein 1 (DSG1): + 29%
    The aqueous extract of rose flower according to the invention therefore has an effect on target genes of the epidermal clock, involved in cell differentiation, and / or epidermal cohesion.
    All of these biological results show that the aqueous extract of rose flower and the oily extract of rose flower according to the invention stimulate, in a complementary manner, clock genes and target genes involved in lipid metabolism, skin barrier, cell differentiation, cell communication and / or cell cohesion. Their combined use in a cosmetic composition is therefore advantageous in that it makes it possible to stimulate complementary clock genes and thus activate several metabolic pathways of interest.
    Examples of formulations are described below without this being limiting. The percentages are weight percentages expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
    Example 5: Composition in the form of an emulsion
    Aqueous phase :
    Demineralized water qs 100%
    Glycols 20%
    Preservatives 0.6%
    0.04% chelating
    Carbomer (Carbopol® 981) 0.3%
    Sodium polyacrylate (Covacryl® MV60) 0.2%
    Sodium Hydroxide 0.15%
    Cryoextract of rose * 3%
    Fat phase:
    Vegetable oil, esters, silicones 16%
    Satin Oil * 1%
    0.2% antioxidant
    0.4% perfume concentrate
    Steareth-2 0.8%
    Steareth-21 1.5% * as described in the Materials and methods paragraph above.
    The composition is prepared according to the following procedure:
    - the gelling agents are dispersed in the aqueous phase (excluding Cryoextract of rose and sodium hydroxide) which is brought to 70 ° C;
    - the fatty phase (excluding perfume concentrate, antioxidant and Satin OU) is heated to 70 ° C;
    - Satin OU is added extemporaneously just before the emulsion;
    - The emulsion is produced by introducing the fatty phase into the aqueous phase with vigorous stirring;
    - the gelling agents are neutralized by adding sodium hydroxide and the emulsion is cooled with moderate stirring with the introduction of the perfume concentrate, the antioxidant and the rose cryo-extract at low temperature.
    Application of this composition to the facial skin promotes the rhythmic process of the skin cells and thus improves lipid metabolism, the skin barrier, hydration and regeneration of the skin.
    Example 6 Composition in the form of a solid dispersion of fatty substances, of spherical or spheroid form
    Aqueous phase
    Demineralized water qs100%
    Cryo extract of rose * 3.00%
    Phenoxyethanol 0.42%
    Xanthan gum 0.36%
    Fat phase
    C10-18 triglycerides 38.84%
    Satin OR * 1%
    AntiOxydant 0.1% * as described in the Material and methods paragraph above.
    The composition is prepared according to the following procedure:
    - the wax is heated (C 10-18 triglycerides = Gatefossé lipocire) above its melting point (a few degrees) with the antioxidant and the oily extract of Rose Satin oil;
    - the molten fatty phase is poured with stirring into water previously heated to the same temperature as the fatty phase;
    .the whole is kept under agitation by a rotary system for a few minutes until the desired droplet size is obtained;
    - The dispersion obtained is rapidly cooled by adding pre-cooled glycol water (approximately -4 ° C) to solidify the lipid spheroids; agitation is stopped when the spheroids are solidified and are then recovered from the surface or filtered;
    - the aqueous phase is prepared by mixing the water, xanthan gum, the preservative and the cryo-rose extract;
    - the spheroids are recovered on the surface and incorporated into the xanthan gel containing the cryo rose extract.
    An application of this composition to the facial skin promotes the rhythmic process of the cutaneous ones and thus improves the lipid metabolism, the cutaneous barrier, the hydration and the regeneration of the skin.
    Example 7 Composition in the Form of Oily Drops Stabilized by a Polymeric Surface Membrane in a Gelled Aqueous Phase
    Aqueous phase :
    Demineralized water qs 100%
    Glycols 20%
    Preservatives 0.6%
    0.04% chelating
    Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl acrylate crosspolymer (Pemulen® TR2) 0.3%
    Sodium polyacrylate (Covacryl® MV60) 0.2%
    Sodium Hydroxide 0.15%
    Cryoextract of rose * 3%
    Fat phase:
    Vegetable oil, esters, silicones 16%
    Satin Oil * 1%
    0.2% antioxidant
    0.4% perfume concentrate
    Amodimethicone (Dow Corning 2-8566 aminofluid®) 0.07% * as described in the Materials and methods paragraph above.
    The composition is prepared according to the following procedure:
    - the gelling agents are dispersed in the aqueous phase excluding cryo-extract and sodium hydroxide,
    - the emulsion is produced at room temperature by introducing the fatty phase into the aqueous phase with vigorous stirring,
    - the gelling agents are neutralized by adding sodium hydroxide before the introduction of the cryo rose extract.
    Application of this composition to the facial skin promotes the rhythmic process of the skin cells and thus improves lipid metabolism, the skin barrier, hydration and regeneration of the skin.
    权利要求:
    Claims (10)
    [1" id="c-fr-0001]
    1. Cosmetic composition for topical application to the skin comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least an effective amount of at least one aqueous extract of rose and at least one oily extract of rose.
    [2" id="c-fr-0002]
    2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it comprises at least one aqueous phase comprising said aqueous extract of rose and at least one fatty or oily phase comprising said oily extract of rose.
    [3" id="c-fr-0003]
    3. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the aqueous extract of rose and the oily extract of rose are extracts of rose flower, preferably extracts of rose flower of the variety Evanrat or rose Jardin de Granville®.
    [4" id="c-fr-0004]
    4. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the cosmetic composition is in the form of a dispersion of an oily or oily phase in an aqueous phase, in particular chosen from the group consisting of emulsions, macro-emulsions, nano-emulsions, micro-emulsions, pickering emulsions, solid dispersions of fatty substances, or dispersions of drops of oils stabilized by a polymeric membrane.
    [5" id="c-fr-0005]
    5. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the oily extract of rose comprises an extract of rose flowers in a vegetable oil, preferably a sunflower oil, in particular in a weight ratio from 1: 99 to 10: 90 (plant extract: oil) and is present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1% to 10%, in particular from 0.5% to 5%, and according to a particular mode of 1 % to 2% by weight of raw material relative to the total weight of said composition.
    [6" id="c-fr-0006]
    6. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the aqueous extract of rose comprises an extract of rose flowers in a polar solvent, in particular in a weight ratio of 0.5: 99, 5 to 10: 90 (plant extract: polar solvent) and is present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1% to 10%, in particular from 0.5% to 5%, and according to a particular mode from 1% to 4% by weight of raw material relative to the total weight of said composition.
    [7" id="c-fr-0007]
    7. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it is in the form of a dispersion of oil drops comprising the oily extract of rose of the variety Evanrat or rose Garden of Granville ® in a gelled aqueous phase comprising the aqueous extract of rose of the Evanrat variety or rose Jardin de Granville®.
    [8" id="c-fr-0008]
    8. Cosmetic method intended to promote the natural rhythmic process of the skin cells and / or the micro-nutritional balance of the skin, comprising the application to the skin, in particular of the body, of the face and / or of the neck and in particular of the face and / or neck, of a cosmetic composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 7.
    [9" id="c-fr-0009]
    9. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use of at least an effective amount of at least one aqueous extract of rose and at least one oily extract of rose in a cosmetic composition, as an agent intended to promote and / or improve the natural rhythmic process skin cells, micro-nutritional balance of the skin, lipid metabolism of the skin, skin barrier function, hydration and / or regeneration of the skin.
    [10" id="c-fr-0010]
    10. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use according to claim 9, in which the effective amount of at least one aqueous extract of rose and at least one oily extract of rose stimulates the expression of epidermal clock genes and of genes involved in lipid metabolism, skin barrier, cell differentiation, cell communication and / or cell cohesion.
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    同族专利:
    公开号 | 公开日
    JP2020520371A|2020-07-09|
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    CN110891548A|2020-03-17|
    US20210212923A1|2021-07-15|
    EP3634585A1|2020-04-15|
    FR3066388B1|2020-05-15|
    KR20200038202A|2020-04-10|
    引用文献:
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    FR2948023A1|2009-07-16|2011-01-21|Rocher Yves Biolog Vegetale|Cosmetic composition, useful for preventing skin aging in cells of the dermis, facial and/or body care and to protect and stimulate cellular metabolism towards the photo-radiation in fibroblasts of the dermis, comprises rose essential oil|
    EP2641584A1|2012-03-19|2013-09-25|Coty Germany GmbH|Cosmetic skin composition with soothing effect and its use|
    FR3019741A1|2014-04-14|2015-10-16|Guangzhou Barburly Cosmetic Co Ltd|COSMETIC COMPOSITION BASED ON ROSE PETALS|WO2020126653A1|2018-12-20|2020-06-25|L V M H Recherche|Rosewood extract|
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    WO2020157428A1|2019-01-30|2020-08-06|Lucas Meyer Cosmetics|Novel cosmetic uses of a rose extract|
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    FR2653664B1|1989-10-27|1992-02-07|Jean Daniel|COMPOSITIONS BASED ON SUC AND PLANT PROTOPLASTS, PROCESS FOR OBTAINING SAME AND USES THEREOF, PARTICULARLY IN THE FIELD OF PHYTOTHERAPY.|
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    FR2943684B1|2009-03-30|2011-04-22|Castera Anne Rossignol|PROCESS FOR EXTRACTING NON-VOLATILE COMPOUNDS|
    FR2972371B1|2011-03-08|2013-03-15|Capsum|METHOD OF FORMING DROPS FROM A FIRST PHASE DISPERSED IN A SECOND PHASE SUBSTANTIALLY IMMISCIBLE WITH THE FIRST PHASE|
    EP2800552B1|2012-01-05|2019-04-17|L'Oréal|Cosmetic use of dedifferentiated plant cells|
    EP2641585A1|2012-03-19|2013-09-25|Coty Germany GmbH|Cosmetic skin composition with soothing effect and its use|
    CN106389194B|2016-09-05|2019-03-22|上海萧雅生物科技股份有限公司|Bilayer with the light line effect of moisturizing skin lightening is sprayed essence and preparation method thereof|FR3097765B1|2019-06-28|2021-07-23|Oreal|Rose extract|
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    法律状态:
    2018-04-23| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 2 |
    2018-11-23| PLSC| Search report ready|Effective date: 20181123 |
    2019-04-19| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 3 |
    2020-04-22| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 4 |
    2021-04-21| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 5 |
    优先权:
    申请号 | 申请日 | 专利标题
    FR1754304|2017-05-16|
    FR1754304A|FR3066388B1|2017-05-16|2017-05-16|COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING ROSE EXTRACTS|FR1754304A| FR3066388B1|2017-05-16|2017-05-16|COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING ROSE EXTRACTS|
    CN201880046941.5A| CN110891548A|2017-05-16|2018-05-16|Cosmetic composition comprising rose extract|
    JP2019563594A| JP2020520371A|2017-05-16|2018-05-16|Cosmetic composition containing rose extract|
    KR1020197037035A| KR20200038202A|2017-05-16|2018-05-16|Cosmetic composition comprising rose extract|
    US16/613,953| US20210212923A1|2017-05-16|2018-05-16|Cosmetic composition comprising rose extracts|
    PCT/EP2018/062775| WO2018210947A1|2017-05-16|2018-05-16|Cosmetic composition comprising rose extracts|
    EP18724246.6A| EP3634585A1|2017-05-16|2018-05-16|Cosmetic composition comprising rose extracts|
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