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    • 专利摘要:
    The present invention relates to hair compositions comprising the particular combination of cationic ammonium quaternary surfactant, antioxidant and a particular conditioning agent selected from silicones and fatty amides. The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method implementing said compositions.
    公开号:FR3059900A1
    申请号:FR1662444
    申请日:2016-12-14
    公开日:2018-06-15
    发明作者:Mathieu Destribats；Beatrice Louisius
    申请人:LOreal SA；
    IPC主号:
    专利说明:

    ® FRENCH REPUBLIC
    NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF INDUSTRIAL PROPERTY © Publication number:
    (to be used only for reproduction orders)
    ©) National registration number
    059 900
    62444
    COURBEVOIE © Int Cl 8 : A 61 K8 / 45 (2017.01), A 61 K8 / 89, 8/42, 8/49, A 61 Q 5/00, 5/02, 5/12
    A1 PATENT APPLICATION
    ©) Date of filing: 14.12.16. ©) Applicant (s): L'OREAL Société anonyme— FR. (30) Priority: @ Inventor (s): DESTRIBATS MATHIEU and LOUISIUS BEATRICE. (43) Date of public availability of the request: 15.06.18 Bulletin 18/24. ©) List of documents cited in the report preliminary research: Refer to end of present booklet (© References to other national documents ©) Holder (s): L'OREAL Société anonyme. related: ©) Extension request (s): ©) Agent (s): L'OREAL Société anonyme.
    COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING A QUATERNARY CATIONIC SURFACTANT, AN ANTIOXIDANT AGENT AND A PARTICULAR CONDITIONING AGENT.
    (3j) The present invention relates to hair compositions comprising the combination of cationic surfactant with particular quaternary ammonium, of antioxidant agent and of specific conditioning agent, chosen from silicones and fatty amides.
    The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process using said compositions.
    FR 3 059 900 - A1
    The present invention relates to compositions, preferably cosmetic, in particular hair, comprising the combination of cationic surfactant with particular quaternary ammonium, antioxidant agent and particular conditioner; the invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process using said compositions.
    Hair care users, especially of conditioners, masks, lotion, serum, always want an improvement in the performance delivered by current commercial products.
    In particular, the benefits such as detangling, flexibility, smoothing, softness and nutrition, generally provided by mask-type products, are highly appreciated by consumers with sensitized hair.
    However, current hair care products often lead to weighed down hair, which greases quickly enough, because these products are very concentrated in conditioning agents. It has thus been proposed, in our patent application FR3026297, compositions and a cosmetic treatment method providing these benefits, while solving the drawbacks mentioned above. However, we have found that the compositions, according to this patent application, are not entirely satisfactory in terms of stability over time and tend to yellow over time, probably due to an oxidation phenomenon. Consumers are waiting for stable skincare products, which do not yellow over time, and which combine high cosmetic performance with a composition less concentrated in conditioning agent, which leads to lighter hair, which tends to regrease less quickly.
    The object of the present invention is to propose such cosmetic compositions, which are easily applied to the hair and capable of achieving a performance of conditioning power greater than that obtained with the state of the art while using a small quantity of ingredients. in the formula, in particular a low content of surfactants.
    This low concentration of ingredients makes it possible in particular to reduce the weighting of the hair, as well as to delay regreasing.
    An object of the present invention is a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, in particular a hair composition, comprising:
    (i) at least one cationic quaternary ammonium surfactant corresponding to formula (I):
    9 H 3 o
    I II
    L, n CH, —CH-OC-R1 H 3 C Z 2
    H 3 C
    CH — CH-O — C-R2 ch 3 O
    X3059900 in which:
    R1 represents a hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, comprising 11 to 23 carbon atoms,
    R2 represents an unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical containing 23 carbon atoms, and
    X 'is a cosmetically acceptable counterion;
    (ii) at least one antioxidant agent; and (iii) at least one conditioning agent chosen from silicones and / or fatty amides, preferably chosen from fatty amides, preferentially chosen from C8-C32 fatty amides.
    It has been found that the compositions according to the invention make it possible to achieve good packaging performance. In particular, they make it possible to achieve conditioning levels comparable to, or even higher than, those obtained with state-of-the-art products, and this for significantly lower total concentrations of cationic surfactants (2 to 3 times less important).
    It has also been found that these compositions make it possible to obtain a particular sensory signature, in particular on damp hair, in particular a very enveloping touch: a deposit is felt on the fiber, the formula textures the hair, it leads to a feeling of touch. thicker, slippery hair.
    In addition, they allow good cosmetic performance to be achieved with a favorable biodegradability profile.
    The combination according to the invention also makes it possible to obtain a thickened formula, easy to apply and which does not drip, therefore having good use properties.
    In addition, thanks to the combination according to the invention, it is possible to prepare silicone-free (silicone-free) hair care compositions providing a level of performance equivalent to that of certain silicone masks.
    Advantageously, the compositions according to the invention are in the form of a conditioner to rinse or not, or a hair mask.
    In the present description, the expression at least one is equivalent to the expression one or more; and the expression between ... and ... is equivalent to the expression going from ... to ..., which implies that the limits are included.
    (1) Cationic surfactants with quaternary ammonium
    The composition according to the invention comprises one or more cationic surfactants with quaternary ammonium, in particular of the dimethyl-di- (acyloxyisopropyl) ammonium type, corresponding to formula (I) below:
    CH, Ο I II H c CH — CH-OC-R1
    CH — CH-O — C-R2 Xch 3 O in which:
    R1 represents a hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, comprising 11 to 23 carbon atoms,
    R2 represents an unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical containing 23 carbon atoms, and
    X- is a cosmetically acceptable counterion.
    By unsaturated radical is meant that the hydrocarbon radical comprises at least one carbon-carbon double bond (C = C) and / or at least one carbon-carbon triple bond. It can obviously include several double and / or triple carbon-carbon bonds.
    By saturated radical is meant that the hydrocarbon radical does not comprise a carbon-carbon double or triple bond.
    Preferably, R1 represents a hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, comprising 13 to 21 carbon atoms, in particular 15 to 19 carbon atoms, and very particularly 17 carbon atoms.
    When it is unsaturated, preferably R1 comprises at least one double bond (C = C), and in particular a single double bond, two double bonds or three double bonds.
    Preferably, R2 represents an unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, comprising 13 to 21 carbon atoms, in particular 15 to 19 carbon atoms, and very particularly 17 carbon atoms.
    Preferably, R2 comprises at least one double bond (C = C), and in particular a single double bond, two double bonds or three double bonds.
    Preferably, R1 and R2 include the same number of carbon atoms.
    Preferably, R1 and R2 are identical.
    Preferably, R2 represents an oleyl group.
    Preferably, R1 represents an oleyl or stearyl group.
    According to a particular embodiment, R1 and R2 both represent an oleyl group.
    According to another particular embodiment, R1 represents a stearyl group and R2 represents an oleyl group.
    In a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention may comprise a mixture of surfactants of formula (I).
    In particular, the composition of the invention may comprise a mixture of surfactants of formula (I) in which R1 and R2, identical or different, comprise 15 to 19, in particular 17, carbon atoms, and a single double bond, two double bonds or three double bonds.
    In particular, the acyl groups (-C (O) R1 and -C (O) R2) can be derived from unsaturated carboxylic fatty acids which can comprise 12 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 14 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular 16 to 20 carbon atoms; mention may in particular be made of oleic acid, linoleic acid and linolenic acid. Said fatty acids can be of natural, vegetable or animal origin; in particular they can be derived from vegetable oils, for example olein, rapeseed oil, soybean, sunflower, coconut or tall oil (pine).
    The acyl group -C (O) R1 can also derive from saturated carboxylic fatty acids which can comprise 12 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 14 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular 16 to 20 carbon atoms; include isostearic acid, palmitic acid and arachidic acid.
    Preferably, X ′ is an anion of the halide (chloride, iodide or bromide), phosphate, acetate, lactate, sulfate, (C1-C4) alkyl, especially methyl sulfate or ethyl sulfate type; alkyl (Ci-C4) sulfonate or alkyl (Ci-C 4) aryl-sulfonate.
    The compounds of formula (I) can be prepared by esterification of alkanolamines, and in particular of methyldiisopropanolamine (MDIA), and of unsaturated carboxylic fatty acids, for example in a molar ratio ranging from 1: 1.6 to 1: 2, esterification being followed by quaternization.
    The proportion of unsaturated fraction in these natural fatty acids can be adjusted so as to have an iodine index of between 40 and 160, in particular between 80 and 150, which is the case for the vegetable oils mentioned above.
    The esterification can be carried out by any known means, in particular in the presence of a catalyst such as methane sulfonic acid, preferably under an inert atmosphere (nitrogen for example), preferably at a temperature of 160-240 ° C. The quaternization can be carried out by any known means, for example in a solvent such as ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol or dipropylene glycol, preferably at a temperature of 60-90 ° C, by adding an amount equimolar of quaternizing agent, in particular with stirring.
    As quaternizing agent, mention may be made of organic or inorganic quaternizing agents such as short chain dialkyl sulphates or phosphates, in particular dimethyl sulphate and dimethyl phosphate, or alternatively short chain halogenated hydrocarbons such as methyl chloride.
    Such quaternary ammonium compounds are in particular described in bre3059900 vet US6653275, which describes in particular a fatty acid ester originating from tall oil (distribution of chain lengths of fatty acids: 1% in C16, 2% in C18, 37% C18: 1.60% C18: 2 and 1% greater than C18) and MDIA, in a MDIA / fatty acid molar ratio equal to 1: 1.8, said ester being subsequently quaternized with dimethylsulfate.
    Mention may also be made of patent EP240727 which describes quaternary ammonium compounds and in particular dimethyl-di- (oleyloxyisopropyl) ammonium methosulfate.
    As an example of a cationic surfactant with quaternary ammonium, we can cite bis- (isostearoyl / oleoyl isopropyl) dimonium methosulfate, sold by the company Evonik under the reference Varisoft EQ100®.
    The composition according to the invention preferably comprises the surfactant (s) of formula (I) in a total amount ranging from 0.5 to 5% by weight, in particular from 0.75 to 4% by weight, or even from 1 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
    (2) Antioxidant agents
    The composition according to the invention also comprises at least one antioxidant agent.
    By antioxidant agent is meant within the meaning of the present invention a compound which slows down or prevents the oxidation of other compounds.
    The antioxidant agents according to the invention can be chosen from all the compounds known for their antioxidant activity.
    In particular, the antioxidant agents can be chosen from pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate; sodium sulfite; sodium methsulfite; tocopherol and its esters, in particular tocopherol acetate; ascorbic acid and its derivatives, in particular ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl magnesium phosphate and ascorbyl glucoside, erythorbic acid; ferulic acid; serine; ellagic acid; phloretin; polyphenols; tannins; tannic acid; epoigallocathechins and natural extracts containing them; anthocyanins; rosemary extracts; extracts of olive leaves like those of the company Silab; green tea extracts; resveratrol and its derivatives; ergothineine; N-acetylcysteine; an extract of brown seaweed pelvetia canaliculata such as Secma's Pelvetiane®; chlorogenic acid; biotin; tris (tetramethylhydroxypiperidinol) citrate; chelating agents, such as 2,6-di-tertbutyl-4-methylphenol (BHT), tertiobutyl-4-hydroxyanisole (BHA), N, N'bis (3,4,5-trimethoxybenzyl) ethylenediamine and its salts ; idebenone; plant extracts such as Pronalen Bioprotect ™ from the company Provital; co-enzyme Q10; bioflavonoids; SOD; phytantriol; lignans; melatonin;
    pidolates; gluthation; caprylyl glycol; Totarol ™ or Podocarpus totara extract containing totarol (totara-8, 11, 13-trienol or 2-phenanthrenol, 4b, 5, 6, 7, 8, 8a, 9, 10-octahydro-4b, 8, 8- trimethyl-1 (1-methylethyl) -); a jasmine extract such as that sold by SILAB under the name Helisun®; hesperitin laurate such as Flavagrum PEG® from the company Engelhard Lyon; a Paeonia suffructicosa root extract such as that sold by the company Ichimaru Pharcos under the name Botanpi Liquid B®; a lychee extract such as the lychee pericarp extract sold by the company Cognis under the name Litchiderm LS 9704®, a pomegranate fruit extract (Punica Granatum), such as that sold by the company Draco Natural products; and their mixtures.
    Advantageously, the antioxidant agent (s) are chosen from the following antioxidant agents of formula (II) or (ll) bis:
    in which :
    - ALK 'represents a saturated hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched in C-iC 4 , in particular in C1-C2; in particular methyl or ethyl;
    - ALK, identical or different, represents a hydrocarbon chain, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, cyclic or acyclic, in Ci-Cs ; and
    - R is an OH, SH or NH 2 group .
    Preferably, ALK represents a hydrocarbon chain, identical or different, in C3-C4, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, cyclic or acyclic; in particular ALK represents a C3-C4, saturated, linear or branched, acyclic hydrocarbon chain; in particular tert-butyl.
    Preferably, R is an OH group.
    Preferably, at least one antioxidant agent corresponds to formula (ll) bis, and even better at least one antioxidant agent is pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate.
    As examples of compounds of formula (II), mention may be made of 2,6-di-tert-butyl-4methylphenol (INCI name: BHT).
    As a commercial product, mention may be made of the product sold under the trade name AGIDOL 1 CRYSTAL by the company STE RL ITAM AK PETROCHEMICAL PLANT, IONOL CP by the company OXIRIS CHEMICALS, NIPANOX BHT by the company CLARIANT, or also PUROLAN BHT by LANXESS.
    The composition according to the invention preferably comprises the antioxidant agent (s) in a total amount ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, in particular ranging from 0.2 to 8% by weight, better ranging from 0.3 to 5 % by weight, preferably ranging from 0.4 to 3% by weight, even better ranging from 0.45 to 2% by weight, and even better ranging from 0.5 to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
    The composition according to the invention also comprises at least one conditioning agent chosen from silicones and / or fatty amides, preferably chosen from fatty amides, preferentially chosen from C8-C32 fatty amides.
    (3) Silicones
    The silicones which may be present in the composition can be solid or liquid, volatile or non-volatile, amino or non-amino. The composition can, of course, comprise a mixture of such silicones.
    As silicones which may be used, there may be mentioned, alone or as a mixture, polydialkylsiloxanes and in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydiarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, gums and silicone resins, as well as organopolysiloxanes (or organomodified polysiloxanes, or organomodified silicones) which are polysiloxanes comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups, generally fixed via a hydrocarbon group, and preferably chosen from aryl groups, amino groups, alkoxy groups and groups polyoxyethylenated, or polyoxypropylenated.
    The organomodified silicones can be polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes functionalized by the organofunctional groups mentioned above. The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and / or branched polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes.
    Among the organomodified silicones, mention may be made of organopolysiloxanes comprising:
    - polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene groups optionally comprising C6-C24 alkyl groups such as dimethicone-copolyols, and in particular those marketed by the company Dow Corning under the name DC 1248 or the oils SILWET® L 722, L 7500, L 77, L 711 from the company UNION CARBIDE; or also the (Ci2) -methicone-copolyols, and in particular those sold by the company Dow Corning under the name Q25200;
    - Amino groups substituted or not, in particular aminoalkyl groups Ci-C ^ we can cite the products marketed under the name GP4 Silicone Fluid and GP7100 by the company GENESEE, or under the names Q2-8220 and DC929 or DC939 by DOW CORNING;
    - thiol groups, such as the products marketed under the names GP 72 A and GP 71 of GENESEE;
    - alkoxylated groups, such as the product marketed under the name SILICONE COPOLYMER F-755 by SWS SILICONES and ABIL WAX® 2428, 2434 and 2440 by the company GOLDSCHMIDT;
    - hydroxylated groups, such as polyorganosiloxanes with a hydroxyalkyl function;
    - Acyloxyalkyl groups such as the polyorganosiloxanes described in patent US-A-4957732.
    - Anionic groups of the carboxylic acid type, as for example described in EP 186507, or of the alkyl carboxylic type such as the product X-223701E from the company SHIN-ETSU; or of the 2-hydroxyalkylsulfonate or 2hydroxyalkylthiosulfate type, such as the products sold by the company GOLDSCHMIDT under the names ABIL® S201 and ABIL® S255.
    - hydroxyacylamino groups, such as the polyorganosiloxanes described in application EP342834; there may be mentioned, for example, the product Q2-8413 from the company Dow Corning.
    The silicones can also be chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may mainly be made of polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups. Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made of the following commercial products:
    - SILBIONE® oils of series 47 and 70,047 or MIRASIL® oils marketed by RHODIA such as, for example, oil 70,047 V 500,000;
    - the oils of the MIRASIL® series sold by the company RHODIA;
    - oils of the 200 series from the company DOW CORNING such as DC200 having a viscosity of 60,000 mm 2 / s;
    - VISCASIL® oils from GENERAL ELECTRIC and certain oils from the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from GENERAL ELECTRIC.
    Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes with dimethylsilanol end groups known under the name of dimethiconol (CTFA), such as oils of the 48 series from the company RHODIA.
    In this class of polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may also be made of the products sold under the names ABIL WAX® 9800 and 9801 by the company GOLDSCHMIDT which are polydialkyl (C1-C20) siloxanes.
    Products more particularly usable in accordance with the invention are mixtures such as:
    - mixtures formed from a polydimethylsiloxane hydroxylated at the chain end, or dimethiconol (CTFA) and a cyclic polydimethylsiloxane also called cyclomethicone (CTFA) such as the product Q2-1401 sold by the company Dow Corning.
    The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and / or branched polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity ranging from 1.10 ' 5 to 5.10' 2 m 2 / s at 25 ° C.
    Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes, mention may be made of the products sold under the following names:
    - SILBIONE® oils of the 70 641 series from RHODIA;
    - the oils of the RHODORSIL® 70 633 and 763 series from RHODIA;
    - DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRAD FLUID oil from DOW CORNING;
    - the silicones of the PK series from Bayer, such as the product PK20;
    - the silicones of the PN and PH series from Bayer, such as the PN1000 and PH1000 products;
    - certain oils from the SF series from GENERAL ELECTRIC such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250, SF 1265.
    According to a variant of the invention, when the composition comprises one or more silicones, the composition preferably comprises one or more amino silicones. The term “amino silicone” denotes any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary, tertiary amine or a quaternary ammonium group.
    The weight average molecular weights of these amino silicones can be measured by gel permeation chromatography (GPC) at room temperature (25 ° C) in polystyrene equivalent. The columns used are μ styragel columns. The eluent is THF, the flow rate is 1 ml / min. 200 μl of a 0.5% by weight silicone solution in THF are injected. Detection is done by refractometry and UVmetry.
    As amino silicone capable of being used in the context of the invention, there may be mentioned:
    a) the polysiloxanes corresponding to formula (A):
    Ç H 3
    OH
    HO
    If-o
    (AT)
    NH (ÇH 2 ) 2 nh 2 y 'in which x' and y 'are whole numbers such that the weight-average molecular weight (Mw) is between approximately 5,000 and 500,000;
    b) amino silicones corresponding to formula (B):
    R'aG3-a-Si (OSiG2) n- (OSiGbR'2-b) m-O-SiG3-a-R'a (B) in which:
    - G, identical or different, denotes a hydrogen atom, a phenyl, OH, C-i-Cs alkyl, for example methyl, or C-i-Cs alkoxy, for example me10 thoxy,
    - a, identical or different, denotes 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0,
    - b denotes 0 or 1, in particular 1,
    - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000, in particular from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1999, and in particular of
    49 to 149 and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10;
    - R ', identical or different, denotes a monovalent radical of formula -CqH2qL in which q is a number ranging from 2 to 8, and L is an optionally quaternized amino group chosen from the groups:
    -N (R) 2 ; -N + (R) 3 A-; -NR-QN (R) 2and-NR-QN + (R) 3 A-, in which R, identical or different, denotes hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, or a saturated monovalent hydrocarbon radical, for example a C1C20 alkyl radical; Q denotes a group of formula C r H 2r , linear or branched, r being an integer ranging from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4; and A- represents a cosmetically acceptable anion, in particular halide such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.
    A first group of amino silicones corresponding to formula (B) is represented by the silicones called trimethylsilylamodimethicone corresponding to formula (C):
    (CH 3 ) 3 If ch 3
    I
    O - Si - I ch 3
    CH,
    I 3 —If (CH 2 ) 3
    OSi (CH 3 ) 3
    NH (ÇH 2 ) 2 (C) nh 2 in which m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000, in particular from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1999 , and in particular from 49 to 149 and m can designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10.
    A second group of amino silicones corresponding to formula (B) is represented by the silicones of formula (D) below:
    CH 3
    R 1 -If ch 3 ch 3
    O —Si - ch 3 î 2
    O —If - (ÇH 2 ) 3
    NH (ÇH 2 ) 2
    Çh 3 o — Si — R 3 ch 3 (D) nh 2 in which:
    - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200; n being able to designate a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 249 and more particularly from 125 to 175 and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10, more particularly from 1 to 5;
    - R1, R2, R3, identical or different, represent a hydroxy or C1-C4 alkoxy radical, at least one of the radicals R1 to R3 denoting an alkoxy radical.
    Preferably the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.
    The hydroxy / alkoxy molar ratio preferably ranges from 0.2: 1 to 0.4: 1 and preferably from 0.25: 1 to 0.35: 1 and more particularly is equal to 0.3: 1.
    The weight average molecular weight (Mw) of these silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1,000,000, more particularly from 3,500 to 200,000.
    A third group of amino silicones corresponding to formula (B) is re3059900 presented by the silicones of formula (E) below:
    CH 3
    R 1 -Si— ch 3
    Ç H 3 o —Sich 3
    O —If - (ÇH 2 ) 3
    NH (ÇH 2 ) 2
    Hh 3
    O — Si — R 2 ch 3 (E) nh 2 in which:
    - p and q are numbers such that the sum (p + q) varies from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 350, and more particularly from 150 to 250; p being able to designate a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 349 and more particularly from 159 to 239 and q being able to designate a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10 and more particularly from 1 to 5;
    - R1, R2, different, represent a hydroxy or C1-C4 alkoxy radical, at least one of the radicals R1 or R2 denoting an alkoxy radical.
    Preferably the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.
    The hydroxy / alkoxy molar ratio generally ranges from 1: 0.8 to 1: 1.1 and preferably from 1: 0.9 to 1: 1 and more particularly is equal to 1: 0.95.
    The weight average molecular mass (Mw) of the silicone preferably ranges from 2000 to 200,000 and even more particularly from 5,000 to 100,000 and more particularly from 10,000 to 50,000.
    Commercial products comprising silicones of structure (D) or (E) may include in their composition one or more other amino silicones whose structure is different from formulas (D) or (E).
    A product containing amino silicones of structure (D) is offered by the company WACKER under the name BELSIL® ADM 652.
    A product containing amino silicones of structure (E) is offered by WACKER under the name Fluid WR 1300® or BELSIL® ADM LOG 1.
    When these amino silicones are used, a particularly advantageous embodiment is their use in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. The oil-in-water emulsion can comprise one or more surfactants. The surfactants can be of any kind but preferably cationic and / or nonionic. The number average size of the silicone particles in the emulsion generally ranges from 3 nm to 500 nanometers. Preferably, in particular as amino silicones of formula (E), microemulsions are used whose average particle size ranges from 5 nm to 60 nanometers (limits included) and more particularly from 10 nm to 50 nanometers (limits included). Thus, it is possible to use according to the invention the amino silicone microemulsions of formula (E) proposed under the names FINISH CT 96 E® or SLM 28020® by the company WACKER.
    Another group of amino silicones corresponding to formula (B) is represented by the silicones of following formula (F):
    CH,
    HO-Si—
    CH,
    CH,
    Yes
    CH,
    CH,
    O —If
    AT
    I
    NH (CH 2 )
    Ç H 3
    -o — Si — OH
    CH, (F)
    2'2
    NH, in which:
    - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10;
    - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical having 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably linear.
    The weight average molecular mass (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1000000 and even more particularly from 3500 to 200000. A silicone corresponding to this formula is for example the XIAMETER MEM 8299 EMULSION from DOW CORNING.
    Another group of amino silicones corresponding to formula (B) is represented by the silicones of following formula (G):
    CH,
    H 3 C-Si—
    CH,
    CH,
    Yes
    CH,
    CH,
    O —If i
    AT
    NH (CH )
    2'2
    NH,
    CH,
    O — If — CH,
    CH, (G) in which:
    - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000 and in particular 305,900 from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1,999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10;
    - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical having 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably branched. The weight average molecular mass (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 500 to 1,000,000 and even more particularly from 1,000 to 200,000. A silicone corresponding to this formula is for example DC2-8566 Amino Fluid from DOW CORNING.
    c) amino silicones corresponding to formula (H):
    r 6 - ch 2 —CHOH — CH 2 - N + (R 5 ) 3 Q (R 5 ) 3 —Si — C
    -If — O
    R c f 5
    -If — OR c
    If- (R 5 )
    5/3 (H) in which:
    - R 5 represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-C6 alkyl or C2-C18 alkenyl radical, for example methyl;
    - R 6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular a C1-C18 alkylene radical or a divalent C1-C18, for example C1-Cs alkyleneoxy radical linked to Si by an SiC bond;
    - Q- is an anion such as a halide ion, especially chloride or an organic acid salt, especially acetate;
    - r represents an average statistical value ranging from 2 to 20, in particular from 2 to 8;
    - s represents an average statistical value ranging from 20 to 200, in particular from 20 to 50.
    Such amino silicones are described in particular in US Pat. No. 4,185,087.
    d) quaternary ammonium silicones of formula (! ’):
    OH
    I r 8 -n-ch 2 -ch-ch-r 6
    R,
    Si-Oi
    R,
    R 7 ζλ r 7 i il
    If —R fi -CH 7 -CHOH-CH 7 -N —Ro! 6 2 2.8 r 7 r 7 d ') in which:
    - R 7 , identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-C18 alkyl radical, a C2-C18 alkenyl radical or a ring comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms , for example methyl;
    - R 6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular a C1-C18 alkylene radical or a divalent alkyleneoxy radical in CiC-is, for example in Ci-Cs linked to Si by an SiC bond;
    - R 8 , identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-C6 alkyl radical, a C2-C18 alkenyl radical, a radical - R6-NHCOR7;
    - X- is an anion such as a halide ion, especially chloride or an organic acid salt, especially acetate;
    - r represents an average statistical value ranging from 2 to 200, in particular from 5 to 100.
    These silicones are for example described in application EP-A-0530974.
    e) amino silicones of formula (J):
    Rir 3 | 1 H 2 N- (C m H 2m ) -NH- (C n H 2n ) -Si- -0- -If - O- -Yes - - R 5 (J) L r 2 J x R 4 3
    in which :
    - Ri, R2, R3 and R 4, identical or different, denote an alkyl radical CiC 4 or phenyl,
    - R 5 denotes an alkyl radical CiC 4 or a hydroxyl group,
    - n is an integer varying from 1 to 5,
    - m is an integer varying from 1 to 5, and
    - X is chosen such that the amine index varies from 0.01 to 1 meq / g.
    f) polyoxyalkylenated multiblock amino silicones, of type (AB) n, A being a polysiloxane block and B being a polyoxyalkylenated block comprising at least one amine group.
    Said silicones preferably consist of repeating units of the following general formulas:
    [- (SiMe 2 O) xSiMe 2 - R -N (R) - R'-O (C2H 4 O) a (C 3 H 6 O) b-R'-N (H) -R-] or [ - (SiMe 2 O) xSiMe 2 - R -N (R) - R '- O (C 2 H 4 O) a (C 3 H 6 O) b-] in which:
    - A is an integer greater than or equal to 1, preferably ranging from 5 to 200, more particularly ranging from 10 to 100;
    - b is an integer between 0 and 200, preferably ranging from 4 and 100, more particularly between 5 and 30;
    - x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10,000, more particularly from 10 to 5,000;
    - R is a hydrogen atom or a methyl;
    - R, identical or different, represent a divalent hydrocarbon radical in C2C12, linear or branched, optionally comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R denotes an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a cal -CH2CH2CH2OCH (OH) CH2-; preferably R denotes a cal -CH2CH2CH2OCH (OH) CH2-;
    - R ', identical or different, represent a divalent hydrocarbon radical in C2C12, linear or branched, optionally comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R 'denotes an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a cal -CH2CH2CH2OCH (OH) CH2-; preferably R 'denotes -CH (CH3) -CH2-,
    The siloxane blocks preferably represent 50 and 95 mol% of the total weight of the silicone, more particularly from 70 to 85 mol%.
    The level of amine is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq / g of copolymer in a 30% solution in dipropylene glycol, more particularly between 0.05 and 0.2.
    The weight average molecular mass (Mw) of the silicone is preferably between 5000 and 1000000, more particularly between 10000 and 200000.
    Mention may in particular be made of the silicones sold under the names SILSOFT A-843 or SILSOFT A + by Momentive.
    The composition preferably comprises one or more silicones corresponding to formula (B), preferably to one of formulas (C), (D), (E), (F) and (G), and very particularly corresponding to the formula (E) or (F).
    When the composition according to the invention comprises said one or more silicones, this or these are preferably included in a total amount ranging from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 2.5% by weight weight, even better from 0.3 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
    In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one silicone chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes and amino silicones, preferably in a total amount ranging from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 2.5% by weight, even better from 0.3 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
    (4) Fatty amides
    The fatty amides which may be present in the composition according to the invention are preferably chosen from compounds of the (amino) alkylamide type of C8-C32 fatty acid, said fatty amides possibly being saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched.
    The composition may, of course, include a mixture of fatty amides.
    Advantageously, the fatty amide (s), saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, in C8-C32 are chosen from the compounds of formula (III):
    R 3 -C (O) -NH-R 4 (III) in which:
    - R 3 is a saturated (alkyl) or unsaturated (alkenyl) hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy groups, comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, or even from 11 to 24 carbon atoms, even better from 13 to 21 carbon atoms,
    - R 4 represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C10 hydrocarbon group, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms such as -O-, -S-, -NH- and / or substituted by one or more hydroxy groups and / or -NR 5 R 6 , where R 5 and R 6 , which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C 4 hydrocarbon chain, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, acyclic; especially methyl.
    Preferably, the fatty amide (s) are chosen from the compounds of formula (III) in which R 3 is a linear, saturated C9-C20 hydrocarbon chain; and R 4 is a saturated C 3 -C 6 linear or branched hydrocarbon chain.
    Preferably, the fatty amide or amides are chosen from the compounds of formula (III) in which R 3 is a linear, saturated, C15Cis hydrocarbon chain; and R 4 is a group - (CH 2 ) 3 -N (CH 3 ) 2 . (INCI name: stearamidopropyl dimethylamine)
    As examples of compounds of formula (III), mention may be made of MACKINE ™ 301 offered by the company MC INTYRE.
    According to a variant of the invention, the fatty amide or amides are preferably chosen from cocamide MEA and cocamide Ml PA.
    When the composition according to the invention comprises said fatty amide (s), this or these are preferably present in a total amount ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 10% by weight , even better from 1 to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
    In a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one fatty amide and at least one silicone as described above; preferably at least one fatty amide chosen from amides of formula (III), better still from amides of formula (III) in which R 3 is a linear, saturated C 15 -C 18 hydrocarbon chain; and R 4 is a group - (CH 2 ) 3 3059900
    N (CH 3 ) 2 and at least one amino silicone chosen from amino silicones corresponding to formula (B), preferably to one of formulas (C), (D), (E), (F) and (G ), and very particularly corresponding to formula (E) or (F); the fatty amide (s) being preferably present in a total amount ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 10% by weight, better still from 1 to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; and the amino silicone (s) being present, preferably, in a total amount ranging from 0.1 to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 1.7% by weight, even better from 0.3 to 1.6 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
    (5) Fatty alcohol
    The composition according to the invention can also comprise one or more fatty alcohols.
    For the purposes of the present invention, fatty alcohol is understood to mean an alcohol comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH, and comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, and which is neither oxyalkylenated (in particular neither oxyethylenated, nor oxypropylenated), nor glycerolated .
    The fatty alcohols according to the invention are preferably of structure R-OH with R denoting a saturated (alkyl) or unsaturated (alkenyl) group, linear or branched, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy groups, comprising from 8 to 40 atoms of carbon, better from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, or even from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, even better from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
    Said fatty alcohol can be liquid or solid; preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one solid fatty alcohol.
    The solid fatty alcohols capable of being used in the context of the present invention are solid at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure (25 ° C., 780 mm Hg), and are insoluble in water, that is to say that they have a solubility in water of less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, at 25 ° C, 1 atm.
    The solid fatty alcohols are preferably of structure R-OH with R denoting a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy groups, comprising from 8 to 40, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, even better from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
    Mention may in particular, alone or in mixture: lauric or lauryl alcohol (1dodecanol); myristic or myristylic alcohol (1-tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (1-hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (1-octadecanol); arachidyl alcohol (1eosanosol); behenyl alcohol (1-docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (1tetracosanol); ceramic alcohol (1-hexacosanol); montanyl alcohol (1octacosanol); myricylic alcohol (1-triacontanol).
    Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and their mixtures such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol.
    Liquid fatty alcohols, in particular those of C10-C34 preferably have branched carbon chains and / or have one or more, preferably 1 to 3, unsaturations, in particular C = C. They are preferably branched and / or unsaturated (double bond C = C), and contain from 12 to 40 carbon atoms.
    The liquid fatty alcohols preferably have the structure R-OH in which R denotes a branched C12-C24 alkyl group or an alkenyl group (comprising at least one C = C24 double bond) in C12-C24, R possibly being substituted by a or more hydroxy groups.
    Preferably, the liquid fatty alcohol is a branched saturated alcohol. Preferably, R does not contain a hydroxy group.
    Mention may in particular be made of oleic alcohol, linoleic alcohol, linolenic alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-octyl-1-dodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyl-1- decanol, 2-decyl-1-tetradecanol, 2-tetradecyl-1-cetanol and their mixtures.
    Preferably, the liquid fatty alcohol is 2-octyl-1-dodecanol.
    The composition according to the invention comprises the fatty alcohol (s), when they are present, preferably in an amount ranging from 0.5 to 20% by weight, in particular from 1 to 9% by weight, or even from 2 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
    (6) Additional cationic surfactants
    The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more additional cationic surfactants, different from the cationic surfactants of formula (I) above and of the fatty amides or amides described above.
    Preferably, said additional cationic surfactant (s) are chosen from:
    - the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (la):
    X (la) in which:
    the groups R 8 to Ru, identical or different, represent an aliphatic group, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups R 8 to Ru having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms; aliphatic groups which may contain heteroatoms such as in particular oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens; and ^ 8 / * 10 n
    RY ^ 1-1 9 * 11
    - X 'is an anion chosen in particular from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl (C-i-C4) sulfates, (Ci-C4) alkyl sulfonates or alkyl (C-i-C4) arylsulfonates.
    The aliphatic groups are for example chosen from C1-C30 alkyl, C1-C30 alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene (C2-C6), C1-C30 alkylamide, (Ci2C22) amidoalkyl (C2-C6), alkyl (C-i2- C22) C1-C30 acetate and hydroxyalkyl.
    Mention may in particular be made of halides and in particular chlorides, of tetraalkylammonium such as dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group contains from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium chlorides, distearyldimethylammonium chlorides, cetyltrimethylammonium chlorides, benzyldimethylstearylammonium.
    Mention may also be made of the halides, and in particular the chlorides, of palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or of stearamidopropyldimethyl- (myristyl acetate) -ammonium; in particular the product sold under the name CERAPHYL® 70 by the company VAN DYK.
    - the quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline of formula (IIa):
    R.
    (Ha) in which
    R12 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids,
    R13 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms,
    Ru represents a C1-C4 alkyl group,
    R15 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group,
    X 'is an anion, in particular chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (Ci-C4) alkyl sulfates, (Ci-C4) alkyl sulfonates or (Ci-C4) alkyl arylsulfonates.
    Preferably, R12 and R13 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups containing from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, Ru denotes a methyl group, R15 denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is for example marketed under the names REWOQUAT® W75 or W90 by the company Evonik.
    - the quaternary di- or triammonium salts of formula (Ilia):
    2+ R i 6 - N— (CH 2 ) 3 - N — R 21
    R.
    '20
    2X (Ilia) in which:
    - Rw denotes an alkyl group comprising from 16 to 30 carbon atoms optionally hydroxylated and / or optionally interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms,
    - R17 denotes hydrogen, an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group - (CH 2 ) 3 -N + (Ri 6 a) (Ri7a) (Ri8a), Riea, Ri7a, Riea, identical or different denote hydrogen or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms,
    - Ris, Rw, R20 and R21, identical or different, denote hydrogen or an alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and
    - X 'is an anion chosen in particular from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (Ci-C4) alkyl sulfates, (Ci-C4) alkyl sulfonates and alkyl (CiC4) aryl-sulfonates, in particular methylsulfate and ethylsulfate.
    Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P offered by the company FINETEX (Quaternium 89) and Finquat CT offered by the company FINETEX (Quaternium 75).
    - quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions of formula (IVa) below:
    (C s H 2s O) z - r 25
    in which :
    R 22 is chosen from C 1 -C 6 alkyl groups and C 1 -C 6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups,
    R 23 is chosen from the group R 26 -C (= O) -; the groups R 27 hydrocarbon-C1C 22 linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; and the hydrogen atom,
    R 25 is chosen from the group R 28 -C (= O) -; linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1C6 hydrocarbon groups R 29 ; and the hydrogen atom,
    R24, R26 and R28, identical or different, are chosen from C7-C 2 i hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, r, s and t, identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6, r1 and t1, identical or different, are worth 0 or 1, y is an integer worth from 1 to 10, x and z, identical or different, are integers worth from 0 to 10,
    X 'is an anion, it being understood that r2 + r1 = 2r and t1 + t2 = 2t, and that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, provided that when x = 0 then R 23 denotes R 2 7 and that when z = 0 then R 25 denotes R 29 .
    The alkyl groups R 22 can be linear or branched, preferably linear. Preferably, R 22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.
    Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is worth from 1 to 10.
    When R 23 is a hydrocarbon R 27 group, it can comprise from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or even comprise from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
    When R 25 is a hydrocarbon R 29 group, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
    Advantageously, R 24 , R 26 and R 28 , identical or different, are chosen from Cn-C 2 i hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and more particularly from Cn-C 2 alkyl and alkenyl groups i, linear or branched.
    Preferably, x and z, identical or different, are worth 0 or 1.
    Advantageously, y is equal to 1.
    Preferably, r, s and t, identical or different, are worth 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.
    The anion X 'is preferably a halide, preferably chloride, bromide or iodide, a (Ci-C4) alkyl, a (Ci-C4) alkyl sulfonate or a (Ci-C4) alkyl arylsulfonate, a methanesulfonate, phosphate, a nitrate, a tosylate, an anion derived from organic acid such as an acetate or a lactate or any other anion compatible with ammonium with ester function. The anion X 'is more particularly a chloride, a methyl sulphate or an ethyl sulphate.
    Use is more particularly made, in the composition according to the invention, of the ammonium salts of formula (IVa) in which:
    - R 22 denotes a methyl or ethyl group,
    - x and y are equal to 1,
    - z is 0 or 1,
    - r, s and t are equal to 2,
    - R 23 is chosen from the group R 26 -C (= O) -; methyl, ethyl or Cu-C 22 hydrocarbon groups, the hydrogen atom,
    - R 25 is chosen from the group R 28 -C (= O) -; the hydrogen atom,
    - R 2 4, R 2 6 and R 28, identical or different, are selected from hydrocarbon groups -C 3 -Ci7 linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and preferably from alkyl and alkenyl groups Cn-Cn linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.
    Advantageously, the hydrocarbon groups are linear.
    Mention may be made, among the compounds of formula (IVa) of the salts, in particular the chloride or methyl sulfate of diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, of diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, of monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethyl methylammonium, of triacyloxyethylmethylammonium, of monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium. The acyl groups preferably have 14 to 18 carbon atoms and more particularly come from a vegetable oil such as palm or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these can be the same or different.
    These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine optionally oxyalkylenated on fatty acids or on mixtures of fatty acids of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification is followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably methyl or ethyl. , methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol or glycerol hydrochloride. Such compounds are for example sold under the names DEHYOUART® by the company HENKEL, STEPANGUAT® by the company STEPAN, NOXAMIUM® by the company CECA, REWOGUAT® WE 18 by the company REWO-WITCO.
    The composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of mono-, di- and triester salts of quaternary ammonium with a majority by weight of diester salts. It is also possible to use the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function described in patents US-A-4,874,554 and US-A-4,137,180. It is also possible to use behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, for example, offered by the company KAO under the name Ouartamin BTC 131. Preferably, the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.
    ^ 8 / ^ 10 N
    Z
    R,
    Preferably, the additional cationic surfactants are chosen from the surfactants of formula (la) or those of formula (IVa), and better still from those of formula (la):
    X (la) in which R 8 = R9 = methyl, Ru represents an aliphatic group, linear or branched, comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and Rio = R9 or else Ri 0 = Rn, and X 'is an anion chosen in particular from the group of halides, in particular chloride, and alkyl (Ci3059900
    C ^ sulfates, especially methosulfate or ethosulfate.
    Halides, in particular chlorides, or alkyl (C1-C4) sulfates, of tetraalkylammonium, such as dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group contains from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular chloride, may be used in particular. or behenyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or methosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium chloride or methosulfate; even more preferably, the cationic surfactant is a behenyltrimethylammonium or cetyltrimethylammonium salt.
    When the composition according to the invention comprises said additional cationic surfactant (s), this or these are included in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 8% by weight, in particular from 0.1 to 5% by weight, better still from 0 , 2 to 4% by weight, or even 0.25 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
    Preferably, the surfactant (s) of formula (I), the additional cationic surfactant (s) if present, and the fatty amide (s), if present, are included in the cosmetic composition in a total amount less than or equal to 10% by weight , preferably ranging from 0.6 to 10% by weight, preferably ranging from 1 to 7% by weight, better ranging from 2 to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
    (7) Nonionic surfactants
    The composition according to the invention can optionally comprise at least one nonionic surfactant.
    They can in particular be chosen from alcohols and alpha-diols comprising at least one fatty chain having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, and alkyl (C-i_2o) phenols, these compounds being polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated, the number of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging from 1 to 100.
    Mention may also be made of condensates of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide on fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average from 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular from 1.5 to 4; ethoxylated sorbitan fatty acid esters preferably having from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide units, sucrose fatty acid esters, esters of polyoxyalkylenated, preferably polyoxyethylenated fatty acids having from 2 to 150 moles ethylene oxide including oxyethylenated vegetable oils, N- (C624 alkyl) glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (C10-14 alkyl) amines or N- ( C10-14 acyl) -aminopropylmorpholine.
    Preferably, ethoxylated sorbitan fatty acid esters are used, polyethoxylated fatty alcohols, polyoxyethylenated fatty acid esters preferably having 2 to 150 moles of ethylene oxide, and mixtures thereof.
    Mention may also be made of nonionic surfactants of the alkylpolyglycoside type, which will be preferred, and in particular those represented by the general formula: R-iO- (R2O) t- (G) v in which:
    - Ri represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical containing 6 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical in which the linear or branched alkyl radical contains 6 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 18 carbon atoms;
    - R 2 represents an alkylene radical containing 2 to 4 carbon atoms,
    - G represents a sugar unit comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms,
    -1 denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10, preferably from 0 to 4,
    - v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4.
    Preferably, the alkylpolyglycoside surfactants are compounds of formula described above in which:
    Ri denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl radical containing from 8 to 18 carbon atoms,
    - R 2 represents an alkylene radical containing 2 to 4 carbon atoms,
    -1 denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3, preferably equal to 0,
    - G denotes glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose;
    - The degree of polymerization, that is to say the value of v, which can range from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4; the average degree of polymerization being more particularly between 1 and 2.
    The glucosidic bonds between the sugar units are generally of type 1-6 or 1-4, preferably of type 1-4. Preferably, the alkylpolyglycoside surfactant is an alkylpolyglucoside surfactant. Particularly preferred are C8 / C16 alkyl-1,4-polyglycosides, and especially decylglucosides and caprylyl / capryl glucosides.
    Among the commercial products, mention may be made of the products sold by the company COGNIS under the names PLANTAREN® (600 CS / U, 1200 and 2000) or PLANTACARE® (818, 1200 and 2000); the products sold by SEPPIC under the names ORAMIX CG 110 and ORAMIX® NS 10; the products sold by the company BASF under the name LUTENSOL GD 70 or the products sold by the company CHEM Y under the name AGIO LK.
    Preferably, C8 / C16-polyglycoside 1,4 alkyls are used, in particular in a 53% aqueous solution, such as those sold by COGNIS under the reference PLANTACARE® 818 UP.
    When the composition comprises one or more nonionic surfactants, this or these are preferably chosen from alcohols comprising at least one fatty chain having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, and polyethoxylates and / or polypropoxylates, the number of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging from 1 to 100.
    Preferably, the composition according to the invention can comprise the nonionic surfactant (s), when they are present, in a total amount ranging from 0.01 to 20% by weight, in particular from 0.05 to 10% by weight, or even 0.1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
    Preferably, the composition according to the invention is aqueous; it can comprise water and / or one or more organic solvents which can be preferably chosen from monoalcohols, linear or branched, in Ci-Cô such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or n -butanol.
    Preferably, the cosmetic composition comprises water at a content ranging from 50 to 99% by weight, in particular from 60 to 99% by weight, better from 70 to 98% by weight, even better from 80 to 97% by weight, or even from 85 to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
    Preferably, the cosmetic composition can comprise the organic solvent (s) at a content ranging from 0.05% to 50%, preferably from 0.5 to 30%, and better still from 1 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
    Preferably, the pH of said cosmetic composition is between 2.5 and 8, for example between 3 and 6.5 and in particular between 3.5 and 5.5.
    The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more usual cosmetic ingredients, in particular chosen from vegetable, mineral, animal or synthetic oils; liquid fatty esters; anionic or amphoteric surfactants; anionic, nonionic, amphoteric and cationic polymers; sun filters; moisturizers; anti-dandruff agents; fall arrest agents; pearlescent and opacifying agents; plasticizers or coalescing agents; hydroxy acids; the charges; the perfumes; alkalinizing or acidifying agents; aldehydes, polymeric or non-polymeric thickeners, and in particular associative polymers; conservatives; sequestrants (EDTA and its salts); coloring matters. A person skilled in the art will take care to choose the ingredients entering into the composition, as well as their quantities, in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, altered by the addition envisaged.
    The composition according to the invention finds in particular a particularly advantageous application in the hair field, in particular for the care and / or conditioning of the hair.
    Preferably, the composition is a cosmetic hair composition, which can be in the form of a cream, a foam (aerosol or not), a paste, a gel, an emulsion, a lotion. , or even a stick; a conditioner; preferably in the form of milk, gel, cream or mask.
    Preferably, the hair cosmetic composition is a mask or a conditioner.
    The composition, preferably cosmetic, in particular hair, can be rinsed or not rinsed after having been applied to keratin materials, hair in particular. It is thus possible to optionally perform a rinsing, for example with water after a possible exposure time.
    The subject of the invention is also a method of cosmetic treatment, in particular of care, cleaning and / or conditioning of keratin materials, in particular of the hair, comprising the application to said materials of a cosmetic composition according to the invention.
    You can optionally perform a rinse, for example with water after a possible exposure time.
    The present invention is illustrated in more detail in the examples which follow (MA = active material).
    Example
    The following hair compositions are prepared, comprising (% by weight of active ingredient MA):
    Ingredients Composition A Composition B Bis- (isostearoyl / oleoyl iso- methosulfate)propyl) dimonium(VARISOFT EQ100®- EVONIK) 2 3 Stearyl alcohol 3 3 Cetyl alcohol 3 3 Stearamidopropyl dimethylamine 2 - Amodimethicone(Belsil ADM LOG 1 - Wacker) - 0.45 MA Behentrimonium chloride (Genamin KDMP - Clariant) - 1.58 MA BHT 0.5 0.5 Preservatives Qs Qs PH agents Qs pH = 4.5 Qs pH = 4.5 Water Qs 100 Qs 100
    The composition is particularly stable (absence of yellowing), in particular after storage for 2 months at 45 ° C.
    The composition can be used as a conditioner.
    The composition is applied to locks of hair previously washed with a shampoo. The locks are then rinsed and dried.
    It is observed that the strands of treated hair are smooth, soft and easy to disentangle.
    权利要求:
    Claims (15)
    [1" id="c-fr-0001]
    1. Composition, in particular cosmetic, in particular hair, comprising:
    (i) at least one cationic quaternary ammonium surfactant corresponding to formula (I):
    CH 3 O H cz CH — CH-OC-R1
    CH — CH-O — C-R2 XCH 3 o in which:
    R1 and R2, identical or different, represent a hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated, comprising 11 to 23 carbon atoms, and X ′ is a cosmetically acceptable counterion;
    (ii) at least one antioxidant agent; and (iii) at least one conditioning agent chosen from silicones and / or fatty amides, preferably chosen from fatty amides, preferentially chosen from C8-C32 fatty amides.
    [2" id="c-fr-0002]
    2. Composition according to the preceding claim, comprising at least one cationic quaternary ammonium surfactant of formula (I) in which R1 and R2, identical or different, contain 13 to 21 carbon atoms, in particular 15 to 19 carbon atoms, and any particularly 17 carbon atoms; and / or R1 and R2, identical or different, comprise at least one double bond (C = C), and in particular a single double bond, two double bonds or three double bonds; in particular, R1 and R2 both represent an oleyl group or R1 represents a stearyl group and R2 represents an oleyl group.
    [3" id="c-fr-0003]
    3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising the said surfactant (s) of formula (I) in an amount ranging from 0.5 to 5% by weight, in particular from 0.75 to 4% by weight, or even from 1 to 3 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
    [4" id="c-fr-0004]
    4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the antioxidant agent (s) correspond to formula (II) or (ll) bis below:
    CH
    I
    O = 0
    ALK
    ALK
    ALK
    R
    ALK '
    ALK
    ALK
    I OH I
    I-14 (II) (ll) bis in which:
    - ALK represents a saturated hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched in C-iC4, in particular in C1-C2; in particular methyl or ethyl;
    - ALK, identical or different, represents a hydrocarbon chain, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, cyclic or acyclic, Ci-C 3 ; and
    - R is an OH, SH or NH 2 group .
    preferably, at least one antioxidant agent corresponds to formula (ll) bis, and even better at least one antioxidant agent is pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate.
    [5" id="c-fr-0005]
    5. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising the antioxidant agent (s) in a total amount ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, in particular ranging from 0.2 to 8% by weight, better ranging from 0, 3 to 5% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.4 to 3% by weight, even better ranging from 0.45 to 2% by weight, and even better ranging from 0.5 to 1.5% by weight, relative the total weight of the composition.
    [6" id="c-fr-0006]
    6. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one silicone chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes and amino silicones.
    [7" id="c-fr-0007]
    7. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising the silicone (s) in a total amount ranging from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 2.5% by weight, even better from 0.3 at 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
    [8" id="c-fr-0008]
    8. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one fatty amide corresponding to formula (III):
    R 3 -C (O) -NH-R 4 (III) in which:
    - R 3 is a saturated (alkyl) or unsaturated (alkenyl) hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy groups, comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, or even from 11 to 24 carbon atoms, even better from 13 to 21 carbon atoms,
    - R 4 represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, CiC-10 hydrocarbon group, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms such as -O-, -S-, -NH- and / or substituted by one or more hydroxy groups and / or -NR 5 R 6 , in which R 5 and R 6 , which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 hydrocarbon chain, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, acyclic; especially methyl.
    [9" id="c-fr-0009]
    9. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising the said fatty amide (s) in a total amount ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 10% by weight, even better from 1 to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
    [10" id="c-fr-0010]
    10. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one fatty alcohol of structure R-OH with R denoting a saturated (alkyl) or unsaturated (alkenyl) group, linear or branched, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy groups, comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, or even from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms; preferably included in an amount ranging from 0.5 to 20% by weight, preferably from 1 to 9% by weight, or even from 2 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
    [11" id="c-fr-0011]
    11. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more additional cationic surfactants, different from the surfactant (s) of formula (I) and from the fatty amides (s) according to claim 1, preferably chosen from:
    - the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (la):
    X (la) ^ 8 / R 10 n
    RB 9 * 11 in which:
    The groups R 8 to Ru, identical or different, represent an aliphatic group, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups R 8 to R11 having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms; aliphatic groups which may contain heteroatoms such as in particular oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens; and X is an anion chosen in particular from the group of halides, phosphates phos3059900, acetates, lactates, alkyl (Ci-C4) sulfates, alkyl (Ci-C4) sulfonates, or alkyl (Ci-C 4) aryl-sulfonates.
    - the quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline of formula (IIa):
    R (Ha) in which
    R12 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids,
    Rn represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms,
    Ru represents a C1-C4 alkyl group,
    Ris represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group,
    X ′ is an anion, especially chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (Ci-C 4 ) alkyl sulfates, (Ci-C 4 alkyl) sulfonates or (Ci-C 4 alkyl) aryl sulfonates.
    - the quaternary di- or triammonium salts of formula (Ilia):
    R i 6 - N— (CH 2 ) 3 - N — R 21
    R.
    2+
    2X (Hla) in which:
    Rw denotes an alkyl group comprising from 16 to 30 carbon atoms optionally hydroxylated and / or optionally interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms,
    Rn denotes hydrogen, an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group - (CH 2 ) 3-N + (Ri 6 a) (Ri7a) (Ri8a), Riea, Ri7a, Risa, identical or different denoting hydrogen or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms,
    Ris, Rw, R20 and R21, identical or different, denote hydrogen or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X 'is an anion chosen in particular from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl (Ci-C 4 ) sulfates, (Ci-C 4 ) alkyl sulfonates and (CiC 4 ) alkyl aryl sulfonates, in particular methylsulfate and ethylsulfate.
    - quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions of formula (IVa) below:
    (C s H 2s O) z —r 25 q Zb R 24 — c - (O — CrHr2 (OH) r1) y — N 4 - (CtH t2 (OH) t1 —0) —R 23 X (IVa)
    R 22 in which:
    R22 is chosen from C 1 -C 6 alkyl groups and C 1 -C 6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups,
    R23 is chosen from the group R 2 6-C (= O) -; linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C22 hydrocarbon groups R 2 7; and the hydrogen atom,
    R25 is chosen from the group R 2 8-C (= O) -; linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C6 hydrocarbon groups R29; and the hydrogen atom,
    R24, R26 and R 2 8, identical or different, are chosen from C7-C21 hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, r, s and t, identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6, r1 and t1, identical or different, are worth 0 or 1, y is an integer worth from 1 to 10, x and z, identical or different, are integers worth from 0 to 10,
    X 'is an anion, it being understood that r2 + r1 = 2r and t1 + t2 = 2t, and that the sum x + y + z is worth from 1 to 15, provided that when x = 0 then R23 denotes R27 and that when z = 0 then R25 denotes R29.
    preferably in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 8% by weight, in particular from 0.1 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.2 to 4% by weight, or even from 0.25 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
    [12" id="c-fr-0012]
    12. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one nonionic surfactant; preferably. in a total amount ranging from 0.01 to 20% by weight, in particular from 0.05 to 10% by weight, or even from 0.1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
    [13" id="c-fr-0013]
    13. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising water at a content ranging from 50 to 99% by weight, in particular from 60 to 99% by weight, better from 70 to 98% by weight, even better from 80 at 97% by weight, or even 85 to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
    [14" id="c-fr-0014]
    14. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, having a pH between 2.5 and 8, for example between 3 and 6.5 and in particular between 3.5 and 5.5.
    [15" id="c-fr-0015]
    15. Cosmetic treatment process, in particular for caring for, cleaning and / or conditioning keratin materials, in particular hair, comprising the application to said materials of a cosmetic composition as defined in one of claims 1 to 14 , optionally followed by rinsing, for example with water after a possible exposure time.
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    同族专利:
    公开号 | 公开日
    FR3059900B1|2019-06-21|
    引用文献:
    公开号 | 申请日 | 公开日 | 申请人 | 专利标题
    FR3026297A1|2014-09-25|2016-04-01|Oreal|COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING QUATERNARY AMMONIUM CATIONIC SURFACTANTS AND ADDITIONAL CATIONIC SURFACTANTS, AND COSMETIC TREATMENT METHOD|
    DE102015223028A1|2015-11-23|2016-06-30|Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa|Hair conditioning agents|WO2020061658A1|2018-09-28|2020-04-02|L'oreal|Hair treatment compositions comprising an esterquat|
    EP3692977A1|2019-02-08|2020-08-12|Kao Corporation|Composition and process for reducing the drying time of solid substrates|
    WO2020160970A1|2019-02-08|2020-08-13|Kao Corporation|Composition and process for reducing the drying time of solid substrates|
    法律状态:
    2017-11-13| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 2 |
    2018-06-15| PLSC| Publication of the preliminary search report|Effective date: 20180615 |
    2019-11-15| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 4 |
    2020-11-12| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 5 |
    2021-11-09| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 6 |
    优先权:
    申请号 | 申请日 | 专利标题
    FR1662444A|FR3059900B1|2016-12-14|2016-12-14|COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING QUATERNARY CATIONIC SURFACTANT, ANTIOXIDANT AGENT AND PARTICULAR CONDITIONER AGENT|
    FR1662444|2016-12-14|FR1662444A| FR3059900B1|2016-12-14|2016-12-14|COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING QUATERNARY CATIONIC SURFACTANT, ANTIOXIDANT AGENT AND PARTICULAR CONDITIONER AGENT|
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