METHOD FOR CHANGING HAIR COLOR

专利摘要:
the description relates to compositions for treating keratinous substrates, such as hair, comprising monoethanolamine and at least one carboxylic acid, and also to systems and methods for treating keratinous substrates with the compositions.
公开号:BR112018010341B1
申请号:R112018010341-1
申请日:2016-11-24
公开日:2021-08-10
发明作者:Kimberly Christine Dreher；Gerard Provot；Dariusz DANIELSKI；Fabien Pascal Boulineau；Caroline Rahmouna Francoise Goget；Anthony Potin；Allison Chin；Michael DeGeorge；Mara APPLEBAUM；Mary Abraam Soliman；Ashley Ann Figatner；Megan PAUKER；Emmanuel Appiah- Amponsah
申请人:L'oreal；
IPC主号:

专利说明:

TECHNICAL FIELD
[1] The present description relates to compositions for use in the treatment of keratinous substrates such as hair. FUNDAMENTALS
[2] It is known that consumers want to use cosmetic and care compositions that improve the appearance of keratinous substrates such as hair, for example, by changing the color, style, and/or shape of the hair, and/or by granting various properties to the hair, such as shine and conditioning. Many of the known compositions and known processes for improving the appearance of hair involve chemical treatment of hair.
[3] The process of changing hair color, for example, may involve the deposition of an artificial dye onto the hair that provides a different hue or color to the hair, and/or performs hair color “lifting” such as lightening from dark hair color to lighter nuances. The process of "lifting" hair color, also known as lightening, generally requires the use of compositions comprising at least one oxidizing agent.
[4] Hair color lightening or “lifting” is typically assessed by varying the height of the shade before and after applying a hair color altering composition to the hair. This variation corresponds to the degree or level of whitening or “lift”. The notion of “hue” is based on the classification of natural hues, a hue separating each hue from the hue immediately after or before it, which is well known by hairdressers. Shade heights or levels range from 1 (black) to 10 (light blonde), one unit corresponding to one shade; therefore, the higher the number, the clearer the nuance or the higher the degree of “lift”.
[005] In general, hair lightening or hair color lifting compositions and hair dyeing compositions have an alkalinity such that these compositions have a pH value above 7, typically being pH 9 and above, and may, in general, require the presence of an alkalizing agent such as ammonia or an ammonia gas generating compound and/or an amine or ammonium-based compound in sufficient amounts to make such compositions alkaline. The alkalizing agent causes the hair to swell, thereby allowing small molecules of oxidative dye to penetrate the cuticle and cortex before the oxidative condensation process is complete. The larger colored complexes resulting from the oxidative reaction are then trapped within the hair fiber, thus permanently changing the hair color.
[006] Additionally, there are many techniques and compositions for styling or changing the shape of hair. For example, hair care products called "hair relaxers" or "hair straighteners" can relax or straighten curly or frizzy hair, including wavy hair. Straightening or relaxing curls of highly curly hair can increase the handleability and ease of styling of such hair. Compositions for permanent hair curling will provide a curl or wave to differently straightened hair. Different types of compositions can be applied to the hair in order to change its shape or make it more manageable, such as alkaline and acid compositions. Relaxers, straighteners, perms and/or hair waves can be applied either at a hair salon by a professional or at home by the individual consumer.
[007] Although dyeing or color lifting compositions can effectively change the color of hair, and relaxation, straightening, perming, and curling compositions can effectively change the shape of hair, these chemical treatments can damage the hair. hair fibers and/or irritate the scalp. Thus, in order to reduce or avoid the above mentioned disadvantages, and also to improve the cosmetic performance of the compositions, the use of new and additional components and new combinations of ingredients is continually aimed at.
[008] However, the choice of components or combinations of ingredients could present difficulties as they cannot be detrimental to other cosmetic attributes such as ease and uniformity of application, viscosity or rheology properties, and stability of the compositions, deposit of dye and target shade formation, and/or result in major disadvantages such as increased damage or a less healthy appearance of hair. It would therefore be desirable to provide the consumer with compositions and methods that can treat the hair, for example, "lift" the hair color and/or deposit dye onto the hair in an efficient manner, while providing other cosmetic advantages such as shine, conditioning, fiber strength, and/or healthy appearance to hair, but avoiding or minimizing hair damage.
[009] In addition, hair both natural and sensitized or chemically treated may contain various types of negatively charged moieties, for example, carboxylates (resulting from the hydrolysis of amino acids and thioester bonds) and/or sulfonates (resulting from the oxidation of disulfide bonds) . These negatively charged portions can degrade the hair's cosmetic properties.
[0010] Furthermore, when hair is chemically treated or damaged, the disulfide bonds in the hair (disulfide bonds between two cysteine units) can be reduced or broken, resulting in the formation of thiol and/or cysteic acid groups. Cysteine bridges, or disulfide bonds, are the strongest bonds present in the hair's internal network and play a very important role in hair strength. Cosmetic treatments, such as bleaching, straightening, or permanent waving of hair, can permanently alter these bonds causing the formation of cysteic acid. As such, increased amounts of cysteic acid in the hair suggest that the hair is damaged.
[0011] Thus, an aim of the description is to provide new compositions that can provide advantageous effects such as hair fiber strength, protection of hair fibers from further damage or damage, improved properties such as softness, shine, conditioning, healthy appearance, while which, at the same time, provide desired effects such as coloring, whitening, smoothing, relaxing, and/or structuring (shaping change). SUMMARY
[0012] The present description relates to compositions and systems for treating keratinous substrates, such as hair, and, furthermore, methods for treating keratinous substrates with the compositions and systems described herein.
[0013] According to various embodiments, the description relates to hair care compositions comprising monoethanolamine (MEA) and at least one carboxylic acid. Treatment compositions can optionally be used in conjunction with chemical treatments as compositions or agents for altering the color or shape of hair, including compositions for dyeing hair or for lightening hair, or compositions for structuring (shaping) hair. hair, and/or for permanent waving of hair, or can be used with hair treatment compositions which are non-color or shape altering compositions. The treatment compositions can also optionally be applied directly to the hair, and/or can be mixed with water or another solvent or other composition, and applied to the hair.
[0014] This description further relates to hair conditioning compositions comprising monoethanolamine and at least one carboxylic acid. In further embodiments, the description relates to hair treatment systems comprising the treatment compositions and conditioning compositions according to the description, and the use of the systems together with the compositions for changing the color and/or shape of hair.
Exemplary methods comprise applying the treatment composition according to the description to the hair prior to, during, and/or after the application to the hair of a color altering composition. Other exemplifying methods comprise applying a conditioning composition, as described, to the hair after applying the treatment composition. The methods as per the description can provide cosmetic advantages such as shine, conditioning, fiber strength, and/or a healthy appearance to dyed hair, and/or prevent or minimize damage to hair that may, under other conditions, occur with processes for alter hair by dyeing, bleaching or other chemical processes.
Additional exemplifying methods comprise applying the treatment composition according to the description to the hair prior to, during, and/or after the application to the hair of a hair structuring composition. The methods as described can provide cosmetic advantages such as shine, conditioning, fiber strength, and/or a healthy appearance to structured hair, and minimize hair damage that may, under other conditions, occur with processes to alter hair by structuring process or other chemical processes.
[0017] Additional exemplifying methods comprise applying the treatment composition, in accordance with the description, to the hair, prior to, during, and/or after application to the hair, of a composition that is a non-color-altering composition. or the format. Additional exemplary methods comprise applying the treatment composition according to the description to the hair prior to, during, and/or after application to the hair of water or other solvent. The methods as described can provide cosmetic advantages such as shine, conditioning, fiber strength, and/or a healthy appearance to structured hair, and minimize hair damage.
According to various embodiments, the exemplary hair care systems comprise treatment compositions comprising monoethanolamine and at least one carboxylic acid; conditioning compositions comprising monoethanolamine and at least one carboxylic acid; and, optionally, a composition or an agent for altering the color or shape of the hair. In some embodiments, the at least one carboxylic acid in the treatment composition and the at least one carboxylic acid in the conditioning composition of the systems are the same. In some embodiments, the at least one carboxylic acid in the treatment composition and the at least one carboxylic acid in the conditioning composition of the systems are different. Other embodiments of hair care systems comprise treatment compositions comprising monoethanolamine and malonic acid; conditioning compositions comprising monoethanolamine and maleic acid; and, optionally, a composition or an agent for altering the color or shape of the hair. Still other modalities of hair care systems comprise treatment compositions comprising monoethanolamine and malonic acid; conditioning compositions comprising monoethanolamine and maleic acid; and, optionally, a composition or an agent for altering the color or shape of the hair.
According to various embodiments, hair care kits may comprise: a first compartment containing a treatment composition comprising monoethanolamine and at least one carboxylic acid; and a second compartment containing a conditioning composition comprising monoethanolamine and at least one carboxylic acid.
[0018] In other embodiments, hair treatment or hair color altering kits may comprise: a first compartment containing a treatment composition comprising monoethanolamine and at least one carboxylic acid, and optionally a composition or an agent for altering the color. hair color; and a second compartment containing a conditioning composition comprising monoethanolamine and at least one carboxylic acid. In still other embodiments, hair treatment or hair color altering kits may comprise: a first compartment containing a treatment composition comprising monoethanolamine and at least one carboxylic acid; a second compartment containing a conditioning composition comprising monoethanolamine and at least one carboxylic acid; and one or more additional compartments containing one or more agents or one or more hair color altering compositions.
[0019] In other embodiments, hair care or hair shaping kits may comprise: a first compartment containing a treatment composition comprising monoethanolamine and at least one carboxylic acid, and optionally a composition or an agent for changing the hair. hair shape; and a second compartment containing a conditioning composition comprising monoethanolamine and at least one carboxylic acid. In other embodiments, hair care or hair shaping kits may comprise: a first compartment containing a treatment composition comprising monoethanolamine and at least one carboxylic acid; a second compartment containing a conditioning composition comprising monoethanolamine and at least one carboxylic acid; and one or more additional compartments containing one or more agents or one or more hair shaping agents or compositions.
[0020] In other embodiments, kits for hair treatment or for changing the color or shape of hair may comprise: a first compartment containing a treatment composition comprising monoethanolamine and malonic acid, and optionally a composition or an agent for altering the hair. hair color or shape; and a second compartment containing a conditioning composition comprising monoethanolamine and maleic acid. In still other embodiments, kits for treating hair or for changing the color or shape of hair may comprise: a first compartment containing a treatment composition comprising monoethanolamine and malonic acid; a second compartment containing a conditioning composition comprising monoethanolamine and maleic acid; and one or more additional compartments containing one or more agents or one or more compositions for altering the color or shape of hair.
[0021] In other embodiments, kits for treating hair or for changing the color or shape of hair may comprise: a first compartment containing a treatment composition comprising monoethanolamine and maleic acid, and optionally a composition or an agent for altering the hair. hair color or shape; and a second compartment containing a conditioning composition comprising monoethanolamine and maleic acid. In still other embodiments, kits for treating hair or for changing the color or shape of hair may comprise: a first compartment containing a treatment composition comprising monoethanolamine and maleic acid; a second compartment containing a conditioning composition comprising monoethanolamine and maleic acid; and one or more additional compartments containing one or more agents or one or more compositions for altering the color or shape of hair. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
[0022] The present description and claims can be better understood from the following detailed description either alone or together with the attached drawings. The drawings are included to provide further understanding, and are incorporated in, and form part of, this descriptive report. The drawings illustrate one or more exemplary embodiments of the present description and together with the description serve to explain various principles and operations.
[0023] Figures 1 to 6 show sensory data comparing the strength and tactile substance relating to hair samples treated with a bleaching composition containing a hair treatment composition according to an embodiment of the description containing MEA and carboxylic acid in relation to hair samples treated with MEA alone, pH adjusted MEA, carboxylic acid alone, and pH adjusted carboxylic acid, where baseline (0) is the standard hair bleach formulation without additive.
[0024] Figure 1 shows the sensory comparison in relation to MEA and citric acid.
[0025] Figure 2 shows the sensory comparison in relation to MEA and malonic acid.
[0026] Figure 3 shows the sensory comparison in relation to MEA and malic acid.
[0027] Figure 4 shows the sensory comparison in relation to MEA and maleic acid.
[0028] Figure 5 shows the sensory comparison in relation to MEA and oxalic acid.
[0029] Figure 6 shows the results of the effect of pH on the sensory comparison in relation to MEA and malonic acid. DETAILED DESCRIPTION
[0030] Except in the operational examples, or where otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing amounts of ingredients and/or reaction conditions are to be understood as being modified in all cases by the term "about" which may encompass ± 10 %, ± 8%, ± 6%, ±5%, ± 4%, ± 3%, ± 2%, ± 1%, or ± 0.5%.
[0031] All numbers expressing pH values are to be understood as being modified in all cases by the term "about" which encompasses up to ± 3%.
[0032] "At least one", as used herein, means one or more and therefore includes individual components, and mixtures and/or combinations as well.
[0033] A "chemical treatment" composition as described herein may include any composition for chemically treating hair, such as by way of non-limiting example, permanent curl, relaxation, straightening, oxidative dyeing, coloring and bleaching (e.g., discoloration, lights effect). The terms "chemical treatment composition", "color altering composition", and "format altering composition", and also variations thereof, may be used interchangeably herein without limitation.
"Systems", as used herein, means comprising compositions for treatment in accordance with the description and conditioning compositions in accordance with the description.
[0035] The term "color change" or "color change" as used herein may refer to "lifting" or lightening the color of hair. It can also refer to dyeing or coloring the hair or deposition of dye on the hair. In certain cases, it refers to “lifting” or lightening the hair color and the deposition of dye on the hair in a treatment.
[0036] The term "strength", as used herein, may refer to the strength of the hair fiber with respect to the ease or difficulty of breaking a hair fiber, or the amount of effort or force required to break the fiber when is subjected to a pulling, pulling, stretching, or brushing action.
[0037] The term "protection" as used herein may refer to preventing, minimizing, or reducing damage or additional damage to the hair.
"Hydrocarbons" as used herein include alkanes, alkenes, and alkynes, the alkanes comprising at least one carbon, and the alkenes and alkynes each comprising at least two carbons; it further being that the hydrocarbons may be chosen from linear hydrocarbons, branched hydrocarbons, and cyclic hydrocarbons; wherein additionally the hydrocarbons may be optionally substituted; and wherein in addition the hydrocarbons may optionally further comprise at least one heteroatom intercalated in the hydrocarbon chain.
"Substituted", as used herein, means comprising at least one substituent. Non-limiting examples of substituents include atoms such as oxygen atoms and nitrogen atoms, and also functional groups such as hydroxyl groups, ether groups, alkoxy groups, acyloxyalkyl groups, oxyalkylene groups, polyoxyalkylene groups, carboxylic acid groups, amine groups, acylamino groups, amide group, halogen containing groups, ester groups, thiol groups, sulfonate groups, thiosulfate groups, siloxane groups, and polysiloxane groups. The substituent(s) may be further substituted.
[0040] "Polymers", as defined herein, include homopolymers and copolymers formed from at least two different types of monomers.
[0041] "(Met)acrylic", as used herein, is understood to mean, within the meaning of the present application, "acrylic or methacrylic".
The term "neutralized" as used herein is intended to mean that monoethanolamine is protonated with an H+ (proton) from the carboxylic acid(s).
[0043] The term "substantially free of (a component)", as defined herein, means that the system or composition contains no appreciable amount of the component, for example, not more than about 1% by weight, not more than 0 .5% by weight, or no more than about 0.3% by weight, such as no more than about 0.1% by weight, based on the weight of the composition.
[0044] The term "free or completely free from (a component)", as defined herein, means that the composition does not contain the component to any degree measurable by standard means.
[0045] As used herein, a carboxylic acid is described as being present in a composition irrespective of whether the carboxylic acid is present in acidic form or whether the acid is dissociated or forms a salt thereof, for example after mixing with a solution or other formulation. Accordingly, if a composition (e.g., a treatment composition, a conditioning composition, or a composition for altering the color or shape of hair) is described herein as comprising an acid, or comprising a certain amount of an acid, but the acid is dissociated or forms a salt in the composition, the description is intended to refer to the acid or the amount thereof present prior to dissociation or salt formation. By way of example only, if a treatment composition comprising MEA and maleic acid is mixed with a liquid hair bleach composition, and in the hair bleach composition the maleic acid forms a maleic acid salt so that no or substantially no maleic acid is present in the mixture, any reference to the hair bleach composition comprising maleic acid or a specific amount of maleic acid is intended to refer to maleic acid or the amount thereof present in the treatment composition before it is mixed with the bleaching composition. hair. TREATMENT COMPOSITIONS
[0046] As used herein, the description refers to compositions for treatment comprising monoethanolamine and at least one carboxylic acid. Treatment compositions may additionally comprise additional components such as solvents. In one embodiment, the treatment composition consists essentially of monoethanolamine, one or more carboxylic acids, and one or more solvents. In another embodiment, the treatment composition consists essentially of monoethanolamine, one or more carboxylic acids, one or more solvents, and one or more coloring agents. In yet another embodiment, the composition for treatment consists of monoethanolamine, one or more carboxylic acids, and one or more solvents. In yet a further embodiment, the composition for treatment consists of monoethanolamine, one or more carboxylic acids, one or more solvents, and one or more coloring agents. Monoethanolamine
[0047] Monoethanolamine may be present in the treatment composition in an amount of up to about 20%, such as up to about 19%, up to about 18%, up to about 17%, up to about 16%, up to about 15%, up to about 14%, up to about 13%, up to about 12%, up to about 11%, up to about 10%, up to about 9%, up to about 8%, up to about 7% , up to about 6%, up to about 5%, up to about 4%, up to about 3%, up to about 2%, up to about 1%, up to about 0.5%, or up to about 0 .1% by weight, based on the weight of the treatment composition. By way of non-limiting example only, monoethanolamine may be present in an amount in the range of from about 0.0001% to about 20%, such as from about 0.001% to about 15%, from about 0.01% to about 10%, or from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight, based on the weight of the treatment composition. In various exemplary embodiments, monoethanolamine can be present in an amount ranging from about 1% to about 10%, such as from about 2% to about 8%, from about 3% to about 7%, of from about 4% to about 6%, from about 4% to about 5%, or from about 5% to about 6%, such as from about 1%, from about 2%, from about 3 %, from about 4%, from about 5%, from about 6%, from about 7%, from about 8%, from about 9%, or from about 10% by weight, based on the weight of the treatment composition. carboxylic acids
[0048] The compositions for treatment, according to the description, can comprise at least one carboxylic acid. According to the description, useful carboxylic acids include organic compounds that include, for example, one, two, three, or more carboxylic acid (COOH) functional groups and at least one carbon atom.
[0049] In certain exemplary, non-limiting embodiments, the at least one carboxylic acid can be chosen from saturated or unsaturated, substituted or unsubstituted dicarboxylic acids, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof. By way of non-limiting example, the at least one carboxylic acid can be chosen from among dicarboxylic acids of the following formula:
wherein: -R is a C1-C100 cyclic or acyclic hydrocarbon moiety, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, comprising from 0 to 30 double and/or triple bonds and/or from 0 to 10 rings, and optionally interrupted by 1 to 30 heteroatoms chosen from O, N and S, and optionally substituted with 1 to 30 substituents chosen from a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl moiety (-OH), an amino moiety (-NH2), an alkyl (C1-C30)amino moiety a poly(C1-C30)alkylamino moiety, a hydroxy(C1-C30)alkylamino moiety, a polyhydroxy(C1-C30)alkylamino moiety, a C6-C30 aryl moiety, and in some embodiments -R may be omitted; and -X and X' independently denote a hydrogen atom, an ammonium ion, an alkali metal ion such as Li, Na, K, or an alkaline earth metal such as Be, Mg, Ca or an ion derived from an organic amine as an alkylamine.
[0050] It is understood that the term cyclic hydrocarbon portion for the purposes of the present application is understood to mean a hydrocarbon portion consisting of one or more rings or comprising one or more rings that are pendant or on the main chain, it being possible for the rings to be saturated or unsaturated and are substituted with one or more C1-C30 alkyl or alkenyl or hydroxyl or amino moieties.
[0051] By way of non-limiting example only, useful carboxylic acids may include oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, glutaric acid, citraconic acid, citric acid, maleic acid, glycolic acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, sebacic acid, benzoic acid, and glyoxylic acid monohydrate, and also combinations thereof. In at least one embodiment, the composition for treatment comprises at least one carboxylic acid chosen from maleic acid, malonic acid, citric acid, and combinations thereof, and optionally at least one additional carboxylic acid. In further embodiments, the composition for treatment comprises at least one carboxylic acid other than maleic acid. In still other embodiments, the treatment composition is free or substantially free of maleic acid.
[0052] The at least one carboxylic acid may be present in the composition for treatment in an amount of up to about 50%, such as up to about 45%, up to about 40%, up to about 35%, up to about 30% , up to about 29%, up to about 28%, up to about 27%, up to about 26%, up to about 25%, up to about 24%, up to about 23%, up to about 22%, up to up to about 21%, up to about 20%, up to about 19%, up to about 18%, up to about 17%, up to about 16%, up to about 15%, up to about 14%, up to about from 13%, up to about 12%, up to about 11%, up to about 10%, up to about 9%, up to about 8%, up to about 7%, up to about 6%, up to about 5 %, up to about 4%, up to about 3%, up to about 2%, up to about 1%, up to about 0.5%, or up to about 0.1% by weight, based on the weight of the composition for treatment. By way of non-limiting example only, the at least one carboxylic acid may be present in an amount in the range of from about 0.01% to about 30%, such as from about 0.1% to about 25%, of from about 1% to about 20%, from about 5% to about 15%, or from about 8% to about 13% by weight, based on the weight of the treatment composition. In other exemplary embodiments, the at least one carboxylic acid can be present in an amount ranging from about 5% to about 25%, such as from about 2% to about 10%, from about 8% to about 23%, from about 10% to about 25%, or from about 12% to about 25% by weight, based on the weight of the treatment composition. For example, the at least one carboxylic acid can be present in the treatment composition in an amount of from about 5% to about 15%, from about 8% to about 13%, such as about 8% to about 11%. %, from about 8% to about 10%, from about 9% to about 13%, from about 9% to about 12%, from about 9% to about 11%, from about 10 % to about 13%, from about 10% to about 12%, from about 10% to about 11%, from about 11% to about 14%, from about 11% to about 13% , from about 12% to about 13%, from about 20% to about 25%, from about 21% to about 24%, from about 22% to about 23%, as about 5% , of about 6%, of about 7%, of about 8%, of about 9%, of about 10%, of about 11%, of about 12%, of about 13%, of about 14%, about 15%, about 16%, about 17%, about 18%, about 19%, about 20%, about 21%, about about 22%, about 23%, about 24%, or about 25%, by weight, based on the powder. weight of the composition for treatment. It should be understood that when more than one carboxylic acid is present, the total amount of carboxylic acids may be present in these amounts. Solvent
[0053] The composition for treatment may additionally comprise at least one solvent. In various exemplary and non-limiting embodiments, the solvent may be chosen from cosmetically acceptable solvents chosen from water, at least one cosmetically acceptable organic solvent, and mixtures thereof.
[0054] Organic solvents can be volatile or non-volatile compounds. As examples of organic solvents, non-limiting examples include monoalcohols and polyols such as ethanol, isopropyl alcohol, propyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol, and phenylethanol, or glycols or glycol ethers such as, for example, monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, glycol propylene or ethers thereof such as, for example, propylene glycol, butyl glycol, hexylene glycol monomethyl ether, dipropylene glycol, and also alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, for example monomethyl ether or diethylene glycol monobutyl ether.
[0055] Other suitable examples of organic solvents are ethylenic glycol, propylene glycol, butylenic glycol, hexylene glycol, propanediol, and glycerin.
[0056] The cosmetically acceptable solvent may comprise an amount in the range of up to about 95%, such as up to about 90%, up to about 85%, up to about 80%, up to about 75%, up to about 70% , up to about 65%, up to about 60%, up to about 55%, or up to about 50%, by weight, based on the weight of the treatment composition. For example, the cosmetically acceptable solvent can range from about 65% to about 95% by weight, from about 70% to about 90% by weight, or from about 80% to about 85% by weight. , or from about 5% to about 20% by weight, based on the weight of the treatment composition.
[0057] Additional components may optionally be present in the composition for treatment. By way of example only, the treatment composition may comprise coloring agents (including but not limited to permanent, demi-permanent, or semi-permanent hair coloring agents), pH adjusters, emulsifiers, thickening agents and rheology modifying agents, cationic polymers, wetting and moisturizing agents, chelating agents such as glycine, emulsifying agents, fillers, structuring agents, propellants, anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, brightening agents, conditioning agents, and reinforcing agents.
[0058] The pH of the composition for treatment can range from up to about 7, such as from about 1 to about 6, from about 1 to about 4, such as from about 2 to about 4, from about from 2.5 to about 3.5, or from about 2 to about 3.
[0059] The treatment composition can, in various modalities, be applied to the hair within about 24 hours, such as less than 24 hours or less than 12 hours, before or after a color or color change composition. hair shape. In at least certain exemplary embodiments, the treatment composition can be applied to the hair within a few hours or a few minutes before or after the color or shape change composition. For example, the treatment composition can be applied within about 1 to about 6 hours before or after the color or shape change composition, or it can be applied for up to about 60 minutes, such as up to about 60 minutes. 30 minutes, up to about 20 minutes, up to about 10 minutes, up to about 5 minutes, up to about 2 minutes, or up to about 1 minute before or after the color or shape change composition.
In yet other embodiments, the treatment composition may be applied to the hair at the same time or substantially at the same time as the color or shape change composition. For example, the treatment composition can be mixed with the color or shape change composition, or it can be applied simultaneously with the color or shape change composition. In various exemplary embodiments in which the treatment composition is mixed with the color or shape altering composition, the pH of the resulting mixture can be in the range, for example, from about 7 to about 12, such as from about 8 to about 11, from about 9 to about 11, or from about 10 to about 11.
[0061] In still other embodiments, the treatment composition may be applied to the hair within about 24 hours, such as less than 24 hours or less than 12 hours, before or after a composition that is not a change composition. the color or shape of the hair. In at least certain exemplary embodiments, the treatment composition can be applied to the hair within a few hours or a few minutes before or after the composition that is not a hair color or shape change composition. For example, the treatment composition can be applied within about 1 to about 6 hours before or after the composition that is not a hair color or shape change composition, or it can be applied up to about 60 minutes, such as up to about 30 minutes, up to about 20 minutes, up to about 10 minutes, up to about 5 minutes, up to about 2 minutes, or up to about 1 minute before or after the composition other than is a composition for changing the color or shape of hair.
In yet other embodiments, the treatment composition may be applied to the hair at the same time or substantially the same time as a hair composition that is not a color or shape change composition. For example, the treatment composition can be mixed with a composition that is not a hair color or shape change composition, or it can be applied simultaneously with a hair treatment composition.
[0063] In yet another embodiment, the treatment composition may be mixed with water and applied to the hair.
The composition for treatment can be left on the hair for a period of time in the range of up to one hour, such as from about 3 minutes to about 45 minutes, from about 5 minutes to about 30 minutes, or from about 5 minutes to about 30 minutes. about 10 minutes to about 20 minutes. In other embodiments, the treatment composition may be left on the hair for a period of up to 30 minutes, such as from about 1 to about 30 minutes, from about 1 to about 10 minutes, or from about 1 to about 10 minutes. from 1 to about 5 minutes. Exemplary component combinations and quantities
According to various embodiments, the composition for treatment can include monoethanolamine and a combination of carboxylic acids. By way of non-limiting example, the composition for treatment may include monoethanolamine and a combination of two carboxylic acids, such as malonic acid and citric acid, malonic acid and oxalic acid, malonic acid and maleic acid, malonic acid and malic acid, citric acid and oxalic acid, citric acid and maleic acid, citric acid and malic acid, oxalic acid and maleic acid, oxalic acid and malic acid, maleic acid and malic acid, and so on. In other embodiments, the treatment composition can include monoethanolamine and combinations of three or more carboxylic acids.
In some embodiments, the composition for treatment can include monoethanolamine and one or more saturated carboxylic acids, and can be free or substantially free of unsaturated carboxylic acids. In other embodiments, the composition for treatment can include monoethanolamine and one or more unsaturated carboxylic acids, and can be free or substantially free of saturated carboxylic acids. In still other embodiments, the composition for treatment can include monoethanolamine and both saturated carboxylic acids (e.g., oxalic acid, malonic acid, glutaric acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, glycolic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, sebacic acid , glyoxylic acid monohydrate) or unsaturated carboxylic acids (maleic acid, fumaric acid, benzoic acid, citraconic acid).
In certain exemplary embodiments, the composition for treatment may include from about 2% by weight to about 10% by weight monoethanolamine, such as from about 3% by weight to about 8% by weight, from about 4 % by weight to about 6% by weight monoethanolamine, or about 5.5% by weight, based on the weight of the treatment composition. In certain exemplary embodiments, the composition for treatment can include from about 5% by weight to about 25% by weight of carboxylic acids, such as from about 6% by weight to about 23% by weight, from about 7% by weight to about 22% by weight, from about 9% to about 13%, from about 10% to about 13%, or from about 9% by weight to about 12% by weight of carboxylic acids , based on the weight of the treatment composition.
By way of non-limiting example only, the composition for treatment may include from about 5% by weight to about 6% by weight monoethanolamine and from about 21% by weight to about 24% by weight of carboxylic acids such as from about 21.5% by weight to about 23% by weight, for example citric acid, and/or malic acid, based on the weight of the treatment composition. In other embodiments, the composition for treatment can include from about 5% by weight to about 6% by weight monoethanolamine and from about 6% by weight to about 13% by weight carboxylic acids, such as from about 10% by weight to about 11% by weight, for example maleic acid, from about 12% by weight to about 13% by weight, for example malonic acid, or from about 6% to about 7%, by example of oxalic acid, based on the weight of the treatment composition.
[0069] According to certain embodiments, the total combined amount of monoethanolamine and carboxylic acid present in the treatment composition can be in the range of up to about 50%, such as from about 0.1% to about 40%, from about from 1% to about 35%, from about 1% to about 30%, from about 2% to about 25%, from about 5% to about 25%, or about 8% to about 23% by weight, based on the weight of the treatment composition.
[0070] Without intending to limit the description, it may, in various embodiments, be advantageous to choose certain amounts of monoethanolamine, at least one carboxylic acid, solvent, and/or optionally any additional component in the composition for treatment, or component ratios in relation to one another, for the purpose of providing or improving the synergistic results of their combinations. COLOR CHANGING COMPOSITION
Before, after, or simultaneously with the treatment composition, a color altering composition can be applied to the hair. In various exemplary embodiments, the color altering composition can comprise a hair bleaching agent. For example, the color altering composition can be formed by combining, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier, a bleaching composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent chosen from persulfates, perborates, percarbonates, peracids, bromates, their salts and mixtures thereof, and a descriptor composition comprising hydrogen peroxide. In other embodiments, the oxidizing agent and the describing composition may be separate. In still other embodiments, the color altering composition can comprise at least one coloring compound chosen from oxidative dye precursors, direct dyes, pigments, and mixtures thereof. bleaching agent
[0072] According to various embodiments, the color altering composition may comprise, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier, at least one oxidizing agent chosen from peroxides, persulfates, perborates, percarbonates, peracids, bromates, their salts and mixtures thereof. The at least one oxidizing agent can optionally be water soluble.
[0073] Optional peroxides useful herein include, for example, hydrogen peroxide, magnesium peroxide, PVP-peroxide, calcium peroxide, and sodium peroxide.
Exemplary, non-limiting persulfates include potassium persulfate, sodium persulfate, and ammonium persulfate. In various embodiments, exemplary oxidizing agents can be chosen from sodium perborate and sodium percarbonate. In other embodiments, exemplary peracids may be chosen from organic peracids having the general formula (I): RC(O)OOH (I) wherein, in formula (I), R is chosen from aryl, alkylaryl or straight-chain alkyl groups or branched, saturated or unsaturated, substituted or unsubstituted, having from 1 to 22 carbon atoms. In at least some exemplary embodiments, mixtures of two or more oxidizing agents selected from persulfates, perborates, percarbonates, peracids, bromates, and salts thereof may be chosen.
[0075] In various embodiments, the at least one bleaching agent is chosen from alkali metal salts of perborates, percarbonates, bromates, and persulfates, such as, for example, ammonium, sodium, and potassium salts. Discoloring composition
[0076] When the color altering composition comprises separate bleaching and descriptor compositions, the bleaching composition may comprise at least one oxidizing agent chosen from persulfates, perborates, percarbonates, peracids, bromates, their salts, and mixtures thereof, such as those described above . In various embodiments, the at least one oxidizing agent is chosen from alkali metal salts of perborates, percarbonates, bromates, and persulfates, such as, for example, ammonium, sodium, and potassium salts. The bleaching composition may also optionally comprise a cosmetically acceptable carrier.
[0077] The at least one oxidizing agent of bleaching compositions, according to various modalities of the description, is used in an amount sufficient to lighten or "bleach" the hair. By way of example only, the at least one oxidizing agent of the decolorizing composition may be present in an amount ranging from about 10% by weight to about 100% by weight, such as from about 20% to about 90% by weight. weight, from about 30% to about 80% by weight, or from about 40% to about 75% by weight, based on the weight of the bleach composition. In other embodiments, the at least one oxidizing agent of the decolorizing composition can be present in an amount in the range of from about 5% to about 50%, such as from about 10% to about 45%, or from about 15% at about 40%. In an exemplary embodiment, the at least one oxidizing agent of the bleaching composition can be present in an amount of at least 40% by weight, based on the weight of the bleaching composition.
[0078] The bleaching composition can be in any form, such as, for example, in the form of a powder, gel, liquid, foam, lotion, cream, mousse, and emulsion.
[0079] In various exemplary embodiments, the bleach composition can be anhydrous. Optionally, water can be added as an activator, by mixing it with the bleaching composition.
[0080] The bleaching composition of the present invention may also contain acidic and alkaline pH adjusters, which are well known in the art in the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibers such as hair. Such pH adjusters include, but are not limited to, sodium metasilicate, silicate compounds, citric acid, ascorbic acid, and carbonate compounds.
[0081] The pH adjusters can, in various embodiments, be present in the bleach composition in an amount effective to provide the color altering composition with a pH in the range of about 1 to about 7 when the bleach composition is combined with the descriptor composition. By way of example, the amount of pH adjuster can be present, in various embodiments, in an amount of at least about 0.01%, such as at least about 0.1%, at least about 0. 2%, or at least about 0.5%.
[0082] According to an exemplifying embodiment, the bleaching composition is alkaline, with a pH in the range of about 7, 8, 9 or 10 to about 8, 9, 10 or 11. According to another exemplifying embodiment, the bleaching composition has a pH higher than about 7.
[0083] When the bleaching composition is in powder form, the pH can be measured in a 1% solution in water.
[0084] Colorants may also optionally be present in the bleaching compositions described herein. Useful colorants, in accordance with various embodiments of the description, are those colorants that are stable in the bleach composition, and can impart additional coloring and coloring to the hair. Exemplary hair dyes include, but are not limited to, pigments, fat-soluble dyes, direct dyes, pearlescent pigments, pearlizing agents, leuco dyes, optical brightening dyes, natural dyes, and optically variable pigments. Descriptor composition
[0085] When the color altering composition comprises separate bleaching and descriptor compositions, the descriptor composition comprises hydrogen peroxide. The descriptor composition may also optionally comprise a cosmetically acceptable carrier.
[0086] In various exemplary embodiments, hydrogen peroxide is present in an amount of at least 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the describing composition. In other embodiments, the hydrogen peroxide is present in an amount ranging from about 0.1% to about 80% by weight, such as from about 1.0% to about 75% by weight, or from about 2% to about 10% by weight, based on the weight of the describing composition. In other exemplary embodiments, hydrogen peroxide may be present in the describing composition in an amount ranging from about 2% to about 25%, such as from about 4% to about 20%, from about 6% to about from 15%, or from about 7% to about 10%.
[0087] The cosmetically acceptable carrier of the describing composition may, for example, be present in an amount ranging from about 0.5% to about 99% by weight, such as from about 5% to about 95% by weight , in relation to the total weight of the descriptor composition.
[0088] The pH of the descriptor composition can range from about 1 to about 5, such as from about 2 to about 4, and can be adjusted to the desired value using pH adjusters that are well known in the art in the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibers, including, for example, those described herein.
[0089] The descriptor composition may be in any form, such as, for example, in the form of a powder, gel, liquid, foam, lotion, cream, mousse, and emulsion.
[0090] According to various exemplary embodiments, the descriptor composition can be anhydrous. Optionally, water can be added as an activator, by mixing it with the describing composition.
[0091] The descriptor composition can, in various modalities, comprise additional components such as, for example, at least one auxiliary ingredient chosen from rheology modifying agents, chelating agents, fatty substances, ceramides, alkoxyaminosilicones, and silanes, and any other known component in the art as being useful in a descriptor composition.
[0092] In at least one exemplary embodiment, the bleach composition may be mixed with the descriptor composition to form the color changing composition immediately prior to (e.g., within a few minutes prior to) applying the color changing composition to the hair .
[0093] In an exemplary embodiment, the bleaching composition and the descriptor composition may be combined to form the bleaching composition in a ratio of the bleaching composition to the descriptor composition in the range of from about 1:1 to about 1:5, such as from about 1:1 to about 1:2, or about 1:2 to about 1:4. Coloring compounds
[0094] As described herein, in various exemplary and non-limiting embodiments, color altering compositions may optionally comprise at least one coloring compound chosen from oxidative dyes, direct dyes, pigments, and mixtures thereof.
[0095] Oxidative dyes are, in general, chosen from one or more oxidative bases optionally combined with one or more couplers.
[0096] By way of example, the oxidative bases can be chosen among para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols and heterocyclic bases, and their addition salts.
[0097] Among the para-phenylenediamines that may be mentioned are, for example, para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, 2-chloro-para-2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para- phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, phenylenediamine, N,N-dipropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 4-amino-N,N-diethyl-3-methylaniline, N,N-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)-para -phenylenediamine, 4-N,N-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylaniline, 4-N,N-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-chloroaniline, 2-β-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2 -methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-fluoro-para-phenylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, N-(β-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-hydroxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-3 -methyl-para-phenylenediamine, N-ethyl-N-(β-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-(β,Y-dihydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-(4'-aminophenyl)-para- phenylenediamine, N-phenyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-β-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2-β-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, N-(β-methoxyet il)-para-phenylenediamine, 4-aminophenylpyrrolidine, 2-thienyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-β-hydroxyethylamino-5-aminotoluene and 3-hydroxy-1-(4'-aminophenyl)pyrrolidine, and the addition salts thereof with an acid.
[0098] Among the para-phenylenediamines mentioned above, para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-β-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-β-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6 -dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine and 2-β-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, and the addition salts thereof with an acid, are particularly preferred.
[0099] Among the bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines that may be mentioned are, for example, N,N'-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)-1,3-diaminopropanol, N,N'-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)ethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(β-hydroxyethyl) -N,N'-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4-methylaminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(ethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-amino-3 '-methylphenyl)ethylenediamine and 1,8-bis(2,5-diaminophenoxy)-3,6-dioxaoctane, and the addition salts thereof.
[00100] Among the para-aminophenols that may be mentioned are, for example, para-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 4-amino-3-chlorophenol, 4-amino-3 -hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2-(β-hydroxyethylaminomethyl)phenol and 4- amino-2-fluorophenol, and the addition salts thereof with an acid.
[00101] Among the ortho-aminophenols that may be mentioned are, for example, 2-aminophenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol, 2-amino-6-methylphenol and 5-acetamido-2-aminophenol, and the addition salts of the same.
[00102] Among the heterocyclic bases that may be mentioned are, for example, pyridine derivatives, pyrimidine derivatives and pyrazol derivatives.
Among the pyridine derivatives which may be mentioned are the compounds described, for example, in GB patent no. 1026978 and in GB patent no. 1153196, for example 2,5-diaminopyridine, 2-(4-methoxyphenyl)amino -3-aminopyridine and 3,4-diaminopyridine, and the addition salts thereof.
[00104] Other oxidative pyridine bases may include the oxidative bases 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine or the addition salts thereof described, for example, in FR patent application No. 2801308. Examples that may be mentioned include pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-acetylaminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine-2-carboxylic acid, 2-methoxypyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, (3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-7-yl) methanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)ethanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)ethanol, (3-aminopyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyrid-2-yl)methanol, 3,6-diaminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine, 3,4-diaminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine, pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine -3,7-diamine, 7-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine-3,5-diamine, 5-morpholin-4-ylpyrazole [1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]ethanol, 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[ 1,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)(2-hydroxyeth yl)amino]ethanol, 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-5-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-4-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin- 6-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-7-ol, 2-□-hydroxyethoxy-3-amino-pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine; 2-(4-dimethylpiperazinium-1-yl)-3-amino-pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine; and the addition salts thereof.
[00105] More particularly, the oxidative bases can be selected from 3-aminopyrazolo-[1,5-a]-pyridines and are preferably substituted on the 2nd carbon atom with: (a) a (di)(alkyl) group )(C1-C6)amino in which said alkyl group may be substituted with at least one hydroxyl, amino, imidazolium group; (b) a heterocycloalkyl group containing 5 to 7 chain members and 1 to 3 heteroatoms, potentially cationic, potentially substituted with one or more (C1-C6) alkyls, such as di(C1-C4)alkylpiperazinium; or (c) a (C 1 -C 6 )alkoxy potentially substituted with one or more hydroxy groups such as α-hydroxyalkoxy, and the addition salts thereof.
[00106] Among the pyrimidine derivatives that may be mentioned are the compounds described, for example, in patent nos. DE 2359399; JP 88-169571; JP 05-63124; EP 0770375 or in patent application no. WO 96/15765, as 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2 ,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine and their addition salts and their tautomeric forms, when a tautomeric equilibrium exists.
[00107] Among the pyrazole derivatives that may be mentioned are the compounds described in patent nos. DE 3843892, DE 4133957 and in patent application nos. WO 94/08969, WO 94/08970, FR-A-2 733 749 and DE 19543988, as 4,5-diamino-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, 3,4-diaminopyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-(4'-chlorobenzyl )pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1,3-dimethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-phenylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-methyl-3-phenylpyrazole, 4-amino-1,3 -dimethyl-5-hydrazinopyrazole, 1-benzyl-4,5-diamino-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-tert-butyl-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-tert-butyl-3 -methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyl)-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-(4' - methoxyphenyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-hydroxymethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1-isopyrazole, 4,5 - diamino-3-methyl-1-isopropylpyrazole, 4-amino-5-(2'-aminoethyl)amino-1,3-dimethylpyrazole, 3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 1-methyl-3,4,5-tr iaminopyrazole, 3,5-diamino-1-methyl-4-methylaminopyrazole, 3,5-diamino-4-(β-hydroxyethyl)amino-1-methylpyrazole, and the addition salts thereof. 4,5-Diamino-1-(β-methoxyethyl)pyrazole can also be used.
[00108] A 4,5-diaminopyrazole will preferably be used, and even more preferably 4,5-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and/or a salt thereof.
[00109] The pyrazole derivatives which may also be mentioned include diamino-N,N-dihydropyrazolopyrazolones and especially those described in patent application no. FR-A-288636, as the following compounds and the addition salts thereof: 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-2-amino-3-ethylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-2-amino-3-isopropylamino-6,7- dihydro-1H,5H-2-amino-3-(pyrrolidin-1-yl)-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-4,5-diamino-1,2-dimethyl-1,2- dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-diethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-di-(2-hydroxyethyl)- 1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 2-amino-3-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one , 2-amino-3-dimethylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2,3-diamino-5,6,7,8-tetra -hydro-1H,6H-pyridazino[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 4-amino-1,2-diethyl-5-(pyrrolidin-1-yl)-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3 -one, 4-amino-5-(3-dimethylaminopyrrolidin-1-yl)-1,2-diethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 2,3-diamino-6-hydroxy-6,7 -dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1, 2-a]pyrazol-1-one.
[00110] 2,3-Diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one and/or a salt thereof will preferably be used.
[00111] 4,5-Diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and/or 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1- One and/or a salt thereof will preferably be used as heterocyclic bases.
[00112] The compositions may further optionally comprise one or more couplers advantageously chosen from those conventionally used in dyeing or coloring keratin substrates.
[00113] Among these couplers, mention can be made especially to meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, couplers based on naphthalene and heterocyclic couplers, and also their addition salts.
[00114] Mention may be made, for example, of 2-methyl-5-aminophenol, 5-N-(β-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylphenol, 3-aminophenol, 5-amino-6-chloro-o-cresol (3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol), 1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene, 4-chloro-1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 2,4- diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, 2-amino-4-(β-hydroxyethylamino)-1-methoxybenzene, 1,3-diaminobenzene, 1,3-bis(2,4-diaminophenoxy)propane, 3-ureidoaniline , 3-ureido-1-dimethylaminobenzene, sesamol, 1-β-hydroxyethylamino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene, α-naphthol, 2-methyl-1-naphthol, 6-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxy-N-methylindole , 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, 1-N-(β-hydroxyethyl)amino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene, 2,6-bis(β- hydroxyethylamino)toluene, 6-hydroxyindoline, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 1-H-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 2,6-dimethylpyrazolo[ 1,5-b]-1,2,4-triazole, 2,6-dimethyl[3,2-c]-1,2,4-triazole and 6-methylpyrazolo[1,5-a]benzimidazole , the addition salts thereof with an acid, and mixtures thereof.
[00115] In general, addition salts of oxidative bases and couplers that can be used are chosen from addition salts with an acid such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates.
[00116] The oxidative base(s) may be present in an amount ranging from about 0.001% to 10% by weight, such as from about 0.005% to 5% in weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition comprising the system in which it(s) is(are) present.
[00117] The coupler(s), if present, may be present in an amount in the range of from about 0.001% to 10% by weight, such as about from 0.005% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the system or composition comprising the system in which it(s) is(are) present.
[00118] Compositions according to the modalities of the description may optionally comprise one or more direct natural or synthetic dyes, for example chosen from anionic and non-ionic species, preferably cationic or non-ionic species, either as dyes alone or in addition to the oxidative dye(s).
[00119] Examples of suitable direct dyes which may be mentioned include azoic direct dyes; (poly)methic dyes such as cyanines, hemicyanins and styrils; carbonyl dyes; azine dyes; nitro(hetero)aryl dyes; tri(hetero)arylmethane dyes; porphyrin dyes; phthalocyanine dyes; and natural direct dyes, alone or as mixtures.
[00120] Direct dyes are preferably cationic direct dyes. Mention can be made to the cationic hydrazone dyes of the formulas (Va) and (V'a), the cationic azo dyes (VIa) and (VI'a) and the cationic diazo dyes (VIIa) below:
in whose formulas (Va), (V'a), (VIa), (VI'a) and (VIIa): • Het+ represents a cationic heteroaryl moiety, preferably having an endocyclic cationic charge, such as imidazolium, indole or pyridinium, optionally preferably substituted with one or more (C 1 -C 8 )alkyl groups such as methyl; • Ar+ represents an aryl moiety, such as phenyl or naphthyl, having an exocyclic cationic charge, preferably ammonium, particularly trialkyl(C1-C8)ammonium such as trimethylammonium; • Ar represents an aryl group, especially phenyl, which is optionally substituted, preferably with one or more electron donating groups such as i) optionally substituted (C 1 -C 8 ) alkyl, ii) optionally substituted (C 1 -C 8 ) alkoxy, iii) ( di)(alkyl)amino optionally substituted on the alkyl group(s) with a hydroxyl group, iv) aryl-alkyl(C1-C8)amino, v) N-alkyl(C1-C8)-N-aryl-alkyl optionally substituted (C1-C8)amino or alternatively Ar represents a julolidine group; • Ar' is an optionally substituted divalent (hetero)arylene group such as phenylene, particularly para-phenylene, or naphthalene, which are optionally substituted, preferably with one or more (C1-C8) alkyl, hydroxy or (C1-C8) alkoxy groups ; • Ar'' is an optionally substituted (hetero)aryl group such as phenyl or pyrazolyl, which are optionally substituted, preferably with one or more (C1-C8) alkyl, hydroxyl, (di)(C1-C8) alkylamino groups , (C 1 -C 8 )alkoxy or phenyl; • Ra and Rb, which can be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a (C1-C8) alkyl group, which is optionally substituted, preferably with a hydroxyl group; or alternatively the substituent Ra with a substituent of Het+ and/or Rb with a substituent of Ar and/or Ra with Rb form, together with the atoms having, a (hetero)cycloalkyl; particularly, Ra and Rb represent a hydrogen atom or a (C 1 -C 4 )alkyl group, which is optionally substituted by a hydroxyl group; • An- represents an anionic counterion such as mesylate or halide. In particular, mention can be made of cationic azo dyes and hydrazone having an endocyclic cationic charge of the formulas (Va), (V'a) and (VIa) as defined above. Mention may be made more particularly of those of the formulas (Va), (V'a) and (Via) derived from the dyes described in patent applications Nos. WO 95/15144, WO 95/01772 and EP-714954.
[00121] In various embodiments, the cationic part is derived from the
- R1 represents a (C1-C4) alkyl group such as methyl; - R2 and R3, which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a (C1-C4) alkyl group, such as methyl; and - R4 represents a hydrogen atom or an electron donating group such as optionally substituted (C 1 -C 8 )alkyl, optionally substituted (C 1 -C 8 )alkoxy, or (di)(C 1 -C 8 alkyl)amino optionally substituted on ( s) alkyl group(s) with a hydroxyl group; particularly, R4 is a hydrogen atom, - Z represents a CH group or a nitrogen atom, preferably CH; - An- represents an anionic counterion such as mesylate or halide.
[00122] The colorant of the formulas (Va-1) and (VIa-1) can be chosen from Basic Red 51, Basic Yellow 87 and Basic Orange 31 or derivatives thereof:


[00123] Among the natural direct dyes, mention may be made of lawsone (2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone), juglone, alizarin, glitter, carminic acid, kermesic acid, purpurogaline, protocatechaldehyde, indigo, isatin, curcumin, spinulosin , apigenidin and orceins Extracts or decoctions containing these natural dyes and in particular henna-based extracts or poultices can also be used. When present, the one or more direct dyes more particularly represent from about 0.001% to 10% by weight, such as from about 0.005% to 5% by weight, of the total weight of the system or composition comprising the system in which it (s) is (are) present.
[00124] The color altering composition may also comprise a cosmetically acceptable carrier. The cosmetically acceptable carrier may, for example, be present in the color changing composition in an amount ranging from about 1% to about 40% by weight, such as from about 5% to about 35% by weight, or from about 10% to about 30% by weight of the color change composition.
[00125] Auxiliary ingredients can be added to the color altering composition. Exemplary auxiliary ingredients useful in the color change composition according to various embodiments of the description include, but are not limited to, rheology modifying agents, bleach activators and bleach co-activators, direct dyes, chelators, fatty substances, ceramides, alkoxyaminosilicones, silanes, and lift enhancing agents such as nitrogen-containing compounds and metal catalyst compounds.
[00126] The color altering composition may also contain acidic and alkaline pH adjusters, which are well known in the art in the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibers such as hair. Such pH adjusters include, but are not limited to, sodium metasilicate, silicate compounds, citric acid, ascorbic acid, and carbonate compounds.
[00127] The pH adjusters can, in various embodiments, be present in the color changing composition in an amount effective to provide the color changing composition with a pH of no greater than 7, such as a pH in the range of about 1 to about from about 2 to about 6, or from about 3 to about 5. By way of example, the amount of pH adjuster can be present, in various embodiments, in an amount of at least about 0 .01%, such as at least about 0.1%, at least about 0.2%, or at least about 0.5%.
[00128] The color altering composition can, in at least certain modalities, be in a ready-to-use form.
[00129] The color altering composition can, in various embodiments, be applied to the hair within about 24 hours, such as less than 24 hours or less than 12 hours, after the treatment composition. In at least certain exemplary embodiments, the color altering composition can be applied to the hair within a few hours or a few minutes after the treatment composition. For example, the color changing composition can be applied within about 1 to about 6 hours after the treatment composition, or it can be applied up to about 60 minutes, such as up to about 30 minutes, to about 20 minutes, up to about 10 minutes, to about 5 minutes, to about 2 minutes, or up to about 1 minute after the treatment composition.
[00130] The color changing composition can be left on the hair for a sufficient period of time to achieve the desired change in hair tone. For example, the color changing composition can be left on the hair for up to an hour, such as from about 3 minutes to about 45 minutes, from about 5 minutes to about 30 minutes, or from about 10 minutes to about 20 minutes. In other embodiments, the color altering composition can be left on the hair for a period of up to about 30 minutes, such as from about 1 to about 30 minutes, from about 1 to about 10 minutes, or from about 1 to about 5 minutes. A person skilled in the art, by considering various factors such as the initial and desired hair hue, will be able to determine an adequate amount of time to leave the color altering composition on the hair for the purpose of achieving the desired change in hue of the hair. hair. By way of non-limiting example, various embodiments according to the description can provide a 1 to 4 increase in hair shade height.
[00131] If desired, the color altering composition can optionally be subjected to shampooing and/or rinsed off the hair. FORMAT CHANGING COMPOSITION (STRUCTURING COMPOSITION)
In other embodiments, a composition for structuring the hair or for changing the shape of the hair can be applied to the hair before, after, or simultaneously with the treatment composition. The hair shaping compositions comprise hair structuring agents and can be any hair shaping composition, for example compositions comprising one or more hair straightening, relaxing, and/or structuring agents.
[00133] By way of example, hair structuring agents may optionally be chosen from inorganic hydroxides or organic hydroxides, for example sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, or guanidine hydroxide, or can be chosen from organic amines and other non-hydroxy compounds. In various embodiments, the hair relaxing agents can be chosen from thiol compounds such as cysteine, cysteamine, N-substituted cysteamines, alkyl substituted mercaptoacetamides, dimercaptoadipic acid, thioglycerol, thiolactic acid, thioglycolic acid or salts thereof (for example, a thioglycolate), monothioglycolic acid esters such as diol esters of trioglycolic acid, glyceryl monothioglycolate, thiocholine or its salts, aminothiols, and thiols linked to low molecular weight polymers, sulfites such as sodium hyposulfite, and bisulfites such as ammonium or sodium bisulfite .
[00134] Compositions for changing the shape of hair may optionally comprise at least one surfactant, for example amphoteric/zwitterionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, anionic surfactants, and cationic surfactants. By way of non-limiting example, the at least one surfactant can be present in an amount ranging from about 0.1% to about 5% by weight, such as from about 0.5% to about 3% by weight. , in relation to the total weight of the format change composition.
[00135] Surfactants Amphoteric Exemplary include, for example, lauryl betaine, lauroanfoglicinato, lauroanfopropilsulfonato, lauroanfopropionato, lauroanfocarboxiglicinato, laurilsultano, miristamidopropilbetaína, miristilbetaína, miristoanfoglicinato, miristilpropionato, estearoanfoglicinato, estearoanfopropionato, estearoanfopropilsulfonato, estearilbetaína, cocamidoetilbetaína, cocamidopropyl betaine, cocamidopropyl hidroxissultano, cocamidopropildimetilaminapropionato, cocanfopropionato , and cocoamphopropylsulfonate, and combinations thereof.
Exemplary nonionic surfactants include fatty acid esters and alkoxylated fatty acid esters, particularly ethoxylated, of polyhydric alcohols such as glycerols and sorbitol, for example polyoxyethylene monolaurate, polyoxyethylene monooleate, polyoxyethylene monostearate, sorbitol monolaurate sorbitan trioleate, generally having a degree of ethoxylation from about 20 to about 85; mono- and di-alkanolamides, such as N-acyl-derivatives of mono- and di-ethanolamines, and polyethoxylated mono-alkanolamides such as PEG-14-cocamide; amine oxides such as cocamidopropyldimethylamine oxides, cocobis-2-hydroxyethylamine oxides and lauryldimethylamine oxide; ethoxylated alkanolamides; ethoxylated oils and ethoxylated fats such as ethoxylated lanolins; and ethoxylated alkylphenols, such as nonoxynol, and combinations thereof.
Exemplary anionic surfactants include, alkyl ether carboxylic acids, such as laureth-11-carboxylic acid, the alkali metal, ammonium, or amine salts of alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alpha-olefin sulfonates, dialkylsulfosuccinates, alkylaminoalkylsulfosuccinates, and succinates. each having alkyl or alkenyl groups from about C12 to C18, and combinations thereof. Specific examples include the salts of lauryl sulfates and lauryl ether sulfates, the latter having an average ethoxylation level of 1-3.
[00138] quaternium-26, quaternium-52, quaternium-62, Exemplary cationic surfactants include quaternium-16, quaternium-27, quaternium-53, quaternium-70, quaternium-30, quaternium-56, quaternium-71, quaternium-33 , quaternium-60, quaternium-72, quaternium-43, quaternium-61, quaternium-75, quaternium-76-hydrolyzed collagen, quaternium-77, quaternium-78, quaternium-79-hydrolyzed collagen, hydrolyzed quaternium-79-keratin, quaternium-79-hydrolyzed milk protein, quaternium-79-hydrolyzed silk, quaternium-79-hydrolyzed soy protein, and quaternium-79-hydrolyzed wheat protein, quaternium-80, quaternium-81, quaternium-82, quaternium-83 , quaternion-84, and combinations thereof.
Hair styling compositions may further contain at least one additional ingredient typically found in such compositions. Examples of such ingredients include, but are not limited to, acidic and alkaline pH adjusters, chelating agents, swelling agents, solvents, structuring agents such as waxes and polymers, hydrophobic (lipophilic) and hydrophilic gelling agents or thickeners, skin conditioning agents , sunscreen agents (eg octocrilene, octinoxate, avobenzone), preservatives (eg sodium citrate, phenoxyethanol, parabens and mixtures thereof), cosmetic active agents and dermatological active agents such as hydrolyzed peptides, farnesol , bisabolol, phytantriol, aesthetic agents such as essential oils, fragrances, skin sensory agents, opacifiers, aromatic compounds (eg, clover oil, menthol, camphor, eucalyptus oil, and eugenol), foam enhancing agents, and botanical extracts .
The hair structuring (shape changer) composition may also comprise a cosmetically acceptable carrier. The cosmetically acceptable carrier may, for example, be present in the shape-changer composition in an amount ranging from about 1% to about 40% by weight, such as from about 5% to about 35% by weight, or of about 10% to about 30% by weight of the shape change composition.
[00141] In various embodiments, the hair structuring composition comprises or is used together with at least one neutralizer, for example an oxidizing agent. Useful exemplary oxidizing agents include peroxides, bromates, and perborates, for example, hydrogen peroxide, potassium bromate, sodium bromate, and sodium perborate.
The hair structuring composition can, in various modalities, be applied to the hair within about 24 hours, such as less than 24 hours or less than 12 hours, after the treatment composition. In at least certain exemplary embodiments, the hair structuring composition can be applied to the hair within a few hours or a few minutes after the treatment composition. For example, the hair color builder composition can be applied within about 1 to about 6 hours after the treatment composition, or it can be applied up to about 60 minutes, such as up to about 30 minutes, up to about 20 minutes. , up to about 10 minutes, to about 5 minutes, to about 2 minutes, or up to about 1 minute after the treatment composition.
The hair structuring composition can be left on the hair for a period of time sufficient to achieve the desired change in hair shape. For example, the hair builder composition can be left on the hair for up to an hour, such as from about 3 minutes to about 45 minutes, from about 5 minutes to about 30 minutes, or from about 10 minutes to about 20 minutes. In other embodiments, the hair builder composition can be left on the hair for a period of up to about 30 minutes, such as from about 1 to about 30 minutes, from about 1 to about 10 minutes, or from about 1 to about 5 minutes. A person skilled in the art, by considering various factors such as the initial hair shape and the desired hair shape, will be able to determine an adequate amount of time to leave the shape-altering composition on the hair for the purpose of achieving the change. desired in the shape of the hair.
[00144] If desired, the shape change composition can optionally be subjected to shampooing and/or rinsed off the hair. CONDITIONING COMPOSITION
[00145] After the treatment composition and/or the color changing composition and/or the shape changing composition have been applied to the hair, and optionally subjected to shampooing and/or rinsed off, the hair can be further treated with a conditioning composition comprising monoethanolamine and at least one carboxylic acid. In various exemplary non-limiting embodiments, monoethanolamine can be neutralized by at least one carboxylic acid. As used herein, monoethanolamine which is neutralized by at least one carboxylic acid means that the monoethanolamine is completely neutralized, is substantially completely neutralized, or is partially neutralized. The term "neutralized" means that monoethanolamine is protonated by H+ (proton) from, but not limited to, acidic sources such as the carboxylic acid(s).
[00146] In various embodiments, monoethanolamine may be present in the conditioning composition in an amount of up to about 10%, such as up to about 9%, up to about 8%, up to about 7%, up to about 6%, up to about 5%, up to about 4%, up to about 3%, up to about 2%, up to about 1%, up to about 0.90%, up to about 0.80%, up to about 0 .70%, to about 0.60%, to about 0.50%, based on the weight of the conditioning composition. By way of non-limiting example only, monoethanolamine may be present in an amount in the range of from about 0.1% to about 5%, such as from about 0.2% to about 4%, or from about 0 .5% to about 3% by weight, based on the weight of the conditioning composition. In one embodiment, the monoethanolamine can be present in an amount in the range of about 0.5% to about 1%, in another embodiment, the monoethanolamine can be present in an amount in the range of about 1% to about 2% by weight, based on the weight of the conditioning composition.
The at least one carboxylic acid useful for the conditioning composition can be any organic compound containing at least one acid functional group and at least one carbon atom, such as the carboxylic acids described above for the treatment composition. Exemplary and non-limiting carboxylic acids that can be used include organic compounds that include, for example, one, two, three, or more carboxylic acid (COOH) functional groups and at least one carbon atom.
[00148] In certain exemplary, non-limiting embodiments, the at least one carboxylic acid can be chosen from saturated or unsaturated, substituted or unsubstituted dicarboxylic acids, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof. By way of non-limiting example, the at least one carboxylic acid may be chosen from dicarboxylic acids of the following formula: XO2C-R-CO2X' where: -R is a cyclic or acyclic, saturated or unsaturated, linear hydrocarbon moiety or branched, comprising from 0 to 30 double and/or triple bonds and/or from 0 to 10 rings, and optionally interrupted by 1 to 30 heteroatoms chosen from O, N and S, and optionally substituted with 1 to 30 substituents chosen from one hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl moiety (-OH), an amino moiety (-NH2), an alkyl(C1-C3u)amino moiety, a polyalkyl(C1-C3u)amino moiety, a hydroxyalkyl(C1-C3u)amino moiety, a polyhydroxy(C1-C36)alkylamino moiety, a C6-C30 aryl moiety, and in some embodiments -R may be omitted; and -X and X' independently denote a hydrogen atom, an ammonium ion, an alkali metal ion such as Li, Na, K, or an alkaline earth metal such as Be, Mg, Ca or an ion derived from an organic amine as an alkylamine.
[00149] It is understood that the term cyclic hydrocarbon portion for the purposes of the present application is understood to mean a hydrocarbon portion consisting of one or more rings or comprising one or more rings that are pendant or on the main chain, it being possible for the rings to be saturated or unsaturated and are substituted with one or more C1-C30 alkyl or alkenyl or hydroxyl or amino moieties.
[00150] By way of non-limiting example only, carboxylic acids useful in the conditioning composition may include oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, glutaric acid, citraconic acid, citric acid, maleic acid, glycolic acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, sebacic acid, benzoic acid, and glyoxylic acid monohydrate, and also combinations thereof. In at least one embodiment, the conditioning composition comprises at least one carboxylic acid other than maleic acid. In other embodiments, the conditioning composition is free or substantially free of maleic acid.
[00151] It should be noted, however, that the carboxylic acid chosen for the conditioning composition may be the same or different from the at least one carboxylic acid chosen for the treatment composition. In at least one embodiment, the conditioning composition comprises maleic acid and optionally at least one additional carboxylic acid. In additional embodiments, the conditioning composition comprises at least one carboxylic acid other than maleic acid. In other embodiments, the conditioning composition is free or substantially free of maleic acid.
[00152] The at least one carboxylic acid may be present in the conditioning composition in an amount of up to about 10%, such as up to about 9%, up to about 8%, up to about 7%, up to about 6%, up to about 5%, up to about 4%, up to about 3%, up to about 2%, up to about 1%, or up to about 0.50% by weight, based on the weight of the conditioning composition. By way of non-limiting example only, the a carboxylic acid may be present in an amount in the range of from about 0.50% to about 10%, such as from about 1% to about 8%, from about 2% to about 7%, from about 3% to about 6%, or from about 4% to about 5% by weight, based on the weight of the conditioning composition. In an exemplary embodiment, the carboxylic acid is present in an amount of from about 6% to about 8% by weight, based on the weight of the conditioning composition. It should be understood that when more than one carboxylic acid is present, the total amount of carboxylic acids may be present in these amounts.
The conditioning composition may, in various embodiments, be in the form of an emulsion, and may optionally comprise additional components, for example, surfactants, solvents, and/or conditioning agents, and also other additives.
[00154] By way of non-limiting example, the solvent may be chosen from cosmetically acceptable solvents chosen from water, at least one cosmetically acceptable organic solvent, and mixtures thereof.
[00155] Organic solvents can be volatile or non-volatile compounds. As examples of organic solvents, non-limiting mentions may be made to monoalcohols and polyols such as ethanol, isopropyl alcohol, propyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol, and phenylethanol, or glycols or glycol ethers such as, for example, ethylenic glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers , of propylene glycol or ethers thereof such as, for example, propylene glycol, butyl glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol monomethyl ether, and also diethylene glycol alkyl ethers, for example monomethyl ether or glycol monobutyl ether diethylenic. Other suitable examples of organic solvents are ethylenic glycol, propylene glycol, butylenic glycol, hexylene glycol, propanediol, and glycerin.
[00156] The cosmetically acceptable solvent may comprise an amount in the range of up to about 98%, such as up to about 95%, such as up to about 90%, up to about 85%, up to about 80%, up to about 75 %, up to about 70%, up to about 65%, up to about 60%, up to about 55%, or up to about 50%, by weight, based on the weight of the conditioning composition. For example, the cosmetically acceptable solvent can range from about 80% to about 98% by weight, such as from about 85% to about 95% by weight, based on the weight of the conditioning composition.
Conditioning agents that may be included in the conditioning composition include, but are not limited to, cationic, nonionic, and amphoteric conditioning agents. For example, cationic conditioning agents can be chosen from polyquaternium-10 (also called quaternized polyhydroxyethylcellulose), cetrimonium chloride (also called cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, CTAC), behetrimonium chloride (also known as docosyltrimethylammonium chloride), methosulfate of behetrimonium, steartrimonium chloride, stearalkonium chloride, dicetyldimonium chloride, hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, cocotrimonium methosulfate, olealkonium chloride, steartrimonium chloride, babassuamidopropalkonium chloride, brassicamidopropyldimethylamine chloride, Quaternium-91, Salcare/PQ-37, Quaternium -22, Quaternium-87, Polyquaternium-4, Polyquaternium-6, Polyquaternium-11, Polyquaternium-44, Polyquaternium-67, amodimethicone, laurylbetaine, Polyacrylate-1 Cross-Polymer, Steardimonium-hydroxypropyl-hydrolyzed wheat protein, behenamidopropyl chloride -PG-dimonium, lauryldimonium-hydroxypropyl-hydrolyzed soy protein, aminopropyldim ticone, Quaternium-8, and dilinoleamidopropyldimethylaminedimethicone-PEG-7 phosphate.
[00158] Amphoteric conditioning agents can be chosen from polyquaternium-22, polyquaternium-39, polyquaternium-47, polyquaternium-53, arginine, asparagines, aspartic acid, glycine, glutamic acid, lysine, methionine, phenylalanine, serine, threonine, tyrosine tryptophan, valine, gelatin, Quaternium-27, oleamidopropylbetaine, disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, sodium cocoamphopropionate, sodium cocoamphoacetate, coconidopropylamidobetaine, delta-lactone of meadowforamidopropylamidobetin, cocothenidopropylamidobetin, limidopropylamidobetin, limidopropylamidobetin , hydroxyproline, acetylhydroxyproline, isoleucine, lauroyllysine, lauroylsarcosine, polylysine, proline, rice amino acids, silk amino acids, and wheat amino acids.
[00159] Additional auxiliary components that may be present in the conditioning composition include, but are not limited to, coloring agents, emulsifiers, thickening agents and rheology modifying agents, cationic polymers, wetting and moisturizing agents, chelating agents such as glycine, different emulsifying agents from those belonging to the above-described fatty substances, fillers, structuring agents, propellants, anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, brightening agents, conditioning agents, brightening agents, and reinforcing agents.
[00160] If present, the at least one auxiliary component may be present in an amount of up to about 25%, such as up to about 20%, up to about 15%, up to about 10% by weight, such as about 0 .1% to about 10% by weight, from about 0.5% to about 5%, or from about 1 to about 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the conditioning composition.
The pH of the conditioning composition can range from about 1 to about 7, such as from about 2 to about 5, or from about 3 to about 4.
According to various embodiments, the conditioning composition can include monoethanolamine and a combination of carboxylic acids. By way of non-limiting example, the conditioning composition may include monoethanolamine and a combination of two carboxylic acids, such as malonic acid and citric acid, malonic acid and oxalic acid, malonic acid and maleic acid, malonic acid and malic acid, citric acid and acid oxalic acid, citric acid and maleic acid, citric acid and malic acid, oxalic acid and maleic acid, oxalic acid and malic acid, maleic acid and malic acid, and so on. In other embodiments, the conditioning composition can include monoethanolamine and combinations of three or more carboxylic acids.
In some embodiments, the conditioning composition can include monoethanolamine and one or more saturated carboxylic acids, and can be free or substantially free of unsaturated carboxylic acids. In other embodiments, the conditioning composition can include monoethanolamine and one or more unsaturated carboxylic acids, and can be free or substantially free of saturated carboxylic acids. In still other embodiments, the conditioning composition can include monoethanolamine and both saturated carboxylic acids (e.g., oxalic acid, malonic acid, glutaric acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, glycolic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, sebacic acid, glyoxylic acid monohydrate) or unsaturated carboxylic acids (maleic acid, fumaric acid, benzoic acid, citraconic acid).
In certain exemplary embodiments, the conditioning composition may include up to about 5%, such as up to about 3%, such as from about 0.1% by weight to about 5% by weight of monoethanolamine, from about 0 .5% by weight to about 3% by weight, or from about 0.5% by weight to about 2% by weight of monoethanolamine, such as from about 0.5% by weight to about 1% by weight , based on the weight of the conditioning composition. In certain exemplary embodiments, the conditioning composition can include from about 0.1% by weight to about 5% by weight of carboxylic acids, such as from about 0.5% by weight to about 4% by weight, or from about 0.75% by weight to about 3% by weight, such as from about 1% by weight to about 2% by weight of carboxylic acids, based on the weight of the conditioning composition.
By way of non-limiting example only, the conditioning composition includes from about 0.5% by weight to about 2% by weight monoethanolamine and from about 0.75% by weight to about 3% by weight of one or more carboxylic acids, such as from about 0.5% by weight to about 1% by weight monoethanolamine and from about 1% by weight to about 2% by weight of one or more carboxylic acids, based on weight of the conditioning composition. By way of non-limiting example, the conditioning composition may include from about 5% by weight to about 6% by weight monoethanolamine and from about 1% by weight to about 2% by weight maleic acid, based on the weight of the conditioning composition.
[00166] According to certain embodiments, the total combined amount of monoethanolamine and carboxylic acid present in the conditioning composition can be in the range of up to about 20%, such as from about 0.5% to about 15%, of about 1% to about 15%, from about 1% to about 10%, from about 2% to about 8%, from about 2% to about 5%, or about 3% to about 5 % by weight, based on the weight of the conditioning composition.
[00167] Without intending to limit the description, it may, in various embodiments, be advantageous to choose certain amounts of monoethanolamine, at least one carboxylic acid, solvent, and/or optionally any additional component in the conditioning composition, or component ratios in relationship with one another, for the purpose of providing or improving the synergistic results of their combinations.
[00168] Treatment and/or conditioning compositions, according to the description, may be in various forms, such as in the form of liquids, creams, liquid-gels, liquid-creams, gels, lotions, or pastes. METHODS
[00169] As described herein, treatment and/or conditioning compositions, and/or systems comprising the treatment and conditioning compositions, can be used to treat hair, for example before, during, and/or after a a process for chemically changing the color or shape of hair, prior to, during, or after application of a composition that is not a color or shape altering composition, and/or a stand-alone treatment for damaged hair. For example, a color or shape altering composition can comprise a treatment composition, or the treatment composition can comprise a color or shape altering composition or agent or composition. It should be understood that when "a color altering composition comprises the treatment composition", "a shape altering composition comprises the treatment composition", "the treatment composition comprises a color changing composition", "the treatment composition comprises a format altering composition”, or the like, the two compositions or their components are mixed together, but without any limitation, for example on which composition is added to which composition or the order of mixing.
[00170] In other embodiments, the treatment composition may be applied to the hair first, and optionally shampooed and/or rinsed off, after which a color or shape altering composition, or a composition that is not a color or shape altering composition is applied to the hair. In various embodiments, the conditioning composition can be applied to the hair after the treatment composition and/or the color or shape altering composition is applied to the hair, and optionally shampooed and/or rinsed off.
[00171] As used herein, treatment compositions can be applied to hair "before" chemical hair treatment, such as before structuring (shaping), coloring, or lightening the hair, with or without shampooing. or removal by intermediate rinse, such as less than one minute before, up to about 5 minutes before, up to about 10 minutes before, up to about 20 minutes before, up to about 30 minutes before, up to about 1 hour before, up to about 2 hours before, up to about 6 hours before, up to about 12 hours before, up to about 24 hours before, up to about 48 hours before, up to about 72 hours before, or up to about 1 week before.
[00172] As used herein, the treatment compositions can be applied to hair "after" the chemical treatment of the hair, such as after structuring (shaping), coloring, or lightening the hair, with or without shampooing. or removal by intermediate rinse, for example, less than one minute after, until about 5 minutes after, up to about 10 minutes after, up to about 20 minutes after, up to about 30 minutes after, up to about 1 hour after, up to about 2 hours after, to about 6 hours after, to about 12 hours after, to about 24 hours after, to about 48 hours after, to about 72 hours after, or up to about 1 week after.
[00173] As used herein, the treatment compositions can be applied to hair "during" the chemical treatment of the hair, for example simultaneously with or at approximately the same time as the chemical treatment such as structuring (shaping), coloring or lightening the hair. hair, for example, by combining or mixing the treatment composition with the chemical treatment composition prior to applying the mixture to the hair. By way of example, the treatment compositions may be mixed with a color or shape change composition in an amount in the range of about 30% by weight, relative to the weight of the color change composition, such as up to about 25% , up to about 20%, or up to about 15% by weight, relative to the weight of the color altering composition. For example, the treatment composition can be mixed with a color or shape change composition in an amount ranging from about 1% to about 20%, from about 2% to about 15%, from about 3 % to about 13%, or from about 4% to about 10% by weight, relative to the weight of the color altering composition. In still other exemplary embodiments, the treatment composition and the color or shape altering composition can be applied to the hair at substantially the same time, but from separate applicators without mixing prior to application to the hair, either with or without shampooing. or removal by intermediate rinse.
By way of non-limiting example, a method of treating or changing the shape or color of hair may comprise applying the treatment composition to the hair as a composition for pre-relaxation, permanent pre-curl, pre-smoothing, pre-staining, pre-glazing, or pre-lightening, which can optionally be left on the hair or washed off before applying the color or shape change composition. In another exemplary embodiment, a method may comprise adding the treatment composition to a color or shape altering composition, optionally immediately prior to use, and applying the mixture to the hair. In yet another exemplary embodiment, a method may comprise adding a color or shape altering agent, for example an oxidizing agent or dye, to the treatment composition, optionally immediately prior to use, and applying the treatment composition to the hair.
[00175] In yet another exemplary embodiment, a method may comprise mixing a structuring agent (shape changer) or coloring or bleaching composition and descriptor composition immediately before use, wherein the composition for treatment may be pre-formulated in the composition structuring or coloring or bleaching, or descriptor composition. In yet another exemplary embodiment, a method may comprise applying the conditioning composition to the hair as an after-treatment composition after the hair has been treated and after optionally rinsing or washing the hair.
[00176] The term "mixing" and all variations of this term, as used herein, refers to contacting or combining or reconstituting or dissolving or dispersing or blending with or agitating the composition for treatment with the color or color altering composition. Format. It may also mean introducing the composition for treatment into the color or shape altering composition. It can also mean positioning the composition for treatment within the same vessel or container as the color altering composition.
[00177] As another example, a treatment composition according to the description can be applied to hair after the reducing step of a hair treatment process, for example a relaxer, straightener, or permanent wave. After the optional leave-in (no rinse) (processing) time, for example, of about 5-10 minutes, such as about 10-15 minutes, the hair can optionally be dried with an absorbent material or rinsed, and then the conditioning composition is applied to the hair, and optionally shampooed or rinsed off. Without wishing to be bound by theory, it is believed that the reducing step of the process swells the hair cuticle, making it able to accept the active component(s) of the treatment composition, and the conditioning composition, then , deflates the hair cuticle, sealing the active component(s) in it.
[00178] In still other exemplary embodiments, the treatment composition, the conditioning composition, or systems comprising the treatment composition and the conditioning composition, may be applied to the hair not in conjunction with the color changer or shape changer process or the color-altering or shape-altering composition. Such treatment compositions, conditioning compositions, and/or systems comprising the treatment composition and the conditioning composition may be useful to provide cosmetic advantages such as shine, conditioning, fiber strength, and/or healthy appearance to hair, separate and apart. avoid or minimize hair damage caused by chemical processes such as coloring, discoloring, structuring, relaxing, etc., of the hair.
[00179] By way of non-limiting example only, a treatment composition, according to the description, can be mixed with a composition that does not contain an agent to change the color or shape of the hair, can be applied directly to the hair, for example simultaneously with a composition that does not contain an agent to change the color or shape of the hair, or it can be mixed with water and applied to the hair, and optionally the hair can be shampooed and/or rinsed, after which a The conditioning composition, according to the description, can be applied to the hair, and optionally subjected to shampooing and/or rinsing off.
[00180] In another exemplary modality, the methods refer to processes for hair treatment in which only a portion of the hair is subjected to a chemical process such as a color or shape change process. By way of example, when hair is lightened, only certain portions of the hair on a consumer's head are treated with a bleaching or bleaching agent. However, different portions of hair can be treated (eg, lightened) during subsequent color or shape change processes, thereby causing, over time, more damage to certain portions of the hair. Thus, it may be desirable in such embodiments to treat the entire head of hair with a treatment composition as described. As such, in various embodiments, a treatment composition, in accordance with the description, can be applied to certain portions of the hair together with a process of bleaching or bleaching or dyeing or structuring the hair (e.g., mixed with a bleaching composition or hair lightening or dyeing or structuring), while a treatment composition, according to the description, can be applied to other portions of the hair that have not been subjected to the chemical process, for example in a composition not containing a coloring or structuring agent (shape changer) of the hair. Although some overlapping of the treated portions of hair may occur, various modalities contemplate that the treated hair will essentially consist of different portions of hair.
[00181] Consequently, methods for changing the color or shape of hair are within the scope of the description in which a first treatment composition comprising monoethanolamine; at least one carboxylic acid chosen from oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, glutaric acid, citraconic acid, citric acid, glycolic acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, sebacic acid, benzoic acid, and glyoxylic acid monohydrate, and combinations thereof; at least one solvent; and at least one agent to change the shape or color of the hair is applied to certain portions of the hair; and a second treatment composition comprising monoethanolamine; at least one carboxylic acid chosen from oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, glutaric acid, citraconic acid, citric acid, glycolic acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, sebacic acid, benzoic acid, and glyoxylic acid monohydrate, and combinations thereof; and at least one solvent; wherein the second treatment composition does not contain an agent to change the shape or color of the hair, it is applied to different portions of the hair. The second treatment composition can, for example, be applied directly to the hair, or it can be mixed with water or with a composition such as a clear glaze. Optionally, a conditioning composition according to the description can also be applied to the hair, for example to a portion of the hair, or to the entire treated hair. In various embodiments, it may be possible for the at least one carboxylic acid in the first and second treatment compositions and/or conditioning composition to be the same or different, and the at least one carboxylic acid for each should be understood to be chosen independently.
[00182] In various exemplary methods or processes, the treatment composition or mixture comprising the treatment composition can be applied to the hair, and after an optional leave-in (no rinse) time on the hair fibers, for example, in the range of from about 1 to about 60 minutes, such as from about 5 to about 50 minutes, or as from about 5 to about 30 minutes, or as from about 10 to about 20 minutes, or as of about 20 minutes, the hair fibers can be rinsed, optionally shampooed and rinsed again, the conditioning composition can be applied to the hair fibers, and after an optional second rest time, the hair fibers can optionally be washed with a hair conditioning composition, rinsed again, and then dried. The conditioning composition can be left on the hair for a rest or leave-in (no rinse) period in the range of up to about 60 minutes, such as from about 1 to about 30 minutes, or from about 5 to about 15 minutes. The shampoo and hair conditioning composition can be any conventional shampoo and/or hair conditioner products.
The temperature during hair treatment methods can be, for example, between room temperature and 80°C, such as between room temperature and 60°C, or between room temperature and 40°C.
It has been found that applying the treatment composition, the conditioning composition, or a system comprising the treatment composition and the conditioning composition onto the fibers, together with a process for changing the color and/or shape of the hair, results in "lifting" or satisfactory lightening of the color of the fibers, or alteration of the shape of the hair fibers, while providing strength and/or protection to the hair fiber so as to minimize damage to the hair fiber in at least some modalities . Furthermore, when the composition modalities comprise a coloring compound selected from oxidative dye precursors, direct dyes, pigments or mixtures thereof, the fibers are also colored satisfactorily with respect to the degree of dye deposition and coloring with desirable nuance formation, while that provide strength and/or protection to the hair fiber so as to avoid or minimize damage to the hair fiber in at least some modalities.
[00185] It is to be understood that any degree of protection and/or strength and/or damage minimization may be granted to the hair fiber, without limitation. Furthermore, it is intended that modalities which do not impart fiber strength and/or protection and/or damage minimization to the hair fiber are also within the scope of the description. KITS
[00186] Other modalities of the description refer to kits for treatment and/or changing the color and/or shape of hair. An exemplary embodiment of a kit for treating and/or altering hair color comprises: A. a first compartment containing a treatment composition comprising: i. monoethanolamine; ii. at least one carboxylic acid; and iii. optionally at least one solvent; and B. a second compartment containing a conditioning composition comprising monoethanolamine and at least one carboxylic acid; and C. optionally, one or more additional compartments comprising at least one hair coloring agent or hair coloring composition.
[00187] Other exemplary embodiments of a kit for treating and/or altering hair color comprise: A. a first compartment containing a composition for treatment comprising: i. monoethanolamine; ii. at least one carboxylic acid; and iii. optionally at least one solvent; and B. a second compartment containing a conditioning composition comprising monoethanolamine and at least one carboxylic acid; and C. optionally, one or more additional compartments comprising at least one hair coloring agent or a hair coloring composition, wherein the first compartment and/or the second compartment and/or one or more additional compartments are free or substantially free of maleic acid.
[00188] Other exemplary embodiments of a kit for treating and/or altering hair color comprise: A. a first compartment containing a composition for treatment comprising: i. monoethanolamine; ii. at least one carboxylic acid; and iii. optionally at least one solvent; and B. a second compartment containing a conditioning composition comprising monoethanolamine and at least one carboxylic acid; and C. optionally, one or more additional compartments comprising at least one hair coloring agent or hair coloring composition, the first compartment and/or second compartment comprising at least one acid chosen from malonic acid, maleic acid, citric acid , or mixtures thereof.
[00189] An exemplary embodiment of a kit for treating and/or altering the shape of hair comprises: A. a first compartment containing a composition for treatment comprising: i. monoethanolamine; ii. at least one carboxylic acid; and iii. optionally at least one solvent; and B. a second compartment containing a conditioning composition comprising monoethanolamine and at least one carboxylic acid; and C. optionally, one or more additional compartments comprising at least one agent or composition for structuring (shaping) hair,
[00190] Other exemplary embodiments of a kit for treating and/or altering the shape of hair comprise: A. a first compartment containing a composition for treatment comprising: i. monoethanolamine; ii. at least one carboxylic acid; and iii. optionally at least one solvent; and B. a second compartment containing a conditioning composition comprising monoethanolamine and at least one carboxylic acid; and C. optionally, one or more additional compartments comprising at least one agent or composition for structuring (shaping) hair, wherein the first compartment and/or the second compartment and/or one or more additional compartments are exempt or substantially free of maleic acid.
[00191] Other exemplary embodiments of a kit for treating and/or altering the shape of hair comprise: A. a first compartment containing a composition for treatment comprising: i. monoethanolamine; ii. at least one carboxylic acid; and iii. optionally at least one solvent; and B. a second compartment containing a conditioning composition comprising monoethanolamine and at least one carboxylic acid; and C. optionally, one or more additional compartments comprising at least one agent or composition for structuring (shaping) hair, wherein the first compartment and/or the second compartment and/or one or more additional compartments comprise at least an acid chosen from malonic acid, maleic acid, citric acid, or mixtures thereof.
[00192] According to various modalities, the at least one carboxylic acid present in the hair treatment composition and/or hair conditioning composition of any of the aforementioned kits can be independently chosen from maleic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, glutaric acid, citraconic acid, citric acid, glycolic acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, sebacic acid, benzoic acid, and glyoxylic acid monohydrate, and combinations thereof. In some embodiments, the at least one carboxylic acid in the treatment composition and the conditioning composition in the first compartment and the second compartment of the kit are the same. In other embodiments, the at least one carboxylic acid in the treatment composition and the conditioning composition in the first compartment and the second compartment of the kit are different.
[00193] In some embodiments, the at least one carboxylic acid present in the hair care composition and/or hair conditioning composition in the first compartment and second compartment of the kit are independently chosen from malonic acid, maleic acid, citric acid, and combinations thereof. In other embodiments, the at least one carboxylic acid present in the hair care composition and/or hair conditioning composition in the first compartment and second compartment of the kit are independently chosen from citric acid, malonic acid, oxalic acid, malic acid, glutaric acid, glycolic acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, tartaric acid, sebacic acid, glyoxylic acid monohydrate, and combinations thereof. In still other embodiments, the at least one carboxylic acid is chosen from maleic acid, citraconic acid, fumaric acid, benzoic acid, and combinations thereof. In still other modalities, the carboxylic acid present in the treatment composition, the carboxylic acid present in the conditioning composition in the first compartment and second compartment of the kit, or in both, can be independently chosen from combinations of two carboxylic acids, chosen from malonic acid and citric acid; malonic acid and oxalic acid; malonic acid and maleic acid; malonic acid and malic acid; citric acid and oxalic acid; citric acid and maleic acid; citric acid and malic acid; oxalic acid and maleic acid; oxalic acid and malic acid; maleic acid and malic acid. In still other embodiments, the carboxylic acid present in the treatment composition, the carboxylic acid present in the conditioning composition in the first compartment and second compartment of the kit, or both, can be independently chosen from combinations of three or more carboxylic acids.
[00194] In a non-limiting exemplary modality, the at least one carboxylic acid present in the composition for treatment in any of the aforementioned compositions, systems, methods, and kits is chosen from malonic acid, and the at least one acid The carboxylic acid present in the conditioning composition is chosen from maleic acid. In other exemplary and non-limiting embodiments, the at least one carboxylic acid present in the treatment composition and the at least one carboxylic acid present in the conditioning composition in any of the aforementioned compositions, systems, methods, and kits are chosen from maleic acid.
[00195] It is to be understood that, as used herein, the terms "the", "a", "a" or "an" mean "at least one", and should not be limited to "only one". a)” unless explicitly stated otherwise. Thus, for example, reference to "a portion" includes examples having two or more such portions unless the context clearly indicates otherwise.
[00196] Unless expressly stated otherwise, it is not in any way intended that any method presented herein should be construed as requiring that its steps be performed in a specific order. Consequently, if a method claim does not actually cite an order to be followed by its steps or it is not specifically stated otherwise in the claims or descriptions that the steps are to be limited to a specific order, it is in no way intended that any specific order is inferred.
[00197] Although various features, elements or steps of specific modalities may be described using the transitional phrase "comprising", it is to be understood that alternative modalities, including those that may be described using the transitional phrases "consisting of" or “consisting essentially of”, are implied. Thus, for example, implicit alternative modalities relating to a method comprising A+B+C include modalities in which a method consists of A+B+C and modalities in which a method consists essentially of A+B+C. As described, the phrase "at least one of A, B, and C" is intended to include "at least one A or at least one B or at least one C", and is also intended to include "at least one A and at least one B and at least one C”.
[00198] All ranges and quantities presented herein are intended to include subranges and quantities using any point described as an endpoint. Thus, a range of "1% to 10%, such as 2% to 8%, such as 3% to 5%", is intended to include the ranges from "1% to 8%, from "1% to 5 %”, from “2% to 10%”, and so on. All numbers, quantities, ranges, etc., are intended to be modified by the term “about”, whether expressly or not expressly stated. Similarly, a given range of "about 1% to 10%" is intended to have the term "about" modifying both the 1% endpoint and the 10% endpoint.
[00199] Notwithstanding, the numerical ranges and parameters presenting the broad scope of the description are approximations, unless otherwise indicated the numerical values presented in the specific examples are reported as accurately as possible. Any numerical value, however, inherently contains certain errors necessarily resulting from the standard deviation found in their respective test measurements. The following example serves to illustrate the embodiments of the present description without, however, being of a limiting nature.
[00200] It will be evident to those skilled in the art that various modifications and variations can be made to the system, composition and release methods of the invention without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention. Accordingly, it is intended that the present invention cover the modifications and variations of this invention provided they are within the scope of the appended claims and their equivalents. EXAMPLES
[00201] The amounts of ingredients in the compositions/formulations described below are expressed in % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, unless otherwise indicated. Examples 1-1 to 1-13 Compositions
The following exemplary treatment compositions comprising monoethanolamine (MEA), at least one carboxylic acid, and at least one solvent were prepared. In Table 1, the amounts shown are % by weight based on the weight of the treatment composition. Table 1:

The exemplary treatment compositions of Table 1 can be applied to the hair before or after a color changing composition, or can be mixed with a color changing composition for simultaneous application with the color changing composition.
The following conditioning compositions were prepared by mixing formulations 2b-1 to 2b-11 of Table 2b into the composition of Table 2a. In Tables 2a-2b, the amounts shown are % by weight of the conditioning composition. Table 2a:
Table 2b:

The conditioning compositions prepared by mixing the formulations in Tables 2a and 2b can be applied to the hair after the hair is treated with a treatment composition and/or a color changing composition and/or a shape changing composition as herein. described. Methods
[00206] The following are examples of methods or processes for treating hair in vitro and in vivo. Example-In vitro Discoloration Process
A conventional bleach (30g) and a conventional descriptor (30-60g) were mixed with a treatment composition (8g) (formulation 1-13), the mixture was applied to the hair, and left on the hair for 50 minutes or more to achieve a lift equal to that of hair treated with Standard Bleach for 50 min. Processing was carried out at room temperature. The hair was then rinsed, after which a conditioning composition (0.4g/g of hair) (formulation 2b-2) was applied to the hair and left for a period of 10 minutes at room temperature, and then to the hair. was rinsed. The hair was then shampooed and rinsed, and conditioner was applied to the hair and the hair rinsed. Hair treated in vitro had a remarkable increase in terms of sensory benefits. Example-In vivo Discoloration Process
A conventional bleach (30g) and a conventional descriptor (30-60g) were mixed with a treatment composition (8g) (formulation 1-13), the mixture was applied to the hair, and left on the hair for up to 50 minutes or until the desired lift is reached. Processing was carried out at room temperature. The hair was then rinsed, after which a conditioning composition (15g-30g) (formulation 2b-2) was applied to the hair and allowed to rest for 10 minutes at room temperature, and then the hair was rinsed. The hair was then shampooed and rinsed, and conditioner was applied to the hair and the hair rinsed. Hair treated in vivo had a remarkable increase in terms of sensory benefits. Example-In vivo Shine Bath Process
[00209] A conventional shine bath (Shades EQ, 60g) and a conventional processing solution (60g) were mixed with a treatment composition (4g) (formulation 1-13), the mixture was applied to the hair, and left on. hair for about 20 minutes at room temperature. The hair was then rinsed, after which a conditioning composition (15g-30g) (formulation 2b-2) was applied to the hair and allowed to rest for 10 minutes at room temperature, and then the hair was rinsed. The hair was then shampooed and rinsed, and conditioner was applied to the hair and the hair rinsed. Hair treated in vivo had a remarkable increase in terms of sensory benefits. Example-In vivo Bleaching and Shine Bath Process
A conventional bleach (30g) and a conventional descriptor (30-60g) were mixed with a treatment composition (8g) (formulation 1-13), the mixture was applied to the hair, and left on the hair for approx. 50 minutes or until the desired lift is achieved. This was processed at room temperature. The hair was then rinsed and shampooed. A conventional shine bath (Shades EQ, 60g) and a conventional processing solution (60g) were mixed with a treatment composition (4g) (formulation 1-13), the mixture was applied to the hair, and left on the hair during about 20 minutes at room temperature. The hair was then rinsed, after which a conditioning composition (15g-30g) (formulation 2b-2) was applied to the hair and allowed to rest for 10 minutes at room temperature, and then the hair was rinsed. The hair was then shampooed and rinsed, and conditioner was applied to the hair and the hair rinsed. Hair treated in vivo had a remarkable increase in terms of sensory benefits. Examples of compositions for in vitro treatment
The following exemplary treatment compositions as set forth in Table 3 were prepared and adjusted to pH 3 except where otherwise indicated. In Table 3, the amounts shown are % by weight of the treatment composition, with the remainder of each composition being water. The hair treatment selected was a standard conventional bleach including a bleach composition (30g) and a descriptor (30-60g) was mixed with each treatment composition (8g). The mixture was applied to repeated hair samples under the aforementioned conditions. Hair samples were then washed and evaluated. All examples were conducted to achieve the same level of “lift” (level of whitening). The time has been adjusted accordingly. This allows for a direct comparison of the level of damage done to the hair.
[00212] The evaluations of the hair samples treated with the exemplary compositions were compared with the evaluations of the hair samples treated with a standard bleaching composition, with just acid or amine, or with acid or amine with pH adjusted to about pH 3. Results Cysteic Acid Data
[00213] Since the amount of cysteic acid is an indication of the level of damaged hair, a lower measured concentration indicates that a specific composition provided a protective benefit to the hair fiber. Therefore, the measured concentration of cysteic acid is a marker with respect to the assessment of fiber integrity. A 10% improvement (% relative change) is typically considered to be statistically significant, demonstrating an increase in fiber integrity.
Portions of hair samples (sample collection) were cut and weighed to approximately 20 mg, hydrolyzed under strong acidic conditions for 16 hours at 110°C. After being hydrolyzed, the samples were pH adjusted to approximately 1.7 with a lithium hydroxide solution and analyzed on a Hitachi Model 8900 amino acid analyzer. Amino acid standards obtained from Sigma Aldrich (Ref AAS18) were used to calibrate the instrument and to calculate the amino acid concentration for each of the treatment conditions. The compositions shown in Table 4, below, show the cysteic acid measurements of the compositions in Table 3, which were compared with samples treated with only one standard bleach (bleach and descriptor composition) and with compositions not containing MEA and at least one carboxylic acid. “Miniature” Tensile Tester Data
Hair samples with treatment compositions containing standard bleaching compositions containing MEA were evaluated for tensile strength using a fiber tensile tester instrument available from Dia-Stron, known as MTT ("Miniature Tensile Tester") . For each sample, 50 fibers were tested. From the test, the Young's Modulus (elasticity, MPa) and the breaking strength (force per unit area required to break the fiber, MPa) were determined. The test results are shown below in Table 4. Raw Data Table 3: Cysteic Acid Data

Table 4: MTT data


[00216] Based on the MTT results in Table 4, it is evident that a blend of bleach with the combination of MEA and a carboxylic acid provides a great improvement in modulus of elasticity and tensile strength compared to the bleach alone, and , too, with the other examples in the comparison, for an equivalent “lift” (level of lightening). The combination of MEA and a carboxylic acid therefore provides improved break strength to hair treated with a blend comprising the combination. Resistance and tactile substance
[00217] Hair samples treated with the exemplifying treatment compositions were tested for tactile substance versus hair samples treated with monoethanolamine alone, pH adjusted monoethanolamine with hydrochloric acid to pH about 3, carboxylic acid alone, and acid carboxylic acid adjusted with sodium hydroxide to pH about 3.
[00218] The assessment of strength (hair that is easy to untangle and comb, having an above average bending strength) and tactile substance (smooth surface sensation, when pulled maintains elasticity) was performed visually and by sensation by expert evaluators in wet hair sample, and each sample was rated for each property. The results are shown in Tables 5A-5F and Figs. 1-6, where the increase (positive change) and decrease (negative change) are relative to the Standard Bleach, considered as the baseline (0).

[00219] As can be seen from Tables 5A-5F and Figs. 1-6, the best combinations of tactile substance and strength resulted from compositions including MEA and at least one carboxylic acid. Highlighted Comparisons Comparison 1: Malonic Acid ± MEA
[00220] Comparison 1A: A mixing ratio of 1:1:0.267 between bleach powder, 30V Oxidizer (descriptor) and additive was prepared (eg 30 g bleach powder, 30 g descriptor, 8 g additive). The additive comprised MEA and malonic acid. 10 g of mixture per 1 g of hair of the mixture was applied to dry hair and the hair was rinsed after 45 minutes. A conditioner was applied and removed by rinsing the hair. The hair was then washed with shampoo and conditioner. The hair was then blow-dried. During the evaluation, it was determined that cysteic acid in hair treated with the mixture was reduced by about 16% when compared to hair treated with a Standard Bleach that has the same lift.
[00221] Comparison 1B: A mixing ratio of 1:1:0.267 between bleach powder, 30V Oxidizer (descriptor) and additive was prepared (eg 30 g bleach powder, 30 g descriptor, 8 g additive). The additive comprised MEA and malonic acid. 10 g of mixture per 1 g of hair of the mixture was applied to dry hair and the hair was rinsed after 55 minutes. A conditioner was applied and removed by rinsing the hair. The hair was then washed with shampoo and conditioner. The hair was then blow-dried. Hair fiber integrity was assessed using a “Dia-stron7 Miniature Tensile Tester (MTT)”. The results are shown in Table 6, below: Table 6: MTT data for Malonic Acid + MEA, Comparison 1B

[00222] As shown in Table 6, the modulus of elasticity and tensile strength were higher for hair treated with the blend compared to hair treated with bleach alone.
[00223] Comparison 1C: The application process identical to the process in Comparison 1B was performed three times on a lock of hair. After the third application, hair fiber integrity was assessed using a “Dia-stron7 Miniature Tensile Tester (MTT)”. The results are shown in Table 7, below: Table 7: MTT data for Malonic Acid + MEA, Comparison 1C

[00224] As shown in Table 7, the elastic modulus and tensile strength were higher for hair treated with the blend compared to hair treated with bleach alone.
[00225] 1D Comparison: A mixing ratio of 1:1:0.267 between bleach powder, 40V Oxidizer (descriptor) and additive was prepared (eg 15g bleach powder, 15g descriptor, 4g additive). The additive comprised MEA and malonic acid. 10 g of mixture per 1 g of hair of the mixture was applied to dry hair and the hair was rinsed after 10 minutes. A conditioner was applied and removed by rinsing the hair. The hair was then washed with shampoo and conditioner. The hair was then blow-dried. The process was repeated a total of three times.
[00226] The hair was subjected to 10,000 strokes with a brush. The ruptured fibers were counted and the results are listed in Table 8 below: Table 8: Analysis of ruptured fibers in relation to Malonic Acid +

[00227] As shown in Table 8, the number of broken fibers was higher for hair treated with the bleach alone compared to hair treated with the mixture.
[00228] The results of Comparisons 1A-1D demonstrate that treating hair with a combination of malonic acid and MEA during a bleaching process provides significant reduction in cysteic acid, and also increased breaking strength, relative to hair treated with only the bleaching formulation.
[00229] For Comparisons 2-3, below, the cysteic acid and MTT data are reproduced from the tables above, but not the sensory data. Note that the sensory conclusions are based on the data shown in the tables from the previous raw data section. Comparison 2: Citric Acid ± MEA

[00230] The combination of MEA and citric acid greatly reduced the cysteic acid content when compared to the bleach alone and all other examples in the comparison. Furthermore, based on the data obtained, this combination showed synergistic effects compared to amine and acid alone. Based on the MTT results, this combination of ingredients also showed a great improvement in elastic modulus and tensile strength compared to bleach alone and all the examples in the comparison. The sensory data described above showed that the invention had enormously increased improvement in strength, without harming the tactile substance, when compared to the bleach alone and all other examples in the comparison. Comparison 3: Maleic Acid ± MEA


[00231] The combination of MEA and maleic acid greatly reduced the cysteic acid content more than the amine alone, the pH adjusted monoethanolamine, the pH adjusted maleic acid, or the bleach alone. Based on the MTT results, this combination of ingredients also showed a synergistic improvement in elastic modulus and tensile strength compared to bleach alone and all the examples in the comparison. The above sensory data showed that the combination had remarkable improvement in strength and tactile substance over the bleach alone, and indeed over all other examples.
[00232] Comparisons 1-3, above, together with the rest of the data presented here, confirm that the combination of MEA with at least one carboxylic acid provides synergistic effects to prevent and/or minimize damage to hair, e.g. caused by chemical treatments such as treatments to change color and shape. Examples of conditioning compositions
In accordance with various embodiments described herein, any of the treatment compositions or combinations of MEA and carboxylic acid can be used as a conditioning composition, as a post-treatment conditioning composition. Exemplary embodiments of such conditioning compositions can be found in the Table, below, in which amounts are given in % by weight. Table 7: Conditioning Compositions


[00234] According to the modalities of the description, the systems comprising the treatment compositions and the conditioning compositions, and the methods of using the treatment compositions and the conditioning compositions described herein, for example on the hair that has been subjected, is being subjected to , or will be subjected to a chemical treatment such as a color change treatment or a shape change treatment, can prevent and/or minimize hair damage and can provide healthier hair.
[00235] An exemplary treatment composition and a commercially available composition have been added to traditional bleach formulations. The bleaching composition with the exemplifying treatment composition was left on the exemplifying hair sample for 45 minutes, and the bleaching composition with the comparative treatment composition was left on the comparative hair sample for 60 minutes for the purpose of obtaining grades. equivalents of “lift” in hair color. The hair was then rinsed, and an exemplary or comparative comparative was applied to the respective hair samples. After 5-10 minutes, the hair was shampooed and conditioned using standard shampoo and standard conditioner, then blow dried.
[00236] Dry hair was evaluated and the results indicated that the compositions and methods according to the modalities of the description perform as well as, or better than, commercially available formulations in aspects such as post-treatment ease of combing, straightening , flexibility, light weight hair, and amount of coating, and furthermore, ease of blow drying and ease of dry combing after shampooing and rinsing hair.

权利要求:
Claims (13)
[0001]
1. A method for altering hair color, said method characterized in that it comprises: (a) mixing a hair treatment composition and a color altering composition; wherein the hair treatment composition comprises: monoethanolamine; at least one carboxylic acid chosen from citric acid and salts thereof; at least one solvent chosen from water, cosmetically acceptable organic solvents, and combinations thereof, wherein the pH of the hair treatment composition is from about 2 to about 4; and wherein the color altering composition comprises at least one bleaching agent and optionally at least one coloring compound; (b) apply the mixture to the hair; and (c) applying to the hair a conditioning composition comprising: monoethanolamine; at least one carboxylic acid chosen from maleic acid and salts thereof; and at least one solvent chosen from water, cosmetically acceptable organic solvents, and combinations thereof.
[0002]
2. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that the hair treatment composition additionally comprises at least one coloring compound.
[0003]
A method according to claim 1, characterized in that the hair treatment composition additionally comprises at least one additional carboxylic acid.
[0004]
4. Method according to claim 3, characterized in that the at least one additional carboxylic acid is chosen from oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, glutaric acid, citraconic acid, glycolic acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, acid tartaric acid, fumaric acid, sebacic acid, benzoic acid, glyoxylic acid monohydrate, salts thereof; and combinations thereof.
[0005]
5. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that the color altering composition comprises at least one bleaching agent chosen from peroxides, persulfates, perborates, percarbonates, peracids, bromates, their salts, and mixtures thereof.
[0006]
6. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that the mixing occurs less than one hour before applying the mixture to the hair.
[0007]
7. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that the hair is rinsed before applying the conditioning composition.
[0008]
8. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that the conditioning composition additionally comprises at least one of quaternium-91, copolymer of acrylates, cetrimonium chloride, phenoxyethanol, sorbitan oleate, polyquaternium-37, glycerin, propylene glycol , cetrimonium methosulfate, benzoic acid, cetearyl alcohol, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, mineral oil, behetrimonium methosulfate, and/or hydroxyethylcellulose.
[0009]
The method of claim 1, wherein the monoethanolamine is present in an amount of from about 4% by weight to about 6% by weight, based on the weight of the hair care composition.
[0010]
10. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that the at least one carboxylic acid chosen from citric acid and salts thereof is present in an amount from about 18% by weight to about 22% by weight, with based on the weight of the hair care composition.
[0011]
11. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that the at least one carboxylic acid chosen from maleic acid and salts thereof is present in an amount from about 1% by weight to about 3% by weight, with based on the weight of the conditioning composition.
[0012]
12. The method of claim 1, characterized in that monoethanolamine is present in an amount of about 1% by weight, based on the weight of the conditioning composition.
[0013]
13. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that the at least one carboxylic acid chosen from maleic acid and salts thereof is present in an amount of about 1.9% by weight, based on the weight of the composition conditioner.

类似技术:

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公开号 | 公开日 | 专利标题

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US11083675B2|2021-08-10|Compositions for altering the color of hair

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US11213470B2|2022-01-04|Compositions for treating the hair

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EP3380062B1|2021-07-07|Compositions for treating the hair

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US10993896B2|2021-05-04|Compositions for altering the color of hair

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BR112018010357B1|2021-08-10|HAIR COMPOSITION, HAIR TREATMENT SYSTEM, HAIR TREATMENT AND HAIR COLOR CHANGE METHODS, AND MULTICOMPARTMENT KIT

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JP2018535268A5|2019-02-28|

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JP2010150255A|2010-07-08|Use of heterocyclic disulfide for treatment of keratin fiber in presence of reducing agent, heat and alkalizing agent

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BR112017023380B1|2021-10-13|SYSTEM, COSMETIC COMPOSITION AND METHOD FOR TREATMENT OF KERATIN SUBSTRATES

同族专利:

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公开号 | 公开日

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US11191706B2|2021-12-07|

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EP3380199A4|2019-05-22|

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JP2021120377A|2021-08-19|

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KR20210084681A|2021-07-07|

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CN108495687B|2021-11-09|

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US20170246094A1|2017-08-31|

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BR112018010341A2|2018-12-04|

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US20210315788A1|2021-10-14|

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RU2018114758A|2019-12-26|

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US20190015309A1|2019-01-17|

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CN108495687A|2018-09-04|

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RU2018114758A3|2019-12-26|

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US10058494B2|2018-08-28|

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MX2018005829A|2018-08-01|

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JP2018535232A|2018-11-29|

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WO2017091794A1|2017-06-01|

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JP6873994B2|2021-05-19|

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US11083675B2|2021-08-10|

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KR102273350B1|2021-07-07|

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EP3380199A1|2018-10-03|

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US20200188258A1|2020-06-18|

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KR20180082590A|2018-07-18|

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法律状态:
2019-12-03| B06U| Preliminary requirement: requests with searches performed by other patent offices: procedure suspended [chapter 6.21 patent gazette]|

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2021-06-29| B09A| Decision: intention to grant [chapter 9.1 patent gazette]|

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2021-08-10| B16A| Patent or certificate of addition of invention granted [chapter 16.1 patent gazette]|Free format text: PRAZO DE VALIDADE: 20 (VINTE) ANOS CONTADOS A PARTIR DE 24/11/2016, OBSERVADAS AS CONDICOES LEGAIS. |

优先权:

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申请号 | 申请日 | 专利标题

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US201562259564P| true| 2015-11-24|2015-11-24|

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US62/259,564|2015-11-24|

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PCT/US2016/063724|WO2017091794A1|2015-11-24|2016-11-24|Compositions for treating the hair|

---