专利摘要:
The present invention relates to a solid cosmetic makeup or care composition comprising: a continuous fat phase comprising at least one silicone polyamide, at least one polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oil and at least one polar wax whose melting point is lower; or equal to 90 ° C; and an aqueous phase dispersed in the continuous fatty phase, said silicone polyamide representing at most 9% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition, and said wax representing at least 7% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.
公开号:FR3061006A1
申请号:FR1663135
申请日:2016-12-22
公开日:2018-06-29
发明作者:Sylvie Manet;Roshanak Debeaud
申请人:LOreal SA;
IPC主号:
专利说明:

Holder (s):
L'OREAL Public limited company.
O Extension request (s):
(® Agent (s): LAVOIX.
FR 3 061 006 - A1 (54) SOLID COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING A SILICONE POLYAMIDE, A SILICONE RESIN AND A DISPERSE AQUEOUS PHASE.
(57) The present invention relates to a solid cosmetic makeup or care composition comprising:
- A continuous fatty phase comprising at least one silicone polyamide, at least one polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oil and at least one polar wax whose melting point is less than or equal to 90 ° C; and
an aqueous phase dispersed in the continuous fatty phase, said silicone polyamide representing at most 9% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition, and said wax representing at least 7% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.
Solid cosmetic composition comprising a silicone polyamide, a silicone resin and a dispersed aqueous phase
The present invention relates to a solid cosmetic composition, in particular for make-up and / or care intended to be applied to the skin, the lips or the integuments of human beings such as hair, eyelashes, eyebrows or nails, comprising a continuous fatty phase comprising at least one silicone polyamide, at least one silicone resin, at least one polar non-volatile oil hydrocarbon and at least one polar wax with a melting point less than or equal to 90 ° C; and an aqueous phase dispersed in the continuous fatty phase, said silicone polyamide representing at most 9% of the total weight of said composition, and said wax representing at least 7% of the total weight of said composition.
In cosmetic care or make-up products, it is common to find a structured liquid phase, namely gelled and / or stiffened. This is particularly the case in solid compositions, in particular solid casting compositions, balms and lipsticks, eyeshadows, concealer products and cast foundations. This structuring is notably obtained using specific gelling agents, such as for example silicone polymers of the polysiloxane / polyamide type.
The use of this type of silicone polymer provides access to an original solid texture of cosmetic composition: in fact, this texture does not correspond either to that of a conventional stick having a fairly high rigidity, or to that of a classic gel with a liquid or pasty consistency.
In document EP2044976, solid cosmetic compositions are proposed having a structured liquid phase. In fact, these compositions comprise an oily phase gelled with a silicone polymer of polysiloxane / polyamide type and a tackifying resin, in particular of rosin type, in order to increase the hardness of the composition. However, these compositions can be sticky to the application.
It is also known to combine silicone polymers of the polysiloxane / polyamide type with silicone resins in order to increase the resistance of these compositions. However, they tend to be more difficult to apply, sticky on application, and cause feelings of dryness, which is not comfortable for users.
In addition, most solid lip makeup compositions, such as lipstick sticks, are anhydrous. However, for various reasons linked in particular to better comfort of use (in particular a freshness effect, and a feeling of hydration and the like), it is advantageous to incorporate an aqueous phase.
However, no additional benefit from this addition is generally obtained.
Thus, there is a need for a solid cosmetic formulation, in particular for making up the lips, which is provided with good qualities of deformability for an easy and pleasant application, while being non-sticky, and conferring freshness and hydration on application. In addition, there is a need for such a composition which also exhibits good resistance over time, and which does not migrate very little.
Unexpectedly, the inventors have succeeded in accessing such a formulation, which makes it possible to solve the abovementioned problems.
Consequently, the present invention relates, according to a first aspect, to a solid cosmetic makeup or care composition comprising:
a continuous fatty phase comprising at least one silicone polyamide, at least one silicone resin, at least one non-volatile polar hydrocarbon-based oil and at least one polar wax whose melting point is less than or equal to 90 ° C; and
an aqueous phase dispersed in the continuous fatty phase, said silicone polyamide representing at most 9% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition, and said wax representing at least 7% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.
The term "solid" characterizes the state of the composition at room temperature (25 ° C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).
More preferably, the silicone polyamide represents between 2 and 9% by weight, preferably between 3 and 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The present invention also relates to a process for making up or caring for keratin materials and especially the lips, in which a composition as defined above is applied to the keratin materials, and in particular the lips.
The invention makes it possible to obtain solid compositions having good sliding properties and their application is pleasant.
In addition, on application of the composition, there is no significant slip effect without feeling a deposit of the composition (it is said that the composition does not "chase" during application).
The compositions according to the invention provide hydration and freshness on application.
Furthermore, there is no feeling of dryness of the deposit or of tightness once the composition is applied.
The deposit obtained is fresh, fine, uniform, non-sticky. It provides a uniform color deposit, non-migrating and good hold, and also has good coverage.
The solid compositions in accordance with the invention also have a lower hardness than that of conventional sticks. Advantageously, the compositions according to the invention have a hardness varying from 10 to 100 g, preferably varying from 30 to 70 g, unlike conventional sticks which have a hardness greater than 100 g, in particular more than 150 g. This hardness gives the solid composition according to the invention a sufficiently low rigidity to obtain a deposit having the qualities mentioned in the previous paragraph, while being high enough not to break.
Hardness characterization
Advantageously, the compositions according to the invention have a hardness varying from 20 to 90 Nm ' 1 , more particularly 30 to 80 Nm' 1 , preferably from 40 to 60 Nm ' 1 , and even more advantageously from 45 to 55 Nm' 1 .
The hardness of the composition according to the invention is such that the composition is self-supporting and can disintegrate easily to form a satisfactory deposit on the skin and the lips. In addition, with this hardness, the composition of the invention resists impact well.
The hardness is measured according to the following protocol:
The lipstick is stored at 20 ° C for 24 hours before the hardness measurement.
The hardness can be measured at 20 ° C by the "butter cutting wire" method, which consists in cutting a stick of product transversely, preferably cylindrical of revolution, using a rigid tungsten wire of diameter 250 μm by moving the wire relative to the stick at a speed of 100 mm / min.
The hardness of the samples of compositions of the invention, expressed in Nm ′ 1 , is measured using a DFGS2 dynamometer sold by the company INDELCO-CHATILLON.
The measurement is reproduced three times and then averaged. The average of the three values read by means of the dynamometer mentioned above, denoted Y, is given in grams. This average is converted to Newton and then divided by L which represents the highest dimension crossed by the wire. In the case of a cylindrical stick, L is equal to the diameter (in meters).
The hardness is converted to Nm ′ 1 by the equation below:
(Yx 10 3 x 9.8) / L
For a measurement at a different temperature, the stick is kept 24 hours at this new temperature before the measurement.
POLYAMIDE SILICONE
As indicated above, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one silicone polyamide.
The silicone polyamides of the composition are preferably solid at room temperature (25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).
By polymer is meant in the sense of the invention a compound having at least 2 repeating units, preferably at least 3 repeating units and better still 10 repeating units.
The silicone polyamides of the composition of the invention can be polymers of the polyorganosiloxane type, for example those described in documents US-A-5,874,069, US-A-5,919,441, US-A-6,051,216 and US-A-5,981,680 . According to the invention, the silicone polymers can belong to the following two families:
(1) polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two amide groups, these two groups being located in the polymer chain, and / or (2) polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two amide groups, these two groups being located on grafts or branches.
A) According to a first variant, the silicone polymers are polyorganosiloxanes as defined above and the amide units of which are arranged in the polymer chain.
The silicone polyamides can more particularly be polymers comprising at least one unit corresponding to general formula I:
(D
1) in which: G represents C (O) when G represents -C (O) -NH-Y-NH- and G ’represents -NH- when G represents -NH-C (O) -Y-C (O) -
2) R 4 , R 5 , R 6 and R 7 , identical or different, represent a group chosen from:
saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched or cyclic, branched or cyclic, Ci to C 4 o hydrocarbon groups, which may contain in their chain one or more oxygen, sulfur and / or nitrogen atoms, and which may be partially substituted or totally by fluorine atoms, C 6 to C 10 aryl groups, optionally substituted by one or more C 4 to C 4 alkyl groups, polyorganosiloxane chains containing or not containing one or more oxygen, sulfur and / or nitrogen,
3) the X, identical or different, represent a linear or branched Ct to C 30 alkylene di-yl group, which may contain in its chain one or more oxygen and / or nitrogen atoms,
4) Y is a divalent linear or branched alkylene, arylene, cycloalkylene, alkylarylene or arylalkylene, saturated or unsaturated, C 1 to C 50 group , which may contain one or more oxygen, sulfur and / or nitrogen atoms, and / or bearing as substituent one of the following atoms or groups of atoms: fluorine, hydroxy, cycloalkyl C 3 -C 8 alkyl -C 4 o aryl, C 5 to Ci 0, phenyl optionally substituted with 1 to 3 alkyl groups -C 3 hydroxyalkyl, Ci to C 3 alkyl and amino Ci-C 6, or
5) Y represents a group corresponding to the formula:
in which
T represents a trivalent or tetravalent, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C 3 -C 24 hydrocarbon group optionally substituted by a polyorganosiloxane chain, and which may contain one or more atoms chosen from O, N and S, or T represents an atom trivalent chosen from N, P and Al, and
R 8 represents a linear or branched Ct to C 50 alkyl group, or a polyorganosiloxane chain, which may contain one or more ester, amide, urethane, thiocarbamate, urea, thiourea and / or sulfonamide groups which may or may not be linked to a other polymer chain,
6) n is an integer ranging from 2 to 500, preferably from 2 to 200, and m is an integer ranging from 50 to 1000, preferably from 50 to 700 and better still from 50 to 200.
Note that "m" corresponds to the average degree of polymerization of the silicone portion of the silicone polyamide.
According to one embodiment of the invention, 80% of the R 4 , R 5 , R 6 and R 7 , of the polymer are preferably chosen from methyl, ethyl, phenyl and 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl groups. According to another mode, 80% of the R 4 , R 5 , R 6 and R 7 , of the polymer are methyl groups.
According to the invention, Y can represent various divalent groups, optionally also comprising one or two free valences to establish connections with other units of the polymer or copolymer. Preferably, Y represents a group chosen from:
a) linear Ct to C 20 alkylene groups, preferably Ct to C 10 ,
b) branched alkylene groups which may contain unconjugated C 30 to C 56 rings and unsaturations,
c) C 5 -C 6 cycloalkylene groups,
d) phenylene groups optionally substituted by one or several alkyl groups in C 4 o,
e) C 1 to C 20 alkylene groups comprising from 1 to 5 amide groups,
f) C 1 -C 2 alkylene groups, comprising one or more substituents, chosen from hydroxyl, C 3 to C 8 cycloalkane, C 1 to C 3 hydroxyalkyl and C 1 to C 6 alkylamines,
g) polyorganosiloxane chains of formula:
or
wherein R 4 , R 5 , R 6 , R 7 , T and m are as defined above.
B) According to the second variant, the silicone polyamides can be polymers comprising at least one unit corresponding to formula (II):
R 4
If --- O
R 6
R
If m i
Cn) in which
R 4 and R 6 , identical or different, are as defined above for formula (I),
R 10 represents a group as defined above for R 4 and R 6 , or represents the group of formula -XG ”-R 12 in which X are as defined above for formula (I) and R 12 represents a hydrogen atom or a hydrocarbon group, linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, C 1 to C 50 optionally comprising in its chain one or more atoms chosen from O, S and N, optionally substituted by one or more atoms fluorine and / or one or more hydroxyl groups, or phenyl optionally substituted by one or more alkyl group in Ci to C 4, and G "represents -C (O) NH- and -HN-C (O) -.
R 11 represents the group of formula -XG ”-R 12 in which X, G” and R 12 are as defined above, m! is an integer ranging from 50 to 998, and m 2 is an integer ranging from 2 to 500.
Note that "πη" corresponds to the average degree of polymerization of the silicone portion of the silicone polyamide.
According to the invention, the silicone polymer can be a homopolymer, that is to say a polymer comprising several identical units, in particular units of formula (I) or of formula (II).
According to the invention, it is also possible to use a polymer constituted by a copolymer comprising several units of formula (I) different, that is to say a polymer in which at least one of R 4 , R 5 , R 6 , R 7 , X, G, Y, m and n is different in one of the patterns. The copolymer can also be formed from several units of formula (II), in which at least one of R 4 , R 6 , R 10 , R 11 , m! and m 2 is different in at least one of the patterns.
It is also possible to use a polymer comprising at least one unit of formula (I) and at least one unit of formula (II), the units of formula (I) and the units of formula (II) possibly being identical or different from each other. other.
According to a variant of the invention, it is also possible to use a silicone polyamide further comprising at least one hydrocarbon unit comprising two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions chosen from the ester, amide, sulfonamide, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea, urethane groups. , thiourea, oxamido, guanidino, biguanidino and combinations thereof.
These copolymers can be block polymers, block polymers or graft polymers.
In formulas (I) and (II), the alkylene group representing X or Y may optionally contain in its alkylene part at least one of the following elements:
) 1 to 5 amide, urea, urethane, or carbamate groups,
2) a C 5 or C 6 cycloalkyl group, and
3) a phenylene group optionally substituted with 1 to 3 identical or different Ct to C 3 alkyl groups.
In formulas (I) and (II), the alkylene groups can also be substituted by at least one element chosen from the group consisting of:
hydroxy, cycloalkyl C 3 -C 8, one to three alkyl groups Ct to C 40 optionally substituted by phenyl to three alkyl groups C l -C 3 hydroxyalkyl Ci -C 3 , and a aminoalkyl group to C 6.
In these formulas (I) and (II), Y can also represent:
where R 8 represents a polyorganosiloxane chain, and T represents a group of formula:
R 13
----- (CH 2 ) a ----- C ----- (CH 2 ) b ----- or ----- (CH 2 ) a ----- N - --- (CH 2 ) b - (CH 2 ) c (CH 2 ) c in which a, b and c are independently whole numbers ranging from 1 to 10, and R 13 is a hydrogen atom or a group such than those defined for R 4 , R 5 , R 6 and R 7 .
In formulas (I) and (II), R 4 , R 5 , R 6 and R 7 preferably represent, independently, a linear or branched Ct to C 40 alkyl group, preferably a CH 3 , C 2 group H 5 , nC 3 H 7 or isopropyl, a polyorganosiloxane chain or a phenyl group optionally substituted by one to three methyl or ethyl groups.
As we have seen previously, the polymer can comprise units of formula (I) or (II) which are identical or different.
Thus, the polymer can be a polyamide containing several units of formula (I) or (II) of different lengths, or a polyamide corresponding to formula (III):
(III) in which X, Y, n, R 4 to R 7 have the meanings given above, m! and m 2 which are different, are chosen from the range going from 1 to 1000, and p is an integer going from 2 to 300.
In this formula, the units can be structured to form either a block copolymer, a random copolymer, or an alternating copolymer. In this copolymer, the units can be not only of different lengths but also of different chemical structures, for example having different Y's. In this case, the polymer can correspond to formula (IV):
(IV) in which R 4 to R 7 , X, Y, m b m 2 , n and p have the meanings given above and Y 1 is different from Y but chosen from the groups defined for Y. As previously, the different patterns can be structured to form either a block copolymer, a random copolymer or an alternating copolymer.
In this first embodiment of the invention, the silicone polymer can also consist of a graft copolymer. Thus, the polyamide with silicone units can be grafted and optionally crosslinked by silicone chains with amide groups. Such polymers can be synthesized with trifunctional amines.
According to the invention, as has been seen previously, the siloxane units may be in the main chain or backbone of the polymer, but they may also be present in grafted or pendant chains. In the main chain, the siloxane units can be in the form of segments as described above. In the pendant or grafted chains, the siloxane units can appear individually or in segments.
According to an alternative embodiment of the invention, it is possible to use a copolymer of silicone polyamide and of hydrocarbon polyamide, ie a copolymer comprising units of formula (I) or (II) and polyamide hydrocarbon units. In this case, the polyamide-silicone units can be arranged at the ends of the hydrocarbon polyamide.
Advantageously, the composition comprises at least one polyamide / polydimethylsiloxane polymer, in particular a polymer of general formula (I) having an index m of value greater than 50, in particular greater than 75, in particular approximately 100.
Advantageously, the silicone polyamide of formula (I) has a weight-average molecular mass ranging from 10,000 to 500,000 g / mol.
More preferably, X and Y independently represent a group selected from linear alkylene groups -C 20, preferably C l -C w.
As examples of silicone polyamide, mention may be made of one of the silicone polyamides obtained in accordance with examples 1 to 3 of document US-A-5,981,680, as well as the product sold under the reference DC 2-8179 by Dow Corning (name INCI: NYLON-611 / DIMETHICONE COPOLYMER).
According to an alternative embodiment of the invention, the polymer consists of a homopolymer or copolymer comprising urethane or urea groups. These polymers are described in detail in application WO 2003/106614.
The composition may contain, in place of the silicone polyamide, a polyorganosiloxane polymer containing two or more urethane and / or urea groups, either in the backbone of the polymer, or on side chains or as pendant groups.
The polymers comprising at least two urethane groups and / or ureas in the backbone can be polymers comprising at least one unit corresponding to the following formula:
| R 4 Ί R 5 m R in which R 4 , R 5 , R 6 , R 7 , X, Y, m and n have the meanings given above for formula (I), and U represents -O- or -NH-, so that:
--- U --- C --- NH - O corresponds to a urethane or urea group.
In this formula, Y may be an alkylene group, -C o -C 4 linear or branched, optionally substituted by alkyl Cl to C 5 or an aryl group
C 5 to Ci 0 . Preferably, a group - (CH 2 ) 6 - is used,
The polymer constituting the silicone polymer may be formed from silicone urethane and / or silicone urea units of different length and / or of constitution, and may be in the form of block, block or random (random) copolymers.
As in the case of the silicone polyamides of formula (I), (II) or (III), it is possible to use in the invention polyurethanes or silicone polyureas having units of different length and structure, in particular units of length different by the number of silicone units.
The polymers and copolymers used in the composition of the invention advantageously have a transition temperature from the solid state to the liquid state ranging from 45 ° C to 190 ° C. Preferably, they have a transition temperature from the solid state to the liquid state ranging from 70 to 130 ° C and better still from 80 ° C to 105 ° C.
The silicone polyamide is present in the composition in a content of at most 9% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The silicone polyamide may be present in the composition in a total content ranging from 2 to 9% by weight, advantageously from 2 to 7% by weight, preferably from 3 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Advantageously, the silicone polyamide has a weight-average molecular mass of between 10,000 and 500,000 g / mol.
SILICONE RESIN
The composition according to the invention comprises at least one silicone resin.
More generally, the term "resin" means a compound whose structure is three-dimensional. Thus, within the meaning of the present invention, a polydimethylsiloxane is not a silicone resin.
The nomenclature of silicone resins (also called siloxane resins or silicone resins) is known under the name of MDTQ, the resin being described according to the different monomeric siloxane units which it comprises, each of the letters MDTQ characterizing a type of unit .
The letter "M" represents the Monofunctional unit of formula R1 R2R3SiO 1/2 , the silicon atom being linked to a single oxygen atom in the polymer comprising this unit.
The letter "D" means a Difunctional unit R1R2SiO 2/2 in which the silicon atom is linked to two oxygen atoms.
The letter "T >> represents a trifunctional unit of formula R1SiO 3/2.
Such resins are described, for example, in "Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Enginnering, vol. 15, John and Wiley and Sons, New York, (1989), p. 265-270, and US 2,676,182, US 3,627,851, US 3,772,247, US 5,248,739 or even US 5,082,706, US 5,319,040, US 5,302, 685 and US 4,935,484.
In the units M, D, T defined above, Ri, namely R1, R2 and R3, identical or different, represent a hydrocarbon radical (in particular alkyl) having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a phenyl group, a phenylalkyl group or still a hydroxyl group.
Finally, the letter "Q >> denotes a tetrafunctional unit SiO 4/2 in which the silicon atom is bonded to four atoms themselves of oxygen linked to the rest of the polymer.
Various silicone resins with different properties can be obtained from these different units, the properties of these polymers varying according to the type of monomers (or units), the nature and number of the radical (s) Ri, the length of the polymer chain, the degree of branching and the size of the hanging chains.
As silicone resins which can be used in the compositions according to the invention, it is possible to use, for example, silicone resins of MQ type, of T type or of MQT type.
MQ resins:
Examples of MQ type silicone resins, there may be mentioned alkylsiloxysilicates the formula [(R1) 3 SiO / 2] x (SiO 4/2) y (MQ units) wherein x and y are integers ranging from 50 to 80, and such that the group R1 represents a radical as defined above, and preferably is an alkyl group having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyl group, preferably a methyl group,
As examples of solid silicone resins of MQ type of trimethylsiloxysilicate type, mention may be made of those sold under the reference SR1000 by the company General Electric, under the reference TMS 803 by the company Wacker, under the name KF-7312J by the company Shin-Etsu, DC 749, DC 593 by Dow Corning.
As silicone resins comprising MQ siloxysilicate units, mention may also be made of phenylalkylesiloxysilicate resins, such as phenylpropyldimethylsiloxysilicate (Silshine 151 sold by the company General
Electric). The preparation of such resins is described in particular in the patent
US5817302.
T resins:
Examples of silicone T-type resins, there may be mentioned polysilsesquioxanes of formula (RSiO 3/2) x (T units) wherein x is greater than 100 and such that the group R is an alkyl group having 1 containing 10 carbon atoms, said polysilsesquioxanes possibly also comprising Si-OH end groups.
Mention may also be made of polymethylsilsesquioxanes which are polysilsesquioxanes in which none of the methyl radicals is substituted by another group. Such polymethylsilsesquioxanes are described, for example, in document US 5,246,694.
Preferably, polymethylsilsesquioxane resins in which R represents a methyl group can be used, such as, for example, those sold:
- - by the company Wacker under the reference Resin MK such as Belsil PMS MK: polymer comprising repeating units CH 3 SiO 3/2 (units T), which can also comprise up to 1% by weight of units (CH 3 ) 2 SiO 2/2 (D units) and having an average molecular weight of approximately 10,000 g / mol, or
- - by the company SHIN-ETSU under the references KR-220L which are composed of T units of formula CH 3 SiO 3/2 and have terminal groups Si-OH (silanol), under the reference KR-242A which include 98 % of T units and 2% of dimethyl D units and have Si-OH end groups or also under the reference KR-251 comprising 88% of T units and 12% of dimethyl D units and have Si end groups -OH.
MQT resins:
By way of resin comprising MQT patterns, those cited in document US 5 110 890 are known in particular.
A preferred form of MQT-type resins are MQT-propyl resins (also called MQTPr). Such resins which can be used in the compositions according to the invention are in particular those described and prepared in application WO 2005/075542, the content of which is incorporated here by reference.
The MQ-T-propyl resin preferably comprises the units:
- (i) (R 1 3 SiO 1/2) a (u) (R 2 2 SiO 2/2) b
- (iii) (R 3 SiO 3/2) c and (i v) (SiO 4/2) d with
- R1, R2 and R3 independently representing a hydrocarbon radical (in particular alkyl) having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a phenyl group, a phenylalkyl group or alternatively a hydroxyl group and preferably an alkyl radical having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms carbon or a phenyl group,
- a, b, c and d being molar fractions,
- a being between 0.05 and 0.5,
- b being between zero and 0.3,
- c being greater than zero,
- d being between 0.05 and 0.6,
- a + b + c + d = 1,
- provided that more than 40 mol% of the R3 groups of the siloxane resin are propyl groups.
Preferably, the siloxane resin comprises the units:
- (i) (R1 3 SiO 1/2 ) a
- (iii) (R 3 SiO 3/2) c and (iv) (SiO 4/2) d with
R1 and R3 independently representing an alkyl group having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, R1 preferably being a methyl group and R3 preferably being a propyl group,
- a being between 0.05 and 0.5, preferably between 0.15 and 0.4,
- c being greater than zero, preferably between 0.15 and 0.4,
d being between 0.05 and 0.6, preferably between 0.2 and 0.6, or even between 0.2 and 0.55,
- a + b + c + d = 1, and a, b, c and d being molar fractions,
- provided that more than 40 mol% of the R3 groups of the siloxane resin are propyl groups.
The siloxane resins which can be used according to the invention can be obtained by a process comprising the reaction of:
A) a MQ resin comprising at least 80 mole% of units (R 1 3 SiO 1/2) a and (SiO 4/2) d
R1 representing an alkyl group having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, an aryl group, a carbinol group or an amino group,
- a and d being greater than zero,
- the ratio a / d being between 0.5 and 1.5;
and of
B) a T propyl resin comprising at least 80 mole% of units (R 3 SiO 3/2) c,
- R3 representing an alkyl group having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, an aryl group, a carbinol group or an amino group,
- c being greater than zero,
- provided that at least 40 mol% of the R3 groups are propyl groups,
- where the mass ratio A / B is between 95: 5 and 15:85, preferably the mass ratio A / B is 30:70.
Advantageously, the A / B mass ratio is between 95: 5 and 15:85. Preferably, the A / B ratio is less than or equal to 70:30. These preferred ratios have been found to provide comfortable deposits.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises, as silicone resin, at least one MQ type resin as described above.
In particular, the silicone resin is a siloxysilicate resin, preferably a trimethylsiloxysilicate resin.
Advantageously, the silicone resin is present in a content of at least 5% by weight, preferably in a content ranging from 5 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, or better still from 6 to 9% by weight .
Preferably, the silicone resin, and in particular the trimethylsiloxysilicate resin, is present in a ratio such that the mass proportion of silicone resin / silicone polyamide is between 1 and 7/3, and preferably between 1.2 and 2.
CONTINUOUS FAT PHASE
The continuous fatty phase of the composition according to the invention comprises the silicone polyamide and the silicone resin indicated above, as well as at least one wax, and at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon polar oil.
NON-VOLATILE POLAR HYDROCARBON OIL
Preferably, the composition comprises between 5% and 30%, preferably between 5% and 25% by weight of non-volatile hydrocarbon-based polar oil relative to the total weight of the composition.
By “oil” is meant a non-aqueous compound, liquid at 25 ° C. and atmospheric pressure (1.013 .10 5 Pa), immiscible with water.
By "immiscible" is meant that the mixture of the same amount of water and oil, after stirring, does not lead to a stable solution comprising only one phase, under the conditions of temperature and pressure mentioned above. The observation is made by eye or by means of a phase contrast microscope if necessary, on 100 g of mixture obtained after Rayneri stirring sufficient to reveal a vortex within the mixture (for information 200 to 1000 rpm / min); the resulting mixture being left to stand, in a closed bottle, for 24 hours at room temperature before observation.
By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil whose vapor pressure at 25 ° C and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and less than 10 -3 mm Hg (0.13 Pa).
By “hydrocarbon oil” is meant an oil formed essentially, or even made up, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen, nitrogen atoms, and not containing any silicon atom or fluorine. Hydrocarbon oil is therefore distinct from silicone oil and fluorinated oil.
It can contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups.
Preferably, the hydrocarbon oil is free from heteroatoms such as nitrogen, sulfur and phosphorus.
In the present case, the polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oil comprises at least one oxygen atom.
In particular, this non-volatile hydrocarbon oil comprises at least one alcohol function (it is then an "alcohol oil") or at least one ester function (it is then a "ester oil >>) .
The ester oils which can be used in the compositions according to the invention can in particular be hydroxylated.
The composition can comprise one or more non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, in particular chosen from:
- C alcohols, preferably monoalcohols;
More particularly, the Cio-C 26 alcohols are saturated or not, branched or not, and contain from 10 to 26 carbon atoms.
Preferably, the C 1 -C 26 alcohols are fatty alcohols, preferably branched when they comprise at least 16 carbon atoms.
As examples of fatty alcohols which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of linear or branched fatty alcohols, of synthetic origin, or even natural, such as, for example, alcohols from plant materials (copra, palm kernel, palm ...) or animal (suet ...).
Of course, other long-chain alcohols can also be used, such as for example ether-alcohols or even so-called Guerbet alcohols.
Finally, it is also possible to use certain more or less long cuts of alcohols of natural origin, such as for example coconut (C 12 to C 16 ) or tallow (C 16 to C 18 ) or diol or cholesterol type compounds.
A fatty alcohol preferably comprising from 10 to 24 carbon atoms is used, and more preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.
By way of particular examples of fatty alcohols which may be used as preferred, mention may especially be made of lauric, isostearyl, oleic alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol , octyldodecanol and their mixtures.
According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the alcohol is chosen from octyldodecanol.
- monoesters, diesters, triesters, optionally hydroxylated, of a mono or polycarboxylic acid C 2 -C 8 and an alcohol C 2 -C g .
In particular :
* the monoesters of a C 2 -C 8 carboxylic acid and of a C 2 -C 8 alcohol, optionally hydroxylated, * the diesters of a C 2 -C 8 dicarboxylic acid and of a C alcohol 2 -C 8 , optionally hydroxylated; such as diisopropyl adipate, 2-diethyl hexyl adipate, dibutyl adipate, or diisostearyl adipate, 2-diethyl-hexyl succinate, * triesters of a C 2 -C 8 carboxylic triacid and an alcohol C 2 -C 8 , optionally hydroxylated, such as citric acid esters, such as trioctyl citrate, triethylcitrate, acetyltributyl citrate, tributyl citrate, acetyltributyl citrate.
- the esters of a C -Cg polyol and of one or more Cp-Cg carboxylic acids, such as glycol and monoacid diesters, such as neopentylglycol diheptanoate, or glycol and monoacid triesters such as triacetin.
- ester oils, in particular before between 17 and 70 carbon atoms.
By way of examples, mention may be made of mono-, di- or tri-esters.
The ester oils can be hydroxylated or not.
The non-volatile ester oil can be chosen, for example, from:
* monoesters comprising between 17 and 40 carbon atoms in total, in particular monoesters, of formula FTCOORp in which Rt represents the remainder of a linear or branched or aromatic fatty acid containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, saturated or not , and R 2 represents a notably branched hydrocarbon chain containing from 3 to 40 carbon atoms provided that Ri + R 2 is> 17, such as, for example, Purcellin oil (ketostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, Ci 2 to Ci 5 alcohol benzoate, ethyl 2-hexyl palmitate, octyledodecyl neopentanoate, 2-octyl dodecyl stearate, 2-octyl dodecyl erucate, isostearate isostearyl, 2-octyl dodecyl benzoate, alcohol or polyalcohol octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, palmitate 2-ethyl-hexyl, 2-hexyl-decyl laurate, palmitate of 2 -octyl-decyl, 2-octyldodecyl myristate.
Preferably, these are esters of formula R1COOR2 in which Ri represents the remainder of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R 2 represents a hydrocarbon chain in particular branched containing from 3 to 40 atoms carbon, Ri and R 2 being such that Ri + R 2 is> 17.
Even more particularly, the ester comprises between 17 and 40 carbon atoms in total.
As preferred monoesters, mention may be made of isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate and / or octyl-2-docecyl neopentanoate;
* fatty acid monoesters, in particular from 18 to 22 carbon atoms, and in particular lanolic acid, oleic acid, lauric acid, stearic acid, and diols, such as propylene glycol monoisostearate .
* diesters, in particular comprising between 18 and 60 carbon atoms in total, in particular between 18 and 50 carbon atoms in total. The diesters of dicarboxylic acid and of monoalcohols, such as preferably diisostearyl malate, or the diesters of glycol and of mono carboxylic acids, such as neopentylglycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol dioctanoate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate, or in particular, can be used. 2-polyglyceryl diisostearate (in particular such as the compound sold under the commercial reference DERMOL DGDIS by the company Alzo);
* hydroxylated monoesters and diesters, preferably having a total number of carbon ranging from 18 to 70, such as polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, isostearyl lactate, octylhydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate , glycerin stearate;
* triesters, in particular comprising between 35 and 70 carbon atoms in total, in particular such as triacids of triacarboxylic acid, such as triisostearyl citrate, or tridecyl trimellitate, or triesters of glycol and of mono-carboxylic acids such as triisostearate polyglycerol-2;
* tetraesters, in particular having a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70, such as tetraesters of penthaerythritol or of polyglycerol and of a mono carboxylic acid, for example such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl of tetraisostearate, teteasononanoate pentaerythrityl, glyceryl tri-decyl-2 tetradecanoate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate or else pentaerythrityl tetra-decyl-2 tetradecanoate;
* the polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and of diol such as those described in patent application FR 0 853 634, such as in particular dilinoleic acid and 1,4- butanediol. Mention may in particular be made, as such, of the polymer marketed by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H (INCI name: dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymer), or alternatively the copolymers of polyols and of diacid dimers, and their esters, such as Hailucent ISDA;
* esters and polyesters of dimer diol and of mono- or dicarboxylic acid, such as esters of dimer diol and of fatty acid and esters of dimer diols and of dimer dicarboxylic acid, in particular obtainable from a dicarboxylic acid dimer derived in particular from the dimerization of an unsaturated fatty acid in particular in C 8 to C 34 , in particular in C 12 to C 22 , in particular in C 16 to C 20 , and more particularly in C 18 , such as esters of dilinoleic diacids and of dilinoleic diol dimers, for example such as those sold by the company NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL under the trade name LUSPLAN DD-DA5® and DD-DA7®;
* the polyesters resulting from the esterification of at least one triglyceride of carboxylic acid (s) hydroxylated (s) by an aliphatic monocarboxylic acid and by an aliphatic dicarboxylic acid, possibly unsaturated like castor oil succinic acid and isostearic acid sold under the reference Zénigloss by Zénitech;
* vegetable hydrocarbon oils such as triglycerides of fatty acids (liquid at room temperature), in particular fatty acids having from 7 to 40 carbon atoms, such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or jojoba oil, in particular, mention may be made of saturated triglycerides such as caprylic / capric triglyceride and their mixtures, for example such as that sold under the reference Myritol 318 from Cognis, glyceryl triheptanoate, glycerine trioctanoate, acid triglycerides Ci 8 . 36 such as those marketed under the reference DUB TGI 24 marketed by Stéarineries Dubois), and the unsaturated triglycerides such as castor oil, olive oil, ximenia oil, pracaxi oil.
- Vinvlpyrrolidone / 1-hexadecene copolymers, such as that sold under the name Antaron V-216 (also called Ganex V216) by the company ISP (MW = 7300 g / mol).
- di-alkyl carbonates, the 2 alkyl chains possibly being identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name Cetiol CC®, by Cognis.
- and their mixtures.
Preferably, the polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil (s) are chosen from Cio-C 26 monoalcohols, ester oils, and in particular monoesters comprising at least 17 carbon atoms in total, diesters, hydroxylated or not, comprising at least 18 carbon atoms in total, triesters, in particular having at least 35 carbon atoms, tetraesters, in particular having at least 35 carbon atoms, as well as their mixtures.
According to certain variants of the invention, the non-volatile polar hydrocarbon-based oil is chosen from oils capable of at least partly dissolving the silicone resin, at least partly the silicone polyamide (protocol identical to that of the test described later in the description).
POLAR WAX (S)
As indicated above, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one polar, hydrocarbon or silicone wax, the melting point of which is less than or equal to 90 ° C.
The polar wax considered in the context of the present invention is generally a lipophilic compound solid at room temperature (25 ° C), with reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point in particular greater than or equal at 30 ° C and less than or equal to 90 €, more particularly less than or equal to 80 ° C, and preferably less than or equal to 70 ° C.
The melting point of a solid fatty substance can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "DSC Q100" by the company TA Instruments with the software "TA Universal Analysis >>.
The measurement protocol is as follows:
A sample of solid fat approximately 5 mg is placed in an airtight aluminum capsule crucible
When the solid fatty substance is soft (pasty fatty substance), the sample is subjected to a first temperature rise ranging from 20 ° C. to 80 ° C., at the heating rate of 2 ° C./minute to 80 ° C., then left in the 80 ° C isotherm for 20 minutes, then is cooled from 80 ° C to - 80 ° C at a cooling rate of 2 ° C / minute, and finally subjected to a second temperature rise ranging from - 80 ° C to 20 ° C at a heating rate of 2 ° C / minute.
The value of the melting point of the solid fatty substance is the value of the top of the most endothermic peak of the observed melting curve, representing the variation of the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature. In particular, the polar waxes used in the composition according to the invention have a melting temperature greater than 30 ° C. and better still greater than 45 ° C.
More particularly, the polar wax is chosen from ester hydrocarbon waxes, alcohol hydrocarbon waxes, silicone waxes, and also mixtures thereof.
By “hydrocarbon wax” is meant a wax formed essentially, or even made up, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen, nitrogen atoms, and not containing any silicon atom or fluorine. It can contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups.
By "ester wax" is meant according to the invention a wax comprising at least one ester function. The ester waxes can also be hydroxylated.
By "alcohol wax" is meant according to the invention a wax comprising at least one alcohol function, that is to say comprising at least one free hydroxyl (OH) group. The additional alcohol wax does not in particular include an ester function.
By “silicone wax” is meant an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular comprising Si-O groups.
Ester waxes
One can in particular use as ester wax:
- ester waxes such as those chosen from:
i) waxes of formula R1COOR2 in which Ri and R 2 represent linear aliphatic chains, branched or cyclic where the number of carbon ranges from 10 to 50, may contain a heteroatom, in particular oxygen, and whose point temperature melting ranges from 30 to 120 ° C, preferably from 30 to 100 ° C. In particular, a C 20 -C 40 alkyl stearate (hydroxystearyloxy) stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture, or a C 20 alkyl stearate can be used as ester wax. C 40 . Such waxes are sold in particular under the names “Kester Wax K 82 P®”, “Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®”, “Kester Wax K 80 P®”, or “KESTER WAX K82H >> by the company KOSTER KEUNEN. It is also possible to use mixtures of esters of C14-C18 carboxylic acids and of alcohols such as the products "Cetyl Ester Wax 814 >> from the company KOSTER KEUNEN," SP Crodamol MS MBAL "," Crodamol MS PA >> from CRODA, "Miraceti" from LASERSON.
It is also possible to use a montanate (octacosanoate) of glycol and butylene glycol such as LICOWAX KPS FLAKES wax (INCI name: glycol montanate) sold by the company Clariant.
ii) di- (trimethylol-1,1,1 propane) tetrastearate, sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company HETERENE.
iii) diester waxes of a dicarboxylic acid of general formula R 3 - (- OCO-R 4 -COO-R 5 ), in which R 3 and R 5 are identical or different, preferably identical and represent an alkyl group in C4-C30 (alkyl group comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms) and R 4 represents a C 4 -C 30 aliphatic group (alkyl group comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms) linear or branched and which may or may not contain one or more unsaturations. Preferably, the C 4 -C 30 aliphatic group is linear and unsaturated.
iv) waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having in particular fatty chains, linear or branched, of C 8 -C 32 , for example such as hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, l hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, as well as the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names of Phytowax ricin 16L64® and 22L73® by the company SOPHIM. Such waxes are described in application FR-A-2792190. As waxes obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with stearyl alcohol, mention may be made of those sold under the name "PHYTOWAX Olive 18 L 57".
v) animal or vegetable waxes, such as beeswax, synthetic beeswax, carnauba wax, candellila wax, lanolin wax, rice bran wax, organic wax '' Ouricury, Alfa wax, berry wax, shellac wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax, sumac wax, montan wax, waxes Orange and Lemon, laurel wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, sunflower wax, in particular refined.
vi) Mention may also be made of hydrocarbon, polyoxyalkylenated or polyglycerolated waxes, natural or synthetic, of animal or vegetable origin; the number of oxyalkylenated units (in C2-C4) can vary from 2 to 100, the number of glycerolated units can vary from 1 to 20. By way of example, there may be mentioned polyoxyethylenated beeswaxes, such as PEG- 6 beeswax, PEG-8 beeswax; polyoxyethylenated carnauba waxes, such as PEG-12 carnauba; lanolin waxes, hydrogenated or not, polyoxyethenic or polyoxypropylenated, such as PEG-30 lanolin, PEG-75 lanolin; PPG-5 lanolin wax glyceride; polyglycerolated beeswaxes, in particular polyglyceryl-3 Beewax, Acacia Decurrens / Jojoba / Sunflower Seed Wax / Polyglyceryl-3 Esters mixture, polyglycerolated vegetable waxes such as mimosa, jojoba, sunflower waxes, and mixtures thereof (Acacia Decurrens / Jojoba / Sunflower Seed Wax Polyglyceryl-3 Esters.
vii) Waxes corresponding to partial or total esters, preferably total, of a C 6 -C 30 carboxylic acid, saturated, optionally hydroxylated, with glycerol. By total esters is meant that all of the hydroxyl functions of glycerol are esterified. By way of example, there may be mentioned trihydroxystearine (or glyceryl trihydroxystearate), tristearine (or glyceryl tristearate), tribehenine (or glyceryl tribehenate), alone or as a mixture. Among suitable compounds, there may be mentioned the triesters of glycerol and of 12-hydroxystearic acid, or of hydrogenated castor oil, such as, for example, Thixcin R, Thixcin E, sold by Elementis Specialties.
viii) as well as their mixtures.
Alcohol waxes
Mention may be made, as alcohol wax, of the alcohols, preferably linear, preferably saturated, comprising from 16 to 60 carbon atoms, the melting point of which is between 25 ° C. and 90 ° C. Examples of alcohol wax include stearic alcohol, cetyl alcohol, myristic alcohol, palmitic alcohol, behenic alcohol, erucic alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, or mixtures thereof.
Silicone wax
As silicone wax, mention may be made, for example, of mixtures comprising a compound of type C30-45 Alkyldimethylsilyl Polypropylsilsesquioxane (INCI name), for example the product Dow Corning SW-8005 C30 Resin Wax sold by the company Dow Corning. Mention may also be made of mixtures comprising a compound of the C30-45 Alkyl Methicone type (INCI name), such as for example the product Dow Corning® AMS-C30 Cosmetic Wax. Mention may also be made of silicone beeswax.
The composition according to the invention comprises a content of polar wax (es) of at least 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, it comprises a polar wax (es) content of at least 8% by weight, preferably at least 9% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, it comprises a content of polar wax (es) between 7 and 20%, preferably between 7.5 and 20%, preferably between 8 and 13% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Additional non-polar hydrocarbon waxes
The composition may optionally comprise at least one additional wax chosen from apolar hydrocarbon waxes.
By “apolar hydrocarbon wax”, within the meaning of the present invention, is meant a wax comprising only carbon or hydrogen atoms in its structure. In other words, such a wax is free from other atoms, in particular from hetero atoms such as for example nitrogen, oxygen, silicon.
By way of illustration of apolar waxes suitable for the invention, mention may in particular be made of hydrocarbon waxes such as microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite, polymethylene waxes, polyethylene waxes, the waxes obtained by the synthesis of Fischer-Tropsch, micro-waxes, in particular polyethylene.
Preferably, the additional non-polar hydrocarbon wax is chosen from waxes the melting point of which is in particular greater than or equal to 30 ° C. and less than or equal to 90 ° C., more particularly less than or equal to 80 ° C., and preferably less than or equal to 70 ° C.
If the composition contains it, the content of additional non-polar hydrocarbon wax (es) is such that the total wax content is less than or equal to 20% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, preferably less than or equal to 13% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
According to a very advantageous embodiment, the content of additional non-polar hydrocarbon wax (es) is such that the weight ratio of polar wax (es) / hydrocarbon wax (es) additional apolar (s) is greater than 1.
Preferably, if it contains it, the content of additional non-polar hydrocarbon wax (es) is between 0 and 5% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
ADDITIONAL OILS
In accordance with a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one additional oil chosen from silicone oils, volatile or non-volatile, apolar hydrocarbon oils, volatile or non-volatile, as well as their mixtures.
According to this particularly advantageous embodiment of the invention, the content of additional oil (s) represents from 1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 3 to 25% by weight, preferably from 5 to 20% by weight , and even more preferably from 7 to 20% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
A first embodiment of the invention is represented by a composition comprising at least one additional non-volatile silicone or nonpolar hydrocarbon-based oil, and preferably at least one non-volatile silicone oil, optionally associated with at least one volatile oil, hydrocarbon or silicone, or mixtures thereof.
In this case, the content of volatile oil (s) is more particularly between 0.1 and 15% by weight, more particularly between 1 and 10% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
Preferably, according to this variant, the weight ratio of additional non-volatile oil (s) / volatile oil (s) greater than 1, preferably greater than or equal to 2.
A second embodiment of the invention is represented by a composition not comprising an additional non-volatile oil, but at least one volatile, silicone or hydrocarbon-based oil, or their mixtures.
According to this embodiment, the content of additional volatile oil (s) varies more particularly from 3 and 15% by weight, and preferably between 3 and 8% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition. .
Preferably, according to this particular embodiment, the weight ratio of non-volatile polar oil (s) / additional volatile oil (s) is greater than 1.
Silicone oils
According to a first preferred variant of the invention, the continuous fatty phase comprises at least one silicone oil. This can be a volatile oil or a non-volatile oil.
By “silicone oil” is meant an oil containing at least one silicon atom, and in particular containing Si-O groups.
Preferably, the composition comprises at least one silicone oil capable of at least partly dissolving the silicone resin, at least partly the silicone polyamide.
More particularly, the composition comprises at least one silicone oil, volatile or non-volatile, satisfying the following test:
A mixture of silicone resin and silicone oil is prepared in the following proportions: 25 g resin per 75 g of oil; the resin and the oil are not transported, diluted or dissolved before the test. The mixing is carried out with stirring for 2 hours, at a temperature between 20 ° C. and the glass transition temperature of the compound associated with the oil, here the resin (determination by differential scanning calorimetry - DSC).
It is said that the silicone oil at least partially solubilizes the silicone resin when the viscosity of the silicone oil alone is lower than that of the mixture of silicone oil and silicone resin, measured at 20 ° C. and atmospheric pressure (viscosity measurement carried out using a RHEOMAT RM 100 viscometer equipped with a mobile no. 2, 3 or 4, according to the supplier's recommendations, the measurement being made after 10 minutes of rotation of the mobile within the mixture).
In accordance with an even more preferred embodiment, an oil is chosen whose mixture cited above leads to the production of a homogeneous phase without agglomerate, grains or phase dispersed in the other (observation with the naked eye or under the microscope phase contrast, at room temperature (20 ° C)).
The same test can be carried out with the silicone polyamide.
Preferably, an oil is used which at least partly solubilizes both the silicone resin and the silicone polyamide.
Volatile silicone oils
By volatile oil is meant an oil having a non-zero vapor pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa, in particular ranging from 13,000 Pa, and more particularly ranging from 1,300 Pa.
The volatile silicone oil can be chosen from linear or cyclic silicone oils such as linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) having from 3 to 7 silicon atoms.
Examples of such oils include octyltrimethicone, hexyltrimethicone, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (cyclopentasiloxane or D5), octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (cyclotetradimethylsiloxane or D4), dodecamethylcyclo-hexasiloxane (D6) , polydimethysiloxanes such as those sold under the reference DC 200 (1.5 cSt), DC 200 (5 cSt), DC 200 (3 cSt) by Dow Corning, or also KF 96 A from Shin Etsu; alone or in mixtures.
Non-volatile silicone oils
Among the non-volatile silicone oils which can be used in the present invention, mention may be made, for example, of non-phenylated non-volatile silicone oils and phenylated non-volatile silicone oils.
The silicone oils which can be used within the meaning of the invention advantageously have a molecular mass less than or equal to 150,000 g / mol, preferably less than or equal to 100,000 g / mol, and better still less than or equal to 10,000 g / mol .
Non-phenylated non-volatile silicone oils
The expression “non-phenylated silicone oil” designates a silicone oil not containing phenyl substituents.
Representative examples of these non-volatile non-phenylated silicone oils which may be mentioned include polydimethylsiloxanes; alkyldimethicones; vinylmethylmethicones.
It should be noted that these non-phenylated non-volatile silicone oils do not comprise units of the ethylene oxide, propylene oxide or glycerol type. They are therefore different from the silicone surfactants described above.
Furthermore, the term "dimethicone" (INCI name) corresponds to a polydimethylsiloxane (chemical name).
In particular, these oils can be chosen from the following non-volatile oils:
- polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS),
- alkyldimethicones comprising aliphatic groups, in particular alkyl, or alkoxy, which are pendant and / or at the end of the silicone chain; these groups each comprising from 2 to 24 carbon atoms. By way of example, mention may be made of cetyldimethicone sold under the commercial reference ABIL WAX 9801 from Evonik Goldschmidt,
polydimethylsiloxanes comprising functional groups such as hydroxyl groups,
- polydimethylsiloxanes substituted aliphatic groups, in particular C 2 -C 24 alkyl, pendant and / or at the end of the silicone chain, and by functional groups such as hydroxyl groups,
- their mixtures.
Preferably, these non-phenylated non-volatile silicone oils are chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes; alkyldimethicones and also polydimethylsiloxanes substituted with aliphatic groups, in particular C 2 -C 24 alkyl, and functional groups such as hydroxyl groups.
The non-phenylated non-volatile silicone oil can be chosen in particular from silicones of formula (I):
T
If R2 (i) in which:
- R 15 R 2 , R 5 and R 6 are, together or separately, an alkyl radical containing 6 carbon atoms,
- R 3 and R 4 are, together or separately, an alkyl radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms or a hydroxyl radical,
- X is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical,
- n and p are integers chosen so as to have a fluid compound, in particular whose viscosity at 25 ° C is between sitre 8 centistokes (cSt) (8 x 10 _6 m 2 / s) and 800,000 cSt, advantageously lower at 100,000 cSt, and advantageously a weight-average molecular mass less than or equal to 150,000 g / mol, preferably less than or equal to 100,000 g / mol, and better still less than or equal to 10,000 g / mol.
As non-phenylated non-volatile silicone oils suitable for carrying out the invention, mention may be made of those for which:
the substituents R 1 to R 6 and X represent a methyl group, and p and n are such that the viscosity is 60,000 cSt, for example the product sold under the name Dow Corning 200 Fluid 60000 CS by the company Dow Corning, and the product marketed under the name Wacker Belsil DM 60,000 by the company Wacker,
- the substituents Ri to R 6 and X represent a methyl group, and p and n are such that the viscosity is either 100 cSt, or 350 cSt, for example the products marketed respectively under the names Belsil DM100, Dow Corning 200 Fluid 350 CS, by Dow Corning, and
- the substituents Rt to R 6 represent a methyl group, the group X represents a hydroxyl group, and n and p are such that the viscosity is 700 cSt, for example the product sold under the name Baysilone Fluid T0.7 by Momentive business.
Non-volatile phenylated silicone oils
The expression “phenylated silicone oil” designates a silicone oil having at least one phenyl substituent.
These non-volatile phenylated silicone oils can be chosen from those which also have at least one dimethicone fragment, or from those which do not. Note that the terms "dimethicone fragment" denote a divalent siloxane group in which the silicon atom carries two methyl radicals, this group not being at the ends of the molecule. It can be represented by the following formula: - (Si (CH 3 ) 2 O) -.
The non-volatile phenylated silicone oil can thus be chosen from:
- phenylated silicone oils with or without a dimethicone fragment corresponding to the following formula (I):
R
I RR r - s i— ii
I I R — Si ---- O --- SiR
RR
R — SiO
I
R (l) in which the R groups, monovalent or divalent, represent, independently of each other, a methyl, methylene, phenyl or phenylene, provided that at least one group R represents a phenyl.
Preferably, in this formula, the phenylated silicone oil comprises at least three phenyl groups, for example at least four, at least five or at least six.
- phenylated silicone oils with or without a dimethicone fragment corresponding to the following formula (2):
R RR
I
R --- If ----- O ---- If ----- O ---- SiR
R R R (II) in which the R groups represent, independently of each other, a methyl or a phenyl, provided that at least one R group represents a phenyl.
Preferably, in this formula, the compound of formula (II) comprises at least three phenyl groups, for example at least four or at least five.
Mixtures of different phenylorganopolysiloxane compounds previously described can be used.
Examples which may be mentioned include mixtures of triphenyl-, tetraphenyl- or pentaphenyl-organopolysiloxanes.
Among the compounds of formula (II), there may be mentioned more particularly phenylated silicone oils not having a dimethicone fragment corresponding to formula (II) in which at least 4 or at least 5 radicals R represent a phenyl radical, the radicals remaining representing methyls.
Such non-volatile phenylated silicone oils are preferably trimethylpentaphenyl-trisiloxane, or tetramethyl-tetraphenyl-trisiloxane. They are in particular marketed by Dow Corning under the reference PH-1555 HRI or Dow Corning 555 Cosmetic Fluid (chemical name: 1,3,5-trimethyl-1,1,3,5,5-pentaphenyl-trisiloxane; INCI name: trimethyl-pentaphenyltrisiloxane), or tetramethyl-tetraphenyltrisiloxane marketed under the reference Dow Corning 554 Cosmetic Fluid by Dow Corning can also be used.
They correspond in particular to the following formulas (III) and (III j):
Ph Ph Ph
I I I
Me — If — O — If ~ O — If-Me
Ph Me Ph in which Me represents methyl, Ph represents phenyl.
- phenylated silicone oils having at least one dimethicone fragment corresponding to the following formula (IV):
Me
X --- SiMe
| Me • If — 1—0 i y
Me | Me
Six
Me (iv) in which Me represents methyl, y is between 1 and 1000 and X represents -CH 2 -CH (CH 3 ) (Ph).
- phenylated silicone oils corresponding to formula (V) below, and mixtures of these:
in which :
- Ri to Ri 0 , independently of one another, are saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C 1 -C 30 hydrocarbon radicals,
- m, n, p and q are, independently of each other, integers between 0 and 900, provided that the sum m + n + q is different from 0.
Preferably, the sum m + n + q is between 1 and 100. Advantageously, the sum m + n + p + q is between 1 and 900 and preferably between 1 and 800.
Preferably, q is equal to 0.
More particularly, Rt to R 10 , independently of each other, represent a hydrocarbon radical in CrCso, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, and in particular a hydrocarbon radical, preferably saturated, in C r C 20 , in particular in CrC ^, or a C 6 -C 14 aryl radical and in particular in C 10 -C 13 , monocyclic or polycyclic, or an aralkyl radical preferably of which the alkyl part is in CrCs.
Preferably, Rt to R 10 may each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical, or alternatively a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical. Rt to R 10 may in particular be identical, and in addition may be a methyl radical.
As particular embodiments of formula (V), there may be mentioned:
o phenylated silicone oils which may or may not have at least one dimethicone fragment corresponding to formula (VI) below, and mixtures thereof:

in which :
R 1 to R 6 , independently of one another, are saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C 1 -C 30 hydrocarbon radicals, an aryl radical, preferably C 6 -C 14 , or an aralkyl radical, the part of which alkyl is in CrCs).
m, n and p are, independently of each other, integers between 0 and 100, provided that the sum n + m is between 1 and 100.
Preferably, Rt to R 6 , independently of one another, represent a hydrocarbon radical, preferably alkyl, in particular in C ^ C ^, or a monocyclic C 6 -C 14 aryl radical (preferably in C 6 ) or polycyclic and in particular C 10 -C 13 , or an aralkyl radical (preferably the aryl part is C 6 ; the alkyl part is θ! -Θ 3 ).
Preferably, Rt to R 6 may each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical, or alternatively a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical.
R 1 to R 6 may in particular be identical, and in addition may be a methyl radical. Preferably, m = 1 or 2 or 3, and / or n = 0 and / or p = 0 or 1 can be applied, in formula (VI).
between 1 and 100.
According to a particular embodiment, the non-volatile phenylated silicone oil is chosen from phenylated silicone oils having at least one dimethicone fragment.
Preferably, such oils correspond to compounds of formula (VI) in which:
m = 0 and n and p are independently of each other, integers included
Preferably R 1 to R 6 are methyl radicals.
According to this embodiment, the silicone oil is preferably chosen from a diphenyldimethicone such as KF-54 from Shin Etsu (400 cSt), KF54HV from Shin Etsu (5000 cSt), KF-50-300CS from Shin Etsu (300 cSt ), KF-53 by Shin Etsu (175cSt), KF-50-100CS by Shin Etsu (100 cSt).
p is between 1 and 100, the sum n + m is between 1 and 100, and n = 0.
These phenylated silicone oils which may or may not have at least one dimethicone fragment corresponding more particularly to formula (VII) below:
Me Me OR 'Me
If I] f I] I
Me — If —— O — If —--- HO — If —— O — If — Me | L | PI J m I
Me Me Ph Me in which Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR 'represents a group -OSiMe 3 and p is 0 or is between 1 and 1000, and m is between 1 and 1000. In particular, m and p are such that the compound (VII) is a non-volatile oil.
According to a first embodiment of non-volatile phenylated silicone having at least one dimethicone fragment, p is between 1 and 1000. m is more particularly such that the compound (VII) is a non-volatile oil. It can be used, for example, trimethylsiloxyphenyldimethicone, sold in particular under the reference Belsil PDM 1000 by the company Wacker.
According to a second embodiment of non-volatile phenylated silicone having no dimethicone fragment, p is equal to 0. m is between 1 and 1000, and in particular is such that the compound (VII) is a non-volatile oil.
It can be used, for example, phenyltrimethicone, sold in particular under the reference Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid (DC556).
o non-volatile phenylated silicone oils having no dimethicone fragment corresponding to formula (VIII) below, and mixtures of these:
(CH 3 ) 3 (VIII) in which:
- R, independently of each other, are saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C 1 -C 30 hydrocarbon-based radicals, preferably R is a C 1 -C 30 alkyl radical, an aryl radical, preferably C 6 -C 4, or an aralkyl radical in which the alkyl part is Ci-C 3.
- m and n are, independently of one another, integers between 0 and 100, provided that the sum n + m is between 1 and 100.
Preferably, R, independently of each other, represent a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, preferably saturated, CrCso hydrocarbon radical, preferably saturated, and in particular a Ci 2 o hydrocarbon radical, in particular CrC ^ and more particularly in C 4 -C 10 , a C 6 -C 14 aryl radical monocyclic or polycyclic and in particular in C 10 -C 13 , or an aralkyl radical preferably the aryl part is C 6 and the alkyl part is in CrCs.
Preferably, the Rs can each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical, or alternatively a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical.
The Rs may in particular be identical, and in addition may be a methyl radical.
Preferably, m = 1 or 2 or 3, and / or n = 0 and / or p = 0 or 1 can be applied, in formula (VIII).
According to a preferred embodiment, n is an integer between 0 and 100 and m is an integer between 1 and 100, provided that the sum n + m is between 1 and 100, in formula (VIII). Preferably R is a methyl radical.
According to one embodiment, a phenylated silicone oil of formula (VIII) having a viscosity at 25 ° C of between 5 and 1500 mm 2 / s (that is to say, from 5 to 1500 cSt), and preferably having a viscosity between 5 and 1000 mm 2 / s (that is to say 5 to 1000 cSt) can be used.
According to this embodiment, the non-volatile phenylated silicone oil is preferably chosen from phenyltrimethicones (when n = 0) such as DC556 from Dow Corning (22.5 cSt), or also from diphenylsiloxyphenyltrimethicone oil (when m and n are between 1 and 100) such as KF56 A from Shin Etsu, Silbione oil 70663V30 from Rhône-Poulenc (28 cSt). The values in parentheses represent the viscosities at 25 ° C.
- phenylated silicone oils which may or may not have at least one dimethicone fragment corresponding to the following formula, and mixtures thereof:

(IX) in which:
R b R 2 , R 5 and R 6 are, identical or not, an alkyl radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms,
R 3 and R 4 are, identical or not, an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or an aryl radical (preferably C 6 -Ci 4 ), provided that at least one of R 3 and R 4 is a phenyl radical,
X is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical or a vinyl radical, n and p being an integer greater than or equal to 1, chosen so as to give the oil a weight-average molecular mass of preferably less than 150,000 g / mole and more preferably less than 100,000 g / mole.
- and a mixture of these.
In accordance with a more suitable embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one silicone oil, and preferably at least one non-volatile silicone oil.
More particularly, the non-volatile silicone oil or oils are chosen from phenylated silicone non-volatile oils and even more preferably from non-volatile silicone oils of formula (VI) and more particularly of formulas (VII) and (VIII). Preferably, the composition comprises at least one phenylated silicone non-volatile oil chosen from phenyl trimethicone, diphenylsiloxyphenyltrimethicone, as well as their mixtures.
Apolar hvdrocarbon oils
Apolar non-volatile hydrocarbon oils
The non-volatile nonpolar hydrocarbon-based oil (s) are more particularly chosen from compounds comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms.
Said oils, linear or branched, can be of mineral or synthetic origin such as for example:
- paraffin oil or its derivatives,
- squalane,
- isoeicosan,
- naphthalene oil,
polybutenes, hydrogenated or not, such as, for example, INDOPOL H-100, INDOPOL H-300, INDOPOL H-1500 sold or manufactured by the company AMOCO,
- polyisobutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as for example Parléam® marketed by the company NIPPON OIL FATS, PANALANE H-300 E marketed by the company AMOCO, VISEAL 20000 marketed by the company SYNTEAL, REWOPAL PIB 1000 marketed by the WITCO, or the PARLEAM LITE marketed by NOF Corporation,
- decene / butene copolymers, polybutene / polyisobutene copolymers, in particular Indopol L-14,
- hydrogenated polydecenes and polydecenes such as for example PURESYN 10, PURESYN 150 or even PURESYN 6 sold by EXXONMOBIL CHEMICAL),
- and their mixtures.
Apolar volatile hydrocarbon oils
The volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oils are preferably chosen from non-polar hydrocarbon oils and in particular can be chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and their mixtures, and in particular:
- branched alkanes, C 8 -C 16 isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins) C 8 -C 6, isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names 'Isopars or Peutyls,
- linear alkanes, for example such as n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97, as well as their mixtures, the undecane mixture tridecane (Cetiol UT), the mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13) obtained in examples 1 and 2 of application WO2008 / 155059 from the company Cognis, and
- their mixtures.
PASTY COMPOUNDS (OR PASTY FATTY BODIES)
The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least pasty compound at 23 ° C, hydrocarbon or silicone.
By pasty fatty substance, within the meaning of the present invention, is meant a lipophilic fatty compound with reversible solid / liquid state change, having in the solid state an anisotropic crystalline organization, and comprising at the temperature of 23 ° C. a fraction liquid and a solid fraction.
In other words, the starting melting temperature of the pasty compound can be less than 23 ° C. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 23 ° C can represent 9 to 97% by weight of the compound. This liquid fraction at 23 ° C preferably represents between 15 and 85%, more preferably between 40 and 85% by weight.
The melting point of a solid fatty substance can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "DSC Q100" by the company TA Instruments with the software "TA Universal Analysis ”, according to the protocol defined previously.
The liquid fraction by weight of the pasty compound at 23 ° C is more particularly equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23 ° C to the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound.
The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is the enthalpy consumed by the compound to pass from the solid state to the liquid state. The pasty compound is said to be in the solid state when all of its mass is in crystalline solid form. The pasty compound is said to be in the liquid state when all of its mass is in liquid form.
The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is notably equal to the area under the curve of the thermogram obtained using a differential scanning calorimeter. The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is the amount of energy required to bring the compound from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J / g.
The enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23 ° C is the amount of energy absorbed by the sample to pass from the solid state to the state it presents at 23 ° C consisting of a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.
The pasty compound (s) can (in particular) be chosen from synthetic pasty compounds and fatty substances of vegetable origin. The pasty compound (s) can be hydrocarbon or silicone.
The pasty compound (s) can be chosen in particular from:
- lanolin and its derivatives, such as lanolin alcohol, oxyethylenated lanolines, acetylated lanolin, lanolin esters such as isopropyl lanolate, oxypropylenated lanolines;
- petroleum jelly (also called petrolatum),
- polyol ethers chosen from pentaerythritol and C2-C4 polyalkylene glycol ethers, fatty alcohol and sugar ethers, and mixtures thereof. For example, mention may be made of pentaerythritol ether of polyethylene glycol comprising 5 oxyethylenated units (5 EO) (CTFA name: PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether), pentaerythritol ether of polypropylene glycol comprising 5 oxypropylene units (5 OP) (CTFA name: PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether), and their mixtures and more especially the mixture PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether, PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether and soybean oil, sold under the name "Lanolide" by the company VEVY, mixture where the constituents are found in a weight ratio 46/46/8: 46% of PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether, 46% of PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether and 8% of soybean oil,
- polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds,
- fluorinated compounds, polymeric or not,
- vinyl polymers, in particular:
o homopolymers and copolymers of olefins, o homopolymers and copolymers of hydrogenated dienes, o linear or branched oligomers, homo or copolymers of alkyl (meth) acrylates preferably having a C8-C30 alkyl group, o homo oligomers and copolymers of vinyl esters having C8-C30 alkyl groups, and o homo oligomers and copolymers of vinyl ethers having C8-C30 alkyl groups,
- the liposoluble polyethers resulting from the polyetherification between one or more diols in C2-C100, preferably in C2-C50. Among the liposoluble polyethers, consideration is given in particular to copolymers of ethylene oxide and / or of propylene oxide with long-chain C 6 -C 30 alkylene oxides, more preferably such as the weight ratio of ethylene oxide. and / or propylene oxide with alkylene oxides in the copolymer is 5:95 to 70:30. In this family, mention will be made in particular of copolymers such as long-chain alkylene oxides arranged in blocks having an average molecular weight of 1000 to 10,000, for example a block copolymer of polyoxyethylene / polydodecyl glycol such as dodecanediol ethers (22 mol ) and polyethylene glycol (45 EO) sold under the brand ELFACOS ST9 by AKZO NOBEL.
- esters and polyesters. Among the esters, we consider in particular:
o esters of a glycerol oligomer, in particular diglycerol esters, with mono carboxylic acids, optionally hydroxylated, linear or branched, saturated or not, preferably saturated, with C6-C20, and / or dicarboxylic acids, linear or branched , saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, with C6-C10, in particular the condensates of adipic acid and diglycerol, for which a part of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as stearic acid , capric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, such as, for example, bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 sold under the reference SOFTISAN® 649 by the company Sasol, o vinyl ester homopolymers having C8-C30 alkyl groups, such as polyvinyl laurate (especially sold under the reference Mexomer PP by the company Chimex), o arachidyl propionate marketed under the brand Waxeno l 801 by ALZO, o phytosterol esters, o fatty acid triglycerides and their derivatives, in particular fatty acid triglycerides, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally mono or poly hydroxylated, C6-C30, more particularly C8-C18, optionally hydrogenated (totally or partially); with, for example, Softisan 100® sold by the company Sasol, o pentaerythritol esters, o aliphatic esters resulting from the esterification of an ester of an aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid with an aliphatic carboxylic acid. More particularly, the aliphatic carboxylic acid is C 4 -C 30 , preferably C 8 -C 30 . It is preferably chosen from hexanoic heptanoic, octanoic, 2-ethylhexanoic, nonanoic, decanoic, undecanoic, dodecanoic, tridecanoic, tetradecanoic, pentadecanoic, hexadecanoic, hexyldecanoic, heptadecanoic, octadecanoic, isadecanic, isostic and docosanoic, and mixtures thereof. The aliphatic carboxylic acid is preferably branched. The hydroxycarboxylic acid ester is advantageously derived from a C2-C40, preferably C10 - C34, and even more preferably C12 - C28 hydroxylated carboxylic acid; the number of hydroxyl groups being between 1 and 20, more particularly between 1 and 10, preferably between 1 and 6.
Said hydroxycarboxylic acid esters are preferably chosen from:
a) total or partial esters of saturated, linear and monohydroxylated aliphatic monocarboxylic acids;
b) total or partial esters of monocarboxylic, saturated, monohydroxylated aliphatic acids;
c) total or partial esters of monohydroxylated saturated polycarboxylic aliphatic acids;
d) total or partial esters of polyhydroxylated saturated polycarboxylic aliphatic acids;
e) partial or total esters of esters of aliphatic polyols C 2 -Ci 6 with one of mono or polyhydroxylated aliphatic acid or polycarboxylic acid
f) mixtures thereof.
o the esters of dimer diol and dimer diacid, where appropriate, esterified on their alcohol (s) or free acid (s) function (s) with acid or alcohol radicals, in particular the dimeroleate dimer esters; such esters can in particular be chosen from the esters of the following INCI nomenclature: bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate (Plandool G), phytosteryl / isosteryl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl dimer dilinoleate (Plandool H or Plandool S ) and their mixtures, o hydrogenated rosin esters (Lusplan DD-DHR or DD-DHR from Nippon Fine Chemical)
- butters of vegetable origin such as mango butter, such as that sold under the reference Lipex 203 by the company AARHUSKARLSHAMN, shea butter, in particular that whose INCI name is Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, such as that sold under Sheasoft® reference by AARHUSKARLSHAMN, cupuacu butter (Rain forest RF3410 from Beraca Sabara), murumuru butter (RAIN FOREST RF3710 from Beraca Sabara), cocoa butter, babassu butter such as that marketed under the name Cropure Babassu SS- (LK) by Croda, as well as orange wax such as, for example, that which is marketed under the reference Orange Peel Wax by the company Koster Keunen,
- totally or partially hydrogenated vegetable oils, such as for example hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, mixtures of hydrogenated vegetable oils such as the mixture of hydrogenated vegetable oil soy, copra, palm and rapeseed, for example the mixture marketed under the reference Akogel® by the company AARHUSKARLSHAMN (name INCI Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), the partially hydrogenated isomerized jojoba oil trans manufactured or marketed by the company Desert Whale under the reference commercial lso-Jojoba-50®, partially hydrogenated olive oil such as, for example, the compound sold under the reference Beurrolive by the company Soliance,
- esters of hydrogenated castor oil, such as dimer dilinoleate hydrogenated castor oil for example RISOCAST-DA-L sold by KOKYU ALCOHOL KOGYO, hydrogenated castor oil isostearate for example SALACOS HCIS (VL) sold by NISSHIN OIL,
- and their mixtures.
Preferably, the pasty compound (s) suitable for the implementation of the invention is (are) chosen (s) from hydrocarbon compounds, in particular chosen from petrolatum, polyol ethers, vinyl polymers, liposoluble polyethers resulting from the polyetherification between one or more C2-C50 diols, esters and polyesters, butters of vegetable origin, fully or partially hydrogenated vegetable oils, and their mixtures.
In accordance with an even more preferred embodiment of the invention, the pasty compound (s) are chosen from
- petroleum jelly;
- pentaerythritol and C2-C4 polyalkylene glycol ethers;
- fatty alcohol and sugar ethers;
- copolymers of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with long chain C 6 -C 30 alkylene oxides;
- the esters of a glycerol oligomer, in particular the diglycerol esters, with mono carboxylic acids, optionally hydroxylated, linear or branched, saturated or not, preferably saturated, with C6-C20, and / or dicarboxylic acids, linear or branched , saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, with C6-C10; in particular BIS-DIGLYCERYL POLYACYLADIPATE-2 (INCI name), - vinyl ester homopolymers having C8-C30 alkyl groups;
- arachidyl propionate;
- triglycerides of fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally mono or poly hydroxylated, C6-C30, more particularly C8-C18, optionally hydrogenated;
- pentaerythritol esters;
- the non-crosslinked esters obtained by condensation of a linear or branched C 4 -C 50 di- or poly-carboxylic acid and of a C 2 -C 50 diol or polyol, the aliphatic esters obtained by reaction of a ester of a hydroxycarboxylic acid and an aliphatic carboxylic acid; advantageously the carboxylic acid is C4-C30,
- the dimer diol and dimer diacid esters, such as the dilinoleate dimer esters;
- butters of vegetable origin,
- partially hydrogenated vegetable oils,
- and their mixtures.
According to one embodiment, the composition comprises less than 10% by weight, preferably less than 7%, better still less than 5%, and even better still less than 3% by weight of pasty fatty substance, relative to the total weight of the composition.
AQUEOUS DISPERSE PHASE
The composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous medium, constituting an aqueous phase, which forms the dispersed phase of the composition. The composition according to the invention is indeed a water-in-oil emulsion.
The aqueous phase can consist essentially of water; it can also comprise a mixture of water and water-miscible solvent (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25 ° C) such as lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol, isopropanol, glycols having 2 to 8 carbon atoms such as propylene glycol, ethylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.
The composition preferably comprises a water content representing at least 7% by weight, preferably a content ranging from 7% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Advantageously, the water of the aqueous phase is present in an amount of between 7 and 30% by weight, preferably between 10 and 30% by weight, preferably between 15 and 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. .
According to one embodiment, the composition can comprise at least 60% by weight of water, preferably at least 70% by weight, and in particular at least 75% by weight, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase.
The composition according to the invention can comprise, in addition to the compounds described above, water-in-oil surfactants, pasty compounds, oils (silicone and / or volatile non-silicone), thickeners of aqueous phase and their mixtures. It is understood that the quantity of these additional compounds can be adjusted by a person skilled in the art so as not to harm the effect sought in the context of the present invention.
WATER-IN-OIL SURFACTANTS
The compositions of the invention may comprise surfactants of the water-in-oil type. Preferably, the surfactant has an HLB (hydrophilic / lipophilic balance) less than or equal to 8, more particularly less than or equal to 7, preferably between 1 and 6. Preferably, it is nonionic. The HLB value according to GRIFFIN is defined in J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (volume 5), pages 249-256.
Preferably, the surfactant (s) are chosen from silicone-based nonionic surfactants, from hydrocarbon-based nonionic surfactants, or from their mixtures.
Silicone surfactants
With regard to silicone surfactants, mention may be made of alkyl or alkoxy dimethicone copolyols with an alkyl or alkoxy chain hanging or at the end of the silicone skeleton having for example from 6 to 22 carbon atoms; dimethicone copolyols, which are more particularly oxypropylenated and / or oxyethylenated polydimethyl methyl siloxanes, as well as crosslinked elastomeric solid organopolysiloxanes comprising at least one oxyalkylenated group, and their mixtures.
By way of example of alkyl or alkoxy dimethicone copolyols, mention may be made of the compounds of formula (I) below:
in which:
- PE represents (-C 2 H 4 O) x - (C 3 H 6 O) y -R, R being chosen from a hydrogen atom and an alkyl radical of 1 to 4 carbon atoms, x ranging from 0 to 100 and y going from 0 to 80, x and y not being simultaneously 0; preferably R represents a hydrogen atom;
- m ranging from 1 to 40; preferably from 1 to 10;
- n ranging from 10 to 200; preferably from 10 to 100;
- o ranging from 1 to 100; preferably from 1 to 30;
- p ranging from 5 to 21, more particularly 7 to 21;
- q ranging from 0 to 4, preferably from 1 to 3.
As examples of dimethicone copolyols, those corresponding more particularly to the following formula (II) can be used:
CH „CH 3
I 3 | 3
FT - SiO —P Si ol— 1 ' L i J A ch 3 ch 3
CH „
I
If FL
I 3 ch 3 (II) in which:
- R b R 2 , R 3 , independently of one another, represent a C 1 -C 6 alkyl radical or a radical - (CH 2 ) X - (OCH 2 CH 2 ) y - (OCH 2 CH 2 CH2) z - OR 4 , at least one radical R b R 2 or R 3 not being an alkyl radical; R 4 being hydrogen, a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical or a C 2 -C 4 acyl radical;
- A is an integer ranging from 0 to 200;
- B is an integer ranging from 0 to 50; provided that A and B are not equal to zero at the same time;
- x is an integer ranging from 1 to 6;
- y is an integer ranging from 1 to 30; and
- z is an integer ranging from 0 to 30, preferably ranging from 0 to 20.
Among the particularly preferred silicone surfactants, there may be mentioned:
- dimethicone copolyols such as, for example, those sold under the names KF-6015 (PEG-3 dimethicone), KF-6016 (PEG-9 methyl ether dimethicone), KF-6017 (PEG-10 dimethicone), KF-6028 ( PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone), KF-6050 L (PEG / PPG 18/18 dimethicone in cyclopentasiloxane), by the company Shin-Etsu; dimethicone copolyols marketed under the names Dow Corning 3225C® (PEG / PPG-18/18 DIMETHICONE in a mixture of cyclotetrasiloxane and cyclopentasiloxane), DC 5225 C Formulation Aid (PEG / PPG-18/18 dimethicone in cyclopentasiloxane); or the product sold under the name SF 1528 GE (mixture of PEG / PPG-20/15 Dimethicone and cyclopentasiloxane) by Momentive Performance Materials.
One can also use alkyl dimethicone copolyols such as Lauryl PEG / PPG-18/18 Methicone (which is more particularly an alkoxylated derivative of Lauryl Methicone containing on average 18 moles of ethylene oxide and 18 moles of oxide propylene, sold under the name Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid by the company Dow Corning; cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 Dimethicone (which is more particularly a copolymer of Cetyl Dimethicone and an alkoxylated derivative of dimethicone containing on average 10 moles ethylene oxide and 1 mole of propylene oxide) such as the product sold under the name Abil EM 90 by the company Evonik Goldschmidt as well as the mixture of cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 Dimethicone, of polyglycerol isostearate (4 moles) and of hexyl laurate sold under the name ABIL WE 09 by the company Evonik
Goldschmidt.
Mention may also be made, as surfactants of emulsions, in particular for water-in-oil emulsions, of organopolysiloxane crosslinked solid elastomers comprising at least one oxyalkylenated group, such as those obtained according to the procedure of Examples 3, 4 and 8 of document US-A-5,412,004 and examples of document US-A-5,811,487, in particular the product of example 3 (synthetic example) of patent US-A-5,412,004, and such as that marketed under the reference KSG 21 by Shin Etsu company.
Preferably, the composition comprises, as silicone surfactant (s), C8-C22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol such as cetyl dimethicone copolyol, in particular whose INCI name is CETYL PEG / PPG-10/1 DIMETHICONE, dimethicone copolyols such as for example PEG-10 dimethicone, PEG / PPG 18/18 dimethicone, as well as their mixtures. It is also possible to use a mixture of cetyl dimethicone copolyol with polyglyceryl-4-isostearate and hexylaurate, such as the product sold under the name Abil WE-09 by the company Evonik Goldschmidt (the INCI name is polyglyceryl-4-isostearate (and) hexylaurate ( and) cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 dimethicone).
Hydrocarbon surfactants
The nonionic surfactants can be chosen in particular from alkyl (C 8 -C 30 ) ethers of poly (ethylene oxide), alkyl (C 8 -C 30 ) - and polyalkyl (C 8 -C 30 ) -esters of 'ethylene oxide, propylene oxide, poly (ethylene oxide) or poly (propylene oxide); polyesters of fatty acid, preferably polyhydroxylated, C 12 -C 20 , polyoxyalkylenated, having from 4 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide; sorbitan alkyl and polyalkyl esters; (poly) glycerol alkyl and polyalkyl esters and mixtures thereof.
As alkyl (C 8 -C 30 ) - poly (ethylene oxide) ethers, those having a number of ethylene oxide (EO) units ranging from 2 to 4 are preferably used. , there may be mentioned in particular laureth-2; steareth-2, oleth-2; oleth-3; ceteth-2; ceteareth-3.
As alkyl (C 8 -C 30 ) - and polyalkyl (C 8 -C 30 ) - esters of ethylene oxide, propylene, poly (ethylene oxide) or poly (propylene oxide), preferably those having a number of ethylene oxide (EO) units ranging from 1 to 5, with, for example, glycol distearate, glycol stearate, PEG-2 oleate; EPG-3 oleate; the
PEG-4 dilaurate, propylene glycol isostearate; PEG-2.5 beaver oil; PEG-3 beaver oil.
As other surfactants which can be used, polyesters of fatty acid, preferably polyhydroxylated, C12-C20, polyoxyalkylenated, having 4 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide, having water-in-oil emulsifying properties, may be mentioned. In particular, these polymers are block polymers, preferably of ABA structure, comprising poly (hydroxylated ester) blocks and polyethylene glycol blocks. The fatty acid of said emulsifying polymer as defined above preferably has from 14 to 18 carbon atoms. The esters can in particular be chosen from oleates, palmitates or stearates. The polyethylene glycol blocks of said emulsifying polymer as defined above preferably comprise from 20 to 40 moles of ethylene oxide. A polymeric surfactant which is particularly suitable for producing the compositions of the invention is polyethylene glycol di-polyhydroxystearate with 30 EO sold under the trade name Arlacel P 135 by the company Croda.
As sorbitan (C 8 -C 30 ) alkyl and poly (C 8 -C 30 ) alkyls, there may be mentioned in particular sorbitan trioleate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan oleate, sorbitan palmitate; sorbitan stearate, sorbitan isostearate, mixtures of sorbitan stearate and sucrose cocoate or else sorbitan and glycerol isostearate (Arlacel 986 sold by the company Croda), and their mixtures.
As (C 8 -C 30 ) alkyl and (C 8 -C 30 ) alkyl (poly) glycerol esters, those having a number of glycerol units ranging from 1 to 4 are preferably used. polyglyceryl-4 isostearate (Isolan Gl 34 sold by the company Evonik Goldschmidt); polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate (LAMEFORM TGI sold by the company Cognis), glyceryl stearate, glyceryl laurate, alone or in mixtures.
According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition comprises at least one nonionic silicone surfactant.
Advantageously, the silicone surfactant (s) are chosen from the dimethicone copolyols, the alkyl dimethicone copolyols described above, in particular the C 8 -C 22 alkyl dimethicone copolyols in particular of formula (I), alone or as mixtures.
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition also comprises at least one nonionic hydrocarbon surfactant, most particularly the alkyl- and polyalkylesters of (poly) glycerol and / or sorbitan, and preferably polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, sorbitan isostearate or sorbitan and glycerol isostearate.
The surfactant (s) may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, and preferably ranging from 0.5 to 15%, preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, relative to the weight total of the composition.
Hydrophilic thickeners
The composition according to the invention can comprise at least one hydrophilic thickening polymer (also called thickening polymer for the aqueous phase).
Preferably, the composition is such that the hydrophilic thickening polymer is present in a content ranging from 0.02 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.05 to 7% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
More particularly, this thickening polymer can be chosen from:
- homo- or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid or their salts and their esters and in particular the products sold under the names VERSICOL F or VERSICOL K by the company ALLIED COLLOID, UTRAHOLD 8 by the company CIBA-GEIGY, polyacrylic acids of SYNTHALEN K type, and the salts, especially of sodium, of polyacrylic acid (corresponding to the name INCI sodium acrylate copolymer) and more particularly a crosslinked sodium polyacrylate (corresponding to the name INCI sodium acrylate copolymer (and) caprylic / capric triglyceride) sold under the name LUVIGEL EM,
- copolymers of acrylic acid and acrylamide such as those sold in the form of their sodium salt under the names RETEN by the company HERCULES, the sodium polymethacrylate sold under the name DARVAN No. 7 by the company VANDERBILT, sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids sold under the name HYDAGEN F by the company HENKEL,
- polyacrylic acid / alkyl acrylate copolymers, preferably carboxyvinyl polymers modified or not, very particularly preferred according to the present invention, acrylate / C10-C30-alkylacrylate copolymers (INCI name Acrylates / C 10-30 Alkyl acrylate Crosspolymer ) such as the products marketed by Lubrizol under the trade names PEMULEN TR1, PEMULEN TR2, CARBOPOL 1382, CARBOPOL EDT 2020 and even more preferably PEMULEN TR-2,
- homopolymers and copolymers based on acrylamido propanesulfonic acid, such as for example:
- polyacrylamidomethyl propane sulfonic acid partially neutralized with ammonia and highly crosslinked, sold in particular by the company CLARIANT, for example under the name HOSTACERIN AMPS
- the copolymers of acrylamidomethyl propane sulfonic acid / acrylamide, for example of the SEPIGEL or SIMULGEL type sold in particular by the company SEPPIC,
- the copolymers of acrylamidomethyl propane sulfonic acid / polyoxyethylenated alkyl methacrylates (crosslinked or not), inter alia of the ARISTOFLEX HMS, ARISTOFLEX TAC type, sold by the company CLARIANT,
- the copolymers of acrylamidomethyl propane sulfonic acid and of hydroxyethyl acrylate, such as for example the copolymer of acrylamidomethyl propane sulfonic acid / hydroxyethyl acrylate such as in particular that used in the commercial product sold under the name SIMULGEL NS by the company SEPPIC, or else the copolymer of acrylamidomethyl propane sulfonic acid / hydroxyethyl acrylate such as in particular that used in the commercial product sold under the name SEPINOV EMT 10 sold by the company SEPPIC (INCI name: HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE / SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER);
- and their mixtures.
As other examples of hydrophilic thickening polymers, mention may be made of:
- anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic chitin or chitosan polymers;
- cellulose polymers, in particular distinct from alkylcellulose, chosen from hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, as well as quaternized derivatives of cellulose;
- vinyl polymers, such as polyvinylpyrrolidones, copolymers of methyl vinyl ether and malic anhydride, the copolymer of vinyl acetate and crotonic acid, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate; vinylpyrrolidone and caprolactam copolymers; polyvinyl alcohol;
- polymers of natural origin, possibly modified, such as: galactomannans and their derivatives, such as Konjac gum, Gellan gum, Carob gum, Fenugreek gum, Karaya gum, Tragacanth, gum arabic, acacia gum, guar gum, hydroxypropylguar, hydroxypropylguar modified by sodium methylcarboxylate groups (Jaguar XC97-1, Rhodia), guar chloride hydroxypropyl trimethyl ammonium, gum xanthan and xanthan derivatives;
- alginates and carrageenans;
- muccopolysaccharides such as hyaluronic acid, chondroitin sulfates;
- and their mixtures.
According to a preferred embodiment, the thickening polymer is a copolymer of acrylamido propane sulfonic acid, and in particular a copolymer of acrylamidomethyl propane sulfonic acid and hydroxyethyl acrylate.
Coloring matters
According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention can also contain at least one coloring agent which can be chosen from water-soluble or liposoluble dyes, pigments, nacres and their mixtures.
The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more coloring materials chosen from water-soluble or liposoluble dyes, and pulverulent coloring materials such as pigments, nacres and flakes well known to those skilled in the art. The coloring matters can be present, in the composition, in a content ranging from 0.01% to 25% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, preferably from 0.01% to 20% by weight.
The term “dyes” should be understood to mean generally organic compounds which are soluble in fatty substances such as oils or in an aqueous or hydroalcoholic phase.
The water-soluble dyes used according to the invention are more particularly water-soluble dyes.
By "water-soluble dye" is meant within the meaning of the invention, any compound generally organic, natural or synthetic, soluble in an aqueous phase or solvents miscible with water and capable of coloring. In particular, the term “water-soluble” is intended to characterize the ability of a compound to dissolve in water, measured at 25 ° C., at a concentration at least equal to 0.1 g / l (obtaining of a macroscopically isotropic and transparent solution, colored or not). This solubility is in particular greater than or equal to 1 g / l.
As water-soluble dyes suitable for the invention, mention may in particular be made of synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes such as, for example, DC Red 6 (Lithol Rubine Na; Cl: 15850), DC Red 22 (Cl: 45380), DC Red 28 (Cl: 45410, Na salt), DC Red 30 (Cl: 73360), DC Red 33 (Cl: 17200), DC Red 40 (Cl: 16035), FDC Yellow 5 (Cl: 19140 ), FDC Yellow 6 (Cl: 15985), DC Yellow 8 (Cl: 45350 Sel Na), FDC Green 3 (Cl: 42053), DC Green 5 (Cl: 61570), FDC Blue 1 (Cl : 42090).
By way of illustration and without limitation of sources of water-soluble coloring matter (s) capable of being used in the context of the present invention, mention may be made in particular of those of natural origin, such as extracts carmine, cochineal, beet, grape, carrot, tomato, annatto, paprika, henna, caramel and curcumin.
Thus, the water-soluble coloring matters which are suitable for the invention are in particular carminic acid, betanin, anthocyanins, enocyanins, lycopene, bixin, norbixin, capsanthyne, capsorubin, flovoxanthin, lutein, cryptoxanthin , rubixanthin, violaxanthin, riboflavin, roudoxanthin, cantaxanthin, chlorophyll, and mixtures thereof.
It can also be copper sulphate, iron, water-soluble sulphopolyesters, rhodamine, betaine, methylene blue, disodium salt of tartrazine and disodium salt of fuschine.
Some of these water-soluble coloring matters are in particular approved for food. As a representative of these dyes, mention may more particularly be made of dyes of the carotenoid family, referenced under the food codes E120, E162, E163, E160a-g, E150a, E101, E100, E140 and E141.
According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the water-soluble coloring matter (s) are chosen from the sodium salts of Yellow 6, Yellow 5, Red 6, Red 33, Red 40.
Among the liposoluble dyes, mention may be made particularly of red
Sudan, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, β-carotene, brown Sudan, DC Yellow 11,
DC Violet 2, DC Orange 4 (Cl: 15510, Na salt), DC Orange 5, quinoline yellow,
Red 21, Red 27 and beta-carotene.
The term “pigments” should be understood to mean white or colored, mineral or organic particles, insoluble in an aqueous solution, intended to color and / or opacify the resulting film.
The pigments can be present in an amount of 0.01 to 25% by weight, in particular from 0.01 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. The pigments can be chosen from mineral pigments, organic pigments, and composite pigments (that is to say pigments based on mineral and / or organic materials).
The pigments can be chosen from monochrome pigments, lacquers, nacres, pigments with optical effects, such as reflective pigments and goniochromatic pigments.
The mineral pigments can be chosen from metallic oxide pigments, chromium oxides, iron oxides, titanium dioxide, zinc oxides, cerium oxides, zirconium oxides, manganese violet, Prussian blue, ultramarine blue, ferric blue, and their mixtures.
It may also be a pigment having a structure which may, for example, be of the sericite / brown iron oxide / titanium dioxide / silica type. Such a pigment is sold, for example, under the reference COVERLEAF NS or JS by the company CHEMICALS AND CATALYSTS and has a contrast ratio close to 30.
The coloring matter may also comprise a pigment having a structure which may, for example, be of the silica microsphere type containing iron oxide. An example of a pigment having this structure is that sold by the company MIYOSHI under the reference PC BALL PC-LL-100 P, this pigment consisting of silica microspheres containing yellow iron oxide.
The organic pigments can be for example:
- cochineal carmine,
- organic pigments of azo, anthraquinone, indigo, xanthenic, pyrenic, quinolinic, triphenylmethane, fluorane dyes;
- organic lacquers or insoluble salts of sodium, potassium, calcium, barium, aluminum, zirconium, strontium, titanium, acid dyes such as azo, anthraquinone, indigo, xanthene, pyrenic, quinolinic dyes , triphenylmethane, fluorane. These dyes generally comprise at least one carboxylic or sulfonic acid group;
- melanin pigments.
Among the organic pigments, we can cite D&C Blue n ° 4, D&C Brown n ° 1, D&C Green n ° 5, D&C Green n ° 6, D&C Orange n ° 4P & C Orange n ° 5, D&C Orange n ° 10, D&C Orange n ° 11, D&C Red n ° 7 (Calciurrdu Lithol Rubine salt), D&C Red n ° 17, D&C Red n ° 21, D&C Red n ° 22, D&C Red n ° 27, D&C Red 628, D&C Red n ° 30, D&C Red n ° 31, D&C Red n ° 33, D&C Red n ° 34, D&C Red n ° 36, D & G / iolet n ° 2, D&C Yellow n ° 7, D&C Yellow n ° 8, D&C Yellow n ° 10 , D&C Yellow n ° 11, D&C Blue n ° 1, FD&C Green n ° 3, FD&C Red n ° 40, FD&C Yellow n ° 5, FD&C Yellow n ° 6.
Among the organic lakes, mention may be made of organic lakes supported by an organic support such as rosin or aluminum benzoate, for example. Preferably, among the organic lacquers, mention may be made in particular of those known under the following names: D&C Red n ° 2 Aliminium lake, D&C Red n ° 3 Aluminum lake, D&C Red n ° 4 Aluminum lake, D&C Red n ° 6 Aluminum lake, D&C Red n ° 6 Barium lake, D&C Red n ° 6 Barium / Strontium laie, D&C Red n ° 6 Strontium lake, D&C Red n ° 6 Potassium lake, D&C Red n ° 7 Aluminumlake, D&C Red n ° 7 Barium lake , D&C Red n ° 7 Calcium lake, D&C Red n ° 7 Calcium / Stontium lake, D&C Red n ° 7 Zirconium lake, D&C Red n ° 8 Sodium lake, D&C Red n ° 9 Aluminum lake, D&C Red n ° 9 Barium lake , D&C Red n ° 9 Barium / Strontium lake, D8C Red n ° 9 Zirconium lake, D&C Red n ° 10 Sodium lake, D&C Red n ° 19 Aluminum lake D&C Red n ° 19 Barium lake, D&C Red n ° 19 Zirconium lake, D&C Red n ° 21 Alumiriiim lake, D&C Red n ° 21 Zirconium lake, D&C Red n ° 22 Aluminum lake, D&C Fted n ° 27 Aluminum lake, D&C Red n ° 27 Aluminum / Titanium / Zirconium lake, D&C Red n ° 27 Barium lake, D&C Red n ° 27 Calcium lake, D&C Red n ° 27 Zirconium lake, D&C Red n ° 28 Aluminum lake, D&C Red n ° 30 lake, D&C Red n ° 31 Calcium lake, D&C Red n ° 33 Aluminum lake, D&C Red n ° 34 Calcium lake, D&C Red n ° 36 lake, D&C Red n ° 40 Aluminum lake, D&C Blue n ° 1 Aluminum lake, D&C Green n ° 3 Aluminum lake, D & COrange n ° 4 Aluminum lake, D&C Orange n ° 5 Aluminum lake, D&C Orange n ° 5 Zircoriiim lake, D&C Orange n ° 10 Aluminum lake, D&C Orange n ° 17 Barium lake, D&C Yellow n ° 5 Aluminum lake, D&C Yellow n ° 5 Zirconium lake, D&C Yellow n ° 6 Alumiriiim lake, D&C Yellow n ° 7 Zirconium lake, D&C Yellow n ° 10 Aluminum lake, FD&C Blue n ° 1 Aluminum lake, FD&C Red n ° 4 Aluminum lake, FD&C Red n ° 40 Aluminum lake, FD & CYellow n ° 5 Aluminum lake and FD&C Yellow n ° 6 Aluminum lake .
The pigments can be treated with a hydrophobic agent.
The hydrophobic treatment agent can be chosen from silicones such as methicones, dimethicones, perfluoroalkylsilanes; fatty acids such as stearic acid; metallic soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, aluminum salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate, perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoroalkyl silanes, perfluoroalkyl silazanes, polyoxides of hexafluoropropylene, polyorganosiloxanes comprising perfluoroalkyl groups perfluoropolyethers, amino acids ; N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin, isopropyl trisostearyl titanate, and mixtures thereof.
The N-acylated amino acids can comprise an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as for example a 2-ethyl hexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, cocoyl group. The salts of these compounds can be the aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zin, sodium, potassium salts. The amino acid can be for example lysine, glutamic acid, alanine.
The term alkyl mentioned in the compounds mentioned above denotes in particular an alkyl group having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably having from 5 to 16 carbon atoms.
Hydrophobic treated pigments are in particular described in application EP-A-1086683.
By "nacres", it is necessary to understand colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, in particular produced by certain molluscs in their shell or else synthesized and which exhibit a color effect by optical interference.
The nacres can be chosen from pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with a dye organic as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. It can also be mica particles on the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic coloring matters.
As an example of nacres, mention may also be made of natural mica coated with titanium oxide, iron oxide, natural pigment or bismuth oxychloride.
Among the nacres available on the market, there can be mentioned TIMICA, FLAMENCO and DUOCHROME (on mica) nacres marketed by ENGELHARD, TIMIRON nacres marketed by MERCK, PRESTIGE mica nacres marketed by company ECKART and nacres based on SUNSHINE synthetic mica sold by the company SUN CHEMICAL.
The nacres can more particularly have a yellow or pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or coppery color or reflection.
By way of illustration of the nacres which can be used in the context of the present invention, mention may be made in particular of the gold-colored nacres sold in particular by the company ENGELHARD under the name of Brillant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); the bronze nacres sold in particular by the company MERCK under the name Bronze fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by the company ENGELHARD under the name Super bronze (Cloisonne); the orange nacres sold in particular by the company ENGELHARD under the name Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by the company MERCK under the name Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte orange (17449) (Microna); the brown-colored nacres sold in particular by the company ENGELHARD under the name Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); copper-reflective nacres sold in particular by ENGELHARD under the name Copper 340A (Timica); mother-of-pearl with a red reflection, in particular sold by the company MERCK under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona); the yellow-reflective nacres sold in particular by the company ENGELHARD under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); the red-tinted pearls with a gold reflection, in particular sold by the company ENGELHARD under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); pink mother-of-pearl in particular sold by ENGELHARD under the name Tan opal G005 (Gemtone); black mother-of-pearl with gold reflection in particular marketed by ENGELHARD under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica), blue mother-of-pearl in particular marketed by MERCK under the name Matte blue (17433) (Microna), white mother-of-pearl with reflection silvery in particular marketed by the company MERCK under the name Xirona Silver and the pinkish-orange pinkish-green mother-of-pearl in particular marketed by the company MERCK under the name Indian summer (Xirona) and their mixtures.
The cosmetic composition according to the invention may also contain at least one material with a specific optical effect.
This effect is different from a simple conventional color effect, that is to say, unified and stabilized as produced by conventional coloring materials such as, for example, monochromatic pigments. Within the meaning of the invention, "stabilized" means devoid of color variability effect with the angle of observation or even in response to a change in temperature.
For example, this material can be chosen from particles with a metallic reflection, goniochromatic coloring agents, diffracting pigments, thermochromic agents, optical brighteners, as well as fibers, in particular interference fibers. Of course, these different materials can be combined so as to provide the simultaneous manifestation of two effects, or even of a new effect in accordance with the invention.
The particles with a metallic reflection which can be used in the invention are in particular chosen from:
particles of at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative, particles comprising a substrate, organic or inorganic, single-material or multi-material, covered at least partially by at least one layer with metallic reflection comprising at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative, and mixtures of said particles.
Among the metals which may be present in said particles, there may be mentioned for example Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Ni, Sn, Mg, Cr, Mo, Ti, Zr, Pt, Va, Rb, W, Zn, Ge, Te , Se and their mixtures or alloys. Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Zn, Ni, Mo, Cr, and their mixtures or alloys (e.g. bronzes and brasses) are preferred metals.
By "metallic derivatives" is meant compounds derived from metals, in particular oxides, fluorides, chlorides and sulfides
By way of illustration of these particles, mention may be made of aluminum particles, such as those marketed under the names STARBRITE 1200 EAC® by the company SIBERLINE and METALURE® by the company ECKART.
Mention may also be made of metallic copper powders or alloy mixtures such as the references 2844 sold by the company RADIUM BRONZE, metallic pigments such as aluminum or bronze, such as those sold under the names ROTOSAFE 700 from the company ECKART , aluminum particles coated with silica sold under the name VISIONAIRE BRIGHT SILVER from the company ECKART and metal alloy particles such as bronze powders (copper and zinc alloy) coated with silica sold under the name Visionaire Bright Natural Gold from Eckart.
It may also be particles comprising a glass substrate such as those sold by the company NIPPON SHEET GLASS under the names MICROGLASS METASHINE.
The goniochromatic coloring agent can be chosen, for example, from multilayer interference structures and liquid crystal coloring agents.
Examples of symmetrical interference multilayer structures which can be used in compositions produced in accordance with the invention are for example the following structures: AI / SiO 2 / AI / SiO 2 / AI, pigments having this structure being sold by the company DUPONT DE NEMOURS; Cr / MgF 2 / AI / MgF 2 / Cr, pigments having this structure being sold under the name CHROMAFLAIR by the company FLEX; MoS 2 / Si0 2 / AI / Si0 2 / MoS 2 ; Fe 2 O 3 / SiO2 / AI / SiO2 / Fe 2 O 3i and Fe2O 3 / SiO2 / Fe2O 3 / SiO2 / Fe 2 O 3 , pigments having these structures being sold under the name SICOPEARL by the company BASF; MoS2 / Si02 / mica-oxide / Si0 2 / MoS2; Fe20 3 / Si02 / mica-oxide / Si02 / Fe 2 0 3 ; TiO2 / SiO 2 / TiO2 and ΤίΟ 2 / ΑΙ 2 Ο 3 / Τίθ2; SnO / TiO2 / SiO2 / TiO2 / SnO; Fe2O 3 / SiO2 / Fe2O 3 ;
SnO / mica / TiO2 / SiO2 / TiO 2 / mica / SnO, pigments having these structures being sold under the name XIRONA by the company MERCK (Darmstadt). By way of example, these pigments can be the pigments with a silica / titanium oxide / tin oxide structure sold under the name XIRONA MAGIC by the company MERCK, the pigments with a silica / brown iron oxide structure sold under the name XIRONA INDIAN SUMMER by MERCK and the silica / titanium oxide / mica / tin oxide structure pigments sold under the name XIRONA CARRIBEAN BLUE by MERCK. Mention may also be made of the INFINITE COLORS pigments from the company SHISEIDO. Depending on the thickness and the nature of the different layers, different effects are obtained. Thus, with the structure Fe 2 O 3 / SiO2 / AI / SiO2 / Fe 2 O 3 we go from golden-green to gray-red for SiO 2 layers from 320 to 350 nm; from red to gold for SiO 2 layers from 380 to 400 nm; from purple to green for SiO 2 layers from 410 to 420 nm; from copper to red for SiO 2 layers from 430 to 440 nm.
Mention may be made, by way of example of pigments with a polymeric multilayer structure, of those sold by the company 3M under the name COLOR GLITTER.
As goniochromatic particles with liquid crystals, it is possible to use for example those sold by the company CHENIX as well as that marketed under the name HELICONE® HC by the company WACKER.
POLYOLS
The composition according to the invention can also comprise at least one polyol, more particularly a polyol liquid at room temperature, of C 2 -C 8 , preferably of C 3 -C 6 , saturated or not, linear or branched, comprising of 2 with 6 hydroxyl groups.
Preferably, the polyol is chosen from glycerin, diglycerin, pentanediol, C 3 -C 8 glycols, linear or branched, saturated, in particular propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, dipropylene glycol, as well as their mixtures, and preferably glycerine, of propylene glycol, of butylene glycol, and their mixtures.
The composition according to the invention, if it comprises it, has a polyol (s) content of at least between 2 and 10% by weight, preferably from 4 to 8% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
ADDITIONAL USUAL COSMETIC INGREDIENTS
The composition according to the invention can also comprise any usual cosmetic ingredient which can be chosen in particular from hydrophobic thickeners, fillers of organic or mineral nature, antioxidants, perfumes, preservatives, neutralizers, sequestrants, surfactants in particular non-ionic, having an HLB greater than 8, the film-forming agents, the active agents, and their mixtures.
Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional ingredients and / or their amount in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not or substantially not altered by the addition envisaged.
The hydrophobic thickener can be chosen from alkylated guar gums (with C1-C6 alkyl group), such as those described in EP-A-708114; oil-gelling polymers such as triblock or star polymers resulting from the polymerization or copolymerization of at least one monomer containing an ethylenic group, such as the polymers sold under the name Kraton; polyamide resins comprising alkyl groups having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as those described in US-A-5783657; alkyl ethers of polysaccharides, in particular whose alkyl group contains from 1 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 10, better still from 1 to 6, and more especially from 1 to 3, such as those described in document EP-A -898958; organophilic clays; hydrophobic fumed silicas; hydrophobic silica aerogels; elastomeric organopolysiloxanes and their mixtures.
The clays are silicates containing a cation which can be chosen from calcium, magnesium, aluminum, sodium, potassium, lithium cations and their mixtures. Examples of such products include clays from the smectite family such as montmorillonites, hectorites, bentonites, beidellites, saponites, as well as from the vermiculites, stevensite, chlorites family. . These clays can be of natural or synthetic origin. Organophilic clays are clays modified with a chemical compound chosen from quaternary amines, tertiary amines, amino acetates, imidazolines, amino soaps, fatty sulfates, alkyl aryl sulfonates, amine oxides, and mixtures thereof.
Mention may thus be made of hectorites modified by a quaternary amine, more precisely by a halide, such as a chloride, of ammonium fatty acid C w to C 22 , such as hectorite modified by di-stearyl chloride di- methyl ammonium (CTFA name: Disteardimonium hectorite), such as, for example, that sold under the name Bentone 38V®, Bentone 38V CG, Bentone EW CE, by the company ELEMENTIS; Hectorites stearalkonium such as Bentone 27 V,
Mention may also be made of quaternium-18 bentonites such as those sold under the names Bentone 34 sold by the company Elementis, Claytone 40, Tixogel VP by the company United catalyst by the company Southern Clay; stearalkonium bentonites such as those sold under the names Tixogel LG by the company United Catalyst, Claytone AF, Claytone APA by the company Southern Clay; quaternium-18 / benzalkonium bentonite such as those sold under the name Claytone HT by the company Southern Clay
According to a preferred embodiment, the thickening agent is chosen from organophilic modified clays, in particular organophilic modified hectorites, in particular by halides, preferably benzyldimethyl ammonium stearate chlorides, or by distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride.
Hydrophobic fumed silicas can be obtained by modification of the surface of the silica by a chemical reaction generating a reduction in the number of silanol groups, these groups possibly being in particular substituted by hydrophobic groups. The hydrophobic groups can be:
- Trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are obtained in particular by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas thus treated are called Silica silylate according to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995). They are for example marketed under the references AEROSIL R812® by the company Degussa, CAB-O-SIL TS-530® by the company Cabot;
- dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are obtained in particular by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas thus treated are called Silica dimethyl silylate according to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995). They are for example marketed under the references AEROSIL R972®, AEROSIL R974® by the company Degussa, CAB-O-SIL TS-610®, CAB-O-SIL TS-720® by the company Cabot.
Silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air. They are generally synthesized by the sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then usually dried by extraction of a supercritical fluid, the most commonly used being supercritical CO 2 . This type of drying prevents contraction of the pores and the material. The sol-gel process and the different dryings are described in detail in Brinker CJ., And Scherer GW, Sol-Gel
Science: New York: Academie Press, 1990.
- Preferably, hydrophobic silica airgel particles modified on the surface by trimethylsilyl groups are used.
- As hydrophobic silica aerogels, there may be mentioned for example the airgel marketed under the name VM-2260 (name INCI Silica silylate), by the company Dow Corning, the particles of which have an average size of approximately 1000 microns and a specific surface per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m 2 / g. Mention may also be made of the aerogels sold by Cabot under the references AEROGEL TLD 201, AEROGEL OGD 201, AEROGEL TLD 203, ENOVA® AEROGEL MT 1100, ENOVA AEROGEL MT 1200.
The elastomeric organopolysiloxanes are generally partially or completely crosslinked and possibly of three-dimensional structure. The elastomeric organopolysiloxanes associated with a fatty phase are generally in the form of a gel consisting of an elastomeric organopolysiloxane associated with a fatty phase, included in at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and / or a silicone oil. They can be chosen in particular from the crosslinked polymers described in application EP-A-0295886. According to this application, the elastomeric organopolysiloxanes are obtained by addition and crosslinking reaction of at least:
(a) an organopolysiloxane having at least two lower alkenyl groups per molecule;
(b) an organopolysiloxane having at least two hydrogen atoms linked to one silicon atom per molecule; and (c) and a platinum type catalyst.
The additional thickening agent may be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight.
By “filler”, it is necessary to understand the colorless or white particles, solid of all shapes, which are in an insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition. They are distinct from coloring matters.
Among the fillers which can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made of silica, kaolin, starch, lauroyl-lysine, fumed silica particles, optionally treated hydrophilically, mica, talc, sericite, polyamide (Nylon®), poly-p-alanine and polyethylene powders, powders of tetrafluoroethylene polymers (Teflon®), polymeric hollow microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile such as Expancel® (Nobel Industrie ), acrylic acid copolymers, silicone resin microbeads (Tospearls® from Toshiba, for example), elastomeric polyorganosiloxane particles, precipitated calcium carbonate, carbonate and magnesium hydro-carbonate, hydroxyapatite, barium sulphate, aluminum oxides, polyurethane powders, composite fillers, hollow silica microspheres, glass or ceramic microcapsules, metal soaps liques derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc stearate, magnesium or lithium, zinc laurate and magnesium myristate and their mixtures.
A composition used according to the invention may comprise one or more fillers in a content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, in particular from 1 to 10% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
The composition according to the invention can also comprise at least one active ingredient.
By "active" is meant a compound having a cosmetic and / or dermatological effect, in particular on the lips. This active can be hydrophilic or hydrophobic. The active ingredient can be water-soluble.
Thus, the active ingredient present in the composition according to the invention can be independently chosen from agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation, anti-irritants, anti-pollution or anti-radical agents , UV filters, vitamins A, E, C, B3, provitamins such as D-panthenol, soothing agents, such as Ι'α-bisabolol, aloe vera, allantoin, plant extracts or oils essential, agents acting on the microcirculation, agents acting on the energy metabolism of cells, healing agents, freshness active ingredients such as menthol and its derivatives, and their mixtures.
Mention may also be made of hydrating agents, different from the aforementioned polyols, such as for example hyaluronic acid and its salts, spheres of hyaluronic acid such as those sold by the company Engelhard Lyon, sorbitol, xylitol, polyacrylate of glycerol, ectoin and its derivatives, the collagen and chondroitin sulfate spheres of marine origin (Ateocollagen) sold by the company Engelhard Lyon under the name marine filling spheres, a C-glycoside derivative such as those described in the application. WO 02/051828 and in particular CpD-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane in the form of a solution at 30% by weight of active material in a water / propylene glycol mixture (60/40% by weight) such as the product manufactured by CHIMEX under the trade name "MEXORYL SBB®"; plant extracts in aqueous or oily media, such as pomegranate extract, aqueous solutions obtained from coconuts nucifera; sphingolipids, such as ceramide 5; and their mixtures.
The amount of active (s) ranges, for example, from 0.0001 to 8% by weight and preferably from 0.01 to 5% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the composition.
The product according to the invention can be advantageously used for making up the skin and / or the lips, depending on the nature of the ingredients used. In particular, the product of the invention can be in the form of a solid foundation, a stick of lipstick, a concealer or eye contour product, an eyeliner, an eye shadow, a product body makeup.
Preferably, the composition of the invention may be in the form of a colored lip makeup product such as a lipstick stick or a lip gloss, optionally having care or treatment properties.
The compositions of the invention can be obtained by heating the various constituents to a temperature corresponding to the highest melting point of the ingredient (s), then pouring the molten mixture into a mold.
The composition according to the invention can be manufactured by known methods, generally used in the cosmetic or dermatological field. For example, it can be manufactured by the following process:
The coloring matter can be ground in part of the oily phase.
Independently, the oils, waxes and surfactants, in particular of HLB less than or equal to 8, if they are present, are mixed, in particular with stirring, at a temperature such that the ingredients are in liquid form, for example at a temperature above 70 ° C. Then, the silicone resin is introduced into the mixture. Then the silicone polyamide is introduced. Finally, the ground material of dyes can then be added to the mixture constituting the oily phase.
The aqueous phase is also prepared by mixing the water-soluble ingredients, then it can be heated, for example to a temperature above 70 ° C.
Then, in particular with stirring and heating, the aqueous phase is introduced into the oily phase.
Finally, the composition can be poured, for example into a mold capable of giving it the shape of a stick and the whole can be left to cool.
According to another aspect, the invention also relates to a cosmetic assembly comprising:
i) a container delimiting a compartment, said container being closed by a closing element; and ii) a composition in accordance with the invention placed inside said compartment.
The container can be in any suitable form. It can in particular be in the form of a pot, a case, a box, or a box. Preferably, the container is sealed.
The closure element may be in the form of a removable stopper, a cover, a cover, a tearable strip, or a capsule, in particular of the type comprising a body fixed to the container and an articulated cap. on the body. It can also be in the form of an element ensuring the selective closure of the container, in particular a pump, a valve, such as a valve for example.
The following examples are given by way of illustration and without limitation of the present invention. The percentages are percentages by weight.
Examples 1 and 2 of lipsticks according to the invention
The solid reverse emulsion compositions of Examples 1 and 2 are obtained according to the following protocol:
Initially, the fillers and pigments are ground in part of the oily phase.
The rest of the fat-soluble ingredients and optionally the surfactants (cetyl
PEG / PGG-10/1 dimethicone, PEG / PPG-18/18 dimethicone and polyglycerol isostearate4) are then mixed at a temperature of around 100 ° C. The ground material or the pre-dispersed active agents are then added to the oily phase.
The aqueous phase is prepared and then dispersed using a Moritz stirrer.
Finally, the composition is poured into a mold to give it the shape of a stick and the whole is left to cool to room temperature.
Compound (INCI name) Example 1 Example 2 Coloring matters (pigments, lacquers and / or titanium oxide) 8 8 Phenyltrimethicone (KF 56 A, from Shin Etsu) 13.5 10.3 Isononyl isononanoate 10.9 8.4 Candelilla wax (7820 Light SpecialCandelilla REAL® by Multiceras) 2.5 2.6 C20-40 alkyl stearate (Kester Wax K 82 H fromKoster Keunen) 7.5 7.9 Trimethylsiloxysilicate (SR1000 from MomentivePerformance Materials) 8.5 8.5 Octyldodecanol 13.4 - CETYL PEG / PPG-10/1 DIMETHICONE (AbilEM-90 by Evonik Goldschmidt) - 3 PEG / PPG-18/18 dimethicone in dimethicone (X-22-6711 D, from Shin Etsu; in dimetjhicone; 25% active ingredient) - 1 Polyglycerol-4 isostearate (Isolan Gl 34 ofGoldschmidt) - 1 NYLON-611 / DIMETHICONE COPOLYMER(DC 2-8179 from Dow Corning) 5.7 5.7 Glycerin 5 5 HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE / SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER (SEPINOV EMT 10 from SEPPIC) 0.2 0.2 EDTA 0.2 0.2 Octane-1,2-diol - 0.5 Sodium hyaluronate 0.1 0.1 Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100
For examples 1 and 2, sticks with a hardness of 50 +/- 9 Nm ' 1 are obtained. The two compositions are easy to apply, with good slipperiness and make it possible to obtain a covering, intense, fine and homogeneous deposit on the first pass, fresh, non-sticky, non-migrating (in particular after 1 h 30 min), of good resistance, in particular of 5 color, and comfortable. The color of the deposit is uniform with good coverage.
权利要求:
Claims (6)
[1" id="c-fr-0001]
1. Solid cosmetic makeup or care composition comprising:
a continuous fatty phase comprising at least one silicone polyamide, at least one silicone resin, at least one non-volatile polar hydrocarbon-based oil and at least one polar wax with a melting point less than or equal to 90 ° C .; and
an aqueous phase dispersed in the continuous fatty phase, said silicone polyamide representing at most 9% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition, and said wax representing at least 7% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.
2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that said silicone polyamide represents between 2 and 9% by weight, preferably between 3 and 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least 7% by weight of polar wax, preferably between 7 and 20%, preferably between 8 and 13% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least 5% by weight of silicone resin, preferably between 5 and 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least 7% by weight of water, preferably between 7 and 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, having a hardness varying from 20 to 90 Nrri 1 , preferably varying from 30 to 80 Nm ' 1 , more preferably varying from 40 to 60 Nm' 1 .
7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the silicone polyamide comprises at least one unit corresponding to general formula I:
(D
1) in which: G 'represents C (O) when G represents -C (O) -NH-Y-NH-, and G' represents -NH- when G represents -NH-C (O) -YC (O) -
[2" id="c-fr-0002]
2) R 4 , R 5 , R 6 and R 7 , identical or different, represent a group chosen from:
saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched or cyclic, branched or cyclic, Ci to C 4 o hydrocarbon groups, which may contain in their chain one or more oxygen, sulfur and / or nitrogen atoms, and which may be partially substituted or totally by fluorine atoms, C 6 to C 10 aryl groups, optionally substituted by one or more C 4 to C 4 alkyl groups, polyorganosiloxane chains containing or not containing one or more oxygen, sulfur and / or nitrogen,
[3" id="c-fr-0003]
3) the X, identical or different, represent a linear or branched Ct to C 30 alkylene di-yl group, which may contain in its chain one or more oxygen and / or nitrogen atoms,
[4" id="c-fr-0004]
4) Y is a divalent linear or branched alkylene, arylene, cycloalkylene, alkylarylene or arylalkylene group, saturated or unsaturated, in Ct to C 50 , which may contain one or more oxygen, sulfur and / or nitrogen atoms, and / or bearing as substituent one of the following atoms or groups of atoms: fluorine, hydroxy, cycloalkyl C 3 -C 8 alkyl -C 40 aryl, C 5 to Ci 0, phenyl optionally substituted by 1 to 3 alkyl, Ci to C 3 hydroxyalkyl and amino -C 3 alkyl to C 6, or
[5" id="c-fr-0005]
5) Y represents a group corresponding to the formula:
in which
T represents a trivalent or tetravalent, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C 3 -C 24 hydrocarbon group optionally substituted by a polyorganosiloxane chain, and which may contain one or more atoms chosen from O, N and S, or T represents an atom trivalent chosen from N, P and Al, and
R 8 represents a linear or branched Ct to C 50 alkyl group, or a polyorganosiloxane chain, which may contain one or more ester, amide, urethane, thiocarbamate, urea, thiourea and / or sulfonamide groups which may or may not be linked to a other polymer chain,
[6" id="c-fr-0006]
6) n is an integer ranging from 2 to 500, preferably from 2 to 200, and m is an integer ranging from 50 to 1000, preferably from 50 to 700 and better still from 50 to 200.
8. Composition according to the preceding claim, in which X and / or Y represents (s) an alkylene group containing in its alkylene part at least one of the following elements:
i. 1 to 5 amide, urea, urethane, or carbamate groups, ii. a C 5 or C 6 cycloalkyl group, and iii. a phenylene group optionally substituted by 1 to 3 identical or different alkyl groups at C) to C 3 , and / or substituted by at least one element chosen from the group consisting of: a hydroxy group, a C 3 to C 8 cycloalkyl group , one to three alkyl groups in C) to C 40, optionally substituted with a phenyl group with three alkyl groups in C) to C 3 hydroxyalkyl group to C 3, and an aminoalkyl group to C 6.
9. Composition according to any one of claims 7 or 8, in which R 4 , R 5 , R 6 and R 7 independently represent a linear or branched C 1 -C 4 alkyl group, preferably a group - CH 3 , -C 2 H 5 , nC 3 H 7 or isopropyl, a polyorganosiloxane chain or a phenyl group optionally substituted by one to three methyl or ethyl groups.
10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one polymer of general formula (I) as defined in claim 7 and having an index m of value greater than 50, preferably greater than 75, preferably in particular d about 100, and preferably the polymer of formula (I) has a weight average molecular weight ranging from 10,000 to 500,000 g / mol.
11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said silicone resin is a resin chosen from:
- MQ type silicone resins, such as alkylsiloxysilicates in particular of formula [(R1) 3 SiO 1/2 ] x (SiO 4/2 ) y (MQ units) in which x and y are integers ranging from
50 to 80, and such that the group R1 represents a hydrocarbon radical, in particular alkyl, having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a phenyl group, a phenylalkyl group or even a hydroxyl group, and preferably is an alkyl group having 1 to
8 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyl group, preferably a methyl group,
- The silicone T-type resins such as polysilsesquioxanes, especially of the formula (RSiO 3/2) x (T units) wherein x is greater than 100 and such that the group R is an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, said polysilsesquioxanes possibly also comprising Si-OH end groups, and
- MQT type resins, in particular MQT-propyl resins, preferably comprising the units:
- (i) (R 1 3 SiO 1/2) a (u) (R 2 2 SiO 2/2) b
- (iii) (R3SiO 3/2 ) c and (iv) (SiO 4/2 ) d with
- R1, R2 and R3 independently representing a hydrocarbon radical (in particular alkyl) having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a phenyl group, a phenylalkyl group or even a hydroxyl group and preferably an alkyl radical having from 1 to 8 atoms carbon or a phenyl group,
- a, b, c and d being molar fractions,
- a being between 0.05 and 0.5,
- b being between zero and 0.3,
- c being greater than zero,
- d being between 0.05 and 0.6,
- a + b + c + d = 1,
- provided that more than 40 mol% of the R3 groups of the siloxane resin are propyl groups.
12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said silicone resin is an MQ type resin, more particularly a siloxysilicate resin, such as in particular the trimethylsiloxysilicate resin.
13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said silicone resin is present in a ratio such that the mass proportion of silicone resin / silicone polyamide is between 1 and 7/3, and preferably between 1.2 and 2.
14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the non-volatile polar hydrocarbon-based oil is chosen from:
- C 10 -C 26 alcohols, preferably monoalcohols;
- monoesters, diesters, triesters, optionally hydroxylated, of a C 2 -C 8 mono or polycarboxylic acid and of a C 2 -C 8 alcohol;
- the esters of a C 2 -C 8 polyol and of one or more C 2 -C 8 carboxylic acids, such as glycol and monoacid diesters, preferably neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, or glycol triesters and monoacids, preferably triacetin;
- ester oils, in particular having between 17 and 70 carbon atoms;
- vinylpyrrolidone / 1-hexadecene copolymers,
- di-alkyl carbonates, the 2 alkyl chains possibly being identical or different,
- their mixtures;
and preferably from C 10 -C 26 monoalcohols, ester oils, and in particular monoesters comprising at least 17 carbon atoms, diesters, hydroxylated or not, comprising at least 18 carbon atoms in total, triesters, in particular having at least 35 carbon atoms, the tetraesters, in particular having at least 35 carbon atoms, the esters and polyesters of dimer diol and of mono- or dicarboxylic acid, the polyesters resulting from the esterification of at least one triglyceride hydroxylated carboxylic acid (s) with an aliphatic monocarboxylic acid and with an aliphatic dicarboxylic acid, optionally unsaturated, vegetable hydrocarbon oils such as triglycerides of fatty acids liquid at room temperature, especially acids fatty having from 7 to 40 carbon atoms, as well as their mixtures.
15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil is present in an amount of between 5 and 30% by weight, preferably between 5 and 25% by weight relative to the total weight. of the composition.
16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polar wax is chosen from silicone waxes, alcohol waxes, ester waxes in particular chosen from:
i) the waxes of formula FhCOOFU in which Rt and R 2 represent linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chains whose number of atoms varies from 10 to 50, which may contain a heteroatom, in particular oxygen and whose point temperature melting ranges from 30 to 120 ° C, ii) di- (1,1,1-trimethylol propane) tetrastearate, iii) diester waxes of a dicarboxylic acid of general formula R 3 - (- OCO-R 4 -COO-R 5 ), in which R 3 and R 5 are identical or different, preferably identical and represent a C4-C30 alkyl group (alkyl group comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms) and R 4 represents an aliphatic group C 4 -C 30 (alkyl group having 4 to 30 carbon atoms) linear or branched and may or may not contain one or more unsaturations, iv) the waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils containing especially fatty chains linear or branched, C 8 -C 32 ,
v) waxes of animal or vegetable origin, vi) hydrocarbon waxes, polyoxyalkylenated or polyglycerolated, natural or synthetic, of animal or vegetable origin, the number of oxyalkylenated C2-C4 units may vary from 2 to 100, the number of glycerolated units which can vary from 1 to 20, vii) the waxes corresponding to the partial or total, preferably total, esters of a C 16 -C 30 carboxylic acid, saturated, optionally hydroxylated, with glycerol, viii) and their mixtures.
17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the wax is chosen from waxes with a melting point less than or equal to 80 ° C, preferably less than or equal to 70 ° C
18. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one additional oil chosen from silicone oils, volatile or non-volatile, apolar hydrocarbon oils, volatile or non-volatile, as well as their mixtures.
19. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the oil content (s) additional (s) represents from 1 to 30% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
20. Composition according to any one of claims 18 or 19, characterized in that it comprises at least one additional non-volatile silicone or nonpolar hydrocarbon-based oil, and preferably at least one non-volatile silicone oil.
21. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that it comprises at least one volatile, hydrocarbon or silicone oil, or their mixtures; preferably between 0.1 and 15% by weight, more particularly between 1 and 10% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
22. Composition according to any one of claims 18 or 19, characterized in that it comprises at least one additional volatile oil, silicone or hydrocarbon, or mixtures thereof.
23. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one thickening polymer of the aqueous phase, preferably chosen from homo- or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid or their salts and their esters ; copolymers of acrylic acid and acrylamide; polyacrylic acid / alkyl acrylate copolymers; homopolymers and copolymers based on acrylamido propanesulfonic acid; anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic chitin or chitosan polymers; cellulose polymers; vinyl polymers; polymers of natural origin, optionally modified; alginates and carrageenans; muccopolysaccharides;
and their mixtures.
24. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one nonionic, hydrocarbon or silicone surfactant, of HLB less than or equal to 8, preferably less than or equal to 7; more particularly chosen from silicone nonionic surfactants such as alkyl or alkoxy dimethicone copolyols with an alkyl or alkoxy chain hanging or at the end of the silicone skeleton having for example from 6 to 22 carbon atoms; dimethicone copolyols, which are more particularly oxypropylenated and / or oxyethylenated polydimethyl methyl siloxanes, as well as crosslinked elastomeric solid organopolysiloxanes comprising at least one oxyalkylenated group, and mixtures thereof; among the nonionic hydrocarbon surfactants such as alkyl (C 8 -C 30 ) ethers of poly (ethylene oxide), alkyl (C 8 -C 30 ) - and polyalkyl (C 8 -C 30 ) - esters ethylene, propylene, poly (ethylene oxide) or poly (propylene oxide) oxide; polyesters of fatty acids, preferably polyhydroxylated, C12-C20, polyoxyalkylenated, having from 4 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide; sorbitan alkyl and polyalkyl esters; (poly) glycerol alkyl and polyalkyl esters and mixtures thereof; as well as their mixtures; and preferably the composition comprises at least one nonionic silicone surfactant.
25. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of surfactant (s) represents from 0.1 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 0.5 15%, preferably 1 to 10% by weight.
26. A method of making up or caring for keratin materials and in particular the lips, in which a composition as defined according to any one of the preceding claims is applied to the keratin materials, and in particular the lips.
类似技术:
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同族专利:
公开号 | 公开日
KR20190098205A|2019-08-21|
JP2020502227A|2020-01-23|
CN110167514A|2019-08-23|
KR102297952B1|2021-09-03|
JP6818151B2|2021-01-20|
ES2864500T3|2021-10-13|
WO2018115328A1|2018-06-28|
EP3558230A1|2019-10-30|
FR3061006B1|2020-10-02|
US20200113791A1|2020-04-16|
EP3558230B1|2021-02-17|
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法律状态:
2017-11-13| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 2 |
2018-06-29| PLSC| Publication of the preliminary search report|Effective date: 20180629 |
2019-11-15| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 4 |
2020-11-12| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 5 |
2021-11-15| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 6 |
优先权:
申请号 | 申请日 | 专利标题
FR1663135|2016-12-22|
FR1663135A|FR3061006B1|2016-12-22|2016-12-22|SOLID COSMETIC COMPOSITION CONSISTING OF A SILICONE POLYAMIDE, A SILICONE RESIN AND A DISPERSE AQUEOUS PHASE|FR1663135A| FR3061006B1|2016-12-22|2016-12-22|SOLID COSMETIC COMPOSITION CONSISTING OF A SILICONE POLYAMIDE, A SILICONE RESIN AND A DISPERSE AQUEOUS PHASE|
JP2019534094A| JP6818151B2|2016-12-22|2017-12-21|Solid cosmetic composition comprising silicone polyamide, silicone resin and dispersed aqueous phase|
CN201780080162.2A| CN110167514A|2016-12-22|2017-12-21|The Solic cosmetic composition of polyamide containing polysiloxanes, silicone resin and disperse aqueous phase|
ES17818169T| ES2864500T3|2016-12-22|2017-12-21|Solid cosmetic composition comprising a silicone polyamide, a silicone resin and a dispersed aqueous phase|
EP17818169.9A| EP3558230B1|2016-12-22|2017-12-21|Solid cosmetic composition comprising a silicone polyamide, a silicone resin and a dispersed aqueous phase|
US16/471,793| US20200113791A1|2016-12-22|2017-12-21|Solid cosmetic composition comprising a silicone polyamide, a silicone resin and a dispersed aqueous phase|
PCT/EP2017/084173| WO2018115328A1|2016-12-22|2017-12-21|Solid cosmetic composition comprising a silicone polyamide, a silicone resin and a dispersed aqueous phase|
KR1020197021101A| KR102297952B1|2016-12-22|2017-12-21|Solid cosmetic composition comprising silicone polyamide, silicone resin and dispersed aqueous phase|
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