COMPOSITION FOR INVERSE EMULSION LIP COMPRISING A HUMICANT AGENT, PROCESSING METHOD EMPLOYING THE SA

专利摘要:
The subject of the present invention is a cosmetic composition of the water-in-oil emulsion type comprising: from 8 to 70% by weight of an aqueous phase comprising at least one moisturizing / humectant agent, from 30 to 92% by weight of a lipophilic phase comprising: - a first polar nonvolatile hydrocarbon oil - an apolar, hydrocarbon or silicone oil, volatile or not; a particular solid compound whose melting temperature is at least 30 ° C., the composition comprising not more than 20% by weight of the lipophilic phase of apolar hydrocarbon compound of synthetic origin, at least one emulsifying surfactant system . It also relates to a lip treatment method in which is applied to the lips the composition according to any one of the preceding claims.
公开号:FR3015277A1
申请号:FR1363424
申请日:2013-12-23
公开日:2015-06-26
发明作者:Roshanak Debeaud；Regine Imbert
申请人:LOreal SA；
IPC主号:

专利说明:

[0001] The subject of the present invention is a lip treatment composition which is in the form of an inverse emulsion comprising at least one agent which comprises at least one agent. humectant or moisturizer and a lipophilic phase comprising a nourishing oil. It also relates to a lip treatment process using said composition. The present invention is more particularly concerned with moisturizing compositions intended to be applied to the lips, such as lip balms or lip serums, which may be in solid or fluid forms. Most of these compositions are anhydrous and generally comprise glycerine as a moisturizing / humectant agent, as well as a relatively high content of apolar hydrocarbon compounds, such as, for example, polybutenes, polyisobutenes, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated, paraffins, Vaseline, and depending on the galenic, varying levels of structuring agent chosen from waxes, especially apolar, or pasty compounds. There are also, to a lesser extent, compositions comprising water, in addition to the aforementioned ingredients, which are in the form of oil-in-water direct emulsions. These compositions, when they are applied, hydrate the lips by forming on their surface an occlusive barrier which contributes to maintaining water in the vicinity of the lips. Their appearance is improved and their softness. However, it was found that the hydration effect was not persistent and that it decreased more or less rapidly after stopping the application of the compositions. In addition, even if feeling the presence of the deposit of these compositions on the lips may be associated by the users to a barrier action against external aggression, it remains nonetheless that in some cases, this deposit may be perceived as too heavy, too fat, even sticky. We are therefore always looking for compositions for the treatment of lips whose effect is more permanent in time, even after stopping the application, and whose deposit is light on the lips, little or not greasy , and little sticky. The present invention therefore aims to solve the problems described above and to provide a composition that improves the state of the lips during application but still remains noticeable even after a few days of stopping the application of the composition.
[0002] These objects are achieved by the present invention which relates to a cosmetic composition of the water-in-oil emulsion type comprising: from 8% to 70% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, of an aqueous phase comprising one or more agents moisturizing or humectant, - from 30 to 92% by weight of a lipophilic phase comprising: - at least a first polar nonvolatile hydrocarbon oil - at least one apolar, hydrocarbon or silicone oil, volatile or not; at least one solid compound, the melting temperature of which is at least 30 ° C., chosen from hydrocarbon compounds, polar or apolar, the composition comprising not more than 20% by weight of the lipophilic phase of apolar hydrocarbon compound; of synthetic origin, - at least one emulsifying surfactant system for obtaining water-in-oil emulsion. It also relates to a treatment process in which said composition is applied to the lips. Surprisingly, it has been found that the effect of improving the flexibility of the lips, the sensation of hydration, remained perceptible several days after stopping the application of the composition. In addition, the composition according to the invention is easy to apply and leaves a light deposit, non-greasy, which does not stick. The expression "between" or "from" must be understood as inclusive. The composition according to the invention is cosmetic and advantageously comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, that is to say a medium that is particularly suitable for applying a composition of the invention to the lips. The physiologically acceptable medium is generally adapted to the nature of the medium to which the composition is to be applied, as well as to the appearance under which the composition is to be packaged.
[0003] Preferably, the composition is in liquid form or in the form of a cream or a butter or a paste. The viscosity at 20 ° C. is more particularly greater than 1 Pa.s. Preferably, it has a viscosity of between 1 and 25 Pa.s. The composition according to the invention has at 20 ° C a viscosity of between 1 and 25 Pa.s, preferably between 1.5 and 18 Pa.s. Preferably the viscosity at 20 ° C of a composition according to the invention is between 2 to 16 Pa.s. Note that paste or butter means a composition that is not solid, and it is possible to measure the viscosity.
[0004] Protocol for the measurement of the viscosity: The measurement of the viscosity is carried out at 20 ° C., using a RHEOMAT RM 180 viscometer equipped with a mobile No. 3 or 4, the measurement being carried out after 10 minutes of rotation of the mobile (time at which a stabilization of the viscosity and the speed of rotation of the mobile) is observed at a shear of 200 s-1. A composition according to the invention is in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion.
[0005] AQUEOUS PHASE The composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous phase whose content is between 15 and 70% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, preferably between 15 and 55% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition .
[0006] Humectant / Hydrating Agent As indicated above, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one moisturizing agent (also called humectant). As humectants or moisturizers, there may be mentioned in particular: polyhydric alcohols, especially C2-C8 alcohols, and preferably C3-C6 alcohols, comprising from 2 to 6 hydroxyl radicals, such as glycerin, propylene glycol and tripropylene glycol; 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diglycerol, and mixtures thereof, sugars such as sorbitol, xylitol, hyaluronic acid and its salts, spheres of hyaluronic acid such as those sold by the company Engelhard Lyon - urea and its derivatives including Hydrovance (2-hydroxyethyl urea) marketed by National Starch, - AHA, BHA, and for example lactic acid and its salts, especially alkali metal, such as sodium lactate, sodium pidolate, serine, arginine, ectoin and its derivatives, chitosan and its derivatives, collagen; spheres of collagen and chondroitin sulfate of marine origin (Ateocollagen) marketed by Engelhard Lyon under the name marine filling spheres, - plankton, - homopolymers of acrylic acid such as Lipidure-HM® from NOF corporation, beta-glucan and in particular sodium carboxymethyl beta-glucan from Mibelle-AGBiochemistry, a C-glycoside derivative such as those described in patent application WO 02/051828 and in particular C-13-D-xylopyranoside-2- hydroxy-propane in the form of a 30% by weight solution of active material in a water / propylene glycol mixture (60/40% by weight), such as the product manufactured by CHJMEX under the trade name "MEXORYL SB.Be", Preferably, the humectants / moisturizing agents are chosen from polyhydric alcohols, preferably C 2 -C 8 alcohols comprising from 2 to 6 hydroxyl radicals, sugars, urea and its derivatives, hyaluronic acid and its salts, AHA, BHA, in p lactic acid and its sodium salts, sodium pidolate, serine, arginine, ectoin and its derivatives, chitosan and its derivatives, collagen, plankton, homopolymers of acrylic acid such as LIPIDURE-HIVI® of NOF corporation, beta-glucan, even more preferably; the humectant / moisturizing agent (s) are chosen from polyhydric alcohols, preferably C 2 -C 5 alcohols containing from 2 to 6 hydroxyl radicals, and especially glycerine; hyaluronic acid and its salts, and mixtures thereof. The composition according to the invention more particularly comprises at most 10% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, moisturizing agent (s) or humectant (s), and preferably from 3 to 10% by weight. relative to the weight of the composition. Water-soluble solvent The composition according to the invention may comprise, in addition to water, at least one water-soluble solvent. By "water-soluble solvent" is meant in the present invention a liquid compound at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25 ° C and atmospheric pressure). The water-soluble solvents which can be used in the compositions according to the invention can moreover be volatile. Among the water-soluble solvents that can be used in the compositions in accordance with the invention, mention may be made in particular of lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol and isopropanol, C3 and C4 ketones and C2-C4 aldehydes. If the composition comprises, the content of water-soluble solvent (s) represents 0 to 5% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition. Preferably, the aqueous phase of the composition does not comprise a water-soluble solvent.
[0007] LIPOPHILIC PHASE The composition therefore comprises from 30 to 92% by weight of a lipophilic phase, and preferably from 30 to 85% by weight relative to the weight of the composition. According to an even more particular embodiment, the lipophilic phase content varies from 40 to 85% by weight, and more preferably from 40 to 75% by weight relative to the weight of the composition. This lipophilic phase comprises at least a first polar nonvolatile hydrocarbon oil; at least one apolar oil, hydrocarbon or silicone, volatile or not; at least one solid compound whose melting temperature is at least 30 ° C, selected from hydrocarbon compounds, polar or apolar; at least one emulsifying surfactant system for obtaining a water-in-oil emulsion. Moreover, the composition does not comprise more than 20% by weight of the lipophilic phase of apolar hydrocarbon compound of synthetic origin.
[0008] The term "hydrocarbon-based apolar compound of synthetic origin" is intended more particularly to denote hydrocarbon compounds comprising only hydrogen and carbon atoms, derived from the petrochemical industry; these compounds are liquid or solid at room temperature (25 ° C).
[0009] First polar hydrocarbon oil By "oil" is meant a non-aqueous compound, immiscible with water, liquid at room temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (1.013 × 105 Pa). By "hydrocarbon oil" is meant an oil formed essentially, or even constituted, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly of oxygen, nitrogen, and not containing a silicon atom or fluorine. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups. Preferably, the hydrocarbon oil is free, in addition to silicon, of fluorine; heteroatoms such as N, Si and P. The hydrocarbon oil is therefore distinct from a silicone oil and a fluorinated oil. In this case, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil comprises at least one oxygen atom. In particular, this non-volatile hydrocarbon oil comprises at least one ester function (it is then an "ester oil").
[0010] The ester oils that can be used in the compositions according to the invention can in particular be hydroxylated. The composition may comprise one or more non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, in particular chosen from: monoesters, diesters, triesters, optionally hydroxylated, of a C2-C8 mono or polycarboxylic acid and of a C2-C8 alcohol . In particular: monoesters of a C2-C8 carboxylic acid and of a C2-C8 alcohol, optionally hydroxylated, diesters of a C2-C8 dicarboxylic acid and of a C2-C8 alcohol, optionally hydroxylated; such as diisopropyl adipate, 2-diethylhexyl adipate, dibutyl adipate, or diisostearyl adipate, 2-diethylhexyl succinate, triesters of a C2-C8 triacidecarboxylic acid and a C2 alcohol. -C8, optionally hydroxylated, such as citric acid esters, such as trioctyl citrate, triethyl citrate, acetyl tributyl citrate, tributyl citrate, acetyl tributyl citrate, esters of a C2-C8 polyol and one or more C 2 -C 8 carboxylic acids, such as glycol and monoacid diesters, such as neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, or glycol and monoacid triesters such as triacetin. ester oils, in particular having at least 18 carbon atoms and even more particularly between 18 and 70 carbon atoms. By way of examples, mention may be made of mono-, di- or tri-esters.
[0011] The ester oils may be hydroxylated or not. The non-volatile ester oil may be chosen for example from: monoesters comprising at least 18 carbon atoms and even more particularly having from 18 to 40 carbon atoms in total, in particular monoesters, of formula R 1 COROR 2 in which R 1 represents the remainder of a linear or branched or aromatic fatty acid having from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, saturated or unsaturated, and R2 represents a particularly branched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that the sum of the carbon atoms radicals R1 and R2 are greater than or equal to 18, such as, for example, purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate, 2- ethyl palmitate, hexyl, octyledodecyl neopentanoate, 2-octyl dodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, such as octyl benzoate -2 dodecyl, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyl-decyl laurate , 2-octyl decyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate. Preferably, they are esters of formula R 1 COROR 2 in which R 1 represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R 2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, especially branched, containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms. , R1 and R2 being such that the sum of the carbon atoms of the radicals R1 and R2 is greater than or equal to 18. Even more particularly, the ester comprises between 18 and 40 carbon atoms in total.
[0012] As preferred monoesters, mention may be made of isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate and / or octy1-2-docecyl neopentanoate; fatty acid monoesters, in particular having at least 18 carbon atoms and even more particularly from 18 to 22 carbon atoms, and in particular lanolinic acid, oleic acid, lauric acid, stearic acid, , and diols, such as propylene glycol monoisostearate. diesters, especially having at least 18 carbon atoms and even more particularly comprising between 18 and 60 carbon atoms in total, preferably between 18 and 50 carbon atoms in total. Diesters of dicarboxylic acid and of monoalcohols, such as diisostearyl malate, or diesters of glycol and of monocarboxylic acids, such as neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol dioctanoate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate, or polyglyceryl-2-diisostearate (especially such as the compound sold under the commercial reference DERMOL DGDIS by the company Akzo); hydroxyl monoesters and diesters, preferably having a total carbon number of at least 18 carbon atoms and even more particularly ranging from 18 to 70, such as polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate, isostearyl lactate, octylhydroxystearate; octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, glycerin stearate; the triesters, in particular having at least 35 carbon atoms and even more particularly comprising between 35 and 70 carbon atoms in total, in particular such as tri tries of carboxylic triacid, such as triisostearyl citrate, or tridecyl trimellitate, or glycol and monocarboxylic acid triesters such as polyglycerol-2 triisostearate; tetraesters, in particular having at least 35 carbon atoms and even more particularly having a total number of carbon ranging from 35 to 70, such as the tetraesters of penthaerythritol or of polyglycerol and of a monocarboxylic acid, for example such as tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl, tetraisostearate pentaerythrityl, pentaerythrityl tetraisonanoate, glyceryl tri-2-tetradecanoate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate or pentaerythrityl tetra decyl-2 tetradecanoate; the polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and of diol, such as those described in the patent application FR 0 853 634, such as in particular dilinoleic acid and 1,4-diol. butanediol. Mention may in particular be made of the polymer marketed by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H (INCI name: dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymer), or the copolymers of polyols and diacid dimers, and their esters, such as Hailucent ISDA; esters and polyesters of diol dimer and mono- or dicarboxylic acid, such as diol dimer and fatty acid esters and diol dimer and dicarboxylic acid dimer esters, in particular obtainable from a dicarboxylic acid dimer derived in particular from the dimerization of an unsaturated fatty acid, especially of C 8 to C 34, in particular C 12 to C 22, in particular C 16 to C 20, and more particularly to C 18, such as the esters of dilinoleic diacids and of dimers dilinoleic diols, for example such as those marketed by the company NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL under the trade name LUSPLAN DD-DA5® and DD-DA7 °; the polyesters resulting from the esterification of at least one triglyceride of carboxylic acid (s) hydroxylated with an aliphatic monocarboxylic acid and with an optionally unsaturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acid, such as castor oil; succinic acid and isostearic acid sold under the reference Zénigloss by Zenitech; triglycerides of fatty acids, in particular saturated fatty acids, such as heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides and mixtures thereof, glyceryl triheptanoate, glycerin trioctanoate, acid triglycerides, C18-36; vegetable hydrocarbon oils such as jojoba oil, unsaturated triglycerides such as castor oil, olive oil, ximenia oil, pracaxi oil, coriander oil, macadamia oil, passionflower oil, argan oil, sesame oil, grapeseed oil, avocado oil, apricot kernel oil (Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil), the liquid fraction of shea butter, the liquid fraction of cocoa butter, * their mixtures. More particularly, the first polar nonvolatile oil used in the composition according to the invention is chosen from monoesters comprising at least 18 carbon atoms, triglycerides of fatty acids having from 7 to 40 carbon atoms, which are liquid at ambient temperature, vegetable hydrocarbon oils, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the first polar non-volatile oil is chosen from: monoesters, of formula RiCOOR 2 in which R 1 represents the residue of a linear or branched or aromatic fatty acid comprising from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, saturated or not, and R 2 represents a particularly branched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that the sum of the carbon atoms of the radicals R 1 and R 2 is greater than or equal to 18, the triglycerides of fatty acids, in particular saturated, such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides and mixtures thereof, glyceryl triheptanoate, glycerol trioctanoate, C 1816 acid triglycerides; vegetable hydrocarbon oils such as jojoba oil, unsaturated triglycerides such as castor oil, olive oil, ximenia oil, pracaxi oil, coriander oil, macadamia oil, passionflower oil, argan oil, sesame oil, grapeseed oil, avocado oil, apricot kernel oil (Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil), the liquid fraction of shea butter, the liquid fraction of cocoa butter, * their mixtures.
[0013] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the content of the first oil (s) varies from 1 to 20% by weight relative to the weight of the composition. Apolar oils The lipophilic phase of the composition according to the invention comprises at least one apolar oil, hydrocarbon or silicone, volatile or not. Non-volatile hydrocarbon apolar oils These oils may be of vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin. By "apolar oil" within the meaning of the present invention is meant an oil whose solubility parameter at 25 ° C, Sa, is equal to 0 (J / cm3) 1/4. The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters in the HANSEN three-dimensional solubility space are described in the article by C. M. Hansen: "The three dimensional solubility parameters" J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967). According to this Hansen space: - 8D characterizes the LONDON dispersion forces resulting from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular shocks; - δp characterizes the DEBYE interaction forces between permanent dipoles as well as the KEESOM interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles; - Sh characterizes the specific interaction forces (hydrogen bond, acid / base, donor / acceptor type, etc.); and - 8a is determined by the equation: Sa = (S1,2 + 8112) 1/4. The parameters 8p, 8h, 8D and Sa are expressed in (J / cm3) 1/4. By "hydrocarbon oil" is meant an oil formed essentially, or even constituted, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly of oxygen, nitrogen, and not containing a silicon atom or fluorine. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups. Preferably, the non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon oil may be chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin such as: paraffin oil or its derivatives (mineral oil), squalane, isoeicosane, naphthalene oil, polybutenes such as INDOPOL H-100 (molar mass or MW = 965 g / mol), INDOPOL H-300 (MW = 1340 g / mol), INDOPOL H-1500 (MW = 2160 g / mol) marketed or manufactured by AMOCO, polyisobutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as Parleam® sold by the company Nippon Oil Fats, PANALANE H-300 E marketed or manufactured by the company AMOCO (MW = 1340 g / mol), the Viseal 20000 marketed or manufactured by SYNTEAL (MW = 6000 g / mol), the REWOPAL PIB 1000 marketed or manufactured by WITCO (MW = 1000 g / mol), or the PARLEAM LITE marketed by NOF Corporation, polydecenes and polydecenes h such as: PURESYN 10 (MW = 723 g / mol), PURESYN 150 (MW = 9200 g / mol) marketed or manufactured by MOBIL CHEMICALS, or PURESYN 6 marketed by Exxonmobil Chemical), - decene / butene copolymers, polybutene / polyisobutene copolymers, especially Indopol L-14, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the composition comprises at least one non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon oil, more particularly chosen from paraffin oil or its derivatives, poly (iso) butene hydrogenated or not, or mixtures thereof. Non-Phenylated Silicone Oils The term "non-phenyl silicone oil" refers to a silicone oil having no phenyl substituent. Representative examples of such non-volatile, non-phenolic silicone oils which may be mentioned include polydimethylsiloxanes; alkyldimethicones; Vinylmethylmethicones; and also silicones modified with aliphatic groups and / or with functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and / or amine groups. Note that "dimethicone" (INCI name) corresponds to a poly (dimethylsiloxane) (chemical name). The non-phenylated non-volatile silicone oil is preferably selected from non-volatile dimethicone oils. In particular, these oils may be chosen from the following non-volatile oils: polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs), PDMSs comprising aliphatic groups, in particular alkyl, or alkoxy groups, which are pendant and / or at the end of the silicone chain ; these groups each comprising from 2 to 24 carbon atoms. By way of example, mention may be made of the cetyldimethicone sold under the trade name ABIL WAX 9801 from Evonik Goldschmidt, PDMSs comprising aliphatic groups, or functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and / or amine groups, and polyalkylmethylsiloxanes. substituted with functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and / or amine groups, polysiloxanes modified with fatty acids, fatty alcohols or polyoxyalkylenes, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, these non-volatile, non-phenyl silicone oils are chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes; alkyldimethicones and also PDMSs comprising aliphatic groups, in particular C 2 -C 24 alkyl, and / or functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and / or amine groups. The non-phenyl silicone oil may be chosen in particular from silicones of formula (I): ## STR1 ## in which: R 1, R 1 R2, R5 and R6 are, together or separately, an alkyl radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, R3 and R4 are, together or separately, an alkyl radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a vinyl radical, an amine radical or a hydroxyl radical, X is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical or an amine radical, n and p are integers chosen so as to have a fluid compound, in particular having a viscosity at 25 ° C. is between 9 centistokes (cSt) (9 x 10-6 m2 / s) and 800,000 cSt.
[0014] As non-volatile, non-phenyl silicone oils which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of those for which: the substituents R 1 to R 6 and X represent a methyl group, and p and n are such that the viscosity is of 500 000 cSt, for example the product marketed under the name SE30 by the company General Electric, the product marketed under the name AK 500000 by the company Wacker, the product marketed under the name Mirasil DM 500 000 by the company Bluestar , and the product sold under the name Dow Corning 200 Fluid 500 000 cSt by Dow Corning, - substituents R1 to R6 and X are methyl, and p and n are such that the viscosity is 60,000 cSt, for example the product marketed under the name Dow Corning 200 Fluid 60000 CS by the company Dow Corning, and the product marketed under the name Wacker Belsil DM 60 000 by the company Wacker, - substituents R1 to R6 and X represents have a methyl group, and p and n are such that the viscosity is 100 cSt, ie 350 cSt, for example the products marketed under the names Belsil DM100, Dow Corning 200 Fluid 350 CS, respectively by Dow Corning, the substituents R 1 to R 6 represent a methyl group, the X group represents a hydroxyl group, and n and p are such that the viscosity is 700 cSt, for example the product marketed under the name Baysilone Fluid T0.7 by the company Momentive. Phenylated silicone oils with or without a dimethicone fragment By "silicone oil" is meant an oil containing at least one silicon atom, and in particular containing Si-O groups.
[0015] The term "phenylated" specifies that said oil has in its structure a phenyl radical. The term "dimethicone fragment" denotes a divalent siloxane group whose silicon atom bears two methyl radicals, this group not being at the ends of the molecule. It can be represented by the following formula: - (Si (CH 3) 2 - 25 0) -. By "non-volatile" is meant an oil whose vapor pressure at 25 ° C. and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and less than 0.02 mm Hg (2.66 Pa) and better still less than 10 -3 mm of Hg (0.13 Pa). The non-volatile phenyl silicone oil may thus be chosen from: a) phenylsilicone oils with or without a dimethicone fragment corresponding to the following formula (I): RRR R-Si-O II R-Si O-Si RRR 11 R If R (I) in which the R groups, monovalent or divalent, represent, independently of each other, a methyl or a phenyl, provided that at least one R group represents a phenyl. Preferably, in this formula, the phenylsilicone oil comprises at least three phenyl groups, for example at least four, at least five or at least six. b) phenylsilicone oils having or not a dimethicone fragment corresponding to the following formula (2): RRR R-Si-O Si-O-Si-RRRR (II) in which the R groups represent, independently of one another, a methyl or phenyl, provided that at least one R is phenyl. Preferably, in this formula, the compound of formula (II) comprises at least three phenyl groups, for example at least four or at least five. Mixtures of different phenylorganopolysiloxane compounds previously described may be used. Examples which may be mentioned include mixtures of triphenyl-, tetraphenyl- or pentaphenyl-organopolysiloxanes. Among the compounds of formula (II), mention may be made more particularly of phenylsilicone oils having no dimethicone fragment corresponding to formula (II) in which at least 4 or at least 5 R radicals represent a phenyl radical, the remaining radicals representing methyl groups. . Such nonvolatile phenylsilicone oils are preferably trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane, or tetramethyltetraphenyltrisiloxane. They are in particular marketed by Dow Corning under the reference PH-1555 HRI or Dow Corning 555 Cosmetic Fluid (chemical name: 1,3,5-trimethyl-1,1,1,5,5-pentaphenyltrisiloxane; INCI name: trimethyl- pentaphenyltrisiloxane), or tetramethyltetraphenyltrisiloxane sold under the reference Dow Corning 554 Cosmetic Fluid by Dow Corning can also be used.
[0016] They correspond in particular to the following formulas (III), (III '): Ph Ph Ph Me Ph Me Me-Si-O-Si-O-Si-Me Ph-Si-O-Si-O-Si-Ph 1 1 Ph Ph (III) Me Ph Me (III ') in which Me is methyl, Ph is phenyl. c) phenylsilicone oils having at least one dimethicone moiety corresponding to the following formula (IV): (IV) wherein Me is methyl, y is between 1 and 1000 and X is 5 -CH2-CH (CH3) (Ph) . d) phenylsilicone oils corresponding to the formula (V) below, and mixtures thereof: Me Me IMe X-Si-HO-Si ± 0-Si-X YI Me Me Me pq R1 RSi-O R2 Wherein R 1 to R 10, independently of one another, are C 1 -C 30 hydrocarbon radicals; saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched, - m, n, p and q are, independently of each other, integers between 0 and 900, provided that the sum m + n + q is different from 0.
[0017] Preferably, the sum m + n + q is between 1 and 100. Advantageously, the sum m + n + p + q is between 1 and 900 and preferably between 1 and 800. Preferably, q is equal to 0 More particularly, R1 to R10, independently of one another, represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, C1-C30 hydrocarbon radical, and in particular a hydrocarbon radical, preferably saturated, C1-C20 in particular Ci-Cis, or a C6-C14 aryl radical and in particular C10-C13, monocyclic or polycyclic, or an aralkyl radical preferably whose alkyl part is C 1 -C 3. Preferably, R 1 to R 10 may each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical, or alternatively a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical. R1 to R10 may in particular be identical, and may furthermore be a methyl radical.
[0018] According to a first more particular embodiment of the formula (V), mention may be made of: i) phenylsilicone oils having or not at least one dimethicone fragment corresponding to the formula (VI) below, and mixtures thereof: If R 4 p H 3 C-Si-O R 2 Si-O Si-O O Si (CH 3) 3 Si-CH 3 R 6 m (VI) 5 in which: R 1 to R 6, independently of one another, are hydrocarbon radicals in C 1 -C 30 saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched, an aryl radical, preferably C 6 -C 14, or an aralkyl radical whose alkyl part is C 1 -C 3). m, n and p are, independently of each other, integers between 0 and 100, provided that the sum n + m is between 1 and 100. Preferably, R1 to R6, independently of one of the further represent a hydrocarbon radical, preferably C 1 -C 20, especially C 1 -C 18, alkyl, or a monocyclic (preferably C 6) or polycyclic C 6 -C 14 aryl radical and in particular C 10 -C 13, or an aralkyl radical (preferably the aryl part is C 6, the alkyl part is C 1 -C 3). Preferably, R 1 to R 6 may each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical, or alternatively a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical. R1 to R6 may in particular be identical, and may furthermore be a methyl radical. Preferably, m = 1 or 2 or 3, and / or n = 0 and / or p = 0 or 1 may be applied, in formula (VI). According to a particular embodiment, the non-volatile phenyl silicone oil is chosen from phenyl silicone oils having at least one dimethicone fragment.
[0019] Preferably, such oils correspond to compounds of formula (VI) in which: A) m = 0 and n and p are independently of one another, integers between 1 and 100.
[0020] Preferably R1 to R6 are methyl radicals.
[0021] According to this embodiment, the silicone oil is preferably chosen from a diphenyldimethicone such as KF-54 from Shin Etsu (400 cSt), KF54HV from Shin Etsu (5000 cSt), KF-50-300CS from Shin Etsu (300 cSt) ), KF-53 from Shin Etsu (175cSt), KF-50-100CS from Shin Etsu (100 cSt).
[0022] B) p is between 1 and 100, the sum n + m is between 1 and 100, and n = 0. These phenylsilicone oils possessing or not at least one dimethicone fragment corresponding more particularly to the formula (VII) below: ## STR2 ## in which Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR 'represents a group -OSiMe3 and p is 0 or is between 1 and 1000, and m is between 1 and 1000. In particular, m and p are such that the compound (VII) is an oil nonvolatile. According to a first embodiment of non-volatile phenyl silicone having at least one dimethicone fragment, p is between 1 and 1000. m is more particularly such that the compound (VII) is a non-volatile oil. It can be used, for example, trimethylsiloxyphenyldimethicone, sold in particular under the reference Belsil PDM 1000 by the company Wacker.
[0023] According to a second embodiment of nonvolatile phenyl silicone having no dimethicone fragment, p is equal to 0, m is between 1 and 1000, and in particular is such that the compound (VII) is a non-volatile oil. can be used, for example, phenyltrimethylsiloxytrisiloxane, sold in particular under the reference Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid (DC556). ii) nonvolatile phenylsilicone oils having no dimethicone moiety corresponding to formula (VIII) below, and mixtures thereof: R H3C-Si 0 R Si-O O Si (CH3) 3 R Si- CH 3 RS 0 m (VIII) in which: R, independently of one another, are saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C1-C30 hydrocarbon radicals, preferably R is a C1-C30 alkyl radical, an aryl radical, preferably C6-C14, or an aralkyl radical whose alkyl part is C 1 -C 3). m and n are, independently of one another, integers between 0 and 100, provided that the sum n + m is between 1 and 100. Preferably, R, independently of one another, represent a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, preferably saturated, C1-C30 hydrocarbon radical, and in particular a hydrocarbon radical, preferably saturated, Ci-C20, in particular Ci-C18 and more particularly C4-C10, a C6-C14 aryl radical which is monocyclic or polycyclic and in particular C10-C13, or an aralkyl radical, preferably the aryl part is C6 and the alkyl part is C1-C3). Preferably, the R may each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical, or alternatively a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical. The R may in particular be identical, and furthermore may be a methyl radical. Preferably, m = 1 or 2 or 3, and / or n = 0 and / or p = 0 or 1 may be applied in formula (VIII).
[0024] According to a preferred embodiment, n is an integer between 0 and 100 and m is an integer between 1 and 100, provided that the sum n + m is between 1 and 100, in formula (VIII). Preferably R is a methyl radical. According to one embodiment, a phenylsilicone oil of formula (VIII) having a viscosity at 25 ° C between 5 and 1500 mm 2 / s (i.e., from 5 to 1500 cSt), and preferably having a viscosity between 5 and 1000 mm 2 / s (ie 5 to 1000 cSt) can be used. According to this embodiment, the nonvolatile phenylsilicone oil is preferably chosen from phenyltrimethicones (when n = 0) such as DC556 from Dow Corning (22.5 cSt), or from diphenylsiloxyphenyltrimethicone oil (when m and n range from 1 to 100), such as KF56 A from Shin Etsu, Silbione 70663V30 from Rhône-Poulenc (28 cSt). Values in parentheses represent viscosities at 25 ° C. (e) phenylsilicone oils having at least one dimethicone moiety corresponding to the following formula, and mixtures thereof: R1 173 75/1 X - O - O - Si - O - Si - X R2 R4 R2 p 18 (IX) in which: R1, R2, R5 and R6 are, identical or different, an alkyl radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, R3 and R4 are, identical or different, an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; carbon or an aryl radical (preferably C6-C14), provided that at least one of R3 and R4 is a phenyl radical, X is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical or a vinyl radical, n and p being an integer greater than or equal to 1, chosen so as to give the oil a weight average molecular weight of less than 200 000 g / mol, preferably less than 150 000 g / mol and more preferably less than 100,000 g / mol. f) and a mixture thereof.
[0025] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile phenyl silicone oil, more particularly not containing a dimethicone fragment.
[0026] Volatile oils According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition may also comprise at least one volatile oil. The volatile oil may especially be a silicone oil, a hydrocarbon oil, preferably apolar, or a fluorinated oil.
[0027] According to one embodiment, the volatile oil is a silicone oil and can in particular be chosen from silicone oils having a flash point ranging from 40 ° C. to 102 ° C., preferably having a flash point greater than 55 ° C. and lower or equal to 95 ° C, and preferably ranging from 65 ° C to 95 ° C. As volatile silicone oils that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of linear or cyclic silicones having a viscosity at ambient temperature of less than 8 centistokes (cSt) (8 × 10 -6 m 2 / s), and having, in particular, from 2 to 10 silicon atoms, and in particular 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally containing alkyl or alkoxy groups having 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As the volatile silicone oil that may be used in the invention, mention may be made, in particular, of dimethicones of viscosity 5 and 6 cSt, octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof. According to a second embodiment, the volatile oil is a fluorinated oil, such as nonafluoromethoxybutane or perfluoromethylcyclopentane, and mixtures thereof. According to a third embodiment, the volatile oil is a hydrocarbon oil, preferably apolar. The apolar volatile hydrocarbon oil may have a flash point ranging from 40 ° C. to 102 ° C., preferably ranging from 40 ° C. to 55 ° C., and preferably ranging from 40 ° C. to 50 ° C. The hydrocarbon-based volatile oil may especially be chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof, and in particular: C8-C16 branched alkanes, for example iso-alkanes (also known as isoparaffins) with C 8 -C 8 C16, isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names of Isopars or permetyls, linear alkanes, for example such as n-dodecane and n-tetradecane sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97, as well as their mixtures, the mixture undecane-tridecane (Cetol UT), the mixtures of nundecane and n-tridecane obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of the application W02008 / 155059 from Cognis Corporation and their mixtures. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one phenyl silicone oil, which may or may not have a dimethicone fragment, and preferably does not comprise it.
[0028] According to this preferred embodiment, the composition further comprises one or more volatile silicone oils. Furthermore, the composition may also preferably comprise at least one apolar hydrocarbon oil, chosen more particularly from poly (iso) butenes, hydrogenated or otherwise.
[0029] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the content of apolar oil, hydrocarbon or silicone, volatile or not, varies more particularly from 5 to 40% by weight, preferably from 8 to 30% by weight, relative to weight of the composition; the composition comprising not more than 20% by weight of the lipophilic phase of apolar hydrocarbon compound of synthetic origin. More particularly, the weight ratio non-volatile silicone oil / volatile silicone oil when they are present in the composition ranges from 0.1 to 2. Solid compounds As mentioned previously, the lipophilic phase of the composition comprises at least one solid compound whose melting temperature is at least 30 ° C, and preferably between 30 ° C and 100 ° C, selected from hydrocarbon compounds, polar or apolar.
[0030] These solid compounds may be chosen from waxes or pasty compounds. Waxes The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one wax. The waxes that may be used in a composition according to the invention are chosen from waxes, solid, deformable or not at room temperature, of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof. For the purposes of the invention, the term "wax" means a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25 ° C.), with reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30 ° C. up to 100 ° C. For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "DSC Q2000" by the company TA Instruments. Preferably, the waxes have a melting enthalpy AHf greater than or equal to 70 J / g. Preferably, the waxes comprise at least one crystallizable part, visible by X-ray observations.
[0031] The measurement protocol is as follows: A sample of 5 mg of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise from -20 ° C to 120 ° C, at the heating rate of 10 ° C / minute. then cooled from 120 ° C to -20 ° C at a cooling rate of 10 ° C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from -20 ° C to 120 ° C at a heating rate of 5 ° C / minute. During the second rise in temperature, the following parameters are measured: the melting point (Tf) of the wax, as previously mentioned, corresponding to the temperature of the most endothermic peak of the observed melting curve, representing the variation of the the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature; AHf: the melting enthalpy of the wax corresponding to the integral of the whole of the melting curve obtained. This enthalpy of fusion of the wax is the amount of energy required to pass the compound from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J / g.
[0032] The wax may especially have a hardness ranging from 0.05 MPa to 15 MPa, and preferably ranging from 6 MPa to 15 MPa. The hardness is determined by measuring the compression force measured at 20 ° C. using the texturometer sold under the name TATX2i by the company RHEO, equipped with a stainless steel cylinder with a diameter of 2 mm moving at the measuring speed is 0.1 mm / s, and penetrating into the wax at a penetration depth of 0.3 mm. Apolar waxes By "apolar wax" is meant a wax whose solubility parameter at 25 ° C. as defined below, Sa is equal to 0 (J / cm 3) 1/4. The apolar waxes are in particular hydrocarbon waxes consisting solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms and free from heteroatoms such as N, O, Si and P. By "hydrocarbon wax" is meant a substantially formed wax, even constituted wax , carbon atoms and hydrogen, and optionally oxygen atoms, nitrogen, and not containing a silicon atom or fluorine. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups. More particularly, the apolar wax may be chosen from microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite, polyethylene waxes, polymethylene waxes, microwaxes and mixtures thereof. As microcrystalline waxes that can be used, mention may be made of MULTIWAX W 445® marketed by SONNEBORN and MICROWAX HW® and BASE WAX 30540 ° marketed by PARAIVIELT. As ozokerite mention may be made OZOKERITE WAX SP 1020 P.
[0033] As polyethylene wax, there may be mentioned PERFORMALENE 500-L POLYETHYLENE and PERFORMALENE 400 POLYETHYLENE marketed by New Phase Technologies. As polymethylene wax, mention may be made of POLYMETHYLENE WAX (54 ° C) sold under the reference Cirebelle 303; POLYMETHYLENE WAX (80 ° C) sold under the reference Cirebelle 108 marketed by Cirebelle As microcires that can be used in the compositions according to the invention as apolar wax, there may be mentioned in particular polyethylene microwires such as those sold under the Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 2505® denominations by MICRO POWDERS.
[0034] Polar waxes For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polar wax" means a wax whose solubility parameter at 25 ° C. Sa is different from 0 (J / cm 3) 1/4.
[0035] In particular, "polar wax" is understood to mean a wax whose chemical structure is formed essentially or even consisting of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and comprising at least one highly electronegative heteroatom such as an oxygen atom. , nitrogen, silicon or phosphorus.
[0036] The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters in the HANSEN three-dimensional solubility space are described in the article by C. M. HANSEN: "The three dimensionna" solubility parameters "J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967). According to this Hansen space: - 8D characterizes the LONDON dispersion forces resulting from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular shocks; - 8p characterizes the DEBYE interaction forces between permanent dipoles as well as the KEESOM interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles; - Sh characterizes the specific interaction forces (hydrogen bond, acid / base, donor / acceptor type, etc.); - 8a is determined by the equation: Sa = (S1,2 + 8h2) 1/4 The parameters 8p, 811, 8D and Sa are expressed in (J / cm3) 'Q. The polar waxes may especially be hydrocarbon, fluorinated or silicone. By "silicone wax" is meant an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular comprising Si-O groups. According to a first embodiment, the polar wax is a hydrocarbon wax. As hydrocarbon polar wax, a wax chosen from ester waxes and alcohol waxes is particularly preferred. By "ester wax" is meant according to the invention a wax comprising at least one ester function. By "alcohol wax" is meant according to the invention a wax comprising at least one alcohol function, that is to say comprising at least one free hydroxyl (OH) group. Ester waxes may be used especially as: - ester waxes such as those chosen from: i) waxes of formula R 1 COROR 2 in which R 1 and R 2 represent linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chains whose number of atoms varies from 10 at 50, which may contain a heteroatom such as O, N or P and whose melting point temperature varies from 25 to 120 ° C.
[0037] In particular, a C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy) stearate (the alkyl group comprising 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture or a C20-C40 alkyl stearate, may be used as ester wax. Such waxes are sold, for example, under the names "Kester Wax K 82 P®", "Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®", "Kester Wax K 80 P®", or "Kester KSH WAX" by the company Koster Keunen. ii) montanate (octacosanoate) glycol and butylene glycol waxes such as LICOWAX KPS FLAKES wax (INCI name: montanate glycol) marketed by Clariant. iii) di- (trimethylol-1,1,1 propane) tetrastearate, sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company HETERENE. iv) diester waxes of a dicarboxylic acid of general formula R3 - (- 000-R4-COO-R5), in which R3 and R5 are identical or different, preferably identical and represent a C4-C30 alkyl group (group alkyl comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms) and R4 represents a C4-C30 aliphatic group (alkyl group comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms) linear branched which may or may not contain 1 or more unsaturations, and preferably linear and unsaturated. v) There may also be mentioned waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched C8-C32 fatty chains, for example such as hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, and waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64® and 22L73® by the SOPHIM company. Such waxes are described in application FR-A-2792190 and the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with stearyl alcohol such as that sold under the name "PHYTOWAX Olive 18 L 57" or else. (vi) beeswax, synthetic beeswax, polyglycerolated beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, oxypropylene lanolin wax, rice bran wax, Ouricury wax , Alfa wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax; sumac wax; montan wax, orange wax, laurel wax, hydrogenated Jojoba wax, silicone waxes obtained by esterification with a (poly) alkoxylated silicone such as silicone beeswax, silicone wax candelilla, carnauba wax, and mixtures thereof As alcoholic wax, mention may be made of alcohols, preferably linear, preferably saturated, comprising from 16 to 60 carbon atoms, whose melting point is between 25 and 120 ° C. . For example, there may be mentioned Performacol 550-L Alcohol Wax from New Phase Technology, stearic, cetyl, myristic, palmitic, behenic, erucic, arachidyl, or mixtures thereof. Paste compounds The composition considered according to the invention may further comprise at least one pasty fatty substance. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "pasty fatty substance" (also referred to as pasty fatty substance) is understood to mean a lipophilic fat compound with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having in the solid state an anisotropic crystalline organization and comprising at least one the temperature of 23 ° C a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. In other words, the starting melting temperature of the pasty compound may be less than 23 ° C. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 23 ° C. can represent 9 to 97% by weight of the compound. This liquid fraction at 23 ° C is preferably between 15 and 85%, more preferably between 40 and 85% by weight. For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of a paste or a wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by the company TA Instruments . The measurement protocol is as follows: A sample of 5 mg of paste or wax (as the case may be) placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise from -20 ° C to 100 ° C, at the rate of heating of 10 ° C / minute, then is cooled from 100 ° C to -20 ° C at a cooling rate of 10 ° C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from -20 ° C to 100 ° C at a heating rate of 5 ° C / minute. During the second temperature rise, the variation of the power difference absorbed by the empty crucible and the crucible containing the pasty or wax sample is measured as a function of temperature. The melting point of the compound is the value of the temperature corresponding to the peak apex of the curve representing the variation of the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature. The liquid fraction by weight of the pasty compound at 23 ° C. is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23 ° C. to the heat of fusion of the pasty compound.
[0038] The heat of fusion of the pasty compound is the enthalpy consumed by the compound to pass from the solid state to the liquid state. The pasty compound is said to be in the solid state when the entirety of its mass is in crystalline solid form. The pasty compound is said to be in a liquid state when all of its mass is in liquid form. The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is equal to the area under the curve of the thermogram obtained using a differential scanning calorimeter (DS C), such as the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA instrument, with a temperature rise of 5 or 10 ° C per minute, according to ISO 11357-3: 1999. The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is the amount of energy required to pass the compound from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J / g.
[0039] The heat of fusion consumed at 23 ° C is the amount of energy absorbed by the sample to change from the solid state to the state that it has at 23 ° C consisting of a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32 ° C is preferably 30 to 100% by weight of the compound, preferably 50 to 100%, more preferably 60 to 100% by weight of the compound. When the liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32 ° C. is equal to 100%, the temperature of the end of the melting range of the pasty compound is less than or equal to 32 ° C. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32 ° C. is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32 ° C. to the heat of fusion of the pasty compound. The enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32 ° C. is calculated in the same way as the heat of fusion consumed at 23 ° C. The pasty fatty substance may be chosen from synthetic compounds and compounds of plant origin. A pasty fatty substance can be obtained synthetically from starting materials of plant origin. The pasty compound is advantageously chosen from: lanolin and its derivatives, such as lanolin alcohol, oxyethylenated lanolines, acetylated lanolin, lanolin esters such as isopropyl lanolate and oxypropylenated lanolines; Vaseline, in particular the one whose INCI name is petrolatum and marketed under the name ULTIMA WHITE PET USP by Perenco, polyol ethers chosen from pentaerythritol ethers and polyalkylene glycol ethers, fatty alcohol ethers and of sugar, and mixtures thereof. pentaerythritol ether and polyethylene glycol comprising 5 oxyethylenated units (50E) (CTFA name: PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether), pentaerythritol ether and polypropylene glycol comprising 5 oxypropylene units (5 PO) (CTFA name: PPG- 5 Pentaerythrityl Ether), and mixtures thereof, and more particularly the PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether mixture, PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether and soybean oil, sold under the name "Lanolide" by the company Vevy, a mixture in which the constituents are in a ratio by weight 46/46/8: 46% PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether, 46% PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether and 8% soybean oil. the liposoluble polyethers resulting from the polyetherification between one or more C2-C100, preferably C2-C50, diols. Among the liposoluble polyethers, ethylene-oxide and / or propylene-oxide copolymers with C6-C30 long-chain alkylene oxides, more preferably such that the weight ratio of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with alkylene oxides in the copolymer is 5:95 to 70:30. In this family, mention will in particular be made of copolymers such as long-chain alkylene oxides are arranged in blocks having an average molecular weight of 1,000 to 10,000, for example a polyoxyethylene / polydodecyl glycol block copolymer such as dodecanediol ethers (22). mol) and polyethylene glycol (45 0E) marketed under the tradename ELFACOS ST9 by Akzo Nobel. esters and polyesters and / or their mixtures. Among the esters, the following are particularly preferred: oligomeric esters of glycerol, in particular diglycerol esters, in particular adipic acid and glycerol condensates, for which part of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture of acids fatty acids such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid and isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, preferably such as bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 sold under the trademark Softisan 649 by the company Sasol, homopolymers of vinyl ester having C8-C30 alkyl groups, such as polyvinyl laurate (in particular sold under the reference Mexomère PP by the company Chimex), arachidyl propionate sold under the trade name Waxenol 801 by Alzo, phytosterol esters, triglycerides of fatty acids and their derivatives, such as, for example, fatty acid triglycerides, especially of C10-C18, partially or totally hydrogenated. such as those sold under the reference Softisan 100 by the company Sasol, the pentaerythritol esters, the non-crosslinked polyesters resulting from the polycondensation between a linear or branched C 4 -C 50 dicarboxylic acid or polycarboxylic acid and a diol or a polyol in C2-050, the aliphatic ester esters resulting from the esterification of an aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester with an aliphatic carboxylic acid. Preferably, the aliphatic carboxylic acid comprises from 4 to 30 and preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. It is preferably selected from hexanoic acid, heptanoic acid, octanoic acid, 2-ethyl hexanoic acid, nonanoic acid, decanoic acid, undecanoic acid, dodecanoic acid, acid tridecanoic acid, tetradecanoic acid, pentadecanoic acid, hexadecanoic acid, hexydecanoic acid, heptadecanoic acid, octadecanoic acid, isostearic acid, nonadecanoic acid, eicosanoic acid, acid isoarachidic acid, octyldodecanoic acid, henicosanoic acid, docosanoic acid, and mixtures thereof. The aliphatic carboxylic acid is preferably branched. The aliphatic hydroxy carboxylic acid ester is advantageously derived from a hydroxylated aliphatic carboxylic acid having from 2 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 34 carbon atoms and better still from 12 to 28 carbon atoms, and from 1 to to 20 hydroxyl groups, preferably 1 to 10 hydroxyl groups and more preferably 1 to 6 hydroxyl groups. The aliphatic hydroxy carboxylic acid ester is chosen from: a) partial or total esters of saturated linear monohydroxylated aliphatic monocarboxylic acids; b) partial or total esters of unsaturated monohydroxylated aliphatic monocarboxylic acids; c) partial or total esters of saturated monohydroxylated aliphatic polycarboxylic acids; d) partial or total esters of saturated polyhydroxylated aliphatic polycarboxylic acids; e) the partial or total esters of C2 to C16 aliphatic polyols reacted with a mono- or polyhydroxylated aliphatic mono or poly carboxylic acid, and mixtures thereof. the diol dimer and diacid dimer esters, if appropriate, esterified on their (their) alcohol (s) or free acid (s) function (s) with acidic radicals or alcohols, especially dimer dilinoleate esters, such esters may in particular be chosen from the following INCI nomenclature esters: bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl dimerdilinoleyl dimerdilinoleate (Plandool G), phytosteryl / isosteryl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl dimerdilinoleate (Plandool H or Plandool S), and their mixtures, vegetable butters such as mango butter, such as that sold under the reference Lipex 203 by the company Aharhuskarlshamn, shea butter, in particular the one whose INCI name is Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, such as that marketed under the reference Sheasoft® by AARHUSKARLSHAMN, cupuacu butter (Rain forest RF3410 from Beraca Sabara), murumuru butter (RAIN FOREST RF3710 from Ber aca Sabara), cocoa butter; as well as orange wax such as, for example, that marketed under the reference Orange Peel Wax by the company Koster Keunen, - vegetable oils that are totally or partially hydrogenated, such as, for example, hydrogenated soybean oil, oil hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, hydrogenated vegetable oil mixtures such as the hydrogenated vegetable oil mixture of soybean, coconut, palm and rapeseed, for example the mixture sold under the reference Akogel® by the company Aharushkarlshamn (INCI name Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), trans isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil manufactured or marketed by Desert Whale under the trade name Iso-Jojoba-50®, partially hydrogenated olive oil such as, for example, compound sold under the reference Beurrolive by Soliance, - hydrogenated castor oil esters, such as hydrogenated castor oil dimer dilinoleate, for example RISOCAST-DA-L sold by KOKYU ALCOHOL KOGYO, hydrogenated castor oil isostearate, for example SALACOS HCIS (V-L) sold by NISSHIN OIL, and mixtures thereof. Among the pasty compounds, liposoluble polyethers, esters and polyesters with, in particular, esters of glycerol oligomers, butters of plant origin, and vegetable oils which are totally or partially hydrogenated, will preferably be chosen. According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one wax.
[0040] Preferably, content of solid compound (s) varies from 0.15 to 20% by weight relative to the weight of the composition. Surfactant system The composition according to the invention comprises at least one emulsifying surfactant system, more particularly chosen from polyol fatty acid esters such as mono-, di-, tri- or sesquiolates or sorbitol or glycerol stearates, glycerol or polyethylene glycol laurates; silicone surfactants such as alkyl or alkoxy dimethicones copolyols; pendant alkyl or alkoxy chain or at the end of the silicone skeleton having, for example, from 6 to 22 carbon atoms; polymers of the polyoxyalkylenated glycol fatty acid ester type. The composition according to the invention comprises an emulsifying surfactant for obtaining a water-in-oil emulsion, in particular a surfactant having an HLB (hydrophilic / lipophilic balance) of less than 7.
[0041] Preferably, the emulsifying surfactant is chosen from polyol fatty acid esters such as mono-, di-, tri- or sesquiolates or sorbitol or glycerol stearates, glycerol or polyethylene glycol laurates; alkyl or alkoxy dimethicone copolyols having an alkyl or pendant alkoxy chain or a silicone backbone having, for example, from 6 to 22 carbon atoms; polymers of the polyoxyalkylene glycol fatty acid ester type, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the composition comprises at least one silicone surfactant. Preferably, the composition comprises at least one surfactant chosen from alkyl or alkoxy dimethicone copolyols having an alkyl or pendant alkoxy chain or a silicone backbone having, for example, from 6 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0042] In particular, the emulsifying surfactant may be a C8-C22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol, that is to say an oxypropylene and / or oxyethylenated poly (C 8 -C 22) alkyl dimethyl methyl siloxane. The C8-C22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol is advantageously a compound of the following formula (I): ## STR2 ## Si (CH 3) 3 Si 3 SiO 3 SiO 3 Wherein: PE is (-C 2 H 4 O) - (C 3 H 6 O) 5, -R, R being selected from a hydrogen atom and an alkyl radical of 1 to 4 carbon atoms, x ranging from 0 to 100 and y ranging from 0 to 80, x and y not being simultaneously 0 - m ranging from 1 to 40 - n ranging from 10 to 200 -o ranging from there 100 - p ranging of 7 and 21 - q ranging from 0 to 4. and preferably: R = H m = 1 to 10 n = 10 to 100 o = 1 to 30 p = 15 q = 3. Preferably, as alkyl C8-C22 dimethicone copolyol, cetyl dimethicone copolyol is used, in particular whose INCI name is CETYL PEG / PPG-10/1 DIMETHICONE, such as the product marketed under the name Abil EM-90 by the company Evonik Goldschmidt. As another surfactant useful in the invention for obtaining an W / O emulsion, mention may be made of polymers of the polyoxyalkylenated glycol fatty acid ester type having water-in-oil emulsifying properties. The fatty acid ester of said polymer is preferably polyhydroxylated. In particular, this polymer is a block polymer, preferably of ABA structure, comprising poly (hydroxyl ester) sequences and polyethylene glycol sequences. The fatty acid ester of said emulsifying polymer as defined above generally has a chain having from 12 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 14 to 18 carbon atoms. The esters may especially be chosen from oleates, palmitates or stearates.
[0043] The polyethylene glycol sequences of said emulsifying polymer as defined above preferably comprise from 4 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide, and more preferably from 20 to 40 moles of ethylene oxide. A polymeric surfactant particularly suitable for producing the compositions of the invention is the polyethylene glycol dihydroxystearate 30 OE sold under the trade name "Arlacel P 135" by the company ICI. Advantageously, the surfactant may be chosen from the group comprising the alkyl esters of polyol. As alkyl esters of polyol, mention may be made in particular of glycerol and / or sorbitan esters and for example polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate sold under the name LAMEFORM TGI by the company Cognis, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, such as product sold under the name Isolan GI 34 by the company Goldschmidt, sorbitan isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 987 by the company ICI, sorbitan isostearate of glycerol and sorbitan, such as the product marketed under the name Arlacel 986 denomination by the company ICI, and mixtures thereof. The composition according to the invention may of course comprise several surfactants. In particular, the composition according to the invention may comprise a mixture of at least two surfactants chosen from polyol fatty acid esters such as mono-, di-, tri- or sesquiolates or sorbitol or glycerol stearates. glycerol laurates or polyethylene glycol; alkyl or alkoxy dimethicone copolyols having an alkyl or pendant alkoxy chain or a silicone backbone having, for example, from 6 to 22 carbon atoms; polymers of the polyoxyalkylene glycol fatty acid ester type; and their mixtures. According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a silicone surfactant, preferably chosen from C8-C22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol of formula (I), preferably cetyl dimethicone copolyol, in particular whose INCI name is the CETYL PEG / PPG-10/1 DIMETHICONE, such as the product marketed under the name Abil EM-90 by the company Evonik Goldschmidt.
[0044] Preferably, according to this embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one co-surfactant chosen from alkyl esters of polyol, preferably from esters of glycerol and / or sorbitan. Preferably the co-surfactant is selected from polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, polyglycerol-4 isostearate, sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan isostearate and glycerol, and mixtures thereof.
[0045] Preferably, the co-surfactant is polyglycerol-4 isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Isolan GI 34 by Goldschmidt. The emulsifying surfactant system can be present in the composition in a content ranging from 1 to 6 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 2 to 6% by weight.
[0046] A composition according to the invention may furthermore comprise any additional component usually used in cosmetics, such as dyestuffs, fillers or cosmetic active agents. Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional compounds, and / or their quantity, in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition used according to the invention are not, or not substantially, impaired by the adj anointing considered. COLORING MATERIALS A composition in accordance with the present invention may comprise at least one dyestuff which may be chosen from water-soluble or non-fat-soluble or non-water-soluble dyestuffs, organic or inorganic, optical effect materials, and mixtures thereof. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "dyestuff" means a compound capable of producing a colored optical effect when it is formulated in sufficient quantity in a suitable cosmetic medium. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one dyestuff chosen from pigments and / or nacres and / or water-soluble dyes, and mixtures thereof.
[0047] According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one water-soluble dyestuff. The water-soluble dyestuffs used according to the invention are more particularly water-soluble dyes. For the purposes of the invention, the term "water-soluble dye" is intended to mean any generally organic compound, natural or synthetic, soluble in an aqueous phase or solvents that are miscible with water and capable of coloring. In particular, it is intended to characterize, by the term water-soluble, the ability of a compound to solubilize in water, measured at 25 ° C., at a concentration of at least 0.1 g / l (obtaining a macroscopically isotropic and transparent solution, colored or not). This solubility is in particular greater than or equal to 1 g / l. As water-soluble dyes that are suitable for the invention, water-soluble synthetic or natural dyes, such as, for example, FDC Red 4 (CI: 14700), DC Red 6 (Lithol Rubine Na, CI: 15850), DC can be mentioned. Red 22 (CI: 45380), DC Red 28 (CI: 45410 Na salt), DC Red 30 (CI: 73360), DC Red 33 (CI: 17200), DC Orange 4 (CI: 15510), FDC Yellow 5 (CI: 19140), FDC Yellow 6 (CI: 15985), DC Yellow 8 (CI: 45350 Na Salt), FDC Green 3 (CI: 42053), DC Green 5 (CI: 61570); ), FDC Blue 1 (CI: 42090). By way of non-limiting illustration of sources of water-soluble dye (s) that may be used in the context of the present invention, mention may be made especially of those of natural origin, such as extracts of carmine, cochineal, beetroot, grape, carrot, tomato, annatto, paprika, henna, caramel and curcumin. Thus, the water-soluble dyestuffs that are suitable for the invention are in particular carminic acid, betanine, anthocyanins, enocyanines, lycopene, beta-carotene, bixin, norbixin, capsanthin, capsulubin, flovoxanthine, lutein, cryptoxanthin, rubixanthine, violaxanthin, riboflavin, roudoxanthin, cantaxanthin, chlorophyll, and mixtures thereof. It may also be copper sulphate, iron, water-soluble sulphopolyesters, rhodamine, betaine, methylene blue, disodium tartrazine salt and disodium fuschine salt. Some of these water-soluble dyestuffs are in particular approved for food. As a representative of these dyes, mention may be made more particularly of the dyes of the family of carotenoids, referenced under the food codes E120, E162, E163, E160a-g, E150a, E101, E100, E140 and E141. According to a preferred variant, the water-soluble dyestuff (s) to be transferred to the skin and / or the lips to be made up, are formulated in a physiologically acceptable medium so as to be compatible with impregnation at the level of the substrate.
[0048] The water-soluble dyestuff (s) may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.001 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.002 to 3% by weight. % by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition According to another embodiment, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one pigment and / or one nacre as coloring matter. The term "pigments" means white or colored, inorganic (mineral) or organic particles, insoluble in the liquid organic phase, intended to color and / or opacify the composition and / or the deposit produced with the composition.
[0049] The pigments may be chosen from inorganic pigments, organic pigments, and composite pigments (that is to say pigments based on mineral and / or organic materials). The pigments may be chosen from monochromatic pigments, lacquers, pearlescent agents, optical effect pigments, such as reflecting pigments and goniochromatic pigments. The inorganic pigments may be chosen from metal oxide pigments, chromium oxides, iron oxides, titanium dioxide, zinc oxides, cerium oxides, zirconium oxides, manganese violet, prussian blue, ultramarine blue, ferric blue, and their mixtures.
[0050] The organic pigments may be, for example: cochineal carmine, organic pigments of azo, anthraquinone, indigo, xanthene, pyrenic, quinoline, triphenylmethane or fluoran dyes; organic lakes or insoluble salts of sodium, potassium, calcium, barium, aluminum, zirconium, strontium, titanium, acid dyes such as azo, anthraquinone, indigo, xanthene, pyrenic, quinoline dyes , triphenylmethane, fluoran. These dyes generally comprise at least one carboxylic or sulphonic acid group; melanic pigments. Among the organic pigments, mention may be made of D & C Blue No. 4, D & C Brown No. 1, D & C Green No. 5, D & C Green No. 6, D & C Orange No. 4, D & C Orange No. 5, D & C Orange No. 10 , D & C Orange No. 11, D & C Red No. 6, D & C Red No. 7, D & C Red No. 17, D & C Red No. 21, D & C Red No. 22, D & C Red No. 27, D & C Red No. 28, D & C Red Red No. 30, D & C Red No. 31, D & C Red No. 33, D & C Red No. 34, D & C Red No. 36, D & C Violet No. 2, D & C Yellow No. 7, D & C Yellow No. 8, D & C Yellow No. ° 10, D & C Yellow No. 11, FD & C Blue No. 1, FD & C Green No. 3, FD & C Red No. 40, FD & C Yellow No. 5, FD & C Yellow No. 6.
[0051] The hydrophobic treatment agent may be chosen from silicones such as methicones, dimethicones and perfluoroalkylsilanes; fatty acids such as stearic acid; metallic soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, hydrogenated tallow glutamate aluminum salt, perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoroalkyl silanes, perfluoroalkyl silazanes, hexafluoropropylene polyoxides, polyorganosiloxanes comprising perfluoroalkyl perfluoropolyether groups, amino acids ; N-acyl amino acids or their salts; lecithin, isopropyl trisostearyl titanate, and mixtures thereof. The N-acyl amino acids may comprise an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, for example a 2-ethyl hexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group. The salts of these compounds may be aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zin, sodium or potassium salts. The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine. The alkyl term mentioned in the compounds mentioned above denotes in particular an alkyl group having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably having from 5 to 16 atoms. of carbon. Hydrophobic-treated pigments are described in particular in application EP-A-1066683.
[0052] For the purposes of the present application, the term "mother-of-pearl" means colored particles of any shape, iridescent or otherwise, in particular produced by certain shellfish in their shell or else synthesized and which exhibit a color effect by optical interference. Examples of pearlescent agents include pearlescent pigments such as iron oxide-coated titanium mica, bismuth oxychloride-coated mica, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with a organic dye including the aforementioned type as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. It may also be mica particles on the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic dyestuffs. The nacres may more particularly have a color or a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or coppery reflection. As an illustration of nacres that can be introduced as interference pigment in the first composition, mention may be made of gold-colored pearlescent agents marketed by ENGELHARD under the name Brillant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); bronze nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the name Bronze Fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by Engelhard under the name Super Bronze (Cloisonne); orange nacres sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by the company Merck under the name Passion Orange (Colorona) and Matte Orange (17449) (Microna); brown-colored pearlescent agents marketed by Engelhard under the name Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); nacres with a copper sheen sold especially by Engelhard under the name Copper 340A (Timica); the nacres with a red glint sold especially by MERCK under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona); yellow-colored pearlescent agents marketed by ENGELHARD under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); the red-colored pearlescent agents with a gold glint sold especially by ENGELHARD under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); pink nacres sold especially by Engelhard under the name Tan opal G005 (Gemtone); the black nacres with gold reflection sold by the company Engelhard under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica), the blue nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the name Matte Blue (17433) (Microna), the white nacres with reflection silver sold in particular by the company Merck under the name Xirona Silver and the golden-green orange-colored mother-of-pearl marketed by Merck under the name Indian summer (Xirona) and their mixtures.
[0053] The composition according to the invention may also be free of coloring matter. CHARGES A cosmetic composition used according to the invention may also comprise at least one filler, of organic or mineral nature. By "charge" is meant colorless or white, solid particles of all shapes, which are in an insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition. Of mineral or organic nature, they make it possible to impart body or stiffness to the composition, and / or softness, and uniformity to make-up. They are distinct from the dyestuffs Among the fillers that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made of silica, kaolin, bentone, starch, lauroyl-lysine or fumed silica particles, optionally treated with hydrophilic or hydrophobic, and mixtures thereof. A composition used according to the invention may comprise one or more fillers in a content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 1% to 10% by weight relative to to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprising comprises at least one compound chosen from fillers, waxes, pasty fatty substances, semi-crystalline polymers and / or lipophilic gelling agents, and mixtures thereof. ADDITIONAL USUAL COSMETIC INGREDIENTS A composition used according to the invention may furthermore comprise any usual cosmetic ingredient which may be chosen in particular from antioxidants, additional film-forming polymers (lipophilic or hydrophilic), perfumes, preservatives, neutralizers, filters. sunscreens, sweeteners, vitamins, anti-free radical agents, sequestering agents, and mixtures thereof. Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional ingredients and / or their quantity so that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not or substantially not impaired by the addition envisaged. A composition according to the invention may be more particularly a make-up and / or lip care composition.
[0054] A composition according to the invention may constitute a liquid lipstick, or a cream or paste more or less thick for the lips, such as a lip gloss or lip butter, for example. The composition according to the invention can be manufactured by known methods, generally used in the cosmetic or dermatological field.
[0055] The composition according to the invention may be packaged in any type of device that is customary in the field of fluid cosmetic compositions intended in particular to be applied to the lips.
[0056] It will thus be possible to envisage devices comprising a container comprising an applicator provided with a ball (roll-on), a dispenser-type container, terminated with an end provided with at least one orifice through which the composition can be expelled, or still finished with a felt pen, or a flocked tip, or a brush; a container comprising a plunging applicator, such as a brush for example.
[0057] Such devices may or may not be provided with a dispensing mechanism of the composition for expelling said composition from the container to the applicator member, or to the support. It should be noted that this mechanism may advantageously comprise a means for assaying the composition.
[0058] The following examples are presented by way of illustration of the invention and can not be interpreted as limiting the scope thereof. Example: The following composition is prepared (the contents are expressed in% by weight of active ingredient, unless otherwise indicated): Cyclopentasiloxane (and) PEG / PPG-18/18 Dimethicone 20 * (dispersion at 12.5% by weight; Corning 5225C Formulation Aid, Dow Corning Company) Phenyltrimethicone (Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid, Dow Corning Company) 6 Apricot Almond Oil (Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil; 5 Apricot Kernel Oil from Desert Whale Company) Vaseline Blanche (White Vaseline Codex 236, from Aiglon) 4 Disteardimonium hectorite (Bentone 38 VCG company 0.75 Elementis) Glycerine 5 Propylene glycol 2 Propylene carbonate 0.07 Preservative 0.3 Sequesterant 0.05 Water Qs 100 * content expressed in commercial product Preparation protocol: In a skillet are introduced the components of the oily phase and the whole is brought to a temperature sufficient to melt the solid / pasty ingredients and obtain a 5 m homogeneous mixture. The components of the aqueous phase are then added with stirring (Rayneri) to obtain an inverse emulsion. The deposit on the lips of the composition gives a homogeneous deposit, thin and light, non-greasy, non-tacky and fast drying. The condition of the lips is improved, especially their softness. This effect is persistent even after stopping treatment.

权利要求:
Claims (19)
[0001]
REVENDICATIONS1. Cosmetic composition of the water-in-oil emulsion type comprising: from 8 to 70% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, an aqueous phase comprising one or more moisturizing or humectant agents, from 30 to 92% by weight of a lipophilic phase comprising: at least one first polar nonvolatile hydrocarbon oil; at least one apolar, hydrocarbon or silicone oil, which may or may not be volatile; at least one solid compound, the melting temperature of which is at least 30 ° C., chosen from hydrocarbon compounds, polar or apolar, the composition comprising not more than 20% by weight of the lipophilic phase of apolar hydrocarbon compound; of synthetic origin, - at least one emulsifying surfactant system for obtaining water-in-oil emulsion. 15
[0002]
2. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that it comprises at least one hydrating agent or humectant selected from polyhydric alcohols, preferably C2-Cs comprising from 2 to 6 hydroxyl radicals, sugars, urea and its derivatives, lactic acid and its salts, hyaluronic acid and its salts, AHAs, BHAs, sodium pidolate, serine, ectoin and its derivatives, chitosan and its derivatives, collagen, plankton, imperata cylindra extract, homopolymers of acrylic acid, beta-glucan, a mixture of passionflower oils, apricot, corn, and rice bran, a C-glycoside derivative, a rose oil muscat, an extract of microalga Prophyridium cruentum enriched in zinc, arginine, or mixtures thereof; and in particular from polyhydric alcohols, preferably C 2 -C 5 alcohols comprising from 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups, hyaluronic acid and its salts, and mixtures thereof.
[0003]
3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at most 10% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, moisturizing agent (s) or humectant (s), and preferably from 3 to 10% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
[0004]
4. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that it comprises at least a first non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil chosen from non-volatile ester oils, and in particular monoesters comprising at least 18 carbon atoms, triglycerides from fatty acids having 7 to 40 carbon atoms, liquid at room temperature, vegetable hydrocarbon oils, and mixtures thereof.
[0005]
5. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the first oil is chosen from: monoesters, of formula R 1 COROR 2 in which R 1 represents the residue of a linear or branched or aromatic fatty acid containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms , saturated or unsaturated, and R2 represents a particularly branched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that the sum of the carbon atoms of the radicals R 1 and R 2 is greater than or equal to 18, the triglycerides of fatty acids, in particular saturated, such as heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides and mixtures thereof, glyceryl triheptanoate, glycerol trioctanoate, C18-36 acid triglycerides; vegetable hydrocarbon oils such as jojoba oil, unsaturated triglycerides such as castor oil, olive oil, ximenia oil, pracaxi oil, coriander oil, macadamia oil, passionflower oil, argan oil, sesame oil, grapeseed oil, avocado oil, apricot kernel oil (Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil), the liquid fraction of shea butter, the liquid fraction of cocoa butter, * their mixtures.
[0006]
6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of the first oil (s) varies from 1 to 20% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
[0007]
7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the apolar oil, hydrocarbon or silicone, non-volatile is selected from non-phenyl silicone oils; phenyl silicone oils comprising or not a dimethicone moiety; hydrocarbon-based oils such as paraffin oil or its derivatives, squalane, isoeicosane, naphthalene oil, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polybutenes, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polyisobutenes, and hydrogenated polydecenes; decene / butene copolymers, polybutene / polyisobutene copolymers, or mixtures thereof.
[0008]
8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the volatile oil is chosen from a silicone oil, a hydrocarbon oil, preferably apolar, or a fluorinated oil, or mixtures thereof, and preferably from oils volatile silicone.
[0009]
9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of apolar oil, hydrocarbon or silicone, volatile or not varies from 5 to 40% by weight, preferably from 8 to 30% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition; the composition comprising not more than 20% by weight of the lipophilic phase of apolar hydrocarbon compound of synthetic origin.
[0010]
10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one solid compound whose melting temperature is between 30 ° C and 100 ° C, selected from: * polar hydrocarbon compounds such as the following pasty compounds: lanolin and its derivatives, polyol ethers chosen from pentaerythritol and polyalkylene glycol ethers, fatty alcohol and sugar ethers, and mixtures thereof, liposoluble polyethers resulting from polyetherification. between one or more C 2 -C 10 diols, - esters and polyesters, such as esters of glycerol oligomers, homopolymers of vinyl ester having C 8 -C 30 alkyl groups, arachidyl propionate, triglycerides of fatty acids and their derivatives, vegetable oils totally or partially hydrogenated phytosterol esters, pentaerythritol esters, diol dimer esters and dimer diaci of, where appropriate, esterified on their function (s) alcohol (s) or acid (s) free (s) by acid radicals or alcohols; esters of hydrogenated castor oil, butters of vegetable origin; and / or their mixtures. * apolar hydrocarbon compounds such as microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite, polyethylene waxes, polymethylene waxes, microwaxes and mixtures thereof; * polar hydrocarbon compounds such as ester waxes and alcoholic waxes, and mixtures thereof
[0011]
11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of solid compound varies from 0.15 to 20% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
[0012]
12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises at least one emulsifying surfactant system is chosen from fatty acid esters of polyols such as mono-, di-, tri- or sesqui-oleates. or sorbitol or glycerol stearates, glycerol or polyethylene glycol laurates, silicone surfactants such as alkyl or alkoxy dimethicone copolyols having a pendant alkyl or alkoxy chain or a silicone backbone having, for example, from 6 to 22 carbon atoms; polymers of the polyoxyalkyl glycol glycol fatty acid ester type.
[0013]
13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the emulsifying surfactant system further comprises at least one co-surfactant selected from alkyl esters of polyol, preferably from the esters of glycerol and / or sorbitan.
[0014]
14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of emulsifying surfactant system varies from 1 to 6% by weight, preferably from 2 to 6% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
[0015]
15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content in the aqueous phase varies from 15 to 70% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, preferably from 15 to 55% by weight relative to weight of the composition.
[0016]
16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the lipophilic phase content varies from 30 to 85% by weight, more particularly from 40 to 85% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
[0017]
17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one dyestuff.
[0018]
18. Composition according to the preceding claim characterized in that it is in a fluid form.
[0019]
19. A method of treating the lips in which is applied to the lips the composition according to any one of the preceding claims.

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FR2964873A1|2012-03-23|Cosmetic process for care of lips, comprises applying composition comprising water, alkylcellulose, preferably ethylcellulose, active agent e.g. moisturizing agents, non-volatile oil and non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, on lips

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FR3049457A1|2017-10-06|AQUEOUS EMULSION COMPRISING A SILICONE DENDRITIC POLYMER, A SILICONE GUM AND A SEMI-CRYSTALLINE POLYMER, AND A METHOD OF TREATING THE LIP USING THE SAME

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FR3048178A1|2017-09-01|COMPOSITION COMPRISING POLYSACCHARIDE ALKYL ETHER AND INCOMPATIBLE OILS AND PROCESS FOR CARRYING OUT THE SAME

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FR3045364A1|2017-06-23|COMPOSITION COMPRISING ALKYLCELLULOSE, INCOMPATIBLE HYDROCARBON AND SILICONE OILS, A WAX, AND METHOD FOR CARRYING OUT THE SAME

同族专利:

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公开号 | 公开日

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RU2672915C2|2018-11-21|

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JP6669654B2|2020-03-18|

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US9789035B2|2017-10-17|

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CN105848627A|2016-08-10|

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FR3015277B1|2019-11-22|

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RU2016129452A|2018-01-30|

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US20160310374A1|2016-10-27|

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JP2017500359A|2017-01-05|

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BR112016012415B1|2020-11-03|

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EP3086758A1|2016-11-02|

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WO2015097185A1|2015-07-02|

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US8894982B2|2010-11-23|2014-11-25|Elc Management, Llc|Moisturizing compositions for lip|CN105854965B|2016-06-12|2019-04-12|北京天天极因科技有限公司|A kind of oil phase composition generating Water-In-Oil drop for centrifugal process|

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KR20210032142A|2019-09-16|2021-03-24|아모레퍼시픽|Cosmetic composition comprising solubilized pigment and method for preparing the same|

法律状态:
2015-11-10| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 3 |

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2016-11-11| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 4 |

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2017-11-13| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 5 |

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2018-11-20| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 6 |

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2019-11-15| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 7 |

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2020-11-12| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 8 |

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2021-11-15| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 9 |

优先权:

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申请号 | 申请日 | 专利标题

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FR1363424|2013-12-23|

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FR1363424A|FR3015277B1|2013-12-23|2013-12-23|COMPOSITION FOR INVERSE EMULSION LIP COMPRISING A HUMICANT AGENT, PROCESSING METHOD EMPLOYING THE SAME|FR1363424A| FR3015277B1|2013-12-23|2013-12-23|COMPOSITION FOR INVERSE EMULSION LIP COMPRISING A HUMICANT AGENT, PROCESSING METHOD EMPLOYING THE SAME|

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JP2016542177A| JP6669654B2|2013-12-23|2014-12-22|Lip composition in the form of a reverse emulsion containing a humectant, and a method of treatment using the same|

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RU2016129452A| RU2672915C2|2013-12-23|2014-12-22|Lip composition in form of inverse emulsion comprising humectant, and lip treatment process using same|

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BR112016012415-4A| BR112016012415B1|2013-12-23|2014-12-22|cosmetic makeup and lip treatment process|

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EP14816309.0A| EP3086758A1|2013-12-23|2014-12-22|Lip composition in the form of an inverse emulsion comprising a humectant, and treatment process using the same|

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PCT/EP2014/079073| WO2015097185A1|2013-12-23|2014-12-22|Lip composition in the form of an inverse emulsion comprising a humectant, and treatment process using the same|

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US15/102,468| US9789035B2|2013-12-23|2014-12-22|Lip composition in the form of an inverse emulsion comprising a humectant, and treatment process using the same|

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CN201480070574.4A| CN105848627A|2013-12-23|2014-12-22|Lip composition in the form of an inverse emulsion comprising a humectant, and treatment process using the same|