• 专利附录
  • 专利说明
  • 权利要求
  • 类似技术
  • 同族专利
  • 引用文献
  • 法律状态
  • 优先权
    • 专利摘要:
    The subject of the present invention is the use of a cosmetic composition intended for coloring keratinous fibers, in particular human hair, said cosmetic composition comprising, as active ingredient, an extract of Gardenia.
    公开号:FR3063639A1
    申请号:FR1752005
    申请日:2017-03-10
    公开日:2018-09-14
    发明作者:Christel Fiorini；Philippe Joulia
    申请人:Pierre Fabre Dermo Cosmetique SA；
    IPC主号:
    专利说明:

    ® FRENCH REPUBLIC
    NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF INDUSTRIAL PROPERTY © Publication number: 3,063,639 (to be used only for reproduction orders) (© National registration number: 17 52005
    COURBEVOIE © Int Cl 8 : A 61 K8 / 97 (2017.01), A 61 Q 5/10
    A1 PATENT APPLICATION
    ©) Date of filing: 10.03.17. © Applicant (s): PIERRE FABRE DERMO-COSME- (© Priority: TIQUE Simplified joint stock company - FR. @ Inventor (s): FIORINI CHRISTEL and JOULIA PHI- LIPPE. (43) Date of public availability of the request: 14.09.18 Bulletin 18/37. ©) List of documents cited in the report preliminary research: Refer to end of present booklet (© References to other national documents ® Holder (s): PIERRE FABRE DERMO-COSMETIQUE related: Joint stock company. ©) Extension request (s): (© Agent (s): REGIMBEAU.
    GARDENIA EXTRACT FOR THE COLORING OF KERATINIC FIBERS.
    yV) The present invention relates to the use of a cosmetic composition intended to color keratin fibers, in particular human hair, said cosmetic composition comprising, as active principle, an extract of Gardenia.
    FR 3 063 639 - A1
    i
    Gardenia extract for coloring keratin fibers
    The present invention relates to the use of an extract of Gardenia intended to color keratin fibers, in particular the hair.
    Among the methods for coloring hair, mention may be made of oxidation or permanent coloring. This staining mode uses one or more oxidation dye precursors, usually one or more oxidation bases optionally associated with one or more couplers.
    These oxidation bases are colorless or weakly colored compounds which, associated with oxidizing products, allow access, by a process of oxidative condensation, to colored species which remain trapped inside the hair fiber.
    When using an oxidative hair dye, the first agent and the second agent are mixed immediately before application and the mixture is applied to the hair. During the application of the hair coloring agent to oxidation, the oxidation dye penetrated into the hair is polymerized by oxidation in the hair so as to generate a voluminous indoid dye and the indo dye develops. Indo dye is not easily removed from the hair due to its size, which ensures excellent color retention of dyed hair and a wide variety of shades. However, it is known that oxidation dyes can cause skin disorders. In addition, it has been pointed out that oxidation dyes are endocrine disruptors that negatively affect an ecosystem, and also that they have reportedly produced cancer, allergies and the like.
    The colored and coloring molecules can also be natural compounds derived from plants or trees. It is however difficult to envisage all the dye nuances. There is therefore a real need to develop hair color from natural products.
    Unexpectedly, the inventors have found that an extract of gardenia could be useful for coloring keratin fibers, especially human fibers.
    Native to China and Japan, Gardenia jasminoides J. Ellis is a shrub of the Rubiaceae family with evergreen foliage, about 1 to 2 m tall generally. This plant is grown in hot and humid tropical countries. The leaves, dark green, are opposite, elliptical to oval-oblong, 5 to 10 cm long and 2 to 7.5 cm wide, cuneiform at the base and acute or acuminate at the apex with a short petiole and with stipules welded in pairs. The white to ivory flowers are bell-shaped, 3 to 4 cm, solitary, terminal, sessile and very fragrant. The fruit is a tough berry with 5 ribs, 1 to 1.5 cm long, ovoid or ellipsoid, surmounted by the persistent calyx, yellow to red at maturity and containing many seeds. The ripe fruit, harvested in autumn and dried, is listed in the Chinese Pharmacopoeia.
    Chinese medicine prescribes Gardenia fruit under different preparations: dried fruit (Zhi-zi), fried fruit (Chaozhi-zi) or charred fruit (Jiaozhi-zi). For internal use, it is prescribed as an antipyretic, against bacillary dysentery, pulmonary and urinary infections, hepatitis or as a hemostatic in nasal hemorrhages caused by fever and in external use to treat wounds, eye inflammation, bruises , sores and boils. In Japanese Kampo medicine the fruit is used to treat pain, lung conditions and jaundice. These traditional uses can be explained by the pharmacological properties of the fruit which is hemostatic, anti-inflammatory, stimulant, cholagogue, emetic and diuretic.
    The other parts of Gardénia jasminoides have multiple virtues. The febrifuge leaves are crushed in Malaysia to make poultices to treat migraines, pulmonary inflammations. The bark, feverish and tonic, is used in case of fever, dysentery and abdominal pain. In India, the root is used in dyspepsia and in nervous disorders. The emollient flowers are useful for treating ophthalmia, gonorrhea and vaginitis. The seeds are used externally as a paste to treat jaundice, rheumatism, diverticulosis.
    In addition to these medicinal uses, fruits are also used to color foodstuffs or textiles of yellow to orange color because of their richness in crocines, pigments identical to those of saffron.
    The main compounds of the fruit are:
    > iridoids, mainly represented by the geniposide and gardenenoside. The other iridoids present as well as the following compounds in lower quantities: 6-O-transsinapoylgenipin gentiobioside, 6-0-trans-p-coumaroylgenipin gentiobioside, 6-O-trans-cinnamoylgenipin gentiobioside, 6-Otrans-p-coumaroylgeniposide, acid 6 '-O-trans-pcoumaroylgeniposide, 10-O-succinoylgeniposide, 6'-Oacetylgeniposide, Gardenal-I, Gardenal-III, Gardenal-III, 6-βhydroxygeniposide, 6-o-hydroxygeniposide, 6-omethoxygeniposide, feriposide lp-gentiobioside, shanzhiside and lamalbidic and picrocrocinic acids.
    > carotenoids such as crceic acid, crocetin and crocins, glycosylated derivatives of crocetin. A distinction is made between crocin 1 (crocetin gentiobioside), crocin 2 (crocetin gentiobioside glucoside) and crocin 3 (crocetin glucoside),> flavonoids: gardenine, quercetin, quercetin-3rutinoside, quercetin-3-O-glucopyranoside, isoqu , umuhengérine, nicotiflorine.
    > caffeylquinic derivatives (3-caffeoylquinic acid, 4-caffeoylquinic acid), 3,4-dicaféoylquinic acid, 3,53063639 dicaféoylquinique acid, 4,5-dicaféoylquinic acid, 5-0 ethyl caféoylquinate, 5-O-caféoyl 3- Methyl O-sinapoylquinate, ethyl 5-O-coffeeoyl 3-O-sinapoylquinate, 5-O-caféoyl 4-0 methyl sinapoylquinate, Ethyl 5-O-coffeeoyl 4-O-sinapoylquinate, 3,5-di -O-caféoyl-4-0- (3-hydroxy-3methyl) methyl glutaroylquinate, 3-0-caféoyl-4-0 sinapoylquinic acid, 3-0-caféoyl-4-0-methyl sinapoylquinate, 3-0caf éoyl- Methyl 5-O-sinapoylquinate, 3,4-di-O coffeeoyl-5O- (3-hydroxy-methyl) glutaroylquinic acid, 3,5-di-0-caféoyl-4O- (3-hydroxymethyl) glutaroylquinic acid.
    > phenol acids such as chlorogenic, caffeic and 3,4-dihydroxy-benzoic acids.
    > lignans: gardenianane A, syringaresinol, pinoresinol, syringaresinol-4-O-p-D-glucopyranoside, lariciresinol, alangilignoside D, lyoniresinol, lyoniresinol-9-O-p-Dglucopyranoside, balanophonin, glycosinic acid.
    > sugars (mannitol).
    The present invention relates to the use of an extract or powder of gardenia to color keratin fibers, especially human fibers.
    The present invention relates to the use of a cosmetic composition intended to color keratin fibers, in particular human fibers, said cosmetic composition comprising, as active principle, an extract or a powder of gardenia.
    Preferably, it is a Gardenia fruit extract or a Gardenia fruit powder.
    Gardenia extract may be a fluid, aqueous or hydro-alcoholic extract, or a dry extract. In particular it is an aqueous extract.
    A fluid extract of Gardenia, more particularly an aqueous or hydro-alcoholic extract of Gardenia, according to the invention can thus be in the form of the liquid fraction (more or less viscous) obtained after extraction and liquid separation solid and containing from 20 to 60 % of dry extract, more particularly 30 to 50% of dry extract and more particularly still approximately 40% of dry extract in aqueous or hydroalcoholic solvent.
    The extract can also be in the form of dry extract once the solvent, aqueous or hydroalcoholic, evaporates from the fluid extract. This extract is typically pulverulent having an average particle size between 0.1 pm and 250 pm, particularly between 1 pm and 250 pm
    For the purposes of the present invention, the term "gardenia powder" means a pure natural product originating from the gardenia fruits reduced, by grinding or other mechanical means, into fine particles with an average particle size of between 0.1 μm and 250 μm, particularly between 1 pm and 250 pm.
    By keratin fibers is meant the hair, the hair, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, more particularly the hair.
    In another embodiment, the invention relates to the use of a cosmetic composition intended to color keratin fibers, in particular human fibers, said cosmetic composition comprising, as active principle, a gardenia powder.
    In another embodiment, the invention relates to the use of a cosmetic composition intended to color keratin fibers, in particular human fibers, said cosmetic composition comprising, as active principle, a fluid extract of Gardenia.
    In another embodiment, the invention relates to the use of a cosmetic composition intended to color keratin fibers, in particular human fibers, said cosmetic composition comprising, as active principle, a dry extract of Gardenia.
    Preferably, the Gardenia extract comes from the species Gardenia jasminoides.
    Also, preferably, the gardenia powder can come from gardenia jasminoides.
    According to one embodiment of the invention, the extract or powder of gardenia used for coloring keratin fibers, in particular the hair, contains a mass fraction of crocins of between 0.1 and 10%, preferably between 1 and 5%.
    The composition according to the invention can be formulated for administration to humans. The compositions according to the invention can be administered topically to the keratin fibers. Advantageously, the composition according to the present invention is intended for topical administration.
    According to a particularly advantageous embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic composition comprises at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient, in particular a viscosifying excipient.
    In the present invention, the term “cosmetically acceptable” is intended to denote that which is useful in the preparation of a cosmetic composition, which is generally safe, non-toxic and neither biologically nor otherwise undesirable and which is acceptable for cosmetic use, in particular by topical application.
    The compositions according to the invention are advantageously intended for topical application, in particular to the hair and the scalp.
    In the latter case, the Gardenia extract can be administered in unit administration forms, in mixture with conventional cosmetic carriers, in particular viscosifiers, suitable for human beings. Suitable unit dosage forms include topical forms.
    In the case where gardenia powder is used, this can be administered in unit administration forms, as a mixture with conventional cosmetic carriers, in particular viscosifiers suitable for human beings. Suitable unit dosage forms include topical forms.
    In a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises, per unit dose, from 10 mg to 100 g of gardenia extract or gardenia powder, preferably from 20 mg to 100 g, advantageously from 50 mg to 100 g and more preferably from 100 mg to 100 g, even more particularly from 200 mg to 75 g.
    In a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises, per unit dose, from 0.2 mg to 2 g of crocins, preferably from 1 mg to 2 g and more preferably from 2 mg to 2 g.
    According to one embodiment of the invention, the gardenia extract or powder contains a mass fraction of crocins of between 0.1 and 10%, preferably between 0.5 and 8%, preferably between 1 and 5%, even more preferably between 1 and 3%.
    According to one mode of the invention, the Gardenia extract contains a mass fraction of crocetin of between 0.01 and 5%, preferably between 0.03 and 3%, even more preferably between 0.1 and 1%.
    According to a particularly advantageous embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic composition also comprises at least one other coloring agent, in particular from plants, microorganisms or micro-algae.
    The present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method intended for coloring keratin fibers, in particular human hair, consisting in the administration of a cosmetic composition comprising an extract of Gardenia according to the invention.
    The present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method intended for coloring keratin fibers, in particular human hair, consisting in the administration of a cosmetic composition comprising gardenia powder according to the invention.
    According to a particular embodiment, the invention also relates to a method of method for dyeing keratin fibers comprising the steps:
    at) . application of a cosmetic composition comprising an extract or powder of gardenia according to claims 1 to 6,
    b). break time between 15 min and 3 hours,
    vs) . rinsing with water,
    d). possible repetition of steps a) to c),
    e). possible drying.
    The hair coloring method according to the invention can comprise a repeated application of the cosmetic composition according to the invention.
    The hair coloring method may include a rinsing step between repeated applications of the cosmetic composition according to the invention.
    The present invention finally relates to a process for the preparation of gardenia extract, particularly gardenia fruits.
    In one embodiment of the invention, the extract of Gardénia is obtained by:
    - an aqueous or hydroalcoholic extraction from whole fruits, optionally in the presence of pectinases,
    - a solid-liquid separation,
    - possible sterilization of the filtrate, and
    - possibly evaporation of the solvent at temperatures below 80 ° C, at atmospheric pressure.
    Gardenia fruits are extracted with a solvent chosen from the group consisting of water, an organic solvent such as ethanol, ethyl acetate or acetone, as well as their mixtures. The extraction can be carried out on whole fruit or roughly crushed beforehand. The addition of enzymes, such as pectinases, making it possible to improve the extraction and / or their filtration by fluidizing the extraction juices. The extraction can be carried out by a conventional method known to those skilled in the art, in a reactor, by ultrasound or even by microwaves at a temperature between 20 ° C. and 100 ° C. depending on the presence or absence of enzymes. The extraction can be carried out at atmospheric pressure or under pressure with subcritical water.
    After solid-liquid separation, the liquid fraction (ie the filtrate) can be concentrated sterilized and can be dried as it is or on a drying support, such as maltodextrin or silica. The drying is carried out at temperatures below 80 ° C. in order to avoid the degradation of the crocin molecules which are unstable at higher temperatures. It can be carried out by techniques known to a person skilled in the art, for example by microwave, freeze-drying or atomization.
    The following examples illustrate the invention without limiting its scope.
    EXAMPLE 1 Preparation of the Gardenia Extract
    The whole fruit from Gardénia is extracted at 90 ° C with water for 2 hours. After solid / liquid separation, pectinases are added. The filtrate is concentrated on water q.s.p. 40% of dry extract, sterilized then dried in the microwave.
    The dry aqueous extract obtained is a red powder. The yield is about 25%. The crocin contents are between 0.1 and 10%, the average crocin content is of the order of 2%.
    Gardenia fruits are preferably extracted with water or a mixture of water and an organic solvent, an alcohol such as ethanol or an ester such as acetone. The extraction can be carried out on whole fruit or roughly crushed beforehand. The addition of enzymes, such as pectinases to improve filtration can be carried out. The extraction can be carried out by a conventional method known to those skilled in the art, in a reactor, by ultrasound or also by subcritical water or by microwaves at a temperature between 20 ° C. and 100 ° C. depending on the presence or not. enzyme. After solid-liquid separation, the filtrate is used as it is or concentrated preferably up to 2 volumes of water for 1 part of plant involved, and is preferably sterilized. It can then be dried as it is (ie without a drying medium) by conventional methods (paddle dryer, freeze-drying or microwave or atomization) or on a drying medium, such as maltodextrin or silica. The use of maltodextrin allows better handling. The dry aqueous extract thus obtained is a red powder. The yield is about 25%. The production of 1 kg of extract requires the use of 4 kg of gardenia fruit. The crocin contents are between 0.1 to 10%, the average crocin content is of the order of 2%. As these molecules are sensitive to heat, the drying temperature is high and must be below 80 ° C at atmospheric pressure.
    Example 2: Gardenia Fruits and / or Gardenia Fruit Powder The dried Gardenia fruits are used as is or ground with a particle size preferably less than 250 μm.
    Example 3: Demonstration of the coloring efficacy on bleached human hair.
    Coloring composition 1:
    The Gardenia extract is mixed with water (mass ratio 1/20 to 1/10 preferably) at 50 ° C or a viscous agent such as natural mucilages (xanthan gum, Ispaghul, Lin, Okra, Konjac, Hibiscus, Calendula, Banana, Baobab, Acanthus, Aloes ...).
    Coloring process on lock of hair previously discolored (reference lock):
    The wick is completely soaked in this viscous solution and then put at 50 ° C for 30 min. The wick is then rinsed with hot water.
    Coloring composition 2:
    The ground Gardenia fruit powder, crushed with a particle size less than 250 μm preferably, is mixed with water (mass ratio 1/20 to 1/10 preferably) at 50 ° C. or a viscosifying agent such as natural mucilages (xanthan gum, Ispaghul, Lin, Okra, Konjac, Hibiscus, Calendula, Banana, Baobab, Acanthus, Aloes ...).
    Coloring process on lock of hair previously discolored (reference lock):
    The wick is completely soaked in this viscous solution and then put at 50 ° C for 30 min. The wick is then rinsed with hot water.
    Results:
    The treated locks are colored blonde, the intensity and depth of which vary according to the duration and the number of applications compared to the reference lock.
    权利要求:
    Claims (8)
    [1" id="c-fr-0001]
    Claims
    1. Use of a cosmetic composition intended to color keratin fibers, in particular human fibers, said cosmetic composition comprising, as active principle, an extract or a powder of gardenia.
    [2" id="c-fr-0002]
    2. Use according to claim 1 characterized in that said extract comes from the species Gardénia jasminoides.
    [3" id="c-fr-0003]
    3. Use according to one of claims 1 or 2 characterized in that said extract or powder contains a mass fraction of crocins of between 0.1 and 10%, preferably between 1 and 5%.
    [4" id="c-fr-0004]
    4. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 3 characterized in that said composition is administered topically.
    [5" id="c-fr-0005]
    5. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that said composition further comprises at least one other coloring agent.
    [6" id="c-fr-0006]
    6. Use according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the gardenia extract is obtained by:
    - an aqueous or hydroalcoholic extraction from whole fruits, possibly in the presence of pectinases,
    - a solid-liquid separation,
    - possible sterilization of the filtrate, and
    - possibly evaporation of the solvent at temperatures below 80 ° C, at atmospheric pressure.
    [7" id="c-fr-0007]
    7. Cosmetic treatment method intended to color keratin fibers, in particular human fibers, consisting in the administration of a cosmetic composition according to claims 1 to 6.
    [8" id="c-fr-0008]
    8. Method for coloring keratin fibers comprising the steps:
    at) . application of a cosmetic composition comprising an extract or powder of gardenia according to claims 1 to
    6,
    b). break time between 15 min and 3 hours,
    vs) . rinsing with water,
    d). possible repetition of steps a) to c),
    e). possible drying.
    FRENCH REPUBLIC will
    I institute r
    NATIONAL INSTITUTE
    INDUSTRIAL PROPERTY
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    同族专利:
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    US20210186855A1|2021-06-24|
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    PT3592432T|2021-06-02|
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    WO2018162760A1|2018-09-13|
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    引用文献:
    公开号 | 申请日 | 公开日 | 申请人 | 专利标题
    EP0440494A2|1990-02-02|1991-08-07|Tokiwa Kanpo Pharmaceutical Co., Ltd.|Hair dyeing|
    JPH04342518A|1991-05-16|1992-11-30|Kishi Kasei Kk|Hair dyeing agent|
    US20030145395A1|2001-04-27|2003-08-07|Yukiharu Murakami|Hair dye compositions for dressing the hair|
    US20100313362A1|2009-06-15|2010-12-16|Alex Vainshelboim|Henna and vegetable dye based compositions for coloring of human hair|
    WO2011117554A1|2010-03-25|2011-09-29|L'oreal|Dyeing method using a glycosylated iridoid derivative|
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    FR3003760A1|2013-03-29|2014-10-03|Oreal|COLORING METHOD USING IRIDOID COMPOUND AND DEVICES|
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    US7550014B2|2006-05-01|2009-06-23|Advanced Cosmetic Technologies, Llc|Composition for dyeing keratin fibers and a method of dyeing hair using same|
    US8187340B2|2009-12-21|2012-05-29|Living Proof, Inc.|Coloring agents and methods of use thereof|FR3097125B1|2019-06-12|2021-06-25|Fabre Pierre Dermo Cosmetique|Coloring composition comprising a combination of two plant extracts of Lawsonia inermis|
    FR3097126B1|2019-06-12|2021-06-25|Fabre Pierre Dermo Cosmetique|Coloring composition comprising a combination of natural coloring active agents including an extract of Lawsonia inermis|
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    法律状态:
    2018-03-30| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 2 |
    2018-09-14| PLSC| Publication of the preliminary search report|Effective date: 20180914 |
    2020-03-31| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 4 |
    2021-03-30| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 5 |
    优先权:
    申请号 | 申请日 | 专利标题
    FR1752005A|FR3063639B1|2017-03-10|2017-03-10|GARDENIA EXTRACT FOR THE COLORING OF KERATINIC FIBERS|
    FR1752005|2017-03-10|FR1752005A| FR3063639B1|2017-03-10|2017-03-10|GARDENIA EXTRACT FOR THE COLORING OF KERATINIC FIBERS|
    PCT/EP2018/056094| WO2018162760A1|2017-03-10|2018-03-12|Gardenia extract for keratin fibre dyeing|
    ES18711083T| ES2877615T3|2017-03-10|2018-03-12|Gardenia extract for coloring keratin fibers|
    PT187110838T| PT3592432T|2017-03-10|2018-03-12|Gardenia extract for keratin fibre dyeing|
    TW107108335A| TW201840305A|2017-03-10|2018-03-12|Gardenia extract for dyeing keratin fibres|
    JP2019549453A| JP2020510686A|2017-03-10|2018-03-12|Gardenia extract for keratin fiber dyeing|
    EP18711083.8A| EP3592432B1|2017-03-10|2018-03-12|Gardenia extract used for coloring keratin fibers|
    US16/492,376| US11266593B2|2017-03-10|2018-03-12|Gardenia extract for dyeing keratin fibres|
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