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    • 专利摘要:
    The subject of the invention is a cosmetic composition in the form of a solid water-in-oil emulsion characterized in that it comprises: a silicone emulsifier, at least one non-volatile silicone oil, a structuring agent of the an oily phase comprising a wax and / or an oily gelling agent, -30% to 50% water, -0% to 4%, preferably 0% to 2%, and more preferably still 0% of a volatile silicone oil, and or a volatile hydrocarbon oil, the percentages defined above being percentages by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for makeup and / or non-therapeutic care of the skin or the lips, characterized in that it consists in applying to the skin or the lips a composition as defined above .
    公开号:FR3062301A1
    申请号:FR1750887
    申请日:2017-02-02
    公开日:2018-08-03
    发明作者:Clemence Ravni；Helene De Clermont-Gallerande；Martine YVERNOGEAU
    申请人:Chanel Parfums Beaute SAS；
    IPC主号:
    专利说明:

    Holder (s):
    CHANEL PERFUMES BEAUTY.
    O Extension request (s):
    @ Agent (s): CABINET PLASSERAUD.
    FR 3 062 301 - A1 (54) SOLID WATER-IN-OIL COSMETIC EMULSION.
    (57) The subject of the invention is a cosmetic composition in the form of a solid water-in-oil emulsion characterized in that it comprises:
    - a silicone emulsifier,
    - at least one non-volatile silicone oil,
    a structuring agent for the oily phase comprising a wax and / or an oily gelling agent,
    - 30% to 50% water,
    - 0% to 4%, preferably 0% to 2%, and more preferably still 0% of a volatile silicone oil and / or of a volatile hydrocarbon oil, the percentages defined above being percentages by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
    The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for making up and / or non-therapeutic care of the skin or the lips, characterized in that it consists in applying to the skin or the lips a composition as defined above. .
    Solid water-in-oil cosmetic emulsion
    The present invention relates to a solid water-in-oil emulsion, usable in the cosmetic field, which is preferably in the form of a stick. The subject of the invention is also a process for making up and / or non-therapeutic care of the skin or the lips of human beings, comprising the application to the skin or the lips of said composition, preferably in the form of a stick.
    Make-up and / or care compositions are commonly used to provide an aesthetic appearance when applied to the lips or the skin, this effect obviously having to persist over time. They must in particular resist the various external factors likely to modify their aesthetic effect, such as saliva or sweat. In particular, cosmetic products, and in particular lipsticks, must not migrate or spin in wrinkles or fine lines, or transfer to a support. They must also be pleasant to apply to the lips or the skin and their deposition must provide a feeling of comfort to the user, while retaining satisfactory aesthetic properties.
    Documents FR2873018, EP374332 and WO1999 / 47111 all describe a solid water-in-oil cosmetic emulsion for application to make-up and skin care. However, these emulsions all contain a fairly large quantity of volatile oil, which can have certain drawbacks.
    Volatile oils, and in particular volatile silicone oils, have been widely used since 1995 in the formulation of lipsticks, with the aim of replacing the conventional vegetable oils and liquid paraffins usually used. Indeed, the use of volatile silicone oil improves the property of “non-transferability”, in particular sought for lipsticks, namely the absence of trace of red on a support which comes into contact with the lips (a glass, cup, skin, clothing ...).
    However, volatile silicone-based lipsticks are mat, brittle and have quite relative comfort (notably the feeling of tightness due to the evaporation of volatile oils). In addition, the evaporation of the silicones induces a reduction in the diameter of the red stick over time. In the long term, these reds do not age very well because a small loss of silicone makes the lipstick even more uncomfortable and dehydrating. In addition, the breaking of the stick at the base of the cup is then facilitated.
    Volatile oils with a short hydrocarbon chain, such as isododecane and isohexadecane, are also used to optimize the non-transferability of red and to avoid excessive formulation incompatibilities linked to volatile silicones.
    However, whatever the nature of the volatile compounds, their incorporation into a formula poses problems during the manufacture of the products. Indeed, the sticks for the skin or the lips are made hot to allow the melting of the waxes. The addition of volatile substances, silicone or mineral, is done at the last moment of manufacture, at a temperature as low as possible to avoid too much evaporation of these solvents. Indeed, the evaporation of volatile solvents makes it difficult on the one hand to control the final composition of the product. On the other hand, if the flash points of volatile solvents are low, in particular below the heating temperature of the “bulk” (ie the product in the tank) during the manufacture of the product, then safety problems arise which require the use of explosion-proof equipment to reduce the risk of handling.
    For all these reasons, the inventors have sought to obtain a cosmetic composition for the skin or the lips, in particular in the form of a stick, which contains little or no volatile oil, but which nevertheless has the properties usually sought for a skin or lip stick.
    An object of the invention is to propose a composition for making up and / or caring for the skin or the lips, having excellent sensorial properties, namely a feeling of comfort, freshness and melting at the time of application to the skin or lips. Comfort is understood in particular to mean, in the sense of the invention, the absence of a feeling of tightness of the skin or the lips.
    Another object of the invention is to provide a composition for making up and / or caring for the skin or the lips, having ease of spreading at the time of application to the skin or the lips and a homogeneous result once the composition applied.
    Another object of the invention is to propose a makeup and / or care stick for the skin or the lips which has good stability over time, namely which does not shrink compared to its initial shape, which does not does not break at its base, which does not age by drying or drying and which does not exhibit any phenomenon of exudation (namely the release of oil or water on the surface).
    Another object of the invention is to propose a stick for the skin or the lips which does not pose a safety problem during the manufacture of said stick.
    Yet another object of the invention is to propose a stick for the skin or the lips having good properties of stability, appearance and sensoriality and the manufacture of which does not require excessively high heating temperatures, not exceeding 95 ° C.
    It is to the Applicant's credit to have observed that it was possible to dispense with the presence of volatile oils usually used in cosmetic compositions, and in particular lipstick, of the prior art.
    In the sense of the invention, the term “overcoming” means not having volatile oils at all in the compositions or in very small quantities.
    Indeed, the Applicant has observed that a specific combination of particular compounds advantageously makes it possible to obtain cosmetic makeup and / or care compositions in the form of a stick for the skin or the lips, having all the properties sought in the framework of the invention (deposit of a matt or glossy film, absence of tightness of the skin or the lips, feeling of freshness, stick which does not shrink and does not age prematurely, manufacture of the non-binding stick, etc.).
    The subject of the invention is therefore a cosmetic composition in the form of a solid water-in-oil emulsion characterized in that it comprises:
    - a silicone emulsifier,
    - at least one non-volatile silicone oil,
    a structuring agent for the oily phase comprising at least one wax and / or at least one oily gelling agent,
    - 30% to 50% water,
    - 0% to 4%, preferably 0% to 2%, and more preferably still 0% of a volatile silicone oil and / or of a volatile hydrocarbon oil, the percentages defined above being percentages by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
    By "solid emulsion" is meant according to the invention an emulsion which does not flow under its own weight for 1 h at 25 ° C. This solid emulsion is however pourable when hot, at temperatures ranging from 55 ° C. to 95 ° C. in order to be in the form of a stick, preferably a make-up and / or skin care stick or the lips.
    Silicone emulsifier
    The silicone emulsifier used in the emulsion of the invention is a siloxane polymer comprising:
    - a fatty side chain,
    - an oxyethylenated or oxypropylenated side chain and / or a polyethoxylated (= glycerylated) side chain, and optionally
    - a silicone side chain.
    The fatty side chain of the silicone emulsifier provides good compatibility with the fatty phase of the water-in-oil emulsion.
    The silicone side chain makes it possible to have good compatibility with the non-volatile silicone oil, when the non-volatile oil of the cosmetic emulsion of the invention is a silicone oil.
    According to an embodiment of the invention, the silicone emulsifier comprises a fatty side chain and a silicone side chain.
    More particularly according to the invention, the silicone emulsifier is chosen from the group comprising:
    - the compound of formula (I):
    in which w is an integer ranging from 1 to 1000, x ’is an integer ranging from 1 to 50, x, y and z independently represent an integer ranging from 1 to 100,
    - the compound of formula (II):
    (Π) silicone chain glycerylated chain in which xi is an integer ranging from 1 to 1000, wi is an integer ranging from 1 to 50, yi and zi independently represent each other an integer ranging from 1 to 100,
    - the compound of formula (III):
    h
    I '

    (III), in which W2 is an integer ranging from 1 to 1000, V2 is an integer ranging from 1 to 50, x 2 , y2 and z 2 independently represent an integer ranging from 1 to 100, and their mixtures .
    According to a particular embodiment, the silicone emulsifier is chosen from the group comprising the siloxane polymers marketed by the company SHIN-ETSU under the references KF6038, KF6104, KF6105, KF6106 and their mixtures.
    The compound KF6038, having the INCI name "Lauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone" corresponds to the general formula (I). This siloxane polymer comprises a silicone side chain, an oxyethylenated side chain and a fatty side chain (lauryl).
    The compound KF6104, having the name INCI “Polyglyceryl-3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone”, and the compound KF6106, having the name INCI “Polyglyceryl-3
    Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone ”correspond to the general formula (II). This siloxane polymer comprises a silicone side chain and a glyceryl side chain.
    The compound KF6105, having the INCI name “Lauryl Polyglyceryl-3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone” corresponds to the general formula (III). This siloxane polymer comprises a silicone side chain, a glycerylated side chain and a fatty side chain (lauryl).
    The silicone emulsifier is present in the cosmetic composition of the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 5%, preferably from 1% to 3%, the percentages being percentages by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
    Emulsifying elastomeric silicone
    The solid water-in-oil emulsion can comprise, in addition to the silicone emulsifier as defined above, an emulsifying silicone elastomer, namely a crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane, preferably with a polyhydroxylated chain.
    The elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane can be obtained by a crosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon and of polyhydroxylated or polyoxyalkylenated compounds having ethylenically unsaturated groups, in particular in the presence of platinum catalyst.
    More particularly, the elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane is obtained by a crosslinking addition reaction (A) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each linked to a silicon and (B) of glycerolated or polyoxyalkylenated compounds having at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups, especially in the presence (C) of platinum catalyst.
    In particular, the organopolysiloxane can be obtained by reaction of a polyglycerolated compound with dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups and of methylhydrogenopolysiloxane with trimethylsiloxy end groups, in the presence of a platinum catalyst.
    Compound (A) is the basic reagent for the formation of elastomeric organopolysiloxane and crosslinking is carried out by addition reaction of compound (A) with compound (B) in the presence of catalyst (C). Compound (A) is in particular an organopolysiloxane having at least 2 hydrogen atoms linked to distinct silicon atoms in each molecule.
    Compound (A) may have a straight chain, branched chain structure or a cyclic structure. It can have a viscosity at 25 ° C ranging from 1 to 50,000 centistokes (cSt), in particular to be well miscible with the compound (B).
    The organic groups bound to the silicon atoms of compound (A) can be alkyl groups having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl (or lauryl), myristyl, cetyl , stearyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl, xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group or a mercapto group.
    Preferably, said organic group is chosen from methyl, phenyl or lauryl groups. Compound (A) can thus be chosen from methylhydrogenopolysiloxanes with trimethylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane copolymers with trimethylsiloxy endings, cyclic dimethylsiloxanemethylhydrogenosiloxane copolymers or dimethylsiloxane-methylhydroglycosiloxylmethyliloxylosiloxylmethylane ethoxylosiloxylmethylsiloxylosiloxylmethylane ethoxylosiloxylmethylsiloxylmethylane ethoxylosiloxylmethylane ethoxylosiloxylmethylane ethoxylosiloxylmethylane ethoxylosiloxylmethylsiloxylmethylane ethoxylosiloxylmethylane ethoxylosiloxyloxylmethylane ethoxylosiloxylmethylane ethoxyloxylmethyl siloxane compounds.
    Compound (B) can be:
    - or a polyglycerolated compound corresponding to the following formula (B 1 ):
    C m H 2m -iO- [Gly] n -C m H 2m .i (B 1 ), in which m is an integer ranging from 2 to 6, n is an integer ranging from 2 to 200, preferably from 2 to 100, preferably from 2 to 50, preferably from 2 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10, and even more preferably n is an integer ranging from 2 to 5, and in particular n is equal to 3; Gly denotes -CH 2 -CH (OH) -CH 2 -O- or -CH 2 -CH (CH 2 OH) -O-,
    - or a polyoxyalkylene compound having two vinyl groups.
    Advantageously, the sum of the number of ethylenic groups per molecule of the compound (B) and the number of hydrogen atoms linked to silicon atoms per molecule of the compound (A) is at least 4.
    Advantageously, the compound (A) is added in an amount such that the molecular ratio between the total amount of hydrogen atoms linked to silicon atoms in the compound (A) and the total amount of all the ethylenically unsaturated groups in compound (B) is from 1/1 to 20/1.
    Compound (C) is the catalyst for the crosslinking reaction, and is chosen from chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, black platinum or platinum on support.
    The catalyst (C) is preferably added in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight, preferably from 1 to 100 parts by weight, as clean platinum metal per 1000 parts by weight of the total amount of the compounds (A) and (B).
    The emulsifying silicone elastomer can be conveyed in the form of a gel in at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and / or a silicone oil. In these gels, the emulsifying elastomer is often in the form of non-spherical particles.
    Polyoxyalkylenated elastomers are especially described in patents US5236986, US5412004, US5837793, US5811487, the content of which is incorporated by reference.
    As polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomer, use may be made of those sold under the names KSG-21, KSG-20, KSG-30, KSG-31, KSG-32, KSG-33, KSG-210, KSG-310, KSG-320, KSG-330, KSG-340, X-226146 by the company Shin Etsu, DC9010, DC9011 by the company Dow Coming.
    Polyglycerolated elastomers are especially described in application WO-A2004 / 024798, the content of which is incorporated into the present application by reference.
    As polyglycerolated silicone elastomer, use may be made of those sold under the names KSG-710, KSG-810, KSG-820, KSG-830, KSG-840 by the company Shin Etsu.
    The emulsifying silicone elastomer, namely the crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane, preferably with polyhydroxylated chain, is present in the cosmetic composition of the invention in a content ranging from 0.05% to 3%, preferably from 0.1% to 2%, the percentages being percentages by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
    According to one embodiment of the invention, use is made in the cosmetic composition of the silicone emulsifier KF6038, alone or combined with the silicone elastomer emulsifier KSG210.
    Non-volatile oil
    For the purposes of the present invention, the term "oil" means a compound which is liquid at room temperature (25 ° C), and which, when it is introduced in an amount of at least 1% by weight in water at 25 ° C, is not at all soluble in water, or soluble up to less than 10% by weight, relative to the weight of oil introduced into water.
    The term "non-volatile oil" means an oil which has a boiling point generally greater than 300 ° C. under 760 mm of Hg (101325 Pa) and which has little or no vapor pressure.
    The term “silicone oil” or “silicone oil” means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.
    More particularly according to one embodiment of the invention, the non-volatile silicone oil is chosen from the group comprising polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) (dimethicones: INCI name) containing at least 8 silicon atoms, polyalkylmethylsiloxanes whose alkyl chain contains from 8 to 20 carbon atoms, alkyl dimethicones, vinyl methyl methicones, oils identified by the name INCI phenyl trimethicones and their mixtures.
    According to one embodiment of the invention, the non-volatile silicone oil is a dimethicone whose viscosity at 25 ° C is greater than 5 centistokes (cSt).
    By way of example of dimethicone, mention may be made of “dimethicone lOcSt” sold by:
    - the company SHIN-ETSU under the reference KF-96-A, and more particularly KF-96-A10CS,
    - the company Wacker Chimie under the reference Belsil DM10,
    - Dow Corning under the reference Xiameter-PM-200 SIL FLUID 10CS,
    - Evonik Industrie AG under the reference Abil 10.
    The non-volatile silicone oil of the invention can be used alone or as a mixture with other non-volatile oils.
    The non-volatile oil which can in particular be used in the composition of the invention is an ester oil.
    The term "ester oil" means an oil comprising at least one ester function in its molecule. Advantageously, the ester oil is a monoester.
    The ester oil can be chosen from the monoesters of formula R1COOR2 in which Ri represents a hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched, comprising from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 30 carbon atoms, and preferably from 7 to 20 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a branched hydrocarbon chain containing from 3 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, and preferably from 16 to 26 carbon atoms.
    As an example of an ester oil, mention may be made of 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, isooctyl palmitate, isoketyl palmitate, isodecyl palmitate, isostearyl palmitate, 2-octyl-decyl palmitate, isodecyl neopentanoate ί, isocetyl octanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl isononanoate, tridecyl isononanoate, hexyl laurate, laurate 2-hexyl-decyl, isopropyl myristate, isocetyl myristate, isotridecyl myristate, 2octyldodecyl myristate, isopropyl isostearate, 2-octyl dodecyl stearate, isostearate d isostearyl, 2-octyl dodecyl erucate, diisostearyl malate and mixtures thereof.
    Depending on the intended applications, other non-volatile oils may be added to the compositions of the invention.
    In the context of the present invention, the term “oil” also includes lipophilic fats which are capable of undergoing a reversible liquid / solid change and have an anisotropic crystalline organization in the solid state, but which are different from waxes by the fact that they contain, at a temperature of 23 ° C, a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. A compound of this type is in particular a mixture of sterol esters, such as the mixture of cholesterol and lanosterol ester available from the manufacturer CRODA under the trade name Super Sterol Ester®.
    The oils which can be used in the composition according to the invention can be chosen from the group comprising hydrocarbon oils; synthetic (poly) esters and (poly) ethers, in particular (poly) esters of C6-C20 acids and C6-C20 alcohols, advantageously branched, such as isononyl isononanoate; vegetable oils; branched and / or unsaturated fatty acids; branched and / or unsaturated fatty alcohols such as octyldodecanol; fluorosilicone oils; fluorinated oils; and their mixtures.
    In the case where it is desired to obtain a shiny composition, for example for an eye shadow, a shiny lip balm or a shiny lipstick, it is preferable to use in the present invention at least one shiny oil, c 'is to say an oil having a refractive index greater than 1.45, preferably greater than 1.47.
    Examples of shiny oils are in particular hydrocarbon oils such as squalane, phytosqualane, polybutene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, hydrogenated polydecene; phenylated silicone oils such as those identified:
    - by the name INCI phenyl trimethicone, in particular that marketed by Rhodia under the name MIRASIL® PTM,
    - by the name INCI phenylpropyldimethylsiloxysilicate, in particular that marketed by General Electric under the name Silshine® 151,
    - by the name INCI trimethylpentaphenyl trisiloxane, in particular that marketed by Dow Corning under the trade name DC PH® 1555 HRI.
    We can also cite, as shiny oils:
    - the fluorinated silicones identified by the name INCI perfluorononyl dimethicone, in particular that marketed by Phoenix Chemical, Inc under the trade name Pecosil® FS (FSU, FSL, etc.), and that marketed by Biosil Technologies under the trade name Biosil Basics® ( Fluorosil LF, 14, and the like);
    - the amino ceramides identified by the name INCI phytosteryl / octyldodecyl lauroyl glutamate, in particular that marketed by Ajinomoto under the trade name Eldew® PS203.
    Other examples of shiny oils are natural oils, in particular castor seed oil, jojoba oil, limnanthes oil; branched and / or unsaturated fatty alcohols such as octyldodecanol, mono- and polyesters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols whose fatty chain comprises from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular mono- and polyesters of hydroxy acids and fatty alcohols, such as diisostearylmalate, esters of benzoic acid and fatty alcohols, such as C 12 -C 15 alkyl benzoates, polyesters of polyols and in particular of (di) pentaerythritol, such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, dipentaerythrityl pentaisononanoate and C5-C9 dipentaerythrityl esters, polyglycerol esters, such as those identified by the name INCI bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-1 sold by Sasol Soft® 645, or polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate sold under the trade name Salacos 43N by Nisshin Oillio Group Ltd, trimethylolpropane esters, such as trimethylolpropane triethylhexanoate, sold in particular ment by Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo under the trade name Kak® TTO, propylene glycol esters, such as propylene glycol dibenzoate, sold in particular by Inolex under the trade name Lexfeel Shine®, isocetyl stearoyl stearates; polyesters of hydrogenated castor oil, such as the esters sold by Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo under the trade names Risocast® DA-H and Risocast® DA-L.
    In the cases where it is desired to obtain a mat composition, such as for example a concealer, a foundation or a mat lipstick, the oils used in the composition of the invention are non-shiny oils.
    Examples of suitable non-gloss oils in the cosmetic compositions of the invention include synthetic (poly) esters and (poly) ethers, in particular (poly) esters of C6-C20 acids and C6- alcohols C20, advantageously branched, such as isononyl isononanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate; di (C6-C20 alkyl) carbonates such as dicaprylyl carbonate sold by BASF under the name Cetiol CC; branched and / or unsaturated fatty acids; polyesters of polyols, in particular of (di) pentaerythritol, such as pentaerythritol tetraoctanoate, silicone oils such as linear polydimethylsiloxanes of viscosity greater than 5 cSt; and their mixtures.
    According to one embodiment, the compositions of the invention comprise a mixture of the oils mentioned above.
    According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the non-volatile oil, used in combination with the non-volatile silicone oil, is chosen from the group comprising shiny non-volatile oils and in particular mono- and polyesters of acids. fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, the fatty chain of which comprises from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular the mono- and polyesters of hydroxy acids and fatty alcohols, such as diisostearyl malate.
    According to another advantageous embodiment of the invention, the non-volatile oil, used in combination with the non-volatile silicone oil, is chosen from the group comprising non-shiny silicone non-volatile oils and in particular linear polydimethylsiloxanes of viscosity greater than 5 cSt.
    As an example of the invention, the non-volatile silicone oil used in the composition is combined with an ester oil, in particular 2-ethylhexyl palmitate and / or diisostearyl malate.
    The non-volatile silicone oil is present in the cosmetic composition of the invention in a content ranging from 30% to 50%, the percentages being percentages by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
    When the non-volatile silicone oil is combined with other non-volatile oils as defined above, then the total amount of non-volatile oils is also from 30% to 50%, the percentages being percentages by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
    Structuring agent for the oil phase
    The structuring agent for the oily phase comprises at least one wax and / or at least one oily gelling agent.
    The term “wax” designates a fat with reversible liquid / solid change, having a melting temperature above 30 ° C. and generally below 110 ° C., which is liquid under the conditions of preparation of the composition and which has an organization anisotropic crystalline solid state.
    The term “oily gelling agent” designates a substance capable of solidifying or gelatinizing the oil introduced into the composition of the invention.
    According to one embodiment of the invention, the structuring agent is a mixture of at least one wax and at least one oily gelling agent.
    According to another embodiment of the invention, the structuring agent is a mixture of at least two waxes.
    The wax suitable for the cosmetic compositions of the invention comprises at least one polar wax and / or at least one apolar wax.
    By polar wax is meant a wax comprising at least one heteroatom such as oxygen, nitrogen, silicon or phosphorus.
    In particular, the polar wax can be chosen from the group comprising beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, cotton wax, rice bran wax, bay wax, Chinese insect, montan wax, lanolin and its alcohol, acetylated, esterified, polyethoxylated derivatives, kapok wax, sugar cane wax, hexyl laurate, jojoba wax, shellac wax, l polyethoxylated cholesterol ether, synthetic beeswaxes marketed by Koster Keunen under the trade name Rester Wax K82H, and mixtures thereof.
    Mention may also be made of plant ester waxes chosen from the group comprising the mixture of jojoba esters, polyglycerin-3, acacia decurrens flower wax and sunflower seed wax, said mixture being marketed by Gattefosse under the trade name Acticire®, the jojoba esters marketed by Floratech under the trade name Floraesters 60 or Floraesters 70, the alkyl esters or hydrogenated alkyl esters marketed by Sophim under the trade name Photowax, such as for example the esters of hydrogenated lauroyl oleate marketed under the name Phytowax Olive 12L44.
    By apolar wax is meant a hydrocarbon wax and / or a silicone wax.
    The term "apolar hydrocarbon wax" means a wax comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms and not comprising heteroatoms such as oxygen, nitrogen, silicon or phosphorus.
    Examples of apolar hydrocarbon waxes suitable in the compositions of the invention include polyethylene wax, sold by New Phase Technologies under the name Performalene 400 (P400) or by Jeen International Corporation under the name Jeenate 3H, a mixture of linear polyethylene of high molecular weight and of ethylene / propylene copolymer, marketed by Safic-Alcan under the name Lipwax® PZ80-20, a synthetic wax marketed by Sasol under the name Sasol Wax C80, synthetic waxes and vegetable waxes, such as for example a mixture synthetic wax and carnauba wax (Copernica cerifera) marketed by Strahl & Pitsch under the name Smart wax 202, a mixture of synthetic wax, Candelilla wax and carnauba wax (Copernica cerifera) marketed by Strahl & Pitsch under the name Smartwax 7743S, Fischer Tropsch waxes sold by pa r Cirebelle under the name Cirebelle 303, and mixtures thereof.
    The term “silicone apolar wax” means a wax comprising a silicon heteroatom.
    Examples of apolar silicon waxes suitable in the compositions of the invention include C20-24 alkyl dimethicone, sold by Siltech under the name Silwax D2024, C24-28 alkyl dimethicone, sold by Evonik Industries AG under the name Abil Wax, and their mixtures.
    According to one embodiment of the invention, the wax is a nonpolar wax or a mixture of nonpolar waxes, said nonpolar wax being a nonpolar hydrocarbon wax or a mixture of nonpolar hydrocarbon waxes.
    More particularly, according to yet another embodiment of the invention, the wax is chosen from the group comprising a polyethylene wax, alone or in combination with another polyethylene wax, a mixture of polyethylene wax and wax. vegetable esters, a mixture of synthetic wax and carnauba wax, jojoba esters and their mixtures.
    Examples of wax that may be mentioned are polyethylene wax "Jeenate 3H", a mixture of polyethylene wax "Jeenate 3H" and polyethylene wax "Performalene
    400 ", a blend of" Jeenate 3H "polyethylene wax and" Smart wax 202 ", a blend of" Jeenate 3H "polyethylene wax and" Floraester 70 "jojoba esters.
    According to one embodiment of the invention, the wax is present in the cosmetic composition of the invention in a content ranging from 2% to 12%, preferably from 6% to 10%, the percentages being percentages by weight per relative to the total weight of the composition.
    The choice on the one hand of the wax and on the other hand of its quantity, will be made so as to obtain a cosmetic composition having an acceptable hardness, good stability, good sensory properties, while maintaining the heating temperature of the " bulk ”as low as possible during the manufacturing process of said composition.
    The oily gelling agent which can be included in the cosmetic composition of the invention is chosen from the group comprising a silicone polymer; a cyclic vinyl dimethicone / dimethicone copolymer; a polyamide resin or a poly (ester-amide) resin; a copolymer of styrene and at least one olefin other than styrene; a diamide of Nacyl glutamic acid; a dextrin ester; a sucroester and their mixtures.
    As an example of a silicone polymer suitable as an oily gelling agent, mention may be made of a silicone polymer obtained by self-polymerization in the presence of a catalyst of an organopolysiloxane functionalized with epoxy and hydrosilyl groups, sold by General Electric under the name Velvesil ® 125.
    As an example of a cyclic vinyl dimethicone / dimethicone copolymer suitable as an oily gelling agent, mention may be made of that marketed by Jeen under the trade name Jeesilc® PS (including PS VH, PS VHLV, PS CM, PS CMLV and PS DM).
    As examples of polyamide resins or poly (ester-amide) resins suitable as oily gelling agents, mention may be made of ester-terminated polyamides (ETPA), poly (ester-amides) terminated with an ester (ETPEA) , tertiary amide terminated polyamides (ATPA), polyalkyleneoxy terminated polyamides (PAOPA) or polyether polyamides (PEPA).
    Examples of ester-terminated polyamides (ETPA) are those identified by the name INCI Ethylenediamine / Stearyl Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer and available, for example, under the trade name Uniclear® 100VG from the company Arizona Chemical.
    Examples of poly (ester-amides) terminated by an ester (ETPEA) are those identified by the name INCI polyamide-8 which are ethylene diamine bis-stearyl ethylene diamine / neopentyl glycol / stearyl dimer dibenzoate copolymers and available, for example, under the trade name Oloecraft® LP-20-PA-MV from Croda.
    Examples of tertiary amide-terminated polyamides (ATPA) are those identified by the name INCI Ethylenediamine / Hydrogenated dimer diilinoate copolymer Bis-DiC14-18 Alkyl Amide and available, for example, under the trade name Sylvaclear® A200V or Sylvaclear® A2614V from the company Arizona Chemical or those identified by the name INCI diisostearyl malate and bis-dioctadecylamide dimer dilinoleic acid / ethylenediamine and available, for example, under the trade name Haimalate PAM from the company Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo.
    Examples of polyalkyleneoxy-terminated polyamides (PAOPA) are those identified by the name INCI Polyamide-3 and available, for example, under the names Sylvaclear® AF 1900V, Sylvaclear® PE1800V and Sylvaclear® PA1200V from the company Arizona Chemical.
    Examples of polyether polyamides (PEPA) are those identified by the name INCI Polyamide-6 and available, for example, under the name Sylvaclear® PE400V from the company Arizona Chemical.
    As examples of copolymers of styrene and at least one olefin other than styrene, suitable as an oily gelling agent, mention may be made of copolymers, in particular block copolymers, of styrene and at least one olefin other than styrene chosen from ethylene, propylene, butylene, butadiene, isoprene and their mixtures. These copolymers are sold by Shell under the trade name Kraton® and can in particular be a styrene-ethylene-propylene, styrene-ethylene-butylene, styrene-butadiene, styrene-isoprene, styrene-butadiene-styrene, styrene-isoprene-styrene copolymer or a styrene-ethylene-butylene-styrene copolymer or also an ethylene / propylene / styrene or butylene / ethylene / styrene copolymer or any mixture of the abovementioned copolymers, for example a mixture of ethylene / propylene / styrene and butylene / ethylene / styrene copolymers. An example of a mixture of copolymers which can be used according to the invention consists of the Dekagel® products sold by Jan Dekker and in particular Dekagel® HV2004. Other examples of styrene copolymers which can be used in the present invention are those sold by Penreco under the trade names Versagel® M,
    ME, ML, MP, MC, MD and MN, in particular Versagel® ME, more particularly Versagel® ME 2000.
    As examples of diamides of N-acyl glutamic acid suitable as an oily gelling agent, mention may in particular be made of a diamide of N-acyl glutamic acid having a straight chain alkyl group such as dibutyl lauroyl glutamide and a diamide of N-acyl glutamic acid having a branched chain alkyl group, such as dibutyl ethylhexanoyl glutamide. Dibutyl lauroyl glutamide is commercially available as GP-1 and dibutyl ethylhexanoyl glutamide is commercially available as EB-21, and are both marketed by Ajinomoto.
    As examples of dextrin esters suitable as an oily gelling agent, mention may be made of dextrin esters and of fatty acids, such as dextrin palmitate.
    As examples of sucrose esters suitable as an oily gelling agent, mention may be made of sucrose esters of fatty acids, such as the sucrose tetrastearate triacetate available under the trade name Sisterna® A10E-C from the company Sisterna. .
    According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, mention may more particularly be made, as oily gelling agent, of sucrose esters such as sucrose tetrastearate triacetate, sold by Sisterna under the trade name Sisterna® A10E-C.
    According to one embodiment of the invention, the gelling agent of the oily phase is present in the cosmetic composition of the invention in a content ranging from 2% to 12%, preferably from 6 to 10%, the percentages being percentages by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
    The structuring agent for the oily phase is present in the cosmetic composition of the invention in a content ranging from 2% to 12%, preferably from 6% to 10%, the percentages being percentages by weight relative to the total weight of composition.
    The composition of the invention is more particularly characterized in that it comprises:
    - 2% to 8%, preferably 3% to 5%, of the silicone emulsifier as defined above,
    - 20% to 50% of the non-volatile silicone oil as defined above,
    - 2% to 12%, preferably 6% to 10%, of structuring agent for the oily phase as defined above, the percentages defined above being percentages by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
    Water
    According to an advantageous embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the invention comprises water, preferably demineralized water, in an amount ranging from 30% to 50%, preferably from 35% to 45%, and more preferably in an amount of about 40%, the percentages being percentages by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
    Volatile oil
    According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the composition does not contain (0%) or very little (maximum 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition) of volatile oil.
    By volatile oil is meant an oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than an hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.
    The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil, liquid at room temperature, in particular having a non-zero vapor pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (0.001 to 300 mm Hg), preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and even more preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1,300 Pa (0.01 to 1000 mm of Hg).
    Volatile oils include volatile silicone oils and / or volatile hydrocarbon oils.
    The volatile silicone oils optionally used in the compositions of the invention are linear or cyclic, in particular have from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, optionally alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, and have a viscosity, at temperature ambient, less than 5 cSt.
    Examples of volatile silicone oil can be mentioned more particularly hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, cyclotetradimethylsiloxane, cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, cyclohexadimethylsiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, rhexylheptaméthyltrisiloxane, roctylheptaméthyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, heptamethylhexyl trisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl trisiloxane and their mixtures.
    With regard to volatile hydrocarbon-based oil, mention may more particularly be made of a short-chain hydrocarbon-based oil, volatile linear alkanes such as, for example, described in document FR2933865 incorporated by reference.
    As examples of short-chain hydrocarbon oil (s), it is possible in particular that (s) chosen from the group comprising isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane and their mixtures.
    By way of example of linear volatile alkanes, mention may be made of those having hydrocarbon chains by:
    - C9-C17, C10-C14, such as a mixture of undecane and tridecane, marketed by BASF Care Creations under the name Cetiol® Ultimate,
    - Cl5-19, such as those marketed by Seppic under the name Emogreen L15,
    - C12-14, such as those marketed by Biosynthis under the name Vegelight 1214LC.
    According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the composition as defined above can also comprise a non-silicone emulsifier, a humectant, a filler, a coloring matter and / or a preservative.
    Non-silicone emulsifier
    The non-silicone emulsifier is especially chosen from the group comprising polymers of the polyoxyalkylenated glycol fatty acid ester type, such as Polysorbate 60 marketed by Croda under the name Tween 60, Polysorbate 20 marketed by Croda under the name Tween 20 , Polysorbate 85 sold by Seppic under the name Montanox 85, and mixtures thereof, and is preferably the emulsifier identified by the name INCI Polysorbate 60.
    The cosmetic composition of the invention comprises from 0% to 5% of non-silicone emulsifier, preferably from 0.1% to 1%, the percentages being percentages by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
    Humectant
    The term “humectant” is understood to mean a compound comprising at least two hydrophilic groups, that is to say groups which form hydrogen bonds with water molecules, such as for example hydroxyl, amine and / or carboxyl groups.
    A suitable humectant in the cosmetic composition of the invention is chosen in particular from the group comprising glycerol; glycols, such as propylene glycol, butylene glycol and hexylene glycol; sugar alcohols or sugar polyols, such as sorbitol, xylitol and maltitol; polymer polyols such as polydextrose; alphahydroxy acids such as lactic acid; hyaluronic acid; urea; L-pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA); and their mixtures.
    According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the humectant is glycerol and / or glycols.
    The cosmetic composition of the invention comprises from 0% to 10% of humectant, preferably from 1% to 6% of humectant, the percentages being percentages by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
    Charge
    By filler is meant colorless or white, mineral or synthetic particles, solids of all forms, which are in an insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition, whatever the temperature at which the composition is produced. The fillers can be mineral or organic and of any shape, platelet, spherical or oblong, whatever the crystallographic form (for example sheet, cubic, hexagonal, orthorombic, etc.). The fillers can consist of several layers of different chemical and / or physical nature and can be produced in the form of lamellae coated with spherical fillers. They can be modified using different surface treatments.
    The filler which can be used in the cosmetic compositions of the invention is chosen from the group comprising talc, mica, silica, kaolin, boron nitride, lauroyl lysine, sericite, cellulose beads, beads glass, starch, starch modified with octenylsuccinic anhydride, silicone resins such as polymethylsilsesquioxane available under the name Tospearl 2000B from Momentive Performance Materials, powders derived from silicone elastomers such as elastomer silicone coated with a silicone resin available under the trade name KSP100 or KSP300 from ShinEtsu, and their mixtures.
    The cosmetic composition of the invention comprises from 0% to 25% of filler, preferably from 2% to 10%, the percentages being percentages by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
    The fillers are advantageously in powder form.
    Coloring matter
    The composition can also comprise at least one coloring material chosen from the group comprising water-soluble dyes, liposoluble dyes, particles having the effect of coloring and / or opacifying the composition, such as pigments, nacres, lacquers ( water-soluble dyes adsorbed on an inert inorganic support), and mixtures thereof.
    These coloring matters can optionally be treated on the surface with a hydrophobic agent such as silanes, silicones, soaps of fatty acids, C9-C15 fluoroalkyl phosphates, acrylate / dimethicone copolymers, C9 fluoroalkyl phosphate mixed copolymers -C15 / silicone, lecithins, camauba waxes, polyethylene, chitosan and optionally acylated amino acids, such as lauroyl lysine, disodium stearoyl glutamate and aluminum acyl glutamate.
    The pigments can be inorganic or organic and natural or synthetic.
    Examples of inorganic pigments are in particular iron, titanium or zinc oxides, ultramarine blue, prussian blue, manganese violet, chromium oxide, as well as composite pigments and goniochromatic, pearlescent pigments, interfering, photochromic or thermochromic, without this list being limiting.
    Among the organic pigments which can be used in the invention, mention may be made of Red 7, Red 6, Yellow 5, Yellow 6, Blue 1, Red 22, Red 28, Red 30, Red 33, Red 36, carbon black, lacquers based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum or diketo pyrrolopyrrole (DPP) described in documents EP-A-542669, EP-A787730, EP-A-787731 and WO-A- 96 / 08537.
    When it comprises one or more pigments, the cosmetic composition according to the invention also comprises a dispersing agent. By way of example of a dispersing agent, mention may be made of diisostearyl malate, which is also an ester oil.
    The nacres (or pearlescent agents) can be chosen from those conventionally present in make-up products, such as products based on mica / titanium dioxide. They can also be products based on mica / silica / titanium dioxide, based on synthetic fluorophlogopite / titanium dioxide (Sunshine® from Maprecos), based on sodium calcium borosilicate / titanium dioxide (Reflecks® by Engelhard ) or based on calcium borosilicate and aluminum / silica / titanium dioxide (Ronastar® from Merck).
    The cosmetic composition of the invention comprises from 0% to 10% of coloring matter, preferably from 2% to 6%, the percentages being percentages by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
    Like the fillers, the coloring matters are advantageously in pulverulent form.
    Preservative
    The cosmetic composition may also comprise a preservative, in particular chosen from the group comprising phenoxyethanol, potassium sorbate, sodium dehydroacetate, chlorphenesin, parabens such as methylparaben or propylparaben, and their mixtures.
    The cosmetic composition of the invention comprises from 0% to 2% of preservative, preferably from 0.1% to 1%, the percentages being percentages by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
    According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the composition as defined above is more particularly characterized in that it comprises:
    - 0% to 5% of non-silicone emulsifier as defined above, preferably 0.1% to 1%,
    - 0% to 10% of moisturizer as defined above, preferably 1% to 6%,
    - 0% to 25% of charge as defined above, preferably 2% to 10%,
    - 0% to 10% of coloring matter as defined above, preferably 2% to 6%,
    - 0% to 2% of preservative as defined above, preferably 0.1% to 1%, the percentages defined above being percentages by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
    Cosmetic active
    The composition according to the invention can also comprise a cosmetic active, in particular chosen from the group comprising hydrating agents such as hyaluronic acid, L-pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA); healing agents such as allantoin; anti-aging agents such as antioxidants, such as for example ascorbic acid and / or its alkyl or phosphoryl esters, tocopherol and / or its esters; and their mixtures.
    Sequestering agent
    The composition of the invention may also comprise a sequestering agent, such as the salts of ethylene diamine tetraacetic acid edetic acid (EDTA).
    UV filter
    The composition of the invention may also comprise a UV filter chosen from the group comprising organic filters, inorganic filters and their mixtures.
    Mention may in particular be made, as organic filters, of dibenzoylmethane derivatives (comprising butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane), cinnamic acid derivatives (comprising ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate), salicylates, para-aminobenzoic acids, β, βdiphenylacrylates, benzophenones, benzylidenecamphor derivatives, phenylbenzimidazoles, triazines, phenylbenzotriazoles and / or anthranilic derivatives.
    Mention may in particular be made, as inorganic filters, of filters based on inorganic oxides in the form of pigments or nanopigments which may or may not be coated, and in particular based on titanium dioxide or zinc oxide.
    Sweetening agent
    When the composition of the invention is in the form of a lip product, it may also comprise a sweetening agent, in particular chosen from the group comprising sorbitol, sucrose, xylitol, acesulfame-K, saccharinate sodium and their mixtures.
    When the cosmetic composition of the invention is in the form of a concealer, it may also comprise an astringent agent (which reduces the appearance of pores) and / or a bleaching agent.
    Examples of additives which can be added to the cosmetic compositions of the invention are in particular described in the CTFA dictionary (International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary) and in the Handbook published by "The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association, 9 th Edition, 2002" .
    Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional cosmetic ingredients, and / or their quantity, in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, affected by 'proposed addition.
    The composition of the invention is in the form of a stable solid water-in-oil emulsion, with a homogeneous appearance.
    By stable is meant an emulsion which does not release water or oil and which remains in its initial form, even when exposed to ovens at a temperature ranging from 5 ° C. to 40 ° C. for 3 months.
    By homogeneous appearance is meant an emulsion whose surface is smooth and uniform to the naked eye.
    The cosmetic composition of the invention as defined above can also be characterized in that it has a hardness ranging from 70 g to 150 g (grams), preferably ranging from 80 g to 120 g, and even more preferably ranging from 80 g to 100 g.
    The hardness of the composition, which is expressed in grams (g), is determined by measuring the compressive force measured at 20 ° C. using a texturometer sold under the name "TA-XT Plus Microstable System" by the company Swantech. The texturometer is equipped with a stainless steel cylinder with a diameter of 2 mm moving at the measurement speed of lmm / s and penetrating into the composition at a depth of 3 mm.
    The hardness value is the compression force measured, divided by the surface area of the texturometer cylinder in contact with the composition. The samples are poured hot and to the brim into a round petri dish, size 60 mm in radius and 15 mm in height. The samples thus prepared are stored for 24 h to 48 h at 20 ° C before carrying out the measurement.
    The composition according to the invention can be advantageously used for non-therapeutic care and / or make-up of the skin or the lips.
    According to this embodiment, the invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of a solid water-in-oil emulsion as defined above, characterized in that it is in the form of a stick, of preferably a makeup stick for the skin or the lips and / or a non-therapeutic care stick for the skin or the lips.
    The subject of the invention is also a cosmetic process for making up and / or non-therapeutic care of the skin or the lips, characterized in that it consists in applying to the skin or the lips a composition as defined above. .
    The composition according to the invention can be prepared according to the following procedure.
    On the one hand, the mixture of the constituents of the oily phase is prepared by mixing and heating, at a temperature ranging from 70 ° C. to 120 ° C., the silicone emulsifying system (namely the silicone emulsifier and optionally the silicone elastomer emulsifier ), non-volatile silicone oil and the structuring agent for the oily phase.
    The mixture is stirred and kept at a temperature ranging from 70 ° C to 95 ° C.
    Optional ingredients such as other non-volatile oils, dyes etc. can be added in the oily phase.
    On the other hand, the aqueous phase is prepared mainly comprising water, and optionally a non-silicone emulsifier, and preservatives.
    The aqueous phase is then heated to a temperature ranging from 70 ° C to 95 ° C, then the aqueous phase is added to the oily phase, stirred using a turbine until the emulsion is obtained water-in-oil.
    The emulsion is then poured at a temperature ranging from 55 ° C to 95 ° C in an appropriate container in order to give it the form of a stick, then is cooled to room temperature until the emulsion is obtained. solid.
    The following examples are given by way of illustration and without limitation of the present invention.
    Examples
    Five solid water-in-oil lip emulsions having the respective compositions given in Tables 1 to 5 below (compositions 1 to 5) were prepared.
    The percentages indicated are percentages by weight.
    1) Composition 1
    Table 1:
    INCI Name Trade name Qty in% (Total = 100%) Function Dimethicone KF-96A-10CS 35 Non-volatile silicone oil Synthetic wax & cera carnauba (copemicia cerifera (carnauba) wax) Smart wax 202 5 Wax Jojoba esters & polyglycerin-3 & acacia decurrens flower wax & helianthus annuus cera seed (helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax) Acticire 4.5 Wax Lauryl PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone KF-6038 2.5 Silicone emulsifier Dimethicone & dimethicone / PEG-10/15 crosspolymer & dipropylene glycol & tocopherol KSG-210 2 Emulsifying elastomeric silicone Pigment = mixture of iron oxide and titanium dioxide Diisostearyl malate - 24 Pigment ground and dispersed in ester oil 3.8 Mother of pearl Aqua (water) Demineralized Water 40 Water Polysorbate 60 Tween 60-LQ 0.5 Non-silicone emulsifier Phenoxy ethanol Sepicide LD 0.7 Conservative
    Note :
    The addition of dispersing agent diisostearyl malate (which is also an ester oil) improves the dispersion of the pigments in the composition.
    The procedure used for the preparation of composition 1 (table 1) above is as follows.
    1) The fatty phase is prepared in a water bath at 95 ° C. More particularly, a premixing of the silicone emulsifying elastomer KSG-210 is carried out in the silicone emulsifier KF-6038. The grinding of the pigments (dispersed in diisosterayl malate) and the non-volatile silicone oil (KF-96A-10CS) are added. The mixture is stirred manually.
    2) The waxes are added to the mixture obtained in 1). The mixture is heated to a temperature ranging from 90 ° C to 100 ° C and is kept at this temperature for 10 minutes.
    3) The mixture obtained in 2) is stirred with rayneri at 300 rpm, then the nacres are added.
    4) In parallel, the aqueous phase is prepared. The non-silicone emulsifier (Tween 60LQ) is dissolved in demineralized water and the preservative is added. The whole is heated in a water bath to a temperature of 90 ° C.
    5) The aqueous phase obtained in 4) is poured, slowly and continuously, into the fatty phase obtained in 3) with vigorous stirring.
    6) The mixture obtained in 5) is left emulsified for 5 minutes while maintaining the temperature at 90 ° C.
    7) The water-in-oil emulsion thus obtained is poured hot at a temperature ranging from 70 ° C to 90 ° C in a suitable device for preparing a lip stick.
    8) The cast product is left to cool before demolding.
    2) Composition 2
    Table 2:
    INCI Name Trade name Qty in% (Total = 100%) Function Dimethicone & Dimethicone / PEG10 / 15 Crosspolymer & Dipropylene glycol & tocopherol KSG-210 2 Emulsifying elastomeric silicone Lauryl PEG-9polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone KF-6038 2.5 Silicone emulsifier Pigment = mixture of iron oxide and titanium dioxide Diisostearyl malate24 Pigment ground and dispersed in ester oil Dimethicone KF-96A-10CS 28,275 Non-volatile silicone oil Ethylhexyl palmitate Palmitate ethyle 2 hexyle 9.425 Non-volatile ester oil Polyethylene Jeenate 3H 6 Wax Polyethylene Performalene 400 1.5 Wax 3.8 Mother of pearl Aqua (water) Demineralized Water 40 Water Polysorbate 60 Tween 60-LQ 0.5 Non-silicone emulsifier
    Note :
    The non-volatile ester oil used in the composition of the invention, namely 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, makes it possible to improve the compatibility of the hydrocarbon wax with the silicone compounds of the formula.
    The procedure used for the preparation of composition 2 (Table 2) above is the same as that of Example 1. The 2-ethyl-hexyl palmitate is added in the fatty phase of point 1).
    Composition 2 is subsequently poured into a petri dish and placed for 24 to 48 hours at 20 ° C. before carrying out the hardness measurement under the conditions described above.
    The measurement of the hardness of composition 2 (Table 2) is 88 +/- 3 g.
    3) Composition 3
    Table 3:
    INCI Name Trade name Qty in% (Total = 100%) Function Dimethicone & Dimethicone / PEG10 / 15 Crosspolymer & Dipropylene glycol & tocopherol KSG-210 2 Emulsifying elastomeric silicone Lauryl PEG-9polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone KF-6038 2.5 Silicone emulsifier Pigment = mixture of iron oxide and titanium dioxide Diisostearyl malate crushing 19003 35%DS Salacos 222 24 Crushed pigment dispersed in ester oil Dimethicone KF-96A-10CS 27,775 Non-volatile silicone oil Ethylhexyl palmitate Palmitate ethyle 2 hexyle 9.425 Non-volatile ester oil Polyethylene Jeenate 3H 6 Wax Synthetic wax & cera camauba (copemicia cerifera (camauba) wax) Smart Wax 202 2 Wax 3.8 Mother of pearl Aqua (water) Demineralized Water 40 Water Polysorbate 60 Tween 60-LQ 0.5 Non-silicone emulsifier
    The procedure used for the preparation of composition 3 (table 3) above is the same as that described in Example 1.
    Composition 3 is subsequently poured into a Petri dish and placed for 24 h at h at 20 ° C. before carrying out the hardness measurement under the conditions described above.
    The hardness of composition 3 (table 3) is 80 +/- 2 g
    4) Composition 4
    Table 4:
    INCI Name Trade name Qty in% (Total = 100%) Function Dimethicone & Dimethicone / PEG10 / 15 Crosspolymer & Dipropylene glycol & tocopherol KSG-210 2 Emulsifying elastomeric silicone Lauryl PEG-9polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone KF-6038 2.5 Silicone emulsifier Pigment = mixture of iron oxide and titanium dioxide Diisostearyl malate crushing 19003 35%DS Salacos 222 24 Crushed pigment dispersed in ester oil Dimethicone KF-96A-10CS 26,775 Non-volatile silicone oil Ethylhexyl palmitate Palmitate ethyle 2 hexyle 9.425 Non-volatile ester oil Polyethylene Jeenate 3H 9 Wax 3.8 Mother of pearl Aqua (water) Demineralized Water 40 Water Polysorbate 60 Tween 60-LQ 0.5 Non-silicone emulsifier
    The procedure used for the preparation of composition 4 (table 4) above is the same as that described in Example 1.
    Composition 4 is subsequently poured into a petri dish and placed for 24 h at h at 20 ° C. before carrying out the hardness measurement under the conditions described above.
    The hardness of composition 4 (Table 4) is 112 +/- 4 g
    5) Composition 5
    Table 5:
    INCI Name Trade name Qty in% (Total = 100%) Function Dimethicone & Dimethicone / PEG10 / 15 Crosspolymer & Dipropylene glycol & tocopherol KSG-210 2 Emulsifying elastomeric silicone Lauryl PEG-9polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone KF-6038 2.5 Silicone emulsifier Pigment = mixture of iron oxide and titanium dioxide Diisostearyl malate24 Pigment ground and dispersed in ester oil Dimethicone KF-96A-10CS 27,775 Non-volatile silicone oil Ethylhexyl palmitate Palmitate ethyle 2 hexyle 9.425 Non-volatile ester oil Polyethylene Jeenate 3H 6 Wax Jojoba esters Floraesters 70 2 Wax 3.8 Mother of pearl Aqua (water) Demineralized Water 40 Water Polysorbate 60 Tween 60-LQ 0.5 Non-silicone emulsifier
    The procedure used for the preparation of composition 5 (table 5) above is the same as that described in Example 1 above, with the difference that the emulsification temperature of step 6 and the casting temperature of step 8 are lowered to a temperature between 70 ° C and 80 ° C thanks to the mixture of polyethylene wax "Jeenate 3H" and jojoba esters "Floraester 70".
    Composition 5 is subsequently poured into a snuffbox and placed for 24 to 48 hours at 20 ° C. before carrying out the hardness measurement under the conditions described above.
    The hardness of composition 5 (Table 5) is 86 +/- 5 g.
    Conclusions
    The particular choice of silicone emulsifiers, non-volatile silicone oils (and optionally other non-volatile oils, silicone elastomer emulsifiers), waxes used in the compositions of the invention makes it possible to obtain a particularly stable solid water-in-oil emulsion. , with a uniform appearance and good hardness (from 70 g to 150 g).
    The lip sticks from tables 1 to 5 above (compositions 1 to 5) were applied to the lips of a panel of 9 people.
    Each of these lipsticks have excellent sensorial properties, namely a feeling of comfort, freshness and melting when applied to the skin or the lips. They also exhibit ease of spreading at the time of application to the skin or the lips and a homogeneous result once the composition has been applied. Furthermore, the conservation of the lip sticks for a period of 3 months at a temperature of 45 ° C. has made it possible to observe that the stick has good stability over time, namely that it does not shrink with respect to its shape. initial, that it does not break at its base, that it does not age by drying or drying and that it does not present any phenomenon of exudation (namely the release of oil or water on the surface) .
    In addition, after 3 months at 45 ° C, these lipsticks retain excellent sensorial properties, namely a feeling of comfort, freshness and melting when applied to the skin or the lips. They also retain ease of spreading at the time of application to the skin or the lips and a homogeneous result once the composition has been applied.
    权利要求:
    Claims (15)
    [1" id="c-fr-0001]
    1. Cosmetic composition in the form of a solid water-in-oil emulsion characterized in that it comprises:
    - a silicone emulsifier,
    - at least one non-volatile silicone oil,
    a structuring agent for the oily phase comprising a wax and / or an oily gelling agent,
    - 30% to 50% water,
    - 0% to 4%, preferably 0% to 2%, and more preferably still 0% of a volatile silicone oil and / or of a volatile hydrocarbon oil, the percentages defined above being percentages by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
    [2" id="c-fr-0002]
    2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the silicone emulsifier is a siloxane polymer comprising:
    - a fatty side chain,
    - an oxyethylenated or oxypropylenated side chain and / or a polyethoxylated (= glycerylated) side chain, and optionally
    - a silicone side chain.
    [3" id="c-fr-0003]
    3. Composition according to claim 1 or claim 2, characterized in that the silicone emulsifier is chosen from the group comprising:
    - the compound of formula (I):
    in which w is an integer ranging from 1 to 1000, x ’is an integer ranging from 1 to 50, x, y and z independently represent an integer ranging from 1 to 100,
    - the compound of formula (II):
    (Π) silicone chain glyceryl chain in which xi is an integer ranging from 1 to 1000, wi is an integer ranging from 1 to 50, yi and zi
    5 independently represent one another an integer ranging from 1 to 100,
    - the compound of formula (III):
    1 Hr,
    Yes
    I
    CH r 'H .ZHj'Z. 41 (III), in which w 2 is an integer ranging from 1 to 1000, v 2 is an integer ranging from 1 to 50, x 2 , y 2 and z 2 independently represent an integer ranging from 1 to 100 ,
    10 and their mix s.
    [4" id="c-fr-0004]
    4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that it further comprises an emulsifying elastomeric silicone, namely a crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane, preferably with a polyhydroxylated chain.
    [5" id="c-fr-0005]
    5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the non-volatile silicone oil is chosen from the group comprising polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) (dimethicones: INCI name) containing at least 8 silicon atoms, polyalkylmethylsiloxanes in which the alkyl chain contains from 8 to 20 carbon atoms, alkyl dimethicones, vinyl methyl methicones, oils identified by the name INCI phenyl trimethicones and their mixtures.
    [6" id="c-fr-0006]
    6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it further comprises:
    a non-volatile ester oil, in particular chosen from the group comprising 2-ethyl-hexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, isooctyl palmitate, isocetyl palmitate, isodecyl palmitate, palmitate isostearyl, 2-octyl-decyl palmitate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isocetyl octanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl isononanoate, tridecyl isononanoate, hexyl laurate, 2hexyl-decyl laurate, isopropyl myristate, isocetyl myristate, isotridecyl myristate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, isopropyl isostearate, 2-octyl dodecyl stearate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-octyl dodecyl erucate, diisostearyl malate and mixtures thereof,
    - a non-volatile oil chosen from the group comprising hydrocarbon oils; synthetic (poly) esters and (poly) ethers, in particular (poly) esters of C6C20 acids and C6-C20 alcohols, advantageously branched, such as isononyl isononanoate; vegetable oils; branched and / or unsaturated fatty acids; branched and / or unsaturated fatty alcohols such as octyldodecanol; fluorosilicone oils; fluorinated oils; and their mixtures.
    [7" id="c-fr-0007]
    7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the structuring agent for the oily phase is:
    a polar wax, namely a wax comprising at least one heteroatom such as oxygen, nitrogen, silicon or phosphorus,
    - a nonpolar hydrocarbon wax, namely a wax comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms and not comprising heteroatoms such as oxygen, nitrogen, silicon or phosphorus,
    a silicone apolar wax, namely a wax comprising a silicon heteroatom, and / or,
    - an oily gelling agent chosen from the group comprising a silicone polymer; a cyclic vinyl dimethicone / dimethicone copolymer; a polyamide resin or a poly (ester-amide) resin; a copolymer of styrene and at least one olefin other than styrene; an N-acyl glutamic acid diamide; a dextrin ester; a sucroester and their mixtures.
    [8" id="c-fr-0008]
    8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the structuring agent for the oily phase is a wax chosen from the group comprising a polyethylene wax, alone or in combination with another polyethylene wax, a mixture of polyethylene wax and plant ester wax, a mixture of synthetic wax and carnauba wax, jojoba esters and their mixtures.
    [9" id="c-fr-0009]
    9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that it comprises:
    - 2% to 8%, preferably 3% to 5%, of the silicone emulsifier,
    - 20% to 50% of the non-volatile silicone oil,
    - 2% to 12%, preferably 6% to 10%, of structuring agent for the oily phase, the percentages defined above being percentages by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
    [10" id="c-fr-0010]
    10. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that:
    the volatile silicone oil is selected from the group consisting of hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, cyclotetradimethylsiloxane, cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, cyclohexadimethylsiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, hexylheptamethyltrisiloxane, octylheptamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, heptamethylhexyl trisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl trisiloxane and their mixtures,
    the volatile hydrocarbon-based oil is chosen from the group comprising a short-chain hydrocarbon-based oil, such as isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane or their mixtures; a volatile linear alkane with a C9-C17, C10-C14 hydrocarbon chain, such as a mixture of undecane and tridecane, marketed by BASF Care Creations under the name Cetiol® Ultimate, in Cl5-19, as marketed by Seppic under the name Emogreen L15, in C12-14, as marketed by Biosynthis under the name Vegelight 1214LC; and their mixtures.
    [11" id="c-fr-0011]
    11. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it further comprises:
    a non-silicone emulsifier, in particular chosen from the group comprising polymers of the polyoxyalkylenated glycol fatty acid ester type, such as those identified by the name INCI Polysorbate 60, Polysorbate 20, Polysorbate 85, and their mixtures,
    - a humectant chosen from the group comprising glycerol; glycols, such as propylene glycol, butylene glycol and hexylene glycol; sugar alcohols or sugar polyols, such as sorbitol, xylitol and maltitol; polymer polyols such as polydextrose; alpha-hydroxy acids such as lactic acid; hyaluronic acid; urea; L-pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA); and their mixtures,
    - a filler selected from the group comprising talc, mica, silica, kaolin, boron nitride, lauroyl lysine, sericite, cellulose beads, glass beads, starch, modified starch by octenylsuccinic anhydride, silicone resins such as polymethylsilsesquioxane available under the name Tospearl 2000B from Momentive Performance Materials, powders derived from silicone elastomers such as silicone elastomer coated with a silicone resin available under the name commercial KSP100 or KSP300 from ShinEtsu, and mixtures thereof
    - a coloring material chosen from the group comprising water-soluble dyes, liposoluble dyes, particles having the effect of coloring and / or opacifying the composition, such as pigments, nacres, lacquers (water-soluble dyes adsorbed on a support inert inorganic), and mixtures thereof, and / or
    - A preservative chosen from the group comprising phenoxyethanol, potassium sorbate, sodium dehydroacetate, chlorphenesin, parabens such as methylparaben or propylparaben, and their mixtures.
    [12" id="c-fr-0012]
    12. Composition according to claim 11, characterized in that it comprises:
    - 0% to 5% of non-silicone emulsifier, preferably 0.1% to 1%,
    - 0% to 10% of moisturizer, preferably 1% to 6%,
    - 0% to 25% of charge, preferably 2% to 10%,
    - 0% to 10% of coloring matter, preferably 2% to 6%,
    - 0% to 2% of preservative, preferably 0.1% to 1%, the percentages defined above being percentages by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
    [13" id="c-fr-0013]
    13. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that it has a hardness ranging from 70 g to 150 g (grams), preferably ranging from 80 g to 120 g, and even more preferably ranging from 80 g to 100 g, said hardness being determined by measuring the compression force measured at 20 ° C. using the texturometer sold under the name "TA-XT Plus Microstable System" by the company Swantech.
    [14" id="c-fr-0014]
    14. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, characterized in that it is in the form of a stick, preferably a makeup stick for the skin or the lips and / or a non-therapeutic care stick for the skin or lips.
    [15" id="c-fr-0015]
    15. Cosmetic method for making up and / or non-therapeutic care of the skin or the lips, characterized in that it consists in applying to the skin or the lips a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 14.
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    同族专利:
    公开号 | 公开日
    FR3062301B1|2020-03-13|
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    CN110225741A|2019-09-10|
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    EP3576713B1|2020-12-09|
    KR102300305B1|2021-09-08|
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    法律状态:
    2018-02-26| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 2 |
    2018-08-03| PLSC| Publication of the preliminary search report|Effective date: 20180803 |
    2019-02-20| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 3 |
    2020-02-25| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 4 |
    2021-02-25| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 5 |
    2021-12-16| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 6 |
    优先权:
    申请号 | 申请日 | 专利标题
    FR1750887A|FR3062301B1|2017-02-02|2017-02-02|SOLID WATER-IN-OIL COSMETIC EMULSION|
    FR1750887|2017-02-02|FR1750887A| FR3062301B1|2017-02-02|2017-02-02|SOLID WATER-IN-OIL COSMETIC EMULSION|
    PCT/FR2018/050237| WO2018142076A1|2017-02-02|2018-02-01|Solid water-in-oil cosmetic emulsion|
    JP2019541712A| JP2020514322A|2017-02-02|2018-02-01|Water-in-oil type cosmetic emulsion|
    US16/480,429| US20190388306A1|2017-02-02|2018-02-01|Solid water-in-oil cosmetic emulsion|
    EP18705446.5A| EP3576713B1|2017-02-02|2018-02-01|Solid water-in-oil cosmetic emulsion|
    KR1020197022917A| KR102300305B1|2017-02-02|2018-02-01|Solid water-in-oil cosmetic emulsion|
    CN201880008784.9A| CN110225741A|2017-02-02|2018-02-01|Solid water-in-oil cosmetic emulsions|
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