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    • 专利摘要:
    The present invention relates to a composition, especially for topical application, in the form of an oil-in-water nanoemulsion, comprising an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, comprising: at least one polar oil, at least one surfactant, at least one water-soluble organic solvent, the mass ratio between the amount of surfactant and the amount of polar oil being less than or equal to 1, and the mass ratio between the amount of polar oil and the amount of water-soluble organic solvent is less than 0.1.
    公开号:FR3061010A1
    申请号:FR1663336
    申请日:2016-12-23
    公开日:2018-06-29
    发明作者:Claire PELE；Arno Wahler
    申请人:LOreal SA；
    IPC主号:
    专利说明:

    Holder (s):
    L'OREAL Public limited company.
    O Extension request (s):
    (® Agent (s): LAVOIX.
    FR 3 061 010 - A1 (54) NANOEMULSIONS BASED ON POLAR OIL.
    (57) The present invention relates to a composition, in particular for topical application, in the form of an oil-in-water nanoemulsion, comprising an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, comprising:
    - at least one polar oil,
    - at least one surfactant,
    - at least one water-soluble organic solvent,
    the mass ratio between the quantity of surfactant and the quantity of polar oil being less than or equal to 1, and
    - The mass ratio between the amount of polar oil and the amount of water-soluble organic solvent is less than 0.1.
    Polar oil-based nanoemulsions
    The present invention relates to a composition for topical application, in particular cosmetic and / or dermatological, in the form of an oil-in-water nanoemulsion, obtained without energy supply, its preparation process and its use in particular for treatment, care, make-up and / or cleaning of the skin, integuments (hair, eyelashes, nails) and / or mucous membranes.
    For various reasons linked in particular to improved comfort of use (softness, emollience and others), current cosmetic or dermatological compositions are most often in the form of an emulsion of the oil-in-water type (O / W ), that is to say a support consisting of an aqueous dispersing continuous phase and an oily dispersed discontinuous phase. These O / W emulsions are more in demand than water-in-oil (W / O) emulsions, which consist of a continuous fatty dispersing phase and an aqueous dispersed discontinuous phase, because they provide the skin with application, a softer, less greasy and lighter feel than W / O emulsion systems.
    In addition, in cosmetics, dermatology and pharmacy, emulsions comprising globules (or droplets) of the small dispersed phase, also called nanoemulsions, are often sought after, whether:
    • for their texture: the compositions can be more or less viscous and range from the consistency of a lotion to that of a cream;
    • for their visual appearance which can vary from a transparent or opalescent composition to a white composition;
    • for their cosmetic feel, in particular promoting their speed of penetration;
    • for their wide possible positioning in terms of the market, such compositions satisfy consumers both in Europe, Japan and other countries.
    In the present application, the term “nanoemulsion” means an emulsion whose size of the globules of the dispersed phase is between 50 nm and 1 μm, preferably between 100 nm and 800 nm.
    In terms of technology, at present to obtain this type of O / W nanoemulsions, it is necessary to provide energy to the mixture, either significant mechanical energy in order to fragment the dispersed phase into fine globules, or thermal energy into passing through a phase change process with temperature, like the systems prepared by PIT technique "Phase Inversion Temperature". These systems are well known and allow today to have nanoemulsions.
    Nanoemulsions are described in the publications of Forgiarini, J. Esquena, C. Gonzalez and C. Solans, “Formation of Nano-emulsions by Low Energy Emulsification. Methods at Constant Temperature ", Langmuir, 2001, 17, 2076-2083H., And de Forgiarini, J. Esquena, C. Gonzàlez and C. Solans," Studies of the Relation Between Phase Behavior and Emulsification Methods with Nanoemulsion Formation ", Prog . Colloid Polym Sci., 2000, 115 (Trends in Colloid and Interface Science XIV), 36-39. These publications describe decane-in-water emulsions stabilized by a particular surfactant, laureth-4 (or Brij 30), and produced by adding water to a decane / Brij 30 mixture. The emulsions described in these documents are unstable, in particular on the microscopic level (diameter of drops), and therefore too unstable for an industrial application.
    Furthermore, the technique by PIT is, in principle, well known to those skilled in the art and it is notably described in the articles Phase Inversion Emusification, by Th Forster et al, published in Cosmetics & Toiletries, vol. 106, December 1991, pp 49-52, "Application of the phase-inversion-temperature method to the emulsification of cosmetics" by T. MITSUI et al, published in American Cosmetics and Perfumery, vol 87, December 1972, and in the documents WO-A-89/11907, DE-A-4318171, EP-A-815846 and EP-A-1,297,824.
    However, these techniques for obtaining nanoemulsions have the following disadvantages:
    • the high temperature of the PIT process induces constraints in terms of formulation. Thus, it is difficult to use this technique with molecules sensitive to heat and having low flash points, and the technique is therefore limited to molecules insensitive to heat and having high flash points. This restricts the type and number of usable raw materials, or else, if we want to use, for example, molecules having low flash points, it is necessary, depending on these raw materials, to adapt the operating mode, and obtaining these emulsions then becomes more complex and more expensive. Therefore, this process excludes or at least limits the use of volatile compounds such as volatile lipophilic compounds, in particular volatile oils such as volatile silicones, and certain active ingredients or heat-sensitive plant extracts;
    • high or very high pressure homogenizers, which make it possible to produce nanoemulsions by energy supply, are expensive and fragile materials, therefore generating significant costs for industrial applications.
    Furthermore, there are known in the prior art transparent microemulsions. Microemulsions are not strictly speaking emulsions, unlike nanoemulsions; these are transparent solutions of micelles swollen with oil, this oil being dissolved thanks to the joint presence of a large amount of surfactants and co-surfactants forming the micelles. The size of the swollen micelles is very small due to the small amount of oil they can dissolve. This very small size of the micelles is the cause of their transparency. However, unlike the nanoemulsions described above, microemulsions are formed spontaneously by mixing the constituents without adding mechanical energy other than simple magnetic stirring and regardless of the order of addition of the constituents. In addition, they are thermodynamically stable systems. The major drawbacks of microemulsions are related to their high proportion of surfactants compared to oil, leading to intolerance and resulting in a sticky feel when applied to the skin. Furthermore, the microemulsion state of the system is defined by the choice of the constituents and their relative proportions, as well as the temperature. These microemulsions are therefore not nanoemulsions and cannot overcome the drawbacks of the nanoemulsions described above.
    There therefore remains the need to produce stable O / W nanoemulsions, which are obtained with less expensive and less complex methods than those of the prior art, that is to say methods which do not require the addition of energy, whether this energy is mechanical or thermal, and therefore without passing through high temperatures or without material providing a lot of energy, these processes having no effect on the chemical stability of the compounds constituting the composition.
    There is also a need for easily prepared O / W nanoemulsions.
    There is also a need for O / W nanoemulsions comprising a small amount of surfactant.
    The Applicant has surprisingly found the possibility of producing stable nanoemulsions based on polar oil, prepared without energy input and entirely at room temperature. Such nanoemulsions are easy to prepare. They contain a small amount of surfactant. In addition, they are stable over time and in temperature, without any destabilization or change in appearance or an increase in the size of the oil droplets of the nanoemulsion occurring, in particular thanks to a surfactant / polar oil ratio. specific.
    The subject of the present invention is therefore a composition, in particular for topical application, in the form of an oil-in-water nanoemulsion, comprising an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, comprising:
    - at least one polar oil,
    - at least one surfactant,
    - at least one water-soluble organic solvent,
    - the mass ratio between the amount of surfactant and the amount of polar oil is less than or equal to 1, and
    - the mass ratio between the amount of polar oil and the amount of water-soluble organic solvent is less than 0.1.
    Such a composition in particular has oily phase globules having an average diameter ranging from 50 nm to 1 μm, preferably from 100 nm to 800 nm.
    The term “topical application” is understood here to mean an external application to keratin materials, such as the skin, scalp, eyelashes, eyebrows, nails, hair and / or mucous membranes. The composition being intended for topical application, it comprises a physiologically acceptable medium. The term “physiologically acceptable medium” means a medium compatible with the skin, the lips, the scalp, the eyelashes, the eyes, the nails and / or the hair. The composition may especially constitute a cosmetic or dermatological composition.
    According to an essential characteristic of the compositions in accordance with the present invention, the average diameter of the globules (or droplets) of oily phase dispersed in the dispersing aqueous phase ranges from 50 nm to 1 μm, preferably from 100 nm to 800 nm, this average diameter being a number average diameter, measured by quasi-elastic light scattering, for example by the Nanosizer ZSP device from Malvern. The wavelength used is 632.8 nm. The values which are indicated in the device are: the viscosity value of pure water, that is approximately 0.887 centipoise, as well as the refractive index of the oil which is 1.45, and the refractive index water which is 1.33. The temperature of the composition sample is around 25 ° C.
    Depending on the size of the oily phase globules, the visual appearance of the composition ranges from transparency to a milky appearance, preferably the composition according to the invention has an opalescent appearance.
    The nanoemulsions according to the invention have the advantage of being able to be prepared at room temperature and therefore by a process which does not degrade the heat-sensitive constituents of the composition (especially active), which, moreover, is inexpensive, not very complex and without constrained since no energy is necessary to obtain this system. The nanoemulsions according to the invention also have the advantage of being perfectly stable over time and in temperature since no creaming (that is to say rise of the oil globules), no sedimentation (that is to say - say collection of oil globules at the bottom of the container), and no phase shift (that is to say separation of the aqueous and oily phases) are observed over time, in particular for 1 month, preferably for 2 months and at different storage temperatures (25 ° C and 45 ° C).
    Polar oil
    The composition according to the invention comprises at least one polar oil.
    The term “oil” means any fatty substance in liquid form at room temperature (25 ° C) and at atmospheric pressure.
    Among the oils which can be used in the present invention, there may be mentioned volatile or non-volatile oils, these oils can be hydrocarbon oils, in particular of animal or vegetable origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, fluorinated oils, or their mixtures.
    For the purposes of the present invention, the term "silicone oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.
    The term “hydrocarbon-based oil” means an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms and possibly oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms.
    By “polar oil”, within the meaning of the present invention, is meant an oil whose solubility parameter a a at 25 ° C is different from 0 (J / crrf) 72 . In particular, by “polar oil” is meant an oil whose chemical structure is formed essentially, or even made up, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and comprising at least one highly electronegative heteroatom such as an oxygen atom , nitrogen, silicon or phosphorus. The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters in the HANSEN three-dimensional solubility space are described in the article by CM HANSEN: "The three dimensionnai solubility parameters" J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967).
    According to this Hansen space:
    - Ôd characterizes the dispersion forces of LONDON resulting from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular shocks;
    - δ ρ characterizes the DEBYE interaction forces between permanent dipoles as well as the KEESOM interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles;
    - ô h characterizes the specific interaction forces (such as hydrogen bonds, acid / base, donor / acceptor, etc.);
    - ô a is determined by the equation: ô a = (δ ρ 2 + ô h 2 ) / 2 .
    The parameters δ ρ , ô h , ô D and ô a are expressed in (J / cm 3 ) 1/2 .
    Preferably, the polar oils used according to the present invention has an α greater than 3.
    When the polar oil is an essential oil, to determine the value of ô a , the majority compound by weight included in the essential oil will be taken. Thus, the O determined from the majority compound by weight of the essential oil will be higher than 3.
    Non-volatile polar oils
    For the purposes of the present invention, the term "non-volatile oil" means an oil having a vapor pressure of less than 0.13 Pa (0.01 mm Hg).
    The non-volatile oils can in particular be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils, where appropriate fluorinated, and / or non-volatile silicone oils.
    As non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil suitable for implementing the invention, there may be mentioned in particular:
    - hydrocarbon oils of animal origin,
    - hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin such as phytostearyl esters, such as phytostearyl oleate, physostearyl isostearate and lauroyl / octyldodecyl / phytostearyl glutanate, for example sold under the name ELDEW PS203 by AJINOMOTO, triglycerides consisting of fatty acid and glycerol esters, the fatty acids of which can have various chain lengths from C 4 to C24, the latter possibly being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils are in particular heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, the oils of wheat germ, sunflower, grapeseed, sesame, corn, apricot, castor, camelina, shea, avocado, olive, soy, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cotton, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, squash, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, bancoulier, passionflower, muscat rose; shea butter; or the triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by the company STEARINERIES DUBOIS or those sold under the names MIGLYOL 810®, 812® and 818® by the company DYNAMIT NOBEL, the refined vegetable perhydrosqualene marketed under the name fitoderm by the company Cognis;
    - synthetic esters such as oils of formula RTCOOR2 in which Rt represents a linear or branched fatty acid chain comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R 2 represents a hydrocarbon chain in particular branched containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms to provided that Ri + R 2 is> 10. The esters can in particular be chosen from esters, in particular fatty acid such as for example:
    • cetostearyl octanoate, esters of isopropyl alcohol and of fatty acid C8-C18, preferably C12-C16 such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate; ethyl palmitate, 2-ethyl-hexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate or isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactact, octyl hydroxystearate, diisopropyl adipate, heptanoates, and in particular isostearyl heptanoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, octanoate of tridecyl, 4-diheptanoate and ethyl palmitate 2-hexyl, alkyl benzoate, polyethylene glycol diheptanoate, dietyl 2-propylene glycol hexanoate and their mixtures, the benzoates of C 12 alcohols at C 15 , hexyl laurate, esters of neopentanoic acid such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, octyldocecyl neopentanoate, isononanoic acid esters such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, isononanoat e of octyl, hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, di-isostearyl malate;
    • polyol esters, and pentaetrythritol esters, such as tetrahydroxystearate / dipentaerythritol tetraisostearate;
    • the esters of dimer diols and dimer diacids such as Lusplan DD-DA5® and Lusplan DD-DA7®, sold by the company NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL and described in application FR 03 02809;
    - fatty alcohols liquid at room temperature with branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 22 carbon atoms, even better from 18 to 20 carbon atoms, such as 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, and 2-undecylpentadecanol;
    - higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and their mixtures;
    - di-alkyl carbonates, the 2 alkyl chains possibly being identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name Cetiol CC®, by Cognis;
    - the diesters of C2-C16 dicarboxylic acid, preferably of C8-C12, and of C1-C4 monoalcohol, preferably of C3-C4 branched monoalcohol. Preferably the diester of sebacic acid and isopropyl alcohol such as diisopropyl sebacate sold under the name DUB DIS by the company STEARINERIES DUBOIS;
    - non-volatile silicone oils, such as, for example, non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising pendant alkyl or alkoxy groups and / or at the ends of the silicone chain, groups each having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, silicones phenylated like phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, dimethicones or phenyltrimethicone or lower viscosities,
    - and their mixtures.
    Volatile polar oils
    For the purposes of the present invention, the term "volatile oil" means an oil (or non-aqueous medium) capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than an hour, at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure. Volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil, liquid at room temperature, having in particular a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10 -3 to 300 mm Hg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg ).
    As volatile oils, volatile silicones can also be used, such as, for example, volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity <8 centistokes (8 x 10 -6 m 2 / s), and in particular having from 2 to 10 silicon atoms, and in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oil which can be used in the invention, mention may be made in particular of dimethicones of viscosity 5 and 6 cSt, octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl trisiloxane, hex disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
    It is also possible to use volatile fluorinated oils such as nonafluoromethoxybutane or perfluoromethylcyclopentane, and mixtures thereof.
    It is also possible to use a mixture of the oils mentioned above.
    Preferably, the volatile polar oil is an essential oil. Essential oils are distinguished from vegetable oils by the fact that they cannot be broken down by saponification into glycerol and fatty acid soap.
    Preferably, when the polar oil is an essential oil, the latter can be used pure, and has better bioavailability. Indeed, in general, essential oils are previously diluted in one or more fatty substances before their use. The nanoemulsion according to the invention allows these essential oils to be used without prior dilution.
    According to the definition given in the international standard ISO 9235 and adopted by the European Pharmacopoeia Commission, an essential oil is a product generally of complex composition, obtained from a botanically defined vegetable raw material, either by steam water, either by dry distillation, or by extraction using liquid or gaseous solvents, or by an appropriate mechanical process without heating (cold expression). The essential oil is most often separated from the aqueous phase by a physical process which does not cause a significant change in the composition. These essential oils can also be prepared by synthesis.
    The essential oil used according to the invention can be obtained from any plant material obtained from the whole plant or from any part of said plant, for example the leaves, stems, flowers, petals, seeds, fruits. , buds, roots, twigs of plants and / or whole plants.
    The essential oil used according to the invention can be prepared according to the techniques mentioned above and will preferably be obtained according to the conventional technique of steam training.
    Among the essential oils which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of those obtained from plants belonging to the following botanical families:
    Abietaceous or Pinaceae: conifers; Amaryllidaceae; Anacardiaceae; Anonaceae: ylang; Apiaceae (for example umbelliferae): dill, angenic, coriander, sea bass, carrot, parsley; Araceae; Aristolochiaceae; Asteraceae: Achilea, sagebrush, chamomile, helichrysum; Betulaceae; Brassicaceae; Burseraceae incense; Caryophyllaceae; Canellaceae; Cesalpiniaceae: copaïfera (copahu); Chenopodaceae; Cistaceae: cistus; Cyperaceae; Dipterocarpaceae; Ericaceae: wintergreen (wintergreen); Euphorbiaceae; Fabaceae; Geraniaceae: geranium; Guttifera; Witch hazel; Hernandiaceae; Hypericaceae: St. John's Wort; Iridaceae; Juglandaceae; Lamiaceae: thyme, oregano, monard, savory, basil, marjoram, mints, patchouli, lavender, sage, catnip, rosemary, hyssop, lemon balm; Lauraceae: ravensara, laurel, rosewood, cinnamon, litsea; Liliaceae: garlic; Magnoliaceae: magnolia; Malvaceae; Meliaceae; Monimiaceae; Moraceae: hemp, hops; Myricaceae; Mysristicaceae: nutmeg; Myrtaceae: eucalyptus, tea tree, niaouli, cajeput, backousia, cloves, myrtle; Oleaceae; Piperaceae: pepper; Pittosporaceae; Poaceae: lemongrass, lemongrass, vetiver; Polygonaceae; Ranunculaceae; Rosaceae: roses; Rubiaceae; Rutaceae: all citrus; Salicaceae; Santalaceae: sandalwood; Saxifragaceae; Schisandraceae; Styracaceae: benzoin; Thymelaceae: agarwood; Tilliaceae; Valerianaceae: valerian, nard; Verbenaceae: lantana, verbena; Purplish; Zingiberaceae: galangal, turmeric, cardamom, ginger; or Zygophyllaceae.
    We can also mention the essential oils extracted from flowers (lily, lavender, rose, jasmine, Ylang-Ylang, neroli), stems and leaves (patchouli, geranium, petit grain), fruit (coriander, anise, cumin, juniper), fruit peels (bergamot, lemon, orange), roots (angelica, celery, cardamom, iris, acore, ginger), wood (pine wood, sandalwood, guaiac, pink cedar, camphor), d herbs and grasses (tarragon, rosemary, basil, lemon grass, sage, thyme), needles and branches (spruce, fir, pine, dwarf pine), resins and balms (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh , olibanum, opopanax).
    The essential oil preferentially used in the nanoemulsions of the invention is chosen from mint essential oil, in particular peppermint, geranium essential oil, lemongrass essential oil, cedar essential oil , essential oil of sweet orange, essential oil of green oregano, essential oil of lemongrass, essential oil of lemon catnip, essential oil of rosemary, essential oil of mountain savory, essential oil of savory lemon, essential oil of laser siler (Apiaceae, seeds or leaf), essential oil of marjoram, essential oil of buplèvre (Asteraceae), essential oil of yarrow deodorant, l thyme essential oil, lemon balm essential oil, lemon essential oil, eucalyptus essential oil, in particular radiata or globulus, green or red mandarin essential oil, clove essential oil , essential oil of cann her and their mixtures. Preferably, it is chosen from mint essential oil, in particular peppermint, geranium essential oil, lemongrass essential oil, green oregano essential oil, lemongrass essential oil, l essential oil of lemon catnip, essential oil of rosemary, essential oil of savory mountain, essential oil of savory lemon, essential oil of thyme, essential oil of lemon balm, essential oil of cloves and their mixtures.
    Geranium essential oil
    According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises geranium essential oil.
    Geranium is a herbaceous plant belonging to the Geraniaceae family.
    Geranium essential oil is mainly available in 2 varieties, namely Pelargonium roseum asperum CV Bourbon and Pelargonium roseum asperum CV North Africa (Egypt).
    Their INCI name is identical, namely Pelargonium graveolens. Thus, we also speak of pelargonium essential oil. In the present text, the expressions “geranium essential oil” and “pelargonium essential oil” are used without distinction of meaning.
    Geranium essential oil consists essentially of the combination of 3 monoterpenols, namely citronellol (18 to 32%), geraniol (8 to 20%) and linalool (1.8 to 11%), as well as corresponding terpene esters.
    Geranium essential oil is prepared by conventional distillation by steam distillation from the leaves and stems of geranium.
    Steam training corresponds to the vaporization, in the presence of water vapor, of a substance little miscible with water. The raw material is put in the presence of boiled water or water vapor in a still. The water vapor entrains the essential oil vapor which is condensed in the refrigerant to be recovered in the liquid phase in a Florentine vase (or essencier) where the essential oil is separated from the water by decantation. We call "aromatic water" or "hydrosol" or "floral distilled water", the aqueous distillate which remains in the steam entrainment, once the essential oil has been separated.
    By way of example of geranium essential oil according to the present invention, mention may be made of that sold by Elixens under the name PELARGONIUM GRAVEOLENS FLOWER OIL®.
    Lemongrass essential oil
    According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises lemongrass essential oil.
    Lemongrass is a tall grass, native to India and Southeast Asia that can reach 1.50 meters in height. It consists of narrow, lanceolate leaves with peduncles resembling branches. Its scent, reminiscent of the lemon, is at the origin of the name of the plant. This tropical plant, native to India and Sri Lanka, also grows in Africa, South America, Central America and Madagascar. Its essential oil is obtained by distillation of the chopped leaves which are harvested several times a year.
    This distillation is carried out without the addition of water or water vapor in a closed enclosure designed so that the liquid is recovered in its lower part.
    By way of example of lemongrass essential oil according to the present invention, mention may be made of that sold by Elixens under the name CYMBOPOGON FLEXUOSUS OIL®.
    Sweet orange essential oil
    According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises essential oil of sweet orange.
    Orange is the fruit of the orange tree (Citrus sinensis), which belongs to the Rutaceae family. The sweet orange essential oil is preferably obtained by expression (pressing and scraping) of the orange peels. The sweet orange essential oil has the INCI name: CITRUS AURANTIUM DULCIS PEEL OIL.
    As a sweet orange essential oil, mention may be made of the product CITRUS AURANTIUM DULCIS PEEL OIL sold by the company ELIXENS.
    This method of production is generally only applied to citrus fruits (Citrus spp.) By mechanical processes at room temperature. The principle of the method is as follows: the zest is dilated and the contents of the secretory pockets which have been broken are recovered by a physical process. The conventional method consists in exerting an abrasive action on the entire surface of the fruit under a stream of water. After elimination of solid waste, the essential oil is separated from the aqueous phase by centrifugation. Most industrial facilities actually allow the simultaneous or sequential recovery of fruit juices and essential oil.
    Essential oil of green oregano
    According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises essential oil of green oregano.
    The essential oil of Green Oregano, Origanum heracleoticum L., is extracted from the flowering aerial parts and consists mainly of Phenols: carvacrol, thymol and Monoterpenes: para-cymene and gamma-terpinene.
    This essential oil is recommended for the treatment of dandruff conditions. It is anti-infectious with a very broad spectrum of action: very powerful antibacterial, antiviral, antifungal and antiparasitic. It provides a general tonic effect and also has immunostimulatory, but also aperitif and digestive properties.
    As an example of an essential oil of green oregano according to the present invention, mention may be made of that sold by Elixens under the name ORIGANUM HERACLEOTICUM FLOWER OIL®.
    Cedarwood essential oil
    According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises cedar essential oil.
    Cedar is a conifer (Cedrus) from the Pinaceae family. Cedarwood essential oil is preferably obtained by steam training, a method explained above. Cedar essential oil has the INCI name: CEDRUS ATLANTICA WOOD OIL.
    As an example of cedar essential oil according to the present invention, mention may be made of that sold by Elixens under the name CEDRUS ATLANTICA WOOD OIL®
    Lemon catnip essential oil
    According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises essential oil of lemon catnip (Nepeta cataria L. citriodora BECK). Such an essential oil suitable for the invention can be obtained by extraction by steam distillation from flowering tops. In particular, an essential oil of
    Lemon catnip mainly comprises a mixture of monoterpénols, monoterpénals and terpènes.
    Rosemary essential oil
    According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises rosemary essential oil.
    An essential oil of Rosemary (Rosmarinum Officinalis Chemotype Cineole or Rosmarinum Officinalis ‘pyramidalis) suitable for the invention can be obtained by extraction by steam distillation from the leaves.
    An essential oil of Rosemary type North Africa includes, mainly, a mixture of terpene oxides, monoterpénones, monoterpènes, monoterpénols, sesquiterpènes, terpénés esters, as well as traces of verbénone, terpinolène, γ-terpinene , linalool, and para-cymene.
    Mountain savory essential oil
    According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises essential oil of mountain savory.
    An essential oil of mountain savory (Satureja montana L., Satureja montana L. ssp montana) suitable for the invention can be obtained by extraction of the plant and the flowers by steam distillation. An essential oil of Mountain Savory includes, mainly, a mixture of phenols, monoterpenes, sesquiterpenes, terpene oxides.
    Lemon savory essential oil
    According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises essential oil of lemony savory.
    A lemon savory oil (Satureja montana L. ssp. Variegata, more particularly Satureja montana L. var. Citrata, Satureja montana L. var. Citriodora) suitable for the invention can be obtained by extraction from the aerial parts of the plant by steam distillation. A lemon savory essential oil mainly comprises a mixture of terpene alcohols and sesquiterpenes, in particular a mixture of geraniol and trans-p-caryophyllene.
    Thyme essential oil
    According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises thyme essential oil.
    An essential oil of thyme (Thymus vulgaris CT thymol) suitable for the invention can be obtained by steam distillation of the flowering tops of the plant. In particular, an essential oil of thyme with thymol mainly comprises phenols (thymol and carvacrol) and alcohols (terpinene and borneol).
    Lemon balm essential oil
    According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises lemon balm essential oil.
    An essential oil of lemon balm (Métissa officinalis L.) suitable for the invention can be obtained by extraction of the aerial parts by steam distillation. The aerial parts are preferably harvested from June to September. In particular, an essential oil of lemon balm mainly comprises a mixture of aldehydes, sesquiterpenes, monoterpenes, terpene esters, alcohols, and non-volatile compounds.
    Clove essential oil
    According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises clove essential oil.
    An essential oil of Clove (Eugenia caryophyllus or E. aromatica Syzygium aromaticum) suitable for the invention can be obtained by extraction by steam distillation from the Nail (flower bud). In particular, an essential oil of Clove contains, mainly, a mixture of phenol, sesquiterpenes and esters.
    Cinnamon essential oil
    According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises cinnamon essential oil.
    A cinnamon essential oil (Cinnamomum cassia) suitable for the invention can be obtained by steam distillation of the bark of the tree. In particular, a cinnamon essential oil mainly comprises an aromatic aldehyde, cinnamaldehyde as well as phenols such as chavicol and isoeugenol.
    Lemon essential oil
    According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises lemon essential oil.
    An essential oil of lemon (Citrus limonum L.) is preferably obtained by expression (pressing and scraping) of lemon zest.
    Eucalyptus essential oil
    According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises essential oil of eucalyptus, preferably radiata or globulus.
    An essential oil of eucalyptus (Eucalyptus radiata LABILL) suitable for the invention can be obtained by steam distillation of the leaves of the tree.
    Green or red tangerine essential oil
    According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises green or red mandarin essential oil.
    An essential oil of green tangerine (Citrus reticulata blanco) is preferably obtained by expression (pressing and scraping) of tangerine zest
    Mint essential oil
    According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises essential oil of mint, in particular peppermint.
    An essential oil of peppermint (Mentha piperita) is preferably obtained by extracting the aerial parts (leaves and flowers). It mainly includes menthol and menthone.
    By way of example of an essential oil of peppermint according to the present invention, mention may be made of that sold by ELIXENS under the name "essential oil of organic peppermint".
    Lemongrass essential oil
    According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises essential oil of lemongrass.
    An essential oil of lemongrass (Cymbopogon flexuosus) is preferably obtained by distilling the leaves.
    As an example of lemongrass essential oil according to the present invention, mention may be made of that marketed by ELIXENS under the name "organic lemongrass essential oil".
    Preferably, the polar oil is present in the emulsion according to the invention in an amount between 0.001 and 10%, preferably between 0.01 and 7%, more preferably between 0.09 and 2% by weight relative to the total weight of emulsion.
    Preferably, the polar oil consists only of essential oil (s).
    Surfactant
    The nanoemulsion according to the invention contains at least one surfactant, preferably in small quantities.
    By surfactant is meant in the sense of the present invention any compound reducing the surface tension of a liquid and in particular water at 25 ° C., the chemical structure of which does not involve a polymerization reaction, or does not involve than the only polymerization of an alkylene oxide and / or glycidol. The surfactants can be linear or branched.
    This surfactant can be anionic, nonionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic or cationic. It is generally introduced into the aqueous phase.
    The surfactant is preferably present in an amount less than 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
    The surfactant can be present in an amount ranging from 0.001 to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 0.5% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
    Anionic surfactant
    The term “anionic surfactant” means a surfactant comprising only anionic groups as ionic or ionizable groups. These anionic groups are preferably chosen from the groups -C (O) OH, -C (O) O-, -SO3H, -S (O) 2O-, -OS (O) 2OH, -OS (O) 2O- , -P (O) OH2, - P (O) 2O-, -P (O) O2-, -P (OH) 2, = P (O) OH, -P (OH) O-, = P (O ) O-, = POH, = PO-, the anionic parts comprising a cationic counter ion such as an alkali metal, an alkaline earth metal, or an ammonium.
    Examples of anionic surfactants which can be used in the composition according to the invention include alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamidoethersulfates, alkylarylpolyethersulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates , alpha-olefinsulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, acylisethionates and acylisethionates and nacyl esters polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, acyllactylates, salts of D-galactosideuronic acids, salts of alkyl ether-carboxylic acids, salts of alkyl aryl ether-carboxylic acids, salts of alkyl amidoether-carboxylic acids, and the corresponding non-salified forms of all these compounds, the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds daring containing from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group denoting a phenyl group.
    These compounds can be oxyethylenated and then preferably contain from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.
    The salts of C6-C24 alkyl monoesters and of polyglycosidepolycarboxylic acids can be chosen from C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates of C6-C24 alkyl.
    When the anionic surfactant (s) are in the form of a salt, it (s) may (may) be chosen from the alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably sodium, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts or alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salts.
    By way of example of amino alcohol salts, mention may be made in particular of the salts of mono-, di- and triethanolamine, the salts of mono-, di- or triisopropanolamine, the salts of 2-amino-2-methyl-1- propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl1-1,3-propanediol and tris (hydroxy-methyl) amino methane.
    The alkali or alkaline earth metal salts are preferably used and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts.
    Among the anionic surfactants mentioned, it is preferred to use alkyl (C6-C24) sulfates, alkyl (C6-C24) ethersulfates comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide units, in particular in the form of alkali metal, ammonium salts , amino alcohols, and alkaline earth metals, or a mixture of these compounds.
    In particular, it is preferred to use alkyl (C12-C20) sulfates, alkyl (C12C20) ethersulfates comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units, in particular in the form of alkali metal, ammonium, amino alcohol salts, and of alkaline earth metals, or a mixture of these compounds. More preferably, it is preferred to use sodium lauryl ether sulfate with 2.2 moles of ethylene oxide.
    Amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant
    The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant (s), which can be used in the present invention, can in particular be derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, optionally quaternized, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms , said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group. Mention may in particular be made of the (C8-C20) alkyl betaines, the sulfobetaines, the (C8-C20) alkyl amidoalkyl (C3-C8) betaines and the (C8-C20) -amidalkyl (C6-C8) sulfobetaines alkyls.
    Among the derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, optionally quaternized which can be used, as defined above, mention may also be made of the following compounds of respective structures (A1) and (A2): Ra-C (O) -NH-CH2 -CH2-N + (Rb) (Rc) -CH2C (O) O-, M +, X- (A1)
    Formula (A1) in which:
    - Ra represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from a RaCOOH acid, preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group;
    - Rb represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group; and
    - Rc represents a carboxymethyl group;
    M + represents a cationic counter ion derived from an alkaline, alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine, and
    - X-, represents an organic or inorganic anionic counter ion, such as that chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C1-C4) alkyl, (C1-C4) alkyl or (C1-C4) alkyl (aryl) -sulfonates, in particular methylsulfate and ethylsulfate; or else M + and X- are absent;
    Ra'-C (O) -NH-CH2-CH2-N (B) (B ') (A2)
    Formula (A2) in which:
    - B represents the group -CH2-CH2-O-X ';
    - B 'represents the group - (CH2) zY', with z = 1 or 2;
    - X 'represents the group -CH2-C (O) OH, -CH2-C (O) OZ', -CH2-CH2- C (O) 0H, -CH2-CH2-C (O) OZ ', or a hydrogen atom;
    - Y 'represents the group -C (O) OH, -C (O) OZ', -CH2-CH (OH) -SO3H or the group -CH2-CH (OH) -SO3-Z ';
    - Z 'represents a cationic counter ion from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion from an organic amine;
    - Ra 'represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of a Ra'-C (O) OH acid preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil, an alkyl group, in particular C17 and its iso form, an unsaturated C17 group.
    These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, capryl disodium propopropate lauroamphodipropionic, cocoamphodipropionic acid.
    By way of example, mention may be made of cocoamphodiacetate sold by the company RHODIA under the trade name MIRANOL® C2M concentrate.
    Among the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants mentioned above, use is preferably made of alkyl (C8-C20) betaines such as cocobetaine, alkyl (C8-C20) amidoalkyl (C3-C8) betaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine, and their mixtures. More preferably, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant (s) are chosen from cocamidopropylbetaine and cocobetaine.
    Cationic surfactant
    The cationic surfactant (s) which can be used in the composition according to the invention comprise, for example, the primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amine salts, optionally polyoxyalkylenated, the quaternary ammonium salts, and their mixtures.
    Mention may in particular be made, as quaternary ammonium salts, for example:
    - those corresponding to the following general formula (A3):
    X (A3)
    Formula (A3) in which:
    - R8 to R11, identical or different, represent an aliphatic group, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, it being understood that at least one of the groups R8 to R11 comprises from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms; and
    - X- represents an organic or inorganic anionic counter ion, such as that chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C1-C4) sulfates, alkyl (C1-C4) -or alkyl (C1-C4) aryl- sulfonates, in particular methylsulfate and ethylsulfate.
    The aliphatic groups from R8 to R11 may also contain heteroatoms such as in particular oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens.
    The aliphatic groups from R8 to R11 are for example chosen from C1-C30 alkyl, C1-C30 alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene (C2-C6), C1-C30 alkylamide, (C12-C22) amidoalkyl (C2-C6) alkyl ), (C12-C22) alkyl acetate, and C1-C30 hydroxyalkyl, X- is an anionic counter ion chosen from halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C1-C4) sulfates, (C1-C4) alkyls - or (C1-C4) alkyl aryl sulfonates.
    Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (A3), tetraalkylammonium chlorides are preferred on the one hand, such as, for example, dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group contains approximately from 12 to 22 atoms of carbon, in particular behenyl trimethylammonium chlorides, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, benzyldimethylstearylammonium, or on the other hand, distearoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulphate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammethylethylammethylethylammoylethylethylammoyl palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride or stearamidopropyldimethyl- (myristyl acetate) -ammonium chloride marketed under the name CERAPHYL® 70 by the company VAN DYK;
    - the quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, such as for example those of formula (A4) below:
    (A4)
    Formula (A4) in which:
    - R12 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids;
    - R13 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms;
    - R14 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group;
    - R15 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group;
    - X- represents an organic or inorganic anionic counter ion, such as that chosen from halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl (C1-C4) sulfates, alkyl (C1-C4) - or alkyl (C1-C4) aryl- sulfonates.
    Preferably, R12 and R13 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups comprising from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R14 denotes a methyl group, R15 denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is for example marketed under the name REWOQUAT® W 75 by the company REWO;
    - the quaternary di- or triammonium salts in particular of formula (A5) below:
    2X (A5)
    Formula (A5) in which:
    - R16 denotes an alkyl group comprising approximately from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally hydroxyl and / or interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms;
    - R17 is chosen from hydrogen, an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group - (CH2) 3-N + (R16a) (R17a) (R18a), X-;
    - R16a, R17a, R18a, R18, R19, R20 and R21, identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen and an alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; and
    - X-, identical or different, represent an organic or inorganic anionic counter ion, such as that chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C1-C4) alkyl sulfates, (C1-C4) alkyl - or (C1) alkyl - C4) aryl sulfonates, in particular methylsulfate and ethylsulfate.
    Such compounds are for example Finquat CT-P offered by the company FINETEX (Quaternium 89), Finquat CT offered by the company FINETEX (Quaternium 75); or
    - quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions, such as in particular chloride or methyl sulphate, of diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, of diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, of monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethyl methylammonium, of triacyloxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyl and ethyl hydroxyethyl. The acyl groups preferably have 14 to 18 carbon atoms and more particularly come from a vegetable oil such as palm or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these can be the same or different. These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine optionally oxyalkylenated on fatty acids or on mixtures of fatty acids of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification is followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl, a dialkyl sulphate, preferably methyl or ethyl, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl paratoluenesulfonate, chlorohydrin, glycol or glycerol. Such compounds are for example sold under the names DEHYQUART® by the company HENKEL, STEPANQUAT® by the company STEPAN, NOXAMIUM® by the company CECA, REWOQUAT® WE 18 by the company REWO-WITCO.
    Among the cationic surfactants which may be present in the composition according to the invention, it is more particularly preferred to choose the cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium, dipalmitoylethyl-hydroxyethylmethylammonium salts, and their mixtures, and more particularly behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride , dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.
    Nonionic surfactant
    Preferably, the surfactant present in the composition according to the invention is nonionic.
    Preferably, it comprises a fatty chain having less than 18 carbon atoms. Preferably, it is liquid at room temperature.
    Among the nonionic surfactants, mention may in particular be made of polyol and fatty acid esters with saturated or unsaturated chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and better still from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives, c that is to say comprising oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated units, such as the glyceryl esters of C8-C24 fatty acid, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; polyethylene glycol and C8-C24 fatty acid esters, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; esters of sorbitol and of C8-C24 fatty acid, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; esters of sugar (sucrose, glucose, alkylglucose) and of C8-C24 fatty acid, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; fatty alcohol ethers; sugar and fatty alcohol ethers C8-C24, and mixtures thereof. As glyceryl ester of fatty acid, there may be mentioned in particular glyceryl stearate (mono-, di- and or glyceryl tri-stearate) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate) or glyceryl ricinoleate, and mixtures thereof.
    As polyethylene glycol and fatty acid esters, mention may in particular be made of polyethylene glycol stearate (polyethylene glycol mono-, di- and / or tri-stearate), and more especially polyethylene glycol 50 OE monostearate (CTFA name). : PEG-50 stearate), polyethylene glycol 100 OE monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-100 stearate and mixtures thereof.
    Preferably, the nonionic surfactant is an alkylpolyglucoside.
    The term “alkylpolyglycoside” means an alkylmonooside (degree of polymerization 1) or alkylpolyoside (degree of polymerization greater than 1).
    The alkylpolyglycosides can be used alone or in the form of mixtures of several alkylpolyglycosides.
    They generally respond to the following structure:
    R (0) (G) 'in which the radical R is a linear or branched C6-C30 alkyl radical preferably C12-C22, G is a saccharide residue and x varies from 1 to 5, preferably 1.05 2.5 and more preferably 1.1 to 2.
    The saccharide residue can be chosen from glucose, dextrose, sucrose, fructose, galactose, maltose, maltotriose, lactose, cellobiose, mannose, ribose, dextran, talose, allose, xylose, levoglucane, cellulose or starch. More preferably, the saccharide residue denotes glucose.
    It should also be noted that each unit of the polysaccharide part of the alkylpolyglycoside can be in isomeric form a or β, in L or D form and the configuration of the saccharide residue can be of the furanoside or pyranoside type.
    It is of course possible to use mixtures of alkylpolyosides, which may differ from each other by the nature of the alkyl unit carried and / or the nature of the carrier polysaccharide chain.
    In particular, mention may be made of alkylpolyglucosides containing an alkyl group comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and containing a glucoside group preferably comprising 1.2 to 3 saccharide units. Mention may be made, for example, of decylglucoside such as alkyl-C9 / C11-polyglucoside (1.4) in aqueous solution at 40%, such as the product sold under the name MYDOL 10® by the company Kao Chemicals, alkyl-C10 / C12 / C14 85/10/5-polyglucoside (1.4) in 55% aqueous solution such as the product sold under the name ORAMIX NS 10® by the company Seppic; and caprylyl / caprylglucoside such as alkyl C8 / C10 50/50 / polyglucoside (2) in aqueous solution at 60%, such as the product sold under the name ORAMIX CG 110® by the company Seppic.
    According to a particular embodiment, the alkylpolyglycoside used in a composition according to the invention is chosen from decylglucoside and caprylyl / caprylglucoside.
    According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the alkylpolyglycoside can be used in admixture with at least one fatty alcohol, in particular a fatty alcohol having from to 30 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.
    In addition, it is particularly advantageous, according to the present invention, to jointly use a fatty alcohol and an alkylpolyglycoside, the alkyl part of which is identical to that of the fatty alcohol retained.
    Among the particularly preferred fatty alcohol / alkylpolyglycoside mixtures, mention may be made of the products sold by the company SEPPIC under the names MONTANOV® such as the following mixtures:
    - Cetylstearyl alcohol / Cocoglucoside - MONTANOV 82®
    - Arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol / arachidylglucoside - MONTANOV 802®
    - Myristyl alcohol / Myristylglucoside - MONTANOV 14®
    - Cetylstearyl alcohol / Cetylstearylglucoside - MONTANOV 68®
    - C14-C22 / C12-C20 alcohol alkylglucoside - MONTANOV L®
    - Cocoalcohol / Coco-glucoside - MONTANOV S®
    - Isostearyl alcohol / osteearlglucoside - MONTANOV WO 18®.
    According to a particular embodiment, the alkylpolyglycoside used in a composition according to the invention is cetylstearyl glucoside. It is advantageously used in the form of a mixture with cetylstearyl alcohol, also called cetearyl alcohol.
    According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the cetylstearyl alcohol / cetylstearylglucoside mixture, thus sold by the company SEPPIC under the name MONTANOV 68®, is thus used, consisting of approximately 20% of cetylstearyl glucoside and approximately 80% of cetylstearyl alcohol.
    According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises the combination of mono-sodium salt of n-stearoyl-L-glutamic acid, more particularly that sold by the company AJINOMOTO under the reference Amisoft HS 11; with a mixture of cetylstearyl alcohol / cetylstearyl glucoside, more particularly that sold sold by the company SEPPIC under the name MONTANOV 68®.
    According to another particular embodiment, the alkylpolyglycoside used in a composition according to the invention is caprylyl / caprylglucoside, such as C8 / C10 50/50 polyglucoside (2) in 60% aqueous solution, like the product marketed under the name ORAMIX CG 110® by the company Seppic.
    In the composition according to the invention, the mass ratio between the quantity of surfactant and the quantity of polar oil is less than or equal to 1. Preferably, the mass ratio between the quantity of surfactant and the quantity of polar oil is included between 0.15 and 1. This ratio is a weight ratio (or ratio). Preferably, the mass ratio between the amount of surfactant and the amount of polar oil is between 0.18 and 0.80, preferably it is between 0.20 and 0.50.
    Aqueous phase
    Conventionally, the dispersing aqueous phase can consist of water, or a mixture of water and water-soluble organic solvents.
    The composition according to the invention comprises at least one water-soluble organic solvent.
    Preferably, the dispersing aqueous phase comprises water and at least one water-soluble organic solvent. The water-soluble organic solvent can be chosen from polyols (polyhydric alcohols) such as, for example, glycerin, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and sorbitol; and water-soluble lower alcohols (i.e. comprising from 1 to 6 carbon tones) such as ethanol, isopropanol or butanol.
    In addition, it can of course contain water-soluble or water-dispersible adjuvants, and in particular the water-soluble cosmetic or dermatological adjuvants conventionally used.
    The aqueous phase may represent from 45 to 99.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 60 to 99% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and better still from 60 to 98% by weight. relative to the total weight of the composition.
    Water can represent from 40 to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 45 to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
    The water-soluble organic solvent (s) can represent from 1 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 5 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
    The weight ratio (weight ratio) between the polar oil and the water-soluble organic solvent is less than or equal to 0.1. Preferably, the weight ratio (weight ratio) between the polar oil and the water-soluble organic solvent is between 0.001 and 0.1, preferably between 0.005 and 0.08.
    Adjuvants
    Among the adjuvants which may be contained in the aqueous phase and / or in the oily phase of the nanoemulsions in accordance with the invention (depending on their water-soluble or liposoluble nature), mention may in particular be made of hydrophilic or lipophilic thickeners, antioxidants, emollients , cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients, perfumes, preservatives, fillers, sequestrants, pigments, dyes, or any other ingredient usually used in the fields under consideration.
    Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional compound (s) to be added to the composition according to the invention and their amounts so that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition according to the invention are not , or substantially not, altered by the proposed addition.
    As thickeners, mention may in particular be made of thickening polymers, in particular:
    - Carboxyvinyl polymers, such as the products sold under the names Carbopol (INCI name: carbomer) by the company Noveon; polyacrylates and polymethacrylates such as the products sold under the names of Lubrajel and Norgel by the company Guardian or under the name Hispagel by the company Hispano Chimica;
    - Polyacrylamides;
    - The polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane-sulfonic acid, optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized, such as the poly (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane-sulfonic acid) sold by the company CLARIANT under the name "Hostacerin AMPS> > (INCI name: ammonium polyacryl-dimethyltauramide) or as crosslinked copolymers of acrylamide and AMPS, in the form of a W / O emulsion, such as those marketed under the name of SEPIGEL 305 (INCI name: Polyacrylamide / C13-14 Isoparaffin / Laureth-7) and under the name of SIMULGEL 600 (INCI name: Acrylamide / Sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / Isohexadecane / Polysorbate 80) by the company SEPPIC. Mention may also be made of AMPS polymers comprising a hydrophobic part, crosslinked or linear, such as the products sold under the names Aristoflex SNC, LNC and HMS by the company Clariant;
    - Polysaccharides such as xanthan gum, guar gum and its derivatives such as hydroxypropyl guar, in particular that marketed under the name Jaguar HP105 by the company Rhodia, locust bean gum, acacia gum, scleroglucans , chitin and chitosan derivatives, carrageenans, gellans, alginates, celluloses such as microcrystalline cellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellullose, hydroxypropylcellulose and hydroxyethylcellulose, such as the product sold under the name Natrosol 250HHR by the company Aqualon;
    - Nonionic polymers comprising at least one hydrophobic block and at least one hydrophilic block, such as the polyurethanes marketed under the names SERAD FX1010, SERAD FX1100 (INCI name: Steareth-100 / PEG-136 / HMDI Copolymer) and SERAD FX1035 by the company HÜLS, those marketed under the names Rheolate 255, Rheolate 278 and Rheolate 244 by the company RHEOX (INCI name: Polyether-urea-polyurethane), those marketed under the names DW 1206F, DW 1206J, DW 1206B, DW 1206G by Rohm & Haas (INCI name: Polyurethane), and that marketed under the name Acrysol RM 2020 of Rohm & Haas. Mention may also be made of the aqueous solutions of copolymer of SMDI and fatty alcohol, sold under the names Aculyn 46 (name INCI: PEG-150 stearyl alcohol / SMDI Polymer), and Aculyn 44 (name INCI: PEG-150 decyl alcohol / SMDI Polymer ) by Rohm &Haas;
    - Anionic polymers comprising at least one hydrophobic chain, and in particular acrylic or methacrylic polymers or copolymers (including terpolymers) comprising at least one hydrophobic chain, such as the copolymers obtained by copolymerization of acrylic or methacrylic acid or their esters with an ethylenically unsaturated monomer comprising a hydrophobic group, such as crosslinked copolymers marketed under the names PEMULEN TR1, PEMULEN TR2 or CARBOPOL 1382 (INCI name: Acrylates / C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer) by the company Noveon; the methacrylic acid / methyl acrylate / dimethyl meta-isopropenyl benzyl isocyanate terpolymer of ethoxylated alcohol, in 25% aqueous solution marketed under the name Viscophobe DB1000 by the company Amerchol, the acrylic acid / itaconate copolymer of mono-stearyl oxyethylene (20 EO ) in an aqueous dispersion at 30% sold under the name Structure 2001 by the company National Starch, the acrylic acid / ethoxylated monocetyl itaconate copolymer (20 EO) at 30% in aqueous dispersion sold under the name Structure
    3001 by the company National Starch, the acrylic copolymer soluble in an alkaline medium in aqueous dispersion at 30% sold under the name Aculyn 22 by the company Rohm &Haas;
    - Cationic polymers containing at least one hydrophobic block and at least one hydrophilic block, such as Polyquaternium 24, such as the product sold under the name Quatrisoft LM200 by the company Amerchol; or
    - Crosslinked cationic polymers such as polyquaternium-37 sold under the names Salcare SC96 by the company Ciba and Synthalen CR by the company 3V Sigma.
    The nanoemulsions according to the invention can be prepared according to the following process:
    - the water is mixed with the surfactant (s), in order to obtain a mixture A;
    - mixing the polar oil (s) and the water-soluble organic solvent (s), in order to obtain a mixture B; then
    - The mixture B is introduced into the mixture A at room temperature, in order to obtain the nanoemulsion according to the invention.
    The compositions of the invention can be used on any keratin material such as the skin, scalp, hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, nails or mucous membranes. They can be used as a skin care product, for example as a protective, treatment or care cream for the face, for the hands or for the body, as a body milk for protecting or caring for the skin, for leather hair or mucous membranes, or as a hygiene product, for example as a cleaning product for the skin or mucous membranes, or even as a hair product or as a sun product.
    The compositions can also constitute products for making up the skin and / or hair, for example by incorporating pigments into the composition to constitute in particular foundations.
    Another subject of the invention is the cosmetic use of the composition as defined above as a skin care product, as a hygiene product, as a hair product, as a sun care product or as a makeup product.
    Another subject of the invention is a method of cosmetic treatment of a keratinous material, such as the skin, scalp, hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, nails or mucous membranes, comprising the application to said material keratin of a composition according to the invention.
    The following examples illustrate the invention without being limiting in nature. The quantities there are percentages by weight. The compounds are indicated in INCI name or in chemical names depending on the case.
    Example 1: nanoemulsion according to the invention
    The nanoemulsion according to the invention is prepared as follows:
    a) the water and the nonionic surfactant (alkylpolyglucoside) are mixed at room temperature;
    b) the ethanol is mixed with the essential oils at room temperature; then
    c) the mixture obtained in b) is introduced into the mixture obtained in a) at room temperature, in order to obtain an opalescent composition.
    The different ingredients are used at room temperature.
    The total amount of polar oils (essential oils) is 0.11% by weight.
    The surfactant: polar oil weight ratio is here about 0.27.
    The polar oil: water-soluble organic solvent weight ratio here is about 0.007.
    Chemical name Quantity (% by weight) PEPPERMINT ESSENTIAL OIL 0.01 MOUNTAIN SAARETTE ESSENTIAL OIL 0.003 L-MENTHOL 0.02 LEMONGRASS ESSENTIAL OIL 0.066 ETHANOL 15 GREEN OREgano ESSENTIAL OIL 0.002 OFFICINAL MELISSE ESSENTIAL OIL 0.001 Rosemary essential oil at cineole 0.02 ALKYL (C8 / C10 50/50) POLYGLUCOSIDE (2) IN AQUEOUS SOLUTION AT 60% (ORAMIX CG 110® from Seppic) 0.05 THYME ESSENTIAL OIL 0.002 LEMON CATTLE ESSENTIAL OIL 0.002 LEMONGRASS ESSENTIAL OIL 0.002 CLOVER ESSENTIAL OIL 0.002 WATER 84.82 (q.s)
    权利要求:
    Claims (15)
    [1" id="c-fr-0001]
    1. Composition, in particular for topical application, in the form of an oil-in-water nanoemulsion, comprising an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, comprising:
    - at least one polar oil,
    - at least one surfactant,
    - at least one water-soluble organic solvent,
    - the mass ratio between the amount of surfactant and the amount of polar oil being less than or equal to 1, and
    - the mass ratio between the amount of polar oil and the amount of water-soluble organic solvent is less than 0.1.
    [2" id="c-fr-0002]
    2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the mass ratio between the amount of surfactant and the amount of polar oil is between 0.15 and 1, preferably between 0.18 and 0.80, preferably it is between 0.20 and 0.50.
    [3" id="c-fr-0003]
    3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the polar oil is chosen from volatile and non-volatile oils, these oils possibly being hydrocarbon oils of animal or vegetable origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, fluorinated oils and their mixtures.
    [4" id="c-fr-0004]
    4. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the polar oil is an essential oil, in particular chosen from mint essential oil, in particular peppermint, geranium essential oil, lemongrass essential oil, cedar essential oil, sweet orange essential oil, green oregano essential oil, lemongrass essential oil, lemon catnip essential oil, essential oil of rosemary, mountain savory essential oil, lemon savory essential oil, laser siler essential oil, marjoram essential oil, buplèvre essential oil, deodorant yarrow essential oil, thyme essential oil, lemon balm essential oil, lemon essential oil, eucalyptus essential oil, in particular radiata or globulus, green or red mandarin essential oil, essential oil of clove, cinnamon essential oil and l their mixtures.
    [5" id="c-fr-0005]
    5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the amount of polar oil is between 0.001 and 10%, preferably between 0.01 and 7%, more preferably between 0.09 and 2% by weight relative to the total composition weight.
    [6" id="c-fr-0006]
    6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises an amount of less than 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the surfactant composition, preferably the amount of surfactant is between 0.001 and 1 % by weight, preferably between 0.01 and 0.5% by weight, preferably between 0.01 and 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
    [7" id="c-fr-0007]
    7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the surfactant is chosen from anionic, nonionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic and cationic surfactants.
    [8" id="c-fr-0008]
    8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the surfactant is chosen from nonionic surfactants.
    [9" id="c-fr-0009]
    9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the surfactant is an alkylpolyglycoside, in particular of the following structure: R (0) (G) 'in which the radical R is a linear or branched C6- alkyl radical C30 preferably C12-C22, G is a saccharide residue and x varies from 1 to 5, preferably from 1.05 to 2.5 and more preferably from 1.1 to 2.
    [10" id="c-fr-0010]
    10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the particles have a number-average diameter between 50 nm and 1 pm, preferably between 100 nm and 800 nm.
    [11" id="c-fr-0011]
    11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the water-soluble organic solvent is chosen from polyols such as glycerin, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and sorbitol; and water-soluble alcohols having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, isopropanol or butanol.
    [12" id="c-fr-0012]
    12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the water-soluble organic solvent represents from 1 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 5 to 30% by weight relative to the weight total of the composition.
    [13" id="c-fr-0013]
    13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the mass ratio between the polar oil and the water-soluble organic solvent is between 0.001 and 0.1, preferably between 0.005 and 0.08.
    [14" id="c-fr-0014]
    14. Cosmetic use of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13 as a skin care product, as a hygiene product, as a product
    10 capillaries, as a sunscreen or as a make-up product.
    [15" id="c-fr-0015]
    15. Cosmetic treatment process for a keratinous material, characterized in that a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13 is applied to the keratinous material.
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    同族专利:
    公开号 | 公开日
    FR3061010B1|2019-05-24|
    引用文献:
    公开号 | 申请日 | 公开日 | 申请人 | 专利标题
    EP1616552A1|2004-06-28|2006-01-18|L'oreal|Oil-in-water fine emulsion|
    WO2016182926A1|2015-05-08|2016-11-17|Affinsci Inc.|Preparation of nanoemulsions|FR3078255A1|2018-02-23|2019-08-30|L'oreal|PROCESS FOR TREATING KERATINIC MATERIALS FROM CITRONNEED SARRIETTE HYDROLAT AND THE COSMETIC COMPOSITION CONTAINING SAME|
    FR3078259A1|2018-02-23|2019-08-30|L'oreal|COSMETIC USE OF A CITRONNEE-LIKE SAVING EXTRACT AS ANTI-POLLUTION AGENT|
    FR3078256A1|2018-02-23|2019-08-30|L'oreal|PROCESS FOR THE TREATMENT OF KERATINIC MATERIALS FROM ESSENTIAL OIL OF CITRONNEED SARRIETTE, AND THE COSMETIC COMPOSITION CONTAINING SAME|
    FR3078257A1|2018-02-23|2019-08-30|L'oreal|COSMETIC USE OF A CITRONNEED SARRIETTE HYDROLATE TO ENHANCE THE BARRIER FUNCTION OF THE SKIN|
    法律状态:
    2017-11-13| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 2 |
    2018-06-29| PLSC| Publication of the preliminary search report|Effective date: 20180629 |
    2019-11-15| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 4 |
    2020-11-12| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 5 |
    2021-11-15| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 6 |
    优先权:
    申请号 | 申请日 | 专利标题
    FR1663336|2016-12-23|
    FR1663336A|FR3061010B1|2016-12-23|2016-12-23|NANOEMULSIONS BASED ON POLAR OIL|FR1663336A| FR3061010B1|2016-12-23|2016-12-23|NANOEMULSIONS BASED ON POLAR OIL|
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