专利摘要:
The present invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, comprising a fatty phase and an aqueous phase, said aqueous phase being substantially immiscible with the fatty phase, at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure, in which: the aqueous phase is in the form of spheres (S1) solid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, comprising at least one hydrophilic gelling agent, preferably heat-sensitive, and - the fatty phase comprises at least one lipophilic agent having a suspending, preferably thixotropic, preferably a hydrophobic silica.
公开号:FR3063899A1
申请号:FR1752208
申请日:2017-03-17
公开日:2018-09-21
发明作者:Laurence Rehault;Mathieu Goutayer
申请人:Capsum SAS;
IPC主号:
专利说明:

063 899
52208 ® FRENCH REPUBLIC
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF INDUSTRIAL PROPERTY © Publication number:
(to be used only for reproduction orders)
©) National registration number
COURBEVOIE © Int Cl 8 : A 61 K8 / 73 (2017.01), A 61 K8 / 25, 8/72, 8/92, A 61 Q 1/06, 1/10
A1 PATENT APPLICATION
©) Date of filing: 17.03.17. (© Applicant (s): CAPSUM Société par actions simpli- (© Priority: trusted - FR. @ Inventor (s): REHAULT LAURENCE and GOUTAYER MATHIEU. (43) Date of public availability of the request: 21.09.18 Bulletin 18/38. ©) List of documents cited in the report preliminary research: Refer to end of present booklet (© References to other national documents ©) Holder (s): CAPSUM Simplified joint-stock company. related: ©) Extension request (s): (© Agent (s): LAVOIX.
COMPOSITIONS COMPRISING A FATTY PHASE AND AN AQUEOUS PHASE IN THE FORM OF SOLID SPHERES.
FR 3,063,899 - A1 (tY) The present invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, comprising a fatty phase and an aqueous phase, said aqueous phase being substantially immiscible with the fatty phase, at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure, in which:
the aqueous phase is in the form of spheres (S1) solid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, comprising at least one hydrophilic gelling agent, preferably thermosensitive, and
- The fatty phase comprises at least one lipophilic agent having a suspensive power, preferably thixotropic, preferably a hydrophobic silica.
COMPOSITIONS COMPRISING A FATTY PHASE AND AN AQUEOUS PHASE IN THE FORM OF SOLID SPHERES
The subject of the present invention is compositions, in particular cosmetic compositions, comprising a fatty phase and an aqueous phase, said aqueous phase being in the form of solid spheres. It also relates to the cosmetic use of said compositions, in particular for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, in particular the lips and / or the eyelids.
A recurring problem with cosmetic compositions of the gloss (or lip gloss) type, lipsticks, eyeliners and eye gloss, is their stickiness and / or their low capacity to hydrate the lips or the eyelids continuously. This is explained by their predominantly anhydrous nature. Indeed, it is difficult to maintain the water in a stabilized form in such compositions.
Also, such conventional compositions of the gloss, lipstick, eyeliner and eye gloss type, which confer a high degree of shine on the surface of the lips or eyelids, require the presence of silicone fluids in the composition. Liquid silicones are known for their high refractive indices which provide shine. However, there is a desire to dispense with the implementation of these types of silicone fluids, given their poor environmental profiles and in that they are relatively expensive.
To date, there is therefore a need for new compositions, having both a high gloss and satisfactory hydration, freshness and comfort when applied, preferably devoid of silicone oils.
The object of the present invention is to provide a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, and in particular of the gloss, lipstick, concrete, eyeliners and eye gloss type, having both a high gloss and hydration, freshness and satisfactory application comfort.
The present invention also aims to provide a composition, in particular cosmetic, and in particular of the gloss, lipstick, concrete, eyeliners and eye gloss type, having a satisfactory degree of gloss while being capable of imparting good hold in the time with less tights, good hydration as well as freshness and comfort on application.
The present invention also aims to provide such a composition devoid of silicone oil.
The present invention also aims to provide a composition, in particular cosmetic, and in particular of the gloss, lipstick, eyeliner and eye gloss type, having immediate hydration on application, and which may last up to more than six hours. after application.
The present invention also aims to provide a composition for stabilizing over time an aqueous phase dispersed in a fatty phase without necessarily using conventional stabilization systems, for example of membrane, bark or coacervate type, at the interface between the fatty phase and the aqueous phase.
According to a particular embodiment, the present invention also aims to provide a composition, in particular cosmetic, and in particular of the gloss, lipstick, eyeliners and eye gloss type, comprising a transparent or at least translucent fatty phase.
Thus, the present invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, comprising a fatty phase and an aqueous phase, said aqueous phase being substantially immiscible with the fatty phase, at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure, in which:
the aqueous phase is in the form of spheres (S1) solid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, comprising at least one hydrophilic gelling agent, preferably thermosensitive, and
- The fatty phase comprises at least one lipophilic agent having a suspensive power, preferably thixotropic, preferably a hydrophobic silica.
A composition according to the invention is therefore in the form of a dispersion of spheres (S1) in the fatty phase.
A composition according to the invention therefore comprises an aqueous phase in a continuous fatty phase, the aqueous phase being immiscible with the fatty phase, at ambient temperature (for example T = 25 ° C ± 2 ° C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm of Hg, i.e. 1.013.10 5 Pa or 1013 mbar).
It has surprisingly been found that the compositions according to the invention combine satisfactory properties in terms of shine and resistance over time as well as good hydration (immediate hydration), freshness and comfort on application to the keratin materials (especially less sticky and non-braking). In addition, hydration is all the more advantageous since it is immediate on application and lasts up to more than 6 hours after application.
Thus, a composition according to the invention is a new alternative for stabilizing over time an aqueous phase dispersed in a fatty phase without necessarily having recourse to conventional stabilization systems, for example of the membrane, bark, coacervate type, at the interface between the fatty phase and the aqueous phase.
The stability over time of the spheres (S1) is all the more interesting and unprecedented when they are macroscopic. When the spheres (S1) are macroscopic, a differentiating visual is obtained, in particular in the field of cosmetic compositions of the gloss, lipstick, eyeliners and eye gloss type.
According to one embodiment, at room temperature, that is to say at a temperature equal to 25 ° C ± 2 ° C, the sel® composition of the invention is not a macroscopically homogeneous mixture.
According to the invention, it is the combination between the hydrophilic gelling agent and the lipophilic agent having a suspensive power which makes it possible to stabilize the composition according to the invention, and in particular to prevent and / or avoid the coalescence of spheres (S1) between them and the creaming of the spheres (S1) in the fatty phase.
A composition according to the invention is preferably devoid of surfactant. They therefore differ from the usual cosmetic compositions.
A composition according to the invention is a topical composition, and therefore not an oral composition. Preferably, a composition according to the invention is not a food composition.
Preferably, a composition according to the invention is translucent, even transparent.
The transparency or translucency property of the composition according to the invention is determined as follows: the composition to be tested is poured into a 30mL Volga jar, the composition is left for 24 hours at room temperature and a white sheet is placed below on which is drawn with black felt a cross about 2mm thick. If the cross is visible to the naked eye in daylight at a viewing distance of 40 cm, the composition is transparent or translucent.
This transparent or translucent appearance is very satisfactory, in particular for the consumer, from an aesthetic point of view and can, therefore, be of great commercial interest.
Viscosity
The viscosity of the compositions according to the invention can vary significantly, which makes it possible to obtain various textures.
In particular, the range of viscosity achievable is such that a composition according to the invention dedicated to making up and / or caring for keratin materials, in particular the lips and / or the eyelids, may be a gloss, a lipstick, a eyeliners and an eye gloss.
According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention has a viscosity of between 1 mPa.s and 500,000 mPa.s, preferably between 10 mPa.s and 300,000 mPa.s, and better still between 1,000 mPa.s and 100,000 mPa.s, as measured at 25 ° C.
In particular, a composition according to the invention of the gloss type has a viscosity of between 1,000 mPa.s and 20,000 mPa.s, preferably between 2,000 mPa.s and 15,000 mPa.s, and better still between 5,000 mPa .s and 10,000 mPa.s, as measured at 25 ° C.
Preferably, a composition according to the invention of the gloss type has a viscosity of less than 20,000 mPa.s, better still less than 15,000 mPa.s, and more particularly less than or equal to 10,000 mPa.s.
The viscosity is measured at room temperature, for example T = 25 ° C ± 2 ° C and at room pressure, for example 1013 mbar, by the method described below.
A Brookfield type viscometer is used, typically a Brookfield RVDV-E digital viscometer (torsional torque of the spring of 7187.0 dyne-cm), which is a rotational viscometer at imposed speed provided with a mobile (designated by the English term "Spindle"). A speed is imposed on the rotating mobile and the measurement of the torque exerted on the mobile makes it possible to determine the viscosity by knowing the geometry / shape parameters of the mobile used.
For example, use a mobile of size 05 (Brookfield reference: RV5). The shear rate corresponding to the viscosity measurement is defined by the mobile used and the speed of rotation thereof.
The viscosity measurement is carried out over 1 minute at room temperature (T = 25 ° C ± 2 ° C). One places approximately 150 g of solution in a beaker of 250 ml of volume, having a diameter of approximately 7 cm so that the height of the volume occupied by the 150 g of solution is sufficient to arrive at the marked gauge on the mobile . Then, we start the viscometer at a speed of 10 rpm and wait until the value displayed on the screen is stable. This measurement gives the viscosity of the fluid tested, as mentioned in the context of the present invention.
Aqueous phase
According to the invention, the compositions according to the invention comprise an aqueous phase in the form of spheres (S1) solid at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure.
As indicated above, the ambient temperature corresponds to a temperature of 25 ° C ± 2 ° C, and the atmospheric pressure to a pressure equal to 1013 mbar.
The spheres (S1) are preferably flexible solids. According to the invention, the term "flexible solid" means in particular the fact that the spheres (S1) according to the invention do not flow under their own weight, but can be deformed by pressure, for example with a finger. Thus, their consistency is similar to that of a butter (without the fatty character), with a malleable and grippable character. The spheres (S1) can be easily spread by hand, in particular on a keratinous material, in particular the skin.
Preferably, a flexible solid sphere (S1) according to the invention meets at least one of the physicochemical criteria 1,2.a, 2.b, 2.c and 2.d below, in particular at least two criteria , preferably at least three criteria, better still at least four criteria, or even preferentially the five criteria 1, 2.a, 2.b, 2.c and 2.d, produced on the basis of a bulk of aqueous phase used to manufacture the said spheres (S1). Unless otherwise indicated, these criteria are measured at room temperature (25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure (1 atm).
Criterion 1: the aqueous phase according to the invention has a viscoelastic curve at 25 ° C, measured between 10 2 Hz and 100 Hz, such that there is no crossing point between the curves G 'and G; G 'is always strictly greater than G (for measurements made at a frequency between 10 2 Hz and 100 Hz). The viscoelastic curve is established using a Bohlin Gemini rheometer with imposed stress in plane-plane geometry. The temperature was regulated by a Peltier effect plan and an anti-evaporation device (solvent trap filled with water for measurements at 25 ° C). Measurements were made in oscillation between 10-2 Hz and 100 Hz, at 1% deformation with a striated P40 plane. The deformation of 1% was determined by carrying out an amplitude scan to lie in the linear domain.
We measure G 'which corresponds to the conservation modulus translating the elastic response and the solid character of the sample; we also measure G which corresponds to the loss modulus translating the viscous response and the liquid character of the sample.
Criteria 2.a to 2.d: the aqueous phase according to the invention is such that it has:
2.a) a firmness (in g) less than 400 g, preferably less than 300 g, or even less than 200 g, in particular between 10 g and 400 g, and better still between 100 g and 300 g. Firmness corresponds to the maximum force measured during the compression (descent) phase of the probe in the product. In general, the maximum force is reached when the product breaks. This is why firmness can be called the breaking force;
2.b) breaking work (in gs) less than 1500 gs, preferably less than 1000 gs, even less than 800 gs, and better still less than 500 gs, in particular between 100 gs and 1500 gs, and better still between 250 gs and 1100 gs The breaking work corresponds to the area under the curve Force = f (time) between the moment when the probe touches the surface of the product and the moment when the maximum firmness is measured;
2.c) a deformation work (gs) of less than 1500 gs, preferably less than 1000 gs, or even less than 500 gs, and better still less than 300 gs, in particular between 10 gs and 1500 gs, and better still between 100 gs and 1300 gs The deformation work corresponds to the area under the curve Force = f (time) between the moment when maximum firmness is reached and the moment when the probe is removed from the product; and or
2.d) a sticker (g) less than or equal to 25 g, preferably less than 15 g, and better still less than 10 g, in particular between 1 g and 25 g, and better still between 5 g and 15 g. The tights correspond to the maximum force measured during the withdrawal (ascent) phase of the product probe.
The firmness, breakage, deformation and tackiness measurements were carried out with a TAXT Microstable System texturometer with the following parameters:
- procedure: Teflon finger-shaped cylindrical probe (P / 0.5HS),
-10 mm of penetration,
- Speed 1 mm / s,
- Trigger force = 2g, and
- Measurement carried out in 30mL perfume pots at 20 ° C.
According to one embodiment, the solid spheres (S1) are full.
According to another embodiment, the solid spheres (S1) comprise at least one, preferably a single, internal drop of a composition liquid at room temperature, as described below.
According to one embodiment, a composition according to the invention is prepared by implementing a "non-microfluidic" process, namely by simple emulsification. The size of the spheres (S1) is then less than 500 μm, or even less than 200 μm. Preferably, the size of the spheres (S1) is between 0.5 pm and 50 pm, preferably between 1 pm and 20 pm.
According to this embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises spheres (S1) of reduced size, in particular compared to spheres (S1) obtained by a microfluidic process. This small size will have an effect on the texture. Indeed, a composition according to the invention, formed of spheres (S1) finely dispersed, has improved smoothness qualities.
According to another embodiment, a composition according to the invention is prepared by implementing a "microfluidic" process, in particular as described below. According to this embodiment, the size of the spheres (S1) is macroscopic, that is to say visible to the naked eye, in particular greater than 500 pm, or even greater than 1000 pm. Preferably, according to this embodiment, the size of the spheres (S1) is between 500 and 3000 pm, preferably between 1000 pm and 2000 pm.
As such, it was not obvious that the compositions comprising such spheres (S1) of size greater than 500 μm are stable.
In the context of the present invention, the term size designates the diameter, in particular the average diameter, of the drops.
A composition according to the invention of the gloss / eye gloss type, manufactured with a microfluidic process, has lower viscosities than for conventional liquid gloss / eye gloss (i.e. to remain compatible with the microfluidic device). However, this lower viscosity does not affect the resistance over time on keratin materials, in particular the lips or the eyelids, of a composition according to the invention, and in particular does not affect the resistance of the shine. On the contrary, it improves the comfort / slippery on application and the thinness of the film on keratin materials.
In addition, the compositions of the invention have a novel sensoriality and different from a microfluidic dispersion stabilized with a coacervate (as described for example in application WO 2012/120043). Indeed, the spheres (S1), which can be defined as gelled water balls, have a higher mechanical resistance, more particularly a resistance to crushing; the user therefore really feels the balls crushing on application, without prejudice to the homogeneity of the composition on application.
A composition according to the invention can be described as a macroscopically inhomogeneous mixture of two immiscible phases, in particular when the spheres (S1) are macroscopic.
Preferably, the spheres (S1) are translucent, even transparent.
Preferably, the spheres (S1) are monodisperse. In the context of the present description, the term “monodisperse spheres” means that the population of spheres according to the invention has a uniform size distribution.
In view of the above, the spheres (S1) of a composition according to the invention are devoid of bark or membrane, in particular of polymeric membrane or formed by interfacial polymerization. In particular, the spheres (S1) of a dispersion according to the invention are not stabilized using a coacervate (anionic polymer (carbomer) / cationic polymer (amodimethicone) type).
In other words, the contact between the aqueous phase and the fatty phase is direct, without prejudice to the stability of the composition according to the invention.
The aqueous phase of the compositions of the invention comprises water, and this in a content preferably between 5% and 99% by weight relative to the weight of aqueous phase.
In addition to distilled or deionized water, water suitable for the invention can also be natural spring water or floral water.
According to one embodiment, the aqueous phase represents at least 1%, in particular at least 3%, preferably at least 5%, and better still at least 10%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, the content by weight of aqueous phase is between 1% and 30%, in particular between 1.5% and 20%, in particular between 2% and 10%, preferably between 3% and 7%, and preferably between 4% and 6%, by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.
According to a particular embodiment, the spheres (S1) of a dispersion according to the invention are stabilized using a coacervate at the interface between the aqueous phase and the fatty phase, in which case the aqueous phase comprises at at least a first precursor polymer of the coacervate (anionic type polymer) and the fatty phase comprises at least one second precursor polymer of the coacervate (cationic type polymer).
The formation of the coacervate between these two polymers is generally caused by a modification of the conditions of the reaction medium (temperature, pH, concentration of reagents, etc.). The coacervation reaction results from the neutralization of these two polymers charged with opposite polarities and allows the formation of a membrane structure by electrostatic interactions between the anionic polymer and the cationic polymer. The membrane thus formed around each sphere typically forms a bark which completely encapsulates the heart of the sphere and thus isolates the heart of the sphere from the fatty phase.
In the context of the present description, the term “anionic polymer” (or polymer of anionic type) means a polymer comprising chemical functions of anionic type. We can also speak of an anionic polyelectrolyte.
As an example of anionic type polymer, mention may be made of any polymer formed by the polymerization of monomers at least part of which carries anionic type chemical functions, such as carboxylic acid functions. Such monomers are, for example, acrylic acid, maleic acid, or any ethylenically unsaturated monomer comprising at least one carboxylic acid function. It may for example be an anionic polymer comprising monomer units comprising at least one chemical function of the carboxylic acid type.
Preferably, the anionic polymer is hydrophilic, that is to say soluble or dispersible in water.
Among the examples of anionic polymer suitable for implementing the invention, mention may be made of copolymers of acrylic acid or of maleic acid and of other monomers, such as acrylamide, alkyl acrylates, alkyl acrylates, C 5 -C 8 alkyl acrylates, C 10 -C 30 alkyl methacrylates Ci2-C 22 methacrylates methoxypolyethylene glycol acrylates, hydroxyester, the crosspolymères acrylates, and mixtures.
According to one embodiment, the anionic polymer according to the invention is a carbomer or a crosslinked acrylate / C 10 - 30 alkyl acrylate copolymer. Preferably, the anionic polymer according to the invention is a carbomer.
In the context of the invention, and unless otherwise stated, the term “carbomer” means an optionally crosslinked homopolymer resulting from the polymerization of acrylic acid. It is therefore a poly (acrylic acid) possibly crosslinked.
Among the carbomers of the invention, there may be mentioned those sold under the names Tego®Carbomer 340FD from Evonik, Carbopol® 981 from Lubrizol, Carbopol ETD 2050 from Lubrizol, or even Carbopol Ultrez 10 from Lubrizol.
According to one embodiment, the term “carbomer” or “carbomer” or “Carbopol®” is intended to mean a polymer of high molecular weight acrylic acid crosslinked with allyl sucrose or allyl ethers of pentaerythritol (handbook of Pharmaceutical Excipients, 5 th Edition, plll). For example, it is Carbopol ®10, Carbopol®934, Carbopol®934P, Carbopol®940, Carbopol®941, Carbopol®71G, Carbopol®980, Carbopol®971 P or Carbopol® 974P. According to one embodiment, the viscosity of said carbomer is between 4,000 and 60,000 cP at 0.5% w / w.
Carbomers have other names: polyacrylic acids, carboxyvinyl polymers or carboxy polyethylenes.
According to the invention, the anionic polymer may also be a copolymer crosslinked acrylates / C 10-30 alkyl acrylate (INCI name: acrylates / C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer) as defined above.
According to the invention, the compositions according to the invention can comprise a carbomer and a crosslinked acrylate / Ci 0 - 30 alkyl acrylate copolymer.
In the context of the present application, and unless otherwise stated, the term “cationic polymer” (or polymer of cationic type) means a polymer comprising chemical functions of cationic type. We can also speak of a cationic polyelectrolyte.
Preferably, the cationic polymer is lipophilic or liposoluble.
As an example of a cationic polymer, mention may be made of any polymer formed by the polymerization of monomers at least part of which carries chemical functions of cationic type, such as primary, secondary or tertiary amine functions.
Among the examples of cationic polymers suitable for implementing the invention, there may be mentioned amodimethicone, derived from a silicone polymer (polydimethylsiloxane, also called dimethicone), modified by primary amine and secondary amine functions.
Mention may also be made of amodimethicone derivatives, such as for example copolymers of amodimethicone, aminopropyl dimethicone, and more generally linear or branched silicone polymers comprising amine functions.
Mention may be made of the bis-isobutyl PEG-14 / amodimethicone copolymer, the Bis (C13-15 Alkoxy) PG-Amodimethicone, the Bis-Cetearyl Amodimethicone and the bishydroxy / methoxy amodimethicone.
Mention may also be made of polymers of polysaccharide type comprising amine functions, such as chitosan or guar gum derivatives (hydroxypropyltrimonium guar chloride).
Mention may also be made of polymers of the polypeptide type comprising amine functions, such as polylysine.
Mention may also be made of polymers of polyethyleneimine type comprising amine functions, such as linear or branched polyethyleneimine.
According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the cationic polymer corresponds to the following formula:
in which: 2
- Ri, R 2 and R 3 , independently of each other, represent OH or CH 3 ;
- R 4 represents a group -CH 2 - or a group -X-NH- in which X is a divalent alkylene radical in C3 or C4;
- x is an integer between 10 and 5000, preferably between 30 and 1000, and better still between 80 and 300;
- y is an integer between 2 and 1000, preferably between 4 and 100, and better still between 5 and 20; and
- z is an integer between 0 and 10, preferably between 0 and 1, and better is equal to 1.
In the above formula, when R 4 represents a group -X-NH-, X is linked to the silicon atom. In the above formula, R 15 R 2 and R3 preferably represent CH 3 . In the above formula, R 4 is preferably a group - (CH 2 ) 3 -NH-,
Hydrophilic gelling agent
A composition according to the invention further comprises at least one hydrophilic gelling agent in the aqueous phase, and therefore in the spheres (S1).
According to one embodiment, the hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from the group consisting of natural texture agents, semisynthetic texture agents, synthetic texture agents, and their mixtures.
As hydrophilic texturing agents, that is to say soluble or dispersible in water, and therefore present in the aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention, there may be mentioned:
- natural texture agents, in particular chosen from algae extracts, plant exudates, seed extracts, exudates from microorganisms, such as alkasealan (INCI: Alcaligenes Polysaccharides), and other natural agents,
- semi-synthetic texture agents, in particular chosen from cellulose derivatives and modified starches,
- synthetic texturing agents, in particular chosen from homopolymers of (meth) acrylic acid or one of their esters, copolymers of (meth) acrylic acid or one of their esters, dAMPS (2acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic) copolymers acid), associative polymers,
the other texturing agents, in particular chosen from polyethylene glycols (marketed under the name Carbowax), clays, silicas such as those marketed under the names Aérosil® 90/130/150/200/300/380), glycerin, and
- their mixtures.
By “associative polymer” within the meaning of the present invention is meant any amphiphilic polymer comprising in its structure at least one fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic portion; the associative polymers in accordance with the present invention can be anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric; these are in particular those described in FR 2 999 921. Preferably, these are amphiphilic and anionic associative polymers and amphiphilic and nonionic associative polymers as described below.
Among the natural texturing agents, one can more particularly cite the extracts of algae represented by agar-agar, carrageenans, alginates, and their mixtures.
Among the natural texture agents, mention may more particularly be made of plant exudates represented by tragacanth, Karaya gum, gatty gum, gum arabic, and mixtures thereof.
Among the natural texture agents, mention may more particularly be made of the seed extracts represented by locust bean gum, guar gum, tara gum, konjac gum, pectins, and their mixtures.
Among the natural texturing agents, mention may more particularly be made of the exudates of microorganisms represented by xanthan gum, gellan gum, pullulan, and their mixtures.
Among the natural texturing agents, mention may also be made of other natural agents shown in particular by gelatin, collagen, keratin, vegetable proteins in particular from wheat and / or soybeans, polymers of anionic chitin or chitosan, cationic, non-ionic or amphoteric, hyaluronic acid or one of its salts, in particular sodium hyaluronate such as that sold under the names HA Oligo, SC Hyaluronic Acid or HyaCare, and their mixtures.
Among the semi-synthetic texturing agents, the cellulose derivatives are in particular represented by carboxymethylcellulose (CMC) such as that marketed under the names Aqualon serial or Walocel serial; hydroxypropylcellulose (HPC) such as that sold under the name Klucel HPC; hydroxyethylcellulose (HEC) such as that marketed under the names Cellosize serial or Natrosol 250 serial; hydroxyethyl methylcellulose such as that marketed under the name Walocel series; hydroxypropyl methylcellulose such as that sold under the names Methocel E / F / J / K series from Dow Chemicals, VIVAPHARM CS 152 HV, Benecel E4M, E10M, K100M; methylcellulose such as that marketed under the name Methocel A series; ethylcellulose such as that marketed under the name Ethocel series; microcrystalline cellulose such as that sold under the name Avicel PH serial; alkylhydroxyethylcellulose such as cetylhydroxyethylcellulose sold under the name Polysurf 67, and mixtures thereof.
Among the semi-synthetic texturing agents, the modified starches are derivatives of the starch resulting from the modification of the native starch by etherification, esterification or crosslinking, such as in particular sodium carboxymethyl starch such as that marketed under the names COVAGEL, VIVASTAR® CS 352 SV or VIVASTAR CS 302 SV; hydroxypropyl starch such as that sold under the names Zeina B860, Amaze NI, Amycol SQ, Penon PKW; hydroxypropyl starch phosphate such as that sold under the names Structure ZEA / style / XL; and their mixtures.
Among the synthetic texturing agents, the homopolymers of (meth) acrylic acid or one of their esters are in particular represented by sodium polyacrylates such as those sold under the names Cosmedia SP, Covacryl MV60 / MV40, Cosmedia SPL or Luvigel EM; crosslinked (meth) acrylic acid polymers (or carbomers), such as those marketed under the names Carbopol 900 serial, Carbopol 2984/5984, Carbopol Ultrez 10/30, in particular Carbopole Ultrez 21, Tego Carbomer 134/140 / 141, Aqupec HV505, HV-505HC, HV-504, HV-501, HV-505E, HV-504E, HV-501E, HV-505ED, Ashland 941 carbomer, or Ashland 981 carbomer; and their mixtures. Among these texturing agents, mention may also be made of anionic polymers as mentioned above, in particular the carbomers defined above.
Among the synthetic texturing agents, the (meth) acrylic acid copolymers or one of their esters are in particular represented by glyceryl acrylate / acrylic acid copolymer such as that marketed under the names Lubrajel serial, Lubrasil serial or Norgel ; acrylate copolymers such as those sold under the names Carbopol Aqua SF-1 OS Polymer (INCI name = Acrylates copolymer); sodium acrylates crosspolymer-2 such as that sold under the name Aquakeep 10 SH NF; acrylates / Ci 0 -C 30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymers such as those marketed under the names Carbopol 1342/1382, Carbopol ETD 2020, Pemulen TR-1 / TR-2, Carbopol Ultrez 20/21, Tego Carbomer 341 ER, Tego Carbomer 750 HD, Tego Carbomer 841 SER, Aqupec HV-501 ER, HV-701EDR, HV-501 EM, SER W-150C or SER W-300C; sodium acrylates / beheneth-25 methacrylate crosspolymer such as that sold under the name Novemer EC-2; acrylates / acrylamide copolymers such as that sold under the name Novemer EC-1 by Lubrizol; acrylamide / sodium acrylate copolymers such as that sold under the name Aquagel 55; acrylic Acid / VP crosspolymers such as that sold under the name Ultrathix P-100; and their mixtures.
Among the synthetic texturing agents, the AMPS copolymers are in particular represented by the AMPS NH4 / Vinylpyrrolidone copolymers such as that sold under the name Aristoflex AVC (INCI: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP Copolymer); AMPS NH4 / Beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymers such as that sold under the name Aristoflex HMB (INCI: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / Beheneth-25 methacrylate
Crosspolymer); AMPS Na / Vinylpyrrolidone copolymers such as that sold under the name Aristoflex AVS (INCI: Sodium Acryloyldimethyl taurate / VP Copolymer); AMPS NH4 / 2-Carboxyethylacrylate copolymers such as that sold under the name Aristoflex TAC (INCI: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / carboxyethyl crosspolymer); AMPS Na / Acrylic acid / Sodium Acrylate / Dimethyl acrylamide copolymers such as that sold under the name Simulgel SMS88 (INCI: Sodium
Acrylate / Acryloyldimethyltaurate / Dimethylacrylamide Crosspolymer &
Isohexadecane & Polysorbate 60); AMPS Na / Sodium Acrylate copolymers such as those marketed under the names Simulgel EG (INCI: Sodium Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer & Isohexadecane & Polysorbate 80) or Simulgel EPG (INCI: Sodium Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer & Polyisly Capryl Glucoside); AMPS Na / Acrylamide copolymers such as those sold under the names Simulgel 600 (INCI: Acrylamide / Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / lsohexadecane / Polysorbate-80) or Sepigel 305 (INCI: Polyacrylamide / C13-C14 lsoparaffin / Laureth-7); AMPS Na / hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymers such as those sold under the names Simulgel NS (INCI: hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer & squalane & polysorbate-60), Simulgel INS 100 (INCI: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer & Isohexadecane & 60), Simulgel FL (INCI: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer & Isohexadecane & Polysorbate 60), Sepinov WEO or Sepinov EMT 10 (INCI: hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer); acryloyl Dimethyltaurate / Sodium Acrylate / Dimethylacrylamide crosspolymers such as that sold under the name Sepinov P88 (INCI: Sodium Acrylate / Acryloyldimethyltaurate / Dimethylacrylamide Crosspolymer); and their mixtures.
Among the synthetic texturing agents, mention may also be made of PVP such as that sold under the name FlexiThix polymer.
Among the synthetic texturing agents, the amphiphilic and anionic associative polymers are in particular represented by the acrylates / Steareth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer such as that marketed under the name Aculyn 22; acrylates / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer such as that sold under the name Aculyn 28; C 30 - 38 Olefin / lsopropyl Maleate / MA Copolymer such as that marketed under the name Performa V 1608; Acrylates / Steareth-20 Methacrylate Crosspolymer such as that sold under the name Aculyn 88; Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6 such as that sold under the name Sepimax Zen; Acrylates / Ci 0 -C 30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymers such as those mentioned above; and their mixtures.
Among the synthetic texturing agents, the amphiphilic and nonionic associative polymers are in particular represented by PEG-150 distearate such as that sold under the name Emanon 3299V; PEG-150 / Decyl Alcohol / SMDI Copolymer such as that sold under the name Aculyn 44; PEG-150 / stearyl alcohol / SMDI copolymer such as that sold under the name Aculyn 46; acrylates / ceteth-20 itaconate copolymer such as that sold under the name Structure 3001 by AkzoNobel Personal Care; polyurethane polyethers such as those sold under the names Rheolate FX 1100, Rheolate 205, Rheolate 208/204/212, Elfacos T1212, Acrysol RM 184 / RM 2020, Adeka Nol GT-700 / GT-730; polyurethane39 such as that marketed under the name Luvigel Star; cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose such as those sold under the names Natrosol ™ Plus or PolySurf ™ 67; and their mixtures.
Mention may also be made, as texturing agents of the aqueous phase, of clays, in particular represented by bentonite such as that sold under the names Veegum, Veegum HS or Vanatural; montmorillonite, hectorite such as that sold under the names Bentone serial or Hectone serial; kaolinite, and their mixtures.
The composition according to the invention may comprise a single hydrophilic gelling agent as defined above, or a mixture of at least two hydrophilic gelling agents as defined above.
A composition according to the invention comprises a sufficient amount of hydrophilic gelling agent (s), in particular thermosensitive (s), to prevent / limit the phenomena of coalescence of the spheres (S1) between them. Advantageously, the content of hydrophilic gelling agent (s) is between 0.1% and 15%, preferably between 0.3% and 10%, preferably between 0.5% and 5%, in particular between 0.8% and 3%, in particular between 1% and 2%, by weight relative to the weight of aqueous phase of said composition.
Preferably, the content of hydrophilic gelling agent (s) is between 0.5% and 0.9% by weight relative to the weight of aqueous phase of said composition. This range is particularly advantageous in that it provides a fair compromise between good mechanical resistance of the spheres (S1) and crushing on application; this property gives a particular sensoriality to the application since the user really feels the spheres (S1) crashing into the application.
According to one embodiment, the aqueous phase comprises at least two hydrophilic gelling agents, at least one being a heat-sensitive hydrophilic gelling agent.
According to the invention, the expression “thermophilic hydrophilic gelling agent” designates a hydrophilic gelling agent making it possible to increase the viscosity of the aqueous phase of the spheres (S1) devoid of said gelling agent, this viscosity evolving reversibly as a function of their temperature.
Thus, a heat-sensitive hydrophilic gelling agent within the meaning of the present invention is a compound having a melting point above which it is in a liquid form, but below which it is in a solid form and therefore contributes to increasing the viscosity of the phase comprising it.
Among these hydrophilic heat-sensitive gelling agents, mention may be made, for example, of gelatin, pectin, agar-agar, and their mixtures.
Preferably, agar is used as a hydrophilic heat-sensitive gelling agent. A preferred composition according to the invention therefore comprises agar-agar as a gelling agent. Agar-agar is particularly advantageous in that it exhibits good transparency when cold as well as a good “gelling / crushing speed on application” ratio.
According to a preferred embodiment, the content of hydrophilic gelling agent (s) thermosensitive (s), in particular agar-agar, is between 0.1% and 15%, preferably between 0.3 % and 10%, preferably between 0.5% and 5%, in particular between 0.8% and 3%, in particular between 1% and 2% or even between 0.3% and 0.8%, by weight relative to the weight of aqueous phase of said composition.
Fat phase
According to the invention, the compositions according to the invention comprise a fatty phase (or continuous phase) in which the aforementioned solid spheres (S1) are dispersed.
The fatty phase according to the invention can represent at least 70%, in particular at least 80%, preferably at least 90%, and better still at least 95%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
According to one embodiment, in the compositions according to the invention, the fatty phase content is between 70% and 99%, preferably between 70% and 95%, in particular between 75% and 90%, and preferably between 80% and 85%, by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.
According to a first alternative embodiment, the fatty phase is suspensive with respect to the spheres (S1). Thus, the spheres (S1) remain suspended in the fatty phase over an extended period of time, for example greater than 1 month, preferably greater than 3 months, and better still greater than 6 months. In addition to the associated visual, this variant is advantageous in that it makes it possible to prevent / limit the phenomena of coalescence of the spheres (S1) between them and / or of creaming of the spheres (S1) in the fatty phase.
According to a second alternative embodiment, the fatty phase is nonsuspensive with respect to the spheres (S1). Thus, with the naked eye, a separation of the spheres (S1) from the fatty phase is observed over a period of time of less than 1 month, preferably less than 15 days, better less than 1 week, or even less than 1 day. Such a composition according to the invention is then qualified as a two-phase composition. This separation can result from sedimentation or creaming of the spheres (S1) in the fatty phase.
This separation can be immediate after mixing a composition according to the invention. In other words, the separation between the spheres (S1) and the fatty phase can take place over a period of time between 5 and 60 seconds.
This separation of the two phases of a composition according to the invention can be carried out over a longer period of time after mixing a composition according to the invention. In other words, the separation between the spheres (S1) and the fatty phase can take place over a period of time greater than 1 minute, in particular between 1 minute and 300 minutes.
Generally, the separation of the spheres (S1) relative to the aqueous continuous phase is done by sedimentation of the spheres (S1), taking into account their hydrophilic nature, and therefore their density generally greater than that of the fatty phase.
However, the separation of the spheres (S1) from the fatty phase can also be done by creaming the spheres (S1), in which case the person skilled in the art must select the oil (s) so that the spheres (S1) have a density lower than that of the fatty phase. These selections are part of the general knowledge of a person skilled in the art. For example, one can choose an oil of the fluorosilicone type (known to have a density greater than 1).
These suspensiveness / non-suspensiveness properties of the spheres (S1) in the fatty phase are in particular conditioned by the nature and / or the content of oil (s) and / or of lipophilic agent (s) having a suspensive power.
The adaptations of the fatty phase, in particular at the level of the nature and / or of the oil content (s) and / or lipophilic agent (s) having a suspensive power vis-à-vis this suspensiveness / non-suspensiveness of the spheres (S1) in the fatty phase fall within the general knowledge of a person skilled in the art in the light of the teaching of the present description.
Advantageously, the fatty phase is shear thinning or pseudoplastic at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Rheofluidification refers to the fact, for a fluid, of "becoming more fluid" when the flow speed increases. More precisely, this designates the fact that the dynamic viscosity decreases when the shear rate increases. We also speak of shear thinning or shear thinning or pseudo-plasticity.
Advantageously, the fatty phase is thixotropic at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.
Lipophilic agent with suspensive power
According to the invention, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one lipophilic agent having a suspensive power. For obvious reasons, this suspensive power is appreciated in relation to the spheres (S1). Indeed, this lipophilic agent having a suspensive power participates in stabilizing the composition according to the invention, and in particular in preventing and / or avoiding the coalescence of the spheres (S1) between them and their creaming in the fatty phase.
It can also comprise a mixture of at least two lipophilic agents having a suspensive power.
Preferably, the lipophilic agent having a suspensive power according to the invention is chosen from lipophilic gelling agents well known to those skilled in the art, and this as detailed below.
According to one embodiment, the lipophilic gelling agent having a suspensive power is chosen from organic or mineral, polymeric or molecular lipophilic gelling agents; solid fatty substances at room temperature and pressure; and their mixtures.
“Lipophilic gelling agent” is understood to mean, within the meaning of the present invention, a compound capable of gelling the fatty phase of the compositions according to the invention.
The gelling agent is liposoluble or lipodispersible.
As appears from what follows, the lipophilic gelling agent is advantageously chosen from particulate gelling agents; organopolysiloxane elastomers; semi-crystalline polymers; polyacrylates; sugar / polysaccharide esters, in particular dextrin esters, inulin esters, glycerol esters; hydrogen-bonded polymers; hydrocarbon block copolymers and their mixtures.
Particulate gelling agents
The particulate gelling agent used in the composition according to the invention is in the form of particles, preferably spherical. As a representative of the lipophilic particulate gelling agents which are suitable for the invention, mention may very particularly be made of waxes, polar and apolar, butters, modified clays, silicas such as fumed silicas and hydrophobic silica aerogels.
By “wax” considered in the context of the present invention, is generally meant a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25 ° C.), reversible solid / liquid change of state having a higher or equal melting point. at 30 ° C up to 200Ό and in particular up to 120 ° C. Within the meaning of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in standard ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by the company TA Instruments. The measurement protocol is as follows: A sample of 5 mg of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise ranging from -20 ° C to 100 ° C, at the heating rate of 10 ° C / minute, then is cooled from 100 ° C to -20 ° C at a cooling rate of 10 ° C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise ranging from -20 ° C to 100 ° C at a heating rate of 5 ° C / minute. During the second temperature rise, the variation in the difference in power absorbed by the empty crucible and by the crucible containing the wax sample is measured as a function of the temperature. The melting point of the compound is the value of the temperature corresponding to the top of the peak of the curve representing the variation of the difference in absorbed power as a function of the temperature. The waxes capable of being used in the compositions according to the invention are chosen from waxes, solid, at room temperature of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin and their mixtures.
The waxes, within the meaning of the invention, can be those generally used in the cosmetic or dermatological fields. They can in particular be polar or apolar, silicone and / or fluorinated hydrocarbons, optionally comprising ester or hydroxyl functions. They can also be of natural or synthetic origin.
By “apolar wax”, within the meaning of the present invention, is meant a wax whose solubility parameter at 25 ° C as defined below, é a is equal to 0 (J / cm 3 ) 1/2 . The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters in Hansen's three-dimensional solubility space are described in the article by CM Hansen: "The three dimensionnai solubility parameters" J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967).
According to this Hansen space:
- é D characterizes the London dispersion forces resulting from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular shocks;
- δ ρ characterizes the Debye interaction forces between permanent dipoles as well as the Keesom interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles;
- ô h characterizes the specific interaction forces (such as hydrogen bonds, acid / base, donor / acceptor, etc.);
- ô a is determined by the equation: ôa = ((δ ρ 2 + ô h 2 ) 1/2 .
The parameters δ ρ , ô h , δ 0 and δ 3 are expressed in (J / cm 3 ) 1/2 .
Apolar waxes are in particular hydrocarbon waxes consisting only of carbon and hydrogen atoms and free of heteroatoms such as N, O, Si and P.
The apolar waxes are chosen from microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite, polyethylene waxes, and their mixtures. As ozokerite, mention may be made of Ozokerite Wax SP 1020 P. As microcrystalline waxes which can be used, mention may be made of Multiwax W 445® sold by the company Sonneborn, Microwax HW® and Base Wax 30540® 25 sold by the company Paramelt, and Cerewax ® N ° 3 marketed by the company Baerlocher.
As micro-waxes which can be used in the compositions according to the invention as apolar wax, mention may especially be made of polyethylene micro-waxes such as those sold under the names of Micropoly 200®, 30 220®, 220L® and 2505® by the company Micro Powders. As polyethylene wax, mention may be made of Performalene 500-L Polyethylene and Performalene 400 Polyethylene sold by New Phase Technologies, Asensa® SC 211 sold by Honeywell.
By “polar wax”, within the meaning of the present invention, is meant a wax whose solubility parameter at 25 ° C5 a is different from 0 (J / cm 3 ) 1/2 . In particular, by “polar wax” is meant a wax whose chemical structure is formed essentially, or even constituted, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and comprising at least one highly electronegative heteroatom such as an oxygen atom , nitrogen, silicon or phosphorus. The polar waxes can in particular be hydrocarbon-based, fluorinated or silicone-based. Preferably, the polar waxes can be hydrocarbon-based.
By “hydrocarbon wax” is meant a wax formed essentially, or even made up, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally of oxygen, nitrogen atoms and not containing any silicon or fluorine atom. . It can contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups.
By “ester wax” is meant according to the invention a wax comprising at least one ester function.
By “alcohol wax” is meant according to the invention a wax comprising at least one alcohol function, that is to say comprising at least one free hydroxyl group (OH).
One can in particular use as ester wax:
- ester waxes, such as those chosen from:
i) the waxes of formula FLCOOFÇ in which FL and R 2 represent linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chains the number of atoms of which varies from 10 to 50, which may contain a heteroatom such as O, N or P and the temperature of which melting point ranges from 25 to 120 ° C;
ii) di- (trimethylol-1,1,1 propane) tetrastearate, sold under the name Hest 2T-4S by the company Heterene;
iii) diester waxes of a dicarboxylic acid of general formula R 3 - (OCOR4-COO-R5), in which R 3 and R 5 are identical or different, preferably identical, and represent a C 4 -C alkyl group 30 (alkyl group comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms) and R 4 represents a C 4 -C 30 aliphatic group (alkyl group comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms) branched linear may or may not contain one or more unsaturation (s ), and preferably linear and unsaturated;
iv) Mention may also be made of the waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having fatty chains, linear or branched, of C 8 -C 32 , for example such as hydrogenated jojoba oil, sunflower oil hydrogenated, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, as well as the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol;
v) beeswax, synthetic beeswax, polyglycerolated beeswax, carnauba wax, candellila wax, oxypropylenated lanolin wax, rice bran wax, Ouricury wax , Alfa wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax, sumac wax, montan wax, Orange wax, Bay laurel wax, Hydrogenated jojoba, sunflower wax, lemon wax, olive wax, berry wax.
In particular, mention may be made of C18-C38 FATTY ALCOHOL HYDROXYSTEAROYL STEARATE; INCI name: SYNTHETIC BEESWAX and sold under the name KESTERWAX K82P by the company Koster Keunen.
According to another embodiment, the polar wax can be an alcohol wax. By “alcohol wax” is meant according to the invention a wax comprising at least one alcohol function, that is to say comprising at least one free hydroxyl group (OH). As alcohol wax, there may be mentioned for example the wax C30-50 Alcohols Performacol 0 550 Alcohol sold by the company New Phase Technologie, stearic alcohol, cetyl alcohol.
It is also possible to use silicone waxes which can advantageously be substituted polysiloxanes, preferably with a low melting point. By “silicone wax” is meant an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular comprising Si-O groups. Among the commercial silicone waxes of this type, there may be mentioned in particular those sold under the names Abilwax 9800, 9801 or 9810 (Goldschmidt), KF910 and KF7002 (Shin Etsu), or 176-1118-3 and 176-11481 (General Electric ).
The silicone waxes which can be used can also be alkyl or alkoxydimethicones, as well as the (C 2 oC 6 o) alkyldimethicones, in particular the (C 30 C 45 ) alkyldimethicones such as the silicone wax sold under the name SF1642 by the company GE-Bayer Silicones or C 30 - 45 Alkyldimethylsilyl Polypropylsilsesquioxane under the name SW-8005® C30 Resin Wax sold by the company Dow Corning.
In the context of the present invention, mention may be made, as particularly advantageous waxes, of polyethylene waxes, jojoba wax, and silicone waxes.
According to a particular form of the invention, waxes with a melting point greater than 45 ° C. comprising one or more C 40 -C 70 ester compounds and not comprising a C 20 -C 39 ester compound will be used. By “ester compound” is meant any organic molecule comprising a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain, comprising at least one ester function of formula COOR where R represents a hydrocarbon radical, in particular a linear and saturated alkyl radical. By "wax not comprising a C 20 -C 39 ester compound" is meant any wax containing less than 1% by weight of C 20 -C 39 ester compound, preferably less than 0.5% by weight. relative to the weight of the wax, even free of C 2 oC 39 ester compound.
The waxes according to the invention can also be used in the form of a mixture of waxes. The content of ester comprising from 40 to 70 carbon atoms preferably varies from 20 to 100% by weight and preferably from 20 to 90% by weight relative to the total weight in wax (es).
More particularly, candellila wax and / or beeswax will be used.
We can also cite CRYSTALWAX (INCI: Hydroxystearic Acid (and) Synthetic Wax (and) Triisostearin (and) Polybutene (and) Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate) sold by the company Sensient Cosmetic Technologies.
By “butter” (also called “pasty fatty substance”) within the meaning of the present invention, is meant a lipophilic fatty compound with reversible solid / liquid state change and comprising at the temperature of 25 ° C. a liquid fraction and a solid fraction, and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg). In other words, the starting melting temperature of the pasty compound can be less than 25 ° C. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 25 ° C can represent from 9% to 97% by weight of the compound. This liquid fraction at 25 ° C preferably represents between 15% and 85%, more preferably between 40 and 85% by weight. Preferably, the butter or butter has a melting temperature below 60 ° C. Preferably, the butter or butter has a hardness less than or equal to 6 MPa.
Preferably, the pasty butters or fatty substances have an anisotropic crystalline organization in the solid state, visible by X-ray observations.
Within the meaning of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in standard ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of a pasty or a wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC Q2000 by the company TA Instruments.
Concerning the measurement of the melting temperature and the determination of the end-of-melting temperature, the protocols for preparing the samples and for measuring are as follows: A sample of 5 mg of pasty fatty substance (or butter) or of wax previously heated at 80 ° C and taken with magnetic stirring using a spatula also heated is placed in an airtight aluminum capsule, or crucible. Two tests are carried out to ensure the reproducibility of the results.
The measurements are carried out on the calorimeter mentioned above. The oven is subjected to a nitrogen sweep. The cooling is ensured by the RCS 90 heat exchanger. The sample is then subjected to the following protocol by first being brought to temperature at 20 ° C., then subjected to a first temperature rise ranging from 20 ° C. to 80 ° C, at the heating rate of 5 ° C / minute, then is cooled from 80 ° C to -80 ° C at a cooling rate of 5 ° C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from -80 ° C to 80 ° C at a heating rate of 5 ° C / minute. During the second temperature rise, the variation in the difference in power absorbed by the empty crucible and by the crucible containing the butter sample is measured as a function of the temperature. The melting point of the compound is the value of the temperature corresponding to the top of the peak of the curve representing the variation of the difference in absorbed power as a function of the temperature. The end of melting temperature corresponds to the temperature at which 95% of the sample has melted.
The liquid fraction by weight of the butter (or pasty fatty substance) at 25 ° C is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 25 ° C to the enthalpy of fusion of the butter. The enthalpy of fusion of the butter or pasty compound is the enthalpy consumed by the compound to pass from the solid state to the liquid state.
Butter is said to be in the solid state when all of its mass is in crystalline solid form. Butter is said to be in a liquid state when all of its mass is in liquid form. The enthalpy of fusion of the butter is equal to the integral of the whole of the melting curve obtained using the abovementioned calorimeter, with a rise in temperature of 5 ° C. or 10 ° C. per minute, according to the standard. ISO 113573: 1999. The enthalpy of fusion of butter is the amount of energy required to move the compound from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J / g.
The enthalpy of fusion consumed at 25 ° C is the amount of energy absorbed by the sample to pass from the solid state to the state it presents at 25 ° C consisting of a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. The liquid fraction of the butter measured at 32 ° C. preferably represents from 30% to 100% in pots of the compound, preferably from 50% to 100%, more preferably from 60% to 100% by weight of the compound. When the liquid fraction of the butter measured at 32 ° C is equal to 100%, the temperature at the end of the melting range of the pasty compound is less than or equal to 32 ° C. The liquid fraction of the butter measured at 32 ° C is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32 ° C to the melting enthalpy of the butter. The enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32 ° C is calculated in the same way as the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23 ° C.
Concerning the measurement of hardness, the protocols for preparing the samples and for measuring are as follows: the composition according to the invention or the butter is placed in a mold with a diameter of 75 mm which is filled to about 75% of its height. In order to get rid of the thermal past and to control crystallization, the mold is placed in the Vôtsch VC0018 programmable oven where it is first brought to temperature at 80 ° C for 60 rrinutes, then cooled from 80 ° C to 0 ° C at a cooling rate of 5 ° C / minute, then left at the stabilized temperature of 0 ° C for 60 minutes, then subjected to a temperature rise ranging from 0 ° C to 20 ° C, at a speed of SC heating / minute, then left at the stabilized temperature of 20 ° C for 180 minutes. The compression force is measured with the TA / TX2Î texturometer from Swantech. The mobile used is chosen according to the texture: - cylindrical mobile in steel with a diameter of 2 mm for very rigid raw materials; - 12 mm diameter cylindrical steel mobile for less rigid raw materials. The measurement comprises 3 stages: a 1st stage after automatic detection of the surface of the sample where the mobile moves at the measuring speed of 0.1 mm / s, and enters the composition according to the invention or the butter to a penetration depth of 0.3 mm, the software notes the value of the maximum force reached; a 2nd so-called relaxation step where the mobile remains in this position for one second and where the force is noted after 1 second of relaxation; finally a 3rd step called withdrawal or the mobile returns to its initial position at the speed of 1 mm / s and the energy of withdrawal of the probe is noted (negative force).
The hardness value measured during the first step corresponds to the maximum compression force measured in Newton divided by the surface area of the texturometer cylinder expressed in mm 2 in contact with the butter or the composition according to the invention. The hardness value obtained is expressed in megapascals or MPa.
The pasty fatty substance or butter can be chosen from synthetic compounds and compounds of plant origin. A pasty fatty substance can be obtained by synthesis from starting materials of plant origin.
The pasty fatty substance is advantageously chosen from:
lanolin and its derivatives such as lanolin alcohol, oxyethylenated lanolines, acetylated lanolin, lanolin esters such as isopropyl lanolate, oxypropylenated lanolines,
- polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds such as polydimethysiloxanes of high molecular weights, polydimethysiloxanes with side chains of the alkyl or alkoxy type having from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular stearyl dimethicones,
- polymeric or non-polymeric fluorinated compounds, 4- vinyl polymers, in particular
- homopolymers of olefins,
- olefin copolymers,
- homopolymers and copolymers of hydrogenated dienes,
- linear or branched oligomers, homo or copolymers of alkyl (meth) acrylates preferably having a C 8 -C 30 alkyl group,
- homo oligomers and copolymers of vinyl esters having C 8 -C 30 alkyl groups,
- homo oligomers and copolymers of vinyl ethers having C 8 -C 30 alkyl groups,
- the liposoluble polyethers resulting from the polyetherification between one or more C 2 -C 100 , preferably C 2 -C 50 , diols,
- esters and polyesters, and
- their mixtures.
According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the particular butters are of vegetable origin such as those described in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry ("Fats and Fatty Oils", A. Thomas, published on 06/15/2000, D01 : 10.1002 / 14356007.a10_173, point 13.2.2.2. Shea Butter, Borneo Tallow, and Related Fats (Vegetable Butters)).
Mention may more particularly be made of C10-C18 triglycerides (INCI name: C10-18 Triglycerides) comprising at the temperature of 25 ° C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg) a liquid fraction and a solid fraction, shea butter, Nilotica shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Galam butter, (Butyrospermum parkii), Borneo or tengkawang tallow butter or fat (Shorea stenoptera), Shorea butter, Illipé butter, Madhuca or Bassia Madhuca butter longifolia, mowrah butter (Madhuca Latifolia), Katiau butter (Madhuca mottleyana), Phulwara butter (M. butyracea), mango butter (Mangifera indica), Murumuru butter (Astrocatyum murumuru), Kokum butter (Garcinia Indica), Ucuuba butter (Virola sebifera), Tucuma butter, Painya butter (Kpangnan) (Pentadesma butyracea), coffee butter (Coffea arabica), apricot butter (Prunus Armeniaca) , Macadamia butter (Macadamia Temifolia), pe butter grape pine (Vitis vinifera), avocado butter (Persea gratissima), olive butter (Olea europaea), sweet almond butter (Prunus amygdalus dulcis), cocoa butter (Theobroma cocoa) and sunflower butter, the butter under the name INCI Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter, the butter under the name INCI Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter, and the butter under the name INCI Irvingia Gabonensis Kernel Butter, the esters of jojoba (mixture of wax and oil hydrogenated jojoba) (INCI name: Jojoba esters) and shea butter ethyl esters (INCI name: Shea butter ethyl esters), and mixtures thereof.
The composition according to the invention can comprise at least one lipophilic clay. The clays can be natural or synthetic and they are made lipophilic by treatment with an alkyl ammonium salt such as a C 10 to C 22 ammonium chloride, for example di-stearyl di-methyl ammonium chloride. They can be chosen from bentonites, in particular hectorites and montmorillonites, beidellites, saponites, nontronites, sepiolite, biotites, attapulgites, vermiculites and zeolites.
Preferably, they are chosen from hectorites. Preferably, as lipophilic clays, hectorites modified with a C w to C 22 ammonium chloride are used, such as hectorite modified with distearyl di-methyl ammonium chloride such as, for example, that sold under the name Bentone 38V® by the company Elementis or the bentone gel in isododecane marketed under the name Bentone Gel ISD V® (Isododecane 87% / Disteardimonium Hectorite 10% / Propylene carbonate 3%) by the company Elementis.
The fatty phase of a composition according to the invention can also comprise, as a gelling agent, a fumed silica or silica airgel particles.
Particularly suitable for the invention, fumed silica treated hydrophobically at the surface. It is indeed possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica, by chemical reaction generating a reduction in the number of silanol groups present on the surface of the silica. Silanol groups can in particular be substituted by hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained.
The hydrophobic groups can be:
- Trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are obtained in particular by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas thus treated are called "Silica silylate" according to the CTFA (8th edition,
2000). They are for example marketed under the Aerosil R812® references by the company Degussa, CAB-O-SIL TS-530® by the company Cabot.
- Dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are in particular obtained by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas thus treated are called "Silica dimethyl silylate" according to the CTFA (8th edition, 2000). They are for example marketed under the references Aerosil R972®, and Aerosil R974® by the company Degussa, CAB-O-SIL TS-610® and CAB-O-SIL TS-720® by the company Cabot.
The oily phase of a composition according to the invention can also comprise, as gelling agent, at least particles of silica aerogels. Silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air. They are generally synthesized by sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then usually dried by extraction of a supercritical fluid, the most commonly used being supercritical CO 2 . This type of drying prevents contraction of the pores and the material. The sol-gel process and the various dryings are described in detail in Brinker CJ., And Scherer GW, Sol-Gel Science: New York: Academie Press, 1990. The particles of hydrophobic silica aerogels used in the present invention exhibit a specific surface area per unit mass (SM) ranging from 500 to 1,500 m 2 / g, preferably from 600 to 1,200 m 2 / g and better still from 600 to 800 m 2 / g, and a size expressed in mean diameter in volume (D [0.5]) ranging from 1 to 1500 gm, better still from 1 to 1000 gm, preferably from 1 to 100 gm, in particular from 1 to 30 gm, more preferably from 5 to 25 gm, better from 5 to 20 gm and even better better from 5 to 15 gm.
According to one embodiment, the particles of hydrophobic silica aerogels used in the present invention have a size expressed in mean diameter by volume (D [0.5]) ranging from 1 to 30 gm, preferably from 5 to 25 gm , better from 5 to 20 gm and even better still from 5 to 15 gm. The specific surface area per unit mass can be determined by the nitrogen absorption method called the BET method (Brunauer - Emmet - Teller) described in "The journal of the American Chemical Society", vol. 60, page 309, February 1938 and corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794/1 (annex D). The BET specific surface corresponds to the total specific surface of the particles considered. The sizes of the silica airgel particles can be measured by static light scattering using a commercial granulometer of the MasterSizer 2000 type from Malvern. The data is processed on the basis of Mie diffusion theory. This theory, exact for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine in the case of non-spherical particles, an "effective" diameter of particles. This theory is notably described in the work of Van de Hulst, H.C., "Light Scattering by 20 Small Particles", Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.
According to an advantageous embodiment, the particles of hydrophobic silica aerogels used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit mass (SM) ranging from 600 to 800 m 2 / g.
The silica airgel particles used in the present invention can advantageously have a packed density p ranging from 0.02 g / cm 3 to 0.10 g / cm 3 , preferably from 0.03 g / cm 3 to 0, 08 g / cm 3 , in particular ranging from 0.05 g / cm 3 to 0.08 g / cm 3 . In the context of the present invention, this density can be assessed according to the following protocol, called the packed density: 40 g of powder are poured into a graduated cylinder; then place the test piece on the STAV 2003 device from Stampf Volumeter; the test piece is then subjected to a series of 2,500 settlements (this operation is repeated until the difference in volume between 2 consecutive tests is less than 2%); then the final volume Vf of packed powder is measured directly on the test-tube. The packed density is determined by the ratio m / Vf, in this case 40 / Vf (Vf being expressed in cm 3 and m in g).
According to a preferred embodiment, the particles of hydrophobic silica aerogels used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit volume SV ranging from 5 to 60 m 2 / cm 3 , preferably from 10 to 50 m 2 / cm 3 and better from 15 to 40 m 2 / cm 3 . The specific surface per unit of volume is given by the relation: Sv = SM xp; where p is the packed density expressed in g / cm 3 and SM is the specific surface per unit of mass expressed in m 2 / g, as defined above.
Preferably, the hydrophobic silica airgel particles according to the invention have an oil absorption capacity measured at the Wet Point ranging from 5 to 18 ml / g, preferably from 6 to 15 ml / g and better still from 8 at 12 ml / g. The absorption capacity measured at the Wet Point, and noted Wp, corresponds to the amount of oil which must be added to 100 g of particles to obtain a homogeneous paste. It is measured according to the so-called Wet Point method or method for determining the powder oil intake described in standard NF T 30-022. It corresponds to the quantity of oil adsorbed on the available surface of the powder and / or absorbed by the powder by measuring the Wet Point, described below: An amount m = 2 g of powder is placed on a glass plate then the oil (isononyl isononanoate) is added dropwise. After adding 4 to 5 drops of oil to the powder, mix with a spatula and continue adding oil until the formation of oil and powder conglomerates. From this point, add the oil one drop at a time and then triturate the mixture with the spatula. The addition of oil is stopped when a firm and smooth paste is obtained. This paste should be allowed to spread on the glass plate without cracks or lump formation. The volume Vs (expressed in ml) of oil used is then noted. The oil intake corresponds to the Vs / m ratio.
The aerogels used according to the present invention are hydrophobic silica aerogels, preferably silylated silica (INCI name: silica silylate).
The term “hydrophobic silica” means any silica whose surface is treated with silylating agents, for example with halogenated silanes such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, so as to functionalize the OH groups with silyl Si-Rn groups, for example trimethylsilyl groups. Concerning the preparation of hydrophobic silica airgel particles modified on the surface by silylation, reference may be made to document US Pat. No. 7,470,725. Use will preferably be made of hydrophobic silica airgel particles modified on the surface by trimethylsilyl groups, preferably INCI name Silica silylate. As hydrophobic silica aerogels which can be used in the invention, mention may be made, for example, of the airgel marketed under the name VM-2260 or VM-2270 (INCI name: Silica silylate) by the company Dow Corning, whose particles have an average size of around 1000 microns and a specific surface per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m 2 / g. Mention may also be made of the aerogels marketed by the Cabot company under the references Aerogel TLD 201, Aerogel OGD 201, Aerogel TLD 203, ENOVA® Aerogel MT 1100, ENOVA Aerogel MT 1200. The airgel marketed under the name VM- will preferably be used 2270 (INCI name Silica silylate), by the company Dow Corning, whose particles have an average size ranging from 5-15 microns and a specific surface per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m 2 / g.
Organopolysiloxane elastomer
The advantage of organopolysiloxane elastomer is that it gives the composition according to the invention good application properties. It provides a very soft feel after application, particularly advantageous for application to the skin. It can also allow effective filling of the recesses present on keratin materials.
By “organopolysiloxane elastomer” or “silicone elastomer” is meant a flexible, deformable organopolysiloxane having viscoelastic properties and in particular the consistency of a sponge or a flexible sphere. Its modulus of elasticity is such that this material resists deformation and has a capacity limited to extension and contraction. This material is able to regain its original shape after stretching. It is more particularly a crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomer.
Thus, the organopolysiloxane elastomer can be obtained by crosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon and of diorganopolysiloxane having ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to silicon, in particular in the presence of platinum catalyst; or by dehydrogenation crosslinking condensation reaction between a diorganopolysiloxane containing hydroxyl endings and a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon, in particular in the presence of an organotin; or by crosslinking condensation reaction of a diorganopolysiloxane with hydroxyl endings and of a hydrolyzable organopolysilane; or by thermal crosslinking of organopolysiloxane, in particular in the presence of an organoperoxide catalyst; or by crosslinking of organopolysiloxane by high energy radiation such as gamma rays, ultraviolet rays, electron beam.
Preferably, the organopolysiloxane elastomer is obtained by crosslinking addition reaction (A) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each linked to a silicon, and (B) of diorganopolysiloxane having at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups linked to silicon , in particular in the presence (C) of a platinum catalyst, as for example described in the application EP-A-295886.
In particular, the organopolysiloxane elastomer can be obtained by reaction of dimethylpolysiloxane with dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups and methylhydrogenopolysiloxane with trimethylsiloxy end groups, in the presence of a platinum catalyst. Compound (A) is the basic reagent for the formation of elastomeric organopolysiloxane and crosslinking is carried out by addition reaction of compound (A) with compound (B) in the presence of catalyst (C). Compound (A) is in particular an organopolysiloxane having at least two hydrogen atoms linked to distinct silicon atoms in each molecule. The compound (A) can have any molecular structure, in particular a linear chain or branched chain structure or a cyclic structure. Compound (A) can have a viscosity at 25 ° C ranging from 1 to 50,000 certistokes, in particular to be well miscible with compound (B). The organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms of compound (A) can be alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2phenylpropyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl, xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group, or a mercapto group. Compound (A) can thus be chosen from methylhydrogenopolysiloxanes with trimethylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane copolymers with trimethylsiloxy terminations, cyclic dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane copolymers. Compound (B) is advantageously a diorganopolysiloxane having at least two lower alkenyl groups (for example C 2 -C 4 ); the lower alkenyl group can be chosen from vinyl, allyl, and propenyl groups. These lower alkenyl groups can be located in any position of the organopolysiloxane molecule but are preferably located at the ends of the organopolysiloxane molecule.
Organopolysiloxane (B) can have a branched chain, straight chain, cyclic or network structure but the straight chain structure is preferred. Compound (B) can have a viscosity ranging from the liquid state to the gum state. Preferably, the compound (B) has a viscosity of at least 100 centistokes at 25 ° C. In addition to the abovementioned alkenyl groups, the other organic groups linked to the silicon atoms in the compound (B) can be alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group, or a mercapto group. The organopolysiloxane (B) can be chosen from methylvinylpolysiloxanes, methylvinylsiloxane-dimethylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylpolysiloxanes, dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane copolymers terminated dimethylpolysiloxane, diméthylsiloxanediphénylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers terminated dimethylpolysiloxanes, dimethylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane endings trimethylsiloxy copolymers, dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers with trimethylsiloxy endings, methyl (3,3,3-trifluoropropy1) -polysiloxane with dimethylvinylsiloxy endings, and dimethylsiloxanemethyl (3,3,3trifluoropropyl) siloxane siloxane copolymers
In particular, the elastomeric organopolysiloxane can be obtained by reaction of dimethylpolysiloxane with dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups and of methylhydrogenopolysiloxane with trimethylsiloxy end groups, in the presence of a platinum catalyst.
Advantageously, the sum of the number of ethylenic groups per molecule of the compound (B) and the number of hydrogen atoms linked to silicon atoms per molecule of the compound (A) is at least 5.
It is advantageous for the compound (A) to be added in an amount such that the molecular ratio between the total amount of hydrogen atoms linked to silicon atoms in the compound (A) and the total amount of all the groups to be ethylenic unsaturation in compound (B) is in the range of 1.5 / 1 to 20/1.
Compound (C) is the catalyst for the crosslinking reaction, and is in particular chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic diketone acid complexes, black platinum, and platinum on support. The catalyst (C) is preferably added from 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight, better still from 1 to 100 parts by weight, as clean platinum metal for 1000 parts by weight of the total amount of the compounds (A) and B). The elastomer is advantageously a non-emulsifying elastomer.
The term “non-emulsifying” defines organopolysiloxane elastomers which do not contain a hydrophilic chain, and in particular which do not contain polyoxyalkylene units (in particular polyoxyethylene or polyoxypropylene), or of polyglyceryl unit. Thus, according to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises an organopolysiloxane elastomer devoid of polyoxyalkylene units and of polyglyceryl unit. In particular, the silicone elastomer used in the present invention is chosen from Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone Crosspolymer-3 (INCI name) . The particles of organopolysiloxane elastomers can be conveyed in the form of a gel consisting of an elastomeric organopolysiloxane included in at least one hydrocarbon oil and / or a silicone oil. In these gels, the organopolysiloxane particles are often non-spherical particles.
Non-emulsifying elastomers are described in particular in patents EP 242,219, EP 285,886, EP 765,656 and in application JP-A-61 -194009.
The silicone elastomer is generally in the form of a gel, a paste or a powder but advantageously in the form of a gel in which the silicone elastomer is dispersed in a linear silicone oil (dimethicone ) or cyclic (ex: cyclopentasiloxane), advantageously in a linear silicone oil.
As non-emulsifying elastomers, use may more particularly be made of those sold under the names "KSG-6", "KSG-15", "KSG-16", "KSG18", "KSG-41", "KSG-42", " KSG-43 "," KSG-44 ", by the company Shin Etsu," DC9040 "," DC9041 ", by the company Dow Corning," SFE 839 "by the company General Electric.
According to a particular embodiment, a silicone elastomer gel dispersed in a silicone oil chosen from a non-exhaustive list comprising cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, dimethicones, dimethylsiloxanes, methyl trimethicone, phenylmethicone, phenyldimethicone, phenyltrimethicone, and cyclomethicone, is used. preferably a linear silicone oil chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) or dimethicones with a viscosity at 25 ° C ranging from 1 to 500 is at 25 ° C, optionally modified by aliphatic groups, optionally fluorinated, or by functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and / or amine groups.
Mention may in particular be made of the following INCI name compounds:
- Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, such as "USG-105" and "USG-107A" from the company Shin Etsu; "DC9506" and "DC9701" from Dow Corning;
- Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (and) Dimethicone, such as "KSG-6" and "KSG-16" from the company Shin Etsu;
- Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (and) Cyclopentasiloxane, such as "KSG-15";
- Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer, such as "DC9040", "DC9045" and "DC5930" from the company Dow Corning;
- Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer, such as "DC9041" from the company Dow Corning;
- Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer, such as "Dow Corning EL9240® silicone elastomer blend" from the company Dow Corning (mixture of polydimethylsiloxane crosslinked with hexadiene / polydimethysiloxane (2 cSt));
- C 4 -24 Alkyl Dimethicone / DivinyIDimethicone Crosspolymer, such as NuLastic Silk MA by the company Alzo.
As examples of silicone elastomers dispersed in a linear silicone oil which can advantageously be used according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of the following references:
- Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (and) Dimethicone, such as "KSG-6" and "KSG-16" from the company Shin Etsu;
- Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer, such as "DC9041" from the company Dow Corning;
- Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer, such as "Dow Corning EL9240® silicone elastomer blend" from the company Dow Corning (mixture of polydimethylsiloxane crosslinked with Hexadiene / Polydimethysiloxane (2 cSt)); and
- DIMETHICONE (and) VINYLDIMETHYL / TRIMETHYLSILOXYSILICATE / DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER, BELSIL REG 1100 from Wacker silicone.
The particles of organopolysiloxane elastomers can also be used in powder form, mention may in particular be made of the powders sold under the names “Dow Corning 9505 Powder”, “Dow Corning 9506 Powder” by the company Dow Corning, these powders are for INCI name: dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, as well as "Dow Corning® 9701 Cosmetic Powder" (INCI: Dimethicone / Vinyï Dimethicone Crosspolymer (and) Silica).
The organopolysiloxane powder can also be coated with silsesquioxane resin, as described for example in US Pat. No. 5,538,793. Such elastomer powders are sold under the names "KSP-100", "KSP101", "KSP102", "KSP-103", "KSP-104", "KSP-105" by the company Shin Etsu, and have the name INCI: vinyl dimethicone / methicone silsesquioxane Crosspolymer.
As examples of organopolysiloxane powders coated with silsesquioxane resin which can advantageously be used according to the invention, there may be mentioned in particular the reference "KSP-100" from the company Shin Etsu.
As preferred lipophilic gelling agent of the organopolysiloxane elastomer type, mention may in particular be made of the crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomers chosen from Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer ( INCI name), Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone Crosspolymer-3 (INCI name), DIMETHICONE (and) VINYLDIMETHYL / TRIMETHYLSILOXYSILICATE / DIMETHICONE
CROSSPOLYMER and in particular the DIMETHICONE (and) DIMETHICONE / VINYL DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER, KSG16 from Shin Etsu or the DIMETHICONE (and) VINYLDIMETHYL / TRIMETHYLSILOXYSILICATE / DIMETHICER CROSSPILY WINNER.
Semi-crystalline polymers
The composition according to the invention can comprise at least one semi-crystalline polymer. Preferably, the semi-crystalline polymer has an organic structure, and a melting temperature greater than or equal to 30 ° C.
By “semi-crystalline polymer” is meant within the meaning of the invention, polymers comprising a crystallizable part and an amorphous part and having a reversible phase change temperature of the first order, in particular of melting (solid-liquid transition) . The crystallizable part is either a side chain (or pendant chain) or a sequence in the skeleton. When the crystallizable part of the semi-crystalline polymer is a block of the polymer backbone, this crystallizable block is of a chemical nature different from that of the amorphous blocks; the semi-crystalline polymer is in this case a block copolymer, for example of the diblock, triblock or multiblock type. When the crystallizable part is a chain hanging from the skeleton, the semi-crystalline polymer can be a homopolymer or a copolymer. The melting temperature of the semi-crystalline polymer is preferably less than 150 ° C. The melting point of the semi-crystalline polymer is preferably greater than or equal to 30 ° C and less than 100 ° C. More preferably, the melting temperature of the semi-crystalline polymer is greater than or equal to 30 ° C and less than 70 ° C. The semi-crystalline polymer (s) according to the invention are solids at room temperature (25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg), tooth the melting temperature is greater than or equal to 30 ° C. The melting point values correspond to the melting point measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), such as the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by the company Mettler, with a rise in temperature of 5 or 10 ° C per minute (The melting point considered is the point corresponding to the temperature of the most endothermic peak in the thermogram).
The semi-crystalline polymer or polymers according to the invention preferably have a melting temperature higher than the temperature of the keratinous support intended to receive said composition, in particular the skin, the lips or the eyelids.
According to the invention, the semi-crystalline polymers are advantageously soluble in the fatty phase, in particular at least 1% by weight, at a temperature above their melting temperature. Apart from the crystallizable chains or sequences, the sequences of the polymers are amorphous. By "crystallizable chain or sequence" is meant within the meaning of the invention a chain or sequence which if it were alone would pass from the amorphous state to the crystalline state, reversibly, depending on whether one is above or below the melting temperature. A chain within the meaning of the invention is a group of atoms, pendant or lateral with respect to the polymer backbone. A sequence is a group of atoms belonging to the skeleton, a group constituting one of the repeating units of the polymer.
Preferably, the polymer backbone of semi-crystalline polymers is soluble in the fatty phase at a temperature above their melting temperature. Preferably, the crystallizable blocks or chains of the semi-crystalline polymers represent at least 30% of the total weight of each polymer and better still at least 40%. The semi-crystalline polymers with crystallizable side chains are homo- or co-polymers. The semi-crystalline polymers of the invention with crystallizable blocks are copolymers, block or multiblock. They can be obtained by polymerization of monomer with reactive (or ethylenic) double bonds or by polycondensation. When the polymers of the invention are polymers with crystallizable side chains, the latter are advantageously in random or statistical form.
Preferably, the semi-crystalline polymers of the invention are of synthetic origin.
According to a preferred embodiment, the semi-crystalline polymer is chosen from:
- homopolymers and copolymers comprising units resulting from the polymerization of one or more monomers carrying hydrophobic side chain (s) which can be crystallized,
- polymers carrying at least one crystallizable block in the backbone,
- polycondensates of polyester, aliphatic or aromatic or aliphatic / aromatic type,
- the ethylene and propylene copolymers prepared by metallocene catalysis, and
- acrylate / silicone copolymers.
The semi-crystalline polymers which can be used in the invention can be chosen in particular from:
- block copolymers of polyolefins with controlled crystallization, the monomers of which are described in EP 0 951 897,
polycondensates and in particular of the polyester, aliphatic or aromatic or aliphatic / aromatic type,
- ethylene and propylene copolymers prepared by metallocene catalysis,
- homo- or co-polymers carrying at least one crystallizable side chain and homo- or co-polymers carrying in the backbone at least one crystallizable block, such as those described in document US 5,156,911, such as (C 10 -C 30 ) alkyl polyacrylates corresponding to the Intelimer® from the company Landec described in the brochure "Intelimere polymers", Landec 1P22 (Rev. 4-97) and for example the product Intelimer® IPA 13-1 from the company Landec, which is a polyacrylate stearyl with a molecular weight of around 145,000 and a melting point of 49 ° C,
- homo- or co-polymers carrying at least one crystallizable side chain in particular with a fluorinated group (s), as described in document WO 01/19333,
acrylate / silicone copolymers, such as copolymers of acrylic acid and stearyl acrylate with polydimethylsiloxane grafts, copolymers of stearyl methacrylate with polydimethylsiloxane grafts, copolymers of acrylic acid and stearyl methacrylate with polydimethylsiloxane grafts, copolymers of methyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, ethyl 2-hexyl acrylate and stearyl methacrylate with polydimethylsiloxane grafts. Mention may in particular be made of the copolymers marketed by the company SHIN-ETSU under the names KP-561 (name CTFA: acrylates / dimethicone), KP-541 (name CTFA: acrylates / dimethicone and Isopropyl alcohol), KP-545 (name CTFA : acrylates / dimethicone and Cyclopentasiloxane),
- and their mixtures.
Polyacrylates
According to one embodiment, the gelling agent is chosen from polyacrylates resulting from the polymerization of C 1 -C 30 alkyl acrylate (s), preferably C 1 -C 4 alkyl acrylate (s) - C 2 4, and even more preferably of C 8 -C 22 alkyl acrylate (s).
According to one embodiment, the polyacrylates are polymers of acrylic acid esterified with a fatty alcohol whose saturated carbon chain comprises from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 14 to 24 carbon atoms, or a mixture of said fatty alcohols . Preferably, the fatty alcohol comprises 18 carbon atoms or 22 carbon atoms.
Among the polyacrylates, mention may be made more particularly of stearyl polyacrylate, behenyl polyacrylate. Preferably, the gelling agent is stearyl polyacrylate or behenyl polyacrylate.
Mention may in particular be made of the polyacrylates sold under the names Interlimer® (INCI name: Poly C 10 -C 30 alkyl acrylate), in particular Interlimer® 13.1 and Interlimer® 13.6, by the company Airproducts.
Dextrin esters
The composition according to the invention can comprise at least one dextrin ester. In particular, the composition preferably comprises at least one ester of dextrin and of fatty acid, preferably of C 12 to C 24, in particular of Ci 4 to Ci 8 , or their mixtures. Preferably, the dextrin ester is an ester of dextrin and of fatty acid in Ci 2 -Ci 8 , in particular in Ci 4 -Ci 8 .
Preferably, the dextrin ester is chosen from dextrin myristate and / or dextrin palmitate, and mixtures thereof.
According to a particular embodiment, the dextrin ester is dextrin myristate, such as that in particular marketed under the name of Rheopearl MKL-2 by the company Chiba Flour Milling.
According to a preferred embodiment, the dextrin ester is dextrin palmitate. This can for example be chosen from those marketed under the names Rheopearl TL® or Rheopearl KL® or Rheopearl® KL2 by the company Chiba Flour Milling.
Inulin ester
The composition according to the invention can comprise at least one ester of inulin and of fatty acid. Mention may in particular be made of the esters of inulin and of fatty acid (s) sold under the names Rheopearl® ISK2 or Rheopearl® ISL2 (INCI name: Stearoyl Inulin) by the company Miyoshi Europe
Glycerol ester
The composition according to the invention can comprise at least one ester of glycerol and fatty acid (s), in particular a mono-, di- or triester of glycerol and fatty acid (s). Typically, said glycerol ester and fatty acid (s) can be used alone or as a mixture.
According to the invention, it may be a glycerol ester and a fatty acid or a glycerol ester and a mixture of fatty acids.
According to one embodiment, the fatty acid is chosen from the group consisting of behenic acid, isooctadecanoic acid, stearic acid, eicosanoic acid, and their mixtures.
Mention may in particular be made of the glycerol and fatty acid esters sold under the names Nomcort HK-G (INCI name: Glyceryl behenate / eicosadioate) and Nomcort SG (INCI name: Glyceryl tribehenate, isostearate, eicosadioate) Nisshin Oillio company.
Hydrogen-bonded polymers
By way of representative of the hydrogen-bonded polymers suitable for the invention, mention may very particularly be made of polyamides and in particular hydrocarbon polyamides and silicone polyamides.
The oily phase of a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one polyamide chosen from hydrocarbon polyamides, silicone polyamides, and their mixtures. By “polyamide” is meant within the meaning of the invention a compound having at least 2 amide repeat units, preferably at least 3 amide repeat units and better still 10 amide repeat units.
By “hydrocarbon polyamide” is meant a polyamide formed essentially, or even made up, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen, nitrogen atoms, and not containing any silicon atom or fluorine. It can contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups. By “functionalized chain” within the meaning of the invention is meant an alkyl chain comprising one or more functional or reactive groups chosen in particular from hydroxyl, ether, esters, oxyalkylene or polyoxyalkylene groups. Advantageously, this polyamide of the composition according to the invention has a weight-average molecular mass of less than 100,000 g / mol, in particular ranging from 1,000 to 100,000 g / mol, in particular less than 50,000 g / mol, in particular ranging from 1 000 to 50,000 g / mol, and more particularly ranging from 1,000 to 30,000 g / mol, preferably from 2,000 to
000 g / mol, and better from 2000 to 10 000 g / mol. This polyamide is not soluble in water, in particular at 25 ° C.
According to a first embodiment of the invention, the polyamide used is a polyamide of formula (I):
1 II * Il J w II * Il
OQOO gj in which X represents a group -N (R 1 ) 2 or a group -ORi in which R, is a linear or branched C 8 -C 22 alkyl radical, which may be identical or different from each other , R 2 is a C 28 -C 42 diacid dimer residue, R 3 is an ethylene diamine radical, n is between 2 and 5; and their mixtures.
In a particular embodiment, the polyamide used is an amide-terminated polyamide of formula (la):
xj— cR — Ç — NH-R — NH ^ -C — R — Ç ~ X ° ° ° ° Cïâ) in which X represents a group -N (R!) 2 in which Ri is a linear or branched alkyl radical in C 8 to C 22 , which may be identical or different from each other, R 2 is a residue of C 28 -C 42 diacid dimer, R 3 is an ethylene diamine radical, n is between 2 and 5; and their mixtures.
The fatty phase of a composition according to the invention can also comprise, additionally in this case, at least one additional polyamide of formula (Ib):
X — j — G — Fbr ~ G — NH — Rj — NH — J ^ C — R 2 —C — X oooo fIbl in which X represents a group -OR! in which Rt is a linear or branched C 8 to C 22 preferably C 16 to C 22 alkyl radical, which may be identical or different from each other, R 2 is a residue of C 28 C diacid dimer 42 , R 3 is an ethylene diamine radical, n is between 2 and 5, such as the commercial products sold by the company Arizona Chemical under the names
Uniclear 80 and Uniclear 100 or Uniclear 80 V, Uniclear 100 V and Uniclear 100 VG, whose INCI name is "ethylenediamine / stearyl dimer dilinoleate copolymer".
The silicone polyamides are preferably solid at room temperature (25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm ct Hg). The silicone polyamides can preferably be polymers comprising at least one unit of formula (III) or (IV):
“R * ~ R _,.vs SD- fi ï -------------------- MÎ -------------- ï ISH fiG iv R ’ o S
Or or
“R * ÏDiV -NH— x— -SiO- - If — x— ÏH—R ’m R ’ ïo o
in which :
• R 4 , R 5 , R 6 and R 7 , identical or different, represent a group chosen from:
- hydrocarbon groups, linear, branched or cyclic, at C 40 , saturated or unsaturated, which may contain in their chain one or more oxygen, sulfur and / or nitrogen atoms, and may be partially or totally substituted by fluorine atoms,
- C 6 to C w aryl groups, optionally substituted by one or more C 1 to C 4 alkyl groups,
- polyorganosiloxane chains containing or not containing one or more oxygen, sulfur and / or nitrogen, • X, which are identical or different, represent alkylene di-yl, linear or branched Ci -C 30, which may contain in its chain one or more oxygen and / or nitrogen atoms, • Y is a divalent linear or branched alkylene, arylene, cycloalkylene, alkylarylene or arylalkylene, saturated or unsaturated, at C 50 group , which may contain one or more several oxygen, sulfur and / or nitrogen atoms, and / or bear as one of the following atoms or groups of atoms: fluorine, hydroxy, C 3 to C 8 cycloalkyl, C to C 40 alkyl aryl, C 5 -C 10, phenyl optionally substituted by 1 to 3 alkyl groups CL -C 3 hydroxyalkyl CL -C 3 alkyl and amino CL -C 6, or
Y represents a group corresponding to the formula in which
- T represents a trivalent or tetravalent, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C 3 to C 24 hydrocarbon group optionally substituted by a polyorganosiloxane chain, and which may contain one or more atoms chosen from O, N and S, or T represents a trivalent atom chosen from N, Pi and Al, and
- R 8 represents a linear or branched C 1 to C 50 alkyl group, or a polyorganosiloxane chain, which may contain one or more ester, amide, urethane, thiocarbamate, urea, thiourea and / or sulfonamide groups which may or may not be linked to another chain of the polymer, · n is an integer ranging from 2 to 500, preferably from 2 to 200 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 1000, preferably from 1 to 700 and better still from 6 to 200 .
According to a particular embodiment, the silicone polyamide comprises at least one unit of formula (III) where m ranges from 50 to 200, in particular from 75 to 150, and preferably of the order of 100.
More preferably R 4, R 5, R 6 and R 7 independently represent alkyl CL -C 40 linear or branched, preferably a CH 3, C 2 H 5, nC 3 H 7 or isopropyl group in the formula (III).
As an example of a silicone polymer which can be used, mention may be made of one of the 25 silicone polyamides obtained in accordance with Examples 1 to 3 of the document.
US 5,981,680. Mention may be made of the compounds marketed by the company Dow Corning under the name DC 2-8179 (DP 100) and DC 2-8178 (DP 15), the INCI name of which is "Nylon611 / dimethicone copolymers >> c ' that is to say copolymers
Nylon-611 / dimethicone.
The silicone polymers and / or copolymers advantageously have a transition temperature from the solid state to the liquid state ranging from 45 ° C. to 190 ° C. Preferably, they have a transition temperature from the solid state to the liquid state ranging from 70 ° C to 130 ° C and better still from 80 ° C to 05 ° C.
Hydrocarbon block copolymer
The hydrocarbon block copolymers, also called block copolymers, are chosen from those capable of thickening or gelling the fatty phase of the composition.
By "amorphous polymer" is meant a polymer which has no crystalline form. The polymeric gelling agent is preferably also film-forming, that is to say that it is capable of forming a film when it is applied to the skin and / or the lips.
The hydrocarbon block copolymer may in particular be a diblock, triblock, multiblock, radial, star copolymer, or their mixtures. Such hydrocarbon block copolymers are described in application US-A-2002/005562 and in patent US-A-5,221,534. The copolymer can have at least one block whose glass transition temperature is preferably less than 20 ° C, preferably less than or equal to 0 ° C, preferably less than or equal to -20 ° C, more preferably less than or equal to -40 ° C. The glass transition temperature of said block can be between -150 ° C and 20 ° C, in particular between -100 ° C and 0 ° C. The hydrocarbon block copolymer present in the composition according to the invention is an amorphous copolymer formed by polymerization of an olefin. The olefin may in particular be an elastomeric ethylenically unsaturated monomer. As an example of an olefin, mention may be made of ethylenic carbide monomers, having in particular one or two ethylenic unsaturations, having from 2 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethylene, propylene, butadiene, isoprene, or pentadiene .
Advantageously, the hydrocarbon block copolymer is an amorphous block copolymer of styrene and olefin.
Particularly preferred are block copolymers comprising at least one styrene block and at least one block comprising units chosen from butadiene, ethylene, propylene, butylene, isoprene or one of their mixtures.
According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrocarbon block copolymer is hydrogenated to reduce the residual ethylenic unsaturations after the polymerization of the monomers. In particular, the hydrocarbon block copolymer is a copolymer, optionally hydrogenated, with styrene blocks and with ethylene / C3-C4 alkylene blocks.
According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one diblock copolymer, preferably hydrogenated, preferably chosen from styrene-ethylene / propylene copolymers, styrene-ethylene / butadiene copolymers, styrene-ethylene copolymers / butylene. Diblock polymers are sold in particular under the name Kraton® G1701E by the company Kraton Polymers. Advantageously, a diblock copolymer such as those described above is used as polymeric gelling agent, in particular a styreneethylene / propylene diblock copolymer, or a mixture of diblocks, as described above.
Thus, according to an alternative embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises, as lipophilic gelling agent, at least one hydrocarbon block copolymer, preferably a copolymer, optionally hydrogenated, with styrene blocks and with ethylene / C3-C4 alkylene blocks, also more preferably chosen from a diblock copolymer, preferably hydrogenated, such as a styrene-ethylene / propylene copolymer, a styrene-ethylene / butadiene copolymer
Mention may also be made of ESTOGEL (INCI: Polyurethane of derivative of castor oil) sold by the company Polymer Expert.
According to one embodiment, in the compositions of the invention, the content of lipophilic agent (s) having a suspensive power is between 0.5% and 99.50%, preferably between 1.5% and 70%, in particular between 2.5% and 60%, and preferably between 3% and 50%, or even between 1% and 8%, and better still between 2.5% and 6%, by weight relative to the weight total of the fatty phase, or even relative to the total weight of the composition.
Oils
The fatty phase of a composition according to the invention can also comprise at least one oil.
The fatty phase can therefore comprise a single oil or a mixture of several oils. The fatty phase according to the invention can therefore comprise at least one, at least two, at least three, at least four, asu at least five, or even more, of oil (s) as described above. after.
“Oil” means a fatty substance which is liquid at room temperature (25 ° C).
As oils which can be used in the composition of the invention, there may be mentioned for example:
- hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, in particular as described below;
- hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene and squalane;
- synthetic esters and ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as oils of formulas FLCOOFÇ and R 1 OR 2 in which FL represents the remainder of a C 8 to C 29 fatty acid, and R 2 represents a hydrocarbon chain , branched or not, in C 3 to C 30 , such as, for example, Purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isopropyl myristate, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octylhydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentylglycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetrabéhenate (DUB PTB) or pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate (Prisorine 3631), or Plandool G (INCI: BisBehenyl / lsostearyl / Phytosteryl / Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleyl);
- linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, petrolatum, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parléam oil;
- silicone oils, such as, for example, volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane and cyclopentasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes (or dimethicones) comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenylated silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenyl-siloxanes, diphenyldimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, and polymethylphenyls;
- fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol), or octyldodecanol;
- partially hydrocarbon and / or silicone fluorinated oils such as those described in document JP-A-2-295912;
- and their mixtures.
According to a preferred embodiment, the oil is chosen from esters and synthetic ethers, preferably esters of formula R1COOR2, in which Ri represents the residue of a fatty acid Cg to C 2 g, and R 2 represents a C 3 to C 30 hydrocarbon chain, branched or not.
According to one embodiment, the oil is chosen from fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms.
According to one embodiment, the oil is chosen from hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular branched C 8 -C 16 alkanes (also called isoparaffins or isoalkanes), such as isododecane (also called 2-methylundecane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and, for example, oils sold under the trade names of Isopars® or Permethyls®.
According to another preferred embodiment, the fatty phase of the compositions of the invention comprises an oil chosen from silicone oils. Preferably, the fatty phase does not include other oils other than silicone oils. Preferably, the oils present in the fatty phase are silicone oils.
According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least 1% by weight of oil (s) relative to the total weight of said composition.
According to another embodiment, a composition according to the invention, in particular the fatty phase of the compositions of the invention, does not comprise polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS), and preferably does not comprise silicone oil.
According to another embodiment, a composition according to the invention does not include vegetable oil.
According to yet another embodiment, the fatty phase of the compositions according to the invention comprises at least one hydrocarbon-based oil of vegetable origin. As vegetable oils, mention may in particular be made of the liquid triglycerides of C 4 -C 10 fatty acids such as the triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or also, for example, sunflower, corn, soybean, squash, and seed oils. grapes, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, macaw, castor, avocado, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids (INCI name:
Caprylic / Capric Triglycéride) such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those available under the trade names "Miglyol 810", "Miglyol 812" and "Miglyol 818" by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, olive oil shea butter, and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the vegetable oil is chosen from those rich in polyunsaturated fatty acids. The term “unsaturated fatty acid” within the meaning of the present invention means a fatty acid comprising at least one double bond. They are more particularly fatty acids with long chains, that is to say which can have more than 14 carbon atoms. The unsaturated fatty acids can be in acid form, or in the form of a salt, such as for example their calcium salt, or also in the form of derivatives, in particular of fatty acid ester (s).
Preferably, the continuous fatty phase comprises at least one non-volatile oil.
By "non-volatile" is meant an oil whose vapor pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure is not zero and less than 0.02 mm Hg (2.66 Pa) and better still less than 10 3 mm Hg ( 0.13 Pa).
In particular, mention may be made of non-volatile oils chosen from silicone oils, fluorinated oils or mixtures thereof, and more particularly from non-phenylated non-volatile silicone oils; phenylated non-volatile silicone oils, with or without at least one dimethicone fragment; fluorinated oils; or mixtures thereof, or alternatively non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oils, in particular chosen from non-volatile oils comprising at most one free hydroxyl group or not comprising one, or from non-volatile oils comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups, or non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oils.
Representative examples of non-volatile non-phenylated silicone oils which may be mentioned include polydimethylsiloxanes; alkyldimethicones; vinylmethylmethicones; and also silicones modified with aliphatic groups and / or with functional groups such as hydroxyl groups, thiols and / or amines.
Among the non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oils, there may be mentioned the ester oils as described above.
Among the non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oils, mention may be made of linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, such as:
- paraffin oil or its derivatives,
- squalane,
- isoeicosan,
- naphthalene oil,
- polybutylenes such as INDOPOL H-100 (of molar mass or MW = 965 g / mol), INDOPOL H-300 (MW = 1340 g / mol), INDOPOL H-1500 (MW = 2160g / mol) marketed or manufactured by AMOCO,
- polyisobutenes
- hydrogenated polyisobutylenes such as Parléam® marketed by the company NIPPON OIL FATS, PANALANE H-300 E marketed or manufactured by the company AMOCO (MW = 1340 g / mol), VISEAL 20000 marketed or manufactured by the company SYNTEAL ( MW = 6000 g / mol), the REWOPAL PIB 1000 marketed or manufactured by the company WITCO (MW = 1000 g / mol), or the PARLEAM LITE marketed by NOF Corporation,
- decene / butene copolymers, polybutene / polyisobutene copolymers, in particular Indopol L-14,
- hydrogenated polydecenes and polydecenes such as: PURESYN 10 (MW = 723 g / mol), PURESYN 150 (MW = 9200 g / mol) marketed or manufactured by MOBIL CHEMICALS, or PURESYN 6 marketed by EXXONMOBIL CHEMICAL),
- and their mixtures.
According to a preferred embodiment, the oil is chosen from the group consisting of isononyl isononanoate, dimethicone, polybutene, hydrogenated or not, diisostearyl malate, and their mixtures.
The selection of oil (s) satisfying the gloss criterion sought for a composition according to the invention falls within the general knowledge of a person skilled in the art.
According to one embodiment, the oil content (s) is between 0.5% and 99% by weight relative to the total weight of the fatty phase of said composition. Preferably, the oil content (s) is greater than 70%, in particular greater than 80%, or even greater than 90%, by weight relative to the weight of the fatty phase.
Regardless of the use of coloring agent (s) (as mentioned below), the fatty phase of the composition according to the invention remains perfectly transparent, this transparency being unreachable with conventional lip glosses / lipsticks in the form of reverse emulsions. It is also an advantage compared to an emulsion with an anionic polymer (carbomer) / cationic polymer (amodimethicone) coacervate obtained via a microfluidic process, as described in particular in application WO 2012/120043, where amodimethicone tends to "disturb »The oily phase.
Additional compounds
According to the invention, the aqueous phase and / or the fatty phase may / may also comprise at least one additional compound different from the hydrophilic gelling agents, lipophilic agents having a suspensive power and the oils, or even anionic and cationic polymers, mentioned above. .
A composition according to the invention, in particular the aqueous phase and / or the fatty phase of the said composition, can therefore also be (as an additional compound) powders, flakes, coloring agents, in particular chosen from coloring agents, water-soluble or not, liposoluble or not, organic or inorganic, pigments, materials with optical effect, liquid crystals, and mixtures thereof, particulate agents insoluble in the fatty phase, silicone elastomers emulsifiers and / or non-emulsifiers , in particular as described in patent application EP 2 353 577, preservatives, humectants, stabilizers, chelators, emollients, modifying agents chosen from pH, osmotic force agents and / or modifiers of index of refraction etc ... or any usual cosmetic additive, and mixtures thereof.
A composition according to the invention, in particular the aqueous phase and / or the fatty phase of the said composition, may (can) still further comprise at least one active, in particular biological or cosmetic, preferably chosen from hydrating agents, healing agents, depigmenting agents, UV filters, desquamating agents, antioxidant agents, active ingredients stimulating the synthesis of dermal and / or epidermal macromoleculars, dermodecontracting agents, antiperspirant agents, soothing agents, anti-perspirants age, perfuming agents and their mixtures. Such assets are described in particular in application FR 1 558 849.
In particular, the fatty phase may also comprise at least one hydrophobic film-forming polymer, in particular as described in application FR 3 025 100 or WO 2016/030842, and for example the polymer sold under the names FA 4002 ID (TIB 4 -202) or FA 4001 CM (TIB 4-230) by the company Dow Corning. The presence of such a polymer makes it possible to improve the resistance over time, in particular the resistance over time of the gloss, and if necessary while retaining a viscosity of the fatty phase compatible with the microfluidic device. In addition, it makes it possible to reduce the migration phenomena of the composition applied to a keratin material, in particular the skin or the eyelids.
According to one embodiment, the content by weight of film-forming polymer (s) hydrophobic (s) is between 0.1% and 40%, in particular between 0.2% and 20%, preferably between 0, 5% and 15%, based on the weight of the fatty phase.
Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose any optional compound (s) and / or active ingredient (s) mentioned above and / or their respective amounts so that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention do not are not or substantially not altered by the proposed addition. In particular, the nature and / or the amount of the additional and / or active compound (s) depends on the aqueous or fatty nature of the phase considered of the composition according to the invention. These adjustments fall within the competence of a person skilled in the art.
Coloring agent
According to one embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one coloring agent.
According to one embodiment, the aqueous phase and / or the fatty phase comprises / comprise at least one coloring agent.
When the fatty phase of a composition according to the invention comprises at least one coloring agent, said composition exhibits an advantageous "transparency / lip coloring" compromise. Indeed, in the presence of such a coloring agent, the dispersion is colored but has a transparency such that the spheres (S1) remain perfectly visible. On application, the color of the lips is real, which may seem surprising, given the transparency of the composition before application.
In the context of the invention, and unless otherwise stated, the term "coloring agent" or "coloring agent" means a material intended to give the composition a coloring, and in particular a lasting coloring. By "coloring" is meant, for example, white, black, and all other colors of the visible spectrum, such as blue, red, yellow ... possibly in iridescent, shiny or any other known form.
In other words, the term "coloring agent" within the meaning of the present invention means a compound capable of producing a colored optical effect when it is formulated in sufficient quantity in an appropriate cosmetic medium.
Within the meaning of the present invention, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one coloring agent chosen from water-soluble coloring agents or not, liposoluble or not, organic or inorganic, materials with optical effect, liquid crystals, and mixtures thereof.
By "water-soluble coloring agent" is meant within the meaning of the invention, any compound generally organic, natural or synthetic, soluble in an aqueous phase or solvents miscible with water and capable of coloring. In particular, the term “water-soluble” is intended to characterize the ability of a compound to dissolve in water, measured at 25 ° C., at the rate of a concentration at least equal to 0.1 g / l (obtaining of a macroscopically isotropic and transparent solution, colored or not). This solubility is in particular greater than or equal to 1 g / l.
A coloring agent according to the invention is preferably chosen from pigments, dyes, liquid crystals and their mixtures.
Preferably, the coloring agent is chosen from dyes.
According to the invention, the dyes are typically essentially soluble in their environment of use, as defined in particular in standard DIN 55944 (December 2011).
According to one embodiment, the coloring agent according to the invention is chosen from materials with an optical effect.
The particles with a metallic reflection which can be used in the invention are in particular chosen from:
- particles of at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative,
the particles comprising an organic or mineral substrate, monomaterial or multimaterial, covered at least partially by at least one layer with metallic reflection comprising at least one metal and / or at least one metallic derivative, and
- mixtures of said particles.
Among the metals which may be present in said particles, there may be mentioned for example Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Ni, Sn, Mg, Cr, Mo, Ti, Zr, Pt, Va, Rb, W, Zn, Ge, Te , Se and mixtures or alloys thereof. Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Zn, Ni, Mo, Cr, and mixtures or alloys thereof (eg, bronzes and brasses) are preferred metals.
By "metallic derivatives" is meant compounds derived from metals, in particular, oxides, fluorides, chlorides and sulfides
According to one embodiment, the coloring agent according to the invention is chosen from liquid crystals. According to the invention, the term "liquid crystals" or "coloring agent of the liquid crystal type" means liquid crystals coloring the composition, that is to say providing a coloration to said composition as specified above. Liquid crystals are typically characterized by an intermediate state between the crystalline phase, where a three-dimensional position order reigns, and the liquid phase where no order exists.
Alternatively, the color effect of the fatty phase can be obtained by the use of naturally colored oil (s), such as annatto oil, Lipocarotte, or an extract of gremil from dyers.
According to one embodiment, the aqueous phase of a composition of the invention comprises between 0.0001% and 15% by weight of coloring agent (s), preferably of coloring agent (s), relative to the weight of the aqueous phase.
According to one embodiment, the fatty phase of a composition of the invention comprises between 0.0001% and 15% by weight of coloring agent (s), preferably dye (s), relative to the weight of the fatty phase.
Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises less than 2%, in particular less than 1%, preferably less than 0.5%, and in particular less than 0.1% by weight of pigments relative to the total weight of said composition.
Preferably, a composition according to the invention, in particular the fatty phase, is devoid of pigments.
According to one embodiment, when the aqueous phase and / or the fatty phase comprises at least one coloring agent, in particular at least one dye, said aqueous phase and / or said fatty phase, preferably at least the fatty phase further comprises UV sun filters, in order to prevent / avoid changes in unwanted colors.
According to one embodiment, the aqueous phase can also comprise glycerin.
Preferably, a composition of the invention comprises at least 2%, preferably at least 5%, in particular at least 10%, in particular at least 20%, or even at least 30%, or even at least 40%, or at least minus 50% by weight of glycerin relative to the weight of the aqueous phase. The limits of the formulation are therefore pushed back with this type of raw material without altering the finish on the keratin material.
Other embodiments
According to a particular embodiment, the aqueous phase comprises an intermediate phase, the intermediate phase being placed in contact with the fatty phase, and at least one internal phase disposed in the intermediate phase. Such an embodiment corresponds to spheres provided with a “drop-in-drop” type architecture. In other words, the internal phase is disposed completely away from the fatty phase, the intermediate phase being interposed between the or each internal phase and the fatty phase.
The intermediate phase is therefore characterized by the aqueous phase as described above.
The internal phase can be hydrophilic or lipophilic in nature. The internal phase can be solid or liquid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.
The internal phase can also comprise at least one gelling agent and / or any additional compound / active, in particular as described above.
According to another particular embodiment:
the aqueous phase may be in the form of a direct emulsion (oil-in-water), said emulsion comprising a continuous aqueous phase and a fatty phase dispersed in the form of drops (G2), the size of the drops (G2) being necessarily smaller than the size of the spheres (S1). In particular, the drop size (G2) is less than 500 µm, preferably less than 400 µm, in particular less than 300 µm, better still less than 200 µm, in particular less than 100 µm, even less than 20 µm, and better less than 10 pm. Preferably, the size of the drops (G2) is between 0.1 pm and 200 pm, preferably between 0.25 pm and 100 pm, in particular between 0.5 pm and 50 pm, preferably between 1 pm and 20 pm , and better between 1 pm and 10 pm, or even between 3 pm and 5 pm;
and or
the fatty phase can be in the form of a reverse emulsion (water-in-oil), said emulsion comprising a continuous fatty phase and an aqueous phase dispersed in the form of drops (G3), the size of the drops (G3) preferably being microscopic. In particular, the drop size (G3) is less than 500 μm, preferably less than 400 μm, in particular less than 300 μm, better still less than 200 μm, in particular less than 100 μm, or even less than 20 μm, and better less than 10 pm. Preferably, the size of the drops (G3) is between 0.1 pm and 200 pm, preferably between 0.25 pm and 100 pm, in particular between 0.5 pm and 50 pm, preferably between 1 pm and 20 pm , and better between 1 pm and 10 pm, or even between 3 pm and 5 pm.
Optionally, the drops (G2) and / or (G3) comprise a shell formed from at least one anionic polymer, in particular a carbomer, and from at least one cationic polymer, in particular an amodimethicone, said anionic and cationic polymers being as defined above.
Advantageously, the drops (G2) and / or (G3) are not macroscopic, and are therefore microscopic, that is to say not visible to the naked eye.
In other words, the drops (G2) and / or (G3) are different and independent of the spheres (S1).
These drops (G2) and / or (G3) of reduced size make it possible to have an effect on the texture. Indeed, a composition according to the invention comprising such drops (G2) and / or (G3) finely dispersed exhibits even improved smoothness qualities.
The presence of the drops (G2) and / or (G3) strengthens the characteristics of a composition according to the invention in terms of unique texture, lightness and evolving sensory. More particularly, a composition according to the invention comprising drops (G2) and / or (G3) spread easily on a keratinous material, in particular the lips. This texture is particularly advantageous and surprising for the skilled person.
A composition according to the invention is principally dedicated to making up and / or caring for keratin materials, in particular the lips and / or the eyelids. A person skilled in the art will know how to make adjustments in terms of the nature and / or quantity of the raw materials in order to focus the composition according to the invention on making up or caring for keratin materials, in particular with regard to the choice of oils which can be used. implemented in the fatty phase.
Process
The compositions according to the invention can be prepared by various methods.
In terms of the manufacturing process, a composition according to the invention is advantageously produced in a single step in that there is no prior step of forming the spheres (S1) before mixing with the fatty suspensive phase, this which is advantageous on an industrial level.
Thus, the compositions according to the invention have the advantage of being able to be prepared according to a simple “non-microfluidic” process, namely by simple emulsification. As in a conventional emulsion, an aqueous solution and a fatty (or oily) solution are prepared separately.
They can also be prepared, as indicated above, by a “microfluidic” process, in particular as described in international applications WO 2012/120043 or WO 2015/055748, and in particular in “jet of liquid” mode (in English: jetting) (by formation of a liquid jet at the outlet of the microfluidic device, then fragmentation of the jet in the ambient air under the effect of gravity) or by drip (in English: dripping) as described in the WO 2012/120043.
To prepare a composition according to the invention, an internal fluid (IF) is used to constitute the dispersed aqueous phase, and an external fluid (OF) to constitute the continuous fatty phase.
In view of the above, the fluid (IF) comprises at least one hydrophilic gelling agent and water, and in addition, optionally, at least one additional component as mentioned above.
The fluid (OF) comprises at least one lipophilic agent having a suspensive power, preferably at least one oil, and in addition, optionally, at least one additional component as mentioned above.
According to one embodiment, the method for preparing a composition according to the invention comprises a step of bringing a fluid (IF) and a fluid (OF) into contact as defined above.
Depending on the nature and / or the content of hydrophilic gelling agent (s) and lipophilic agent (s) having suspensive power, the step of bringing the fluids (IF) and (OF) into contact must be make with an aqueous phase and / or a fatty phase previously heated to a temperature ensuring them a sufficient liquid character for:
- a homogeneous mixture and good formation of the spheres (S1) if the process is non-microfluidic, or
- good formation of the spheres (S1) in the fatty phase if the process is microfluidic (with, if necessary, a post-manufacturing cooling device for the spheres (S1) to solidify the spheres (S1) more quickly and thus avoid their deterioration).
According to yet another embodiment, when the fluid (IF) comprises at least one heat-sensitive gelling agent and / or the fluid (OF) comprises at least one lipophilic agent having a heat-sensitive suspending power, as described above, the preparation process of an emulsion according to the invention may require the use of at least the fluid (IF) and / or (OF) at a temperature between 40 ° C and 150 ° C.
Thus, according to this embodiment, the fluid (IF) and / or (OF) can (ven) t be heated (s) to a temperature of 40 ° C to 150 ° C.
In the case where the process for preparing an emulsion according to the invention is a microfluidic process, the microfluidic device as such is advantageously heated to a temperature of from 40 ° C. to 150 ° C.
Uses
The compositions according to the invention can in particular be used in the cosmetic field.
They can comprise, in addition to the abovementioned ingredients, at least one physiologically acceptable medium.
The term “physiologically acceptable medium” is intended to denote a medium which is particularly suitable for the application of a composition of the invention to keratin materials, in particular the skin, the lips, the nails, the eyelashes or the eyebrows, and preferably the skin. .
The physiologically acceptable medium is generally adapted to the nature of the support on which the composition is to be applied, as well as to the appearance under which the composition is to be packaged.
According to one embodiment, the physiologically acceptable medium is the continuous aqueous phase as described above.
According to one embodiment, the cosmetic compositions are used for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin.
The cosmetic compositions according to the invention can be care, sun protection, cleansing (make-up removing), hygiene or make-up products for the skin.
These compositions are therefore intended to be applied in particular to the skin.
Thus, the present invention also relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a cosmetic composition mentioned above, as a make-up, hygiene, cleaning and / or care product for keratin materials, especially the skin.
According to one embodiment, the compositions of the invention are in the form of a foundation, a makeup remover, a facial and / or body and / or hair treatment, an anti-treatment -age, a sunscreen, an oily skin treatment, a whitening treatment, a hydrating treatment, a BB cream, tinted cream or foundation, a face and / or body cleanser , shower gel or shampoo.
A care composition according to the invention may in particular be a sunscreen composition, a care cream, a serum or a deodorant.
The compositions according to the invention can be in various forms, in particular in the form of a cream, balm, lotion, serum, gel, gelcreme or even mist.
In particular, the compositions according to the invention are intended to be applied to the lips or the eyelids.
Preferably, the compositions according to the invention are in the form of a gloss (or lip gloss), lipstick, concrete, eyeliners or eye gloss.
The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method of cosmetic treatment of a keratin material, in particular the lips and / or the eyelids, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratin material at least one composition as defined above. -above.
In particular, the present invention relates to a non-therapeutic method of cosmetic treatment of the skin, in particular of the lips and / or the eyelids, comprising a step of applying to the skin at least one layer of a cosmetic composition as defined. above.
Throughout the description, the expression "comprising a" should be understood as being synonymous with "comprising at least one", unless otherwise specified.
The expressions "ranging between ... and ... >>," ranging from ... to ... >> and "ranging from ... to ... >> must be understood bounds included, except if the opposite is specified.
The amounts of the ingredients appearing in the examples are expressed as a percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, unless otherwise indicated.
The examples which follow illustrate the present invention without limiting its scope.
EXAMPLES
Example 1: Preparation of an eye gloss by a non-microfluidic process
The table below indicates the ingredients of the final composition (eye gloss) as well as the nature of the different phases implemented.
Final Composition kl Supplied Eur name INCI Name % w / w Phases % w / w final Phase AQUEOUS PHASE = Spheres (S1)) under total 100.00 15,000 Osmotic water / Aqua qs qs A1 Microcare PE Thor Phenoxyethanol, aqua 0.80 0.120 A1 Microcare Emollient PTG Thor Pentylene Glycol, aqua 2.00 0.300 A1 Carbopol UltrezIO Lubrizol CARBOMER 0.30 0.045 A2 Agar VAHINE Agar Agar 0.30 0.045 A1 Glycerin codex (99%) INTERCHEMISTRY Glycerin 53.33 8,000 A3 Crystalhyal 1.0 Sodium hyaluronate 0.07 0.010 A3 EDETA BD BASF DISODIUM EDTA 0.04 0.006 A1 Sodium Hydroxide Pellets PRS Codex Panréac SODIUM HYDROXIDE 0.05 0.008 A3 OIL PHASE under total 100.00 85,000 Dub Inin Grade A StéarinerieDubois Isononyle Isononanoate qs qs B1 Polybut 10 INTERCHEMISTRY Polybutene 37.65 32,000 B2 ASL-1 RED R-516P Daito Kasei Cl 77491 (and) Sodium Dilauramidoglutamide Lysine (and) Magnesium Chloride 0.34 0.288 B2 Covalumine Triple BI ack AS Sensient Cl 77499 (and) Alumina (and) T riethoxycaprylylsilane 1.01 0.856 B2 Aerosil R812 Evonik Silica silyate 5.88 5,000 B2 FA4002ID Dow Corning Isododecane (and) Acrylates / Polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate Copolymer 11.76 10,000 VS CAS-3131 PILOT Nusil AMODIMETHICONE 0.118 0.100 B1 TOTAL 100,000 Manufacturing 10% sodium hydroxide solution Sodium Hydroxide 0.5000 0.0750
Preparation of the aqueous phase (IF)
a) The A1 are mixed together with stirring at 85 ° C. until a homogeneous mixture is obtained, b) A2 is added to the mixture a) without stirring and the mixture is left to stand for 15 minutes until B2 is hydrated; then stirred until a homogeneous mixture is obtained,
c) A3 is added to the mixture b) with stirring until a homogeneous mixture is obtained, so as to obtain the aqueous IF.
Preparation of the oily phase (OF)
a) the B1s are mixed together with stirring until a homogeneous mixture is obtained, and
b) adding the B2s until a homogeneous mixture is obtained, so as to obtain the oily OF.
îo Preparation of the composition of the invention
a) The oily OF at 85 ° C. and the aqueous IF at 85 ° C. are available,
b) adding the aqueous IF at 85 ° C. in the oily OF at 85 ° C. with stirring, and
c) when the mixture b) is at 40 ° C., C is added with stirring.
The eye gloss according to Example 1 has both a high gloss and particularly satisfactory hydration, freshness and comfort on application. This satisfactory degree of gloss is accompanied by good resistance over time and a feeling in terms of stickiness and slowing down at acceptable application.
Examples 2 to 5: Preparation of cosmetic compositions according to the invention
The composition according to Example 2 is a transparent lip gloss formula obtained by a microfluidic process in dripping mode.
The composition according to Example 3 is a lip gloss formula colored in the fatty phase and obtained by a microfluidic process in dripping mode.
The composition according to Example 4 is a lip gloss formula colored in aqueous phase and obtained by a microfluidic process in dripping mode.
The composition according to Example 5 is a lip gloss formula obtained by a microfluidic process in jetting mode.
The phases used to prepare these formulations are as follows:
-Aqueous phase (IF)
Last name Provider NomINCI Ex 2% w / w Ex 3% w / w Ex 4% w / w Ex 5 and6% w / w Osmotic water 1 Aqua qs qs qs qs B1 Microcare PE THOR Phenoxyethanol 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 B1 Microcare PTG THOR Pentylenglycol 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 B1 Carbopol ULTREZ10 Lubrizol Carbomer 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 B2 Glycerin codex (99%) INTERCHEMISTRY Glycerin 8.00 7.00 15.00 17.00 B3 Crystalhyal 1.0 - Sodium hyaluronate 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 B3 Agaragar VAHINE AgarAgar 0.50 0.48 0.90 0.55 B3 Sodium Hydroxide 10% solution PANREAC Sodium Hydroxide 0.033 0.033 0.033 0.33 B3 Unicert Red K7057 J FEEL CI17200 0.00 0.00 0.03 0.00 B4 Total 100.00 100.00 100.00 100.00
- Fat phase (OF)
Last name Provider INCI Name Ex 2% w / w Ex 3% w / w Ex 4% w / w Ex5% w / w Ex 6% w / w Parleam ROSSOW Hydrogenated Polybutene 28.88 28.88 qs 26.50 0.00 Al Cyclomethicone 5- NF Dow Corning Corporation Cyclopentasiloxane 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 qs Al CareSilTMCXG-1104 NUSIL Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 14.00 Al Salacos222 SACICFPA Diisostearyl malate 31.40 26.90 0.00 qs 0.00 Al Polybutene INTERCHEMISTRY Polybutene qs qs 48.45 35 0.00 Al Aerosil R974 EVONIK Silica DimethylSilylate 4.00 4.00 3.00 3.00 0.00 A2 VM-2270 Dow Corning Silica silylate 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.90 A2 CLR Lipocarotte CLR Glycine Soja (soybean) oil, daucus carota extract beta carotene tocopherol 0.00 4.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 Al Covabsorb FEEL Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate and butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane etethylhexylsalicilate 0.00 0.50 0.00 0.00 0.00 Al Vitamin E BASF Tocopherylacetate 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.50 0.00 A3 Total 100.00 100.00 100.00 100.00 100.00
Preparation of the aqueous phase (IF)
a) The B1s are mixed together with stirring until a homogeneous mixture is obtained,
b) adding B2 to the mixture a) without stirring and leaving to stand for 15 minutes until hydration of B2; then stirred until a homogeneous mixture is obtained,
c) in parallel, a mixture is prepared with the B3 at 90 ° C. until a homogeneous mixture is obtained in liquid form (melt),
d) mixture c) is added to mixture b), with stirring at 90 ° C., until a homogeneous mixture is obtained so as to obtain the aqueous IF, and
e) when present, the B4s are added to the mixture d).
Preparation of the oily phase (OF)
a) The A1 are mixed together with stirring until a homogeneous mixture is obtained,
b) A2 is added to the mixture a) with stirring and the mixture is stirred until a homogeneous mixture is obtained, and
c) when present, the A3s are added with stirring until a homogeneous mixture is obtained so as to obtain the oily OF.
Preparation of the compositions
The compositions according to examples 2 to 5 are obtained according to a microfluidic process, namely a double-envelope microfluidic nozzle as described in WO2012 / 120043, the internal diameter of the outlet of the nozzle is 0.8 mm.
At the microfluidic device level, the parameters are as follows:
Ex 2 Ex 3 Ex 4 Ex 5 Ex 6 OF flow (in mL / h / nozzle) 100 100 80 300 100 IF flow (in mL / h / nozzle) 5 5 4 35 3 T ° COF YOUR YOUR YOUR YOUR YOUR T ° C IF 85 90 85 90 80 % IF in the final composition 4.76 4.76 4.76 9.1 2.91 % OF in the final composition 95.24 95.24 95.24 90.9 97.09 Remarks Dripping Dripping Dripping Jetting Dripping
In addition to a new visual linked to the presence of macroscopic aqueous bubbles in the oily continuous phase and to the transparency / translucency of the compositions, these lip gloss compositions have both high gloss and hydration, freshness and particularly satisfactory application comfort. This satisfactory degree of gloss is accompanied by good resistance over time without a feeling of stickiness or slowing down on application or slowing down on application.
Finally, the composition according to Example 6 has an oily continuous phase with satisfactory transparency.
Example 7: Preparation of a perfume concrete by a microfluidic process in dripping mode
The phases used to prepare this formulation are as follows: - Aqueous phase (IF)
Last name Provider INCI Name % w / w Osmotic water / Aqua qs B1 Carbopol ULTREZ 10 Lubrizol Carbomer 0.1 B2 Microcare PE THOR Phenoxyethanol 0.8 B1 Microcare Emollient PTG THOR Pentylenglycol 2 B1 Orange tree Flower water 9.94 B3 Soda 10% 0.12 B3 Agar Agar Vahine Agar Agar 0.4 B3 0.5% dye solution 7.93 B3 Total 100.00
- Fat phase (OF)
Last name Provider INCI Name % w / w Dimethicone KF 96A 6 cts Shin Etsu Dimethicone 9.0 A1 CAS 3131 NUSIL Amodimethicone 0.5 A1 Dub Inin StéarinerieDubois IsononyleIsononanoate qs A1 Floraesters 30 Floratech Jojoba esters 34.6 A2 Beeswax - - 23.5 A2 Total 100.00
Preparation of the aqueous phase (IF)
a) The B1s are mixed together with stirring until a homogeneous mixture is obtained,
b) adding B2 to the mixture a) without stirring and leaving to stand for 15 minutes until hydration of B2; then stirred until a homogeneous mixture is obtained,
c) in parallel, a mixture is prepared with the B3 at 90 ° C. until a homogeneous mixture in liquid form (molten) is obtained, and
d) mixture c) is added to mixture b), with stirring at 90 ° C., until a homogeneous mixture is obtained so as to obtain the aqueous IF.
Preparation of the oily phase (OF)
a) The A1 are mixed together with stirring until a homogeneous mixture is obtained,
b) on the one hand, the mixture a) is heated to 80 ° C and, on the other hand, the A2 is heated to 80 ° C, and
c) adding the A2 in liquid form (melt) to the mixture a), until a homogeneous mixture is obtained so as to obtain the oily OF.
Preparation of the composition of the invention
The composition according to Example 7 is obtained according to a microfluidic process, namely a double-envelope microfluidic nozzle as described in WO2012 / 120043, the internal diameter of the outlet of the nozzle is 0.8 mm.
The parameters are as follows:
OF flow (in mL / h / nozzle) 100 IF flow (in mL / h / nozzle) 7.5 T ° COF 80 T ° C IF 90
The composition according to Example 7 is in the form of a perfume concrete at room temperature (AT).
In addition to an original visual linked to the presence of macroscopic aqueous bubbles in the oily continuous phase, this composition has both an important perfuming power and a satisfying melting sensoriality.
权利要求:
Claims (16)
[1" id="c-fr-0001]
1. Composition, in particular cosmetic, comprising a fatty phase and
5 an aqueous phase, in which:
the aqueous phase is in the form of spheres (S1) solid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, comprising at least one hydrophilic gelling agent, preferably thermosensitive, and
the fatty phase comprises at least one lipophilic agent having a suspending power, preferably thixotropic, preferably a hydrophobic silica.
[2" id="c-fr-0002]
2. Composition according to claim 1, in which the hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from the group consisting of natural texture agents, semi-synthetic texture agents, synthetic texture agents, and their
15 mixes.
[3" id="c-fr-0003]
3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, in which the hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from natural heat-sensitive texturing agents, in particular agar-agar.
[4" id="c-fr-0004]
4. Composition according to claim 1 to 3, in which the content of hydrophilic gelling agent (s) is between 0.1% and 15%, preferably between 0.3% and 10%, preferably between 0.5% and 5%, in particular between 0.8% and 3%, in particular between 1% and 2%, by weight relative to the weight of aqueous phase
25 of said composition.
[5" id="c-fr-0005]
5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, in which the content of hydrophilic gelling agent (s) is between 0.5% and 0.9% by weight relative to the weight of aqueous phase of said composition.
[6" id="c-fr-0006]
6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, in which the aqueous phase comprises at least two hydrophilic gelling agents, at least one being a heat-sensitive hydrophilic gelling agent.
[7" id="c-fr-0007]
7. Composition according to claim 1 to 6, in which the content of hydrophilic gelling agent (s) thermosensitive (s) is between 0.1% and 15%, preferably between 0.3% and 10%, preferably between 0.5% and 5%, in particular between 0.8% and 3%, in particular between 1% and 2% or even between 0.3% and 0.8%, by weight relative to the weight of aqueous phase of said composition.
[8" id="c-fr-0008]
8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, in which the content in aqueous phase is between 1% and 30%, in particular between 1.5% and 20%, in particular between 2% and 10%, of preferably between 3% and 7%, and preferably between 4% and 6%, by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.
[9" id="c-fr-0009]
9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, in which the fatty phase content is between 70% and 99%, preferably between 70% and 95%, in particular between 75% and 90%, and preferably between 80% and 85%, by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.
[10" id="c-fr-0010]
10. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, in which the lipophilic agent having a suspensive power is chosen from organic or mineral, polymeric or molecular lipophilic gelling agents; solid fatty substances at room temperature and pressure; and their mixtures.
[11" id="c-fr-0011]
11. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, in which the lipophilic agent having a suspensive power is chosen from silicas such as fumed silicas and hydrophobic silica aerogels.
[12" id="c-fr-0012]
12. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, in which the content of lipophilic agent (s) having a suspensive power is between 0.5% and 99.50%, preferably between 1.5 % and 70%, in particular between 2.5% and 60%, and preferably between 3% and 50%, or even between 1% and 8%, and better still between 2.5% and 6%, by weight relative the total weight of the fatty phase, or even relative to the total weight of the composition.
[13" id="c-fr-0013]
13. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, in which the fatty phase comprises at least one oil, preferably at least one non-volatile oil, the oil content (s) preferably being between 0.5%. and 99% by weight relative to the total weight of the fatty phase of said composition.
[14" id="c-fr-0014]
14. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13,
5 comprising at least one coloring agent in the aqueous phase and / or the fatty phase.
[15" id="c-fr-0015]
15. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14, characterized in that it does not comprise a surfactant.
o
[16" id="c-fr-0016]
16. Non-therapeutic method of cosmetic treatment of a keratinous material, in particular the lips and / or the eyelids, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratinous material at least one composition according to any one of claims 1 at 15.
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同族专利:
公开号 | 公开日
EP3595619A1|2020-01-22|
FR3063899B1|2019-04-19|
WO2018167309A1|2018-09-20|
US20210077362A1|2021-03-18|
CN110636827A|2019-12-31|
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法律状态:
2018-01-18| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 2 |
2018-09-21| PLSC| Publication of the preliminary search report|Effective date: 20180921 |
2020-02-25| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 4 |
2021-02-10| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 5 |
2022-02-10| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 6 |
优先权:
申请号 | 申请日 | 专利标题
FR1752208A|FR3063899B1|2017-03-17|2017-03-17|COMPOSITIONS COMPRISING A FATTY PHASE AND AQUEOUS PHASE IN THE FORM OF SOLID SPHERES|
FR1752208|2017-03-17|FR1752208A| FR3063899B1|2017-03-17|2017-03-17|COMPOSITIONS COMPRISING A FATTY PHASE AND AQUEOUS PHASE IN THE FORM OF SOLID SPHERES|
EP18711343.6A| EP3595619A1|2017-03-17|2018-03-16|Compositions comprising a fatty phase and an aqueous phase in the form of solid spheres|
US16/494,646| US20210077362A1|2017-03-17|2018-03-16|Compositions comprising a fatty phase and an aqueous phase in the form of solid spheres|
PCT/EP2018/056755| WO2018167309A1|2017-03-17|2018-03-16|Compositions comprising a fatty phase and an aqueous phase in the form of solid spheres|
CN201880032453.9A| CN110636827A|2017-03-17|2018-03-16|Composition comprising a fatty phase and an aqueous phase in the form of solid spheres|
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