• 专利附录
  • 专利说明
  • 权利要求
  • 类似技术
  • 同族专利
  • 引用文献
  • 法律状态
  • 优先权
    • 专利摘要:
    Device for the evaluation, monitoring and control of the force exerted on dams during climbing. This device is intended for the sport of climbing, specifically for indoor climbing disciplines that have recently been incorporated into the Olympic program. The device allows the sensorization of dams to evaluate the tensile forces exerted by climbers on them, regardless of the manufacturer model, type of dam or grip made. In this way, a comprehensive check for performance improvement could be carried out. The device consists of a structure of rigid and resistant material formed by an external part that allows to fix the structure to the wall of the climbing walls, and an internal part formed by a gauge and support plates to be able to locate the dam. (Machine-translation by Google Translate, not legally binding)
    公开号:ES2739660A1
    申请号:ES201830803
    申请日:2018-08-03
    公开日:2020-02-03
    发明作者:Olmedo Jose Manuel Jimenez；Ortega Basilio Pueo；Tomas Alfonso Penichet
    申请人:Universidad de Alicante；
    IPC主号:
    专利说明:

    [0001]
    [0002] Device for the evaluation, monitoring and control of the force exerted on dams during climbing.
    [0003]
    [0004] FIELD OF THE INVENTION
    [0005] The field of invention of this device focuses on the sport of climbing. Specifically, the indoor climbing disciplines have recently been incorporated into the Olympic program, where the modalities of difficulty climbing, bouldering and speed climbing are included.
    [0006]
    [0007] BACKGROUND
    [0008] This type of sports disciplines, unlike natural rock climbing, requires the use and placement on the walls of artificial pieces that recreate the grips of natural rock. This need has led to the development of many artificial dams of different shapes, dimensions and textures. Specifically, these types of dams are of great importance, since the use of one type or another, manufacturer's model, shape or texture, determines the athlete's performance and the strategies to be developed in order to progress on the walls. For this reason, the study of the forces that climbers perform depending on the type of dam, route to be made during climbing (known as climbing route or climbing problem) and inclination of the walls, becomes an essential and fundamental part for the preparation, evaluation and control of the training of climbers.
    [0009]
    [0010] Therefore, the sensorization of dams is currently a necessity for the preparation, training and control of training loads in this type of athletes.
    [0011]
    [0012] In addition, due to the need to develop dams and sports facilities that meet the increasing technical demands of climbers, devices have been developed that help the specific physical preparation of these types of athletes.
    [0013] In relation to these new inventions, some of those that have been generated are devices such as climbing blinds and continuous climbing modules as a treadmill (US005125877A and US006231482B1). This fact is motivated by the need for climbers to be able to accumulate meters by climbing, this being a limitation in indoor installations, since they are characterized by their short verticals. However, these patent examples have not sensed any of the dams that they use, since they have focused on the possibility of covering an existing need for the improvement of physical condition and, therefore, have not addressed the need for specific control of the force exerted on the dam, this being a fundamental aspect and an unsolved problem for the control and quantification of training loads, as well as a prominent aspect for the technical improvement of athletes.
    [0014]
    [0015] Following this line, the development of dams for use in artificial spaces has resulted in a large number of models, types, shapes and textures, so that it is possible to recreate climbing routes of any type of complexity responding to different levels and types of difficulty Within this field, special dams appear. Specifically, we have developed models of dams designed to facilitate the grip of children or initiates (US006709365B2). These initiation dams have a morphology that facilitates the grip of the dam both in vertical traction positions and in inverted grip positions, although, as in the previous case, ergonomics and grip texture have prevailed to the fundamental fact of knowing the force exerted on the dam during the grip. Hence, this type of dam cannot be used for evaluation, training control or even technical improvement in young athletes or initiates, since it is not possible to know in what way or way they are exerting force on the dam.
    [0016]
    [0017] On the other hand, the creation of dams and their diversity of shapes, types of grip, volumes and textures have generated the need to have different specific grips, but this has given rise to another type of problem: there are a lot of dams which must be placed in the spaces intended for sport climbing. As a consequence of the need to create a large number of climbing routes and routes, the walls are saturated to respond to different levels of training. This fact determines the specific marking of specific routes, which requires marking the specific routes by and for each level with colors and ribbons. For this reason, the dams have begun to be sensorized, so that they even have their own lighting that helps the climber to recognize the prey and thus be able to follow a climbing route previously prepared for training (US008668626B1). But in the same way that in the previous cases, in this case, they have focused on resolving the improvement of the visibility of the dam, where the pressure sensor shows and recognizes the grasped dam, but not in assessing the amount of force exerted by the athlete during the grip of it, so that information is simply offered on the route chosen by the athlete as he progresses through the wall.
    [0018]
    [0019] Regarding the recognition of climbing dams, there is another patent (US005732954) that allows the registration and monitoring of dams that have been seized by the athlete. In addition, it is possible to mark specific routes on specific dams through a previous configuration, which backlit the dams that should be used by the athlete during their progression. In this way, you can plan and specify specific routes that help trainers in the preparation and training of climbers with a programming of routes on easily recognizable dams. This improvement still does not solve the problem since it does not allow the analysis and control of the force exerted on the dam, so that it is not possible to know the effort that the athlete makes during the marked route for his training and could never lead to perform the quantification of the effort and physical work performed by the athlete during the completion of the routes configured for training.
    [0020]
    [0021] In summary, there are dams that have helped solve problems for the improvement and training of technique and tactics in climbers, including some with sensorization for the establishment of easily recognizable routes and routes. However, the problem of the lack of control and evaluation of the force exerted by climbers on the dam is still present, since a sensorization has not been developed that allows the analysis and evaluation of the grip in a real situation of sports practice, that is, in a dam placed on the wall.
    [0022]
    [0023] In relation to this aspect, there is only one scientific publication (Fuss and Niegl, 2008) where a dams sensorization was carried out during a real competition that allowed the evaluation of the grip pressure exerted by climbers on certain sensorized dams. The type of sensorization used allowed the evaluation of the center of pressures exerted on the dams, but with the disadvantage that said sensorization conditioned the size of the dams used, the use of large dams being necessary. This problem means that it is not possible to sensorize small-sized dams, which are very useful in the configuration of competitions and for specific training of specific grips.
    [0024] Therefore, so far no device has been developed that performs a dam sensor that allows the tensile forces exerted by climbers on them to be evaluated. In addition, it is necessary that the device allows the force exerted on any type of dam to be recorded, regardless of the manufacturer model, type of dam or grip made. In this way, a training control and an evaluation of the athlete's follow-up could be carried out, which would in turn allow an exhaustive control for performance improvement.
    [0025]
    [0026] GENERAL DESCRIPTION
    [0027] The purpose of this device is to provide a specific and functional tool for the analysis, control and evaluation of the tensile force exerted by climbers on dams during their climbing.
    [0028]
    [0029] Currently, the climbing walls are mainly configured for training, both for the Olympic discipline of difficulty climbing, and for the discipline of bouldering. These two disciplines need both vertical and extra-plummed walls at different angles that pose a difficulty to the climber's progression.
    [0030]
    [0031] For this, the walls have a symmetrical distribution of bushings embedded both in the wall and in the wooden panels. These bushings allow the rapid assembly and disassembly of countless dams and volumes used on which the different tracks are formed.
    [0032]
    [0033] Taking advantage of the use of these bushings, the device developed allows its placement on any wall, whether vertical or extra-plummeted, regardless of the material used, either concrete or wood, so that it can be anchored to the wall using the same hardware that is used for fixing dams. It should be noted that the distribution of the bushings is not standardized in all the climbing walls, which is why this device allows its regulation to adapt to the arrangement of the wall fixing bushings with the telescopic arms forming different possible embodiments. In addition, it emphasizes that the extensibility of the telescopic arms is independent, which allows a total regulation of the device within a certain range. Additionally, at the end of the telescopic arms there are anchor points that allow the device to be fixed.
    [0034] On the other hand, the device has a strain gauge that is integral with the structure at its top, aligned frontally with the dam that is fixed on the device, so that it allows the registration of the tensile forces exerted on said dam. The use of the strain gauge means a sensorization that transfers live recorded force and evolution data of the force curve with respect to time, obtaining information of great interest on the tensile forces exerted depending on the type of dam. In this way, trainers and physical trainers can have values and records of the tensile forces exerted on the dams in different conditions, which allows to control and evaluate the workouts. In addition, this facility when it comes to sensing climbing dams, allows the development of specific tests for the evaluation and control of the strength of climbers in real practice conditions and not in simulated or indirect situations, such as tests Maximum strength with weight lifting.
    [0035]
    [0036] In addition, the device allows you to couple any type of dam regardless of the manufacturer, model or type of dam. In this way, an evaluation can be carried out on small dams such as strips or on large dams such as blunt. It is also possible to rotate the dam itself, which allows its placement in an exact arrangement, being able to tilt or dispose of them in the desired way. Therefore, it offers the possibility of being able to carry out an analysis on all the existing climbing dams on the market for the practice of sports disciplines carried out in artificial climbing facilities.
    [0037]
    [0038] In this way, it is possible to place as many devices as we want to control, recording the forces exerted by the climbers in each of them and thus, being able to evaluate all the dams of a previously configured path in the wall.
    [0039]
    [0040] The device consists of a structure of rigid and resistant material comprising: an external part for fixing the structure comprising at least one fixed block and at least one telescopic arm, which can be placed externally or internally with respect to the fixed block, and with at least one anchor point,
    [0041] and an internal part comprising at least one strain gauge that is integral at its top with a joint plate placed transversely to the fixed block at an angle of 90 ° with the wall and integral at its bottom with a support plate, in form of ele, also placed transversely to the block at an angle of 90 ° with the wall, where on one of the sides the dam is placed aligned frontally and forming an angle of 90 ° in the sagittal plane with the gauge thus minimizing the moment of existing force as a result of the difference between the point of realization of the force (dam) and the sensorization system (strain gauge).
    [0042]
    [0043] In a particular embodiment, the outer part comprises two fixed blocks placed perpendicularly in the form of a cross, where in each block two telescopic arms are placed and with an anchor point located at the outer end of each telescopic arm (Figure 1).
    [0044]
    [0045] In a particular embodiment, the outer part also comprises four fixed blocks in the form of a square or a rectangle, each block with two telescopic arms and with an obliquely located anchor point and which is shared by two telescopic solidarity arms (Figure 2) .
    [0046]
    [0047] In a particular embodiment, the outer part also comprises four fixed blocks in the form of a square or a rectangle, each block with two telescopic arms and an anchor point located obliquely and which is shared by two telescopic supportive arms. In addition, in this configuration the fixed block of the external part is placed horizontally and another fixed block is arranged in parallel so that between both blocks the two plates and the gauge are fixed (Figure 3).
    [0048]
    [0049] In a particular embodiment, the outer part also comprises a block with a circular shape divided into two semicircles to be able to elongate the structure.
    [0050]
    [0051] In a particular embodiment, the outer part also comprises three blocks forming a triangle, and each block comprises two telescopic arms to be able to elongate the structure.
    [0052]
    [0053] In a particular embodiment, the telescopic arm is fixed to the block on which it is arranged internally or externally by means of clips, pins or screws.
    [0054]
    [0055] In a particular embodiment, the anchor point is located at the outer end of each telescopic arm at the part closest to the wall.
    [0056]
    [0057] In a particular embodiment, the device comprises a protective plate so that the strain gauge does not twist, being placed on the strain gauge, without get to have a direct contact, adjusting it as much as possible and fixed with two supports to the outside to avoid interference by friction. The plate has dimensions and shape that guarantees the protection of the entire strain gauge, with the particularity of being able to be placed and removed on demand.
    [0058]
    [0059] In a particular embodiment, a substructure is configured between the external part and the internal part which allows the internal part to be displaced on the external part, so as to allow a gage movement range of a few centimeters to adjust the position of the gauge and therefore of the dam.
    [0060]
    [0061] In a particular embodiment, the substructure that allows displacement comprises at least one travel lane.
    [0062]
    [0063] Finally, the placed dam can be of any size, model, type and manufacturer.
    [0064]
    [0065] BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
    [0066] Figure 1. Schematic view of the device with the adjustable cross-shaped structure.
    [0067]
    [0068] Figure 2. Schematic view of the device with the adjustable square-shaped structure.
    [0069]
    [0070] Figure 3. Schematic view of the device with another adjustable square-shaped structure.
    [0071]
    [0072] DETAILED DESCRIPTION
    [0073] The configurations that the device allows are varied, but in the drawings some illustrations of the most interesting are presented.
    [0074]
    [0075] As already mentioned, the device can be extended to fit the real and specific dimensions of each climbing wall independently, that is, each of the telescopic arms placed internally or externally in the blocks can be elongated independently. To allow greater elongations, telescopic arms of greater length can be placed internally or externally in each of the blocks, one that slides to one side of the tube and the other that slides to the other side, which allows, always within a range, extend the telescopic arm to fit the needs of the wall on which it will be used.
    [0076] Figure 1 shows the scheme of the device in the form of an adjustable cross. In this case, the device comprises two blocks 1 and 2 with four telescopic arms 3, 4, 5 and 6 and four anchor points 7, 8, 9 and 10 (an anchor point at each end of each telescopic arm that slides towards the outside). The anchoring points to the wall have a hole with the specific caliber of the screws used for anchoring the climbing dams, compatible with the bushings used to fix the dams to the wall in climbing walls.
    [0077]
    [0078] Blocks 1 and 2 make up the external part that allows the device to be fixed. Between the block 1 and the strain gauge 11, at the top of the gauge, is the connecting plate 12. Said plate 12 is disposed transversely on the block 1 to provide a rigid and supporting surface for the strain gauge 11 Similarly, between the block 1 and the gauge 11, at the bottom, is the support plate 13. In said support plate 13 the dam 14 is fixed, the bottom of the gauge 11 and the dam 14 being joined The support plate 13 is aligned frontally and at an angle of 90 ° in the sagittal plane with the gauge.
    [0079]
    [0080] The strain gauge 11 is superimposed on the external part, without being in contact with the blocks, being fixed at the top through the connecting plate 12 and at the bottom with the support plate 13. Said plate 13 is not subject to any part of the device, being completely free, so that, in this way, when traction is exerted, the gauge can record the force exerted.
    [0081]
    [0082] The specific arrangement of the dam 14 within the support plate 13 allows special configurations by rotating the dam according to the existing needs. In addition, the plate 14 used allows the use of any type and model of dam currently on the market.
    [0083]
    [0084] Also, a protection plate 15 is available on the strain gauge 11, which, without being in contact with it, prevents torsions of said strain gauge 11 and also prevents splitting or damage during use and use.
    [0085]
    [0086] Figure 2 shows the scheme of the device in the form of an adjustable square. In this case, the device comprises four blocks 16, 17, 18 and 19, each block with two telescopic arms 20-27 and with four anchor points 7, 8, 9 and 10 to the wall. The anchorage points are shared by the telescopic supportive arms and are located so oblique In the same way as in the previous figure, each anchor point has a hole with the specific caliber of the thymes used for anchoring the climbing dams, compatible with the bushes used to fix the dams to the wall in climbing walls. This part allows to fix the device to the wall, allowing to adapt completely thanks to the telescopic arms.
    [0087]
    [0088] Blocks 16, 17, 18 and 19 make up the square shape of the outer part of the device to allow fixing to the wall, while block 1 is arranged vertically to allow fixing of the inner part of the device. Said fixed block 1 can move along the entire length of block 16, which allows the internal part of the device to be displaced. The connecting plate 12, the gauge 11 and the support plate 13 on which the dam 14 is fixed are located in block 1.
    [0089]
    [0090] As in the previous example, the specific arrangement of the dam 14 within the support plate 13 allows special configurations. Similarly, the plate 14 used allows the use of any type and model of prey currently available in the market.
    [0091]
    [0092] Figure 3 shows another scheme of the device in the form of an adjustable square. In this case, the device comprises four blocks 16, 17, 18 and 19 with eight telescopic arms 20-27 and four anchor points 7, 8, 9 and 10, located as in the previous case, obliquely between the telescopic arms solidarity. Blocks 16, 17, 18 and 19 make up the square shape of the external part of the device to allow fixing to the wall, while blocks 1 and 28 are parallel and allow the fixing of the inner part to the fixed structure. In this way, between the two fixed blocks, the strain gauge 11 is connected together with the connecting plate 12 on its upper part and connected with the support plate 13 on its lower part. The dam 14 is fixed on the plate 13. This block 28 which is arranged parallel to the block 1 also comprises two telescopic arms 29 and 30.
    [0093] The assembly signed by the elements of the block 28 connected to the support plate 13 where the dam 14 is fixed, in turn connected to the gauge 11 and this in turn to the connecting plate 12, remains free although forming a unit that It moves together. For this, there are some non-pressed screws with half a centimeter of range amplitude that have a double function, on the one hand, they work as a stop so that the gauge does not twist when the tensile force is applied, and on the other hand, the Existing clearance ensures that the gauge has a range of displacement that allows it to record the tensile force exerted on the dam.
    [0094] Again in this case, the specific arrangement of the dam 14 within the support plate 13 allows special configurations and the use of any type and model of dam currently existing in the market.
    权利要求:
    Claims (11)
    [1]
    1. Device for the evaluation, monitoring and control of the force exerted on dams during climbing that consists of a structure of rigid and resistant material comprising at least:
    an external part for fixing the structure comprising at least one fixed block and at least one telescopic arm, which can be placed externally or internally with respect to the fixed block, and with at least one anchor point,
    and an internal part comprising at least one strain gauge that is integral at its top with a joint plate placed transversely to the fixed block at an angle of 90 ° with the wall and integral at its bottom with a support plate, in ele, also placed transversely to the block at an angle of 90 ° with the wall, where on one of the sides the dam is positioned aligned frontally and forming an angle of 90 ° in the sagittal plane with the gauge.
    [2]
    2. Device for the evaluation, monitoring and control of the force exerted on dams during climbing according to claim 1, wherein the external part comprises two fixed blocks placed perpendicularly in the form of a cross, where two telescopic arms are placed in each block and with an anchor point located at the outer end of each telescopic arm.
    [3]
    3. Device for the evaluation, monitoring and control of the force exerted on dams during climbing according to claim 1, wherein the external part also comprises four fixed blocks in the form of a square or rectangle, each block with two telescopic arms and with a point of anchorage located obliquely and that is shared by two telescopic solidarity arms, and where a fixed block is placed vertically across the structure.
    [4]
    4. Device for the evaluation, monitoring and control of the force exerted on dams during climbing according to claim 1, wherein the external part also comprises four fixed blocks in the form of a square or rectangle, each block with two telescopic arms and with a point of anchorage located obliquely and that is shared by two telescopic supportive arms, and where a fixed block is placed horizontally and another fixed block is arranged in parallel comprising two arms telescopic, so that the connecting plate, the gauge and the support plate are fixed between the two blocks.
    [5]
    5. Device for the evaluation, monitoring and control of the force exerted on dams during climbing according to claim 1, wherein the external part also comprises a block with a circular shape divided into two semicircles to elongate the structure.
    [6]
    6. Device for the evaluation, monitoring and control of the force exerted on dams during climbing according to claim 1, wherein the external part also comprises three blocks forming a triangle, and each block comprises two telescopic arms to elongate the structure.
    [7]
    7. Device for the evaluation, monitoring and control of the force exerted on dams during climbing according to the preceding claims, where the telescopic arm is fixed to the block on which it is arranged internally or externally by means of clips, pins or screws.
    [8]
    8. Device for the evaluation, monitoring and control of the force exerted on dams during climbing according to the preceding claims, wherein the anchor point is located at the outer end of each telescopic arm at the part closest to the wall.
    [9]
    9. Device for the evaluation, monitoring and control of the force exerted on dams during the climbing according to the preceding claims, wherein the device comprises a protective plate so that the strain gauge does not twist, being placed on the strain gauge, without having a direct contact, adjusting it as much as possible and fixed with two supports to the external part to avoid interference by friction.
    [10]
    10. Device for the evaluation, monitoring and control of the force exerted on dams during the climbing according to the preceding claims, wherein between the external part and the internal part a substructure is configured that allows the displacement of the internal part on the external part, so that it allows a range of movement of the gauge of a few centimeters to adjust the position of the gauge and therefore of the dam.
    [11]
    11. Device for the evaluation, monitoring and control of the force exerted on dams during climbing according to claim 10, wherein the substructure that allows the displacement comprises at least one travel lane.
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    同族专利:
    公开号 | 公开日
    ES2739660B2|2021-05-14|
    WO2020025839A1|2020-02-06|
    引用文献:
    公开号 | 申请日 | 公开日 | 申请人 | 专利标题
    US8668626B1|2010-01-25|2014-03-11|Matanya B. Horowitz|Wireless pressure sensing rock climbing handhold and dynamic method of customized routing|
    FR3017305A1|2014-02-11|2015-08-14|X Sin|DEVICE FOR AIDING THE PRACTICE OF CLIMBING ON AN ARTIFICIAL WALL|
    ES2579282A1|2015-02-06|2016-08-09|Universidad De Cádiz|System for evaluation and training for climbing |
    ES2582587A1|2015-03-11|2016-09-13|Universidad De Cádiz|Portable system for the evaluation and training of isometric strength |
    WO2017216399A1|2016-06-14|2017-12-21|Universidad De Cádiz|System for evaluating and training isometric force using a guide system|
    法律状态:
    2020-02-03| BA2A| Patent application published|Ref document number: 2739660 Country of ref document: ES Kind code of ref document: A1 Effective date: 20200203 |
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    优先权:
    申请号 | 申请日 | 专利标题
    ES201830803A|ES2739660B2|2018-08-03|2018-08-03|DEVICE FOR THE EVALUATION, MONITORING AND CONTROL OF THE FORCE EXERCISED ON DAMS DURING CLIMBING FOR ITS EXCLUSIVE APPLICATION ON ROCODROMES|ES201830803A| ES2739660B2|2018-08-03|2018-08-03|DEVICE FOR THE EVALUATION, MONITORING AND CONTROL OF THE FORCE EXERCISED ON DAMS DURING CLIMBING FOR ITS EXCLUSIVE APPLICATION ON ROCODROMES|
    PCT/ES2019/070411| WO2020025839A1|2018-08-03|2019-06-12|Device for evaluating, monitoring and controlling the force exerted on climbing holds during climbing|
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