DEVICE FOR MAKE-UP BY TRANSFERRING KERATINIC MATERIALS.

专利摘要:
The present invention relates to a method for manufacturing a device (1) for applying a cosmetic product by transfer to human keratin materials, comprising the step of printing, using at least one digital printer on a surface (3) a cosmetic ink (4), the ink being in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion comprising an emulsifier, ink being liquid at 20 ° C.
公开号:FR3015870A1
申请号:FR1363627
申请日:2013-12-27
公开日:2015-07-03
发明作者:Franck Giron；Henri Samain；Geraldine Fack
申请人:LOreal SA；
IPC主号:

专利说明:

[0001] The present invention relates to the making of a make-up by transferring keratin materials. BACKGROUND It is difficult to obtain a makeup of keratin materials, especially the skin, by transferring an ink deposit printed on a substrate. Indeed, the known inks are such that, once the impression is made, they dry so fast that the transfer to the keratin materials is not achieved. One way of solving this problem is to moisten the transfer surface or the area to be treated with a suitable solvent such as water. However, this method may be unacceptable in that it is not always possible to accurately determine the amount of solvent to be applied, which can lead to "havage" phenomena making the transfer to keratin materials irregular. and / or unspecific and thus leading to unsatisfactory makeup result. Furthermore, it is desirable for the makeup device to provide a satisfactory transfer makeup in the case of a transfer made immediately after printing, or in the next half-hour, but also in the case of a transfer. realized a few days, even a few months after printing. In addition, it is also desirable that, once transferred to keratin materials, especially on the skin, the pattern remains relatively stable. In other words, either immediately after transfer, or for example in the hour following the transfer, it is advantageous that the masked area can be touched, in particular with the fingers, without damaging the pattern produced. However, the makeup coatings conventionally made may not have satisfactory stability. This lack of stability is not necessarily a problem if a high precision of the makeup pattern is not desired. On the other hand, in the case of precise patterns obtained by printing, it is important that the makeup obtained after transfer is stable. There is, therefore, a need for makeup devices 30 for making makeup by single contact transfer, without the addition of solvent, that the user seeks to transfer the pattern just after printing or after a storage period of the device more or less long.
[0002] It is still sought to have transfer makeup devices to obtain, in the hour after the transfer, a stable pattern. Oil-in-water (O / W) and water-in-oil (W / O) emulsions are well known in the field of cosmetics.
[0003] EP-A-728 460 and EP-A-780 114 disclose nano-emulsions based on liquid nonionic amphiphilic lipids or silicone surfactants. Nanoemulsions are also described in FR-A-2,787,026, FR-A-2,787,027, FR-A-2,787,325, FR-A-2,787,326, FR-A-2,787,703, FR-A-2,787,728. US Pat. No. 5,047,084 relates to an ink jet thermal printer ink in the form of a microemulsion comprising an aqueous phase and a water immiscible phase, the latter being solid at ambient temperature and liquid at 70 ° C. . The present invention aims to meet all or part of the needs mentioned above. According to a first aspect, the subject of the present invention is a method of manufacturing a device for applying a cosmetic product by transfer to human keratin materials, comprising the step of printing, with the aid of at least one digital printer, on a transfer surface a layer of at least one cosmetic ink, the ink being in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil emulsion (E / H) and comprising an emulsifying surfactant, the ink being liquid at 20 ° C. The ink may be a makeup and / or care product. The transfer surface is for example an outer surface of a substrate, especially a sheet. Thanks to the invention the user can decorate and / or treat the skin or hair in a united or patterned manner. The implementation of a layer of cosmetic ink obtained by printing with a printer advantageously makes it possible, compared to conventional makeup, to obtain a complex and customizable application. The use of a liquid emulsion at room temperature (20 ° C) increases the achievable color palette by providing a wider range of usable dyes than the simple list of water soluble dyes.
[0004] At the same time as the dyestuff is deposited, it is thus possible to deposit at least one water-immiscible compound which, in particular being fatty, on the one hand facilitates the transfer of the dyestuff, in particular for use on the skin. skin, on the other hand protects the coloring material after printing and helps to preserve the device according to the invention, finally improves the adhesion of the ink to the transfer surface which avoids the risk of separation during manufacture or when holding the device before transfer to keratin materials. The emulsion increases the sharpness of the transferred pattern by allowing the color to be transferred to the skin without the addition of a third composition.
[0005] In addition, it is possible to produce a cosmetic ink comprising hydrophobic dyes and water, without at one enter the viscosity, which thus avoids clogging the nozzles of the printer. In an exemplary embodiment, the cosmetic ink is printed in a predefined pattern, the method comprising in particular a step of selection and / or embodiment of the pattern by a user and transmission, by an apparatus connected to at least one printer performing printing, information associated with this pattern. The device can be a computer, an advanced mobile phone, also called "smartphone", or a touch pad. The apparatus may be physically connected and / or through a data exchange network to said printer. The printer is preferably an inkjet ("Inkjet") printer, for example thermal or piezoelectric. In an exemplary embodiment, the printing is performed directly on a non-planar transfer surface, corresponding in particular to the outer surface of a roll. Cosmetic Environment The cosmetic ink according to the invention constitutes a cosmetically acceptable medium, that is to say compatible with keratin materials such as the skin of the face, scalp or body, the lips, the hair, the skin and the skin. eyelashes, eyebrows and nails. The cosmetic ink may comprise a dyestuff and at least one emulsifier, distinct from the dyestuff.
[0006] The emulsion may have a viscosity at 25 ° C ranging from about 1mPa.s to 500 mPa.s, and preferably from 1mPa.s to 300 mPa.s. The viscosity of an emulsion of the invention can be measured according to any method known to those skilled in the art, and in particular according to the following conventional method. At 25 ° C using a Rhéomat 180, equipped with a mobile rotating at 200 rpm, the skilled person can choose the mobile for measuring the viscosity, among the mobiles, MI or M2 or M3 or M4 on the basis of his general knowledge, so that the measurement can be made. The ink advantageously comprises both a hydrophilic phase comprising one or more compound (s) miscible (s) water at 20 ° C and an oily phase comprising one or more compound (s) immiscible (s) to the water. At an ambient temperature of 20 ° C, the hydrophilic phase can form a dispersed phase in a continuous phase formed by the oily phase; thus, a water-oil emulsion (W / O) is obtained.
[0007] In a preferred variant, the oily phase forms at 20 ° C. a phase dispersed in a continuous phase formed by the hydrophilic phase. Coloring material The coloring material may comprise one or more dyes as described below. The hydrophilic phase and / or the oily phase may each comprise one or more dyes. In particular, the invention makes it possible to use dyes that do not enter the skin, facilitating make-up removal. The coloring material may be present in the ink in a mass content ranging from 0.01 to 60%, based on the total mass of the ink; preferably from 0.1 to 40%; even from 0.1 to 30%, preferably ranging from 0.5 to 20%. The coloring ink may comprise one or more dyestuffs chosen from water-soluble dyes, liposoluble dyes, pulverulent dyestuffs such as pi-ents, in particular nacres, and flakes, or even coloring polymers. By "pigments" it is necessary to include particles of any shape, white or colored, mineral or organic, insoluble in the cosmetic medium, intended to color the cosmetic ink.
[0008] By "nacres", it is necessary to understand particles of any iridescent form, in particular produced by certain shellfish in their shell or else synthesized. The pigments can be white, black or colored, mineral and / or organic. Examples of inorganic ingredients are titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium or cerium oxides, and zinc, iron (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxides, violet manganese, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, metal powders such as aluminum powder, copper powder. Among the organic pigments, mention may be made of carbon black, D & C type pigments, and lacquers based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum. The pearlescent pigments may be chosen from white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium, or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica coated with iron oxides, and titanium mica coated with ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with organic pigment as well as pearlescent elements based on bismuth oxychloride. Among the water-soluble dyes, mention may be made of the disodium salt of a culvert, the disodium salt of alizarin green, quinoline yellow, the trisodium salt of amaranth, the disodium salt of tartrazine, the monosodium salt of rhodamine and the disodium salt. fuchsin, xanthophyll, methylene blue. Among the liposoluble dyes that may be mentioned are Sudan Red DI (CTFA: D & C Red 17), lutein, quinizarin green (CTFA: D & C green 6), alizurol purple SS (CTFA D & C violet No. 2), Sudan brown, DC Yellow 11, orange DC 5, quinoline yellow, curcumin, carotenoid derivatives such as lycopene, betacarotene, bixin or capsanthine, and mixtures thereof. Coloring polymers are generally copolymers based on at least two different monomers, at least one of which is a monomeric organic dye. Such polymeric dyes are known to those skilled in the art. For example, it is possible to refer to the documents: US Pat. No. 5,032,670; U.S. 4,999,418; US 5,106,942; U.S. 5,030,708; US 5,102,980; U.S. 5,043,376; U.S. 5,104,913; US-5,281,659, US-5,194,463; U.S. 4,804,719; WO92 / 07913, or alternatively EP1048282.
[0009] The printing can implement several different inks, including inks of different colors. The printing can implement at least three, including at least four, five, six, seven, eight, nine, ten, eleven or twelve, cosmetic inks of different colors.
[0010] Printing can only use coloring inks that produce primary colors. In a variant, the printing uses both coloring inks producing primary colors and at least one ink producing a non-primary color. In a variant, the printing may use coloring inks producing black and / or white. For example, a black cosmetic ink may comprise a black coloring material selected from carbon black, melanin. A white cosmetic ink may comprise titanium dioxide as a white coloring material. The printing of the ink may be a tri-color or four-color printing. The pattern obtained by printing may have several different color areas. Alternatively, the pattern obtained by printing is a solid color. The ink can be deposited in several printing passes. In other words, one can first print a first fraction of the ink on the transfer surface and then a second fraction of the ink on all or part of the first fraction. In an exemplary embodiment, the substrate is coated with a colored coating in the dry state, the coating comprising a pigment and / or a colorant, the ink layer being printed on the coating. Emulsifiers The synonyms of emulsifier are, for example: amphiphilic lipid, surfactant, surfactant. Amphiphilic lipid here means any molecule having a bipolar structure, that is to say having at least one hydrophobic part and at least one hydrophilic part and having the property of reducing the surface tension of water (y <55mN / m) and to reduce the interfacial tension between water and an oily phase.
[0011] The emulsifier may be present in the cosmetic ink according to the invention in a mass proportion ranging from 0.1% to 30%, and in particular from 0.5% to 20% relative to the total mass of the ink. According to a first embodiment of the invention, the ink may comprise an emulsifier for obtaining an oil-in-water emulsion. As an oil-in-water emulsifier, mention may be made, for example: oxyalkylenated fatty acid and glycerol esters (more particularly polyoxyethylenated); esters of oxyalkylenated fatty acids and of sorbitan (more particularly polyoxyethylenated); oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated); oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol ethers (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated); esters of fatty acids and sugars such as sucrose stearate; and mixtures thereof such as the mixture of glyceryl stearate and PEG-40 stearate; fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol; esters of C16-C22 fatty acids and of glyceryl; C 8 -C 18 fatty acids; oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethers (which can contain from 1 to 150 oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylene groups) of glycerol. The fatty chain of the esters or ethers described above may be a C 12 -C 22 chain; it may especially be chosen from stearyl, behenyl, arachidyl, palmityl and cetyl units and their mixtures such as cetearyl. Preferably, the fatty chain is a stearyl chain. The number of ethylene oxide units can range from 8 to 150, preferably from 10 to 100, and better still from 10 to 60. According to one particular embodiment of the invention, this number can range from 20 to By way of example of fatty acid ester and of polyethylene glycol, mention may be made of stearic acid esters comprising, respectively, 20, 30, 40, 50, 100 ethylene oxide units, such as the products sold under the name Myrj 49 P (polyethylene glycol stearate 20 OE, CTFA name: PEG-20 stearate), Myrj 51, Myrj 52 P (polyethylene glycol stearate 40 0E, CTFA name: PEG-40 stearate), Myrj, respectively. 30 53, Myrj 59 P by the company CRODA. The glyceryl ester of fatty acid can be obtained in particular from an acid comprising a saturated linear alkyl chain having from 16 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0012] As glycerol ester and fatty acid, there may be mentioned glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-, di- and / or tri-stearate) (CTFA name: Glyceryl stearate), glyceryl ricinoleate, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the glyceryl ester of fatty acid used is chosen from glyceryl stearates.
[0013] Silicone surfactants such as dimethicone copolyols (for example that sold under the name Q2-5220® by the company DOW CORN1NG), dimethicone copolyol benzoate (F1NSOLV SLB 101® and 201® from the company HNTEX) can also be used as the emulsifier. Propylene oxide and ethylene oxide copolymers, also known as 0E / OP polycondensates, and mixtures thereof can also be used as emulsifiers. The 0E / OP polycondensates are more particularly copolymers consisting of polyethylene glycol and polypropylene glycol blocks, such as, for example, polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol / polyethylene glycol triblock polycondensates. These triblock polycondensates have, for example, the following chemical structure: ## STR5 ## which is from 2 to 120, and b ranges from 1 to 100. The polycondensate 0E / OP preferably has a weight average molecular weight ranging from 1000 to 15000, and better still from 2000 to 13000. Advantageously, said polycondensate 0E / OP has a cloud temperature, at 10 g / 1 in distilled water, greater than or equal to 20 ° C, preferably greater than or equal to 60 ° C. The cloud temperature is measured according to the ISO 1065 standard. As polycondensate OE / OP that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of the polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol / polyethylene glycol triblock polycondensates sold under the trade names SYNPERONIC® such as the SYNPERONIC PE / L44 ® and SYNPERONIC PE / F127® by ICI. It is also possible to use anionic surfactants, for example salts (in particular alkaline salts, and especially sodium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, aminoalcohol salts or magnesium salts), of the following compounds: alkyl sulphates alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl amido ether sulfates, alkyl aryl polyether sulphates, monoglyceride sulphates; allcylsulfonates, alkylphosphates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, α-olefin-sulfonates, paraffin-sulfonates; (C6-C24) alkylsulphosuccinates, (C6-C24) alkylsulphosuccinates, (C6-C24) alkylamidesulfosuccinates; (C6-C24) alkyl sulphoacetates; acyl (C6-C24) sarcosinates and acyl (C6-C24) glutamates. It is also possible to use (C6-C24) alkylpolyglycoside carboxylic esters such as alkylglucoside citrates, alkylpolyglycoside tartrate and alkylpolyglycoside sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfosuccinamates; acylisethionates and N-acylta.urates, the alkyl or acyl radical of all these different compounds preferably comprising from 12 to 20 carbon atoms, and the aryl radical preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl uptake.
[0014] Among the anionic surfactants that can still be used, mention may also be made of fatty acid salts such as the salts of oleic, ricinoleic, palmitic and stearic acids, coconut oil acid or hydrogenated coconut oil acid; acyl lactylates whose acyl radical has 8 to 20 carbon atoms. It is also possible to use alkyl D galactoside uronic acids and their salts, polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24) alkyl carboxylic ether acids, polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24) aryl ether carboxylic acids, alkyl (C6-C24) amido acids. polyoxyalkylenated carboxylic ether and their salts, in particular those containing from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide increases, in particular ethylene, and mixtures thereof. According to the invention, among the anionic surfactants it is preferred to use alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates and α-olefin sulphonates. It is also possible to use amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactants. Fis can be especially derivatives of aliphatic secondary or tertiary amines, in which the aliphatic radical is a linear or branched chain containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms and containing at least one water-soluble anionic group (for example carboxylate, sulphonate, sulphate, phosphate or phosphonate); mention may also be made of (C 8 -C 20) alkyl betaines, sulfobetaines, (C 8 -C 20) alkylamido (C 1 -C 6) alkyl betaines or (C 8 -C 20) alkylamido (C 1 -C 6) alkyl sulfobetaines. Among the amine derivatives, mention may be made of the products described in US Pat. No. 2,528,378 and US Pat. No. 2,781,354 and of the following structures: ## STR2 ## in which : R 2 CO denotes a C 6 -C 24 acyl radical, for example a radical present in hydrolysed coconut oil, an octoyl, decoy or dodecanoyl radical and their mixtures, R 3 denotes a beta-hydroxyethyl group and R 4 carboxymethyl; and R1-CONHCH2CH2-N (B) (C) (HI) wherein: B represents -CH2CH2OX ', C represents - (CH2) z -Y, with z = 1 or 2, X' denotes the group -CH2CH2- COOH or a hydrogen atom Y 'is -COOH or CH2-CHOH-SO3H, 11. R'2 CO represents a C6-C24 acyl radical, for example a radical present in hydrolysed c9prah oil or linseed oil, octoyl, decoyl or dodecanoyl, stearoyl or isostearoyl, oleoyl and mixtures thereof. . These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, Disodium Lauroamphodiacetate, Disodium Caprylamphodiacetate, Disodium Capryloamphodiacetate, Disodium Coco-amphodipropionate, Disodium Lauroamphodipropionate, Disodium Caprylamphodipropionate, Disodium Capryloamphodipropionate, Lauroamphodipropionic Acid, Cocoamphodipropionic Acid. By way of example, mention may be made of the disodium cocoamphodiacetate marketed under the trade name MIRANOL t74 C2M concentrated by the company RHODIA MME. According to a second embodiment, the ink may comprise a water-in-oil emulsifier chosen from silicone emulsifiers of the alkyldimethicone copolyol type and of the dimethicone copolyol type, the non-silicone W / O emulsifiers of HLB 3 to 7 and their mixtures.
[0015] Emulsifiers of the Alkyldimethicone Copolyol Type and the Dimethicone Copolyol Type The alkyl dimethicone copolyols according to the invention correspond to the following formula (IV): ## STR2 ## In which: R1 denotes a linear or branched C12-C20 and preferably C12-C18 alkyl group; R2 denotes the --CnH2n - (--O2C21J4-) x - (--OC3H6-) y - O - R3, R3 substituent, a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched alkyl radical having from 1 to 12 carbon atoms; a is an integer from 1 to about 500; b is an integer from 1 to about 500; n is an integer from 2 to 12 and preferably 2 to 5; x denotes an integer ranging from 1 to about 50 and preferably del to 30; y denotes an integer ranging from 0 to about 49 and preferably 0 to 29 provided that when y is different from zero the ratio x / y is greater than 1 and preferably varies from 2 to 11.
[0016] Among the preferred alkyldimethicone copolyol emulsifiers of formula (IV), cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 DI I THICONE and more particularly the Cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 mixture DI TICONE and Dimethicone (INCI name) are more particularly mentioned. as the product sold under the trade name ABIL EM90 by GOLDSC II ™ or the mixture (Polyglycery1-4-stearate and Cetyl PEG / PPG-10 (and) Dimethicone (and) Hexyl Laurate) as the product sold under the trade name ABIL WE09 by the same company. The dimethicone copolyols in accordance with the invention correspond to the following formula (V): ## STR2 ## wherein SiO Si -O Si CH 3 CH 3 CH 3 V) in which R4 denotes the group: - CmH2m - (- OC2H4-) s - (- OC3H6-) t - O-R5, R5 denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched alkyl radical containing from 1 to 12 carbon atoms; c is an integer ranging from 1 to about 500 d denotes an integer ranging from 1 to about 500, m is an integer ranging from 2 to 12 and preferably 2 to 5, s denotes an integer ranging from 1 to about 50, and preferably from 1 to 30; t denotes an integer from 0 to about 50 and preferably 0 to 30; With the proviso that the sum s + t is greater than or equal to 1. Among these emulsifiers dimethicone copolyols of formula (V), PEU-18 / PPG-18 Dimethicone and more particularly the mixture CYCLOPENTASELOXANE (and) PEG will be used in particular. -18 / PPG-18 Dimethicone (INCI name) such as the product sold by Dow Coming under the trade name Silicone DC 5225 C or KF-6040 from Shin Etsu. According to a particularly preferred form, use will be made of a mixture of at least one emulsifier of formula (IV) and at least one emulsifier of formula (V). More particularly, a mixture of PEG-18 / PPG-18 Dimethicone and Cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 DIMETHICONE and even more particularly a mixture of (CYCLOPENTASELOXANE (and) PEG-18 / PPG-18 Dimethicone) and Cetyl will be used more particularly. PEG / PPG-10/1 DIMETICONE and Dimethicone or (Polyglyceryl-4-stearate and Cetyl PEG / PPG-10 (and) Dimethicone (and) Hexyl Laurate). The total amount of emulsifiers of formula (IV) and / or of emulsifiers of formula (V) in the composition preferably varies with contents of active material ranging from 0.3 to 8% by weight, and more particularly from 0, 5 to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Non-silicone water-in-oil emulsifiers of HLB 3 to 7 The non-silicone water-in-oil emulsifier can be chosen, for example, from nonionic emulsifiers derived from fatty acid and polyol, alkylpolyglycosides (APG). ), sugar esters and mixtures thereof.
[0017] As nonionic emulsifiers derived from fatty acid and polyol, it is possible in particular to use the fatty acid and polyol esters, the fatty acid having in particular a C 8 -C 24 alkyl chain, and the polyols being, for example, glycerol and sorbitan.
[0018] Examples of fatty acid and polyol esters that may be mentioned include esters of isostearic acid and of polyols, esters of stearic acid and of polyols, and mixtures thereof, in particular esters of isostearic acid and of glycerol, and / or sorbitan. Examples of stearic acid esters and polyols that may be mentioned include polyethylene glycol esters, such as PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel P135 by the company ICI. Examples of glycerol and / or sorbitan esters that may be mentioned are polyglycerol isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Isolan GI 34 by the company Goldschmidt; sorbitan isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 987 by the company ICI; sorbitan isostearate and glycerol, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 986 by the company ICI, the mixture of isostearate of sorbitan and polyglycerol isostearate (3 moles) marketed under the name Arlacel 1690 by the company Unigema and their mixtures.
[0019] The emulsifier can also be chosen from alkylpolyglycosides having an HLB of less than 7, for example those represented by the following general formula (VI): R-O- (G) x (VI) in which R represents a branched alkyl radical and or unsaturated, having from 14 to 24 carbon atoms, G represents a reduced sugar containing from 5 to 6 carbon atoms, and x denotes a value ranging from 1 to 10 and preferably from 1 to 4, and G denotes in particular the glucose, fructose or galactose. The unsaturated alkyl radical may comprise one or more ethylenic unsaturations, and in particular one or two ethylenic unsaturations. As alkylpolyglycosides of this type, mention may be made of alkylpolyglucosides (G = glucose in formula (VI)), and in particular compounds of formula (VI) in which R represents more particularly an oleyl radical (unsaturated C18 radical) or isostearyl radical ( saturated C18 radical), G denotes glucose, x is a value ranging from 1 to 2, especially isostearyl glucoside, oleyl glucoside and mixtures thereof. This alkylpolyglucoside may be used in admixture with a co-emulsifier, more particularly with a fatty alcohol and in particular a fatty alcohol having the same fatty chain as that of the alkylpolyglucoside, that is to say comprising from 14 to 24 carbon atoms. carbon and having a branched and / or unsaturated chain, and for example isostearyl alcohol when the alkylpolyglucoside is isostearyl glucoside, and oleyl alcohol when the alkylpolyglucoside is polyglucoside, optionally in the form of a composition self-emulsifying, as described for example in WO-A-92/06778. For example, the mixture of isostearylglucoside and isostearyl alcohol sold under the name Montanov WO 18 by the company SEPPIC can be used. Mention may also be made of succinic-terminated polyolefins, such as ester-terminated polyisobutylenes and their salts, especially diethanolamine salts, such as the products sold under the names Lubrizol 2724, Lubrizol 2722 and Lubrizol 5603 by the company Lubrizol or the product commercial CHEMCINNATE 2000. The preferred emulsifier is POLYGLYCERYL-3 DIISOSTEARATE (INCI name) marketed under the name LAMEFORM TGI by COGNIS. Hydrophilic Phase The ink may comprise water in a mass content ranging from 19.9% to 97.9% relative to the total mass of the composition, preferably ranging from 29.9% to 89.9%, and preferably ranging from 39.9% to 79.9%.
[0020] The compound (s) of the hydrophilic phase may have a solubility in water at 25 ° C greater than or equal to 5% by weight. The compound (s) of the hydrophilic phase are, for example, chosen from C5-C6 monoalcohols, C2-C6 polyols, C6-C10 esters and C5-C8 ketones. (especially cyclic), C6-C7 aldehydes, C3-C8 cyclic carbonates, C3-C8 cyclic ureas, C2-C6 amino alcohols, C3-C6 diamines, water-miscible amino silicones as SILICONE QUATERNIUM-8 (INC4 name for example sold under the name "SILSENSE Q-Plus Silicone" by NOVEON, the PEU-7 AMODIMETHICONE (INCI name) for example sold under the name "SILSENSE A-21 SILICONE" by NOVEON and their mixtures.
[0021] In an exemplary embodiment, the compounds of the hydrophilic phase comprise a mixture of at least two different C2-C6 polyols, in particular at least three different C2-C6 polyols, in particular at least four different C2 polyols. C6.
[0022] The hydrophilic phase may comprise one or more hydrophilic organic solvent (s) such as alcohols and in particular lower linear or branched monoalcohols having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms such as ethanol, isopropanol or naphthalene. propanol, butanol, hexanol, and polyols such as glycerin, diglycerol, propylene glycol, sorbitol, pentylene glycol, and polyethylene glycols, or alternatively C2 ethers and C2-C4 aldehydes. hydrophilic. Oily phase The compound (s) of the oily phase may have a solubility in water at 25 ° C of less than 5% by weight.
[0023] The compound (s) of the oily phase may be chosen from the oils usually used in cosmetics which may be chosen from natural or synthetic, carbonaceous, hydrocarbon, fluorinated or optionally branched oils, alone or as a mixture. The term "non-volatile oil" means an oil capable of remaining on the skin at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least one hour and having in particular a vapor pressure at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure, which is not zero, less than 0.01 mmHg (1.33 Pa). Non-volatile carbonaceous oils, in particular hydrocarbon, vegetable, mineral, animal or synthetic oils, such as paraffin oil (or petroleum jelly), squalane, hydrogenated polyisobutene (Parleam), perhydrosqualene, may be mentioned in particular. macadamia, soya, sweet almond oil, calophyllum, palm, grape seed, sesame, corn, arara, rapeseed, sunflower, cotton, apricot, castor oil avocado, jojoba, olive or cereal sprouts, shea butter; linear, branched or cyclic esters having more than 6 carbon atoms, especially 6 to 30 carbon atoms, such as esters of lanolic acid, oleic acid, lauric acid and stearic acid; esters derived from acids or alcohols with a long chain (that is to say having from 6 to 20 carbon atoms), in particular esters of formula RCOOR 'in which R represents the residue of a higher fatty acid comprising 7 to 19 carbon atoms and R 'represents a hydrocarbon chain comprising from 3 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular C12-C36 esters, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate and stearate. of butyl, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyl-decyl laurate, 2-octyl decyl palmitate, myristate or 2-octyl-dodecyl lactate, di (2-ethyl hexyl) succinate, diisostearyl malate, glycerin or diglycerine triisostearate; higher fatty acids, especially C14-C22 fatty acids, such as myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid or isostearic acid; higher fatty alcohols, especially C16-C22, such as cetanol, oleic alcohol, linoleic or linolenic alcohol, isostearyl alcohol or octyl dodecanol; and their mixtures. Mention may also be made of decanol, dodecanol, octadecanol, liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, for instance triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids and triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids; linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as liquid paraffins and derivatives thereof, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as parleam; esters and synthetic ethers, in particular of fatty acids, for example purcellin oil, isopropyl myristate, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, erucate octy1-2-dodecyl, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of alcohols; polyol esters such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters; fatty alcohols having 12 to 26 carbon atoms such as octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol. Among the volatile compounds that may be mentioned are non-silicone volatile oils, especially C 8 -C 16 isoparaffins such as isododecane, isodecane and isohexadecane. More preferentially, mention may be made of alkanes which are liquid at room temperature, volatile or otherwise, and more particularly decane, heptane, dodecane, isododecane, isohexadecane, cyclohexane and isodecane, and mixtures thereof. Among the preferred compounds of the oily phase are, for example, isododecane (boiling point: 180 ° C.), isopropyl myristate (boiling point: 168 ° C.), isostearyl alcohol. (boiling point: 331 ° C), isodecyl neopentanoate (boiling temperature: 272 ° C), isononyl isononanoate (boiling temperature: 285 ° C), oleyl alcohol (temperature boiling point: 315 ° C), octy1-2 dodecanol (boiling point: 358 ° C), isopropyl palmitate (boiling point: 340 ° C), isopropyl isostearate (temperature boiling point: 361 ° C), and mixtures thereof.
[0024] The oil may be present in the ink composition in a content of from 2% to 60% by weight based on the total mass of the ink, preferably from 2% to 40%, preferably from from 70% to 70%, particularly preferably from 2% to 25%. The oily phase may also comprise solid bodies at ambient temperature, such as waxes. By "wax" is meant a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25 ° C.), with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30 ° C. and up to 120 ° C. vs. By bringing the wax to the liquid state (melting), it is possible to render it miscible with the oils that may be present and to form a homogeneous mixture microscopically, but by bringing the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, recrystallization of the mixture is obtained. wax in the oils of the mixture. The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (D.S.C.), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by the company METLER.
[0025] The waxes may be hydrocarbon-based, fluorinated and / or silicone-based and may be of vegetable, mineral, animal and / or synthetic origin. In particular, the waxes have a melting point greater than 25 ° C. and better still greater than 45 ° C. As wax that can be used in the ink, mention may be made of beeswax, carnauba or candelilla wax, paraffin wax, microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or pozokerite; synthetic waxes such as polyethylene or Fischer Tropsch waxes, silicone waxes such as alkyl or alkoxy dimeticone containing from 16 to 45 carbon atoms. The nature and the quantity of the waxes depend on the mechanical properties and the textures sought. As an indication, the ink in emulsion form may contain from 0.01 to 30% by weight of waxes, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic ink and better still from 1 to 20% by weight.
[0026] Additional Compounds The ink may also include additional compounds such as perfumes, preservatives. The cosmetic ink may have no particulate filler.
[0027] In one variant, the cosmetic ink further comprises one or more fillers, especially in a content ranging from 0.01% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic ink, preferably ranging from 0.01 % to 30% by weight. By "fillers" is meant any colorless or white, mineral or synthetic particles of any form, insoluble in the medium of the ink regardless of the temperature at which the ink is manufactured. These charges serve in particular to modify the rheology or the texture of the ink. The fillers can be mineral or organic of any form, platelet, spherical or oblong, irrespective of the crystallographic form (for example sheet, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, etc.). Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, polyamide (Nylon®) powders (Orgasol® from Atochem), poly-P-alanine and polyethylene, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders (Teflon). ®), lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride, polymeric hollow microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile such as Expancel® (Nobel Industrie), acrylic acid copolymers (Polytrap® from Dow Coming) and silicone resin microbeads (Toshiba Tospearls®, for example), elastomeric polyorganosiloxane particles, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydrocarbonate, hydroxyapatite, microspheres hollow silica (Silica Beads® from Maprecos), glass or ceramic microcapsules, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example, zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate. Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional compounds, and / or their quantity, in such a way that the advantageous properties of the coloring ink are not, or not substantially, impaired by the addition considered.
[0028] The use of an emulsion or nano-emulsion ink also makes it possible to improve the operation of the printer nozzles by virtue of the physicochemical properties of the emulsion or of the nanoemulsion. The invention makes it possible to use the cosmetic qualities of an emulsion or a nano-emulsion, for example a care softness effect (on the skin or on the hair), or even an effect of assistance with the penetration of the compounds. dyes or care actives, especially for the skin. The emulsion or nanoemulsion is advantageous for bringing skin or hair care benefits, or facilitating the transfer of third-party compounds, such as care ingredients, including in exemplary embodiments for which the coloring matter, comprising especially water-soluble dyes, does not require emulsion or nanoemulsion. Another advantage of an emulsion lies in the compartmentalization properties that these physicochemical forms allow. For example, compounds that are incompatible with one another may be used. This also makes it possible to combine, if necessary, in the same cartridge two or more dyes, one of which is hydrophilic and the other is hydrophobic. This refines the color shade obtained, and reduces the number of cartridges to use while achieving an important color palette. Nanoemulsion Nanoemulsions are emulsions characterized by a droplet size of the dispersed phase of the order of a few tens of nanometers. The droplet size of the discontinuous dispersed phase is for example between 10 and 200 nanometers. In a manner known to those skilled in the art, a nanoemulsion may have an opaque or translucent appearance. The translucent aspect of these emulsions comes from the small size of the droplets of the dispersed phase, small size obtained through the use of mechanical energy and in particular a high pressure homogenizer. The process for preparing a nanoemulsion according to the invention consists, for example, in mixing the aqueous phase and the oily phase, with vigorous stirring, at a temperature ranging from 10 ° C. to 80 ° C., and in carrying out a step of high pressure homogenization at a pressure greater than 5.107 Pa.
[0029] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, a high pressure homogenization step is then further carried out at a pressure greater than 5.107 Pa. High pressure homogenization is preferably carried out at a pressure ranging from 6.107 to 18.107 Pa. Shear is preferably from 2.106 s-1 to 5.108 s-1 and better from 1.108 s-1 to 3.108 s-1. The nanoemulsion according to the invention is preferably prepared at a temperature ranging from 4 to 45 ° C. The nanoemulsion according to the invention may have a transparent appearance to bluish.
[0030] The transparency of the nanoemulsion according to the invention may have a transmittance coefficient, measured at 600 nm, ranging from 10 to 90%. The turbidity of the nanoemulsion according to the invention ranges, for example, from 60 to 400 NTU and preferably from 70 to 300 NTU, measured turbidity at the portable turbidimeter HACH - Model 2100 P at approximately 25 ° C.
[0031] The ink may be an N / O emulsion comprising oil globules having an average size of less than 100 nm, preferably ranging from 20 to 80 nm, more preferably from 40 to 60 nm. The decrease in the size of the globules makes it possible to better convey active agents and to promote their penetration into the superficial layers of the skin.
[0032] The nanoemulsion may comprise a hydrophilic phase, an oily phase and surfactants as described above. The nanoemulsion according to the invention is preferably an oil-in-water emulsion comprising an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase. Surfactants The nanoemulsion, in particular the oily phase, may comprise at least one amphiphilic lipid, preferably at least one nonionic amphiphilic lipid. The nanoemulsion, in particular the oily phase, can also comprise an ionic amphiphilic lipid. The oily phase and the amiralophilic lipid (s) are, for example, present in the ink in a mass content such that the oily phase / amphiphilic lipid (s) mass ratio ranges from 3 to 14. ", Especially from 2 to 6.
[0033] Depending on its more hydrophilic or lipophilic character, the nonionic or ionic amphiphilic lipid may be introduced into the aqueous phase or into the oily phase of the nanoemulsion. The total mass content of nonionic and ionic amphiphilic lipids may preferably range from 0.25 to 15% and preferably from 1 to 10% with respect to. the total mass of the nano emulsion. The nonionic amphiphilic lipids may be present in the nanoemulsion according to the invention in a mass content ranging from 0.2% to 12%, relative to the total mass of the ink, and preferably ranging from 0.2% at 8%, and preferably ranging from 0.2% to 6%.
[0034] When the nanoemulsion contains one or more ionic amphiphilic lipids, they are present in the emulsion nana of the invention, preferably in a mass concentration ranging from 0.01 to 6% relative to the total mass of the nanoemulsion and more particularly 0.2 to 4%. The nonionic amphiphilic lipids of the invention are preferably chosen from; the silicone surfactants, the amphiphilic lipids which are liquid at a temperature of less than or equal to 45 ° C., chosen from esters of at least one polyol of at least one fatty acid comprising at least one saturated or saturated C8-C8 alkyl chain; unsaturated, linear or branched, and in particular unsaturated or branched, the polyol being selected from the group consisting of polyethylene glycol having from 1 to 60 ethylene oxide units, the sorbitan, the glycerol may contain from 2 to 30 units of d ethylene oxide, polyglycerols comprising from 2 to 15 glycerol units, fatty acid esters of sugar and fatty alcohol and sugar ethers, solid surfactants at a temperature of 45 ° C. , chosen from glycerol fatty esters, sorbitan fatty esters and oxyethylenated sorbitan fatty esters, ethoxylated fatty ethers and ethoxylated fatty esters, ethylene oxide (A) and propylene (13), and mixtures of these surfactants.
[0035] The silicone surfactants that can be used according to the invention are silicone compounds comprising at least one oxyethylenated chain -OCH 2 CH 2 - and / or oxypropylene-OCH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -.
[0036] Silicone surfactants that may be used according to the present invention include those described in US-A-5,364,633 and US-A-5,411,744. Preferably, the silicone surfactant used according to the present invention is a compound of formula (VII) - CH 3 SiH 3 CH 3 CH 3 CH 3 CH 3 CH 3 H 3 SHO Si-R 3 R 2 B CH 3 A VII) in which: R1, R2, R3, independently of one another, represent a C1-C6 alkyl radical or a radical - (CH2) x- (OCH2CH2) y- (OCH2CH2CH2) z-OR4, at least one radical; R1i R2 or R3 not being an alkyl radical; R4 being a hydrogen, an alkyl radical or an acyl radical; A is an integer from ø to 200; B is an integer from 0 to 50; provided that A and B are not equal to zero at the same time; x is an integer from 1 to 6; y is an integer from 1 to 30; Z is an integer from 0 to 5. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, in the compound of formula (VII), the alkyl radical is a methyl radical, x is an integer ranging from 2 to 6 and y is an integer ranging from 4 to 30. By way of example of silicone surfactants of formula I, there may be mentioned the compounds of formula II (CF13) 3510 - [(C1-13) 2SiOHCH3SiO), - Si (CH3) 3 3 AI (C112) 2 (OCH2Cl2) y-OH wherein A is an integer from 20 to 105, B is an integer from 2 to 10 and y is an integer from 10 to 20 Mention may also be made, by way of example, of silicone surfactants of formula 25, the compounds of formula (D) H- (OCH 2 CH 2) y- (CH 2) 3 - [(CH 3) 2 SICH 2) 3- (O-CH 2 CH 2) y -OH (IX) wherein A 'and y are integers ranging from 10 to 20.
[0037] As silicone surfactants, those marketed by the company Dow Corning under the names DC 5329, DC 7439-146, DC 2-5695 and Q4-3667 may be used in particular. Compounds DC 5329, DC 7439-146, DC 2-5695 are compounds of formula (where A is 22, B is 2 and Y is 12, A is 103, B is 10, and Y is 11, A is 27, , B is 3 and y is 12. The compound Q4-3667 is a compound of formula (IX) where A is and y is 13. Amphiphilic lipids which are liquid at a temperature of less than or equal to 45 ° C may be chosen from: polyethylene glycol isostearate of molar weight 400 (CTFA name: PEG-8 Isostearate), sold under the name Prisorine 3644 by the company Unichema - diglyceryl isostearate, sold by Solvay - polyglycerol laurate comprising 2 units of glycerol (polyglyceryl-2 laurate), sold under the name Diglyeerin-monolaurate by the company Solvay, and sorbitan oleate, sold under the name Span 80 by the company ICI 15-sorbitan isostearate, sold under the name the denomination NEKKOL SI 10R by the company NIK.K0 - the cocoate of a-buty lglucoside or the caprate of a-butylglucoside marketed by the company ULICE. The fatty acid and sugar esters which can be used as non-ionic amphiphilic lipids in the nanoemulsion according to the invention are preferably solid at a temperature of less than or equal to 45 ° C. and may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of C8-C22 fatty acid esters with sucrose, maltose, glucose or fructose, and esters or mixtures of C4-C22 fatty acid esters and methylglucose. The C8-C22 or C14-C22 fatty acids forming the fatty unit of the esters which can be used in the nanoemulsion of the invention comprise a saturated or unsaturated linear alkyl chain having, respectively, 8 to 22 or 14 to 22 atoms. of carbon. The fatty unit of the esters may in particular be chosen from stearates, behenates, arachidonates, palmitates, myristates, laurates, caprates and their mixtures. Stearates are preferably used. Examples of esters or mixtures of fatty acid esters and sucrose, maltose, glucose or fructose, sucrose monostearate, sucrose distearate, sucrose tristearate and the like. mixtures thereof, such as the products marketed by Croda under the name Crodesta F50, F70, F110, F160 respectively having a HUI (Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance) of 5, 7, 11 and 16; and by way of example of esters or mixtures of t- acid esters. and methylglucose, methyl glucose and polyglycerol-3 distearate, sold by Goldschmidt under the name Tego-care 450. Mention may also be made of glucose or maltose monoesters such as 6-hexadecanoyl methyl glucoside and o-hexadecanoyl-6-Dmaltoside. The alcohol and sugar ethers which can be used as non-ionic amphiphilic lipids in the nanoemulsion according to the invention are preferably solid at a temperature of less than or equal to 45 ° C. and can be chosen in particular from the group consisting of ethers or mixtures of C 8 -C 22 fatty alcohol ethers and glucose, maltose, sucrose or fructose and ethers or mixtures of C 14 -C 22 fatty alcohol ethers and methylglucose. These are in particular alkylpolyglucosides. The C8-C22 or C14-Cu fatty alcohols forming the fatty unit of the ethers that can be used in the nanoemulsion of the invention comprise a saturated or unsaturated linear alkyl chain having, respectively, 8 to 22 or 14 to 22 atoms. of carbon. The fatty unit of the ethers may especially be chosen from decyl, cetyl, behenyl, arachidyl, stearyl, palmityl, myristyl, lauryl, capryl and hexadecanoyl units, and mixtures thereof such as cetearyl. By way of example of fatty alcohol ethers and of sugar which can be used in the invention, mention may be made of alkylpolyglucosides such as decylglucoside and laurylglucoside sold, for example, by Henkel under the respective names of Plantaren 2000 and Plantaren 1200, cetostearylglucoside optionally mixed with cetostearyl alcohol, sold for example under the name Montanov 68 by the company Seppic, under the name Tego-c, are CG90 by the company Goldsclunidt and under the name Emulgade KE3302 by the company Henkel, as well as arachidylglucoside, for example in the form of a mixture of arachidic and behenic alcohols and arachidylglucoside, sold under the name Montanov 202 by Seppic.
[0038] More particularly used as nonionic amphiphilic lipid of this type, sucrose monostearate, sucrose distearate, sucrose tristearate and mixtures thereof, methyl glucose and polyglycerol-3 distearate and alkylpolyglucosides. The fatty esters of glycerol, which can be used as nonionic amphiphilic lipids in the nanoemulsion according to the invention, which are solid at a temperature of 45 ° C., can be chosen in particular from the group comprising esters formed of at least one acid comprising a chain. saturated linear alkyl, having from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, and from 1 to 10 glycerol units. One or more of these glycerol fatty esters may be used in the nanoemulsion of the invention.
[0039] These esters may especially be chosen from stearates, behenates, arachidates and palmitates, and mixtures thereof. Stearates and palmitates are preferably used. Examples of surfactants that can be used in the nanoemulsion according to the invention are the monostearate, distearate, tristearate and pentastearate of decaglycerol (10 units of glycerol) (CTFA names: Polyglyceryl-10 stearate, Polyglyceryl-10 distearate, Polyglyceryl-10 tristearate, Polyglyceryl-10 pentastearate) such as the products sold under the respective names Nikkol Decag, Lyn-S, 2-S, 3-S and 5-S by the company Niklco, and the diglyceryl monostearate (named CTFA: Polyglyceryl-2 stearate) such as the product sold by Nikko under the name Nilckol DGMS.
[0040] The fatty esters of sorbitan, usable as nonionic amphiphilic lipids in the nanoemulsion according to the invention, which are solid at a temperature of less than or equal to 45 ° C., are chosen especially from the group comprising the C 16 -C 22 fatty acid esters and of sorbitan and the C16-C22 fatty acid esters and oxyethylenated sorbitan. Es are formed from at least one fatty acid having at least one linear saturated alkyl chain, having respectively from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, and sorbitol or ethoxylated sorbitol. The oxyethylenated esters generally comprise from 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units and preferably from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide units (OE). These esters may especially be chosen from stearates, behenates, arachidates and palmitates, and mixtures thereof. Stearates and palmitates are preferably used. As an example of sorbitan fatty ester and of oxyethylenated sorbitan fatty ester, usable in the nanoemulsion of the invention, mention may be made of sorbitan monostearate (CTFA name: Sorbitan stearate) sold by the company ICI under the name Span 60 denomination, sorbitan monopalmitate (CTFA name: Sorbitan palmitate) sold by ICI under the name Span 40, sorbitan tristearate 20 OE (CTFA name: Polysorbate 65) sold by the company ICI under the name Tween 65.
[0041] The ethoxylated fatty ethers which are solid at a temperature of less than or equal to 45 ° C., which can be used as nonionic amphiphilic lipids in the nanoemulsion according to the invention, are preferably ethers formed from 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units and from at least one chain of fatty alcohol having from 16 to 22 carbon atoms. The chain of the ethers may be chosen in particular from behenyl, arachidyl, stearyl and cetyl units, and mixtures thereof such as cetearyl. By way of example of ethoxylated fatty ethers, mention may be made of behenic alcohol ethers comprising 5, 10, 20 and 30 ethylene oxide units (CTFA names Beheneth-5, Beheneth-10, Beheneth-20, Beheneth-30), such as the products sold under the names Nikkol BB5, BB10, BB20, BB30 by the company Nikko, and the stearyl alcohol ether comprising 2 ethylene oxide units (CTFA name: Steareth-2). ), such as the product sold under the name Brij 72 by the company ICI. The solid ethoxylated fatty esters at a temperature of less than or equal to 45 ° C., which can be used as nonionic amphiphilic lipids in the nanoemulsion according to the invention, are esters formed from 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units and from at least one fatty acid chain with 16 to 22 carbon atoms. The fatty chain of the esters may especially be chosen from stearate, behenate, arachidate and palmitate units, and mixtures thereof. By way of example of ethoxylated fatty esters, mention may be made of the stearic acid ester comprising 40 ethylene oxide units, such as the product sold under the name Myrj 52 (CITA name: PEG-40 stearate) by the company ICI as well as the behenic acid ester comprising 8 units of ethylene oxide (CITA name: PEU-8 behenate), such as the product sold under the name Compritol HD5 ATO by the company Gattefosse. Block copolymers of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide, which can be used as nonionic amphiphilic lipids in the emulsion group according to the invention, may be chosen in particular from block copolymers of formula (X): HO (C2H40) x Wherein X, y and z are integers such that x + z is from 2 to 100 and formula (X) having a FILB ranging from 2 to 16.
[0042] These block copolymers may especially be chosen from poloxamers and especially from Poloxamer 231, such as the product sold by the company ICI under the name Pluronic L81 of formula (X) with x = z = 6, y = 39 (HLB 2); Poloxamer 282 such as the product sold by the company ICI under the name Pluronic L92 of formula (V) with x = z = 10, y = 47 (HLB 6); and Poloxamer 124, such as the product sold by ICI under the name Pluronic L44 of formula (X) with x = z = 11, y = 21 (HLB 16). As nonionic amphiphilic lipids, mention may also be made of the mixtures of nonionic surfactants described in document EP-A-705593. Among the non-ionic amphiphilic lipids, it is possible in particular to use: isostearate of PEU 400 or PEU-8 isostearate (comprising 8 moles of ethylene oxide), - isostearate of diglyceryl, polyglycerol monolaurate containing 2 units of glycerol and polyglycerol stearates having 10 units of glycerol, sorbitan oleate, sorbitan isostearate, and mixtures thereof. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the nanoemulsion of the invention may further contain one or more ionic amphiphilic lipids, in particular one or more anionic or cationic lipids, different from the previously described nonionic amphiphilic lipids. Their addition can further improve the stability of the dispersion. Thus, the anionic amphiphilic lipids that can be used in the nanoemulsions of the invention are preferably chosen from: - the alkaline salts of the diket: td- and dimyristylphosphate; the alkaline salts of cholesterol sulfate; (XI) wherein R represents C16-C22 alkyl radicals, in particular radicals C161133 and C181137 taken as a mixture or separately and M is an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal such as sodium; and their mixtures. The cationic amphiphilic lipids which can be used in the nanoemulsions of the invention are preferably selected from the group consisting of quaternary ammonium salts, fatty amines and their salts. The quaternary ammonium salts are, for example: those which have the following general formula (XII): ## STR3 ## in which the radicals R 1 to R 4, which may be identical or different, represent a linear aliphatic radical; or branched, having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic radical such as aryl or alkylaryl. The aliphatic radicals can comprise heteroatoms such as in particular oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, halogens. The aliphatic radicals are, for example, chosen from alkyl, alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene (C 2 -C 6), alkyl amide, (C 12 -C 22) alkylamido (C 2 -C 6) alkyl, (C 12 -C 22) alkyl, hydroxyalkyl radical having approximately from 1 to 30 carbon atoms; the alkaline salts of cholesterol phosphate; lipoamino acids and their salts, such as mono- and di-sodium acylglutamates, such as the disodium salt of N-stearoyl L-glutamic acid sold under the name Acylglutamate HS21 by the company Ajinomoto; the sodium salts of phosphatidic acid; phospholipids; the alkylsulphonic derivatives in particular of formula (XE): ## STR2 ## X is an anion selected from the group consisting of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyls (C2). -C6) sulfates, alkyl-or-alkylarylsulfonates, - the quaternary ammonium salts of imidazolinium, such as for example that of the following formula 11: R6 H2 CCN (R8) -CO-R5 Nif H2 R7 5 111 in which R5 represents an alkenyl or alkyl radical containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R6 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl radical or an alkenyl or alkyl radical containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R7 represents a C1-C4 alkyl radical, R8 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl radical, X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulphates, alkyl or alkylarylsulphonates. Preferably, R 5 and R 6 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl radicals containing from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow, R 7 denoted as methyl, R 8 denotes hydrogen. Such a product is, for example, sold under the name "REWOQUAT W 75" by the company REWO. Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula I, on the one hand, tetraalkylammonium chlorides, for example chlorides of dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium, in which the alkyl radical contains about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, benzyl dimethylstearylammonium chlorides or, on the other hand, stearamidopropyldimethyl (myristyl acetate) ammonium chloride sold under the name "Ceraf'Hyl 70" by the company Van Dyk. Behenyltrimethylammonium chloride is the most preferred quaternary ammonium salt. the quaternary diammonium salts of formula (XIV): ## STR5 ## in which R 9 denotes an aliphatic radical containing from about 16 to 30 carbon atoms, R.sub.10 , R11, R12, R13 and R14, which are identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methylsulphates . Such quaternary diammonium salts include especially propane dichloride diammonium. the quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function. The quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function that may be used according to the invention are, for example, those of the following formula (XV): ## STR2 ## YR- (CP H21) ## STR2 ## Wherein R 15 is selected from C 1 -C 6 alkyl radicals and R 6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl radicals is selected from R 1 - radical R 9 -C - R 2 hydrocarbon radicals C1-C22 linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, - the hydrogen atom, - R18 is chosen from: o - the radical R2TC- - R22 hydrocarbon radicals C1-C6 linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, ++ 2X - the hydrogen atom, - R17, R19 and R21, identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C21 hydrocarbon radicals; n, p and r, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6; y is an integer from 1 to 10; x and z, identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10; - X- is a simple or complex anion, organic or inorganic; with the proviso that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then R16 is R20 and that when z is 0 then R18 is R22. The alkyl radicals R15 may be linear or branched and more particularly linear. Preferably, R 15 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl radical and more particularly a methyl or ethyl radical. Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10. When R16 is a hydrocarbon R20 radical, it may be long and have from 12 to 22 carbon atoms or short and have from 1 to 3 carbon atoms. When R 18 is a hydrocarbon radical R 22, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms. Advantageously, R17, R19 and R21, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11-C21 hydrocarbon radicals, and more particularly from linear or branched C11-C21 alkyl and alkenyl radicals, saturated or unsaturated. Preferably, x and z, which are identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1. Advantageously, y is equal to 1. Preferably, n, p and r, identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3 and even more particularly are equal to 2 In the formula (XV), the anion X is preferably a halide (chloride, bromide or iodide) or an alkyl sulphate more particularly methyl sulphate. However, methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an organic acid derivative anion such as acetate or lactate or any other anion compatible ammonium anion can be used. The X- anion is even more particularly chloride or methylsulfate. More particularly, the ammonium salts of formula (XV) in which - R15 denotes a methyl or ethyl radical, - x and y are equal to 1: - z is equal to 0 or 1; n, p and r are 2; - R16 is selected from o - the radical R-C-19 methyl, ethyl or hydrocarbon radicals the hydrogen atom; - R18 is chosen from: 0 - the radical R2TC- - the hydrogen atom; - R17, R19 and R21, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 hydrocarbon radicals and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl radicals; .
[0043] Advantageously, the hydrocarbon radicals are linear. Examples of compounds of formula (XV) that may be mentioned include the salts (especially chloride or methyl sulphate) of diacyloxyethyl dimethyl ammonium, diacyloxyethyl hydroxyethyl methyl ammonium, monoacyloxyethyl dihydroxyethyl methyl ammonium, triacyloxyethyl methyl ammonium, monoacyloxyethyl hydroxyethyl dimethyl ammonium, and mixtures thereof. . The acyl radicals preferably have from 14 to 18 carbon atoms and come more particularly from a vegetable oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains more than one acyl radical, the latter may be identical or different. These products are obtained for example by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, C14-C22 alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiiso-propanolamine optionally oxyalkylenated on fatty acids or mixtures of fatty acids of plant or animal origin or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification is followed by a quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably methyl or ethyl), a dialkyl sulphate (preferably methyl or ethyl), methyl methanesulphonate, methyl paratoluenesulfonate, glycol or glycerol chlorohydrin. Such compounds are, for example, sold under the names DEHYQUART by the company HENKEL, S EPANQUAT by the company STEPAN, NOXAMIUM by the company CECA, REWOQUAT WE 18 by the company REWO-WITCO. If it contains ammonium salts, the ink according to the invention preferably contains a mixture of quaternary ammonium mono, di and mester salts with a majority by weight of diester salts. As a mixture of ammonium salts, it is possible to use, for example, the mixture containing, in proportions by weight, 15 to 30% of acyloxyethyl dihydroxyethyl methyl ammonium methyl sulphate, 45 to 60% of diacyloxyethyl hydroxyethyl methyl ammonium methyl sulphate and 15 to 30% of methyl sulphate. of triacyloxyethyl methyl ammonium, the acyl radicals having from 14 to 18 carbon atoms and coming from partially hydrogenated palm oil.
[0044] It is also possible to use the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function described in US-A-4874554 and US-A-4137180. Oil phase of the nanoemulsion The oily phase of the nanoemulsion according to the invention may comprise at least one oil.
[0045] The oils that can be used in the nanoemulsion of the invention are preferably chosen from the group formed by: oils of animal or vegetable origin, formed by esters of fatty acids and polyols, in particular liquid triglycerides, for example, sunflower oil, corn, soybean, avocado, jojoba, squash, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, fish oil, tricaprocaprylate, glycerol, or vegetable or animal oils of formula R9C001110 wherein R9 represents the residue of a higher fatty acid having 7 to 29 carbon atoms and R10 represents a linear or branched hydrocarbon chain containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular alkyl or alkenyl, for example, Purcellin oil or liquid jojoba wax; natural or synthetic essential oils such as, for example, eucalyptus, lavandin, lavender, vetiver, litsea cubeba, lemon, sandalwood, rosemary, chamomile, savory, walnut oils nutmeg, cinnamon, hyssop, caraway, orange, geraniol, cade and bergamot; synthetic oils such as parleam oil, polyolefins and liquid carboxylic acid esters; mineral oils such as hexadecane, isohexadecane and paraffin oil; halogenated oils, in particular fluorocarbons such as fluoroamines, for example perfluorotributylamine, fluorinated hydrocarbons, for example perfluorodecahydronaphthalene, fluoroesters and fluoroethers; volatile or non-volatile silicone oils. The polyolefins that can be used as synthesis oils are in particular poly-α-olefins and more particularly those of polybutene type, hydrogenated or otherwise, and preferably polyisobutene, hydrogenated or otherwise. The liquid carboxylic acid esters which can be used as synthetic oils may be esters of mono-, di-, tri- or tetracarboxylic acids. The total number of carbon of the esters is generally greater than or equal to 10 and preferably less than 100 and more particularly less than 80. It is especially the monoesters of saturated or unsaturated aliphatic acids, linear or branched C1-C26 and d saturated or unsaturated aliphatic alcohols, linear or branched C1-C26, the total number of carbon esters being generally greater than or equal to 10. It is also possible to use esters of di- or tri-carboxylic acids C4-C22 and C1-C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tri-carboxylic acids and di-, IIi-, tetra- or penta-hydroxylated C2-C26 alcohols. Among the esters mentioned above, it is preferred to use p. alkyl esters such as ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate; alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate, butyl myristate, cetyl myristate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate; alkyl stearates such as hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, erisobutyl stearate; alkyl malates such as dioctyl malate; alkyl laurates such as diesyl laurate and 2-hexyldecyl laurate; isononyl isononanate; cetyl octanoate. Advantageously, the emulsion compound according to the invention contains at least one oil of molecular weight, expressed in g / mol, greater than or equal to 400, in particular ranging from 400 to 10,000, better still from 400 to 5,000, or even from 400 to 5000. The oils with a molecular mass greater than or equal to 400 may be chosen from oils of animal or vegetable origin, mineral oils, synthetic oils and silicone oils, and mixtures thereof. Examples of such oils are isoketyl palmitate, isoketyl stearate, avocado oil and jojoba oil. The nanoemulsion according to the invention comprises, for example, a mass quantity of oily phase, oil and other fatty substances, excluding the amphiphilic lipid (s), preferably ranging from 2 to 40% relative to the total mass of the nanoemulsion and more particularly from 4 to 30% and preferably from 4 to 20%. Preferably, the nanoemulsion comprises an oily phase comprising a proportion of oil (s) having a molecular weight greater than or equal to 400 representing at least 40% by weight of the oily phase. The oily phase and the amphiphilic lipids (nonionic and ionic amphiphiles) are preferably present in the emulsion according to the invention in a mass ratio of the amount of oily phase on the amphiphilic lipid mass ranging from 3 to 10 and preferably ranging from 3 to 6. Here, the term "amount of oily phase" means all of the constituents of this oily phase disgusted with (s) lipid (s) amphiphil (s). The nanoemulsion according to the present invention may contain solvents, in particular to improve, if necessary, the transparency of the composition. These solvents are preferably selected from the group consisting of; lower C1-C8 alcohols such as ethanol; glycols such as glycerol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polyethylene glycols containing from 4 to 16 ethylene oxide units and preferably from 8 to 12. sugars such as glucose, fructose, maltose, lactose, sucrose. These solvents can be used in a mixture. When they are present in the nanoemulsion of the invention, they can be used at mass concentrations ranging preferably from 0.01 to 30% relative to the total mass of the nanoemulsion, and better still from 5 to 20%. relative to the total mass of the nano emulsion. The mass quantity of alcohol (s) and / or sugar (s) is preferably from 5 to 20% relative to the total mass of the nanoemulsion and the mass quantity of glycol (s) is preferably from 5 to 5% by weight. at 15% relative to the total mass of the nanoemulsion. According to another aspect, the present invention relates to a device for applying a cosmetic ink by transfer onto human keratin materials, comprising: a substrate having at least one transfer surface, and a layer of cosmetic ink carried by the surface at least one digital printer, the cosmetic ink being intended to be applied by transfer to the keratin materials, the ink of the layer being in emulsion form or at least able to reform an emulsion in the presence of water. Between printing and transfer to the keratin materials, as the water of the ink evaporates, the physicochemical structure of the ink changes and the emulsion form is lost. In the presence of water, the structures of the emulsion can reform. In a variant, the cosmetic ink present on the device is not completely dry when carried by the surface and before application to the keratin materials after a period of 15 minutes after printing, especially after a time of 24 hours and better after a period of 7 days at 25 ° C, kept in contact with the air and a normal humidity of 55% relative humidity. The application of a non-fully dry ink on keratin materials facilitates the transfer of the ink. All or part of the ink may be in fluid form when carried by the transfer surface immediately prior to application to the keratin materials. In a particularly preferred manner, the ink layer is able to transfer to the keratin materials without the addition of a fluid compound, especially a liquid, third. In other words, the ink can be transferred to the keratin materials simply by contacting the area to be made up with said ink without requiring the application of a third liquid intended to improve the transfer of the ink. ink, as in the case of decals.
[0046] The cosmetic ink layer obtained by printing can be deposited on the transfer surface in the form of weft dots and / or weft rims, so as to form a halftone image for example, monochromatic or polychromatic. The pattern formed by the cosmetic ink printed on the transfer surface may be of any type. The pattern can reproduce the appearance of relief and / or color heterogeneities of the skin, for example freckles or a skin texture. The pattern formed by the coloring ink carried by the transfer surface can be colored under observation in white light in the visible range (400 nm - 800 nm). As a variant, the pattern is colorless in white light in the visible range but may appear to be colored after submission to a chemical and / or energetic stimulus, such as UV exposure (365 nm-400 nm), for example when the ink dye contains a photochromic or fluorescent dyestuff. Substrate In an exemplary embodiment, the substrate used in the invention comprises at least one translucent or transparent zone. The translucent or transparent zone allows a user to see through the substrate and thus to more easily visualize the surface to be made up and / or treated before transfer of the cosmetic ink. The presence of a translucent or transparent zone therefore contributes advantageously to facilitate obtaining a precise makeup on keratin materials. The translucent or transparent zone of the substrate may be superimposed in whole or in part with the layer of cosmetic ink, and in particular protrude from it. The entire cosmetic ink layer may be superimposed on the translucent or transparent area of the substrate. Alternatively, only a portion of the cosmetic ink layer is superimposed on the transparent area of the substrate. The substrate may be made of a transparent or translucent material. In this case, the translucent or transparent zone extends over the entire surface of the substrate. The substrate may comprise a sheet material, especially a transparent material.
[0047] The substrate is preferably based on non-absorbent material, for example a plastic film. The substrate is advantageously non-porous, at least on the face intended to receive the printing. The transfer surface can retain the cosmetic ink by capillarity.
[0048] The transfer surface may or may not be flat. In an exemplary embodiment, the substrate includes an indication of the nature of the keratin materials to be made up by the cosmetic ink. This indication may be printed with the same ink or not as the one intended to transfer. The substrate transfer surface may be defined by all or part of: the outer surface of an applicator roll, the surface of an applicator pad, a sheet member, a patch, the surface of a porous foam, especially a sponge, a wipe, a brush, a brush or a flocked tip. The transfer surface is for example defined by all or part of the surface of a breakable sheet mounted on the surface of an applicator roll. The transfer surface can be elastically defomable. Thus, in a first configuration the transfer surface may be flat and, in a second configuration, the transfer surface may be curved, for example to take the form of keratin materials makeup. In an exemplary embodiment, the transfer surface is detachable from a portion of the substrate. The substrate can be reusable. According to another of its aspects, the present invention relates to a cosmetic assembly comprising, within the same packaging, a plurality of devices according to the invention, the devices differing by the chemical nature of the cosmetic ink 25 they carried and / or by the pattern formed by it and / or by the shape of the transfer surface intended to come into engagement with the keratin materials. The present invention also relates to a process for the makeup or care of human keratin materials, comprising the step of applying to the keratin materials the cosmetic ink present on a device according to the invention, the cosmetic ink being especially applied to the nails, the lips, the hair or on a surface of skin, for example of the scalp.
[0049] Advantageously, the method can be used to apply a cosmetic hair-effect ink in the form of an emulsion to the hair or the scalp. Advantageously, the cosmetic ink is not completely dry on the substrate when it is applied to the keratin materials. The cosmetic ink may be in fluid form when it is applied to the keratin materials. All or part of the cosmetic ink carried by the transfer surface may be applied by transfer to the keratin materials. In an exemplary embodiment, at least 25%, especially 50%, in particular 75%, especially substantially all of the cosmetic ink layer initially present on the transfer surface is applied by transfer to the keratin materials, preferably. The transfer is for example about 50% (visually evaluated) without adding a third fluid compound. In one exemplary embodiment, the application of the cosmetic ink is carried out by application with pressure of the transfer surface on the keratin materials. The application of the cosmetic ink to the surface to be treated can be carried out without friction. In an exemplary embodiment according to the invention, the method further comprises a step of finishing the makeup obtained on the keratin materials, for example so as to blur the boundaries between a masked zone and a non-masked zone. The finish of the makeup obtained may include a step of spreading the cosmetic ink to perform a shading, for example. The user can achieve a finish before and / or after the transfer of the cosmetic ink to the keratin materials. In an exemplary embodiment, the method thus comprises a step of finishing the pattern formed by the ink carried by the transfer surface and / or a finishing step of the makeup obtained on the keratin materials, so as to blur the boundaries between a masked area and a non-makeup area, the finishing being effected for example by exerting friction on only part of the transferred pattern, for example its upper part in the case of a pattern applied to the eyelid.
[0050] Advantageously, the area of the keratin materials intended to receive the ink has not been pretreated at the time of application of the ink. In an exemplary embodiment, the keratin materials intended to be coated with the cosmetic ink have not been covered, before application of the cosmetic ink, by a third fluid compound intended to improve the transfer of the cosmetic ink and / or the process is devoid of a step of adding to the cosmetic ink carried by the transfer surface of a third fluid compound for improving the transfer. As a variant, the area of the keratin materials to be coated with the cosmetic ink has been covered, before application of the ink, with a third fluid compound, in particular water or a solvent (for example a water / ethanol mixture). ethanol, alkane such as isododecane, this list being nonlimiting), making it possible to improve the transfer of the ink and / or a third fluid compound intended to improve the transfer has been added to the ink carried by the surface of transfer before its application on keratin materials.
[0051] In one exemplary embodiment, the addition of the third-party fluid compound for improving the transfer of the cosmetic ink makes it possible to thin all or part of the cosmetic ink and not, for example, to solubilize the substrate of the makeup device and or an adhesive layer. The third compound can be added in cosmetic ink by any known means, especially by spraying. The third compound is preferably added to the compound (s) before the application of the cosmetic ink to the keratin materials, while the cosmetic ink is still carried by the surface. According to yet another aspect, the present invention relates to a cosmetic assembly for implementing a method for manufacturing a device for applying a cosmetic product according to the invention, comprising within the same packaging. a) a printer cartridge comprising a cosmetic ink in the form of an oil-in-water (HJE) or water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion, liquid at 20 ° C, and b) a surface of transfer intended to be printed by the cosmetic ink.
[0052] DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES The invention will be better understood on reading the following description of examples of non-limiting implementation thereof, and on examining the appended drawing, in which: FIG. example of makeup device manufactured by a method according to the invention, Figure 2 is a section 11-11 of the makeup device of Figure 1, Figures 3 to 5 show different steps of an example of makeup process according to the invention, FIGS. 6 and 7 represent examples of cosmetic assemblies according to the invention, FIG. 8 is a block diagram illustrating various steps of a method of manufacturing a makeup device according to the invention, and Figures 9 and 10 illustrate variants of makeup process according to the invention. FIGS. 1 and 2 show a make-up device 1 according to the invention, comprising a substrate 2 whose front surface defines a transfer surface 3. The device 1 can, as illustrated, have only one face defining the surface 3, carrying a layer of cosmetic ink 4 according to the invention. In a non-illustrated variant, two transfer surfaces 3 are defined by the two opposite faces of the substrate 2. In this case, these surfaces may carry different cosmetic ink layers, these layers being able to differ in their nature and / or by the pattern formed by the ink. In the device 1 illustrated in FIGS. 1 and 2, the cosmetic ink layer 4 carried by the transfer surface 3 has been deposited by printing with the aid of a digital printer, which deposits the ink dots in correspondence with the pixels of an image to be reproduced. The printing was carried out with at least one liquid cosmetic ink at a temperature of 20 ° C. and in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion. having a coloring matter. The cosmetic ink layer 4 can comprise several different cosmetic inks, as detailed above.
[0053] The layer 4 may form any type of pattern, for example in the form of a heart as illustrated. The substrate 2 may have at least one non-opaque zone 5, transparent or translucent, which may be superimposed in whole or in part with the layer 4. The transparent zone 5 allows the user to see through the substrate 2 and thus to visualize the surface to be made up by the device 1 when the latter is superimposed on the latter. The entirety of the layer 4 may, as illustrated, be superimposed on the transparent zone 5. In a variation that is not illustrated, only a portion of the layer 4 is superimposed on the transparent zone 5. The substrate 2 can be made in one transparent material. The transparent zone 5 then extends over the entire surface of the substrate 2. The substrate 2 may be made of a transparent material. The transparent zone 5 then extends over the entire surface of the substrate 2. In the example illustrated, the substrate 2 comprises a transparent sheet material carrying the transfer surface 3. The substrate 2 may carry an indication 7, for example a printing, making it possible to provide advice on a recommended positioning for makeup, for example "straight cheek" as illustrated, or the nature of the keratin materials to be made up by the cosmetic ink of layer 4, or the like, and can also provide information on the color reference and / or pattern. The substrate 2 is preferably made of a flexible material. In a variant, the substrate 2 is made of a rigid or semi-rigid material. All or part of the area of the transfer surface 3 superimposed on the layer of cosmetic ink 4 is preferably smooth and has a roughness less than or equal to 1 mm, in particular between 1 and 100 μm, preferably less than or equal to 1 mm. equal to 50 pm. The roughness is measured using a rugosimeter whose tip has a radius of curvature of 10 mm and whose force, applied to the material to be characterized, is 6 mN. FIGS. 3 to 5 diagrammatically show different stages of an example of a make-up process according to the invention. As illustrated, the device 1 is first approached to the skin area P to be made up, which is preferably dry, so as to bring the ink layer 4 into contact with the skin area P to be made up, then user applies a pressure to perform the transfer of the cosmetic ink on the skin area to be makeup P. When contact with the keratin materials, the substrate 2 is preferably not moved laterally to not affect the appearance of the transferred motif.
[0054] The pattern transferred to the keratin materials corresponds to the pattern formed by the layer 4 when it is present on the substrate 2 (i.e. when it is not yet transferred to the keratinous makeup materials). In a non-illustrated example, the method further comprises a makeup finishing step obtained on the keratin materials. Finishing is done for example by rubbing the surface to be makeup with the device 1 to obtain special effects. FIG. 6 shows an exemplary embodiment of a cosmetic assembly 10 according to the invention. This comprises, within the same package, a plurality of devices 1 according to the invention, each differing in the pattern formed by the layer 4 and / or its color. The package may be sealed to prevent drying of the inks. The packaging can be carried out with means making it possible to prevent contact of the inks with a surface other than the transfer surface, so as to reduce the risk of premature transfer. For example, the packaging comprises a thermoformed shell whose wall extends away from the areas of the substrate covered with inks. An example of a method of manufacturing a device according to the invention will now be described, with reference to FIG. 8. In a first step 100, different patterns are proposed to the user, for example by display on a screen of a device. The user's choice of pattern step 101 may include such action as pressing a touch screen to select the pattern to be printed. The apparatus may further provide the user with a simulation of the makeup result. Thus, the apparatus may display a simulation of the appearance of the keratin materials made up with the chosen or realized pattern. To do this, the device can acquire at least one image of keratin materials makeup. In a variant, the user makes a computer file with the pattern that he wishes to print. In this case, the user can use a drawing software for making such a pattern, and edit it for example as a file in image format Once the pattern chosen or made, the device sends the printer the data necessary to print the pattern at step 102.
[0055] The apparatus can be physically connected and / or through a network to the printer performing the printing. Once the data is received, the pattern is printed in step 103. The printer driver may include a menu for selecting a cosmetic ink cartridge from other cartridges in place in the printer and / or printer. nature of the substrate that is printed. In a variant, the printer automatically recognizes that the cartridge in place contains a cosmetic ink according to the invention and adjusts the operating parameters accordingly. The cartridge may thus include an identifier, for example an electronic chip, for providing the printer with information relating to the nature of the cosmetic ink it contains, in particular that it is of a cosmetic nature. In an exemplary embodiment, the printer is configured to prohibit printing if the presence of a cartridge comprising a composition not intended to be placed in contact with human keratin materials, in particular the skin, the nails or the lips, is detected.
[0056] As a variant, the printer can produce an impression even if the presence of a cartridge comprising a composition that is not intended to be put in contact with human keratin materials, in particular the skin, in particular the scalp, the hair, the nails or the lips, is detected, this non-cosmetic ink cartridge can be used to print on the substrate an indication of the cosmetic ink carried by the surface and / or the nature of the keratin materials makeup. The printing of the substrate can be done in several passes, to perform successive ink deposits at the same location, to increase the amount of ink deposited on the substrate. The substrate may for example carry out between 1 and 20 passages in the printer and the quantity of dry matter of cosmetic ink deposited is, for example, from 0.01 mg / cm 2 to 100 mg / cm 2, or even 0.1 mg / cm 2 at 10 mg / cm 2, more preferably 0.2 mg / cm 2 to 10 mg / cm 2, especially 0.2 mg / cm 2 to 5 mg / cm 2.
[0057] The pattern can be monochrome or, better, polychrome. In this case, one can print each pass through the printer with several cosmetic inks that are locally juxtaposed at the microscopic scale, depending on the color to be reproduced. The resolution of the print can be between 16 dpi and 1600 dpi.
[0058] The printer can be arranged to detect whether the ink previously deposited on the substrate is sufficiently dry before printing a new ink layer, for example by measuring the electrical conduction between two points. The printer and / or printer driver may be constructed to inform the user of the need to wait for a predefined time before making a new print on the already printed substrate. The printer and / or driver can automatically suspend the printing of a previously printed substrate until sufficient time has elapsed to induce sufficient drying. The printer is preferably arranged not to deliver the printed substrate until all the layers of ink to be printed have been. FIG. 7 shows an exemplary embodiment of a cosmetic assembly 20 according to the invention. The cosmetic assembly 20 comprises, within one and the same packaging: a) a printer cartridge 21 containing a cosmetic ink according to the invention, and b) a surface 3 intended to be printed by the cosmetic ink, by example defined by a sheet substrate. This cosmetic assembly can be provided to the user, if necessary, with the printer intended to use the cartridge. In the illustrated example, the ink contained in the cartridge 21 comprises at least two dyes at least one of which is hydrophilic and at least one other is hydrophobic. FIG. 9 shows another variant of the method according to the invention, in which a solvent such as. the water 51 is sprayed onto an ink layer 4 printed on a surface 3 of an exemplary device 1 according to the invention. The layer 4 has been printed in the form of an emulsion or a nanoemulsion, but for example is too dry to transfer well to the keratin materials, in particular having lost its emulsion or nanoemulsion form. The solvent thus sprayed allows it to be moistened and returned to its emulsion or nanoemulsion form. The cosmetic ink of layer 4, once found in its emulsion or nanoemulsion form, is then brought into contact with the keratin materials. The solvent is for example sprayed using a pressurized container of aerosol type, actuated by the user.
[0059] FIG. 10 shows an alternative embodiment of the device according to the invention in which the surface 3 is constituted by the outer surface of an applicator roll 40, for example the surface of a sheet material carried by the applicator roll. 40, on which the ink 4 is present. Such a surface may advantageously make it possible to carry out makeup by transfer to the hair or extensive areas of skin such as the back, the belly or the legs. Examples Example 1: Nano emulsion for an ink jet printer Formula A Polyethylene glycol mono-isostearate (80E) 2% Avocado oil 5.25% Jojoba oil 5.25% Cyclopenta methylsiloxane 3.5% poly dimethyl Methyl arninoethyl aminopropyl siloxane in nanoemulsion (SME 253 from Momentive Performance Materials) 6% Glycerol 5% Ethanol 14% Red 33 (CI 17200) 1% Water qs 100% A nanoemulsion of formula A according to the invention is produced by the method of high pressure high temperature mixer. It is used in a Canon Pixma IP100 inkjet printer to print a pattern on a clear plastic sheet for a printer. The sheet is allowed to dry for eight hours before being applied to the skin to transfer the pattern. The transfer is performed without the presence of third party compound.
[0060] Example 1a: Nano emulsion for an inkjet printer Formula B polyethylene glycol monoisostearate (80E) 2% behenyltrimethylammonium chloride 2% avocado oil 5.25% Jojoba oil 5.25% cyclopenta dimethylsiloxane 3,5% poly dimethyl / methyl amino-aminopropyl siloxane in nanoemulsion (SME 253 from Momentive Performance Materials) 6% Glycerol 5% Ethanol 14% Curcumin 3% Water qs 100% The same procedure as for Example 1 is used. EXAMPLE 2 Emulsion for Ink Jet Printer Formula C (Polyoxyethylene 2 Polyoxypropylene 3 Decyl Ether (PPG 2 Deceth 3) (Ema1ex Dape 203 Nihon Emulsion) 5% Isopropyl Myristate 5% Red 33 (CI 17200) 3% Water qs 100% An emulsion of formula C according to the invention is produced by simple mixing.
[0061] It is used in a Canon Pixma IP100 inkjet printer to print a pattern on a clear plastic sheet for a printer. The leaf is allowed to dry for eight hours before being applied to the skin to transfer the pattern by simple contact. The transfer is performed without the presence of third party compound.
[0062] Example 2a: Ink jet printer emulsion Formula D decyl alcohol oxyethylene (5e) 18% Isopropyl myristate 6% Curcumin 3% Water qs 100% The expression "having one" should be understood as being synonym 5 of "having at least one". The expression "understood between ... and ..." or "from ... to ..." must be understood as including the boundaries.

权利要求:
Claims (17)
[0001]
REVENDICATIONS1. A method of manufacturing a device (1) for applying a cosmetic product by transfer onto human keratin materials, comprising the step of printing, using at least one digital printer, onto a surface ( 3) a cosmetic ink (4), the ink being in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion (O / W) or water-dam-oil (W / O) comprising an emulsifier, the ink being liquid at 20 ° C. .
[0002]
2. A process according to claim 1, the ink (4) having a viscosity ranging from 1mPa.s to 500 mPa.s, and preferably from 1mPa.s to 300 rpm, when measured at 25 ° C according to a method Conventional using a Rhéomat 180, equipped with a mobile rotating at 200 rpm.
[0003]
3. Method according to claim 1 or 2, the ink being in the form of nanoemulsion comprising oil globules of average size less than 100 nm, especially between 20 and 80 nm, in particular between 40 and 60 min.
[0004]
4. Method according to claim 3, the ink (4) being in the form of a nemulsion comprising an amphiphilic lipid, comprising at least one nonionic amphiphilic lipid and optionally an ionic amphiphilic lipid, such as the mass ratio oily phase / amphiphilic lipid from 3 to 10.
[0005]
5. Method according to the preceding claim, the nonionic amphiphilic lipid being chosen from: a) silicone surfactants, b) amphiphilic lipids which are liquid at a temperature of less than or equal to 45 ° C. chosen from esters of at least one polyol and from at least one fatty acid having at least one C8-C22 alkyl chain, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, c) fatty acid esters of sugar and fatty alcohol and sugar ethers, d) solid surfactants at a temperature equal to 45 ° C., chosen from fatty esters of glycerol, fatty esters of sorbitan and oxyethylenated fatty esters of sorbitan, ethoxylated fatty ethers and ethoxylated fatty esters, and (e) block copolymers of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide, and mixtures thereof.
[0006]
6. Method according to one of claims 4 and 5, the nonionic amphiphilic lipid being present in the nanoemulsion in a mass content ranging from 0.2% to 12%, relative to the total mass of the ink, and preferably ranging from 0.2% to 8%, and preferably ranging from 0.2% to 6%.
[0007]
7. Process according to any one of claims 4 to 6, the emulsion nanowatine comprising at least one ionic amphiphilic lipid, in particular chosen from: the alkaline salts of dicetyl- and dimyristylphosphate, the alkaline salts of cholesterol sulfate, the alkaline salts of phosphate cholesterol; lipoamino acids and their salts, sodium salts of phosphatidic acid, phospholipids, alkylsulphonic derivatives, quaternary ammonium salts, fatty amines and their salts.
[0008]
8. Process according to any one of claims 4 to 7, the total mass content of nonionic and ionic amphiphilic lipids in the nanoemulsion ranging from 0.25% to 15%, and preferably ranging from 1% to 10%, relative to the total mass of the nano emulsion.
[0009]
9. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, the mass ratio of the oily phase relative to the total mass of the ink ranging from 2% to 40%.
[0010]
10. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, the oily phase comprising at least one oil with a molecular mass greater than or equal to 400 g / mol, especially ranging from 400 to 10,000 g / mol, especially a proportion of oil ( s) having a molecular mass greater than or equal to 400 g / mol representing at least 40% by weight of the oily phase.
[0011]
11. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, the layer of cosmetic ink (4) being printed in a predefined pattern, the method comprising in particular a step of selection and / or embodiment of the pattern by a user and transmission, by a device connected to the printer (s) performing the printing, information associated with this pattern
[0012]
A method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the surface on which the printing is being defined by all or part of: the outer surface of an applicator roll, the surface of an applicator pad, an element sheet, a patch, the surface of a porous foam, including a sponge, a wipe, a brush, a brush or a flocked tip.
[0013]
13. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, the surface being an outer surface of a substrate (2), the substrate (2) comprising an indication (7) on the nature of the keratin materials intended to receive the cosmetic ink. and / or the substrate (2) comprising at least one translucent or transparent zone (5).
[0014]
14. Cosmetic assembly (20) for carrying out the method according to any one of claims 1 to 13, comprising within the same packaging: -a) a printer cartridge (21) comprising a cosmetic ink under an oil-in-water emulsion (HIE) or water-in-oil (W / O) form comprising an emulsifier, the ink being liquid at 20 ° C, and b) a surface (3) to be printed by the cosmetic ink.
[0015]
15. A device (1) for applying a cosmetic ink by transfer onto human keratin materials (P), comprising: a substrate (2) having at least one transfer surface (3), and an ink layer cosmetic (4) carried by the transfer surface (3) and obtained by a manufacturing method according to any one of claims 1 to 13, by printing with at least one digital printer, the cosmetic ink (4) being intended to be applied by transfer to the keratin materials (P), the ink of the layer (4) being in emulsion form, or being at least able to reform an emulsion in the presence of water. 25
[0016]
16. Device according to the preceding claim, the cosmetic ink (4) being able or not to transfer to the keratin materials (P) without adding a fluid compound, especially a liquid, third.
[0017]
17. Cosmetic assembly (10) comprising, within the same package, a plurality of different devices (1), each being manufactured by a method according to any one of claims 1 to 13, the devices differing in that chemical nature of the cosmetic ink (4) that they wear and / or by the motifforméé thereof on the surface (3) and / or by the shape of the surface (3) intended to come into engagement with keratin materials. 1.8. Process for the makeup or care of human keratinous materials (P), comprising the step of applying to the keratin materials (P) the cosmetic ink (4) present on a device (1) according to one of the claims 15 and 16, the cosmetic ink (4) being especially applied to the nails, lips, hair or on a skin surface, for example scalp. 19. The method as claimed in the preceding claim, wherein the keratin materials intended to be coated by the cosmetic ink have not been covered, before application of the cosmetic ink, by a third fluid compound, in particular water, intended to improve the transfer of the cosmetic ink and / or the process being devoid of a step of adding to the cosmetic ink carried by the surface of a third fluid compound for improving the transfer.

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同族专利:

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公开号 | 公开日

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CN105848725B|2021-11-12|

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KR20160102566A|2016-08-30|

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JP2017503795A|2017-02-02|

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EP3086850A1|2016-11-02|

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JP6983509B2|2021-12-17|

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CN105848725A|2016-08-10|

---

US20200085704A1|2020-03-19|

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US10532011B2|2020-01-14|

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JP2019178168A|2019-10-17|

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WO2015097614A1|2015-07-02|

---

FR3015870B1|2016-02-05|

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US20160317403A1|2016-11-03|

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法律状态:
2015-11-10| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 3 |

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2016-11-11| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 4 |

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2017-11-13| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 5 |

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2019-11-15| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 7 |

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2020-11-12| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 8 |

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2021-11-15| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 9 |

优先权:

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申请号 | 申请日 | 专利标题

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FR1363627A|FR3015870B1|2013-12-27|2013-12-27|DEVICE FOR MAKE-UP BY TRANSFERRING KERATINIC MATERIALS.|FR1363627A| FR3015870B1|2013-12-27|2013-12-27|DEVICE FOR MAKE-UP BY TRANSFERRING KERATINIC MATERIALS.|

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PCT/IB2014/067132| WO2015097614A1|2013-12-27|2014-12-19|Transfer device for making up keratin materials|

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CN201480071341.6A| CN105848725B|2013-12-27|2014-12-19|Transfer device for making up keratin materials|

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KR1020167020687A| KR102376795B1|2013-12-27|2014-12-19|Transfer device for making up keratin materials|

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EP14833251.3A| EP3086850A1|2013-12-27|2014-12-19|Transfer device for making up keratin materials|

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JP2016542897A| JP6983509B2|2013-12-27|2014-12-19|Transfer device for making up keratin material|

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US15/108,292| US10532011B2|2013-12-27|2014-12-19|Transfer device for making up keratin materials|

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JP2019127617A| JP2019178168A|2013-12-27|2019-07-09|Transfer device for making up keratin materials|

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US16/694,035| US20200085704A1|2013-12-27|2019-11-25|Transfer device for making up keratin materials|