A CAPILLARY COLORING PROCESS USING AT LEAST ONE ORTHODIPHENOL, AN ORGANIC TITANIUM SALT AND CARBOXYL

专利摘要:
The present invention relates to a method for dyeing keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers such as the hair, in which said fibers are treated from one or more cosmetic compositions comprising a) one or more orthodiphenol (s), b ) one or more organic salt (s) of titanium and at least one carboxylic acid and c) optionally one or more chemical oxidizing agent (s) such as peroxide of hydrogen or one or more system (s) generator (s) of hydrogen peroxide.
公开号:FR3014681A1
申请号:FR1362579
申请日:2013-12-13
公开日:2015-06-19
发明作者:Boris Lalleman；Alain Lagrange
申请人:LOreal SA；
IPC主号:

专利说明:

[0001] The present invention relates to a method for dyeing keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers such as the hair, in which said fibers are present in the form of a hair dye, which is at least one of ortho-diphenol, an organic titanium and carboxylic acid salt. treated with one or more cosmetic compositions comprising a) one or more orthodiphenol (s), b) one or more salt (s) of titanium and of organic acid, in particular carboxylic acid and c) optionally one or more chemical oxidizing agent (s) such as hydrogen peroxide or one or more hydrogen peroxide generator system (s). It is known to obtain so-called "permanent" dyes with dyeing compositions containing oxidation dye precursors, generally called oxidation bases, such as ortho- or para-phenylenediamines, ortho- or para-aminophenols and compounds. heterocyclic. These oxidation bases are colorless or weakly colored compounds which, when combined with oxidizing products, can give rise to colored compounds by a process of oxidative condensation. It is also known that the shades obtained can be varied by combining these oxidation bases with couplers or color modifiers, the latter being chosen in particular from aromatic meta-diamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols and certain heterocyclic compounds such as indole compounds. This oxidation dyeing process consists in applying to the keratinous fibers, bases or a mixture of bases and couplers with hydrogen peroxide (H 2 O 2 or hydrogen peroxide) as an oxidizing agent, to be allowed to diffuse, then to rinse the fibers. The resulting colorations are permanent, strong, and resistant to external agents, including light, weather, washing, perspiration and friction. However, commercial hair colourants that contain them generally have the disadvantage of staining clothing, lead to odor and comfort problems, and degrade keratin fibers. This is particularly the case with oxidation dyes. In the field of coloring, it is also known to color keratin materials such as hair or skin from orthodiphenol compounds in the presence of a metal salt, especially manganese (Mn) and / or zinc (Zn) . In particular, the patent applications FR 2814943, FR 2814945, FR 2814946 and FR 2814947 provide compositions for coloring the skin or keratinous fibers, comprising a dye precursor which contains at least one orthodiphenol, salts and oxides of Mn. and / or Zn, alkaloids of hydrogen carbonate type in a particular ratio Mn, Zn / hydrogen carbonate and optionally an enzyme. According to these documents, it is possible to obtain dyes of keratin materials with oxygen from the air or any system generating oxygen. However, the colorations obtained are insufficiently powerful, intense and / or are not very stubborn, especially in the case of hair fibers. Furthermore, it is known to use acid-level metals for dyeing keratinous fibers in amounts similar to those used for dyes by using an etching process, which consists in preparing the fibers before dyeing to to obtain stubborn hues (Ullmann's Encyclopedia "Metal and Dyes", 2005 § 5.1, p 8). However, this process generally has the disadvantage of not always respecting the cosmetics of the keratin fiber. Other documents describe the use of orthodiphenols associated with salts of Mn, Zn and other metal salts including titanium salts and a chemical oxidizing agent (FR297673, WO2011 / 086284, WO2011 / 086282, and FR2951374) . Nevertheless, improvements still need to be made, especially in terms of color tenacity with regard to shampoos and sweat. There is therefore a real need to develop staining processes that make it possible to obtain more powerful and / or stubborn stains from orthodiphenols, in particular from natural extracts rich in orthodiphenols and less aggressive for keratinous fibers. In particular, there is a need to obtain colorings which are satisfactorily resistant to external agents (light, bad weather, shampoos, sweat) which are stubborn and homogeneous, ie having a low selectivity of the coloration between the root and the tip, while remaining powerful and / or chromatic. This goal (s) is (are) achieved by the present invention which relates to a process for dyeing keratinous fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, in which said fibers are treated, in one or more steps, by one or more cosmetic compositions containing, taken together or separately in the one or more compositions, the following ingredients: a) one or more orthodiphenol (s); b) one or more organic titanium salt (s), in which Titanium is in particular of oxidation state 2, 3 or 4 denoted Ti (II), Ti (III) or Ti (IV), preferably Ti (IV) b1) optionally one or more carboxylic acid (s) of formula (I) below; A formula (I) or a salt thereof in which: -A represents a monovalent group when n is 0 or polyvalent when n is greater than or equal to 1, hydrocarbon comprising 1 to 50 carbon atoms, saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or non-cyclic, aromatic or non-aromatic, OH optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms and / or optionally substituted in particular with one or more hydroxyl groups; preferably A represents a monovalent (C1-C6) alkyl or polyvalent (CiC6) alkylene group optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups; n represents an integer inclusive between 0 and 10, preferably n is between 0 and 5, such as between 0 and 2; c) optionally one or more chemical oxidizing agent (s), especially chosen from hydrogen peroxide or one or more hydrogen peroxide generator system (s); it being understood that at least one of the compositions used in the dyeing process is at acidic pH, ie less than 7.0, preferably less than 5, particularly at a pH between 0 and 4. Preferably, the or the compositions used in the process of the invention are (are) aqueous (s).
[0002] Another subject of the invention is a cosmetic composition comprising ingredients a), b) and optionally c) as defined above. Another object of the present invention relates to a multi-compartment device comprising the ingredients a), b), c) and possibly d) distributed in several compartments.
[0003] The multi-compartment device or "kit" is suitable for carrying out the coloring process according to the invention. The process according to the invention has the advantage of coloring human keratin fibers, with stubborn coloring results. In particular, the dyeing method according to the invention makes it possible to lead to colorings resistant to washing, transpiration, sebum and light without altering the fibers. The resistance to perspiration is particularly good. In addition, the coloring process used makes it possible to induce a "rise" and / or power of the satisfactory coloration. Other objects, features, aspects and advantages of the present invention will become more apparent upon reading the description and examples which follow. a) the orthodiphenol (s) According to the present invention, the dyeing process uses a) one or more orthodiphenol (s). The orthodiphenol (s) may be present in one or more cosmetic compositions used during the dyeing process. The invention relates to one or more ortho-diphenol (s) or mixtures of compounds comprising one or more aromatic rings of which at least one is a benzene ring substituted by at least two hydroxy groups (OH) carried by two adjacent carbon atoms of said benzene group. being present in the structure of the orthodiphenol (s). The aromatic ring is more particularly a condensed aryl ring or fused heteroaromatic ring, optionally containing one or more heteroatoms, such as benzene, naphthalene, tetrahydronaphthalene, indane, indene, anthracene, phenanthrene or indole. , isoindole, indoline, isoindoline, benzofuran, dihydrobenzofuran, chroman, isochromane, chromene, isochromene, quinoline, tetrahydroquinoline and isoquinoline, said aromatic ring comprising at least two hydroxy groups carried by two adjacent carbon atoms of the aromatic ring. Preferably, the aromatic ring of orthodiphenol derivatives according to the invention is a benzene ring. By "condensed ring" is meant that at least two saturated or unsaturated cycles, heterocyclic or otherwise, have a common bond, that is to say that at least one cycle is attached to another cycle.
[0004] Orthodiphenols according to the invention may be salified or not. They can also be in the form of aglygone (without bound sugar) or in the form of glycosylated compounds. More particularly, the ortho-diphenol (s) a) represents a compound of formula (II), or one of its oligomers, tautomers, optical isomers, geometric isomers, as well as its salts or its solvates such as hydrates: OH formula (II) in which: R1 to R4, which may be identical or different, represent: i) a hydrogen atom, ii) halogen, or a group chosen from iii) hydroxy, iv) carboxy, y) carboxylate; C- (C20) alkyl or (C1-C20) alkoxycarbonyl, vi) optionally substituted amino, vii) C20) optionally substituted linear or branched alkyl, viii) (C2-C20) optionally substituted linear or branched alkenyl, ix) optionally substituted cycloalkyl, x) C2o) alkoxy, xi) (C1-C20) alkoxy (C1-C20) alkyl, xii) (C1-C20) alkoxyaryl, xiii) optionally substituted aryl, xiv) aryl, xv) substituted aryl, xvi) heterocyclic , saturated or not, with or without a cationic or anionic charge, optionally substituted and / or evolved ntually condensed with an aromatic ring preferably benzene, said aromatic ring being optionally substituted especially by one or more hydroxyl or glycosyloxy groups, xvii) a radical containing one or more silicon atoms; or two of the substituents carried by two adjacent carbon atoms R1 - R2, R2 - R3 or R3 - R4 together with the carbon atoms carrying them a saturated or unsaturated ring, aromatic or otherwise, optionally containing one or more heteroatoms and optionally condensed with one or more saturated or unsaturated rings optionally containing one or more heteroatoms. In particular, the compound of formula (II) comprises from one to four rings. A particular embodiment of the invention relates to one or more orthodiphenol (s) of formula (II), two adjacent substituents R1 - R2, R2 - R3 or R3 - R4 can not form with the carbon atoms which carry them a radical pyrrolyl. According to a variant, R2 and R3 form a pyrrolyl or pyrrolidinyl radical fused to the benzene ring bearing the two hydroxyls. For the purposes of the present invention, and unless a different indication is given: the saturated or unsaturated rings, optionally condensed, may also be optionally substituted; the "alkyl" radicals are saturated, linear or branched, generally C 1 -C 20, especially C 1 -C 10, hydrocarbon radicals, preferably C 1 -C 6 alkyl radicals, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or pentyl radicals; and hexyl; the "alkenyl" radicals are hydrocarbon radicals, linear or branched, unsaturated C 2 -C 20; preferably comprising at least one double bond such as ethylene, propylene, butylene, pentylene, methyl-2-propylene and decylene; the "aryl" radicals are mono- or polycyclic carbon radicals, condensed or not, preferably comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and of which at least one ring is aromatic; preferentially chosen from the aryl radical is phenyl, biphenyl, naphthyl, indenyl, anthracenyl, and tetrahydronaphthyl; the radicals "alkoxy" are alkyl-oxy radicals with alkyl as defined above, preferably C 1 -C 10, such as methoxy, ethoxy, propoxy and butoxy; the "alkoxyalkyl" radicals are (C1-C20) alkoxy (C1-C20) alkyl radicals, such as methoxymethyl, ethoxymethyl, methoxyethyl, ethoxyethyl, and the like; the "cycloalkyl" radicals are C 4 -C 8 cycloalkyl radicals, preferably the cyclopentyl and cyclohexyl radicals; the cycloalkyl radicals may be substituted cycloalkyl radicals, in particular with alkyl, alkoxy, carboxylic acid, hydroxy, amine and ketone groups; the radicals "alkyl" or "alkenyl" when they are "optionally substituted" may be substituted by at least one atom or group carried by at least one carbon atom, chosen from: i) halogen; ii) hydroxy; iii) (C1-C2) alkoxy; iv) (ClCio) alkoxycarbonyl; v) (poly) hydroxy (C2-C4) alkoxy; vi) amino; vii) 5- or 6-membered heterocycloalkyl; viii) optionally cationic 5- or 6-membered heteroaryl, preferably imidazolium, and optionally substituted with a (ClC4) alkyl radical, preferably methyl; ix) amino substituted with one or two identical or different C 1 -C 6 alkyl radicals optionally carrying at least: a) a hydroxyl group, b) an amino group optionally substituted with one or two (C 1 -C 3) alkyl radicals optionally substituted, said alkyl radicals being able to form, with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, an optionally substituted 5 to 7-membered heterocyclic ring, saturated or unsaturated, optionally comprising at least one other heteroatom which is different from or different from nitrogen, ) a quaternary ammonium group -N + R'R "R-, M- for which R ', R", R ", which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group, and M- represents the counter-ion of the organic acid, mineral or of the corresponding halide, d) or a 5- or 6-membered optionally cationic heteroaryl radical, preferentially imidazolium, and optionally substituted with a (C1-C4) alkyl radical, preferentially methyl e; x) acylamino (-N (R) -C (O) -R ') in which the radical R is a hydrogen atom, a (C1-C4) alkyl radical optionally bearing at least one hydroxyl group and the radical R 'is a C1-02 alkyl radical; a carbamoyl radical ((R) 2 N-C (O) -) in which the radicals R, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a (C 1 -C 4) alkyl radical optionally bearing at least one hydroxyl group; xi) alkylsulphonylamino (R'-S (O) 2 -N (R) -) in which the radical R represents a hydrogen atom, a (C1-C4) alkyl radical optionally carrying at least one hydroxyl group and the radical R 'represents a (C1-C4) alkyl radical, a phenyl radical; xii) aminosulphonyl ((R) 2N-S (O) 2-) in which the R radicals, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a (C 1 -C 4) alkyl radical optionally carrying at least one chosen group among a) hydroxy, b) carboxy-O (O) -OH in acid or salified form (preferably with an alkali metal or ammonium, substituted or unsubstituted); xiii) cyano; xiv) nitro; xv) carboxy or glycosylcarbonyl; xvi) phenylcarbonyloxy optionally substituted with one or more hydroxy groups; xvii) glycosyloxy; and phenyl optionally substituted with one or more hydroxy groups. the "aryl" or "heterocyclic" radicals or the aryl or heterocyclic radical radicals when they are "optionally substituted" may be substituted by at least one atom or group borne by at least one carbon atom chosen from: (01-C10) alkyl, preferably at 01-08, optionally substituted by one or more radicals chosen from hydroxyl, (C1-C2) alkoxy, (poly) -hydroxyalkoxy C2-04, acylamino, amino substituted by two radicals; C 1 -C 4 alkyl radicals, which may be identical or different, optionally carrying at least one hydroxyl group, or both radicals being able to form, with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a heterocycle comprising from 5 to 7 ring members, preferably 5 or 6-membered, optionally substituted saturated or unsaturated optionally comprising another heteroatom identical to or different from nitrogen; ii) halogen; iii) hydroxy; iv) C 1 -C 2 alkoxy; v) C1-C10 alkoxycarbonyl; vi) (poly) hydroxyalkoxy C2-04; vii) amino; viii) 5- or 6-membered heterocycloalkyl; ix) optionally cationic 5- or 6-membered heteroaryl, preferably imidazolium, and optionally substituted by a (C1-C4) alkyl radical, preferentially methyl; x) amino substituted with one or two identical or different C 1 -C 6 alkyl radicals optionally carrying at least: a) a hydroxy, b) amino group optionally substituted by one or two optionally substituted C 1 -C 3 alkyl radicals, said alkyl radicals being able to form, with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, an optionally substituted 5 to 7-membered heterocycle comprising saturated or unsaturated optionally comprising at least one other heteroatom different or different from nitrogen, c) a group quaternary ammonium - N + R'R "R" ', M- for which R', R ", which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, or a C1-C4 alkyl group, and M- represents the counter-ion; the corresponding organic, inorganic acid or halide, d) a 5- or 6-membered optionally cationic heteroaryl radical, preferably imidazolium, and optionally substituted with a (C1-C4) alkyl radical, preferably methyl; (xi) acyl mino (-N (R) -C (O) -R ') in which the radical R is a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl radical optionally bearing at least one hydroxyl group and the radical R' is a C1-C2 alkyl radical; xii) carbamoyl ((R) 2 N-C (O) -) in which the radicals R, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical optionally carrying at least one hydroxyl group; xiii) alkylsulphonylamino (R'S (O) 2 -N (R) -) in which the radical R represents a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical optionally bearing at least one hydroxyl group and the radical R 'represents a C1-C4 alkyl radical, a phenyl radical; xiv) aminosulphonyl ((R) 2N-S (O) 2-) in which the radicals R, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical optionally bearing at least one hydroxyl group, xv) carboxy in acid or salified form (preferably with an alkali metal or ammonium, substituted or unsubstituted); (xvi) cyano; xvii) nitro; xviii) polyhaloalkyl, preferentially trifluoromethyl; xix) glycosylcarbonyl; xx) a phenylcarbonyloxy group optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups; xxi) a glycosyloxy group; and xxii) phenyl optionally substituted with one or more hydroxy groups. - By "glycosyl" radical is meant in the sense of the present invention a radical derived from a mono or polysaccharide; the radicals "containing one or more silicon atoms" are preferably poly-dimethylsiloxane, poly-diphenylsiloxane, poly-dimethylphenylsiloxane or stearoxydimethicone radicals; the "heterocyclic" radicals are radicals comprising in at least one ring one or more heteroatoms chosen in particular from O, N and S, preferably O or N, optionally substituted with in particular one or more alkyl, alkoxy, carboxy or hydroxy groups; amine or ketone. These rings may contain one or more oxo groups on the carbon atoms of the heterocycle; among the heterocyclic radicals which may be used, mention may be made especially of furyl, pyranyl, pyrrolyl, imidazolyl, pyrazolyl, pyridyl and thienyl groups; still more preferably, the heterocyclic groups are fused groups such as benzofuranyl, chromenyl, xanthenyl, indolyl, isoindolyl, quinolyl, isoquinolyl, chromannyl, isochromannyl, indolinyl, isoindolinyl, coumarinyl, isocoumarinyl, these groups may be substituted, in particular by one or more OH groups. The ortho-diphenol (s) useful in the process of the invention can be natural or synthetic. Natural orthodiphenols include compounds that may be present in nature and are reproduced by (hemi) chemical synthesis. The salts of the orthodiphenols of the invention may be salts of acids or bases. The acids can be mineral or organic. Preferably, the acid is hydrochloric acid which leads to chlorides. By "basifying agents" is meant the bases as defined for e) may be mineral or organic. Especially the bases are alkali hydroxides such as sodium hydroxide which leads to sodium salts. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises as ingredient a) one or more synthetic orthodiphenol (s) which do not exist in nature. According to another preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition that is useful in the process for staining keratin fibers comprises as ingredient a) one or more natural orthodiphenol (s).
[0005] More particularly, the one or more orthodiphenol (s) that may be used in the process of the invention according to a) (is) are in particular: flavanols such as catechin and epichatechin gallate, flavonols such as quercetin anthocyanidins such as cyanidin, delphinidin, petunidine, anthocyanins or anthocyanins such as myrtillin, orthohydroxybenzoates, for example salts of gallic acid, flavones such as luteolin, hydroxystilbenes, for example tetrahydroxy-3,3 ', 4,5'-stilbene, optionally oxylated (for example glucosylated), 3,4-dihydroxyphenylalanine and its derivatives, 2,3-dihydroxyphenylalanine and its derivatives, 4,5 -dihydroxyphenylalanine and its derivatives, - dihydroxycinnamates such as caffeic acid and chlorogenic acid, - orthopolyhydroxycoumarines, - orthopolyhydroxyisocoumarines, - orthopolyhydroxycoumarones, - orthopolyhydroxyisocoumarones, - orthopolyhyds roxychalcones, - orthopolyhydroxychromones, - quinones, - hydroxyxanthones, - 1,2 dihydroxybenzene and its derivatives, - 1,2,4 trihydroxybenzene and its derivatives, - 1,2,3 trihydroxybenzene and its derivatives, - the 2,4,5 trihydroxytoluene and its derivatives, proanthocyanidins and in particular proanthocyanidines A1, A2, B1, B2, B3 and C1, chromium and chromenic compounds proathocyanins, tannic acid, ellagic acid and mixtures of the foregoing compounds. By orthodiphenol compounds "chromenic or chromium" is meant according to the invention, orthodiphenols which comprise in their structure at least one bicycle of formula (A) below: (A) the intracyclic bond representing a single carbon-carbon bond or a carbon-carbon double bond, as illustrated by the formula (A1) denoting the family of chromenes and the formula (A2) denoting the chroman family below: (A1) (A2) More particularly, the ortho-diphenols of the invention are of formula (A) and preferably selected from dyes of the following formulas: - formula (III), comprising in its structure the bicycle of formula (A2), R4 OH as well as its tautomeric and / or mesomeric forms, its stereoisomers, its addition salts with a cosmetically acceptable acid or base, and its hydrates; Formula (III) in which: - - represents a single carbon-carbon bond or a carbon-carbon double bond, the linking of these bonds denotes two single carbon-carbon bonds and two carbon-carbon double bonds, said bonds being conjugated, X represents a group: HO-C or O = C-R1, R2, R3, R4, R5 and R6, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl group, an optionally substituted alkyl group, alkoxy group; optionally substituted, or an optionally substituted acyloxy group; and - formula (IV), comprising in its structure the bicycle of formula (A1): OR12 OR13 R14 OR16 R18 (IV) as well as its tautomeric and / or mesomeric forms, its stereoisomers, its addition salts with an acid or a cosmetically acceptable base, and its hydrates; Formula (IV) in which: - R11, R12, R13, R16, R19 and R20, which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl radical, and - R14, R15, R17 and R18, which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl radical or a C1-C4 alkoxy radical. Regarding the orthodiphenols of formula (III) as defined above, these may be in two tautomeric forms noted (IIIa) and (IIIb): ## STR2 ## The alkyl radicals cited in the preceding definitions of the substituents are hydrocarbon radicals, saturated, linear or branched, generally C 1 -C 20, particularly C 1 -C 10, preferably C 1 -C 6, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, pentyl and hexyl. The alkoxy radicals are alkyl-oxy radicals with the alkyl radicals as defined above, and preferably the alkoxy radicals are C1-C10, such as methoxy, ethoxy, propoxy and butoxy. The alkyl or alkoxy radicals, when substituted, may be substituted with at least one substituent carried by at least one carbon atom chosen from: i) a halogen atom; or a group ii) hydroxy, iii) C 1 -C 2 alkoxy, iv) C 1 -C 10 alkoxycarbonyl, C 2 -C 4 (poly) -hydroxyalkoxy, vi) amino, vii) 5 or 6 membered heterocycloalkyl, viii) heteroaryl to 5 or 6-membered optionally cationic, preferably imidazolium, and optionally substituted with a (C1-C4) alkyl radical, preferably methyl; ix) an amino radical substituted with one or two identical or different C 1 -C 6 alkyl radicals optionally carrying at least: a) a hydroxyl group; b) an amino group optionally substituted with one or two C 1 -C 6 alkyl radicals; C3 optionally substituted, said alkyl radicals being able to form, with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, an optionally substituted 5 to 7-membered heterocyclic ring, saturated or unsaturated optionally comprising at least one other heteroatom different or different from nitrogen, c) a quaternary ammonium group - N + R'R "R" ', M- for which R', R ", which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, or a C1-C4 alkyl group; and M- represents the counterion of the organic acid, mineral or of the corresponding halide, d) or a 5- or 6-membered optionally cationic heteroaryl radical, preferably imidazolium, and optionally substituted by a (C 1 -C 4) alkyl radical, referentially methyl, x) an acylamino radical (-NR-COR ') in which the radical R is a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl radical optionally carrying at least one hydroxyl group; and the radical R 'is a C1-C2 alkyl radical; xi) a carbamoyl radical ((R) 2N-CO-) in which the R radicals, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical optionally bearing at least one hydroxyl group; xii) an alkylsulphonylamino radical (R'SO2-NR-) in which the radical R represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl radical optionally bearing at least one hydroxyl group and the radical R 'represents an alkyl radical; C1-C4 a phenyl radical; xiii) an aminosulphonyl radical ((R) 2 N -SO 2 -) in which the R radicals, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical optionally bearing at least one hydroxyl group; (xiv) a carboxylic radical in acid or salt form (preferably with an alkali metal or ammonium, substituted or unsubstituted); xv) a cyano group; (xvi) a nitro group; xvi) a carboxy or glycosylcarbonyl group; xvii) a phenylcarbonyloxy group optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups; xviii) a glycosyloxy group; and xix) a phenyl group optionally substituted with one or more hydroxy groups. By glycosyl radical is meant a radical derived from a mono or polysaccharide. Preferably, the alkyl or alkoxy radicals of formula (III) are unsubstituted. According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the dyes of formula (III) comprise an R 6 radical representing a hydroxyl group. Another particular embodiment of the invention relates to orthodiphenols of formula (III), for which the radical R1 represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyl group. More particularly, the composition according to the invention may comprise one or more orthodiphenol (s) of formula (III) chosen from hematoxylin, haematein, brazilin and braziline. HO O HO HO Hemeinine Brazilean HO HO OH HO Hematoxylin (Natural Black 1 - Braziline (Natural Red 24 - CAS 517-28-2) CAS 474-07-7) BRAZILINE is a conjugated form of a chromanic compound of formula (A2). The diagram below shows the tautomeric structures (111a) and (111b) illustrated above. Among the orthodiphenols of the hematoxylin / haematin and brazilin / brazilein type, mention may be made by way of example of hematoxylin (Natural Black 1 according to the INCI name) and brazilin (Natural Red 24 according to the INCI name). , dyes of the family of indochromanes, which are commercially available. These may exist in an oxidized form and be obtained by synthesis or by extraction of plants or plants known to be rich in these dyes. Orthodiphenols of formula (III) can be used in the form of extracts. The following plant extracts (genus and species) may be used: Haematoxylon campechianum, Haematoxylon brasiletto, Caesalpinia echinata, Caesalpinia sappan, Caesalpinia spinosa, and Caesalpina Brasiliensis. The extracts are obtained by extraction of various parts of plants, such as, for example, the root, the wood, the bark or the leaf. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, natural orthodiphenols of formula (I) are derived from logwood wood, pernambuco wood, sappan wood and brazil wood. As regards the orthodiphenols of formula (IV), the ortho-diphenols used in the present invention are preferably those for which R 11 and R 13 represent an alkyl radical, preferably methyl.
[0006] Preferably, R12, R16, R19 and R20 denote, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom or an alkyl radical, preferably methyl. Preferably, R14 and R17 denote, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom or an alkoxy radical, preferably methoxy. Preferably, R 18 and R 15 denote, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl radical or an alkoxy radical, preferably methoxy. A particularly preferred first family of orthodiphenols suitable for the present invention is that of the dyes of formula (II) above for which R12, R15, R16, R17, R19 and R20 each represent a hydrogen atom. R11 and R13 each represent a methyl radical and R14 represents a methoxy radical. Among the preferred orthodiphenols of this first family are those for which R 18 represents a methoxy (santaline B) or hydroxy (santaline A) radical. A second particularly preferred family of orthodiphenols suitable for the present invention is that of the dyes of formula (IV) above for which: - R11 and R13 each represent a methyl radical, - R17 represents the methoxy radical. A preferred dye of this second family is that for which, in addition, R19 represents a methyl radical, R20, R12, R14, R18 and R16 each represent a hydrogen atom, and R15 represents the hydroxyl radical (santarubine A). A second preferred dye of this second family is that for which R18, R20, R12, R14 and R16 represent a hydrogen atom, R15 represents a methoxy radical and R19 represents a methyl radical (Santarubine B).
[0007] A third family of preferred orthodiphenols of this second family is that for which R20, R12, R14, R15, R16 and R19 represent hydrogen and R18 represents the hydroxyl radical (santarubine C). Another preferred orthodiphenol of this second family is that for which R15 represents a methoxy radical, and R18 and R14 represent a hydrogen atom and R20, R12, R16 and R19 represent a methyl radical (tetra-O-methylcantarubine). Orthodiphenols of formula (IV) can be used in the form of extracts. Redwood plant extracts can be used, generally including Asian and West African redwood species of the genus Pterocarpus and the genus Baphia. These woods are, for example, Pterocarpus santalinus, Pterocarpus osun, Pterocarpus soyauxii, Pterocarpus erinaceus, Pterocarpus indicus or Baphia nitida. These woods can still be called padauk, sandalwood (sandalwood), narrawood, camwood or barwood. Thus, usable extracts containing orthodiphenols of formula (II) in the present invention may for example be obtained from red sandalwood (Pterocarpus santalinus), by aqueous basic extraction, such as the product sold under the trade name Sandalwood Concentrate. SL 709C by the company COPIAA or else by means of a solvent extraction of sandalwood powder such as the product sold under the trade name Sandalwood Powder SL PP by the same company COPIAA. We can also mention the hydroalcoholic extract of Sandalwood powder red ALBAN MULLER company. Extracts also suitable for the present invention can be obtained from woods such as Camwood (Baphia nitida) or Barwood (Pterocarpus soyauxii, Pterocarpus erinaceus): the latter is thus fractionated and then ground: a conventional alcoholic extraction or by percolation is then carried out on this ground material to collect a powdery extract particularly suitable for the implementation of the present invention. The orthodiphenol salts of formula (III) and (IV) of the invention may be cosmetically acceptable acid or base salts. The acids can be mineral or organic. Preferably, the acid is hydrochloric acid leading to the chlorides. The bases can be mineral or organic. Especially the bases are alkali hydroxides, such as sodium hydroxide leading to sodium salts. Preferably, the or orthodiphenols of formula (III) and (IV) included in the composition according to the invention are derived from plant extracts. It is also possible to use mixtures of plant extracts. The natural extracts of orthodiphenols according to the invention may be in the form of powders or liquids. Preferably, the extracts are in powder form. Especially the orthodiphenols of the invention are comprised of catechin, quercetin, brazilin, haematein, hematoxylin, chlorogenic, caffeic, gallic acids, catechol, gallic acid, L DOPA, pelargonidine, cyanidine, (-) -Epicatechin, (-) - Epigallocatechin, (-) - Epigallocatechin 3-gallate (EGCG), (+) - Catechin, Isoquercetin, Pomiferin, esculetin, 6,7-Dihydroxy-3- (3-hydroxy-2,4-hydroxypropyl) dimethoxyphenyl) coumarin. Santalin AC, Mangiferine, Butein, Maritimetine, Sulfuretine, Robtein, Betanidine, Pericampylinone A, Theaflavin, Proanthocyanidin A2, Proanthocyanidin B2, ProanthocyanidinCl, Procyanidins DP 4-8, Tannic Acid, Purpurogalline, 5,6-Dihydroxy-2-methyl -1,4-naphthoquinone, Alizarin, Wedelolactone, Variegatic acid, Gomphidic acid, Xerocomic acid, Carnosol, and natural extracts containing them. Preferably, the orthodiphenols of the invention are chromenic or chromanic and are chosen from haematein, hematoxylin, brasiline, brasiline, santaline A. By "carboxylate" is meant carboxylic acid salt. When the dye precursors have D and L forms, both forms can be used in the compositions according to the invention, as well as the racemates. According to one embodiment, natural orthodiphenols are derived from extracts of animals, bacteria, fungi, algae, plants and fruits used in whole or in part. In particular concerning the plants the extracts are from fruits including citrus fruits, vegetables, trees, shrubs. It is also possible to use mixtures of these extracts, rich in ortho-diphenols as defined above. Preferably, the natural orthodiphenol (s) of the invention are derived from plant extracts or parts of plants. Within the meaning of the invention, these extracts will be assimilated as compounds a). Extracts are obtained by extraction of various parts of plants such as for example root, wood, bark, leaf, flower, fruit, seed, pod, peel.
[0008] Among the plant extracts, there may be mentioned the extracts of tea leaves, rose. Among the fruit extracts, mention may be made of extracts of apple, grapes (in particular grape seeds), or extracts of beans and / or pods of cocoa. Among the vegetable extracts, there may be mentioned potato extracts, onion peels. Among the extracts of wood of trees, one can quote the extracts of bark of pine, extracts of logwood. It is also possible to use mixtures of plant extracts. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the orthodiphenol derivative (s) are natural extracts rich in orthodiphenols. According to a preferred embodiment, the orthodiphenol derivative (s) are only natural extracts. Preferably, the ortho-diphenol (s) according to the invention is (are) chosen from catechin, quercetin, haematein, hematoxylin, brasiline, brasiline, gallic acid, tannic acid and natural extracts containing them selected from grape marc, pine bark, green tea, onion, cocoa bean, logwood, red wood and gall-nut. More preferentially, the ortho-diphenol (s) of the invention is (are) chosen from: - haematein, brazileine, gallic acid, tannic acid, when the dyeing process does not no use of chemical oxidizing agent; or else - hematoxylin, brasiline, gallic acid, tannic acid, when the dyeing process uses a chemical oxidizing agent The natural extracts according to the invention may be in the form of powders or liquids. Preferably, the extracts of the invention are in the form of powders. According to the invention, the synthetic orthodiphenol (s), natural (s), and / or the natural extract (s) used as ingredient (a) in one or more compositions ( s) cosmetic (s) useful (s) in the process according to the invention is (are) preferably from 0.001% to 20% by weight of the total weight of the composition (s) containing the orthodiphenol (s) or the extract (s) . As regards pure ortho-diphenols, the content in the composition or compositions containing them is preferably between 0.001 and 5% by weight of each of these compositions. With regard to the extracts, the content in the composition or compositions containing the extracts as such is preferably between 0.5 and 20% by weight of each of these compositions. B) the titanium salt (s): According to one particular embodiment, ingredient b) used in the composition and process of the invention is at least one titanium salt and is preferably ) optionally at least one carboxylic acid of formula (I). For the purposes of the present invention, the term "organic titanium salt" is intended to mean the salts themselves resulting from the action of at least one organic acid on Ti. By "organic acid" is meant an acid ie a compound capable of releasing a cation or proton H +, or H30 + in aqueous media, which comprises at least one hydrocarbon chain C1-C20, optionally unsaturated, linear or branched, a group (hetero ) cycloalkyl, or (hetero) aryl and at least one acidic chemical function being in particular selected from carboxy COOH, sulfuric 503H, 502H, and phosphoric PO31-12, PO4H2. Particularly the organic acid (s) is (are) to form the organic titanium salt (s) of the invention is (are) selected from the carboxylic acid (s) of Formula (I) as defined above and preferably is or are an alpha hydroxy acid such as lactic, glycolic, tartaric or citric acids. Preferentially, the organic titanium salt resulting from the action of one or more organic acid (s) as defined previously, preferably carboxylic acid (s) of formula (I) as defined above, is an optionally charged complex (in particular negatively) which is complexed with one or more carboxylate group (s) of carboxylic acid (s). Preferably, the organic titanium salt (s) of the invention is (are) chosen from those of the following formula (V): ## STR2 ## Formula (V) in which: - A is identical to that of the formula (I) - n = 1,2,3,4 and n '+ n "= 6 - M1 and M2, which are identical or different, represent a cationic counterion such as a cation alkali (Na, K), alkaline earth (Ca) or organic metal such as ammonium, preferably ammonium or hydrogen atom; - TiYn "designating Ti (01-1), r, or Ti (0), r / 2, or Ti (01-1) ,, 1 (O) ,, 2 with m1 + m2 = n "Preferably the radical A of the compound (V) as defined above represents a monovalent (C1-C6) alkyl group or polyvalent (C1-C6) alkylene optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, and n represents an integer between 0 and 5 inclusive, such as between 0 and 2, especially the carboxylic acid or acids used to form the organic salt or salts of titanium of the invention are among the α-hydroxy acids; preferentially, the acid is chosen from citric acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid and glycolic acid. Preferably, the organic titanium salt (s) of the invention is (are) chosen from those of the following formula (V1): Formula (V1) in which: - L 'and L ", identical or different, represent a divalent group (hetero) arylene, C6) alkylene, (C2-C6) alkenylene, said alkylene and arylene groups being optionally substituted by one or more atoms or groups selected from halo, (C1-C4) alkyl, hydroxy , thiol, and (di) (C1-C4) (alkyl) amino, carboxy, and / or optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen, preferably L 'and L "are identical and represent a methylene or ethylene group optionally substituted with a (C1-C4) alkyl group; X 'and X', which are identical or different, represent a heteroatom such as oxygen, sulfur or amino Rc-N with Rc representing a hydrogen atom or a (CiC4) alkyl group, preferably X 'and X "are identical and represent an oxygen atom; Y and Y ', which may be identical or different, are as defined for X' and X ", preferably Y and Y 'are identical and represent an oxygen atom, and Ra and Rb, which may be identical or different, represent an atom of hydrogen, or a (C1-C6) alkyl, (C2-C6) alkenyl, or (hetero) aryl group, particularly Ra and Rb, identical represent a hydrogen atom or a (C1-C4) alkyl group, preferably hydrogen, M +, identical or different, represents a cationic counter ion such as alkali metal (Na, K), alkaline earth (Ca) or organic cation such as ammonium, preferably ammonium. Titanium organic (s) of the staining process is the dihydroxybis (lactato) titanium IV salt such as those of the following formula: ## STR1 ## The staining process can implement one or more organic acids b1) of formula (I) as defined above.
[0009] According to an advantageous variant, the dyeing method also uses b1) one or more carboxylic acid (s) of formula (I) as defined above. More preferentially, the carboxylic acid or acids b1) are different from the carboxylic acids complexed with the Ti salts. For example, if the carboxylic acid complexed with the titanium salt b) is lactic acid or its carboxylate salt (lactate), the second acid b1) other than lactic acid or lactate. In addition to the organic Ti salt (s), the dyeing process of the invention may also employ one or more additional Ti salts which are inorganic. Preferably these are applied to the keratinous fibers in the same composition as that comprising at least one organic titanium salt b) as defined above. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "inorganic titanium salt" means the salts themselves, derived from the action of an inorganic acid on Ti. By "inorganic acid" is meant an acid which contains no carbon atoms except carbonic acid. Inorganic salts of titanium are preferably selected from titanium halides, titanium sulfates and titanium phosphates. The titanium salts are preferably inorganic salts of Ti (II), Ti (III) or Ti (IV), more particularly Ti (III) or Ti (IV). The organic salt (s) of Titanium (b) is (are) present in the cosmetic composition (s) used in the process according to the invention in a certain amount. ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition or compositions containing them. In particular, the titanium organic salt (s) and the inorganic titanium salts according to the invention are soluble in water in a proportion of at least 0.0001 g / l, more preferably at least 1 g / l. c) A Chemical Oxidizing Agent According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the dyeing method also uses a chemical oxidizing agent. By chemical oxidizing agent is meant an oxidizing agent different from the oxygen of the air. More particularly, the dyeing process uses hydrogen peroxide a) urea peroxide; b) polymer complexes which can release hydrogen peroxide, such as polyvinylpyrrolidone / H 2 O 2, in particular being in the form of powders and the other polymer complexes described in US 5,008,093; US 3,376,110; US 5,183,901; c) oxidases in the presence of a suitable substrate (for example glucose in the case of glucose oxidase or uric acid with uricase); d) metal peroxides generating hydrogen peroxide in water such as calcium peroxide, magnesium peroxide; e) perborates; or f) percarborates. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition contains one or more chemical oxidizing agent (s) chosen from (a) urea peroxide, (b) polymeric complexes capable of releasing hydrogen peroxide selected from polyvinylpyrrolidone / H 2 O 2; c) oxidases; e) perborates and f) percarborates. In particular, the dyeing process uses hydrogen peroxide. Furthermore, the composition or compositions comprising hydrogen peroxide or hydrogen peroxide generating system may also contain various adjuvants conventionally used in compositions for dyeing keratinous fibers as defined below. According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the chemical oxidizing agent or agents used preferably represent from 0.001% to 12% by weight of chemical oxidizing agents (of hydrogen peroxide) with respect to the total weight of the composition or the compositions containing them or, more preferably, from 0.2% to 2.7% by weight. d) one or more basifying agent (s) According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the dyeing process uses one or more alkalinizing agent (s). This is base (s) to increase the pH of the composition or compositions in which it is located. The basifying agent is a Bronsted, Lowry or Lewis base. It can be mineral or organic. Particularly the said agent is chosen from i) (bi) carbonates, ii) ammonia, iii) alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines and their derivatives iv) oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, y ) mineral or organic hydroxides, vi) alkali metal silicates such as sodium metasilicates, vii) basic amino acids such as arginine, lysine, ornithine, citruline and histidine, and viii ) the compounds of formula (VI) below: embedded image in which W is a divalent (C1-C8) alkylene radical optionally substituted by at least one hydroxyl group or at least one at least one (C1-C4) alkyl radical and / or optionally interrupted by at least one heterotatome such as oxygen, sulfur or with a group -N (Re) -; Ra, Rb, Rc, Rd and Re, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a (C1-C4) alkyl or hydroxy (C1-C4) alkyl radical, preferably W represents a propylene radical. The inorganic or organic hydroxides are preferably selected from a) the hydroxides of an alkali metal, b) the hydroxides of an alkaline earth metal, such as hydroxides of sodium or potassium, c) the hydroxides of a metal such as the hydroxides of Group III, IV, V and VI metals, d) the hydroxides of lanthanides or actinides, quaternary ammonium hydroxides and guanidinium hydroxide.
[0010] The hydroxide may be formed in situ such as, for example, guanidine hydroxide by reaction of calcium hydroxide and guanidine carbonate. By (bi) carbonates i) is understood to mean: a) alkali metal carbonates (Met2 +, CO32-), alkaline earth metal (Met2 +, CO32-) ammonium ((R "4N +) 2, C032- ) or phosphonium ((R "4P +) 2, CO32- with Met 'representing an alkaline earth metal and Met representing an alkali metal, and R", which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a group (CiC6) optionally substituted alkyl such as hydroxyethyl), and b) bicarbonates, also called hydrogenocarbonates, of the following formulas: - R '+, HCO3- with R' representing a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal, an ammonium group R "4N + - or phosphonium R "4P + - where R", identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, an optionally substituted (C1-C6) alkyl group such as hydroxyethyl and when R 'represents a hydrogen atom, the hydrogen carbonate is then called dihydrogen carbonate (002, H20); and - Met2 + (1-1CO3) 2 with Met 'representing an alkaline earth metal. More particularly, the basifying agent is chosen from alkali or alkaline earth metal (bi) carbonates and amino acids such as arginine; preferentially alkali metal (bi) carbonates and amino acids. There may be mentioned carbonates or hydrogenocarbonates of Na, K, Mg, Ca and mixtures thereof, and in particular Na hydrogen carbonate. These hydrogencarbonates can come from natural water, for example spring water from the Vichy basin, from La Roche Posay, Badoit water (see patent, for example FR 2 814 943). Particularly mention may be made of sodium carbonate [497-19-8] = Na2CO3, sodium hydrogencarbonate or sodium bicarbonate [144-55-8] = NaHCO3, and sodium dihydrogen carbonate = Na (HCO3) 2. According to a particularly advantageous embodiment, the alkalinizing agent (s) (e) is (are) chosen from amino acids such as arginine and (bi) carbonates which are particularly alkaline or alkaline-earthy, alone or in mixtures. They are preferably together during the coloring process.
[0011] The alkalinizing agent (s) as defined above preferably represent from 0.001% to 10% by weight relative to the weight of the composition (s) containing them. More particularly from 0.005% to 8% by weight of the composition.
[0012] Water: According to one embodiment of the invention, water is preferably included in the process of the invention. It may come from the wetting of the keratinous fibers and / or the composition or compositions comprising the compounds a) to e) as defined above or from one or more other compositions. Preferably, the water comes from at least one composition comprising at least one compound chosen from a) to e) as defined above. Compositions: The compositions according to the invention generally comprise water or a mixture of water and one or more organic solvents or a mixture of organic solvents. By organic solvent is meant an organic substance capable of dissolving or dispersing another substance without chemically modifying it. Organic solvents: As organic solvent, there may be mentioned, for example lower C1-C4 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; polyols and polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether, hexylene glycol, as well as aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol. Preferably, the dye composition i.e comprising the ortho-diphenol (s) of the invention comprises at least one organic solvent as defined above and particularly an organic solvent chosen from aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol. The organic solvents are present in proportions preferably of between 1 and 40% by weight approximately relative to the total weight of the dye composition, and even more preferably between 5 and 30% by weight approximately. Adjuvants: The composition (s) of the inventive dyeing process may or may also contain various adjuvants conventionally used in hair dyeing compositions, such as anionic, cationic, nonionic surfactants and the like. ionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic or mixtures thereof, anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers or mixtures thereof, mineral or organic thickeners, and in particular anionic, cationic, nonionic and amphoteric polymeric associative thickeners, antioxidants, penetrating agents, sequestering agents, perfumes, buffers, dispersing agents, conditioning agents such as, for example, volatile or non-volatile silicones, modified or unmodified, film-forming agents, ceramides, preservatives, opacifying agents.
[0013] The dyeing process of the invention may also use in addition to compounds a) b) and optionally c) at least one other particular carboxylic acid of formula (I) as defined above. More particularly, the carboxylic acid (s) of formula (I) are such that A represents a monovalent (C-C6) alkyl or polyvalent (C1-C6) alkylene group optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, and n represents an integer inclusive. inclusively between 0 and 5, such as between 0 and 2. More particularly, the carboxylic acid or acids of the invention are chosen from the acids of formula (I) having a solubility in water greater than or equal to 1% by weight relative to 25 ° C and at atmospheric pressure. Preferably the acids of formula (I) comprise at least one hydroxy group in their structure. Even more preferentially, the acid is chosen from the ahydroxy acids. The preferred acids of the invention are selected from glycolic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid and citric acid.
[0014] The salts of the acids of formula (I) may be organic or inorganic base salts such as sodium hydroxide, ammonia, or potassium hydroxide or organic amine salts such as alkanolamines. The acids of formula (I) or their salts are present in the composition or compositions containing them in a content ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight.
[0015] Said adjuvants are preferably chosen from surfactants such as anionic, nonionic surfactants or mixtures thereof and inorganic or organic thickeners. The adjuvants above are generally present in an amount for each of them between 0.01 and 40% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, preferably between 0.1 and 20% by weight relative to the weight of the composition. Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional compounds in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition or to the composition (s) useful in the coloring process according to the invention are not not, or not substantially, impaired by the addition or additions envisaged.
[0016] Additional dyes: The dyeing process using the ingredients a) to e) as defined above may furthermore use one or more additional direct dyes. These direct dyes are, for example, chosen from those conventionally used in direct dyeing, and among which may be mentioned all the aromatic and / or nonaromatic dyes of current use such as neutral, benzene neutral, acidic or cationic direct dyes, direct dyes neutral azo, acidic or cationic, natural direct dyes other than orthodiphenols, direct quinone dyes and in particular neutral, acidic or cationic anthraquinone dyes, azine, triarylmethane, indoamine, methines, styryls, porphyrins, metalloporphyrins, direct dyes, phthalocyanines, methine cyanines, and fluorescent dyes.
[0017] Among the natural direct dyes that may be mentioned are lawsone, juglone, indigo, isatin, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidine, orceins. It is also possible to use the extracts or decoctions containing these natural dyes, and in particular poultices or extracts made from henna. According to the invention, the direct dye (s) used in the composition (s) of the dyeing process according to the invention preferably represent from 0.001% to 10% by weight approximately of the total weight of the composition or compositions ( s) and even more preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight approximately. The composition according to the invention or the composition (s) of the process implementing the ingredients a) to e) as defined above may also comprise one or more oxidation bases and / or one or more couplers conventionally used to the dyeing of keratinous fibers. Among the oxidation bases that may be mentioned are para-phenylenediamines, bisphenylalkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, bis-para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases and their addition salts. Among these couplers, mention may notably be made of meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalenic couplers, heterocyclic couplers and their addition salts. The oxidation base (s) present in said composition (s) are used in the process are generally present each in an amount of between 0.001 to 10% by weight of the total weight. of the composition (s) containing them. The cosmetic composition (s) of the invention may be in various galenical forms, such as a powder, a lotion, a mousse, a cream, a gel or in any other form suitable for carrying out a dyeing keratinous fibers.
[0018] They can also be packaged in a pump bottle without propellant or under pressure in an aerosol bottle in the presence of a propellant and form a foam. pH of the composition (s): According to the present invention, the pH of at least one of the cosmetic compositions comprising at least one of ingredients a), b), c), d) is acidic, ie lower than at 7.0, preferably less than 5.0, particularly at a pH between 0 and 4. According to one embodiment, the pH of the cosmetic composition (s) containing one or more alkaline agents preferably chosen from bi) carbonates is alkaline, ie greater than 7, preferably between 8 and 12 and more particularly between 8 and 10.5 inclusive. Preferably, the composition containing the orthodiphenol (s) a) has an acidic pH of less than 7, preferably less than 5, particularly at a pH between 0 and 4 inclusive. According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the composition containing the inorganic salt or salts of titanium or alkoxytitanium b) and not containing (bi) carbonates have a pH of less than 7, and preferably less than 5, particularly at a pH between 0 and 4 inclusively.
[0019] The pH of these compositions may be adjusted to the desired value by means of alkalinizing agents as defined previously in e) or from acidifying agents normally used for dyeing keratin fibers or else using conventional buffer systems. . Among the acidifying agents of the compositions used in the invention, mention may be made, for example, of mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, sulphonic acids. By "carboxylic acid" is meant a compound comprising at least one carboxylic acid group -C (O) -OH, preferably of formula (I) as defined above, preferably comprising between 1 and 4 carboxylic acid groups such as 1 or 2; or chosen from: i) (C1-C10) alkyl- [C (O) -OH] n and ii) het- [C (O) -OH] n, with n an integer ranging between 1 and 4, preferably between 1 and 2, hetero-cyclic group such as pyrrolidone, the alkyl or hetero group may be optionally substituted with one or more groups, especially selected from OH, and (di) (C 1 -C 6) (alkyl) amino. Staining process in one or more steps The method for staining keratinous fibers consists in treating, in one or more steps, one or more cosmetic compositions containing, taken together or separately in the one or more compositions, the following ingredients: a) one or more orthodiphenol (s) as defined above; b) one or more organic salt (s) of titanium and b1) carboxylic acid (s) of formula (I) as defined above; c) optionally one or more chemical oxidizing agent (s), especially chosen from hydrogen peroxide or one or more hydrogen peroxide generator system (s); it being understood that the composition or at least one of the compositions used in the dyeing process is at acidic pH, ie less than 7, preferably less than 5, especially at a pH between 0 and 4 inclusive. Particular embodiment of the invention, the dyeing process is carried out in at least two stages which comprises a first step in which the keratinous fibers are treated with a cosmetic composition comprising a) one or more orthodiphenol (s) as defined above, b ) one or more organic salt (s) of titanium and carboxylic acid (s) as defined above and (c) one or more carboxylic acid (s) of formula (I) ) as previously defined; followed by a second step in which is applied an alkaline cosmetic composition ie whose pH is greater than 7, and preferably between 8 and 12, especially between 8 and 10.5, which comprises e) one or more agents ( s) alkalinizing (s). Preferably, the cosmetic composition applied to the keratinous fibers during the second step further comprises c) one or more chemical oxidizing agent (s), in particular chosen from hydrogen peroxide or one or more system (s). (s) generator (s) of hydrogen peroxide, preferably hydrogen peroxide. The pause time after application of the composition comprising the ortho-diphenol (s) is generally set between 3 and 120 minutes and preferably between 10 and 60 minutes and more preferably between 15 and 45 minutes. According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the process for dyeing keratinous fibers is carried out in two stages by the application to the keratin fibers of a dye composition comprising ingredients a), b), b1) and c) , as defined above and optionally one or more inorganic salt (s) of titanium as defined previously, then, in a second step, a composition comprising the ingredient e) and optionally the ingredient d) as defined above is applied to said keratin fibers, it being understood that at least one of the two compositions is aqueous. Preferably, the composition comprising ortho-diphenol (s) a) is aqueous. Even more preferentially, the two compositions used in this embodiment are aqueous.
[0020] For this staining process, the pause time after application for the first step is generally set between 3 and 120 minutes and preferably between 10 and 60 minutes and more preferably between 15 and 45 minutes. The application time of the composition comprising the ingredient e) during the second step is generally set between 3 and 120 minutes and preferably between 3 and 60 minutes and more preferably between 5 and 30 minutes. According to another embodiment, the method for dyeing keratin fibers is in two or three steps. According to this embodiment, the method for dyeing keratinous fibers is carried out in several steps by application to the keratinous fibers in a first step of a cosmetic composition comprising: a) one or more ortho-diphenol derivative (s) , in particular chosen from: - haematein, brasiline, gallic acid, tannic acid, when the dyeing process does not use a chemical oxidizing agent d); or else - hematoxylin brasiline, when the dyeing process uses a chemical oxidizing agent d); b) one or more organic titanium salt (s) as defined above and b1) optionally one or more carboxylic acid (s) of formula (I) such that defined previously with A representing a monovalent (C1-C6) alkyl or polyvalent (C1-C6) alkylene group optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, and n representing an integer inclusive between 0 and 5, such as between 0 and 2, more particularly the carboxylic acid (s) of the invention are chosen from citric acid, lactic acid, glycolic acid and tartaric acid; then in a second step the application on said fibers of a cosmetic composition comprising: c) optionally one or more chemical oxidizing agent (s) chosen from hydrogen peroxide or one or more system (s) generator (s) of hydrogen peroxide; d) one or more basifying agent (s) chosen (s) from alkanolamines and (bi) carbonates particularly alkaline or alkaline earth, preferably (bi) carbonates; it being understood that: the composition comprising the carboxylic acid (s) is at acidic pH, ie less than 7, preferably less than 5, particularly at a pH ranging between 1 and 3, and the composition comprising the alkalinizing agent (s) is at an alkaline pH, preferably between 8 and 12 and more particularly between 8 and 10. In any of the modes of application, the application temperature is generally between room temperature (15 to 25 ° C.) and 220 ° C and more particularly between 15 and 45 ° C. Thus, it is advantageous, after application of the composition according to the invention, to subject the hair to a heat treatment by heating at a temperature of between 30 and 60 ° C. In practice, this operation can be carried out by means of a hairdressing helmet, a hair dryer, an infrared dispenser and other conventional heating devices. Both heating and smoothing of the hair can be used as a heating iron at a temperature of between 60 and 220 ° C and preferably between 120 and 200 ° C. Whatever the mode of application, it is possible to perform a mechanical rinsing or wiping and / or a drying of the keratinous fibers between each step, in particular before carrying out the last step comprising the application of a composition containing the ingredient e) . The mechanical wiping and intermediate drying steps are also referred to as "non-rinsed mastered" to differentiate from "conventional wet rinse" and "non-rinsed". By "mechanical wiping" of the fibers is meant the rubbing of an absorbent object on the fibers and the physical removal by the absorbent object of the surplus ingredient (s) that has not penetrated the fibers. The absorbent object may be a piece of cloth such as a particularly sponge towel, a cloth, absorbent paper such as paper towels.
[0021] According to a particularly advantageous method of the invention, the mechanical wiping is carried out without total drying of the fiber, leaving the fiber wet. Drying means the action of evaporating organic solvents and / or water in one or more compositions used in the process of the invention, comprising or not one or more ingredients a) to e as defined previously. The drying can be done by thermal source (convection, conduction or radiation) by sending for example a hot gas stream such as the air necessary for the evaporation of the solvent or solvents. As a thermal source there may be mentioned a hair dryer, hair helmets, a hair straightener, an infrared dispenser and other conventional heating devices.
[0022] A particular embodiment of the invention relates to a dyeing process which is carried out at room temperature (25 ° C). In all the particular modes and variants of the processes described above, the compositions mentioned are ready-to-use compositions which may result from the extemporaneous mixing of two or more compositions, and in particular of compositions present in dyeing kits. dyeing device or "kit" Another object of the invention is a multi-compartment device or "kit" of dyeing. Advantageously, this kit comprises from 2 to 5 compartments containing from 2 to 5 compositions in which are distributed the ingredients a) to d) as defined previously can be aqueous or powder, with particularly at least one of said compositions being aqueous. According to a first variant, the kit comprises 5 compartments, the first 4 compartments respectively comprising the powdered ingredients a), b), c) and d) as defined above and in the 5th compartment containing an aqueous oxidizing composition such as water comprising d) as defined above. In this other embodiment, at least one of the four compositions is aqueous and the derivative (s) orthodiphenol (s) may be in powder form. In another variant of the kit, the latter comprises two compartments, in which the first composition contained in the first compartment comprises a), b) and c) the second compartment comprises d) in the form of a powder or in an aqueous medium, preferably the second composition is aqueous. In another variant of the kit, the latter comprises three compartments, in which the first composition contained in the first compartment comprises a) and b) and the second compartment comprises d) in powder form or in an aqueous medium, preferably the second composition is aqueous and the third compartment comprises c). According to one variant, the device according to the invention further comprises an additional composition comprising one or more treatment agents.
[0023] The compositions of the device according to the invention are packaged in separate compartments, possibly accompanied by appropriate, identical or different application means, such as brushes, brushes or sponges. The device mentioned above can also be equipped with a means for delivering the desired mixture onto the hair, for example such as the devices described in patent FR 2586913. The invention also relates to the use of said composition cosmetic dye for the coloring of keratinous fibers. Another subject of the invention is the use of one or more carboxylic acid (s) of formula (I) as defined above for improving the coloration of keratinous fibers made from orthodiphenol (s) in presence of organic titanium salt (s). For the purposes of the present invention, the term "rise" of the color of the keratinous fibers is understood to mean the variation in color between strands of unstained white hair and strands of colored hair.
[0024] The following example serves to illustrate the invention without being limiting in nature.
[0025] Staining Examples Example 1 The following compositions are prepared from the following ingredients in the following proportions indicated in gram: Coloring compositions: Ingredients CAS composition composition composition 1 2 3 Pure hematoxylin 517-28-2 4g 4g 4g Ethanol 15g 15g 15g Acid lactic acid 18.1 10.1 9.9 Dihydroxybis (ammonium 65104-06-15.7 12.1 12.1 lactato) titaniumlV 50% by weight (388165 at Aldrich) Titanium (III) sulphate at 19495-50- - 2.44 45% by weight (ref. 495182 at Aldrich) 8 Water qs 100g qs 100g qs 100g pH 2.6 2.4 2 Composition alkaline B: Ingredients quantity sodium bicarbonate 5g L-arginine 7g Hydrogen peroxide (at 50%) 1.7g Water qs 100g pH agent pH 9.2 Operating mode Each composition 1, 2 or 3 is applied to strands of Caucasian hair natural or permed 90% white, Chinese 100% natural white hair, at a rate of 2 grams of composition per 1 gram of hair. It is then allowed to stand for 45 minutes at a temperature of 40 ° C.
[0026] Composition B is then applied to each of the locks at a rate of 2 grams of composition for one gram of locks. The pH of composition B is 9.2. The exposure time is 15 minutes at a temperature of 45 ° C. The locks are then washed with Elsève multi-vitamin shampoo, rinsed and then dried with a helmet.
[0027] The colorations obtained are measured using a MINOLTA CM-3600D spectrophotometer with respect to an undyed hair. The tenacities are also measured using the same spectro-colorimeter compared to a hair that has not undergone a tenacity test.
[0028] Staining Results The color of the locks was evaluated in the CIE L * a * b * system using a Minolta Spectrophotometer CM3600D colorimeter. In this system L * a * b *, the three parameters denote respectively the intensity of the color (L *), a * indicates the green / red color axis and b * the blue / yellow color axis. Rise in color: The color variation between the locks of white hair with 90% of permanent white (90 BP) or 100% white and untreated (control) and after treatment or staining are defined by (AE *) according to the following equation: DE * = (L * -Lo *) 2 + (a * -ac, *) 2 + (1) * -bc, *) 2 In this equation, L *, a * and b * represent the values measured on strands of hair after staining and Lo *, ao * and bo * represent the values measured on strands of unstained virgin hair. The higher the value of A.E *, the better the color rise. Untreated hair L * a * b * Natural Caucasian 90% white 68.76 0.72 15.5 Caucasian 90% white permed 67.38 0.76 15.03 Chinese natural 100% white 74.92 2.4 23, 92 Highly colored black locks are obtained as shown by the following colorimetric measures: Hair treated color L * a * AE * ascent Composition 1 + B Natural Caucasian 90% white black 25.61 1.07 -0.07 44.37 Caucasian 90% white permed black 22.36 - 0.03 -0.11 43.36 Chinese natural 100% white Gray 26.81 0.87 -0.57 55.47 / black Composition 2 + B Natural caucasian 90% white black 23.21 1.51 -0.02 46.59 Caucasian 90% white permed black 21.92 0.01 -0.1 43.78 Chinese natural 100% white black 23.59 1.21 -0.23 58.23 Composition 3 + B Natural caucasian 90% white black 22.3 0.31 -0.6 47.65 Caucasian 90% white permed black 22.59 -0.01 0.29 43.02 Chinese natural 100% white black 24.66 -0.37 0.49 57.01 Remanence of color The hair treated with the composition 3 + B undergo then the tests of tenacity to light (Xenotest alpha). The hair colored by the composition (3 and then B) are also subjected to the tests of tenacity: - to sweat by immersion 48 hours at 37 ° C in an oven in an artificial sweat of composition C Ingredients quantity Sodium chloride 10 g Disodium phosphate 1g Histidine 0.25g Water qs 100g Lactic acid Qsp pH 3.2 The wicks colored from the compositions described above were exposed to light. The color of the locks was evaluated, before and after exposure to light, before and after treatment with sweat, or before and after successive shampoos, in the L * a * b * system, using a spectrophotometer such as than previously defined.
[0029] The variation of the color of the locks before and after exposure to light, before and after treatment with sweat, or before and after successive shampoos, is measured by (AE ') according to the following equation: DE'-Lo *) 2 + (a, * ao *) 2 (3, * bo *) 2 In this equation, L '*, a' * and b '* represent the measured values after external treatment of wicks (exposure to light, sweat or shampoos successive) and Lo *, ao * and bo * represent the values measured before exposure. The higher the value of 4E ', the greater the color difference of the wick before and after external treatment, which shows a lower tenacity in the light.25 The results in terms of toughness are summarized in the following table: Hair Exposure light Artificial sweat (40H Xenotest) (48H, 37 ° C)% loss% loss / unexposed hair / unexposed hair Compositions 3 + B Natural Caucasian 90% white - - Caucasian 90% white permed - 4.03 100% natural Chinese 5.31 - It is observed that the colored hair according to the invention has a very good level of toughness, which is confirmed by the colorimetric values (very low percentage losses of AE 'compared to the hair which has not been tested). EXAMPLE 2 The following compositions are prepared from the following ingredients in the following proportions indicated in grams: Composition 4 coloring: Ingredients CAS Amount Hematoxylin pure 517-28-2 4g Ethanol 15g Lactic acid 18 Dihydroxybis (ammonium 65104-06-5 16 lactato) titaniumlV at 50% by weight (ref 388165 at Aldrich) Water qs 100g pH 2.6 Composition D developer: Ingredients code Quantity sodium bicarbonate 67 5g L-arginine 52298 7g Hydrogen peroxide (at 50%) 1618 2.4g Water 511 S qsp 100g pH agent pH 9.2 Strands of Caucasian hair with 90% natural and permed white hair, Chinese 100% natural white hair are treated successively by: - Composition 4 is left for 45 minutes at 40 ° C and then wrung out composition B, which is then left to stand for 15 minutes at 40 ° C. At the end of these exposure times, the locks are washed with Elsève multi-vitamin shampoo, rinsed and then dried with a helmet.
[0030] The colorations obtained are measured using a MINOLTA CM-3600D spectrophotometer with respect to an undyed hair. Tenacities are also measured using the same spectrophotometer compared to a non-tenacious hair. Rise of color: Black locks are obtained that are very intensely colored as shown by the colorimetric measurements. Hair color L * a * b * AE * rise Composition 4 + B Natural Caucasian 90% white black 20.66 1.28 0.92 50.26 Natural Caucasian 90% white permed black 22.5 0.91 1.49 46.88 Natural Chinese 100% white Gray / black 28.08 1.64 2.79 51.39 Hair colored by the composition (4 and then D) undergo in addition a test of tenacity to the light (Xenotest lambda).
[0031] Results in tenacity The results in terms of tenacity are summarized in the following table: Hair Exposure light (40H Xenotest)% loss / unexposed hair Compositions 4 + D Natural Caucasian 90% white 2.63 Natural Caucasian 90% white 3.86 permed Natural Chinese 100% 14.15 It is observed that the colored hair according to the invention has a very good level of toughness, which is confirmed by the colorimetric values (very low percentage losses of AE 'compared to the hair that has not been tested).

权利要求:
Claims (12)
[0001]
REVENDICATIONS1. A process for dyeing keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers such as the hair, in which said fibers are treated, in one or more steps, with one or more cosmetic compositions containing, taken together or separately in the one or more compositions, the following ingredients: a) one or more orthodiphenol (s); b) one or more organic salt (s) of Ti in which the Ti is in particular of oxidation state 2, 3 or 4 preferably of oxidation degree 4; optionally b1) one or more carboxylic acid (s) of formula (I) below,; ## STR3 ## and its salts, in which: A represents a monovalent group when n is 0 or polyvalent when n is greater than or equal to 1, a hydrocarbon comprising from 1 to 50 carbon atoms, saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or non-cyclic, aromatic or nonaromatic, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms and / or optionally substituted, in particular not one or more hydroxyl groups; preferably A represents a monovalent (C1-C6) alkyl or polyvalent (CiC6) alkylene group optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups; n represents an integer inclusive between 0 and 10, preferably n is between 0 and 5, such as between 0 and 2; c) optionally one or more chemical oxidizing agent (s), especially chosen from hydrogen peroxide or one or more hydrogen peroxide generator system (s); it being understood that at least one of the compositions used in the dyeing process is at acidic pH, i.e. less than 7.0, preferably less than 5, particularly at a pH between 0 and 4 inclusive.
[0002]
2. Staining process according to claim 1, characterized in that ingredient a) is an orthodiphenol with an aromatic ring, this aromatic ring being chosen from benzene, naphthalene, tetrahydronaphthalene, indane, indene, anthracene, phenanthrene, isoindole, indoline, isoindoline, benzofuran, dihydrobenzofuran, chroman, isochromane, chromene, isochromene, quinoline, tetrahydroquinoline and isoquinoline, aromatic ring having at least two hydroxy groups carried by two contiguous adjacent atoms of the aromatic ring.
[0003]
3. Staining process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that ingredient a) is an orthodiphenol of formula (II) below or one of its oligomers, tautomers, optical isomers, geometric isomers, and its salts or its solvates such as hydrates: OH formula (II) in which: R1 to R4, identical or different, represent: i) a hydrogen atom, ii) halogen, or a group selected from iii) hydroxy, iv) carboxy, y) carboxylate of (CiC20) alkyl or (C1-C20) alkoxycarbonyl, vi) optionally substituted amino, vii) C20) linear or branched alkyl optionally substituted, viii) (C2-C20) linear or branched alkenyl optionally substituted, ix) optionally substituted cycloalkyl, x) C20) alkoxy, xi) (C1-C20) alkoxy (C1-C20) alkyl, xii) (C1-C20) alkoxyaryl, xiii) aryl which may be optionally substituted, xiv) aryl , xv) substituted aryl, xvi) heterocyclic, saturated or unsaturated, bearing or not a cationic or anionic charge, optionally substituted and / or optionally fused with an aromatic ring, preferably benzene, said aromatic ring being optionally substituted especially by one or more hydroxyl or glycosyloxy groups, xvii) a radical containing one or more silicon atoms ; or two of the substituents carried by two adjacent carbon atoms R1 - R2, R2 - R3 or R3 - R4 together with the carbon atoms carrying them a saturated or unsaturated ring, aromatic or otherwise, optionally containing one or more heteroatoms and optionally condensed with one or more saturated or unsaturated rings optionally containing one or more heteroatoms; particularly, R1 to R4 together form from one to four rings; more particularly, R2 and R3 form a pyrrolyl or pyrrolidinyl radical fused to the benzene ring carrying the two hydroxy.
[0004]
4. Staining process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the derivative (s) orthodiphenol (s) a) are chosen from: - flavanols such as catechin and epichatechin gallate, - the flavonols such as quercetin, anthocyanidins such as cyanidin, delphinidin, petunidine, anthocyanins or anthocyanins such as myrtillin, orthohydroxybenzoates, for example gallic acid salts, flavones such as luteolin, hydroxystilbenes, for example tetrahydroxy-3,3 ', 4,5'-stilbene, optionally oxylated (for example glucosylated), 3,4-dihydroxyphenylalanine and its derivatives, 2,3-dihydroxyphenylalanine and its derivatives, 4,5-dihydroxyphenylalanine and its derivatives, - dihydroxycinnamates such as caffeic acid and chlorogenic acid, - orthopolyhydroxycoumarines, - orthopolyhydroxyisocoumarines, - orthopolyhydroxycoumarones, - orthopolyhydr oxyisocoumarones, - orthopolyhydroxychalcones, - orthopolyhydroxychromones, - quinones, - hydroxyxanthones, - 1,2 dihydroxybenzene and its derivatives, - 1,2,4 trihydroxybenzene and its derivatives, - 1,2,3 trihydroxybenzene and its derivatives, - 2,4,5 trihydroxytoluene and its derivatives, - proanthocyanidins and in particular proanthocyanidins A1, A2, B1, B2, B3 and C1, - chromanics, and chromenics, - proathocyanines, - tannic acid ellagic acid and mixtures of the foregoing compounds; preferably the derivative (s) orthodiphenol (s) are chosen from haematein, brasiline, gallic acid, tannic acid, hematoxylin and brasiline and mixtures thereof.
[0005]
5. Staining process according to any one of claims 2 to 4, characterized in that the derivative (s) orthodiphenol (s) natural (s) a) is (are) chosen (s) from the extracts of animals, bacteria, fungi, algae, plants and fruits.
[0006]
6. Staining process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the acid (s) b1) is (are) of formula (I) with A representing a monovalent (C1-C6) alkyl or polyvalent group (C1-C6) alkylene optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, and n representing an integer between 0 and 5 inclusive, such as between 0 and 2, especially the carboxylic acid or acids of the invention are chosen from among the hydroxy acids; preferentially, the acid is chosen from citric acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid and glycolic acid.
[0007]
7. Coloring method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the acid (s) b1) of formula (I) or their salts, is (are) present in the composition or compositions containing them in a content ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight.
[0008]
8. Staining process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the salt (s) organic salts (s) of Titanium b) is (are) from (s) the acid reaction (s) ) organic (s) on titanium, in which the organic acid (s) is (are) chosen from organic acids which comprise: a) at least one C 1 -C 20 hydrocarbon chain, optionally unsaturated, linear or branched, a (hetero) cycloalkyl, or (hetero) aryl group, and b) at least one acidic chemical function being in particular selected from carboxy COOH, sulfuric SO3H, SO2H, and phosphoric PO3H2, PO41-12; preferably the organic acid (s) is (are) chosen from carboxylic acids (s) of formula (I) as defined in claim 1 or 6.
[0009]
9. Staining process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the acid (s) b1) is (are) of formula (I) as defined in claim 1 or And the last one (s) is (are) different from the organic acid (s) of the titanium salt as defined in claim 8.
[0010]
10. A dyeing process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the organic salt (s) titanium (s) b) is (are) chosen from those of formula (V) below: n 'Ti Wherein (A) is as defined in claim 1 or 6; n = 1,2,3,4 and n '+ n "= 6 - M1 and M2 identical or different, represent a cationic counter ion such as an alkali metal (Na, K), alkaline earth (Ca) or organic cation such as ammonium, preferably ammonium or a hydrogen atom. acid is an alpha hydroxy acid even more preferably selected from glycolic, lactic, tartaric or citric acids - TiYn "designating Ti (01-1) r, -, or Ti (0), r / 2, or Ti (01 1) ,, i (0) ,, 2with m1 + m2 = n "; preferably, the organic titanium salt (s) of the dyeing process is the dihydroxybis (lactato) titaniumlV salt such as those of the following formula: OH 2- 0 0, Ir 0 0 2NH 4 ÷ Ti N o Cf O OH
[0011]
11. Staining process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the organic salt (s) b) as defined in claims 1, 8, 9, or 10 are carried out with one or more inorganic salt (s) of titanium; preferably selected from titanium halides, titanium sulfates and titanium phosphates.
[0012]
12. The method of dyeing according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said process uses one or more chemical oxidizing agent (s) chosen (s) from hydrogen peroxide or one or more hydrogen peroxide generating system (s), especially selected from hydrogen peroxide or urea peroxide, preferably hydrogen peroxide. 3. A dyeing method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the dyeing process uses e) one or more alkalinizing agent (s) particularly selected from: i) the (bi) carbonates, ii) ammonia, iii) alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines and their derivatives iv) oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethylene diamines, v) mineral or organic hydroxides, vi) alkali metal silicates such as sodium metasilicates, vii) basic amino acids such as arginine, lysine, ornithine, citruline and histidine, and viii) compounds of the following formula (V) : Formula (V) in which W is a divalent (C1-C8) alkylene radical optionally substituted with at least one hydroxyl group or at least one (C1-C4) alkyl radical and / or optionally interrupted by at least one heterotatome such as o xygen, sulfur or by a group -N (Re) -; Ra, Rb, Rc, Rd and Re, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a (C1-C4) alkyl or hydroxy (C1-C4) alkyl radical, preferably W represents a propylene radical, preferably the agent or agents alkalizing agents are chosen from (bi) carbonates and amino acids, alone or in mixtures. 14. The method of dyeing according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cosmetic composition or compositions used comprise one or more organic solvent (s), especially chosen from lower alkanols in Cl-C4, such as ethanol and isopropanol; polyols and polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether, hexylene glycol, as well as aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, preferably aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol. 15. The method of dyeing according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said method is carried out in at least two steps which comprises a first step in which the keratinous fibers are treated with a cosmetic composition comprising a) one or more orthodiphenol (s) as defined in any one of claims 1 to 5, b) one or more organic titanium salt (s) as defined in any one of claims 1, 8 to 10 optionally in the presence of one or more inorganic salt (s) of titanium as defined in claim 11 and b1) one or more carboxylic acid (s) of formula (I) as defined ( s) in any of claims 1, 6, 7 or 9; followed by a second step in which is applied an alkaline cosmetic composition ie whose pH is greater than 7, and preferably between 8 and 12 inclusive, particularly between 8 and 10.5, which comprises e) one or more agent (s) alkalinizing (s) as defined (s) in claim 13, preferably the cosmetic composition applied to the keratin fibers in the second step further comprises d) one or more oxidizing agent (s) (s) ) chemical (s) as defined in claim 12, in particular selected from hydrogen peroxide or one or more system (s) generator (s) of hydrogen peroxide, of preferably hydrogen peroxide. 16. The method of dyeing according to the preceding claim made in several steps by application to the keratinous fibers in a first step of a cosmetic composition comprising: a) one or more derivative (s) of orthodiphenol (s), in particular chosen (s) among: - haematein, brasiline, gallic acid, tannic acid, when the dyeing process does not use chemical oxidizing agent d); or else - hematoxylin brasiline, when the dyeing process uses a chemical oxidizing agent d); b) one or more organic titanium salt (s) as defined in any one of claims 1, 8 to 10; advantageously, ingredient b) is chosen from the salts or complexes of Ti (IV); optionally in the presence of one or more inorganic titanium salt (s) as defined in claim 11; b1) optionally one or more carboxylic acid (s) of formula (I) as defined in any one of claims 1, 6, 7 or 9 and in a second step the application on said fibers of a cosmetic composition comprising: c) optionally one or more chemical oxidizing agent (s) chosen from hydrogen peroxide or one or more peroxide generator system (s) hydrogen; d) one or more basifying agent (s) chosen (s) from alkanolamines and (bi) carbonates particularly alkaline or alkaline earth, preferably (bi) carbonates; it being understood that: the composition comprising the carboxylic acid (s) is at acidic pH, ie less than 7, preferably less than 5, particularly at a pH ranging between 1 and 3, and the composition comprising the alkalinizing agent (s) is at alkaline pH, preferably between 8 and 12 and more particularly between 8 and 10. 17. Cosmetic composition for dyeing keratinous fibers containing compounds a), b), b1), c), and d) as defined in any one of claims 1 to 16. 18. A multi-compartment device comprising 2 to 5 compartments containing from 2 to 5 compositions, in which are distributed ingredients a), b), b1), c) and d), as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 16, said compositions being aqueous or powdery, with at least one of these compositions being aqueous. Use of one or more carboxylic acid (s) of formula (I) as defined in claims 1 or 6 to improve the coloration of keratinous fibers produced from orthodiphenol (s) as defined (s) in any one of claims 1 to 5 and (s) titanium organic salt (s) as defined in any one of claims 1, 8 to 10 optionally in the presence of one or more inorganic titanium salt (s) as defined in claim 11, especially in terms of resistance to shampoos, light, sebum and sweat or rising of the color.

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公开号 | 公开日 | 专利标题

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FR3014681A1|2015-06-19|A CAPILLARY COLORING PROCESS USING AT LEAST ONE ORTHODIPHENOL, AN ORGANIC TITANIUM SALT AND CARBOXYLIC ACID

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FR2939645A1|2010-06-18|CAPILLARY COLORING PROCESS FROM A COMPOSITION COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE ORTHODIPHENOL, A METALLIC SALT, HYDROGEN PEROXIDE AND | CARBONATE

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FR3014682A1|2015-06-19|CAPILLARY COLORING PROCESS IMPLEMENTING AT LEAST ONE ORTHODIPHENOL, A TITANIUM DERIVATIVE, AND A CARBOXYLIC ACID

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FR2939646A1|2010-06-18|CAPILLARY COLORING PROCESS FROM A COMPOSITION COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE ORTHODIPHENOL, A METAL SALT, HYDROGEN PEROXIDE, | CARBONATE AND ALKALINIZING AGENT

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FR2976793A1|2012-12-28|Dyeing keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprises treating fibers with compositions containing ortho-diphenol derivatives, manganese or zinc salts, hydrogen peroxide, |carbonates, basifying agents and titanium salts to keratin fibers

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FR3029405B1|2019-08-02|CAPILLARY COLORING PROCESS USING AT LEAST ONE COLOR, TITANIUM SALT, AND INSOLUBLE SILICATE

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FR2939644A1|2010-06-18|COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE ORTHODIPHENOL, A METAL SALT, HYDROGEN PEROXIDE, | CARBONATE, A SURFACTANT, METHOD FOR COLORING FROM THE COMPOSITION

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EP2196183B1|2016-11-16|Dyeing method based on ortho-diphenol and comprising a wiping, drying or non rinsing stage

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FR2976797A1|2012-12-28|Dyeing keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprises applying compositions containing e.g. dihydroxyflavone derivatives, manganese salts, different basifying agents or bicarbonates, and metal salt e.g. scandium and titanium, to the fibers

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FR3029409A1|2016-06-10|A CAPILLARY COLORING PROCESS USING AT LEAST ONE COLOR, AN ORGANIC TITANIUM SALT, AND A NON-CELLULOSIC POLYSACCHARIDE

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FR2961393A1|2011-12-23|CAPILLARY COLORING PROCESS FROM A COMPOSITION COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE INDOLIC OR AN INDOLINIC COMPOUND, A METAL SALT, HYDROGEN PEROXIDE AND ALKALINIZING AGENT

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FR3037241A1|2016-12-16|A CAPILLARY COLORING PROCESS USING A TITANIUM SALT, A COLOR, AND A PARTICULAR SOLVENT

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FR3029408A1|2016-06-10|A CAPILLARY COLORING PROCESS USING AT LEAST ONE DYE, A TITANIUM SALT, AND A CATIONIC HYDROPHOBIC CELLULOSIC POLAR

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FR3029407A1|2016-06-10|A CAPILLARY COLORING PROCESS USING AT LEAST ONE DIRECT AND / OR NATURAL COLOR, TITANIUM SALT, CELLULOSIC POLYSACCHARIDE AND, WHERE POSSIBLE, A PARTICULAR ORGANIC SOLVENT

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FR2949196A1|2011-02-25|CAPILLARY COLORING PROCESS USING CHROMENIC OR CHROMANIC COLOR

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FR2981569A1|2013-04-26|Coloring keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprises treating fibers with orthodiphenol derivatives, cyclodextrins, metal salts, hydrogen peroxide or its generating system, |carbonates, and alkalizing agents different from |carbonates

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FR3037237A1|2016-12-16|CAPILLARY COLORING PROCESS IMPLEMENTING A COLORING STEP FROM A DYE, AND A TITANIUM SALT AND A REVELATION STEP FROM ALKALINE AGENT COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE AMINO FUNCTION

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FR2976794A1|2012-12-28|Dyeing keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprises treating fibers with compositions containing ortho-diphenol derivatives, manganese or zinc salts, hydrogen peroxide, |carbonates, basifying agents and titanium salts to keratin fibers

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FR3029406A1|2016-06-10|CAPILLARY COLORING PROCESS USING AT LEAST ONE DYE, ONE TITANIUM SALT, AND ANIONIC THICKENING POLYMER

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FR2976798A1|2012-12-28|METHOD FOR HAIR COLORING FROM DIHYDROXYFLAVONOIDES, NEOFLAVANOLS OR NEOFLAVANONES DERIVATIVES, MANGANESE SALTS, HYDROGEN PEROXIDE, | CARBONATES, ALKALI AGENTS, AND METAL SALTS

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FR2976796A1|2012-12-28|CAPILLARY COLORING PROCESS USING AT LEAST ONE DIHYDROXYFLAVANOL, A SALT OF MANGANESE OR ZINC, HYDROGEN PEROXIDE, | CARBONATE, AN ALKALI AGENT AND A SALT OF MAGNESIUM, MOLYBDENUM OR CALCIUM

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FR3019037A1|2015-10-02|PROCESS FOR COLORING KERATIN FIBERS FROM ORTHODIPHENOLS, METAL SALTS, OXIDIZING AGENT AND BASIC COMPOUND

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FR2996124A1|2014-04-04|A CAPILLARY COLORING PROCESS USING AT LEAST ONE ORTHOMETHOXYPHENOL DERIVATIVE, A MANGANESE OR ZINC SALT, HYDROGEN PEROXIDE AND | CARBONATE

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FR3037240A1|2016-12-16|MULTI-STAGE HAIR COLORING PROCESS USING AT LEAST ONE TITANIUM SALT AND SYNTHETIC DIRECT COLOR

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FR2959934A1|2011-11-18|HAIR COLORING COMPOSITION COMPRISING CHROMANIC AND / OR CHROMENIC COLORANTS

同族专利:

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公开号 | 公开日

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US20160317412A1|2016-11-03|

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EP3079775A1|2016-10-19|

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FR3014681B1|2015-12-18|

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WO2015086677A1|2015-06-18|

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US10010495B2|2018-07-03|

引用文献:

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公开号 | 申请日 | 公开日 | 申请人 | 专利标题

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DE19859721A1|1998-12-23|2000-06-29|Henkel Kgaa|Agent for dyeing keratin fibers|

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WO2006106366A1|2005-04-06|2006-10-12|The Boots Company Plc|Improved oxidative hair dyes and related topical compositions|

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FR2928086A1|2008-02-28|2009-09-04|Oreal|Dye composition, useful for coloring human keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprises at least one natural dye e.g. lawsone, juglone, alizarin, purpurin or carminic acid, and at least one lactone compound, in medium|

---

EP2196188A2|2008-12-12|2010-06-16|L'Oreal|Hair dyeing method using a derivative of hematoxylin, of hematein, of brazilin or of brazilein, one metal salt, hydrogen peroxide and carbonate|

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WO2010135237A1|2009-05-18|2010-11-25|Advanced Cosmetic Technologies, Llc|Composition for dyeing keratin fibers and a method of dyeing hair using same|

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WO2011000892A2|2009-07-02|2011-01-06|University Of Leeds|Catalysed dye systems|

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EP2438900A1|2010-10-05|2012-04-11|Henkel AG & Co. KGaA|Protective plant hair dye|

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FR2976793A1|2011-06-23|2012-12-28|Oreal|Dyeing keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprises treating fibers with compositions containing ortho-diphenol derivatives, manganese or zinc salts, hydrogen peroxide, carbonates, basifying agents and titanium salts to keratin fibers|

---

FR2976797A1|2011-06-23|2012-12-28|Oreal|Dyeing keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprises applying compositions containing e.g. dihydroxyflavone derivatives, manganese salts, different basifying agents or bicarbonates, and metal salt e.g. scandium and titanium, to the fibers|FR3059898A1|2016-12-12|2018-06-15|Oreal|A CAPILLARY COLORING PROCESS USING A TITANIUM SALT AND ONE OR MORE ORTHO-DIHYDROXY-1,2-DIPHENYL ETHYLENE DERIVATIVES|

---

WO2020127441A1|2018-12-21|2020-06-25|L'oreal|Hair dyeing process using a titanium salt, a fatty ether and a natural dye|US3376110A|1967-01-30|1968-04-02|Gen Aniline & Film Corp|Solid stabilized hydrogen peroxide compositions|

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FR2586913B1|1985-09-10|1990-08-03|Oreal|PROCESS FOR FORMING IN SITU A COMPOSITION CONSISTING OF TWO SEPARATELY PACKED PARTS AND DISPENSING ASSEMBLY FOR THE IMPLEMENTATION OF THIS PROCESS|

---

US5008093A|1989-11-08|1991-04-16|Gaf Chemicals Corporation|Anhydrous complexes of PVP and hydrogen peroxide|

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US5183901A|1992-01-24|1993-02-02|Isp Investments Inc.|Urea-hydrogen peroxide-polyvinylpyrrolidone|

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FR2814946B1|2000-10-09|2003-01-31|Oreal|COLORING COMPOSITION, PROCESS FOR OBTAINING AND USE FOR COLORING SKIN AND / OR KERATINIC MATERIALS|

---

FR2814945B1|2000-10-09|2003-02-14|Oreal|CANITIY TREATMENT PROCESS|

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FR2814943B1|2000-10-09|2003-01-31|Oreal|COLORING COMPOSITION, PROCESS FOR OBTAINING AND USE FOR COLORING SKIN AND / OR KERATINIC FIBERS|

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AT275924T|2000-10-09|2004-10-15|Oreal|DYE COMPOSITION, METHOD FOR PRODUCING AND USE FOR DYING THE SKIN AND / OR KERATINIC FIBERS|

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FR2814947B1|2000-10-09|2003-01-31|Oreal|TINCTORIAL COMPOSITION PROMOTING NATURAL PIGMENTATION PROCEDURE FOR OBTAINING AND USING FOR COLORING THE SKIN AND / OR KERATINIC FIBERS|

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US7081485B2|2002-08-21|2006-07-25|Bisco, Inc.|Non-volatile dental compositions containing multifunctional acrylate compounds and lacking an oxygen-inhibited layer|

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FR2939644B1|2008-12-12|2011-02-11|Oreal|COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE ORTHODIPHENOL, A METAL SALT, HYDROGEN PEROXIDE, CARBONATE, A SURFACTANT, METHOD FOR COLORING FROM THE COMPOSITION|

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FR2951374B1|2009-10-16|2012-04-13|Oreal|COMPOSITION COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE ANTHRONIC DERIVATIVE, PROCESS FOR COLORING KERATINIC FIBERS FROM THE COMPOSITION|

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FR2954134A1|2009-12-23|2011-06-24|Oreal|A COMPOSITION FOR COLORING KERATIN FIBERS COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE ORTHODIPHENOL DERIVATIVE, A CHEMICAL OXIDIZING AGENT AND AN ALKALINIZING AGENT,|

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FR2954098A1|2009-12-23|2011-06-24|Oreal|COMPOSITION COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE ORTHODIPHENOL DERIVATIVE A PARTICULAR METAL DERIVATIVE AND ALKALINIZING AGENT FOR COLORING KERATIN FIBERS|

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ES2621089T3|2011-06-23|2017-06-30|L'oréal|Hair dyeing process using at least one ortho diphenol, a manganese or zinc salt, hydrogen peroxide, carbonate, an alkaline agent and a titanium or scandium salt|

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FR3014682B1|2013-12-13|2015-12-18|Oreal|CAPILLARY COLORING PROCESS IMPLEMENTING AT LEAST ONE ORTHODIPHENOL, A TITANIUM DERIVATIVE, AND A CARBOXYLIC ACID|FR3014682B1|2013-12-13|2015-12-18|Oreal|CAPILLARY COLORING PROCESS IMPLEMENTING AT LEAST ONE ORTHODIPHENOL, A TITANIUM DERIVATIVE, AND A CARBOXYLIC ACID|

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FR3029406B1|2014-12-08|2016-12-09|Oreal|CAPILLARY COLORING PROCESS USING AT LEAST ONE DYE, ONE TITANIUM SALT, AND ANIONIC THICKENING POLYMER|

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FR3029405B1|2014-12-08|2019-08-02|L'oreal|CAPILLARY COLORING PROCESS USING AT LEAST ONE COLOR, TITANIUM SALT, AND INSOLUBLE SILICATE|

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FR3029407B1|2014-12-08|2016-12-09|Oreal|A CAPILLARY COLORING PROCESS USING AT LEAST ONE DIRECT AND / OR NATURAL COLOR, TITANIUM SALT, CELLULOSIC POLYSACCHARIDE AND, WHERE POSSIBLE, A PARTICULAR ORGANIC SOLVENT|

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FR3029409B1|2014-12-08|2016-12-09|Oreal|A CAPILLARY COLORING PROCESS USING AT LEAST ONE COLOR, AN ORGANIC TITANIUM SALT, AND A NON-CELLULOSIC POLYSACCHARIDE|

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FR3037240B1|2015-06-12|2018-11-23|L'oreal|MULTI-STAGE HAIR COLORING PROCESS USING AT LEAST ONE TITANIUM SALT AND SYNTHETIC DIRECT COLOR|

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FR3037238A1|2015-06-12|2016-12-16|Oreal|CAPILLARY COLORING PROCESS, FREE OF CHEMICAL OXIDANT, USING TITANIUM SALT, AND PARTICULATE COLOR|

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FR3068240B1|2017-06-30|2020-05-15|L'oreal|HAIR TREATMENT PROCESS, USING A TITANIUM SALT AND A SOLAR FILTER|

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WO2019163497A1|2018-02-20|2019-08-29|株式会社Ｎｉｌ|Hairdye|

法律状态:
2015-11-10| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 3 |

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2016-11-11| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 4 |

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2017-11-13| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 5 |

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2019-11-15| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 7 |

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2020-11-12| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 8 |

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2021-11-09| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 9 |

优先权:

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申请号 | 申请日 | 专利标题

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FR1362579A|FR3014681B1|2013-12-13|2013-12-13|A CAPILLARY COLORING PROCESS USING AT LEAST ONE ORTHODIPHENOL, AN ORGANIC TITANIUM SALT AND CARBOXYLIC ACID|FR1362579A| FR3014681B1|2013-12-13|2013-12-13|A CAPILLARY COLORING PROCESS USING AT LEAST ONE ORTHODIPHENOL, AN ORGANIC TITANIUM SALT AND CARBOXYLIC ACID|

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US15/104,121| US10010495B2|2013-12-13|2014-12-10|Hair dyeing process using at least one ortho-diphenol and one organic salt of titanium and of a carboxylic acid|

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PCT/EP2014/077224| WO2015086677A1|2013-12-13|2014-12-10|Hair dyeing process using at least one ortho-diphenol and one organic salt of titanium and of a carboxylic acid|

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EP14809855.1A| EP3079775A1|2013-12-13|2014-12-10|Hair dyeing process using at least one ortho-diphenol and one organic salt of titanium and of a carboxylic acid|