AQUEOUS COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING ALKYLCELLULOSE, NON-VOLATILE OILS, A HYDROPHILIC GELIFYING P

专利摘要:
The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of an emulsion of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising: (A) at least 5% by weight of water; (B) at least 4% by weight of (C2-C6) alkyl cellulose; (C) at least one hydrophilic gelling agent selected from polymers of natural origin; (D) at least one C2-C8 polyol, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched; (E) at least one first non-volatile hydrocarbon oil selected from: - C10-C26 alcohols; mono-, di- and tri-esters of a C2-C8 (poly) carboxylic acid and a C2-C8 alcohol; esters of a C2-C8 polyol and of one or more C2-C8 carboxylic acids; and (F) at least one second non-volatile oil chosen from silicone and / or fluorinated oils or hydrocarbon oils different from the first oils (E). It also relates to a process for makeup and / or care of the lips in which the above-mentioned composition is applied.
公开号:FR3015249A1
申请号:FR1363420
申请日:2013-12-23
公开日:2015-06-26
发明作者:Aurore Durtschi；Sylvie Guillard；Frederic Auguste；Stephane Arditty
申请人:LOreal SA；
IPC主号:

专利说明:

[0001] TECHNICAL COMPOSITION COMPRISING ALKYLCELLULOSE, NON-VOLATILE OILS, A HYDROPHILIC GELIFYING POLYMER AND A POLYOL The present invention aims to provide cosmetic compositions, in particular dedicated to the makeup and / or care of keratin materials. These compositions are in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion and comprise alkylcellulose, at least one polyol, in particular glycerine, and a polymer of natural origin as a gelling agent, in combination with oils defined. These compositions are capable of providing a deposit, in particular of makeup, having good cosmetic properties, in particular in terms of strength, gloss, comfort and non-stickiness. In general, the cosmetic compositions must impart an aesthetic effect when applied to the skin and / or the lips, and maintain this aesthetic effect over time. In fact, obtaining an aesthetic effect, after the application of a cosmetic composition, results from a set of cosmetic properties intrinsic to the composition that express themselves in terms of performance such as comfort at application. and at the port (in particular non-sticky), the homogeneity, the non-transfer and / or the holding of the deposit in time and / or the brightness of the deposit. In particular, obtaining a homogeneous and stable composition over time, as well as improving the hold and / or the non-transfer over time of the cosmetic products, once applied to the skin or the lips, falls within a permanent concern of the formulators. These objectives are particularly true in the field of makeup and in particular in the field of lipstick, stick or lip gloss, and other skin care products and / or lips. Ethylcellulose is known for its ability, when solubilized in sufficient quantity in cosmetic and / or therapeutic compositions, to allow adhesion of the resulting films. Ethylcellulose, and generally alkylcelluloses (with an alkyl group comprising from 2 to 6 carbon atoms), unfortunately (has) a limited solubility in most of the solvents commonly used in cosmetic and / or dermatological formulations . In general, monoalcohols having 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, butanol, methanol or isopropanol, are preferred for solubilizing sufficient quantities of ethylcellulose in cosmetic compositions or pharmaceuticals. The evaporation of C2-C5 monoalcohols leads, after application of the corresponding cosmetic composition to the skin or the lips, on the one hand to a concentration of the deposit and, on the other hand, to the formation of a coating. surface of the skin or lips with good behavior. For example, the document WO 96/36310 proposes cosmetic compositions comprising especially ethylcellulose solubilized in ethyl alcohol (solvents "SDA 38B-190" or "SDA 40B-190"). However, these volatile mono-alcohols have the disadvantage of being potentially irritating to the skin and / or the lips, and therefore can be detrimental during repeated use on the skin. However, when one is free from the presence of these compounds, especially such as ethanol, this can be detrimental in terms of comfort and feeling of stickiness of the resulting deposit. It has recently been proposed, for example in application FR 2964868, cosmetic compositions in emulsion form, comprising water and non-volatile oils, silicone and / or hydrocarbon, and ethylcellulose. Such compositions have the advantages of being homogeneous, stable over time (for example, there is no evidence of exudation or phase shift, especially after 1 month at room temperature). They are easy to apply on the skin and / or the lips and bring an unusual feeling of freshness for this type of compositions, in particular when they are intended to be applied to the lips. The deposit obtained is moreover, thin and light, homogeneous, with good properties in terms of gloss, absence or limitation of tack. However, it is desirable to further increase the intensity of the coloration of the deposit obtained, without the need to apply several layers of composition. However, it has not been possible so far to increase the pigment content without losing some of the advantages of these compositions, in particular their stability, or the absence of tackiness of the deposit. It is also desired to improve the texture of these compositions and in particular to make them more creamy, in order to increase the comfort of the deposit, without degrading their advantageous properties detailed above. The present invention is specifically intended to meet these needs. Thus, according to a first of its aspects, the subject of the present invention is a cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising: (A) at least 5% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition ; (B) at least 4% by weight of alkylcellulose, the alkyl residue of which is between 2 and 6 carbon atoms; (C) at least one hydrophilic gelling agent chosen from polymers of natural origin, optionally modified; (D) at least one C2-C8 polyol, preferably C3-C6, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, comprising from 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups, and preferably glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diglycerine, and mixtures thereof, (E) at least one first non-volatile hydrocarbon oil selected from: - C 10 -C 26 alcohols, preferably monoalcohols; monoesters, diesters, triesters, optionally hydroxyls, of a C2-C8 mono- or polycarboxylic acid and of a C2-C8 alcohol, optionally hydroxyl; esters of a C2-C8 polyol and of one or more C2-C8 carboxylic acids; and (F) at least one second non-volatile oil chosen from silicone and / or fluorinated oils or hydrocarbon oils different from the first oils (E). As is apparent from the example presented below, the inventors have surprisingly discovered that an oil-in-water emulsion comprising the combination of ethylcellulose with a particular oily system, associated with glycerin and a hydrophilic gelling agent chosen from polymers of natural origin, whether modified or not, makes it possible to obtain a homogeneous and stable composition whose texture is much more creamy and which makes it possible to access deposits whose color intensity is visibly improved, with a satisfactory gloss.
[0002] It was also found that the composition still applied as easily and allowed to lead to makeup with precise contours of the lips. In addition, the deposit obtained remains fine, homogeneous, with this original impression of freshness to the application. The deposit has a good performance and, surprisingly, provides a feeling of comfort extended over time.
[0003] The composition according to the invention is more particularly in liquid form. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "liquid" (or "fluid") is intended to mean a composition capable of flowing under its own weight, at ambient temperature (at 20 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm). Hg), as opposed to solid. In particular, the term "liquid" means a fluid texture, that is to say that can in particular be in creamy or pasty form. Protocol for the measurement of viscosity: The measurement of the viscosity is generally carried out at 20 ° C, using a RHEOMAT RM 180 viscometer equipped with a mobile No. 2, No. 3 or No. 4, the measurement being performed after 10 minutes of rotation of the mobile within the composition (time at which a stabilization of the viscosity and the speed of rotation of the mobile) is observed, at a shear of 200 revolutions / min (rpm). Preferably, the composition according to the invention may have at 25 ° C. a viscosity of between 0.2 and 25 Pa.s, preferably of between 1 and 20 Pa.s. Preferably, the viscosity at 25 ° C. of a composition according to the invention may be between 2 and 17 Pa.s. In particular, the viscosity at 25 ° C of a composition according to the invention may be between 0.2 Pa.s (mobile 2) and 25 Pa.s (mobile 4), preferably between 1 Pa.s (mobile 2) at 17 Pa.s (mobile 4), and better between 1 Pa.s (mobile 2) to 12 Pa.s (mobile 4). As indicated above, the composition according to the invention is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is a lipstick, in particular a liquid, or a gloss for the lips.
[0004] The compositions according to the invention may especially be in the form of gloss, dedicated to the makeup and / or care of keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or lips, and better lips. According to another of its aspects, the subject of the present application is a cosmetic process for makeup and / or care of keratinous substances, in particular of the lips and / or of the skin, and better of the lips, comprising at least one step consisting in applying on said keratinous materials at least one composition as defined above.
[0005] ETHYLCELLULOSE A composition according to the invention comprises at least alkylcellulose whose alkyl residue comprises between 2 and 6 carbon atoms, preferably between 2 and 3 carbon atoms, and better still a composition according to the invention comprises ethylcellulose . According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the alkylcellulose (preferably whose alkyl residue comprises between 2 and 6 carbon atoms, preferably ethylcellulose) may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content (dry matter). ranging from 1 to 60% by weight. In a particularly preferred manner, the composition according to the invention may comprise from 4 to 50% by weight of dry matter of alkylcellulose (preferably of which the alkyl residue comprises between 2 and 6 carbon atoms, preferably of ethylcellulose), of more preferably from 5 to 30% by weight, and still more preferably from 5 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition. The alkylcellulose is a cellulose alkyl ether comprising a chain consisting of 3-anhydroglucose units linked together by acetal bonds, each anhydroglucose unit having three replaceable hydroxyl groups, all or part of these hydroxyl groups being able to react according to following reaction: RONa + C2H5C1 ROC2H5 + NaCl, where R represents a cellulose radical Advantageously, the alkylcellulose may be chosen from ethylcellulose and propylcellulose According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the alkylcellulose may be 1 ethylcellulose This is an ethyl cellulose ether.
[0006] The total substitution of the three hydroxyl groups would lead for each anhydroglucose unit to a degree of substitution of 3, in other words to an alkoxy content of 54.88%. The ethylcellulose polymers used in a cosmetic composition according to the invention are preferably polymers having a degree of substitution with ethoxy groups ranging from 2.5 to 2.6 per anhydroglucose unit, that is to say comprising an ethoxy content ranging from at 50%. According to a preferred embodiment, the alkylcellulose (preferably ethylcellulose) may be used in a composition of the invention in the form of particles dispersed in an aqueous phase, like a latex-type dispersion or pseudolatex. The techniques for preparing these latex dispersions are well known to those skilled in the art. Particularly suitable as the aqueous dispersion of ethylcellulose, the product marketed by FMC Biopolymer under the name "AQUACOAT ECD-30", which consists of a dispersion of ethylcellulose at a rate of about 26.2% by weight in the water and stabilized with sodium lauryl sulfate and cetyl alcohol. According to a particular embodiment, the aqueous dispersion of ethylcellulose, in particular the product "AQUACOAT ECD", can be used in a proportion of 10 to 90% by weight, in particular 15 to 60% by weight, of preferably from 20 to 50% by weight of ethylcellulose dispersion, relative to the total weight of the composition. PHYSIOLOGICALLY ACCEPTABLE MEDIUM In addition to the compounds indicated above, the composition according to the invention comprises a physiologically acceptable medium. By "physiologically acceptable medium" is meant a medium which is particularly suitable for the application of a composition of the invention to keratinous substances, in particular the skin and / or the lips, such as water and the different oils. of those indicated above or organic solvents commonly used in cosmetic compositions. The physiologically acceptable medium (tolerability, toxicology and acceptable touch) is generally adapted to the nature of the medium to which the composition is to be applied, as well as to the appearance under which the composition is to be packaged. FIRST NON-VOLATILE OILS (E) As indicated previously, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one particular non-volatile hydrocarbon oil. By "non-volatile" is meant an oil whose vapor pressure at 25 ° C. and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and less than 0.02 mm Hg (2.66 Pa) and better still less than 10 -3 mm. Hg (0.13 Pa).
[0007] The latter is chosen from: - alcohols, preferably monoalcohols; More particularly, the C 10 -C 26 alcohols are saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched, and comprise from 10 to 26 carbon atoms.
[0008] Preferably, the C 10 -C 26 alcohols are fatty alcohols, preferably branched when they comprise at least 16 carbon atoms. As examples of fatty alcohols that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of linear or branched fatty alcohols of synthetic origin, or else natural, for example alcohols derived from vegetable matter (copra, palm kernel, palm ...) or animal (tallow ..). Of course, other long-chain alcohols may also be used, such as, for example, ether-alcohols or even so-called Guerbet alcohols. Finally, it is also possible to use certain longer or shorter cuts of alcohols of natural origin, such as for example coco (C12 to C16) or tallow (C16 to C18) or diol or cholesterol type compounds. It is preferable to use a fatty alcohol comprising from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms. As particular examples of fatty alcohols that may be used as preferred, mention may be made especially of lauryl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol and isoketyl alcohol. octyldodecanol and their mixtures. According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the alcohol is chosen from octyldodecanol. monoesters, diesters, triesters, optionally hydroxylated, of a mono or carboxylic acid C -C 8 acid and a C -C 8 alcohol. In particular: monoesters of a C2-C8 carboxylic acid and of a C2-C8 alcohol, optionally hydroxylated, diesters of a C2-C8 dicarboxylic acid and of a C2-C8 alcohol, optionally hydroxyl; such as diisopropyl adipate, 2-diethylhexyl adipate, dibutyl adipate, or diisostearyl adipate, 2-diethylhexyl succinate, triesters of a C2-C8 triacidecarboxylic acid and a C2 alcohol. -C8, optionally hydroxylated, such as esters of citric acid, such as trioctyl citrate, triethyl citrate, acetyl tributyl citrate, tributyl citrate, acetyl tributyl citrate, esters of a ol ol C -C and one or more C 8 -C 8 carboxylic acids, such as glycol and monoacid diesters, such as neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, or glycol and monoacid triesters such as triacetin.
[0009] Preferably, the first oil is chosen from C 10 -C 25 alcohols, more particularly monoalcohols, and preferably octyldodecanol. According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the content of first non-volatile hydrocarbon oil (s) (E) represents from 5% to 75% by weight, in particular from 10% to 50% by weight, preferably 20 to 45% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. SECOND NON-VOLATILE OILS (F) The composition according to the invention comprises at least one second non-volatile oil chosen from nonvolatile silicone oils and / or volatile, hydrocarbon oils different from the aforementioned oils (E). The non-volatile oil or oils are more particularly chosen from non-volatile silicone oils, phenylated or otherwise; non-volatile fluorinated oils; non-volatile, nonpolar or polar hydrocarbon oils different from the non-volatile oils (E) mentioned above; or their mixtures. Silicone oils By "silicone oil" is meant an oil containing at least one silicon atom, and in particular containing Si-O groups. Non-phenylated Non-volatile Silicone Oils The term "non-phenyl silicone oil" refers to a silicone oil having no phenyl substituent.
[0010] Representative examples of such non-volatile, non-phenolic silicone oils which may be mentioned include polydimethylsiloxanes; alkyldimethicones; vinylmethylmethicones; and also silicones modified with aliphatic groups and / or with functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and / or amine groups.
[0011] Note that "dimethicone" (INCI name) corresponds to a polydimethylsiloxane (chemical name). The non-phenylated non-volatile silicone oil is preferably chosen from non-volatile dimethicone oils. In particular, these oils may be chosen from the following non-volatile oils: polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs), PDMSs comprising aliphatic groups, in particular alkyl, or alkoxy groups, which are pendant and / or at the end of the silicone chain ; these groups each comprising from 2 to 24 carbon atoms. By way of example, mention may be made of cetyldimethicone sold under the commercial reference ABIL WAX 9801 from Evonik Goldschmidt, PDMSs comprising aliphatic groups, or functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and / or amine groups, polyalkylmethylsiloxanes substituted with functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and / or amine groups, polysiloxanes modified with fatty acids, fatty alcohols or polyoxyalkylenes, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, these non-volatile, non-phenyl silicone oils are chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes; alkyldimethicones and also PDMSs comprising aliphatic groups, in particular C 2 -C 24 alkyl, and / or functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and / or amine groups. The non-phenyl silicone oil may be chosen in particular from silicones of formula (I): ## STR2 ## wherein R 1, R 2 R5 and R6 are, together or separately, an alkyl radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, R3 and R4 are, together or separately, an alkyl radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a vinyl radical, an amine radical or a hydroxyl radical, X is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical or an amine radical, n and p are integers chosen so as to have a fluid compound, in particular having a viscosity at 25 ° C. is between 9 centistokes (cSt) (9 x 10-6 m2 / s) and 800,000 cSt. As non-phenylated non-volatile silicone oils which may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of those for which: the substituents R 1 to R 6 and X represent a methyl group, and p and n are such that the viscosity 500 000 cSt, for example the product marketed under the name SE30 by the company General Electric, the product marketed under the name AK 500000 by Wacker, the product marketed under the name Mirasil DM 500 000 by the company Bluestar, and the product sold under the name Dow Corning 200 Fluid 500,000 cSt by Dow Corning, - substituents R1 to R6 and X are methyl, and p and n are such that the viscosity is 60,000 cSt for example the product marketed under the name Dow Corning 200 Fluid 60000 CS by Dow Corning, and the product marketed under the name Wacker Belsil DM 60 000 by the company Wacker, - substituents R1 to R6 and X re have a methyl group, and p and n are such that the viscosity is 100 cSt or 350 cSt, for example the products marketed respectively under the names Belsil DM100, Dow Corning 200 Fluid 350 CS, by Dow Corning, the substituents R 1 to R 6 represent a methyl group, the X group represents a hydroxyl group, and n and p are such that the viscosity is 700 cSt, for example the product marketed under the name Baysilone Fluid T0.7 by the company Momentive. Nonvolatile Phenyl Silicone Oils The term "phenyl silicone oil" refers to a silicone oil having at least one phenyl substituent.
[0012] These non-volatile phenyl silicone oils may be chosen from those which also have at least one dimethicone fragment, or from those which do not have one. The term "dimethicone fragment" denotes a divalent siloxane group whose silicon atom bears two methyl radicals, this group not being at the ends of the molecule. It can be represented by the following formula: - (Si (CH 3) 2 - 25 0) -. The nonvolatile phenyl silicone oil may thus be chosen from: a) phenyl silicone oils with or without a dimethicone fragment corresponding to the following formula (I): ## STR2 ## RRRR Si R (I) in which the monovalent or divalent R groups represent, independently of one another, methyl or phenyl, provided that at least one R is phenyl. Preferably, in this formula, the phenyl silicone oil comprises at least three phenyl groups, for example at least four, at least five or at least six. b) the phenyl silicone oils with or without a dimethicone fragment corresponding to the following formula (2): RRR R-Si-O Si-O-Si-RRRR (II) in which the R groups represent, independently of one another, methyl or phenyl, provided that at least one R is phenyl. Preferably, in this formula, the compound of formula (II) comprises at least three phenyl groups, for example at least four or at least five. Mixtures of different silicone phenyl compounds previously described can be used. Examples which may be mentioned include mixtures of triphenyl-, tetraphenyl- or pentaphenyl-organopolysiloxanes. Among the compounds of formula (II), mention may be made more particularly of phenylated silicone oils having no dimethicone fragment corresponding to formula (II) in which at least 4 or at least 5 R radicals represent a phenyl radical, the radicals remaining representing methyl. Such nonvolatile phenyl silicone oils are preferably trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane or tetramethyltetraphenyltrisiloxane. They are in particular marketed by Dow Corning under the reference PH-1555 HRI or Dow Corning 555 Cosmetic Fluid (chemical name: 1,3,5-trimethyl-1,1,1,5,5-pentaphenyltrisiloxane; INCI name: trimethyl- pentaphenyltrisiloxane), or tetramethyltetraphenyltrisiloxane sold under the reference Dow Corning 554 Cosmetic Fluid by Dow Corning can also be used.
[0013] They correspond in particular to the following formulas (III), (III '): Ph Ph Ph Me Ph Me Me-Si-O-Si-O-Si-Me Ph-Si-O-Si-O-Si-Ph 1 1 Ph Ph (III) Me Ph Me (III ') in which Me is methyl, Ph is phenyl. c) the phenyl silicone oils having at least one dimethicone fragment corresponding to the following formula (IV): embedded image in which Me represents methyl, y is between 1 and 1000 and X represents -CH 2 -CH (CH3) (Ph). d) the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to formula (V) below, and mixtures thereof: ## STR2 ## wherein R 1 is SiO 2 Si-R 7 R 6 m (V) in which: R 1 to R 10, independently of one another, are saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C 1 -C 30 hydrocarbon radicals, - m, n, p and q are, independently of each other, integers between 0 and 900, provided that the sum m + n + q is different from 0. Preferably, the sum m + n + q is between 1 and 100. Advantageously the sum m + n + p + q is between 1 and 900 and preferably between 1 and 800. Preferably, q is equal to 0.
[0014] More particularly, R1 to R10, independently of each other, represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, C1-C30 hydrocarbon radical, and in particular a hydrocarbon radical, preferably saturated, C1-C20, in particular Ci-Cis, or a C6-C14 aryl radical and in particular C10-C13, monocyclic or polycyclic, or an aralkyl radical preferably whose alkyl part is C 1 -C 3. Preferably, R 1 to R 10 may each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical, or alternatively a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical. R1 to R10 may in particular be identical, and may furthermore be a methyl radical.
[0015] According to a first, more particular embodiment of formula (V), mention may be made of: phenyl silicone oils with or without at least one dimethicone fragment corresponding to formula (VI) below, and mixtures thereof: H3C Si-O 2 Si-O O Si (CH 3) 3 Si-CH 3 R 6 12 3 Si-O R 4 pm (VI) in which: R 1 to R 6, independently of one another, are hydrocarbon radicals in Ci Saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched, an aryl radical, preferably C 6 -C 14, or an aralkyl radical whose alkyl part is C 1 -C 3). m, n and p are, independently of each other, integers between 0 and 100, provided that the sum n + m is between 1 and 100. Preferably, R1 to R6, independently of one of the further represent a hydrocarbon radical, preferably C 1 -C 20 alkyl, in particular C 1 -C 18 alkyl, or a monocyclic (preferably C 6) or polycyclic C 6 -C 14 aryl radical, and in particular C 10 -C 13, or an aralkyl radical (preferably the aryl part is C 6, the alkyl part is C 1 -C 3). Preferably, R 1 to R 6 may each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical, or alternatively a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical. R1 to R6 may in particular be identical, and may furthermore be a methyl radical. Preferably, m = 1 or 2 or 3, and / or n = 0 and / or p = 0 or 1 may be applied, in formula (VI).
[0016] According to a particular embodiment, the non-volatile phenyl silicone oil is chosen from phenyl silicone oils having at least one dimethicone fragment. Preferably, such oils correspond to compounds of formula (VI) in which: A) m = 0 and n and p are independently of one another, integers between 1 and 100. Preferably R1 to R6 are methyl radicals. According to this embodiment, the silicone oil is preferably chosen from a diphenyldimethicone such as KF-54 from Shin Etsu (400 cSt), KF54HV from Shin Etsu (5000 cSt), KF-50-300CS from Shin Etsu (300 cSt) ), KF-53 from Shin Etsu (175cSt), KF-50-100CS from Shin Etsu (100 cSt).
[0017] B) p is between 1 and 100, the sum n + m is between 1 and 100, and n = 0. These phenyl silicone oils having or not at least one dimethicone fragment corresponding more particularly to the formula (VII) below: ## STR2 ## in which Me is 0 II Ph Me (VII ) and Ph is phenyl, OR 'represents a group -OSiMe3 and p is 0 or is between 1 and 1000, and m is between 1 and 1000. In particular, m and p are such that the compound (VII) is a non-volatile oil. According to a first embodiment of non-volatile phenyl silicone having at least one dimethicone fragment, p is between 1 and 1000. m is more particularly such that the compound (VII) is a non-volatile oil. It can be used, for example, trimethyl siloxyphenyldimethicone, marketed in particular under the reference Belsil PDM 1000 by the company Wacker.
[0018] According to a second embodiment of nonvolatile phenyl silicone having no dimethicone fragment, p is equal to 0. m is between 1 and 1000, and in particular is such that the compound (VII) is a non-volatile oil. can be used, for example, phenyltrimethylsiloxytrisiloxane, sold in particular under the reference Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid (DC556). ii) nonvolatile phenyl silicone oils having no dimethicone moiety corresponding to formula (VIII) below, and mixtures thereof: RR H3C-Si 0 SiO Si-O Si-CH 3 ROR Si ( CH 3) 3 m in which: R, independently of one another, are saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C1-C30 hydrocarbon radicals, preferably R is a C1-C30 alkyl radical, an aryl radical, preferably C6-C14, or an aralkyl radical whose alkyl part is C1-C3). m and n are, independently of one another, integers between 0 and 100, provided that the sum n + m is between 1 and 100. (VIII) Preferably, R, independently of one of the other, represent a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, preferably saturated, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 30 hydrocarbon radical, and in particular a C 1 -C 20, especially C 1 -C 10, and especially C 4 -C 10, hydrocarbon-based, preferably saturated, hydrocarbon-based radical; a monocyclic or polycyclic C 6 -C 14 aryl radical and in particular a C 10 -C 13 aryl radical, or an aralkyl radical, preferably the aryl part is C 6 and the alkyl part is C 1 -C 3). Preferably, the R may each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical, or alternatively a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical.
[0019] The radicals R may in particular be identical, and furthermore may be a methyl radical. Preferably, m = 1 or 2 or 3, and / or n = 0 and / or p = 0 or 1 may be applied in formula (VIII). According to a preferred embodiment, n is an integer between 0 and 100 and m is an integer between 1 and 100, provided that the sum n + m is between 1 and 100, in formula (VIII). Preferably R is a methyl radical. According to one embodiment, a phenyl silicone oil of formula (VIII) having a viscosity at 25 ° C of between 5 and 1500 mm 2 / s (i.e., from 5 to 1500 cSt), and preferably having a viscosity of between 5 and 1000 mm 2 / s (i.e. 5 to 1000 cSt) can be used. According to this embodiment, the nonvolatile silicone phenylated oil is preferably chosen from phenyltrimethicones (when n = 0) such as DC556 from Dow Corning (22.5 cSt), or from diphenylsiloxyphenyltrimethicone oil (when m and n are between 1 and 100) such as KF56 A from Shin Etsu, Silbione 70663V30 from Rhône-Poulenc (28 cSt). Values in parentheses represent viscosities at 25 ° C. (e) phenyl silicone oils with or without at least one dimethicone moiety corresponding to the following formula, and mixtures thereof R1 75/1 X - O - Si - O Si - X R2 R6 R2 0 - SiR3 R p (IX) in which: R1, R2, R5 and R6 are, identical or different, an alkyl radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, R3 and R4 are, identical or different, an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; or an aryl (preferably C 6 -C 14) radical, provided that at least one of R 3 and R 4 is a phenyl radical, X is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical or a vinyl radical, n and p being an integer greater than or equal to 1, chosen so as to give the oil a weight average molecular weight of less than 200 000 g / mol, preferably less than 150 000 g / mol and more preferably less than 100,000 g / mol. f) and a mixture thereof. Non-volatile fluorinated oils By "fluorinated oil" is meant an oil containing at least one fluorine atom. By way of example of fluorinated oils, mention may be made of fluorosilicone oils, fluorinated polyethers and fluorinated silicones, especially as described in document EP-A-847752 and perfluorinated compounds. By perfluorinated compounds is meant according to the invention compounds of which all the hydrogen atoms have been substituted by fluorine atoms. According to a preferred embodiment, the fluorinated oil is chosen from perfluorinated oils. As an example of perfluorinated oils, mention may be made of perfluorodecalin and perfluoperhydrophenanthrene. According to a preferred embodiment, the fluorinated oil is chosen from perfluoperhydrophenanthrenes, and in particular Fiflow® products marketed by the company Créations Couleurs. In particular, it is possible to use the fluorinated oil whose INCI name is perfluoperhydrophenanthrene, sold under the reference FIFLOW 220 by the company F2 Chemicals. Polarized non-volatile hydrocarbon oils "Hydrocarbon oil" means an oil formed essentially or even consisting of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly oxygen, nitrogen, and non-carbon atoms. atom of silicon or fluorine. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups. Preferably, the hydrocarbon oil is free of fluorine in addition to silicon; heteroatoms such as N, Si and P. The hydrocarbon oil is therefore distinct from a silicone oil and a fluorinated oil. In the present case, the nonvolatile hydrocarbon oil comprises at least one oxygen atom. In particular, this non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, which is different from the non-volatile hydrocarbon oils (E), is chosen from ester oils having at least 18 carbon atoms, in particular having from 18 to 70 carbon atoms, the oils comprising at least one carbonate function, their mixtures.
[0020] As regards the ester oils having at least 18 carbon atoms, mention may be made of mono-, di- or tri-esters. The ester oils may be hydroxylated or not. Thus, the non-volatile ester oil suitable for carrying out the invention may be chosen from: Monoesters comprising at least 18 carbon atoms, in particular comprising between 18 and 40 carbon atoms in total, in particular monoesters, of formula R 1 COROR 2 in which R 1 represents the residue of a linear or branched or aromatic fatty acid having from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, saturated or unsaturated, and R 2 represents a particularly branched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, carbon provided that R1 + R2 is 18, such as, for example, purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, octyledodecyl neopentanoate, 2-octyl dodecyl stearate, 2-octyl dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-octyl dodecyl benzoate, alcohol octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates or polyalcohols, isopro myristate pylyle, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethyl hexyl palmitate, 2-hexyl decyl laurate, 2-octyl decyl palmitate, myristate 2 -octyldodécyle. Preferably, they are esters of formula R 1 COROR 2 in which R 1 represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R 2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, especially branched, containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms. , R1 and R2 being such that R1 + R2 is 18. Even more particularly, the ester comprises between 18 and 40 carbon atoms in total.
[0021] As preferred monoesters, mention may be made of isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate and / or octy1-2-docecyl neopentanoate; Fatty acid monoesters comprising at least 18 carbon atoms, and in particular having from 18 to 22 carbon atoms, and diols. In particular, it may be esters of lanolic acid, oleic acid, lauric acid, stearic acid, and diols, such as propylene glycol monoisostearate. Diesters comprising at least 18 carbon atoms, especially comprising between 18 and 60 carbon atoms in total, in particular between 18 and 50 carbon atoms in total. It is thus possible to use diesters of dicarboxylic acid and of monoalcohols, such as diisostearyl malate, or diesters of glycol and monocarboxylic acids, such as neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol dioctanoate or diethylene glycol diisononanoate, or 2-polyglyceryl diisostearate (especially such as the compound sold under the commercial reference Dermol DGDIS by Alzo). Hydroxylated monoesters and diesters comprising at least 18 carbon atoms, preferably having a carbon number ranging from 18 to 70, such as polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate, isostearyl lactate, octylhydroxystearate, hydroxystearate; octyldodecyl, diisostearyl malate, glycerine stearate. The triesters comprising at least 35 carbon atoms, in particular comprising between 35 and 70 carbon atoms in total, in particular such as tri tries of carboxylic triacid, such as triisostearyl citrate, or tridecyl trimellitate, or triesters of glycol and of carboxylic monoacids such as polyglycerol triisostearate. Tetraesters comprising at least 35 carbon atoms, in particular having a total number of carbon ranging from 35 to 70, such as the tetraesters of penthaerythritol or of polyglycerol and of a monocarboxylic acid, for example such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, tetraisostearate pentaerythrityl, pentaerythrityl tetraisonanoate, glyceryl tri-2-tetradecanoate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate or pentaerythrityl tetra decyl-2 tetradecanoate. The polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and of diol, such as those described in Patent Application FR 0 853 634, such as in particular dilinoleic acid and 1,4-diol. butanediol. Mention may in particular be made of the polymer marketed by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H (INCI name: dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymer), or the copolymers of polyols and diacid dimers, and their esters, such as Hailucent ISDA. * The esters and polyesters of dimer diol and mono- or dicarboxylic acid, such as the esters of diol dimer and of fatty acid and the esters of diol dimer and of dimer dicarboxylic acid, in particular can be obtained from a dicarboxylic acid dimer derived in particular from the dimerization of an unsaturated fatty acid, especially of C 8 to C 34, in particular C 12 to C 22, in particular C 16 to C 20, and more particularly to C 18, such as the esters of dilinoleic diacids and of Dilinoleic diol dimers, for example such as those marketed by the company NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL under the trade name LUSPLAN DD-DA5® and DD-DA7®. The polyesters resulting from the esterification of at least one triglyceride of carboxylic acid (s) hydroxylated with an aliphatic monocarboxylic acid and with an optionally unsaturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acid, such as castor oil, succinic acid and isostearic acid sold under the reference Zénigloss by Zenitech. * Vegetable hydrocarbon oils such as triglycerides of fatty acids (liquid at room temperature), especially of fatty acids having from 7 to 40 carbon atoms, such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or jojoba oil, in particular, there may be mentioned saturated triglycerides such as caprylic / capric triglyceride and mixtures thereof, for example such as that marketed under the reference Myritol 318 from Cognis, glyceryl triheptanoate, glycerin trioctanoate, acid triglycerides, C18-36 such as those marketed under the reference DUB TGI 24 marketed by Stéarineries Dubois), and unsaturated triglycerides such as castor oil, olive oil, ximenia oil, pracaxi oil. Sucrose esters, preferably chosen from hydrocarbon esters of sucrose and of C 2 -C 6 carboxylic acid, in particular those chosen from mixtures of esters of acetic acid and isobutyric acid with sucrose, preferably saccharose di-acetate-hexa- (2-methyl-propanoate), in particular the compound whose INCI name is Sucrose Acetate Isobutyrate (in particular sold under the reference Sustane Saib Kosher Food Grade by the company Eastman Chemicals) and the INCI name compounds Sucrose Polyosoyate marketed under the reference Crodaderm S by Croda, Sucrose Polybénénate sold under the reference Crodaderm B by Croda, Sucrose Polycottonseedate sold under the reference Crodaderm C by Croda; and their mixtures. As regards the oils comprising at least one carbonate function, mention may be made especially of di-alkyl carbonates, the 2 alkyl chains possibly being identical or different, such as caprylyl carbonate sold under the name Cetiol CC®, by Cognis diethylhexyl carbonate, for example, sold under the reference Tegosoft DEC by Evonik-Goldschmidt Personal Care, and mixtures thereof.
[0022] Non-volatile non-volatile hydrocarbon oils The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one apolar non-volatile hydrocarbon oil. These oils can be of vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin. By "apolar oil" within the meaning of the present invention is meant an oil whose solubility parameter at 25 ° C, Sa, is equal to 0 (J / cm3) 1/4. The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters in the HANSEN three-dimensional solubility space are described in the article by C. M. Hansen: "The three dimensional solubility parameters" J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967). According to this Hansen space: - 8D characterizes the LONDON dispersion forces resulting from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular shocks; - 8p characterizes the DEBYE interaction forces between permanent dipoles as well as the KEESOM interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles; - Sh characterizes the specific interaction forces (hydrogen bond, acid / base, donor / acceptor type, etc.); and - 8a is determined by the equation: Sa = (S1) 2 8h2) 1/4. The parameters 8p, 811, 8D and Sa are expressed in (J / cm3) 1/4. By "hydrocarbon oil" is meant an oil formed essentially, or even constituted, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly of oxygen, nitrogen, and not containing a silicon atom or fluorine. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups. Preferably, the non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon oil may be chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin such as: paraffin oil or its derivatives, squalane, isoeicosane, naphthalene oil, polybutenes such as INDOPOL H-100 (molar mass or MW = 965 15 g / mol), INDOPOL H-300 (MW = 1340 g / mol), INDOPOL H -1500 (MW = 2160g / mol) marketed or manufactured by the company AMOCO, polyisobutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as Parleam® sold by the company Nippon Oil Fats, PANALANE H-300 E marketed or manufactured by the company AMOCO (MW = 1340 g / mol), the Viseal 20000 sold or manufactured by the company SYNTEAL (MW = 6000 g / mol), the REWOPAL PIB 1000 marketed or manufactured by WITCO (MW = 1000 g / mol), or still PARLEAM LITE marketed by NOF Corporation, - decene / butene copolymers, polyb copolymers urethane / polyisobutene, in particular Indopol L-14, polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes, such as PURESYN 10 (MW = 723 g / mol) and PURESYN 150 (MW = 9200 g / mol) marketed or manufactured by the company. MOBIL CHEMICALS company, or the PURESYN 6 marketed by EXXONMOBIL CHEMICAL), - and their mixtures. According to a first particular embodiment of the present invention, the second or non-volatile oils are chosen from phenylated nonvolatile silicone oils. Preferably, the phenyl silicone oil (s) are chosen from phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyldimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates and trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicones, and mixtures thereof. According to a preferred embodiment, the phenyl silicone oil may be chosen from trimethylsiloxyphenyldimethicones. According to a second particular embodiment of the present invention, the second or non-volatile oils are chosen from non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, different from the first oils (E). Preferably, the hydrocarbon-based oil or oils are chosen from apolar oils, in particular hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated poly (iso) butene. According to a third particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one second phenyl silicone oil and at least one hydrocarbon oil. More advantageously, the content of second non-volatile oils (F) represents from 5 to 75% by weight, in particular from 5 to 60% by weight, and more particularly from 10 to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight. of the composition. According to a particularly preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention may comprise a total content of non-volatile oils (that is to say all the non-volatile oils of the composition, whatever their nature) between 20 and 80% by weight, preferably between 40 and 75% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the non-volatile oils (that is to say all the non-volatile oils of the composition, whatever their nature) and the alkylcellulose are used in the composition according to the invention. in a weight ratio "non-volatile oil (s) / alkylcellulose" of between 0.3 and 20, preferably between 1 and 15, and better still between 5 and 10. VOLATILE ADDITIONAL OILS The composition according to the invention may in additionally include at least one additional volatile oil. Preferably, said volatile oil is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils, volatile silicone oils and / or volatile fluorinated oils. The additional volatile oil may especially be a silicone oil, a hydrocarbon oil, preferably apolar, or a fluorinated oil.
[0023] According to a first embodiment, the additional volatile oil is a silicone oil and can in particular be chosen from silicone oils having a flash point ranging from 40 ° C. to 102 ° C., preferably having a flash point greater than 55 ° C. and less than or equal to 95 ° C, and preferably ranging from 65 ° C to 95 ° C.
[0024] As additional volatile silicone oils that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of linear or cyclic silicones having a viscosity at room temperature of less than 8 centistokes (cSt) (8 × 10 -6 m 2 / s), and having, in particular, 2 to 10 silicon atoms, and in particular 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally containing alkyl or alkoxy groups having 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As the volatile silicone oil that may be used in the invention, mention may be made, in particular, of dimethicones of viscosity 5 and 6 cSt, octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
[0025] According to a second embodiment, the additional volatile oil is a fluorinated oil, such as nonafluoromethoxybutane or perfluoromethylcyclopentane, and mixtures thereof. According to a third embodiment, the additional volatile oil is a hydrocarbon oil, preferably apolar.
[0026] The additional apolar volatile hydrocarbon oil may have a flash point ranging from 40 ° C to 102 ° C, preferably from 40 ° C to 55 ° C, and preferably from 40 ° C to 50 ° C. The additional volatile hydrocarbon oil may in particular be chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof, and in particular: C8-C16 branched alkanes such as isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins) C8-C16, isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names of Isopars or permetyls; linear alkanes, for example such as n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97, as well as their mixtures, the undecane-tridecane mixture (Cetol UT), the mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of Application WO2008 / 155059 from Cognis and mixtures thereof. According to a particular embodiment, the additional volatile oil (s) can be present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 30% by weight, in particular from 0.5 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition. Advantageously, the composition contains less than 10% by weight of monoalcohols having 1 to 5 carbon atoms, preferably less than 5% by weight. According to one particular embodiment, the composition may be free of mono-alcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms. According to a preferred embodiment, the composition is free of additional volatile oil. HYDROPHILIC GELIFIFIERS The composition according to the invention comprises at least one hydrophilic gelling agent chosen from polymers of natural origin, optionally modified. The term "hydrophilic gelling agent" or "gelling polymer of the aqueous phase" as used herein means a polymer capable of gelling the aqueous phase of the compositions according to the invention.
[0027] The gelling polymer that can be used according to the invention can in particular be characterized by its capacity to form in water, beyond a certain concentration C *, a gel characterized by oscillatory rheology (la = 1 Hz) by a threshold of flow I, at least equal to 10 Pa. This concentration C * can vary widely depending on the nature of the gelling polymer considered. In particular, said polymer is chosen from: - galactomannans and their derivatives, such as carob gum, Fennugrec gum, cassia gum, guar gums and their derivatives.
[0028] As regards the guar gum derivatives, more particularly is meant the nonionic guar gums modified with C 1 -C 6 hydroxyalkyl groups. Among the hydroxyalkyl groups, mention may be made, by way of example, of the hydroxymethyl groups. hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl. These guar gums are well known in the state of the art and may, for example, be prepared by reacting corresponding alkene oxides, such as, for example, propylene oxides, with guar gum so as to obtain guar gum modified with hydroxypropyl groups. The level of hydroxyalkylation, which corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on the guar gum, preferably varies from 0.4 to 1.2. Such nonionic guar gums optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups are for example sold under the trade names Jaguar HP8, Jaguar HP60 and Jaguar HP120, Jaguar DC 293 and Jaguar HP 105 by the company Rhone-Poulenc (MEYHALL) or under the name GALACTASOL 4H4FD2 by the company AQUALON. It is also possible to use alkylguar ionic derivatives, and particularly hydroxypropylguar, modified with sodium methylcarboxylate groups (for example the product marketed under the reference Jaguar XC97-1 by Rhodia), guar hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride. , and their mixtures. biopolysaccharide gums of microbial origin, such as scleroglucan or xanthan gums. Xanthan gums are sold in particular under the names Keltrol, Keltrol T, Keltrol TF, Keltrol BT, Keltrol RD, Keltrol CG by Nutrasweet Kelco, or under the names Rhodicare S, Rhodicare H by Rhodia Chimie. gums derived from vegetable exudates such as the gums Arabica, Ghatti, Karaya, Tragacanth, Carrageenan, Agar and Carob; pectins, alginates, starches; - their mixtures. Preferably, the composition comprises at least one hydrophilic gelling agent chosen from guar gums and their derivatives, preferably chosen from guar gum, hydroxypropylguar, hydroxypropylguar modified with sodium methylcarboxylate groups and hydroxypropyl guar chloride. tri-methyl ammonium, xanthan gum, and mixtures thereof; preferably hydroxypropyl guar. According to a particularly advantageous embodiment of the invention, the hydrophilic gelling agent content represents from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to% by weight, and more particularly from 0.1 to 5% by weight. by weight, relative to the weight of the composition. According to another characteristic of the invention, the composition comprises at least one C2-C8 polyol, preferably C3-C6, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, comprising from 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups. The polyol is preferably chosen from glycerine, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and diglycerine, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the polyol content represents from 0.1 to 20% by weight. preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, and more particularly from 2 to 6% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition. SURFACTANTS The composition according to the invention may contain one or more surfactants, present for example in a content ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, or even from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably 1% by weight. at 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. A surfactant suitably chosen for obtaining an oil-in-water emulsion is preferably used. These surfactants may be chosen from nonionic, anionic, cationic, amphoteric surfactants and mixtures thereof, preferably nonionic surfactants. Reference can be made to "Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, KIRK30 OTHMER", Vol. 22, p. 333-432, 3rd edition, 1979, WILEY, for the definition of the properties and emulsifying functions of surfactants, in particular p. 347-377 of this reference, for anionic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants. According to a first embodiment, the composition comprises at least one hydrocarbon surfactant. Nonionic surfactants The nonionic surfactants may be chosen in particular from polyethylene oxide alkyl and polyalkyl esters, oxyalkylenated alcohols, poly (ethylene oxide) alkyl and polyalkyl ethers, polyoxyethylenated or unsaturated polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl esters, polyoxyethylenated or unsubstituted alkyl and polyalkyl ethers, alkyl and polyalkyl glycosides or polyglycosides, in particular alkyl and polyalkyl glucosides or polyglucosides, sucrose alkyl and polyalkyl esters, polyoxyethylenated or unsubstituted glycerol alkyl and polyalkyl esters, polyoxyethylenated or non-polyoxyethylated alkyl- and polyalkyl ether ethers and mixtures thereof. 1) Poly (ethylene oxide) alkyl and polyalkyl esters are preferably those having a number of ethylene oxide units (OE) of from 2 to 200. For example, stearate may be mentioned. 40E, stearate 50E, stearate 100E, laurate 20E, laurate 40E, distearate 150E. (2) Poly (ethylene oxide) alkyl and polyalkyl ethers are preferably those having a number of ethylene oxide units (OE) of from 2 to 200. For example, cetyl ether 23 OE, oleyl ether 50 OE, phytosterol 30E. (3) Oxylalkylenated alcohols, in particular oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated alcohols, are preferably used, for example, fatty alcohols comprising in particular at least 8 carbon atoms, and which may contain from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene units, in particular having 20 to 100 oxyethylene units; in particular fatty alcohols, especially C8-C24, and preferably C12-C18, ethoxylated such as ethoxylated stearyl alcohol with 10 oxyethylene units (CTFA name "Steareth-10"), ethoxylated stearyl alcohol with 20 units oxyethylene (CTFA name "Steareth-20"), such as BRU 78 marketed by UNIQEMA, stearyl alcohol ethoxylated with 100 oxyethylene units (CTFA name "Steareth-100"), ethoxylated ethoxylated alcohol with 30 oxyethylene units ( CTFA name "Ceteareth-30") and the mixture of C12-C15 fatty alcohols comprising 7 oxyethylene units (CTFA name "C1215 Pareth-7"), such as that sold under the name NEODOL 25-7® by Shell Chemicals; ethylene behenyl alcohol containing 100 oxyethylene units (CTFA name "beheneth-100") or in particular oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylene) alcohols having from 1 to 15 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene units, in particular fatty alcohols, C8-C24, and preferably C12-C18, ethoxylated such as ethoxylated stearyl alcohol with 2 oxyethylene units (CTFA name "Steareth-2") such as BRU 72 sold by the company UNIQEMA; ethoxylated stearyl alcohol containing 20 oxyethylene units (CTFA name "Steareth-20"), such as BRU 78 sold by the company UNIQEMA, and 4). Polyoxyethylenated or non-polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl esters are preferably used. having a number of ethylene oxide units (OE) ranging from 0 to 100. For example, sorbitan laurate 4 or 20 OE may be mentioned, in particular polysorbate 20 (or polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monolaurate) such as Tween 20 sold by Uniqema, sorbitan palmitate 20 0E, sorbitan stearate 20 OE, sorbitan oleate 20 OE or Cremophor (RH 40, RH 60 ...) from BASF. As non-polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sorbitan, a mixture of sorbitan stearate and sucrose cocoate, preferably that marketed under the reference Arlacel 2121U from Croda, is preferably used. (5) Polyoxyethylene or non-polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl ethers are preferably used having a number of ethylene oxide units (OE) of 0 to 100. 6) As alkyl and polyalkyl glucosides or polyglucosides, use is preferably those containing an alkyl group having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 6 to 18, or even from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and containing a glucoside group preferably comprising from 1 to 5 , especially 1, 2 to 3 units of glucoside. The alkylpolyglucosides may be chosen for example from decylglucoside (AlkylC9 / Cii-polyglucoside (1.4)) such as the product sold under the name Mydol 10® by the company Kao Chemicals or the product marketed under the name Plantacare 2000 UP® by Henkel and the product marketed under the name ORAMIX NS 10® by the company SEPPIC; caprylyl / capryl glucoside, such as the product marketed under the name Plantacare KE 3711® by the company Cognis or ORAMIX CG 110® by the company SEPPIC; laurylglucoside, such as the product marketed under the name Plantacare 1200 UP® by Henkel or Plantaren 1200 N® by Henkel; cocoglucoside, such as the product marketed under the name Plantacare 818 UP® by Henkel; caprylylglucoside, such as the product marketed under the name Plantacare 810 UP® by Cognis; and their mixtures.
[0029] More generally, alkylpolyglycoside surfactants are defined more specifically later. 7) Sucrose alkyl and polyalkyl esters include, for example, Crodesta F150, sucrose monolaurate sold under the name Crodesta SL 40, products sold by Ryoto Sugar Ester, for example sucrose palmitate marketed under the reference is Ryoto Sugar Ester P1670, Ryoto Sugar Ester LWA 1695, Ryoto Sugar Ester 01570. 8) As alkyl and polyalkyl esters of glycerol, whether polyoxyethylenated or not, those having a number of oxide units are preferably used. ethylene (OE) ranging from 0 to 100 and a number of glycerol units ranging from 1 to 30. For example, mention may be made of hexaglyceryl monolaurate and PEG-30 glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate. 9) As polyoxyethylenated or non-polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl ether ethers, those having a number of ethylene oxide units (OE) ranging from 0 to 100 and a number of glycerol units ranging from 1 to 100 are preferably used. 30. By way of example, mention may be made of Nikkol Batyl alcohol 100 and Nikkol chemyl alcohol 100.
[0030] Anionic Surfactants The anionic surfactants may be chosen from alkyl (ether) sulphates, carboxylates, amino acid derivatives, sulphonates, isethionates, taurates, sulphosuccinates, alkyl sulphoacetates, phosphates and alkyl phosphates, polypeptides, salts and the like. metal of C 10 -C 30 fatty acids, in particular C 12 -C 20, in particular metal stearates and mixtures thereof. 1) Alkali metal alkyl sulfates and alkyl ether sulfates, for example having at least 12 carbon atoms, more particularly 12 to 16 carbon atoms, and optionally comprising from 1 to 20 oxyethylenated units, more particularly from 1 to oxyethylenated units. . Mention may be made, for example, of sodium lauryl sulphate, sodium lauryl ether sulphate (C12-14 70-30) (2.2 OE) marketed under the names SIPON AOS225 or TEXAPON N702 by the company Henkel, and lauryl ether sulphate. ammonium (C12-14 70-30) (30E) sold under the name Sipon LEA 10 370 by the company Henkel, the alkyl (C12-C14) ether (90 E) ammonium sulphate sold under the name RHODAPEX AB / 20 by Rhodia Chimie, and the mixture of lauryl and oleyl ether sulfate of sodium and magnesium sold under the name EMPICOL BSD 52 by Albright & Wilson. 2) As carboxylates, there may be mentioned for example the (for example alkaline) salts of N-acylamino acids, glycolcarboxylates, amido ether carboxylates (AEC) and polyoxyethylenated carboxylic acid salts. The glycol carboxylate type surfactant may be chosen from alkylglycol carboxylic or 2- (2-hydroxyalkyloxyacetate), their salts and mixtures thereof. These alkyl glycol carboxylic acids comprise a linear or branched alkyl chain, saturated or unsaturated, aliphatic and / or aromatic, having from 8 to 18 carbon atoms. These carboxylic acids can be neutralized with mineral bases such as potassium hydroxide or sodium hydroxide. As surfactants of the carboxylic glycol type, there may be mentioned, for example, sodium lauryl glycol carboxylate or 2- (2-hydroxyalkyloxy sodium acetate), such as the product sold under the name Beaulight Shaa® by the company Sanyo, Beaulight LCA-25N® or the corresponding acid form Beaulight Shaa (Acid form) ®. As amido ether carboxylate (AEC), mention may be made, for example, of sodium lauryl amido ether carboxylate (30E), sold under the name AKYPO FOAM 30® by the company Kao Chemicals.
[0031] As the polyoxyethylenated carboxylic acid salt, mention may be made, for example, of sodium lauryl ether carboxylate (C12-14-16 65/25/10) oxyethylenated (60E) sold under the name AKYPO SOFT 45 NV® by the company Kao Chemicals the polyoxyethylenated and carboxymethylated olive oil fatty acids sold under the name OLIVEM 400® by the company BIOLOGIA E TECNOLOGIA, the oxyethylenated tri-decyl ether carboxylate (60E) marketed under the trademark NIKKOL ECTD-6NEX® by the company Nikkol. 3) As amino acid derivatives, there may be mentioned in particular the alkaline salts of amino acids, such as: sarcosinates, such as sodium lauroyl sarcosinate sold under the name SARKOSYL NL 97® by the company Ciba or sold under the name ORAMIX L 30® by the company Seppic, the sodium myristoyl sarcosinate sold under the name NIKKOL SARCOSINATE MN® by the company Nikkol, the sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate sold under the name NIKKOL SARCOSINATE PN® by the company Nikkol. alaninates, such as the sodium N-lauroyl-N-methylamidopropionate sold under the name Sodium Nikkol Alaninate LN 30® by the company Nikkol, or sold under the name Alanone Ale® by the company Kawaken, N-lauroyl N-methyl alanine triethanolamine sold under the name ALANONE ALTA® by the company Kawaken. glutamates, such as the triethanolamine mono-cocoyl glutamate sold under the name ACYLGLUTAMATE CT-12® by the company Ajinomoto, the triethanolamine lauroylglutamate marketed under the name ACYLGLUTAMATE LT-12® by the company Ajinomoto. aspartates, such as the mixture of N-lauroyl aspartate triethanolamine / N15 myristoyl aspartate triethanolamine marketed under the name ASPARACK® by the company Mitsubishi. glycine derivatives (glycinates), such as the sodium N-cocoyl glycinate sold under the names Amilite GCS-12® and Amilite GCK 12 by the company Ajinomoto. Citrates, such as the citric monoester of oxyethylenated coconut alcohols (9 moles), sold under the name WITCONOL EC 1129 by the company Goldschmidt, the citric acid monoester of glyceryl stearate. galacturonates, such as the sodium dodecyl D-galactoside uronate marketed by Soliance. 4) As sulphonates, mention may be made, for example, of alpha-olefin sulphonates, such as sodium alpha-olefin sulphonate (C14-16) sold under the name BIO-TERGE AS-40® by the company Stepan, sold under the names WITCONATE AOS PROTEGE® and SULFRAMINE AOS PH 12® by Witco or sold under the name BIO-TERGE AS-40 CG® by Stepan, the secondary sodium olefin sulfonate marketed under the name HOSTAPUR SAS 30® by the company Clariant company; 5) As isethionates, mention may be made of acylisethionates such as sodium cocoylisethionate, such as the product sold under the name JORDAPON CI P® by the company Jordan. 6) As taurates, mention may be made of the sodium salt of palm kernel oil methyltaurate marketed under the name HOSTAPON CT PATE® by the company Clariant; N-acyl N-methyltaurates, such as sodium N-cocoyl N-methyltaurate sold under the name HOSTAPON LT-SF® by the company Clariant or sold under the name NIKKOL CMT-30-T® by the company Nikkol, palmitoyl methyltaurate sodium sold under the name NIKKOL PMT® by the company Nikkol. 7) As sulfosuccinates, there may be mentioned, for example, the oxyethylenated (30E) lauryl alcohol (C12 / C14 70/30) monosulphosuccinate marketed under the names SETACIN 103 SPECIAL®, REWOPOL SB-FA 30 K 4® by Witco, the di-sodium salt of a hemi-sulfosuccinate of C12-C14 alcohols, marketed under the name SETACIN F SPECIAL PASTE® by the company Zschimmer Schwarz, the oxyethylenated (20E) di-sodium dioledosulphosuccinate sold under the name STANDAPOL SH 135® denomination by Henkel, the oxyethylenated lauric amide mono-sulfosuccinate (50E) marketed under the name LEBON A5000® by Sanyo, the di-sodium salt of oxyethylenated lauryl citrate monosulfinate ( 10 0E) marketed under the name REWOPOL SB CS 50® by the company Witco, ricinoleic mono-ethanolamide mono-sulfosuccinate sold under the name REWODERM S 1333® by the company Witco. Polydimethylsiloxane sulfosuccinates such as disodium PEG-12 dimethicone sulfosuccinate sold under the name MACKANATE-DC30 by Mac Intyre can also be used. 8) As alkyl sulphoacetate, there may be mentioned, for example, the mixture of sodium lauryl sulphoacetate and di-sodium lauryl ether sulphosuccinate, sold under the name Stepan-Lactin LSB by the company Stepan. 9) Phosphates and alkylphosphates include, for example, monoalkyl phosphates and dialkyl phosphates, such as lauryl mono-phosphate sold under the name MAP 20® by the company Kao Chemicals, the potassium salt of dodecyl acid, phosphoric acid, a mixture of mono- and di-ester (majority diester) marketed under the name CRAFOL AP-31® by the company Cognis, the mixture of monoester and octylphosphoric acid di-ester, sold under the name CRAFOL AP- 20® by the company Cognis, the mixture of monoester and ethoxylated 2-butyloctanol phophoric acid diester (7 moles of EO), sold under the name ISOFOL 12 7 EO-PHOSPHATE ESTER® by the company Condea, potassium salt or triethanolamine monoalkyl (C12-C13) phosphate sold under the references ARLATONE MAP 230K-40® and ARLATONE MAP 230T-60® by the company Uniqema, potassium lauryl phosphate marketis under the name DERMALCARE MAP XC-99 / 09® by Rhodia Chimie, and potassium cetyl phosphate sold under the name Arlatone MAP 160K by the company Uniqema 35. 10) The polypeptides are obtained for example by condensation of a fatty chain on the amino acids of cereals and in particular wheat and oats. As polypeptides, mention may be made, for example, of the potassium salt of lauroyl hydrolysed wheat protein, sold under the name AMINOFOAM W OR by the company Croda, the triethanolamine salt of cocoyl soy protein hydrolysed, sold under the name MAY- TEIN SY by the company Maybrook, the sodium salt of lauroyl amino acids of oats, sold under the name PROTEOL OAT by the company Seppic, the collagen hydrolyzate grafted on the coconut fatty acid, marketed under the name GELIDERM 3000 by the company Deutsche Gelatine, soy proteins acylated with hydrogenated copra acids, sold under the name PROTEOL VS 22 by the company Seppic. 11) As metal salts of C 10 -C 30 fatty acids, in particular C 12 -C 20, mention may in particular be made of metal stearates, such as sodium stearate and potassium stearate, as well as polyhydroxy stearates.
[0032] Cationic surfactants The cationic surfactants may be chosen from: alkylimidazolidiniums such as isostearylethylimidonium ethosulphate, ammonium salts such as C12-30alkyl-tri (alkyl) halides. C 1-4) ammonium such as N, N, N-trimethyl-1-docosanaminium chloride (or Behentrimonium chloride). Amphoteric surfactants The compositions according to the invention may also contain one or more amphoteric surfactants such as N-acyl amino acids such as N-alkyl-aminoacetates and disodium cocoamphodiacetate, and amine oxides such as stearamine oxide. or silicone surfactants such as dimethicone copolyols phosphates such as that sold under the name PECOSIL PS 100® by the company Phoenix Chemical. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one nonionic surfactant as stabilizing agent, preferably chosen from alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sorbitan, in particular non-polyoxyethylenated, and better still a mixture of stearate. sorbitan and sucrose cocoate, preferably that sold under the reference Arlacel 2121 from Croda; or else chosen from fatty alcohols, in particular having at least 8 carbon atoms, which are oxyalkylenated, in particular oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated, and may contain from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene units, in particular having from 20 to 100 oxyethylene units, in particular fatty alcohols, especially C8-C24, and preferably C12-C18, ethoxylated, or mixtures thereof. Gemini surfactant According to a particularly advantageous variant of the invention, the composition comprises at least one gemini surfactant of formula (I): ## STR2 ## in which: R 1 and R 3 denote, independently from each other, an alkyl radical having from 1 to 25 carbon atoms; R2 denotes a spacer consisting of a linear or branched alkylene chain having from 1 to 12 carbon atoms; X and Y denote, independently of one another, a group - (C2H40) a (C3H60) bZ where - Z denotes a hydrogen atom or a radical -CH2-COOM, -SO3M, -P (0 ) (01 4) 2, -C2H4-SO3M, -C3H6-SO3M or -CH2 (CHOH) 4CH2OH, where M, M 'are H or an alkaline or alkaline earth or ammonium or alkanolammonium ion, - a is 0 at 15, b goes from 0 to 10, and the sum of a + b goes beyond 25; and n is from 1 to 10. The gemini surfactant of formula (I) is preferably such that each of the R1-CO- and R3-CO- groups comprises from 8 to 20 carbon atoms, and preferably denotes a radical. of coconut fatty acids (mainly comprising lauric acid and myristic acid). Further, this surfactant is preferably such that for each of the X and Y radicals, the sum of a and b has an average value ranging from 10 to 20 and is preferably equal to 15. A preferred group for Z is the -SO3M group where M is preferably an alkaline ion such as a sodium ion. The spacer R2 is advantageously constituted by a linear C 1 -C 3 alkylene chain, and preferably an ethylene chain (CH 2 CH 2). Finally, n is advantageously equal to 1. A surfactant of this type is in particular that identified by the INCI name: Sodium dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 sulfate, having the following structure: ## STR2 ## (PEG-15) -SO3Na cocoyl -C Wherein it is understood that PEG represents the group CH2CH2O, and cocoyl represents the coconut fatty acid residue. ## STR2 ## This surfactant has a molecular structure very close to that of ceramide-3.
[0033] Preferably, the geminate surfactant according to the invention is used in admixture with other surfactants, and especially in admixture with (a) a C 6 -C 22 fatty acid ester (preferably a C 14 -C 20 fatty acid ester such as a stearate ) and glyceryl, (b) a C 6 -C 22 (preferably C 14 -C 20) fatty acid diester such as a stearate and citric acid and glycerol (especially a C 6 fatty acid diester). C22 and glyceryl monocitrate), and (c) a C 10 -C 30 fatty alcohol (preferably behenyl alcohol). Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 Sulfate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl monitrate stearate, behenyl alcohol.
[0034] More preferably, the geminate surfactant according to the invention represents from 10 to 20% by weight, and advantageously 15% by weight; the fatty acid C 6 -C 22 and glyceryl ester represents from 30 to 40% by weight, advantageously 35% by weight; the C 6 -C 22 fatty acid diester and citric acid and glycerol represent from 10 to 20% by weight, advantageously 15% by weight; and the C 10 -C 30 fatty alcohol represents from 30 to 40% by weight, advantageously 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the surfactant mixture containing the geminated surfactant. Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of 10 to 20% by weight of Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 Sulfate, from 30 to 40% by weight of glyceryl stearate, from 10 to 20% by weight of monocrystalline stearate. glyceryl, from 30 to 40% by weight of behenyl alcohol, relative to the total weight of the surfactant mixture containing the geminate surfactant. Alternatively, the geminate surfactant according to the invention may be used in admixture with an anionic surfactant such as a lauric acid ester, sodium lauroyl lactate. In this case, the gemini surfactant preferably represents from 30 to 50% by weight, and the anionic surfactant represents from 50 to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the mixture. For example, the geminate surfactant may be used in admixture with other surfactants in the form of the products sold by the company SASOL under the names CERALUTION, and in particular the following products: Ceralution® H: Behenyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate and Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 Sulfate, - Ceralution® F: Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate and Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 Sulfate. - Ceralution® C: Aqua, Capric / Caprylic Triglyceride, Glycerin, Ceteareth-25, Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 Sulfate, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Behenyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Gum Arabic, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben , Butylparaben, Isobutylparaben (INCI names). This gemini surfactant represents from 3 to 50% of the weight of these mixtures. Preferably, the composition comprises, as geminiated surfactant, the compound having the INCI name is Behenyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate and Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 Sulfate, sold under the name Ceralution® H by the company Sasol. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one anionic surfactant and at least one nonionic surfactant as defined above. According to a more particular variant of this embodiment, the composition further comprises at least one gemini surfactant of formula (I) detailed above.
[0035] More particularly, the content of anionic surfactant (s) present in the composition according to the invention represents from 0.1 to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 1.5% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition. Preferably, the content of nonionic surfactant (s) present in the composition according to the invention represents from 0.5 to 10% by weight, preferably from 1 to 5% by weight, relative to weight of the composition. Preferably, if the composition comprises, the content of gemini surfactant of formula (I) is between 0.1 and 3% by weight, and even more particularly between 0.2 and 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0036] ADDITIONAL COMPOUNDS A composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one additional compound selected from fillers, solid fatty substances, semi-crystalline polymers, film-forming polymers, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the additional compound is represented by at least one solid fatty substance.
[0037] Preferably, the solid fatty substances are chosen from waxes, pasty fatty substances, and mixtures thereof. Charges A cosmetic composition used according to the invention may comprise at least one filler, of organic or mineral nature. By "charge" is meant colorless or white, solid particles of all shapes, which are in an insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition. Of mineral or organic nature, they make it possible to impart body or stiffness to the composition, and / or softness, and uniformity to make-up. They are distinct from the dyestuffs Among the fillers that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made of silica, kaolin, bentone, starch, lauroyl-lysine or fumed silica particles, optionally treated with hydrophilic or hydrophobic, and mixtures thereof.
[0038] A composition used according to the invention may comprise one or more fillers in a content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, in particular from 1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0039] Wax (s) Advantageously, a solid fatty substance is represented by at least one wax. Thus, the composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one wax. For the purposes of the invention, the term "wax" means a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25 ° C.), with reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30 ° C. up to 120 ° C. The waxes that may be used in a composition according to the invention are chosen from waxes, solid, deformable or not at room temperature, of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof. For example, solid fatty alcohols comprising from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, may be mentioned. As particular examples of fatty alcohols that may be used as preferred, mention may be made especially of methyl, palmitic, behenic, erucic and arachidyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. In particular, it is possible to use hydrocarbon-based waxes such as beeswax, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect waxes; rice wax, Carnauba wax, Candelilla wax, Ouricurry wax, Alfa wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax ; montan wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers and their esters. Mention may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched C8-C32 fatty chains. Among these, there may be mentioned hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil and hydrogenated lanolin oil, di-tetrastearate ( trimethylol-1,1,1 propane) sold under the name "HEST 2T-4S" by the company HETERENE, di- (1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetra-enehenate sold under the name HEST 2T-4B by the company HETERENE. It is also possible to use the waxes obtained by transesterification and hydrogenation of vegetable oils, such as castor oil or olive oil, such as the waxes sold under the names Phytowax castor 16L64 ° and 22L73 ° and Phytowax Olive 18L57 by the company Sophim. Such waxes are described in application FR-A-2792190. It is also possible to use silicone waxes which may advantageously be substituted polysiloxanes, preferably at low melting point. Among the commercial silicone waxes of this type, mention may be made in particular of those sold under the names Abilwax 9800, 9801 or 9810 (GOLDSCHMIDT), KF910 40 and KF7002 (SHIN ETSU), or 176-1118-3 and 176-11481 (GENERAL ELECTRIC).
[0040] The silicone waxes that can be used can also be alkyl or alkoxydimethicones, such as the following commercial products: Abilwax 2428, 2434 and 2440 (GOLDSCHMIDT), or VP 1622 and VP 1621 (WACKER), as well as (C 20 -C 60) alkyl dimethicones, in particular especially (C30-C45) alkyldimethicones such as the silicone wax sold under the name SF-1642 by the company GE-Bayer Silicones. It is also possible to use hydrocarbon waxes modified with silicone or fluorinated groups such as, for example, siliconyl candelilla, siliconyl beeswax and Fluorobeeswax by Koster Keunen. The waxes may also be chosen from fluorinated waxes.
[0041] According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one wax having a melting point of less than 65 ° C., preferably less than 63 ° C. Such a wax may in particular be chosen from paraffin wax, stearic alcohol, hydrogenated coco-glycerides, synthetic beeswax (in particular that marketed under the reference CYCLOCHEM 326 A by Evonik Goldschmidt), palm butter , Sumac wax, silicone beeswax, stearyl stearate, alkyl dimethicone wax, certain polymethylene waxes (such as Cirebelle's 30% Cirebelle), Berry wax, and olive oil wax , lemon wax, ceresin wax (sold under the reference WHITE CERESIN WAX JH 520 by HANSOTECH), and mixtures thereof. According to an even more preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one hydrogenated olive oil ester wax, preferably that whose INCI name is HYDROGENATED STEARYL OLIVE ESTERS, such as that marketed under the reference PHYTOWAX OLIVE 18 L 57 of SOPHIM and the one whose INCI name is HYDROGENATED MYRISTYL OLIVE ESTERS, such as the one sold under the reference PHYTOWAX OLIVE 14L48 SOPHIM. According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of wax.
[0042] According to another embodiment, the composition according to the invention may comprise an additional wax content (s) with a melting point of less than 65 ° C. ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight and better still from 0 , 5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In particular, the composition according to the invention may comprise a total wax content of between 0.1% and 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition according to the invention may comprise between 0.1 and 20% by weight of wax (s), more particularly between 0.5 and 15% by weight, and better still between 1 and 10% by weight, relative to to the total weight of the composition.
[0043] Preferably, when the composition is in liquid form, it comprises a total wax content of between 0.1% and 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0044] Advantageously, the solid fatty substance is represented by a pasty fatty substance. This embodiment is particularly advantageous in the case where one seeks to obtain a gloss or satin deposit, such as in the makeup product of the lips, such as a lipstick.
[0045] Thus, the composition considered according to the invention may further comprise at least one pasty fatty substance. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "pasty fatty substance" is intended to mean a lipophilic fat compound with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having in the solid state an anisotropic crystalline organization and having at a temperature of 23 ° C. a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. In other words, the starting melting temperature of the pasty compound may be less than 23 ° C. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 23 ° C. can represent 9 to 97% by weight of the compound. This liquid fraction at 23 ° C is preferably between 15 and 85%, more preferably between 40 and 85% by weight.
[0046] For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of a paste or a wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by the company TA Instruments .
[0047] The measurement protocol is as follows: A sample of 5 mg of paste or wax (as the case may be) placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise from -20 ° C to 100 ° C, at the rate of heating of 10 ° C / minute, then is cooled from 100 ° C to -20 ° C at a cooling rate of 10 ° C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from -20 ° C to 100 ° C at a heating rate of 5 ° C / minute. During the second temperature rise, the variation of the power difference absorbed by the empty crucible and the crucible containing the pasty or wax sample is measured as a function of temperature. The melting point of the compound is the value of the temperature corresponding to the peak apex of the curve representing the variation of the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature. The liquid fraction by weight of the pasty compound at 23 ° C. is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23 ° C. to the heat of fusion of the pasty compound. The heat of fusion of the pasty compound is the enthalpy consumed by the compound to pass from the solid state to the liquid state. The pasty compound is said to be in the solid state when the entirety of its mass is in crystalline solid form. The pasty compound is said to be in a liquid state when all of its mass is in liquid form. The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is equal to the area under the curve of the thermogram obtained using a differential scanning calorimeter (DS C), such as the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA instrument, with a temperature rise of 5 or 10 ° C per minute, according to ISO 11357-3: 1999. The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is the amount of energy required to pass the compound from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J / g. The heat of fusion consumed at 23 ° C is the amount of energy absorbed by the sample to change from the solid state to the state that it has at 23 ° C consisting of a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32 ° C is preferably 30 to 100% by weight of the compound, preferably 50 to 100%, more preferably 60 to 100% by weight of the compound. When the liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32 ° C. is equal to 100%, the temperature of the end of the melting range of the pasty compound is less than or equal to 32 ° C. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32 ° C. is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32 ° C. to the heat of fusion of the pasty compound. The heat of fusion consumed at 32 ° C. is calculated in the same way as the heat of fusion consumed at 23 ° C. The pasty fatty substance may be chosen from synthetic compounds and compounds of plant origin. A pasty fatty substance can be obtained synthetically from starting materials of plant origin. The pasty fatty substance is advantageously chosen from: lanolin and its derivatives such as lanolin alcohol, oxyethylenated lanolines, acetylated lanolin, lanolin esters such as isopropyl lanolate, oxypropylenated lanolines, polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds, such as polydimethylsiloxanes of high molecular weight, polydimethylsiloxanes with side chains of the alkyl or alkoxy type having from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, especially stearyl dimethicones, polymeric or non-polymeric fluorinated compounds, vinyl polymers, especially: homopolymers of olefins, olefin copolymers, homopolymers and copolymers of hydrogenated dienes, linear or branched oligomers, homo or copolymers of alkyl (meth) acrylates having preferably a C8-C30 alkyl group, homo and copolymer oligomers of vinyl esters having C 8 -C 30 alkyls, homo and copolymer oligomers of vinyl ethers having C 8 -C 30 alkyl groups, liposoluble polyethers resulting from the polyetherification between one or more C 2 -C 10 diols, preferably C 2 -C 50 diols, esters and polyesters, and - their mixtures. The pasty fatty substance may be a polymer, in particular a hydrocarbon polymer. A preferred silicone and fluoro pasty fatty substance is polymethyl-trifluoropropylmethylalkyl-dimethylsiloxane, manufactured under the name X22-1088 by SHIN ETSU.
[0048] Among the liposoluble polyethers, there may be mentioned copolymers of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with C6-C10 alkylene oxides. Preferably, the weight ratio of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide to the alkylene oxides in the copolymer is from 5:95 to 70:30. In this family, mention will be made in particular of block copolymers comprising blocks of C 6 -C 30 alkylene oxides having a molecular weight ranging from 1,000 to 10,000, for example a polyoxyethylene / polydodecylene glycol block copolymer such as dodecanediol ethers. (22 mol) and polyethylene glycol (45 oxyethylene or 0E units) marketed under the trademark ELFACOS ST9 by Akzo Nobel. Among the esters, the following are particularly preferred: esters of an oligomeric glycerol, in particular the esters of diglycerol, in particular the condensates of adipic acid and of glycerol, for which part of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, for example those marketed under the trademark Softisan 649 by the company Sasol; or having reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as lauric acid, palmitic acid, cetyl acid and stearic acid, for example those sold under the reference Softisan 100 by Cremer Oleo: phytosterol esters; pentaerythritol esters; esters formed from: at least one C16-40 alcohol, at least one of the alcohols being a Guerbet alcohol and a diacid dimer formed from at least one unsaturated fatty acid, C18-40, such as the tall oil fatty acid dimer ester comprising 36 carbon atoms and a mixture of i) Guerbet alcohols comprising 32 carbon atoms and ii) behenyl alcohol; the dimer ester of linoleic acid and a mixture of two Guerbet alcohols, 2-tetradecyl-octadecanol (32 carbon atoms) and 2-hexadecyl-eicosanol (36 carbon atoms); the non-crosslinked polyesters resulting from the polycondensation between a linear or branched C 4 -C 50 dicarboxylic acid or polycarboxylic acid and a C2-C50 diol or polyol, the polyesters which result from the esterification between a polycarboxylic acid; and a hydroxylated aliphatic carboxylic acid ester such as Risocast DA-L and Risocast DA-H marketed by the Japanese company KOKYU ALCOHOL KOGYO, which are esters resulting from the esterification reaction of hydrogenated castor oil with dilinoleic acid or isostearic acid; and the aliphatic ester esters resulting from the esterification between an aliphatic hydroxyl carboxylic acid ester and an aliphatic carboxylic acid, for example that sold under the trade name Salacos HCIS (V) -L by the company Nishing Oil. Guerbet alcohol is the reaction product of the Guerbet reaction well known to those skilled in the art. This is a reaction converting a primary aliphatic alcohol to its dimer alcohol (3-alkylated with loss of one equivalent of water.) The aliphatic carboxylic acids described above generally comprise from 4 to 30 and preferably from at 30 carbon atoms, preferably selected from hexanoic acid, heptanoic acid, octanoic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, nonanoic acid, decanoic acid, undecanoic acid, dodecanoic acid, tridecanoic acid, tetradecanoic acid, pentadecanoic acid, hexadecanoic acid, hexyldecanoic acid, heptadecanoic acid, octadecanoic acid, isostearic acid, nonadecanoic acid, eicosanoic acid, isoarachidic acid, octyldodecanoic acid, henicosanoic acid, docosanoic acid, and mixtures thereof.
[0049] The aliphatic carboxylic acids are preferably branched. The hydroxylated aliphatic carboxylic acid esters are advantageously derived from a hydroxylated aliphatic carboxylic acid having from 2 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 34 carbon atoms and better still from 12 to 28 carbon atoms, and from 1 to 30 carbon atoms. Hydroxyl groups, preferably from 1 to 10 hydroxyl groups and more preferably from 1 to 6 hydroxyl groups. The hydroxylated aliphatic carboxylic acid esters are in particular chosen from: a) the esters, partial or total, of linear, saturated monohydroxylated aliphatic monocarboxylic acids; b) esters, partial or total, of unsaturated monohydroxylated aliphatic monocarboxylic acids; c) the esters, partial or total, of polyhydric aliphatic saturated monohydroxy carboxylic acids; d) the esters, partial or total, of saturated polyhydroxylated aliphatic polycarboxylic acids; e) the esters, partial or total, of aliphatic polyols C2 to C16 reacted with a mono- or polyhydroxylated aliphatic mono- or polycarboxylic acid, f) and mixtures thereof. the diol dimer and diacid dimer esters, where appropriate, esterified on their (their) alcohol (s) or free acid (s) function (s) with acidic or alcoholic groups, in particular dimer dilinoleate esters; such esters may in particular be chosen from the following INCI nomenclature esters: bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl dimerdilinoleyl dimerdilinoleate (Plandool G), phytosteryl / isosteryl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl dimerdilinoleate (Plandool H or Plandool S) and their mixtures, vegetable butters such as mango butter, such as that marketed under the reference Lipex 203 by the company Aharushkarlshamn, shea butter, in particular the one whose INCI name is Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, such as that marketed under the reference Sheasoft® by AARHUSKARLSHAMN, cupuacu butter (Rain forest RF3410 from Beraca Sabara), murumuru butter (RAIN FOREST RF3710 from Beraca Sabara), cocoa butter; as well as orange wax, for example, the one marketed under the reference Orange Peel Wax by the company Koster Keunen, - vegetable oils that are totally or partially hydrogenated, for example hydrogenated soybean oil, oil hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, hydrogenated vegetable oil mixtures such as the hydrogenated vegetable oil mixture of soybean, coconut, palm and rapeseed, for example the mixture sold under the reference Akogel® by the company Aharushkarlshamn (INCI name Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), trans isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil manufactured or marketed by Desert Whale under the trade name Iso-Jojoba-50®, partially hydrogenated olive oil such as, for example, compound sold under the reference Beurrolive by the company Soliance. The ester aliphatic esters are advantageously chosen from: the ester resulting from the esterification reaction of hydrogenated castor oil with isostearic acid in the proportions 1 to 1 (1/1), which is called monoisostearate of hydrogenated castor oil, - the ester resulting from the esterification reaction of hydrogenated castor oil with isostearic acid in proportions 1 to 2 (1/2), which is called oil diisostearate hydrogenated castor oil, - the ester resulting from the esterification reaction of hydrogenated castor oil with isostearic acid in proportions 1 to 3 (1/3), which is called hydrogenated castor oil triisostearate , and their mixtures. In particular, the composition according to the invention may comprise a total pasty fatty substance content of between 0.1% and 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0050] Preferably, the pasty fatty substance (s) may be present in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 30% by weight, especially from 1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0051] ADDITIONAL MOISTURIZING AGENTS According to a first embodiment, the composition may further comprise at least one additional moisturizing agent (also called humectant), different from glycerine. As additional humectant or moisturizing agents, mention may in particular be made of sorbitol, urea and its derivatives, in particular Hydrovance (2-hydroxyethyl urea) marketed by National Starch, lactic acid, hyaluronic acid, AHAs and BHAs. sodium pidolate, xylitol, serine, sodium lactate, ectoin and its derivatives, chitosan and its derivatives, collagen, plankton, an extract of imperata cylindra sold under the name Moist 24 by the company Sederma, homopolymers of acrylic acid such as NOF corporation Lipidure-HM®, beta-glucan and in particular sodium carboxymethyl beta-glucan from Mibelle-AG-Biochemistry; a mixture of passionflower, apricot, corn and rice bran oils marketed by Nestlé under the name NutraLipids®; a C-glycoside derivative such as those described in patent application WO 02/051828 and in particular CPD-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane in the form of a solution containing 30% by weight of active material in a water / propylene glycol mixture (60/40% by weight) such as the product manufactured by CHIMEX under the trade name "MEXORYL SBB °"; a muscat rose oil marketed by Nestlé; an extract of microalga Prophyridium cruentum enriched in zinc marketed by Vincience under the name Algualane Zinc®; spheres of collagen and chondroitin sulfate of marine origin (Ateocollagen) marketed by Engelhard Lyon under the name marine filling spheres; spheres of hyaluronic acid such as those marketed by Engelhard Lyon; and arginine. Preferably, use will be made of a moisturizing agent chosen from glycerin, urea and its derivatives, in particular Hydrovance® marketed by National Starch, hyaluronic acid, AHAs, BHAs, homopolymers of acrylic acid such as Lipidure- HM® from NOF Corporation, beta-glucan and in particular sodium carboxymethyl beta-glucan from Mibelle-AG-Biochemistry; a mixture of passionflower, apricot, corn and rice bran oils marketed by Nestlé under the name NutraLipids®; a C-glycoside derivative such as those described in patent application WO 02/051828 and in particular CPD-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane in the form of a solution containing 30% by weight of active material in a water / propylene glycol mixture (60/40% by weight) such as the product manufactured by CHIMEX under the trade name "MEXORYL SBB °"; a muscat rose oil marketed by Nestlé; an extract of microalga Prophyridium cruentum enriched in zinc marketed by Vincience under the name Algualane Zinc®; spheres of collagen and chondroitin sulfate of marine origin (Ateocollagen) marketed by Engelhard Lyon under the name marine filling spheres; spheres of hyaluronic acid such as those marketed by Engelhard Lyon; and arginine. AQUEOUS PHASE As stated above, a composition according to the invention comprises at least 5% by weight of water, preferably at least 10% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, a composition according to the invention may comprise from 5% to 80% by weight of water, preferably from 10% to 70% by weight, in particular from 15% to 50% by weight, relative to its weight. total weight. The composition according to the invention may comprise, in addition to water, at least one water-soluble solvent. The aqueous phase may constitute the continuous phase of the composition. By aqueous continuous phase composition is meant that the composition has a conductivity, measured at 25 ° C., greater than or equal to 23 μS / cm (microSiemens / cm), the conductivity being measured for example using a MPC227 conductivity meter from Mettler Toledo and an Inlab730 conductivity cell. The measuring cell is immersed in the composition, so as to eliminate air bubbles that may form between the 2 electrodes of the cell. The reading of the conductivity is made as soon as the value of the conductivity meter is stabilized. An average is performed on at least 3 successive measurements.
[0052] By "water-soluble solvent" is meant in the present invention a liquid compound at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25 ° C and atmospheric pressure). The water-soluble solvents that can be used in the compositions according to the invention can moreover be volatile.
[0053] Among the water-soluble solvents that can be used in the compositions in accordance with the invention, mention may be made in particular of lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, such as C3 and C4 ethanol and isopropanol ketones and C2 aldehydes. C4. Preferably, the composition according to the invention preferably comprises a total content of monoalcohols comprising between 2 and 8 carbon atoms of between 0 and 10% by weight (limits included) relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a total content of monoalcohols comprising between 2 and 8 carbon atoms of between 0 and 5% by weight (limits included) relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0054] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is free of monoalcohols comprising between 2 and 8 carbon atoms. Preferably, said mono-alcohol (s) comprising between 2 and 8 carbon atoms is / are chosen from ethanol, butanol, methanol or isopropanol. However, the content of the aqueous phase indicated above does not include the contents of each of the compounds raised. A composition according to the invention may furthermore comprise any additional component usually used in cosmetics, such as dyestuffs, fillers or cosmetic active agents. Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional compounds, and / or their quantity, in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition used according to the invention are not, or not substantially, impaired by the adj anointing considered. COLORING USES A composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one dyestuff. Preferably, the latter is chosen from water-soluble or non-fat soluble or non-soluble, organic or inorganic dyestuffs, optical effect materials, and mixtures thereof. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "dyestuff" means a compound capable of producing a colored optical effect when it is formulated in sufficient quantity in a suitable cosmetic medium. According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one water-soluble dyestuff. The water-soluble dyestuffs used according to the invention are more particularly water-soluble dyes. For the purposes of the invention, the term "water-soluble dye" is intended to mean any generally organic compound, natural or synthetic, soluble in an aqueous phase or solvents that are miscible with water and capable of coloring. In particular, it is intended to characterize, by the term water-soluble, the ability of a compound to solubilize in water, measured at 25 ° C., at a concentration of at least 0.1 g / l (obtaining a macroscopically isotropic and transparent solution, colored or not). This solubility is in particular greater than or equal to 1 g / l.
[0055] As water-soluble dyes that are suitable for the invention, water-soluble synthetic or natural dyes, such as, for example, FDC Red 4 (CI: 14700), DC Red 6 (Lithol Rubine Na, CI: 15850), DC can be mentioned. Red 22 (CI: 45380), DC Red 28 (CI: 45410 Na salt), DC Red 30 (CI: 73360), DC Red 33 (CI: 17200), DC Orange 4 (CI: 15510), FDC Yellow 5 (CI: 19140), FDC Yellow 6 (CI: 15985), DC Yellow 8 (CI: 45350 Na Salt), FDC Green 3 (CI: 42053), DC Green 5 (CI: 61570); ), FDC Blue 1 (CI: 42090). By way of non-limiting illustration of sources of water-soluble dye (s) that may be used in the context of the present invention, mention may be made especially of those of natural origin, such as extracts of carmine, cochineal, beetroot, grape, carrot, tomato, annatto, paprika, henna, caramel and curcumin. Thus, the water-soluble dyestuffs that are suitable for the invention are in particular carminic acid, betanine, anthocyanins, enocyanines, lycopene, beta-carotene, bixin, norbixin, capsanthin, capsulubin, flovoxanthine, lutein, cryptoxanthin, rubixanthine, violaxanthin, riboflavin, roudoxanthin, cantaxanthin, chlorophyll, and mixtures thereof. It may also be copper sulphate, iron, water-soluble sulphopolyesters, rhodamine, betaine, methylene blue, disodium tartrazine salt and disodium fuschine salt. Some of these water-soluble dyestuffs are in particular approved for food. As a representative of these dyes, mention may be made more particularly of the dyes of the family of carotenoids, referenced under the food codes E120, E162, E163, E160a-g, E150a, E101, E100, E140 and E141.
[0056] According to a preferred variant, the water-soluble coloring substance (s) to be transferred onto the skin and / or the lips intended to be made up, are formulated in a physiologically acceptable medium of to be compatible with impregnation at the substrate.
[0057] The water-soluble dyestuff (s) may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01 to 8% by weight, preferably from 0 to 8% by weight. , 1 to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the water-soluble coloring material (s) are chosen from the di-sodium salt of bright yellow. FCF marketed by the company LCW under the name DC Yellow 6, the di-sodium salt of acidic fuchsin D marketed by LCW under the name DC Red 33, the tri-sodium salt of the Allura Red marketed by LCW under the name FD & C Red 40.
[0058] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises only water-soluble dyes as dyestuffs. According to another embodiment, a composition according to the invention may comprise, in addition to the water-soluble dyestuffs described above, one or more additional dyestuffs, in particular of the pigment or nacre type, conventionally used in cosmetic compositions. The term "pigments" means white or colored, inorganic (mineral) or organic particles, insoluble in the liquid organic phase, intended to color and / or opacify the composition and / or the deposit produced with the composition. The pigments may be chosen from inorganic pigments, organic pigments, and composite pigments (that is to say pigments based on mineral and / or organic materials).
[0059] The pigments may be chosen from monochromatic pigments, lacquers, pearlescent agents, optical effect pigments, such as reflecting pigments and goniochromatic pigments. The inorganic pigments may be chosen from metal oxide pigments, chromium oxides, iron oxides, titanium dioxide, zinc oxides, cerium oxides, zirconium oxides, manganese violet, prussian blue, ultramarine blue, ferric blue, and their mixtures. The organic pigments may be, for example: cochineal carmine, organic pigments of azo, anthraquinone, indigo, xanthene, pyrenic, quinoline, triphenylmethane or fluoran dyes; organic lakes or insoluble salts of sodium, potassium, calcium, barium, aluminum, zirconium, strontium, titanium, acid dyes such as azo, anthraquinone, indigo, xanthene, pyrenic, quinoline dyes , triphenylmethane, fluoran. These dyes generally comprise at least one carboxylic or sulphonic acid group; melanic pigments. Among the organic pigments, mention may be made of D & C Blue No. 4, D & C Brown No. 1, D & C Green No. 5, D & C Green No. 6, D & C Orange No. 4, D & C Orange No. 5, D & C Orange No. 10 , D & C Orange No. 11, D & C Red No. 6, D & C Red No. 7, D & C Red No. 17, D & C Red No. 21, D & C Red No. 22, D & C Red No. 27, D & C Red No. 28, D & C Red Red No. 30, D & C Red No. 31, D & C Red No. 33, D & C Red No. 34, D & C Red No. 36, D & C Violet No. 2, D & C Yellow No. 7, D & C Yellow No. 8, D & C Yellow No. ° 10, D & C Yellow No. 11, FD & C Blue No. 1, FD & C Green No. 3, FD & C Red No. 40, FD & C Yellow No. 5, FD & C Yellow No. 6.
[0060] The hydrophobic treatment agent may be chosen from silicones such as methicones, dimethicones and perfluoroalkylsilanes; fatty acids such as stearic acid; metallic soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, hydrogenated tallow glutamate aluminum salt, perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoroalkyl silanes, perfluoroalkyl silazanes, hexafluoropropylene polyoxides, polyorganosiloxanes comprising perfluoroalkyl perfluoropolyether groups, amino acids ; N-acyl amino acids or their salts; lecithin, isopropyl trisostearyl titanate, and mixtures thereof. The N-acyl amino acids may comprise an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, for example a 2-ethyl hexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group. The salts of these compounds may be aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zin, sodium or potassium salts. The amino acid can be for example lysine, glutamic acid, alanine. The term alkyl mentioned in the compounds mentioned above denotes in particular an alkyl group having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably having from 5 to 16 carbon atoms. Hydrophobic-treated pigments are described in particular in application EP-A-1086683. For the purposes of the present application, the term "mother-of-pearl" means colored particles of any shape, iridescent or otherwise, especially produced by certain shellfish in their shell or else synthesized and which exhibit a color effect by optical interference. Examples of pearlescent agents include pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica covered with an organic dye including the aforementioned type as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. It may also be mica particles on the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic dyestuffs. The nacres may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or copper color or reflection. By way of illustration, nacres which may be introduced as interference pigment in the first composition include gold-colored pearlescent agents marketed by ENGELHARD under the name Brillant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); bronze nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the name Bronze Fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by Engelhard under the name Super Bronze (Cloisonne); orange nacres sold especially by ENGELHARD under the names 35 Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by MERCK under the name Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte orange (17449) (Microna); brown-colored pearlescent agents marketed by Engelhard under the name Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); nacres with a copper sheen sold especially by Engelhard under the name Copper 340A (Timica); the nacres with a red glint sold especially by MERCK under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona); yellow-colored pearlescent agents marketed by ENGELHARD under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); the red-colored pearlescent agents with a gold glint sold especially by ENGELHARD under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); pink nacres sold especially by Engelhard under the name Tan opal G005 (Gemtone); the black nacres with gold reflection sold by the company Engelhard under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica), the blue nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the name Matte Blue (17433) (Microna), the white nacres with reflection silver sold in particular by the company Merck under the name Xirona Silver and the golden-green orange-colored mother-of-pearl marketed by Merck under the name Indian summer (Xirona) and their mixtures.
[0061] ADDITIONAL USUAL COSMETIC INGREDIENTS A composition according to the invention may furthermore comprise any usual cosmetic ingredient which may be chosen in particular from antioxidants, additional film-forming polymers (lipophilic or hydrophilic), distinct from alkycellulose and in particular from ethylcellulose, perfumes, preservatives, neutralizers, sunscreens, sweeteners, vitamins, anti-free radical agents, sequestering agents, and mixtures thereof. Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional ingredients and / or their quantity so that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not or substantially not impaired by the addition envisaged. According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention may advantageously comprise: from 4 to 30% by weight of alkylcellulose, preferably ethylcellulose, from 15 to 60% by weight of water, from 0 to , 1 to 20% by weight of hydrophilic gelling agent (s), advantageously chosen from galactomannans and preferably guar or one of its derivatives, from 0.1 to 20% by weight glycerol, preferably from 0.1 to 3%, in gemini surfactant of formula (I), from 5 to 75% by weight of a first non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, and still more preferably a C10-C26 alcohol ( E), 5 to 60% by weight of non-volatile silicone oils (F).
[0062] A composition according to the invention may be more particularly a composition for makeup and / or care of keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or lips, and better lips. A composition according to the invention may constitute a liquid lipstick for the lips, a body makeup product, a facial or body care product or an antisolar product. According to a preferred embodiment, a composition of the invention is in liquid form. As an illustration of liquid formulations, mention may be made of lip gloss and / or more generally liquid lipsticks.
[0063] According to a preferred embodiment, a composition of the invention is a liquid lipstick. The composition according to the invention can be manufactured by known methods, generally used in the cosmetic or dermatological field.
[0064] Throughout the description, including the claims, the phrase "having one" should be understood as being synonymous with "having at least one", unless the opposite is specified. Expressions "between ... and ..." and "going from" must be understood as inclusive terms unless otherwise specified.
[0065] The following examples and figures are presented for illustrative and non-limiting purposes of the invention. EXAMPLE 1 The following liquid lip composition was prepared, the ingredients of which were summarized in the table below (the contents are expressed as a percentage by weight of active ingredient unless otherwise indicated): Compounds (Chemical name / commercial reference) content Ethylcellulose (dispersion in water - 30% solids, containing ethylcellulose, sodium lauryl sulfate, cetyl alcohol, Aquacoat ECD 30 from FMC Biopolymer) 24 * Octyldodecanol 24.6 Trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone (Belsil PDM Wacker 1000) 21.5 Behenyl alcohol (and) glyceryl stearate (and) disodium ethylene dicocamide peg-15 disulfate (and) glyceryl stearate citrate (Sasol Ceralution H) 3 Steareth-20 (Brij S20-PA- (SG) from Croda) 1 Glycerin 3 Compounds (Chemical name / trade reference) Polybutene content (Ineos Indopol H 1500) 3 Polymethylene wax (Cirebelle Cirebelle 505) 6 Hydroxypropyl guar (Rhodia JAGUAR HP 105) 0.2 A cetyl alcohol 4 Preservative qs Pigments / pearlescent agents 2.7 Ethanol 3 Water qs 100 * expressed as commercial product Preparation protocol 1) The aqueous dispersion of ethylcellulose was mixed with water and the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil (s) with Rayneri stirring and heated for 1h at 2h at 55 ° C. 2) The surfactant was added followed by hydroxypropyl guar, glycerin, and mixed with stirring at 55 ° C until the mixture was homogeneous. 3) The previously ground dyes were then added to a portion of the fat cake. 4) The silicone nonvolatile oil was then added, still stirring at 55 ° C. until the mixture was homogeneous, then stopped the heating. Finally, alcohol and phenoxy ethanol were added with stirring. 6) Stirring was then stopped and the mixture was conditioned in hot water bottles. 7) The compositions were allowed to stand for 24 hours at room temperature. The texture of this composition is particularly creamy and stable. It was further found that the deposit obtained from this composition was comfortable, and allowed to significantly increase the coverage over a composition not comprising glycerine. EXAMPLE 2 The following liquid lip composition was prepared, the ingredients of which were summarized in the table below (contents are expressed as percentage by weight of active ingredient unless otherwise indicated): Compounds (Chemical name / commercial reference ) content Ethylcellulose (dispersion in water - 30% solids, containing ethylcellulose, sodium lauryl sulfate, cetyl alcohol, FMC Biopolymer AQUACOAT ECD 30) 30.5 * Octyldodecanol 31 Trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone (BELSIL) Wacker PDM 1000) 21 3 sorbitant stearate and sucrose cocoate (Arlacel 2121 U croda) 3.8 glycerin 3 Hydroxypropyl guar (JAGUAR HP 105 Rhodia) 0.2 Ethanol 3 Pigments 0.16 Preservative qs Perfume qs Water qsp100 * expressed as a commercial product Preparation protocol of the composition: 1) The dyes were ground in part of the fatty phase. 2) The aqueous ethylcellulose dispersion was mixed with water and Rayneri stirred octyldodecanol and heated for 1h to 2h at 55 ° C. 3) The surfactant was added followed by hydroxypropyl guar, glycerin, and mixed with stirring at 55 ° C until the mixture was homogeneous. 4) The previously ground dyes were then added. 5) The silicone nonvolatile oil was then added with stirring at 55 ° C. until the mixture was homogeneous and then the heating was stopped. 6) Finally, the alcohol and the preservatives, the perfumes, were added with stirring. 7) Stirring was then stopped and the mixture was conditioned in hot water bottles. 8) The compositions were allowed to stand for 24 hours at room temperature. The texture of this composition is particularly creamy and stable.
[0066] It was further found that the deposit obtained from this composition was comfortable, and allowed to significantly increase the coverage compared to a composition not comprising glycerine.

权利要求:
Claims (24)
[0001]
REVENDICATIONS1. A cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising: (A) at least 5% by weight of water based on the total weight of the composition; (B) at least 4% by weight of alkylcellulose, the alkyl residue of which is between 2 and 6 carbon atoms; (C) at least one hydrophilic gelling agent chosen from polymers of natural origin, optionally modified; (D) at least one C2-C8 polyol, preferably C3-C6, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, comprising from 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups, (E) at least one first non-volatile hydrocarbon oil chosen from: C10-C26 alcohols, preferably monoalcohols; monoesters, diesters, triesters, optionally hydroxylated, of a C2-C5 mono or polycarboxylic acid and of a C2-C8 alcohol, optionally hydroxyl; esters of a C2-C8 polyol and of one or more C2-C8 carboxylic acids; and (F) at least one second non-volatile oil selected from silicone and / or fluorinated oils or hydrocarbon oils different from said first oil.
[0002]
2. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the alkylcellulose is present in a content ranging from 4 to 60% by weight, preferably from 4 to 50% by weight, better still from 5 to 30% by weight, and more preferably from 5 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0003]
3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the alkylcellulose is chosen from ethylcellulose and propylcellulose, preferably ethylcellulose.
[0004]
4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the first non-volatile hydrocarbon oils (E) are chosen from: lauric alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, erucic alcohol, alcohol. hexyldecyl, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol and mixtures thereof; the monoesters, optionally hydroxylated, of a C2-C8 carboxylic acid and of a C2-C8 alcohol; diester, optionally hydroxylated, of a C2-C8 dicarboxylic acid and of a C2-C8 alcohol, such as diisopropyl adipate, 2-diethylhexyl adipate, dibutyl adipate, or diisostearyl adipate; the optionally hydroxylated triesters of a C2-C8 carboxylic triacid and of a C2-C8 alcohol, such as citric acid esters, such as trioctyl citrate, triethyl citrate, acetyl tributyl citrate or tributyl citrate; acetyl tributyl citrate; esters of a C2-C8 polyol and of one or more C2-C8 carboxylic acids, such as glycol and monoacid diesters, such as neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, or triesters, glycol and monoacids such as triacetin.
[0005]
5. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the non-volatile hydrocarbon oils (E) are chosen from C 10 -C 26 alcohols, preferably monoalcohols, preferably chosen from lauryl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol and oleic alcohol. , erucic, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol and mixtures thereof, preferably octyldodecanol.
[0006]
6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the first non-volatile hydrocarbon oil or oils (E) are present in a content ranging from 5% to 75%, in particular from 10% to 50% by weight. preferably from 20 to 45% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0007]
7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the second or non-volatile oils (F) are chosen from phenyl silicone oils, preferably chosen from phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones and phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes. , diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicones, and mixtures thereof, and preferably trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicones.
[0008]
8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the second or non-volatile hydrocarbon oils (F) different from the oils (E) are chosen from: ester oils having at least 18 carbon atoms, as especially: monoesters comprising at least 18 carbon atoms, fatty acid monoesters comprising at least 18 carbon atoms and diols, diesters comprising at least 18 carbon atoms, hydroxyl monoesters and diesters comprising at least 18 carbon atoms, 18 carbon atoms * triesters comprising at least 35 carbon atoms * tetraesters comprising at least 35 carbon atoms * polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and diol * esters and polyesters of dimer diol and mono- or dicarboxylic acid * the polyesters resulting from the esterification of at least one triglyceride of carboxylic acid (s) hydroxylated with a monocarbo acid aliphatic xyl and an aliphatic dicarboxylic acid, optionally unsaturated * vegetable hydrocarbon oils * sucrose esters - oils comprising at least one carbonate function- mixtures thereof.
[0009]
9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a content ranging from 5 to 75% by weight of second (s) non-volatile oil (s) (F), in particular of 5 to 60% by weight, and more particularly 10 to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0010]
10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises from 5% to 80% by weight of water, preferably from 10% to 70% by weight, in particular from 15% to 60%. by weight, and more preferably from 20% to 50%, by weight, based on its total weight.
[0011]
11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from: - galactomannans and their derivatives, such as, carob gum, Fennugrec gum, cassia gum, gums guar and their derivatives; biopolysaccharide gums of microbial origin, such as scleroglucan or xanthan gums; gums derived from plant exudates such as Arabica, Ghatti, Karaya, Tragacanth, Carrageenan, Agar and Carob gums; pectins, alginates, starches; - their mixtures.
[0012]
12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from guar gums and their derivatives, preferably chosen from guar gum, hydroxypropylguar, hydroxypropylguar modified by groups. sodium methylcarboxylate, hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium guar chloride, xanthan derivatives, and mixtures thereof; preferably hydroxypropyl guar.
[0013]
13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hydrophilic gelling agent content represents from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, and more particularly from 0, 1 to 5% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
[0014]
14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyol content represents from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, and more particularly from 2 to 6% by weight. weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
[0015]
15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one anionic surfactant, preferably chosen from alkali metal alkyl sulphate and alkyl ether sulphates, having at least 12 carbon atoms, more particularly from 12 to 16 carbon atoms, and optionally comprising from 1 to 20 oxyethylenated units, and mixtures thereof.
[0016]
16. Composition according to the preceding claim characterized in that the anionic surfactant content is from 0.1 to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 1.5% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
[0017]
17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one nonionic surfactant, preferably chosen from alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sorbitan, preferably non-polyoxyethylenated; fatty alcohols, having at least 8 carbon atoms, and may contain from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene units; their mixtures.
[0018]
18. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the content of nonionic surfactant (s) represents from 0.5 to 10% by weight, preferably from 1 to 5% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
[0019]
19. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one gemini surfactant of formula (I): ## STR2 ## in which: R1 and R3 denote , independently of one another, an alkyl radical having from 1 to 25 carbon atoms; R2 denotes a spacer consisting of a linear or branched alkylene chain having from 1 to 12 carbon atoms; X and Y denote, independently of one another, a group - (C2H40) a- (C3H6O) bZ where * Z denotes a hydrogen atom or a radical -CH2-COOM, -SO3M, -P (O) (OM) 2, -C 2 H 4 -SO 3 M, -C 3 H 6 -SO 3 M or -CH 2 (CHOH) 4 CH 2 OH, where M, M 'represent H or an alkaline or alkaline earth or ammonium or alkanolammonium ion, from 0 to 15, - b ranges from 0 to 10, and the sum of a + b ranges from 1 to 25; and * n is from 1 to 10.
[0020]
20. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that it comprises a mixture of 10 to 20% by weight of Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 Sulfate, 30 to 40% by weight of glyceryl stearate, 10 to 20% by weight. weight of glyceryl monitrate stearate, 30 to 40% by weight of behenyl alcohol, relative to the total weight of the surfactant mixture containing the geminate surfactant.
[0021]
21. Composition according to any one of claims 19 and 20 characterized in that the gemini surfactant of formula (I) is present in a content ranging from 1 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from from 0.2 to 2% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
[0022]
22. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one dyestuff.
[0023]
23. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said composition is a composition for makeup and / or care of keratinous substances, in particular lips.
[0024]
24. A cosmetic process for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, in particular the lips, comprising at least one step consisting in applying to said keratinous materials at least one composition as defined according to any one of the preceding claims.

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同族专利:

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公开号 | 公开日

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JP2017500352A|2017-01-05|

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WO2015097181A1|2015-07-02|

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EP3086761A1|2016-11-02|

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FR3015249B1|2017-08-25|

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KR20160096203A|2016-08-12|

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EP3086761B1|2018-05-16|

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ES2676293T3|2018-07-18|

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US20160361242A1|2016-12-15|

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CN105828790A|2016-08-03|

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法律状态:
2015-11-10| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 3 |

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2016-11-11| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 4 |

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2017-11-13| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 5 |

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2019-11-15| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 7 |

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2020-11-12| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 8 |

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2021-11-15| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 9 |

优先权:

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申请号 | 申请日 | 专利标题

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FR1363420A|FR3015249B1|2013-12-23|2013-12-23|AQUEOUS COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING ALKYLCELLULOSE, NON-VOLATILE OILS, A HYDROPHILIC GELIFYING POLYMER AND A POLYOL|FR1363420A| FR3015249B1|2013-12-23|2013-12-23|AQUEOUS COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING ALKYLCELLULOSE, NON-VOLATILE OILS, A HYDROPHILIC GELIFYING POLYMER AND A POLYOL|

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PCT/EP2014/079066| WO2015097181A1|2013-12-23|2014-12-22|Aqueous cosmetic composition comprising alkylcellulose, non-volatile oils, a hydrophilic gelling polymer and a polyol|

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CN201480070573.XA| CN105828790A|2013-12-23|2014-12-22|Aqueous cosmetic composition comprising alkylcellulose, non-volatile oils, a hydrophilic gelling polymer and a polyol|

---

US15/107,305| US20160361242A1|2013-12-23|2014-12-22|Aqueous cosmetic composition comprising alkylcellulose, non-volatile oils, a hydrophilic gelling polymer and a polyol|

---

EP14819010.1A| EP3086761B1|2013-12-23|2014-12-22|Aqueous cosmetic composition comprising alkylcellulose, non-volatile oils, a hydrophilic gelling polymer and a polyol|

---

KR1020167020059A| KR20160096203A|2013-12-23|2014-12-22|Aqueous cosmetic composition comprising alkylcellulose, non-volatile oils, a hydrophilic gelling polymer and a polyol|

---

JP2016542143A| JP2017500352A|2013-12-23|2014-12-22|Aqueous cosmetic composition comprising alkyl cellulose, non-volatile oil, hydrophilic gelling polymer and polyol|

---

ES14819010.1T| ES2676293T3|2013-12-23|2014-12-22|Aqueous cosmetic composition comprising alkyl cellulose, nonvolatile oils, a hydrophobic gelling polymer and a polyol|