cosmetic composition, process, cosmetic kit, device and cosmetic process for makeup and / or care fo

专利摘要:
COSMETIC COMPOSITION, PROCESS, COSMETIC KIT, DEVICE AND COSMETIC PROCESS FOR MAKEUP AND / OR CARE FOR KERATIN MATERIALS, IN PARTICULAR SKIN AND / OR LIPS. The present invention is directed to a cosmetic composition for makeup and / or care for keratin materials, in particular, the skin and / or lips, comprising: at least one aqueous phase in the form of a gel with at least one polymeric hydrophilic gelling agent synthetic; and at least one oily phase in gel form with at least one lipophilic gelling agent chosen from particulate gelling agents, organopolysiloxane elastomers, semicrystalline polymers and dextrin esters, and mixtures thereof. The said phases thus forming a macroscopically homogeneous mixture.
公开号:BR112015020859B1
申请号:R112015020859-2
申请日:2014-02-25
公开日:2020-11-10
发明作者:Elodie VALVERDE；Véronique Ferrari；Guillaume Cassin；Xavier Ray
申请人:L'oreal；
IPC主号:

专利说明:

[0001] The present invention is aimed at proposing to the field of keratin materials for care and makeup, especially the skin and / or lips, and in particular the skin, a new galenical form that is more particularly advantageous in relation to its performance technical and the sensations that it avoids the user during its application, in particular, to the skin.
[0002] The term "keratin materials" especially means the skin, the lips and / or the eyelids, in particular the skin and / or the lips, and preferably the skin.
[0003] Conventionally, a cosmetic composition formulator uses moisturizing systems combining an aqueous phase for cooling and an oil phase for comfort. The strength of these systems is that they also allow a combination, within the same composition, of active cosmetic agents that have different affinities with respect to those two oily and aqueous phases.
[0004] Unfortunately, these hydrating systems do not provide fast and easy production of an infinite range of compositions. Thus, for a given moisturizing system, which often becomes complicated to functionalize the formulation by adding, for example, a sun protection product, certain active agents, pigments, polymers, fragrances or fillers, etc. without impairing the stability, sensory properties and quality of the film deposited on the keratin materials and especially the skin. The formulation, then, needs to be readjusted. It is also difficult to reconcile, within the same composition, opposing technical performance qualities, for example, matte finish (which can make skin dry) and hydration (which can make skin shiny).
[0005] In addition, moisturizing systems do not provide the formulation of all active ingredients or agents that can be considered in the field of care and makeup, or even for the formulation of high contents of certain cosmetic ingredients or active agents. Failure to comply with these incompatibilities has the consequence of destabilizing the hydrating architecture, which then, among other things, undergoes demixing.
[0006] Finally, these moisturizing systems do not provide fast and easy production of an infinite range of textures.
[0007] Furthermore, in the case of making up the skin color, the preferred moisturizing systems are mainly reverse emulsions with respect to a good level of coverage and homogeneous appearance that they offer when compared to direct emulsions. On the other hand, its weak point is a highly oily and sticky sensation and, therefore, a lack of luminosity in relation to the obtained textures.
[0008] Galenic gel / gel formulations partially meet these expectations (Almeida et al., Pharmaceutical Development and Technology, 2008, 13: 487, tables 1 and 2, page 488; WO 99/65455; PI 0405758-9; WO 99/62497; JP 2005-112834 and WO 2008/081 175). Formulations of this type combine a gel-like aqueous phase with a gel-like oil phase. In fact, these gel / gel formulations were essentially proposed as an advantageous alternative to hydrating systems for reasons that make it possible to dispense with the use of surfactants required for the stability and texturing of emulsions. Unfortunately, despite these advantages, the gel / gel formulations described hereby do not necessarily reveal any new or improved technical performance qualities.
[0009] Therefore, it is up to a person skilled in the art to propose homogeneous conditions that are capable of providing an immediate visual result on the skin with a light sensation in the application, this immediate result expected, preferably being good coverage of color imperfections and / or imperfections of relief, without, however, marking them. Therefore, it is necessary to discover new systems to distribute components on the skin such as water, fatty substances and solid particles.
[0010] These new architectures must be totally satisfactory to users with regard to the sensation provided, but they must also be able to provide enhanced cosmetic properties, or must have a high number of technical performance qualities, such as freshness, luminosity, emollience, comfort , coverage of imperfections, color, uniform appearance, whitening, etc., and, on the other hand, it must be free of the known side effects of aqueous and oily phases such as, respectively, an oily sensation, a sticky sensation, a lack sensation sliding or alternatively a dragging sensation in the application.
[0011] The inventors have found that such an objective can be achieved by choosing a specific hydrophilic gelling agent (s) / lipophilic gelling agent (s) for the preparation of a cosmetic composition of the type, such as a bicontinuous, but on the other hand, macroscopically homogeneous system that has a large number of technical performance qualities and, in addition, has optimized effects.
[0012] More precisely, the inventors have found that the choice of a specific hydrophilic gelling agent (s) / lipophilic gelling agent (s) makes it possible to combine in a single composition a significant number of qualities technical performance, with the intensity of each quality of performance, advantageously, not being attenuated by the manifestation of other associated performance qualities, or even being, for certain performance qualities, stimulated.
[0013] Thus, according to one of these aspects, the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for makeup and / or care for keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or lips, comprising: at least one aqueous phase in gel form with at least one synthetic polymeric hydrophilic gelling agent; and at least one oily phase in gel form with at least one lipophilic gelling agent chosen from particulate gelling agents, organopolysiloxane elastomers, semicrystalline polymers and dextrin esters, and mixtures thereof.
[0014] These phases thus forming a macroscopically homogeneous mixture.
[0015] According to a variant embodiment, a composition according to the invention consists of a gel-like aqueous phase with at least one synthetic polymeric hydrophilic gelling agent, and a gel-like oil phase with at least one agent of lipophilic gelling chosen from particulate gelling agents, organopolysiloxane elastomers, semicrystalline polymers and dextrin esters, and mixtures thereof.
[0016] According to a preferred variant, the composition according to the invention also contains at least one dye.
[0017] This dye can be chosen from pigments, and water-soluble or water-soluble dyes, especially as detailed below.
[0018] In particular, dyes are pigments.
[0019] According to an advantageous variant, the dye is carried at least in the oily phase in the form of a gel.
[0020] As stated above, the inventors found that the choice of pairs of particulate hydrophilic gelling agent (s) / lipophilic gelling agent (s) to texture a gel / gel composition makes it possible to enhance significantly certain qualities of technical performance, and to administer with certain adverse effects inherent in the gelling agents under consideration, or even to reconcile with these composition properties, which until then was difficult to coexist. In addition, as it emerges from the examples below, the present invention also makes it possible to optimize some of its expected technical performance qualities.
[0021] For example, a textured aqueous phase according to the invention with an oily gelling agent of the type organopolysiloxane elastomer, which is advantageous for its mattifying properties, makes it possible, when combined with a gel-like aqueous phase with a acrylic polymer, gaining access to a cosmetic composition that is more particularly advantageous for care and makeup for oily and mixed skin as it has matifying properties and a refreshing effect, and for which the drag effect, which is a known side effect of aqueous gelling agents, has been found to be significantly attenuated.
[0022] Similarly, a gel-like oily phase with a wax makes it possible, when combined with a gel-like aqueous phase with an acrylic polymer, to gain access to a cosmetic composition that is more particularly advantageous for skin care and makeup normal, as it has emollient properties and a cooling effect, but for which an oily sensation, which is a known side effect of waxes, is found to be significantly attenuated.
[0023] The inventors also found that a soft focus performance quality of a composition according to the invention comprising oily and aqueous gel-like phase, respectively, with a particulate or polymeric gelling agent with a soft focus proof effect be significantly improved. The gain in soft focus effect proves to be greater than the sum of the respective optical effects of each of the two gel-shaped phases in each of the two compositions. There is clearly synergism.
[0024] In addition, the inventors have discovered that the compositions according to the invention allow to obtain pigmented "self-soothing" formulations that are homogeneous and stable without requiring the presence of a surfactant, in particular, when a non-ionic polyurethane associative polymer is used as a gelling agent for the aqueous phase. In addition, such compositions have a homogeneous deposit upon application. In particular, the use of nonionic associative polymer of the polyurethane type, such as nonionic grease chain polyurethane polyethers, allows the formation of a composition having an elastic and dense texture, which allows to measure the adherence of the composition.
[0025] In addition, due to the associative polyurethane, the compositions thus obtained have the advantage of being “self-soothing”, whose surface regains its smoothness after use. After each use, a smooth and uniform surface reforms the surface of the jar, as if the jar were new, and when the cream is removed on a finger or any other means (sponge or spatula), the mark of this finger or this other means will not remains.
[0026] The compositions according to the invention also prove to be very stable and not subject to syneresis.
[0027] In addition to the mentioned advantages, a gelling system under consideration according to the invention provides a texture that is sufficiently thickened to be compatible with the formulation of a very wide diversity of ingredients or active agents. It combines in a single formulation a large number of active agents or functional ingredients (fillers, pigments, etc.).
[0028] In particular, the compositions according to the invention also prove to be very advantageous for formulating large quantities of particulate materials, such as pigments and fillers, as required in conventional compositions dedicated to makeup.
[0029] It is known that compositions having large amounts of aqueous phase, such as more than 30% by weight, are not always convenient for formulating solid materials in an amount of more than 10%. However, such large amounts of particles are generally necessary to achieve the expected makeup properties as a cover and / or disguise for skin imperfections.
[0030] The compositions according to the invention make it possible to formulate precisely large quantities of solid materials while maintaining the properties expected of a makeup composition, that is, whitening, refreshing and comfort. In addition, the compositions according to the invention maintain the makeup properties, such as good coverage, colored effect and relief masking.
[0031] Finally, the composition is easy to apply to the surface of the target keratin material. This performance is technically characterized remarkably by a good playing time.
[0032] According to another aspect, an objective of the invention is also a process for preparing a cosmetic composition for makeup and / or care for keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or lips, comprising at least one stage for mixing: at least one aqueous gel-like phase with at least one synthetic polymeric hydrophilic gelling agent; and at least one oily phase in gel form with at least one lipophilic gelling agent chosen from particulate gelling agents, organopolysiloxane elastomers, semicrystalline polymers and dextrin esters, and mixtures thereof; under appropriate conditions to obtain a macroscopically homogeneous mixture.
[0033] According to a variant embodiment, this process can advantageously comprise a step for mixing at least three or even more phases in gel form.
[0034] For obvious reasons, the number of aqueous phase in the form of gels and the oil phase in the form of gels to be considered to form a composition according to the invention can vary for each of the two types of phase in addition to two. It is especially conditioned by the number of qualities of technical performance expected.
[0035] For example, this process can use a single aqueous phase in the form of a gel and two oily phases in the form of a gel with different lipophilic gelling agents.
[0036] Conversely, this process can also use a single oily phase in gel form and two aqueous phases in gel form with different hydrophilic gelling agents.
[0037] For example, the phases having the same architecture, that is, aqueous or oily, can be pre-combined to form a pre-mixture, and it is this pre-mixture that is put in contact with the phase or even with the pre-mixing of several phases having the other architecture.
[0038] The corresponding aqueous and oily gels can be prepared separately without heating, without requiring the necessary presence of surfactants in order to achieve the desired architecture. Thus, in addition to the advantages mentioned above, the claimed compositions can be readily prepared at reduced cost.
[0039] Advantageously, the mixing of the phases can be performed at room temperature.
[0040] However, the process of the invention may comprise, if necessary, a step of heating the mixture.
[0041] The process according to the Invention thus offers the formula creator a quick and simple way to gain access to a large number of cosmetic compositions having performance qualities in common, but also performance qualities that are specific to each one of his compositions.
[0042] The present invention also gives the user access to his ability to mix at least two phases of the same architecture with at least one phase of different architecture through the provision of a cosmetic kit for makeup and / or care for keratin materials.
Thus, according to another aspect, the present invention refers to a cosmetic kit for makeup and / or care for keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or lips, comprising, in separate containers, at least at least one aqueous gel-like phase with at least one synthetic polymeric hydrophilic gelling agent; and at least one oily phase in gel form with at least one lipophilic gelling agent chosen from particulate gelling agents, organopolysiloxane elastomers, semicrystalline polymers and dextrin esters, and mixtures thereof, and also instructions for using the extemporaneous mixtures.
[0044] In accordance with yet another aspect, the present invention relates to a device for makeup and / or care for keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or lips, comprising at least: two separate containers containing, respectively, at least one gel-like aqueous phase with at least one synthetic polymeric hydrophilic gelling agent; and at least one oily phase in gel form with at least one lipophilic gelling agent chosen from particulate gelling agents, organopolysiloxane elastomers, semicrystalline polymers and dextrin esters, and mixtures thereof; the separate chamber for mixing said containers, comprising an opening configured to allow the introduction of said phases to be mixed; and a means for delivering a macroscopically homogeneous mixture of the two phases.
[0045] According to an advantageous variant, the kits and devices according to the invention contain at least two, or even more, different phases in gel form for each of the two types of aqueous and oily architecture.
[0046] According to a particular embodiment, the gel-shaped phases representative of the same type of architecture are gel-shaped with a different gelling agent.
[0047] Multi-phase formulations of the "flap" type can thus be developed.
[0048] According to another particular modality, the representative phases in gel form of the same type of architecture are different with respect to their optical properties. For example, the kit or device may propose phases of oily gels textured by the same oily gelling agent, but one containing dyes and the other not. The user thus has the possibility to explore or not to explore the performance quality of makeup in addition to other performance qualities.
[0049] A kit or device according to the invention also allows a user to modify the intensity of the color effect by adjusting the proportion of the colored gel-shaped phase to be mixed.
[0050] Thus, the kits and devices according to the invention are particularly advantageous in that they provide the user with the possibility to adjust at will, through the choice of gel-shaped phases representative of the two types of oily and aqueous architecture , the desired makeup performance qualities, while at the same time ensuring convenience and ease of use.
[0051] The present invention especially makes it possible to provide the user with a wider range of makeup and also to give the makeup operation an attractive, fun aspect. In addition, the fact that the mixture of phases can be performed at room temperature is of obvious interest in terms of convenience and, therefore, gives satisfaction in terms of simplicity of use.
[0052] According to another aspect, an objective of the invention is also a process, especially a cosmetic process, for makeup and / or care for a keratin material, in particular the skin and / or lips, comprising at least a step of applying the composition according to the invention to said keratin material.
[0053] According to another of its aspects, the present invention refers to a process, especially a cosmetic process, for the care and / or makeup of a keratin material, in particular the skin and / or the lips, comprising at least applying said material to a composition, in particular the macroscopically homogeneous composition obtained by extemporaneous mixing, before application or at the time of application to said keratin material, of at least one aqueous phase in the form of a gel with at least one synthetic polymeric hydrophilic gelling, and at least one oily phase in gel form with at least one lipophilic gelling agent chosen from particulate gelling agents, organopolysiloxane elastomers, semicrystalline polymers and dextrin esters, and mixtures thereof. Cosmetic Makeup
[0054] First, it is important to note that a composition according to the invention is different from an emulsion.
[0055] An emulsion generally consists of an oily liquid phase and an aqueous liquid phase. It is a dispersion of droplets from one of the two liquid phases in the other. The size of the droplets forming the dispersed phase of the emulsion is typically around one micrometer (0.1 to 100 pm). In addition, an emulsion requires the presence of a surfactant or a silicone emulsifier to ensure its stability over time.
[0056] In contrast, a composition according to the invention consists of a macroscopically homogeneous mixture of two immiscible phases in the form of a gel. These two phases, both, have a gel-like texture. This texture is especially visually reflected by a consistent creamy appearance.
[0057] The terms "homogeneous mixture macroscopically" means a mixture in which each of the phases in the form of a gel cannot be individualized with a naked eye.
[0058] More precisely, in a composition according to the invention, the aqueous gel-shaped phase and the gel-shaped oil phase interpenetrate and thus form a stable and consistent product. This consistency is achieved by mixing inter-penetrated aqueous and oily gel-shaped macrodomains. These interpenetrated macrodomains are not measurable objects. Thus, under a microscope, the composition according to the invention is very different from an emulsion. It cannot be "characterized" as much as having a "sense", that is, an O / W or W / O sense.
[0059] Thus, a composition according to the invention has a gel-like consistency. In addition, the stability of the composition is long lasting without surfactant. Consequently, a cosmetic composition according to the invention does not require any surfactant or silicone emulsifier to ensure its stability over time.
[0060] It is known from the state of the art to observe an intimate nature of the mixture of oily and aqueous gels in a gel-like composition, for example, by introducing a coloring substance in both oily and aqueous gel phases before forming the gel type composition. On visual inspection, the dye is seen to be dispersed evenly, although the dye is present in only one of the aqueous gel or the oily gel. In fact, if two different dyes of different colors are introduced into the aqueous and oily phases, respectively, before forming the gel-like composition, both colors can be observed evenly dispersed through the gel-like composition. This is in contrast to an emulsion in which if a dye that is either water-soluble or oil-soluble is introduced into the aqueous or oily phases, respectively, before forming an emulsion, only the color of the dye in the external phase will be observed (Remington : The Science and Practice of Pharmacy, 19th Edition (1995) Chapter 21, page 282).
[0061] It is also known to distinguish a gel-like composition from an emulsion to form a "drop test". This test consists of demonstrating the bicontinuous nature of a gel-like composition. In fact, as mentioned above, the consistency of the compositions is achieved by interpenetrating oily and aqueous gel-shaped domains. Therefore, the bicontinuous nature of a gel-like composition can be highlighted by a simple test with solvents, respectively, hydrophilic and hydrophobic. This test consists of depositing, on the one hand, a droplet of a hydrophilic solvent in a first sample of the tested composition, and, on the other hand, a droplet of a hydrophobic solvent in a second sample of the same tested composition, and analyzing the behavior of both droplets of solvents. In the case of an O / W emulsion, a droplet of hydrophilic solvent diffuses into the sample and the droplet of hydrophobic solvent remains on the sample surface. In the case of a W / O emulsion, the hydrophilic solvent droplet remains on the sample surface and the hydrophobic solvent droplet diffuses through the sample. Finally, in the case of a gel type composition (bicontinuous system), the hydrophilic and hydrophobic droplets diffuse throughout the sample.
[0062] In particular, in the case of the present invention, the test that will be privileged to distinguish a gel-like composition from an emulsion consists of a dilution test. In fact, in a gel-like composition, the aqueous gel-like domain and the oily gel domains interpenetrate and form a stable and consistent product, whose dilution behavior in water and oil is different from that of the emulsion. Therefore, the dilution behavior of a gel-like composition (bicontinuous system) can be compared to emulsions.
[0063] More specifically, the dilution test consists of placing 40g of product plus 160g of dilution solvent (water or oil) in a 30 ml plastic beaker. The dilution is performed under controlled agitation to avoid any phenomenon of emulsification. In particular, it is made using a planetary mixer: Speed Mixer TM DAC400FVZ. The Speed Mixer is set at 1500 rpm for 4 minutes. Finally, the observation of the resulting sample is made with a light microscope at a magnification of x100 (x10x10). It can be noted that oils like Parleam® and Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 5CS® from Dow Corning are convenient as dilution solvents.
[0064] In the case of a gel type composition (bicontinuous system), when diluted either in oil or in water, a heterogeneous aspect is always observed. When a gel-type composition (bicontinuous system) is diluted with water, one will observe clusters of suspended oily gel and when a gel-type composition (bicontinuous system) is diluted with oil, one will observe clusters of aqueous suspension gel.
[0065] On the contrary, upon dilution, emulsions exhibit a different behavior. An O / W emulsion when diluted with an aqueous solvent will gradually taper without showing a heterogeneous appearance and with clusters. This same O / W emulsion when diluted with oil will present a heterogeneous appearance (clusters of O / W emulsion suspended in oil). A W / O emulsion when diluted with an aqueous solvent will appear heterogeneous (clusters of W / O emulsion are suspended in water). This same W / O emulsion when diluted with oil will gradually taper without presenting a heterogeneous aspect and with groupings.
[0066] In general, the gel phase in aqueous form and Gel phase in oil form forming a composition according to the invention are present in a weight ratio ranging from 95/5 to 5/95. More preferably, the aqueous phase and the oil phase are present in a weight ratio ranging from 30/70 to 80/20.
[0067] The ratio between the two phases in gel form is adjusted according to the desired cosmetic properties.
[0068] Thus, in the case of a composition intended for makeup, the skin and especially the face, it is advantageous to favor an aqueous phase / oily phase weight ratio greater than 1, especially ranging from 60/40 to 90/10 , preferably ranging from 60/40 to 80/20, preferably from 60/40 to 70/30 and more preferably favoring a weight ratio of aqueous phase / oil phase of 60/40 or 70/30.
[0069] These preferred reasons are particularly advantageous for obtaining refreshing and light compositions.
[0070] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention is in the form of a creamy gel with minimal forward stress that does not flow unless subjected to external mechanical stress.
[0071] As it appears from the text below, the composition according to the invention can have a minimum threshold stress of 1.5 Pa and in particular greater than 10 Pa.
[0072] Advantageously, it also has a G * stiffness module at least equal to 400 Pa and preferably greater than 1000 Pa.
[0073] According to an advantageous variant, the gel-shaped phases under consideration to form a composition according to the invention have, respectively, a threshold stress greater than 1.5 Pa and preferably greater than 10 Pa .
[0074] Characterization of threshold stress is performed by oscillating rheology measures. A method is proposed in the examples section of this text.
[0075] In general, the corresponding measurements are taken at 25 ° C using a Haake RS600 imposed stress rheometer equipped with a plate-to-plate measuring body (60 mm in diameter) installed with an anti-evaporation device (glass hood). For each measurement, the sample is gently placed in position and measurements start 5 minutes after placing the sample in the air gap (2 mm). The composition is then subjected to a stress ramp from 10-2 to 103 Pa at a frequency adjusted to 1 Hz.
[0076] The composition according to the invention can also have a certain elasticity. This elasticity can be characterized by a G * stiffness module which, under this minimum stress threshold, can be at least 400 Pa and preferably greater than 1000 Pa. The G * value of a composition can be obtained by submitting it to composition under consideration at a stress ramp from 10-2 to 103 Pa at a frequency defined at 1 Hz. Hydrophilic gelling agent
[0077] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "hydrophilic gelling agent" means a compound that is capable of gelling the aqueous phase of the compositions according to the invention.
[0078] The gelling agent is hydrophilic and is thus present in the aqueous phase of the composition.
[0079] The gelling agent can be soluble in water or dispersible in water.
[0080] As mentioned above, the aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention is in gel form with at least one hydrophilic gelling agent chosen from synthetic polymeric gelling agents.
[0081] For the purposes of the invention, the term "synthetic" means that the polymer is not so naturally existing nor is it a derivative of a naturally occurring polymer.
The synthetic polymeric hydrophilic gelling agent under consideration according to the invention may or may not be particulate.
[0083] For the purposes of the invention, the term "particulate" means that the polymer is in the form of particles, preferably spherical particles.
[0084] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises a polymeric hydrophilic gelling agent chosen from cross-linked acrylic copolymers or homopolymers; associative polymers, in particular associative polymers of the polyurethane type; cross-linked and / or neutralized polyacrylamides and copolymers and polymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid; modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, and mixtures thereof, especially as defined below. A. Particulate synthetic polymeric gelling agents
[0085] They are preferably chosen from cross-linked polymers.
[0086] They can be especially cross-linked acrylic copolymers or homopolymers, which are preferably neutralized or partially neutralized, and which are in particulate form.
[0087] According to one embodiment, the particulate gelling agent according to the present invention is chosen from cross-linked sodium polyacrylates. Preferably, it has in its dry or non-hydrated state a main size less than or equal to 100 pm and preferably less than or equal to 50 pm. The main particle size corresponds to the average mass diameter (D50) measured by laser particle size analysis or another equivalent method known to those skilled in the art.
[0088] Thus, preferably, the particulate gelling agent according to the present invention is chosen from cross-linked sodium polyacrylate, preferably in the form of particles with a main size (or main diameter) of less than or equal to 100 microns, more preferably in the form of spherical particles.
[0089] As examples of cross-linked sodium polyacrylate, mention may be made of those sold under the brands Octacare X100, X110 and RM100 by the company Avecia, those sold under the names Flocare GB300 and Flosorb 500 by the company SNF, those sold under the names Luquasorb 1003, Luquasorb 1010, Luquasorb 1280 and Luquasorb 1110 by BASF, those sold under the names Água Lock G400 and G430 (name according to INCI (International Nomenclature for Cosmetic Ingredients) ', sodium acrylate / acrylamide copolymer by the company Grain Processing.
[0090] Mention may also be made of cross-linked polyacrylate microspheres, for example, those sold under the name Aquakeep® 10 SH NF by the company Sumitomo Seika.
[0091] Such gelling agents can be used in a proportion from 0.1% to 5% by weight of solids in relation to the total weight of the aqueous phase, especially from 0.5% to 2% by weight and in particular in a proportion of from about 0.8% to 1.7% by weight, in relation to the total weight of the aqueous phase. B. Non-particulate synthetic polymeric gelling agents
[0092] This family of gelling agents can be detailed under the following subfamilies: 1. Associative polymers, 2. Cross-linked and / or neutralized 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid copolymers and polymers, and 3. Modified or carboxyvinyl polymers not modified. B.1 Associative polymers
[0093] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "associative polymer" means any amphiphilic polymer comprising in its structure at least one grease chain and at least one hydrophilic portion. The associative polymers according to the present invention can be anionic, cationic, non-ionic or amphoteric. Associative anionic polymers
[0094] Among the associative anionic polymers that can be mentioned are those comprising at least one hydrophilic unit, and at least one unit of grease chain allyl ether, more particularly those whose hydrophilic unit is formed by an unsaturated ethylenic anomer monomer, advantageously by a vinyl carboxylic acid and more particularly by an acrylic acid or a methacrylic acid or mixtures thereof, and whose grease chain allyl ether unit corresponds to the monomer of formula (I) below: CH2 = C (R ') CH2 O Bn R ( I)
[0095] where R 'denotes H or CH3, B denotes 0 ethyleneoxy radical, n is zero or denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 100, R denotes a hydrocarbon-based radical chosen from alkyl, arylalkyl radicals , aryl, alkylaryl and cycloalkyl, comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24 and even more particularly from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.
[0096] Anionic amphiphilic polymers of this type are described and prepared, according to an emulsion polymerization process, in patent EP 0 216 479.
[0097] Among the associative anionic polymers that may also be mentioned are maleic anhydride / Cso-Css a-olefin / alkyl maleate terpolymers, such as the product (maleic anhydride / C3o-C38 a-olefin / isopropyl maleate copolymer) sold under the name Performa V 1608 by the company Newphase Technologies.
[0098] Among associative anionic polymers, it is possible, according to a preferred modality, to use copolymers comprising, among their monomers, an α, β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and an ester of an α, β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and an unsaturated oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol.
[0099] Preferably, these compounds also comprise as an monomer an ester of α, β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and a C1-C4 alcohol.
[00100] Examples of compounds of this type that may be mentioned include Aculyn 22® sold by Rohm & Haas, which is a methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / stearyl oxyalkylenated methacrylate (comprising 20 OE units) or Aculyn 28 (methacrylic acid terpolymer) / ethyl acrylate / benzyl oxyethylenated methacrylate (25 OE)).
[00101] Examples of associative anionic polymers that can also be mentioned include anionic polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit of the unsaturated olefinic carboxylic acid type, and at least one hydrophobic unit exclusively of the type such as an alkyl ester (C10-C30) of a unsaturated carboxylic acid. Examples that can be mentioned include the anionic polymers described and prepared in accordance with US-3 915 921 and 4 509 949.
[00102] Associative anionic polymers that can also be mentioned include anionic terpolymers.
[00103] The anionic terpolymer used according to the invention is a linear or branched and / or cross-linked terpolymer, of at least one monomer (1) supporting an acid function in free form, which is partially or totally salified with a non-monomer ionic (2) chosen from N, N-dimethylacrylamide and hydroxyethyl 2-acrylate and at least one polyoxyethylene alkyl acrylate monomer (3) of formula (I) below:
where R1 represents a hydrogen atom, R represents a straight or branched C2-C8 alkyl radical and n represents a number ranging from 1 to 10.
[00104] The term "branched polymer" denotes a non-linear polymer that supports side chains in order to obtain, when this polymer is dissolved in water, a high degree of entanglement leading to very high viscosities, in a low speed gradient.
[00105] The term "crosslinked polymer" denotes a non-linear polymer that is in the form of a three-dimensional network that is insoluble in water, but swellable in water, leading to the production of a chemical gel.
[00106] The acid function of the monomer (1) is especially a sulfonic acid or phosphonic acid function, said functions being in the free or partially salified or fully salified form.
[00107] The monomer (1) can be chosen from styrenesulfonic acid, ethylsulfonic acid and 2-methyl-2 - [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amine] -1-propanesulfonic (also known as acryloyldimethyl taurate ), free or partially or totally salified. It is present in the anionic terpolymer preferably in molar proportions of between 5 mol% and 95 mol% and more particularly between 10 mol% and 90 mol%. The monomer (1) will be more particularly 2-methyl-2 - [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amine] -1-propanesulfonic acid in free or partially or fully salified form.
[00108] The acid function in partially or fully salified form will preferably be an alkali metal salt such as a potassium or sodium salt, an ammonia salt, an amino alcohol salt such as a monoethanolamine salt, or a salt of amine acid such as a lysine salt.
[00109] The monomer (2) is preferably present in the anionic terpolymer in molar ratios of between 4.9 mol% and 90 mol%, more particularly between 9.5 mol% and 85 mol% and even more particularly between 19.5 mol% and 75 mol%.
[00110] In formula (I), examples of linear C 1 -C 6 alkyl radicals that can be mentioned include octyl, decyl, undecyl, tridecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl and hexadecyl.
[00111] In formula (I), examples of branched Cs-Cw alkyl radicals that can be mentioned include 2-ethylhexyl, 2-propylheptyl, 2-butyloctyl, 2-pentylnonyl, 2-hexyldecyl, 4-methylpentyl, 5-methylhexyl, 6-methylheptyl, 15-methylpentadecyl, 16-methylheptadecyl and 2-hexyloctyl.
[00112] According to a particular form of the invention, in formula (I), R denotes a C12-C16 alkyl radical.
[00113] According to a particular form of the invention, in formula (I), n varies from 3 to 5.
[00114] Tetraethoxylated lauryl acrylate will be more particularly used as a monomer of formula (I).
[00115] The monomer (3) of formula (I) is preferably present in the anionic terpolymer in molar ratios of between 0.1 mol% and 10 mol% and more particularly between 0.5 mol% and 5 mol% .
[00116] According to a particular mode of the invention, the anionic terpolymer is cross-linked and / or branched with a diethylene or polyethylene compound in the proportion expressed in relation to the total amount of monomers used, from 0.005 mol% to 1% in mol, preferably from 0.01 mol% to 0.5 mol% and more particularly from 0.01 mol% to 0.25 mol%.
[00117] The crosslinking agent and / or branching agent is preferably chosen from ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, diallyloxyacetic acid or a salt thereof, such as sodium diallyloxyacetate, tetraalkyloxyethane, ethylene glycol diacrylate, diallylamide, trialylamine, triacrylate trimethylolpropane and methylenebis (acrylamide), or mixtures thereof.
[00118] The anionic terpolymer may contain additives such as complexing agents, transfer agents or chain limiting agents.
[00119] Use will be made more particularly of an anionic terpolymer of 2-methyl-2 - [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amine] -1-propanesulfonic acid and partially or totally salified form of the ammonia salt, N, N - dimethylacrylamide and tetraethoxylated laurel crosslinked carylate with trimethylolpropane triacrylate, named according to the INCI Polyacrylate Crospolymer-6, such as the product sold under the brand Sepimax Zen® by the company SEPPIC. Cationic associative polymers
[00120] Cationic associative polymers that can be mentioned include polyacrylates supporting amine side groups.
[00121] Polyacrylates bearing quaternized or non-quaternized amine side groups contain, for example, hydrophobic groups of the type such as stearide-20 (polyoxyethylene stearyl alcohol (20)).
[00122] Examples of polyacrylates supporting amine side chains that can be mentioned are polymers 8781-121B or 9492-103 from the company National Starch. Nonionic associative polymers
[00123] Nonionic associative polymers can be chosen from: vinylpyrrolidone copolymers and grease chain hydrophobic monomers; copolymers of C 1 -C 6 alkyl methacrylates or acrylates and amphiphilic monomers comprising at least one grease chain; copolymers of hydrophilic methacrylates or acrylates and hydrophobic monomers comprising at least one grease chain, for example, the polyethylene glycol methacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer; associative polyurethanes.
[00124] Associative polyurethanes are non-ionic block copolymers comprising in the chain both hydrophilic blocks, usually of a polyoxyethylene nature (polyurethanes may also be referred to as polyurethane polyethers), and hydrophobic blocks that can be alone and / or cycloaliphatic aliphatic sequences and / or aromatic sequences.
[00125] In particular, these polymers comprise at least two hydrophilic based lipophilic chains containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic block, the hydrocarbon based chains possibly being pendant chains or chains at the end of the hydrophilic block. In particular, it is possible for one or more pending chains to be provided. In addition, the polymer may comprise a hydrocarbon based chain at one end or at both ends of a hydrophilic block.
[00126] Associative polyurethanes can be polymers in the form of a block, in triblocks or multiple blocks. The hydrophobic blocks can thus be at each end of the chain (for example: triblock copolymer containing a hydrophilic central block) or distributed at both ends and in the chain (for example: multiple block copolymer). These polymers can also be assembly polymers of star polymers. Preferably, the associative polyurethanes are copolymers of triblocks in which the hydrophilic block is a polyoxyethylene chain comprising from 50 to 1000 oxyethylene groups. In general, associative polyurethanes comprise a urethane bond between the hydrophilic blocks, hence the name.
[00127] According to the preferred embodiment, a nonionic associative polymer of the polyurethane type is used as a gelling agent.
[00128] As examples of nonionic grease chain polyurethane polyethers that can be used in the invention, it is also possible to use Rheolate® FX 1100 (copolymer Steareth-100 / PEG 136 / HDI (hexamethyl diisocyanate)), Rheolate® 205® containing a urea function, sold by Elementis, or Rheolate® 208, 204 or 212, and also Acrysol® RM 184 or Acrysol® RM 2020.
[00129] Mention can also be made of the Elfacos® T210 product containing a C12-C14 alkyl chain, and the Elfacos® T212 product containing a C16-18 alkyl chain (PPG-14 Palmeth-60 Hexyl Dicarbamate), from Akzo.
[00130] The Rohm & Haas DW 1206B® product containing a C20 alkyl chain and a urethane bond, sold in a solid 20% water content, can also be used.
[00131] It is also possible to use solutions or dispersions of these polymers, particularly in water or in an aqueous alcoholic medium. Examples of such polymers that can be mentioned are Rheolate® 255, Rheolate® 278 and Rheolate® 244 sold by Elementis. The DW 1206F and DW 1206J products sold by Rohm & Haas can also be used.
[00132] The associative polyurethanes that can be used according to the invention are in particular those described in the article by G. Fonnum, J. Bakke and Fk. Hansen - Colloid Polym. Sci., 271,380-389 (1993).
[00133] Even more particularly, according to the invention, use can also be made of an associative polyurethane which can be obtained by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 150 to 180 mol ethylene oxide, (ii) stearyl alcohol or decyl alcohol, and (iii) at least one diisocyanate.
[00134] Such polyurethane polyethers are sold specially by the company Rohm & Haas under the names Aculyn® 46 and Aculyn® 44; Aculyn 46® is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol containing 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, stearyl alcohol and methylenebis (4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI), in 15% by weight in a maltodextrin matrix (4%) and water (81%), and Aculyn® 44 is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol containing 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, decyl alcohol and methylenebis (4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI), in 35% by weight in one mixture of propylene glycol (39%) and water (26%).
[00135] Use can also be made of solutions or dispersions of these polymers, especially in water or in an aqueous alcoholic medium. Examples of such polymers that can be mentioned include SER AD FX1010, SER AD FX1035 and SER AD 1070 from Elementis, and Rheolate® 255, Rheolate® 278 and Rheolate® 244 sold by Elementis. use can also be made of Aculyn® 44, Aculyn® 46, DW 1206F and DW 1206J, and also Acrysol® RM 184 from Rohm & Haas, or alternatively Borchi Gel LW44 from Borchers, and mixtures thereof. Amphoteric associative polymers
[00136] Among the associative amphoteric polymers of the invention, mention can be made of cross-linked or non-cross-linked, branched or unbranched amphoteric polymers, which can be obtained by copolymerizing at least one monomer of formula (IVa) or (IVb):
wherein R4 and R5, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical;
[00137] R6, R7 and R8, which can be identical or different, represent a branched or linear alkyl radical containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms;
[00138] Z represents an NH group or an oxygen atom;
[00139] n is an integer from 2 to 5;
[00140] A- is an anion from a mineral or organic acid, methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide;
[00141] 2) of at least one monomer of formula (V):

[00142] wherein R9 and R10, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical;
[00143] Zi represents an OH group or an NHC (CH3) 2CH2SO3H group;
[00144] 3) of at least one monomer of formula (VI):
where R9 and R10, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical, X denotes an oxygen or nitrogen atom and R11 denotes a branched or linear alkyl radical containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms ;
[00145] 4) optionally at least one crosslinking or branching agent; at least one of the monomers of formula (IVa), (IVb) or (VI) comprising at least one grease chain containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and said compounds of the monomers of formulas (IVa), (IVb), ( V) and (VI) possibly being quaternized, for example, with a C1-C4 alkyl halide or a C1-C4 dialkyl sulfate.
[00146] The monomers of formulas (IVa) and (IVb) of the present invention are preferably chosen from the group formed by: dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, dimethylaminoethyl acrylate; diethylaminoethyl methacrylate, diethylaminoethyl acrylate; dimethylaminopropyl methacrylate, dimethylaminopropyl acrylate; dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide or dimethylaminopropylacrylamide, optionally quaternized, for example, with a C1-C4 alkyl halide or a C1-C4 dialkyl sulfate.
[00147] More particularly, the monomer of formula (IVa) is chosen from acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride and methacrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride.
[00148] The compounds of formula (V) of the present invention are preferably chosen from the group formed by acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, 2-methylcrotonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2methylpropanesulfonic acid and 2-methacrylamido-2- methylpropanesulfonic. More particularly, the monomer of formula (V) is acrylic acid.
[00149] The monomers of formula (VI) of the present invention are preferably chosen from the group formed by C12-C22 and more particularly C16-C18 alkyl methacrylates or acrylates.
[00150] The crosslinking or branching agent is preferably chosen from N, N'-methylenebisacrylamide, trialylmethylammonium chloride, allyl methacrylate, n-methylolacrylamide, polyethylene glycol dimethacrylates, ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, dimethacrylate, dimethacrylate, dimethacrylate, dimethacrylate , 6-hexanediol and alii sucrose.
[00151] The polymers according to the invention can also contain other monomers such as nonionic monomers and in particular C1-C4 alkyl methacrylates or acrylates.
[00152] The ratio of the number of cationic charges / anionic charges in these amphoteric polymers is preferably equal to about 1.
[00153] The average weight molecular weights of the associative amphoteric polymers have a weight average molecular weight greater than 500, preferably between 10,000 and 10,000,000 and even more preferably between 100,000 and 8,000,000.
[00154] Preferably, the associative amphoteric polymers of the invention contain from 1 mol% to 99 mol%, more preferably from 20 mol% to 95 mol% and even more preferably from 25 mol% to 75 mol% of compound (s) of formula (IVa) or (IVb). They also preferably contain from 1 mol% to 80 mol%, more preferably from 5 mol% to 80 mol% and even more preferably from 25 mol% to 75 mol% of compound ( s) of formula (V). The content of compound (s) of formula (VI) is preferably between 0.1 mol% and 70 mol%, more preferably between 1 mol% and 50 mol% and even more preferably between 1 mol% and 10 mol mol% The crosslinking or branching agent, when present, is preferably between 0.0001 mol% and 1 mol% and even more preferably between 0.0001 mol% and 0.1 mol%.
[00155] Preferably, the molar ratio between the compound (s) of formula (IVa) or (IVb) and the compound (s) of formula (V) varies from 20/80 to 95 / 5 and more preferably from 25/75 to 75/25.
The associative amphoteric polymers according to the invention are described, for example, in patent application WO 98/44012.
[00157] Amphoteric polymers which are particularly preferred according to the invention are chosen from copolymers of acrylic acid / acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride / stearyl methacrylate.
[00158] According to a preferred embodiment, the associative polymer is chosen from nonionic associative polymers and more particularly from associative polyurethanes, such as Steareth-100 / PEG-136 / HDI copolymer sold under the name Rheolate FX 1100 by Elementis.
[00159] As an associative polymer it is advantageously used in a proportion from 0.1% to 8% by weight of solids and preferably about 3% by weight, in relation to the total weight of the aqueous phase. B.2 Cross-linked and / or neutralized polyacrylamides and copolymers and polymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid
[00160] The polymers used which are suitable as an aqueous gelling agent for the invention can be cross-linked or non-cross-linked copolymers or homopolymers comprising at least 2-acrylamidomethylpropane sulfonic acid monomer (AMPS®), in a partially or totally neutralized form with a mineral base other than an aqueous ammonia, such as sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide.
[00161] They are preferably totally or almost totally neutralized, that is, at least 90% neutralized.
[00162] These AMPS® polymers according to the invention can be cross-linked or non-cross-linked.
[00163] When polymers are cross-linked, cross-linking agents can be chosen from the polyolefinically unsaturated compounds commonly used for cross-linking polymers obtained by radical polymerization.
[00164] Examples of cross-linking agents that may be mentioned include divinylbenzene, diallyl ether, diallyl dipropylene glycol ether, diallyl polyglycol ethers, divinyl ether triethylene glycol, diallyl hydroquinone ether, ethylene glycol or tetraethylene glycol di (meth) acrylate, trimethyl triacrylate methylenebisacrylamide, methylenebismethacrylamide, trialylamine, trialyl cyanurate, diallyl maleate, tetraalylethylenediamine, tetraalkyloxyethane, trimethylolpropane diallyl ether, (allyl acrylate), allyl alcohols of the allyl alcohols, or other etheral esters derivatives of phosphoric acid and / or vinylphosphonic acid, or mixtures of these compounds.
[00165] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, a crosslinking agent is chosen from methylenebisacrylamide, ally methacrylate and trimethylolpropane triacrylate (TMPTA). The degree of crosslinking generally varies from 0.01 mol% to 10 mol% and more particularly from 0.2 mol% to 2 mol% with respect to the polymer.
[00166] AMPS® polymers that are suitable for use in the invention are water-soluble or water-dispersible. They are in this case: both "homopolymers" comprising only AMPS monomers and, if they are cross-linked, one or more cross-linking agents, such as those defined above; or copolymers obtained from AMPS® and from one or more ethylenically hydrophobic or hydrophilic unsaturated monomers and, if they are cross-linked, one or more cross-linking agents, such as those defined above. When said copolymers comprise ethylenically hydrophobic unsaturated monomers, they do not comprise a grease chain and are preferably present in small amounts.
[00167] For the purpose of the present invention, the term "grease chain" is intended to mean any hydrocarbon-based chain containing at least 7 carbon atoms.
[00168] The term "water-soluble or water-dispersible" means polymers which, when introduced into an aqueous phase at 25 ° C, in a mass concentration equal to 1%, make it possible to obtain a macroscopically transparent and homogeneous solution, this that is, a solution with a maximum light transmittance value, at a wavelength equal to 500 nm, through a sample 1 cm thick, at least 60% and preferably at least 70%.
[00169] The "homopolymers" according to the invention are preferably cross-linked and neutralized, and they can be obtained from the preparation process comprising the following steps:
[00170] a) The monomer, such as AMPS, in free form is dispersed or dissolved in a solution of tert-butanol or water and tert-butanol;
[00171] b) The solution or dispersion monomer obtained in (a) is neutralized with one or more mineral or organic bases, preferably NH3 aqueous ammonia, in an amount making it possible to obtain a degree of neutralization of the sulfonic acid functions of the polymer varying from 90% to 100%;
[00172] c) The crosslinking monomer (s) are added to the solution or dispersion obtained in (b);
[00173] d) a standard free radical polymerization is performed in the presence of free radical initiators at a temperature ranging from 10 to 150 ° C; the polymer precipitates in the solution or dispersion based on tert-butanol.
[00174] The water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS® copolymers according to the invention contain ethylenically water-soluble unsaturated monomers, hydrophobic monomers, or mixtures thereof.
[00175] Water-soluble co-monomers can be ionic or non-ionic.
[00176] Among the ionic water-soluble comonomers, mention can be made, for example, of the following compounds and salts: (meth) acrylic acid; styrenesulfonic acid; vinylsulfonic acid and (meth) allylsulfonic acid; vinylphosphonic acid; maleic acid; itaconic acid; crotonic acid; water-soluble vinyl monomers of formula (A) below:
on what:
[00177] - R1 is chosen from H, -CH3, -C2H5 and -C3H7;
[00178] - X1 is chosen from:
[00179] - alkyl oxides of the type -OR2 in which R2 is an unsaturated or saturated radical, linear or branched, based on hydrocarbon containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, substituted with at least one sulfonic group (-SO3 -) and / or sulfate (-SO4-) and / or phosphate (-PO4H2-).
[00180] Among non-ionic water-soluble co-monomers, mention can be made, for example, of: (meth) acrylamide; N-vinylacetamide and N-methyl-N-vinylacetamide; N-vinylformamide and N-methyl-N-vinylformamide, - maleic anhydride; vinylamine; N-vinillactam comprising a cyclic alkyl group containing from 4 to 9 carbon atoms, such as N-vinylpyrrolidone, N-butyrolactam and N-vinylcaprolactam; vinyl alcohol of formula CH2 = CHOH; water-soluble vinyl monomers of formula (B) below:
on what:
[00181] - R3 is chosen from H, -CH3, -C2H5 θ -C3H7;
[00182] - X2 is chosen from:
[00183] - alkyl oxides of the type -OR4 in which R4 is a radical based on linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbons having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with a halogen atom (iodine, bromine, chlorine or fluorine); a hydroxyl group (-OH); ether.
[00184] Mention is made, for example, of (meth) acrylate glycidyl, methacrylate, and (meth) acrylates of ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol or polyalkylene glycol.
[00185] Among hydrophobic co-monomers without a grease chain, mention may be made, for example, of: styrene and derivatives thereof, such as 4-butylstyrene, a-methylstyrene and viniltoluene; vinyl acetate of the formula CH2 = CH-OCOCH3; vinyl ethers of formula CH2 = CHOR where R is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon based radical containing from 1 to 6 carbons; acrylonitrile; caprolactone; vinyl chloride and vinylidene chloride; silicone derivatives, which, after polymerization, result in silicone polymers such as methacryloxypropyltris (trimethylsiloxy) silane and silicone methacrylamides; hydrophobic vinyl monomers of formula (C) below:
on what:
[00186] - R4 is chosen from H, -CH3, -C2H5 θ -C3H7;
[00187] - X3 is chosen from:
[00188] - alkyl oxides of the -OR5 type in which Rs is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
[00189] Mention may be made, for example, of methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, n-butyl (meth) acrylate, tert-butyl (meth) acrylate, cyclohexyl acrylate, isobornyl acrylate and 2-ethylhexyl acrylate.
[00190] The water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS® polymers of the invention preferably have a molar mass ranging from 50,000 g / mol to 10,000,000 g / mol, preferably from 80,000 g / mol to 8,000 000 g / mol, and even more preferably from 100 000 g / mol to 7 000 000 g / mol.
[00191] As water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS homopolymers in accordance with the invention, mention may be made, for example, of cross-linked or non-cross-linked polymers of sodium acrylamide-2-methylpropanesulfonate, as used in the commercial product Simulgel 800 (name according to 0 CTFA (Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association) - Sodium Polyacrylldimethyl Taurate), cross-linked ammonium acrylamide-2-methylpropanesulfonate polymers (name according to 0 INCI: ammonia polydimethyltauramide) as described in EP 0 815 928 B1 and like the product sold under the brand Hostacerin AMPS® by the company Clariant.
[00192] As water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS copolymers in accordance with the invention, examples that may be mentioned include: cross-linked acrylamide-2-methylpropanesulfonated acrylamide / sodium copolymers, such as those used in the commercial product Sepigel 305 (Name of according to CTFA 0: Polyacrylamide / Ci3-Ci4 Isoparaffin / Laureto-7) or that used in the commercial product sold under the name Simulgel 600 (Name according to CTFA: Acrylamide Acrylamide Acrylamide / Sodium / Isohexadecane / Polysorbate-80) by the company SEPPIC; copolymers of AMPS® and vinylpyrrolidone or vinylformamide, such as those used in the commercial product sold under the name Aristoflex AVC® by the company Clariant (Name according to CTFA: ammonium acrylldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer), but neutralized with sodium hydroxide or Potassium hydroxide; copolymers of AMPS® and sodium acrylate, for example, the sodium acrylate / AMPS copolymer, such as those used in the commercial product sold under the name Simulgel EG® by the company SEPPIC or under the brand name Sepinov EM (Name according to CTFA: hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer); copolymers of AMPS® and hydroxyethyl acrylate, for example, the AMPS® copolymer / hydroxyethyl acrylate, such as those used in the commercial product sold under the name Simulgel NS® by the company SEPPIC (Name according to CTFA: Copolymer of hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyl dimethyltaurate (e) squalene (e) polysorbate 60), or as the product sold under the name Acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate / hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer, such as the commercial product Sepinov EMT 10 ( Name according to INCI: Copolymer of hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate).
[00193] Preferably, the product sold under the name sodium acrylamide-2-methylpropanesulfonate / hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer, such as the commercial product Sepinov EMT 10 (Name according to INCI: Hydroxyethyl acrylate / acrylldimethyl taurate copolymer) sodium) is used as water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS copolymers in accordance with the invention.
[00194] In general, an aqueous phase according to the invention can comprise from 0.1% to 8% by weight of solids, preferably 0.2% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0, 7% to 2.5% by weight of polyacrylamide (s) and polymer (s) and copolymer (s) of cross-linked and / or neutralized 2-acrylamide-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid in relation to their total weight. B.3 Modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers
[00195] Modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers can be copolymers derived from the polymerization of at least one monomer (a) chosen from α, β-ethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acids or esters thereof, with at least one ethylenically monomer unsaturated (b) comprising a hydrophobic group.
[00196] The term "copolymers" means that both copolymers obtained from two types of monomer and those obtained from more than two types of monomer, such as terpolymers obtained from three types of monomer.
[00197] Its chemical structure more particularly comprises at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one hydrophobic unit. The term "hydrophobic group or unit" means a radical with a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched, comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferably from 18 to 30 carbon atoms.
[00198] Preferably, these copolymers are chosen from copolymers derived from polymerization: of at least one monomer of formula (1) below:
where Ri denotes H or CH3 or C2H5, that is, monomers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or ethacrylic acid, and at least one
monomer of the alkyl esters (C10-C30) type of unsaturated carboxylic acid corresponding to the monomer of formula (2) below: (2) in which R2 denotes H or CH3 or C2H5 (that is, acrylate, methacrylate or ethacrylate units) and preferably H (acrylate units) or CH3 (methacrylate units), R3 denoting a C10-C30 alkyl radical and preferably C12-C22.
[00199] The alkyl esters of unsaturated carboxylic acid (C10-C30) are preferably chosen from lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate and dodecyl acrylate, and the corresponding methacrylates, such as lauryl methacrylate, methacrylate , decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate and dodecyl methacrylate, and mixtures thereof.
[00200] According to a preferred embodiment, these polymers are cross-linked.
[00201] Among the copolymers of this type that will be used more particularly are polymers derived from the polymerization of a monomer mixture comprising: essentially acrylic acid; an ester of formula (2) described above wherein R2 denotes H or CH3, R3 denoting an alkyl radical containing from 12 to 22 carbon atoms; (iii) and a crosslinking agent, which is a known copolymerizable polyethylene monomer, such as diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth) acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly) ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or methylenebisacrylamide.
[00202] Among the copolymers of this type, use will be more particularly made of those consisting of from 95% to 60% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 4% to 40% by weight of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate (unit hydrophobic) and 0 to 6% by weight of crosslinkable polymerizable monomer, or alternatively those consisting of from 98% to 96% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 1% to 4% by weight of C10- alkyl acrylate C30 (hydrophobic unit) and 0.1% to 0.6% by weight of crosslinkable polymerizable monomer such as those previously described.
[00203] Among the aforementioned polymers, those that are more particularly preferred according to the present invention are C10-C30 acrylate / acrylate copolymer (Name according to INCI: Acrylate / acrylate C10-30 acrylate copolymer) such as those products sold by the company Lubrizol under the brands Pemulen TR-1, Pemulen TR-2, Carbopol 1382, Carbopol EDT 2020 and Carbopol Ultrez 20 Polymer, and even more preferably Pemulen TR-2.
[00204] Among the modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, mention may also be made of sodium polyacrylates such as those sold under the name Cosmedia SP® containing 90% solids and 10% water, or Cosmedia SPL® as an emulsion inverse containing about 60% solids, an oil (hydrogenated polydecene) and a surfactant (PPG-5 Laureto-5), both sold by the company Cognis.
[00205] Mention may also be made of partially neutralized sodium polyacrylates which are in the form of a reverse emulsion comprising at least one polar oil, for example, the product sold under the name Luvigel® EM sold by BASF.
[00206] Modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers can also be chosen from cross-linked homopolymers of (meth) acrylic acid.
[00207] For the purposes of the present patent application, the term "(meth) acrylic" means "acrylic or methacrylic".
[00208] Examples that may be mentioned include products sold by Lubrizol under the names Carbopol 910, 934, 940, 941, 934 P, 980, 981, 2984, 5984 and Carbopol Ultrez 10 Polymer, or by 3V- Sigma under the name Synthalen® K, Synthalen® L or Synthalen® M.
[00209] Among the modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, mention may be made in particular of Carbopol (Name according to INCI: carbomer) and Pemulen (Name according to CTFA: Crospolymer acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate) sold by the company Lubrizol.
[00210] Modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers can be present in a proportion of from 0.1% to 5% by weight of solids in relation to the weight of the aqueous phase, in particular from 0.3% to 1% by weight and preferably in a proportion of about 1% by weight, with respect to the weight of the aqueous phase.
[00211] According to a preferred variant, the hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from cross-linked acrylic copolymers or homopolymers; associative polymers, in particular associative polymers of the polyurethane type; cross-linked and / or neutralized polyacrylamides and copolymers and polymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid; modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, and mixtures thereof.
[00212] Advantageously, use is made, as a synthetic polymeric hydrophilic gelling agent, of at least one gelling agent chosen from cross-linked copolymers or acrylic homopolymers; cross-linked and / or neutralized polyacrylamides and copolymers and polymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid; modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, and mixtures thereof, and preferably at least one copolymer or polymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, an associative polyurethane and / or a cross-linked sodium polyacrylate. Lipophilic crosslinking agent
[00213] For the purposes of the present patent application, the term "lipophilic gelling agent" means a compound that is able to gel the oil phase of the compositions according to the invention.
[00214] The gelling agent is lipophilic and thus is present in the oily phase of the composition.
[00215] The gelling agent is fat soluble or lipodispersible.
[00216] As it emerges from the above, the lipophilic gelling agent is advantageously chosen from particulate gelling agents, organopolysiloxane elastomers, semicrystalline polymers and dextrin esters, and mixtures thereof. Particulate gelling agents
[00217] The particulate gelling agent used in the composition according to the invention is in the form of particles, preferably spherical particles.
[00218] As representative lipophilic particulate gelling agents that are suitable for use in the invention, mention can be made more particularly of polar waxes and supports, modified clays, and silicas such as smoked silicas and hydrophobic silica aerogels. Waxes
[00219] The choice of a wax as a lipophilic gelling agent is particularly advantageous in giving the composition according to the invention good emollience and comfort properties. Its combination with an aqueous phase in the form of a gel with a compound such as synthetic polymers gives access to compositions that have emollience and comfort with a cooling effect and advantageously an attenuated oily sensation. Compositions of this type are more particularly advantageous for normal to dry skin types.
[00220] The term "wax" under consideration in the context of the present invention generally means a lipophilic compound that is solid at room temperature (25 ° C), with a reversible solid / liquid change in state, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30 ° C, which can be up to 200 ° C and in particular up to 120 ° C.
[00221] For the purposes of the invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in the thermal analysis (DSC) as described in the ISO 11357-3 standard; 1999. The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example, the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA Instruments.
[00222] The measurement protocol is as follows:
[00223] A sample of 5 mg of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature increase ranging from - 20 ° C to 100 ° C, at a heating rate of 10 ° C / minute, then it is cooled from 100 ° C to -20 ° C at a cooling rate of 10 ° C / minute and is finally subjected to a second temperature rise ranging from -20 ° C to 100 ° C at a heating rate 5 ° C / minute. During the second temperature rise, the change in difference in energy absorbed by the empty crucible and the crucible containing the wax sample is measured as a function of temperature. The melting point of the compound is the temperature value corresponding to the top of the peak of the curve representing the variation in the difference in absorbed energy as a function of temperature.
[00224] The waxes that can be used in the compositions according to the invention are chosen from waxes that are solid at room temperature of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof.
[00225] For the purposes of the invention, waxes can be those generally used in cosmetics or dermatology. They can be especially polar or supportive, and waxes based on hydrocarbons, silicone and / or fluorine, optionally comprising ester or hydroxyl functions. They can also be of natural or synthetic origin. Backing waxes
[00226] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "backing wax" means a wax whose solubility parameter at 25 ° C as defined below, δa, is equal to 0 (J / cm3) 1/2.
[00227] The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters in Hansen's three-dimensional solubility space described in the document C.M. Hansen: "The three-dimensional solubility parameters", J. Paint Technol., 39, 105 (1967).
[00228] According to this Hansen space:
[00229] - δD characterizes the London dispersion forces derived from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular impacts;
[00230] - δPharacterizes Debye's interaction forces between permanent dipoles and also Keesom's interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles;
[00231] - δh characterizes specific interaction forces (such as hydrogen, acid / base bond, donor / receptor, etc.); and
[00232] - δa is determined by the equation: δa = (δP2 + δh2)> 2.
[00233] The parameters δp, δh, δD and δa are expressed in (J / cm3) 1/2.
[00234] Supportive waxes are in particular hydrocarbon waxes consisting solely of atoms of hydrogen and carbon and devoid of heteroatoms, such as N, O, Si and P.
[00235] Supportive waxes are chosen from microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite and polyethylene wax, and mixtures thereof.
[00236] Mention can be made, as ozokerite, of Ozokerite Wax SP 1020 P.
[00237] As microcrystalline waxes that can be used, mention can be made of Multiwax W 445® sold by the company Sonneborn, and Microwax HW® and Base Wax 30540® sold by the company Paramelt, and Cerewax® No. 3 sold by the company Baerlocher.
[00238] As microceras that can be used in compositions according to the invention as backing wax, mention can be made especially of polyethylene microceras such as those sold under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by the company Micro Powders.
[00239] Polyethylene waxes that may be mentioned include Performalene 500-L Polyethylene and Performalene 400 Polyethylene sold by New Fase Technologies, and Asensa® SC 211 sold by Honeywell. b) Polar waxes
[00240] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polar wax" means a wax whose solubility parameter at 25 ° C, δa, is other than 0 (J / cm3) 1-4.
[00241] In particular, the term "polar wax" means a wax whose chemical structure is formed essentially from, or even consisting of, hydrogen and carbon atoms, and comprising at least one highly electronegative heteroatom such as an oxygen atom , nitrogen, silicon or phosphorus.
[00242] Polar waxes can be especially waxes based on hydrocarbons, fluorine or silicone.
[00243] Preferably, polar waxes can be hydrocarbon based waxes.
[00244] The term "hydrocarbon based wax" means a wax formed essentially from, or even consisting of, hydrogen and carbon atoms, and optionally oxygen and hydrogen atoms, and not containing any silicone or fluorine atoms. It may contain groups of alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide.
[00245] According to the invention, the term "ester wax" means a wax comprising at least one ester function. According to the invention, the term "alcohol wax" means a wax comprising at least one alcohol functional group, that is, comprising at least one free hydroxyl (OH) group.
[00246] The following can be especially used as ester wax: ester waxes such as those chosen from: waxes of formula R1COOR2 where Ri and R2 represent linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chains where the number of atoms varies from 10 to 50, which can contain a hetero atom such as O, N or P and whose melting point varies from 25 to 120 ° C; bis (1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate, sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company Heterene; diester esters of a dicarboxylic acid of the general formula R3 - (- OCO-R4-COO-R5), wherein R3 and R5 are identical or different, preferably identical and represent a C4-C30 alkyl group (alkyl group comprising from 4 at 30 carbon atoms) and R4 represents a linear or branched C4-C30 aliphatic group (alkyl group comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms) that may or may not contain one or more unsaturated groups, and preferably that are linear and unsaturated ; mention can also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils having straight or branched C8-C32 fatty chains, for example, such as hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil , and also the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of steric castor oil with cetyl alcohol; beeswax, synthetic beeswax, polyglycerolated beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, oxypropylenated lanolin wax, rice bran wax, ouricuri wax, asparagus wax, cork fiber wax, cane wax sugar, japan wax, sumac wax; montana wax, orange wax, laurel wax and hydrogenated jojoba wax, sunflower wax, lemon wax, olive wax or berry wax.
[00247] According to another modality, the polar wax can be an alcohol wax. According to the invention, the term "alcohol wax" means a wax comprising at least one alcohol function, that is, comprising at least one free hydroxyl (OH) group. Examples of alcohol waxes that can be mentioned include C30-50 Alcohols Performacol® 550 Alcohol sold by New Fase Technologies, stearyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol.
[00248] It is also possible to use silicone waxes, which can advantageously be substituted polysiloxanes, preferably with a low melting point.
[00249] The term "silicone wax" means a wax comprising at least one silicon atom, and especially comprising groups of Si-O.
[00250] Among commercial silicone waxes of this type, mention can be made especially of those sold under the names Abilwax 9800, 9801 or 9810 (Goldschmidt), KF910 and KF7002 (Shin-Etsu), or 176-111118-3 and 176- 11481 (General Electric).
[00251] The silicone waxes that can be used can also be alkyl or alkoxy dimethicones, and also alkyl (C20-C60) dimethicones, in particular alkyl (C30-C45) dimethicones, such as silicone wax sold under The name SF-1642 by the company GE-Bayer Silicones or C30-45 polypropylsilsquioxane alkyl dimethylsilyl sold under the name SW-8005® C30 Resin Wax by the company Dow Corning.
[00252] In the context of the present invention, particularly advantageous waxes that can be mentioned include polyethylene waxes, jojoba wax, candelilla wax and silicone waxes, in particular candelilla wax.
[00253] They can be present in the oil phase in a proportion of from 0.5% to 30% by weight in relation to the weight of the oil phase, for example between 5% and 20% of the oil phase and more particularly from from 2% to 15% by weight in relation to the weight of the oil phase. Modified clays
[00254] The composition according to the invention can comprise at least one lipophilic clay.
[00255] Clays can be natural or synthetic, and they can be lipophilic by treatment with an alkylammonium salt such as a Cio to C22 ammonium chloride, for example, distearyldimethylammonium chloride.
[00256] They can be chosen from bentonites, in particular hectorites and montmorillonites, beidelites, saponites, nontronites, sepiolites, biotites, atapulgites, vermiculites and zeolites.
[00257] They are preferably chosen from hectoritas.
[00258] Hectorites modified with ammonium chloride C10 to C22, for example, hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride, for example, the product sold under the name Bentone 38VÒ by the company Elementis or bentone gel in isododecane sold under the name Bentone Gel ISD V® (87% isododecane / 10% disteardimony hectorite / 3% propylene carbonate) by Elementis, are preferably used as lipophilic clays.
[00259] Lipophilic clay can be especially present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, particularly from 0.5% to 10% and more particularly from 1% to 10% by weight in relation to the total weight of the oil phase. Silicas
The oil phase of a composition according to the invention may also comprise, as a gelling agent, a smoked silica or airgel silica particles. Smoked silica
[00261] Smoked silica that has undergone a hydrophobic surface treatment is more particularly suitable for use in the invention. Specifically, it is possible to chemically modify the silica surface, by chemical reaction generating a reduced number of silanol group present on the silica surface. The silanol group can in particular be replaced by hydrophobic groups: the hydrophobic silica is thus obtained.
[00262] Hydrophobic groups can be: trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are obtained in particular when treating smoked silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas so treated are known as "silica silylate" according to the CTFA (8th edition, 2000). They can be sold, for example, under the references Aerosil R812Ò by the company Degussa, and Cab-O-Sil TS-530Ò by the company Cabot; dimethylsilyloxy or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are obtained in particular by treating smoked silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas so treated are named “Silica dimethyl silylate” according to the CTFA (8th edition, 2000). They are, for example, sold under the references Aerosil R972® and Aerosil R974® by the company Degussa and Cab-O-Sil TS-610® and Cab-O-Sil TS-720® by the company Cabot.
[00263] Smoked silicas can be present in a composition according to the present invention in a content of between 0.1% and 40% by weight, more particularly between 1% and 15% by weight and even more particularly between 2% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the oil phase. b) Hydrophobic silica aerosols
[00264] The oil phase of a composition according to the invention may also comprise, as a gelling agent, at least particles of silica airgel.
[00265] Silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air.
[00266] They are generally synthesized by means of a sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then dried, usually by extraction with a supercritical fluid, the most commonly used being supercritical CO2. This type of drying makes it possible to avoid the contraction of pores and material. The sol-gel process and the various drying operations are described in detail in Brinker C.J. and Scherer G.W., Sol-Gel Science, New York: Academic Press, 1990.
[00267] The hydrophobic silica airgel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit mass (SM) ranging from 500 to 1500 m2 / g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m2 / g and even better from 600 to 800 m2 / g, and a size expressed as the main volume diameter (D [0.5]) varying from 1 to 1500 pm, even better from 1 to 1000 pm, preferably from from 1 to 100 pm, in particular from 1 to 30 pm, more preferably from 5 to 25 pm, even better from 5 to 20 pm and even better from 5 to 15 pm.
[00268] According to one embodiment, the hydrophobic silica airgel particles used in the present invention have a size expressed as the main volume diameter (D [0.5]) varying from 1 to 30 pm, preferably from 5 to 25 pm, even better from 5 to 20 pm and even better from 5 to 15 pm.
[00269] The specific surface area per unit of mass can be determined by the nitrogen adsorption method, known as the BET method (Brunauer-Emmett-Teller), described in the Journal of The American Chemical Society, Vol. 60, page 309, February 1938, which corresponds to the international standard ISO 5794/1 (Appendix D). The specific surface area BET corresponds to the total specific surface area of the particles under consideration.
[00270] The particle sizes of silica airgel can be measured by scanning static light using a commercial particle size analyzer such as Malvern's MasterSizer 2000 machine, the data is analyzed on the basis of Mie scanning theory. This theory, which is accurate for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of non-spherical particles, an "effective" particle diameter. This theory is in particular described in the publication by Van de Hulst, H.C., Light Scattering by Small Particles, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.
[00271] According to an advantageous embodiment, the hydrophobic silica airgel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit mass (SM) ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g.
[00272] The silica airgel particles used in the present invention can advantageously have a compacted density p ranging from 0.02 g / cm3 to 0.10 g / cm3, preferably from 0.03 g / cm3 to 0 , 08 g / cm3 and in particular ranging from 0.05 g / cm3 to 0.08 g / cm3.
[00273] In the context of the present invention, this density can be estimated according to the following protocol, known as compacted density protocol:
[00274] 40 g of powder are placed in a measuring cylinder; the measuring cylinder is then placed on a Stav 2003 machine from Volumeter Stampf; the measuring cylinder is then subjected to a series of 2500 compaction actions (this operation is repeated until the difference in volume between two consecutive tests is less than 2%); The final volume Vf of the compacted powder is then measured directly in the measuring cylinder. The compacted density is determined by the m / Vf ratio, in this case 40 / Vf (Vf being expressed in cm3 and m in g).
[00275] According to one embodiment, the hydrophobic silica airgel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit volume SV ranging from 5 to 60 m2 / cm3, preferably from 10 to 50 m2 / cm3 and even better from 15 to 40 m2 / cm3.
[00276] The specific surface area per unit of volume is given by the relation: SV = SM x p; where p is the compacted density, expressed in g / cm3, and SM is the specific surface per unit mass, expressed in m2 / g, as defined above.
[00277] Preferably, the hydrophobic silica airgel particles according to the invention have an oil-absorbing capacity, measured at the moisture point, ranging from 5 to 18 ml / g, preferably from 6 to 15 ml / g and even better from 8 to 12 ml / g.
[00278] The absorption capacity measured at the moisture point, known as Wp, corresponds to the amount of oil that needs to be added to 100 g of particles in order to obtain a homogeneous paste.
[00279] It is measured according to the moisture point method or the method for determining the oil absorption of a powder described in standard NF T 30-022. It corresponds to the amount of oil adsorbed on the available surface of the powder and / or absorbed by the powder when measuring the moisture point, described below:
[00280] An amount m = 2 g of powder is placed on a glass plate, and the oil (isononyl isononanoate) is then added dropwise. After adding 4 to 5 drops of oil to the powder, mixing is performed using a spatula, and the oil is continued until an agglomerate of oil and powder has been formed. From this point, the oil is added one drop at a time and the mixture is then crushed with the spatula. The addition of oil is stopped when a firm and smooth paste is obtained. This paste must be able to be spread on the glass plate without cracking or forming clusters. The volume Vs (expressed in ml) of used oil is then noted.
[00281] The oil absorption corresponds to the Vs / m ratio.
[00282] The aerogels used in accordance with the present invention are hydrophobic silica aerogels, preferably silylated silica (Name according to INCI: silylated silica).
[00283] The term "hydrophobic silica" means any silica whose surface is treated with silylating agents, for example, halogenated silanes such as alkyl chlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes, such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, in order to functionalize the OH groups with Si-Rn silyl groups, for example, trimethylsilyl groups.
[00284] Regarding the preparation of hydrophobic silica airgel particles that have been modified on the surface by silylation, reference can be made to US 7 470 725.
[00285] Use will preferably be made of hydrophobic silica airgel particles modified on the surface with trimethylsilyl groups, preferably from the name according to the INCI Silica silica.
[00286] As hydrophobic silica aerogels that can be used in the invention, examples that can be mentioned include the airgel sold under the name VM-2260 or VM-2270 (Name according to INCI: Silica silylate), by the company Dow Corning, whose particles have an average size of about 1000 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g.
[00287] Mention may also be made of airgel sold by the company Cabot under the references Airgel TLD 201, Airgel OGD 201 and Airgel TLD 203, Enova® Airgel MT 1100 and Enova Airgel MT 1200.
[00288] Use will preferably be made of the airgel sold under the name VM-2270 (Name according to INCI: Silica silica), by the company Dow Corning, whose particles have an average size ranging from 5-15 microns and a specific surface area per unit of mass ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g.
[00289] Preferably, the hydrophobic silica airgel particles are present in the composition according to the invention in a solid content ranging from 0.1% to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight and preferably from 0.2% to 3% by weight in relation to the total weight of the oil phase.
[00290] The choice of a silicone derivative or a modified clay as a lipophilic gelling agent proves to be more particularly favored for preparing cosmetic compositions designed to provide a mattifying and non-greasy effect with a cooling effect.
[00291] Such a gelling agent is particularly advantageous for formulating care and / or makeup compositions for oily to combination skin types. Orqanopolisyloxane elastomer
[00292] The organopolysiloxane elastomer that can be used as a lipophilic gelling agent also has the advantage of resulting in a composition according to the invention with good application properties. This provides a very delicate good feeling and a matte effect after application, which is especially advantageous for application to the skin, in particular for base compositions. This can also allow for efficient filling of the depressions present in the keratin materials.
[00293] The term "organopolysiloxane elastomer" or "silicone elastomer" means a soft deformable organopolysiloxane with viscoelastic properties and especially with the consistency of a sponge or a smooth sphere. Its modulus of elasticity is such that this material resists deformation and has a limited ability to extend and contract. This material is able to recover its original shape after stretching.
[00294] It is more particularly a cross-linked organopolysiloxane elastomer.
[00295] Thus, the organopolysiloxane elastomer can be obtained by a crosslinking reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicone and diorganopolysiloxane containing unsaturated groups ethylenically bonded to silicone, especially in the presence of a platinum catalyst; or by dehydrogenation crosslinking condensation reaction between the diorganopolisiloxane containing hydroxyl end groups and a diorganopolisyloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to the silicone, especially in the presence of an organo-tin; or by crosslinking condensation reaction of a diorganopolisiloxane containing hydroxyl end groups and a hydrolyzable organopolysilane; or by thermal cross-linking of organopolysiloxane, especially in the presence of an organoperoxide catalyst; or by crosslinking organopolysiloxane by means of high energy radiation such as gamma rays, ultraviolet rays or an electron irradiation.
[00296] Preferably, the organopolysiloxane elastomer is obtained by the crosslinking reaction (A) of diorganopolisiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each attached to a silicone, and (B) of diorganopolisyloxane containing at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups attached to the silicone, especially in the presence (C) of a platinum catalyst, as described, for example, in patent application EP-A-295 886.
[00297] In particular, the organopolysiloxane elastomer can be obtained by reacting a dimethylpolysiloxane with dimethylvinylsiloxy and methylhydrogenopolisyloxane end groups with trimethylsiloxy end groups, in the presence of a platinum catalyst.
[00298] Compound (A) is the base compound for the formation of organopolysiloxane elastomer, and the crosslinking is performed by adding compound (A) with compound (B) in the presence of the catalyst (C).
[00299] Compound (A) is in particular an organopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogen atoms attached to different silicone atoms in each molecule.
[00300] Compound (A) can exhibit any molecular structure, in particular, a straight chain or branched chain structure or a cyclic structure.
[00301] Compound (A) can have a viscosity at 25 ° C ranging from 1 to 50,000 centistokes, in particular in order to be satisfactorily miscible with compound (B).
[00302] The organic groups attached to the silicone atoms of compound (A) can be alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl, xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and groups based on substituted monovalent hydrocarbons such as an epoxy group, a carboxylated ester group or a mercapto group.
[00303] Compound (A) can therefore be chosen from methylhydrogenopolisyloxanes comprising trimethylsiloxy-end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrosiloxane copolymers comprising trimethylsiloxy-methyldrosiloxane copolymer groups.
[00304] Compound (B) is advantageously a diorganopolisyloxane containing at least two lower alkenyl groups (for example C2-C4); The lower alkenyl group can be chosen from vinyl, allyl and propenyl groups. These lower alkenyl groups can be located at any position on the organopolysiloxane molecule, but are preferably located at the ends of the organopolysiloxane molecule. Organopolysiloxane (B) may have a branched, linear, cyclic or weft structure, but the linear chain structure is preferred. Compound (B) can have a viscosity ranging from a liquid to a gum state. Preferably, compound (B) has a viscosity of at least 100 centistokes at 25 ° C.
[00305] In addition to the aforementioned alkenyl groups, the other organic groups attached to the silicone atoms in compound (B) can be alkali groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and groups based on substituted monovalent hydrocarbons such as an epoxy group, a carboxylated ester group or a mercapto group.
[00306] The organopolysiloxanes (B) can be chosen from methylvinylpolysiloxanes, methylvinylsiloxane-dimethylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylpolysiloxy comprising dimethylvinylsiloxymethylmethyl groups, dimethylvinylsiloxymethyl groups, dimethylethylsiloxane comprising groups dimethylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers comprising trimethylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers comprising trimethylsiloxy, methyl (3,3,3-trifluoropropyl) polysiloxyethyl (3-dimethyl) methylsiloxy-methyl groups, and dimethylsiloxy-methyl groups 3-trifluoropropyl) siloxane comprising dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups.
[00307] In particular, the organopolysiloxane elastomer can be obtained by reacting dimethylpolysiloxane comprising dimethylvinylsiloxy and methylhydropolysiloxane end groups comprising trimethylsiloxy end groups, in the presence of a platinum catalyst.
[00308] Advantageously, the sum of the number of ethylene groups per molecule of compound (B) and the number of hydrogen atoms attached to the silicone atoms per molecule of compound (A) is at least 5.
[00309] It is advantageous for compound (A) to be added in an amount such that the molecular ratio of the total amount of hydrogen atoms attached to the silicone atoms in compound (A) to the total amount of all ethylenically unsaturated groups in the compound (B) is within the range from 1.5 / 1 to 20/1.
[00310] Compound (C) is the catalyst for the crosslinking reaction and is in particular chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid / olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid / alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid / diketone, black platinum and platinum complexes in support.
[00311] Catalyst (C) is preferably added from 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight, even better from 1 to 100 parts by weight, as an appropriate platinum metal, per 1000 parts by weight of the total amount of compounds (A) and (B).
[00312] The elastomer is advantageously a non-emulsifying elastomer.
[00313] The term "non-emulsifier" defines organopolysiloxane elastomers not containing any hydrophilic chains, and in particular not containing any polyoxyalkylene units (especially polyoxyethylene or polyoxypropylene) or any polyglyceryl units. Thus, according to a particular mode of the invention, the composition comprises an organopolysiloxane elastomer free of polyoxyalkylene units and polyglyceryl units.
[00314] In particular, the silicone elastomer used in the present invention is chosen from Dimethicone Crospolymer (Name according to INCI), Dimethicone Vinyl Crospolymer (Name according to INCI), Dimethicone / Dimethicone Vinyl Crospolymer (Name according to INCI), Crospolymer of Dimethicone-3 (Name according to INCI).
[00315] The organopolysiloxane elastomer particles can be conducted in the form of a gel formed from an elastomeric organopolysiloxane included in at least one oil based on hydrocarbon and / or a silicone oil. In these gels, organopolysiloxane particles are often non-spherical particles.
[00316] Non-emulsifying elastomers are described especially in EP 242 219, EP 285 886 and EP 765 656 and in patent application JP-A-61-194009, the content of which is incorporated herein for reference purposes.
[00317] The silicone elastomer is generally in the form of a gel, a paste or a powder, but advantageously in the form of a gel in which the silicone elastomer is dispersed in a linear silicone oil (Dimethicone) or cyclic silicone oil (eg cyclopentasiloxane), advantageously in a linear silicone oil.
[00318] Non-emulsifying elastomers that can be used more particularly include those sold under the names KSG-6, KSG-15, KSG-16, KSG-18, KSG-41, KSG-42, KSG-43 and KSG-44 by Shin-Etsu, DC9040 and DC9041 by Dow Corning, and SFE 839 by General Electric.
[00319] According to another alternative, the composition according to the invention may comprise an organopolysiloxane elastomer having the name according to INCI 'Polysilicona 11', such as that sold under the name Gransil by Grant Industries.
[00320] According to a particular mode, use is made of a silicone elastomer gel dispersed in a silicone oil chosen from a non-exhaustive list comprising cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, dimethicone, dimethylsiloxane, methyl trimethicone, phenyl methicone, phenyl dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone and cyclomethicone, preferably a linear silicone oil chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) or dimethicone with a viscosity at 25 ° C ranging from 1 to 500 cSt, optionally modified with optionally fluorinated aliphatic groups, or with functional groups such such as hydroxyl, thiol and / or amine groups.
[00321] Mention can be made especially of compounds having the following names according to INCI:
[00322] - Dimethicone / Vinyl Crospolymer Dimethicone, such as USG-105 and USG-107A from the company Shin-Etsu; DC9506 and DC9701 from Dow Corning,
[00323] - Dimethicone / Vinyl Crospolymer Dimethicone (e) Dimethicone, such as KSG-6 and KSG-16 from the company Shin-Etsu;
[00324] - Dimethicone / Vinyl Crospolymer Dimethicone (e) cyclopentasiloxane, such as KSG-15,
[00325] - Cyclopentasiloxane (e) Dimethicone Crospolymer, such as DC9040, DC9045 and DC5930 from Dow Corning,
[00326] - Dimethicone (e) Dimethicone Crospolymer, such as DC9041 from Dow Corning,
[00327] - Dimethicone (e) Dimethicone Crospolymer, such as Dow Corning EL-9240® combination of silicone elastomer from Dow Corning (mixture of cross-linked polydimethylsiloxane with hexadiene / polydimethylsiloxane (2 cSt)),
[00328] - C4-24 Dimethicone alkyl / Crospolymer of divinyl Dimethicone, such as NuLastic Silk MA from Alzo.
[00329] As examples of silicone elastomers dispersed in a linear silicone oil that can be advantageously used according to the invention, mention can also be made especially of the following references:
[00330] - Dimethicone / Vinyl Crospolymer Dimethicone (e) Dimethicone, such as KSG-6 and KSG-16 from the company Shin-Etsu;
[00331] - Dimethicone (e) Crospolymer of Dimethicone, such as DC9041 from the company Dow Corning; and
[00332] - Dimethicone (e) Crospolymer of Dimethicone, such as Dow Corning EL-9240® combination of silicone elastomer from Dow Corning.
[00333] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one crosslinked silicone elastomer having the name according to the INCI 'Dimethicone Crospolymer' or 'Dimethicone (e) Dimethicone Crospolymer', with preferably a Dimethicone having a viscosity varying from 1 to 100 cSt, in particular from 1 to 10 cSt at 25 ° C, such as the hexadiene crosslinked polydimethylsiloxane mixture (polydimethylsiloxane (5 cSt) sold under the name DC 9041 Dow Corning or the cross-linked polydimethylsiloxane / hexadienp / polydimethylsiloxane (2 cSt) mixture sold under the name Dow Corning EL-9240® Dow Corning silicone elastomer combination.
[00334] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one crosslinked silicone elastomer having the name according to the INCI 'Dimethicone (e) Dimethicone Crospolymer', with preferably a Dimethicone having a viscosity ranging from 1 to 100 cSt, in particular from 1 to 10 cSt at 25 ° C, such as the crosslinked polydimethylsiloxane with hexadiene / polydimethylsiloxane (5 cSt) mixture sold under the name DC 9041 Dow Corning.
[00335] The organopolysiloxane elastomer particles can also be used in powder form: mention can be made of powders sold under the names 9505 Powder Dow Corning and 9506 Powder Dow Corning by the company Dow Corning, these powders having the name according to INCI: Dimethicone / Vinyl Crospolymer Dimethicone.
[00336] The organopolysiloxane powder can also be coated with silsesquioxane resin, as described, for example, in US patent 5 538 793. Such elastomeric powders are sold under the names KSP-100, KSP-101, KSP-102, KSP-103 , KSP-104 and KSP-105 by the company Shin-Etsu, and are named according to the INCI: vinyl Dimethicone / crospolímero meticona silsesquioxane.
[00337] As preferred lipophilic gelling agents of the type organopolysiloxane elastomer, mention may be made more particularly of cross-linked organopolysiloxanes elastomers chosen from Dimethicone Crospolymer (Name according to INCI), Dimethicone (e) Dimethicone Crospolymer (Name of Dimethicone) according to INCI), Dimethicone Vinyl Crospolymer (Name according to INCI), Dimethicone / Dimethicone Vinyl Crospolymer (Name according to INCI), Dimethicone-3 Crospolymer (Name according to INCI), and in particular mention made to the Dimethicone Crospolymer (Name according to INCI).
[00338] The organopolysiloxane elastomer can be present in a composition according to the present invention in a content between 0.5% and 35% by weight of solids and especially between 2% and 15% by weight in relation to the total weight of the phase oily.
[00339] Semicrystalline polymers
[00340] The composition according to the invention can comprise at least one semicrystalline polymer. Preferably, the semicrystalline polymer has an organic structure, and a melting point greater than or equal to 30 ° C.
[00341] For the purposes of the invention, the term "semicrystalline polymer" means polymers comprising a crystallizable portion and an amorphous portion and having a reversible first order change in phase temperature, in particular melting (solid-liquid transition). The crystallizable portion is either a side chain (or pendant chain) or a block on the main chain.
[00342] When the crystallizable portion of the semicrystalline polymer is a block of the polymer main chain, this crystallizable block has a different chemical nature than that of amorphous blocks; in this case, the semicrystalline polymer is a block copolymer, for example, of the diblock, triblock or multiple block type. When the crystallizable portion is a chain that is pendent on the main chain, the semicrystalline polymer can be a homopolymer or a copolymer.
[00343] The melting point of the semicrystalline polymer is preferably less than 150 ° C.
[00344] The melting point of the semicrystalline polymer is preferably greater than or equal to 30 ° C and less than 100 ° C. More preferably, the melting point of the semicrystalline polymer is preferably greater than or equal to 30 ° C and less than 70 ° C.
[00345] The semicrystalline polymer (s) according to the invention are solids at room temperature (25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), with a melting point greater than or equal to 30 ° C . The melting point values correspond to the melting point measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), such as the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by Mettler, with a temperature rise of 5 ° C or 10 ° C per minute. (The melting point under consideration is the point corresponding to the temperature of the most endothermic peak in the thermogram).
[00346] The semicrystalline polymer (s) according to the invention preferably have a melting point that is greater than the temperature of the keratinous support intended to receive said composition, in particular the skin or lips.
[00347] According to the invention, semicrystalline polymers are advantageously soluble in the grease phase, especially at least 1% by weight, at a temperature that is greater than their melting point. In addition to crystallizable chains or blocks, the polymer blocks are amorphous.
[00348] For the purposes of the invention, the term "crystallizable chain or block" means a chain or block that, if obtained alone, would change from the amorphous state to the crystalline state reversibly, depending on whether one is above or below the melting point . For the purposes of the invention, a "chain" is a group of atoms, which is pendant or lateral to the main polymer chain. A block is a group of atoms belonging to the main chain, this group constituting one of the repeating units of the polymer.
[00349] Preferably, the polymer main chain of semicrystalline polymers is soluble in the oil phase at a temperature above its melting point.
[00350] Preferably, the crystallizable blocks or chains of semicrystalline polymers represent at least 30% of the total weight of each polymer and even better at least 40%. Semicrystalline polymers containing crystallizable side chains are homopolymers or copolymers. The semicrystalline polymers of the invention containing crystallizable blocks are block or multiple block copolymers. They can be obtained by polymerizing a monomer containing reactive double bonds (or ethylenic bonds) or by means of polycondensation. When the polymers of the invention are polymers having crystallizable side chains, these side chains are advantageously in random or statistical form.
[00351] Preferably, the semicrystalline polymers of the invention are of synthetic origin.
[00352] According to a preferred embodiment, the semicrystalline polymer is chosen from: homopolymers and copolymers comprising units resulting from the polymerization of one or more monomers assuming crystallizable hydrophobic side chains (s); polymers assuming at least one crystallizable block in the main chain; polycondensates of the aromatic / aliphatic or aromatic or aliphatic polyester type; copolymers of ethylene and propylene prepared by metallocene catalysis; and acrylate / silicone copolymers.
[00353] The semicrystalline polymers that can be used in the invention can be chosen in particular from: block copolymers of controlled crystallization polyolefins, the monomers of which are described in EP-A-0 951 897; polycondensates, especially of the aromatic / aliphatic or aromatic or aliphatic polyester type; copolymers of ethylene and propylene prepared by metallocene catalysis; homopolymers or copolymers assuming at least one crystallizable side chain and homopolymers or copolymers assuming in the main chain at least one crystallizable block, such as that described in US-A-5 156 911, such as alkyl ospolycrylates (C10-C30) corresponding to Intelimer® products from the company Landec described in the magazine Intelimer® Polymers, Landec IP22 (Rev. 4-97), for example, the product Intelimer® IPA 13-1 from the company Landec, which is a polystyrene acrylate with a molecular weight of about 145,000 and a melting point of 49 ° C; homopolymers or copolymers assuming at least one crystallizable side chain, in particular containing fluorine group (s), as described in WO-A-01/19333; acrylate / silicone copolymers, such as acrylic acid and esterail acrylate copolymers assuming polydimethylsiloxane assemblies, stearyl methacrylate copolymers assuming polydimethylsiloxane assemblies, acrylic acid and stearyl methacrylate copolymers assuming polydimethylsiloxyl assemblies , butyl methacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl acrylate and stearyl methacrylate assuming polydimethylsiloxane assemblies. Mention may be made in particular of copolymers sold by the company Shin-Etsu under the names KP-561 (Name according to 0 CTFA: acrylates / Dimethicone), KP-541 (Name according to 0 CTFA: acrylates / Dimethicone and isopropyl alcohol ), KP-545 (Name according to 0 CTFA: acrylates / Dimethicone and cyclopentasiloxane); and mixtures thereof.
[00354] Preferably, the amount of semicrystalline polymer (s), preferably chosen from semicrystalline polymers assuming crystallizable side chains, represents from 0.1% to 30% by weight of solids in relation to the total weight of the oily phase, for example from 0.5% to 25% by weight, even better from 5% to 20% or even from 5% to 12% by weight, in relation to the total weight of the oil phase. Dextrin esters
[00355] The composition according to the invention can comprise as a lipophilic gelling agent at least one dextrin ester.
[00356] In particular, the composition preferably comprises at least one dextrin fatty acid ester, preferably C12 to C24, and in particular C14-C18, or mixtures thereof.
[00357] Preferably, the dextrin ester is an ester of dextrin and a C12-C18 fatty acid and in particular C14-C18.
[00358] Preferably, the dextrin ester is chosen from dextrin myristate and / or dextrin palmitate, and mixtures thereof.
[00359] According to a particular embodiment, the dextrin ester is dextrin myristate, especially as the product sold especially under the name Rheopearl MKL-2 by the company Chiba Flour Milling.
[00360] According to a preferred embodiment, the dextrin ester is dextrin palmitate. This product can be chosen, for example, from the one sold under the names Rheopearl TL®, Rheopearl KL® and Rheopearl® KL2 by the company Chiba Flour Milling.
[00361] In a particularly preferred manner, the oil phase of a composition according to the invention can comprise from 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 2% to 25% and preferably from 7 , 5% to 17% by weight of dextrin ester (s) in relation to the total weight of the oil phase.
[00362] In a particularly preferred manner, the composition according to the invention can comprise between 0.1% and 10% by weight and preferably between 0.5% and 5% by weight of dextrin palmitate in relation to the total weight of the phase oily. Dextrin palmitate can be especially the product sold under the names Rheopearl TL®, Rheopearl KL® or Rheopearl® KL2 by the company Chiba Flour Milling.
[00363] According to an advantageous variant, a composition according to the invention comprises a lipophilic gelling agent chosen from modified clays and especially bentonites and preferably hectorites; waxes, in particular polar waxes especially including ester waxes and preferably candelilla wax; hydrophobic silica, in particular hydrophobic silica aerogels and preferably silica silylates; dextrin esters and preferably dextrin palmitate, organopolysiloxane elastomers, and mixtures thereof.
[00364] In particular, this lipophilic gelling agent is chosen from at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer or a dextrin ester and / or a particulate gelling agent, and in particular it is chosen from a hydrophobic silica, a modified clay and a wax, and mixtures thereof. Hydrophilic gelling agent (s) / Lipophilic gelling agent (s)
[00365] As the preferred synthetic polymeric hydrophilic gelling agent, mention may be made more particularly of: polymers of 2-acrylamido-2methylpropanesulfonic acid, for example, AMPS® and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2methylpropanesulfonic acid and in particular copolymers of AMPS® and hydroxyethyl acrylate, for example, the AMPS® copolymer / hydroxyethyl acrylate such as those used in the commercial product sold under the name Simulgel NS® by the company SEPPIC (Name according to CTFA: Hydroxyethyl acrylate / acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer) sodium (e) squalane (e) polysorbate 60), or as the product sold under the name sodium acrylamide-2-methylpropanesulfonate / hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer, such as the commercial product Sepinov EMT 10 (Name according to INCI: hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer); associative polymers, in particular, nonionic associative polymers especially of the polyurethane type, for example, associative polyurethanes, such as Steareth-100 / PEG-136 / HDI Copolymer sold under the name Rheolate FX 1100 by Elementis; cross-linked acrylic copolymers or homopolymers, and in particular cross-linked sodium polyacrylate, for example, Aquakeep from Sumitomo Seika; modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, and in particular Pemulen (Name according to CTFA: C10-30 acrylate / acrylate crospolymer) sold by Lubrizol, and also those made of sodium polyacrylates such as those sold under 0 Cosmedia SP® name containing 90% solids and 10% water, by the company Cognis.
[00366] As preferred lipophilic gelling agents of the organopolysiloxane elastomer type, mention may be made more particularly of crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomers chosen from Dimethicone Crospolymer (Name according to 0 INCI), Dimethicone (e) Dimethicone Crospolymer (Name of Dimethicone) according to 0 INCI), Dimethicone Vinyl Crospolymer (Name according to INCI 0), Dimethicone / Dimethicone Vinyl Crospolymer (Name according to 0 INCI), Dimethicone-3 Crospolymer (Name according to 0 INCI), and in Particular mention can be made of Dimethicone Crospolymer (Name according to 0 INCI) and Dimethicone (e) Dimethicone Crospolymer (Name according to 0 INCI).
[00367] According to a particular mode, the use is made of a silicone elastomer gel dispersed in a silicone oil chosen from a non-exhaustive list and comprising cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, dimethicone, dimethylsiloxane, methyl trimethicone, phenyl methicone, Dimethicone phenyl, phenyl trimethicone and cyclomethicone, preferably a linear silicone oil chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) or dimethicones with a viscosity at 25 ° C ranging from 1 to 500 cSt, especially the following references: Dimethicone / Vinyl Crospolymer Dimethicone (e) Dimethicone, such as KSG-6 and KSG-16 from the company Shin-Etsu; Dimethicone (e) Dimethicone Crospolymer, such as DC9041 from Dow Corning; and Dimethicone (e) Dimethicone Crospolymer (Name according to INCI), such as Dow Corning EL-9240® combination of silicone elastomer from Dow Corning.
[00368] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one crosslinked silicone elastomer having the name according to the INCI 'Dimethicone (e) Dimethicone Crospolymer', with preferably a Dimethicone having a viscosity ranging from 1 to 100 cSt, in particular from 1 to 10 cSt at 25 ° C, such as the cross-linked polydimethylsiloxane mixture with hexadiene / polydimethylsiloxane (5 cSt) sold under the name DC 9041 Dow Corning or the mixture polyadimethylsiloxane crosslinked with hexadiene / polydimethylsiloxane (2 cSt) sold under the name Dow Corning EL-9240® combination of silicone elastomer from Dow Corning.
[00369] As the preferred lipophilic particulate gelling agent, mention may be made more particularly of: modified clay and especially bentonites and preferably hectorites. Especially suitable for use in this connection are Bentona 38V and the Bentona gel in isododecane under the name Bentone Gel ISD V® sold by the company Elementis; waxes, in particular polar waxes especially including ester waxes such as candelilla wax; hydrophobic silica, in particular hydrophobic silica aerogels such as silica silylates, in particular that sold under the name VM-2270 (Name according to INCI: Silica silylate) by Dow Corning.
[00370] Thus, a composition according to the invention can advantageously comprise as a lipophilic gelling agent at least an organopolysiloxane elastomer or a dextrin ester and / or a particulate gelling agent, in particular chosen from a hydrophobic silica, a clay modified and a wax, and mixtures thereof.
[00371] As non-limiting illustrations of hydrophilic gelling agent (s) / lipophilic gelling agent (s) systems that are more particularly suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made especially of the following systems : polymers or copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid / organopolysiloxane elastomer (s) and / or particulate lipophilic gelling agent (s); associative polymer especially of the polyurethane type / particulate lipophilic gelling agent (s); associative polymer especially of the polyurethane type and / or modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers / particulate lipophilic gelling agent (s); polymers or copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and / or associative polymer especially of polyurethane / organopolysiloxane elastomer (s); polymers of the modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl type / particulate lipophilic gelling agent (s); and modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers / organopolysiloxane elastomer (s).
[00372] Thus, a composition according to the invention can advantageously comprise as hydrophilic gelling agent (s) / lipophilic gelling agent (s) systems, a system chosen from: acid copolymer 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic and hydroxyethyl acrylate / organopolisyloxane elastomer; 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymer combined with a cross-linked sodium polyacrylate / hydrophobic silica combined with an organopolysiloxane elastomer; copolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and hydroxyethyl acrylate / modified clay; copolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and hydroxyethyl acrylate / dextrin ester and wax; associative polyurethane / modified clay; copolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and hydroxyethyl acrylate / polar wax; associative polyurethane / wax; acrylate / C10-C30 alkyl acrylate copolymer combined with an associative polyurethane / modified clay; copolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and hydroxyethyl acrylate combined with an associative polyurethane / organopolysiloxane elastomer; copolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and hydroxyethyl acrylate / hydrophobic silica combined with an organopolysiloxane-2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid elastomer / organopolysiloxane elastomer; polymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid / modified clay; modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers made of sodium polyacrylates / organopolysiloxane elastomer; and modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers made of modified sodium / clay polyacrylates.
[00373] Advantageously, the organopolysiloxane elastomer under consideration as a lipophilic gelling agent is chosen from Dimethicone Crospolymer, Dimethicone (e) Dimethicone Crospolymer, Dimethicone Vinyl Crospolymer, Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crospolymer and Dimethicone Crospolymer. Aqueous Phase
[00374] The aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention comprises water and optionally a water-soluble solvent.
[00375] In the present invention, the term "water-soluble solvent" denotes a compound that is liquid at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility with water greater than 50% by weight at 25 ° C and atmospheric pressure).
[00376] The water-soluble solvents that can be used in the composition of the invention can also be volatile.
[00377] Among the water-soluble solvents that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention can be made especially of lower monoalcohols containing from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycols containing from from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol and dipropylene glycol, C3 and C4 ketones and C2-C4 aldehydes.
[00378] The aqueous phase (water and optionally the water-miscible solvent) can be present in the composition in a content ranging from 5% to 95%, even better from 30% to 80% by weight and preferably from from 40% to 75% by weight with respect to the total weight of said composition.
[00379] According to another variant embodiment, the aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention can comprise at least one C2-C32 polyol.
[00380] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polyol" is to be understood to mean any organic molecule comprising at least two hydroxyl free groups.
[00381] Preferably, a polyol in accordance with the present invention is present in liquid form at room temperature.
[00382] A polyol that is suitable for use in the invention can be a linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated alkyl compound, assuming at least two -OH functions in the alkyl chain, in particular at least three -OH functions and more particularly at least four -OH functions.
[00383] Polyols advantageously suitable for a composition according to the present invention are those exhibiting in particular from 2 to 32 carbon atoms and preferably from 3 to 16 carbon atoms.
[00384] Advantageously, the polyol can be chosen, for example, from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerol, polyglycerols such as glycerol oligomers, for example, diglycerol, and polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof.
[00385] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, said polyol is chosen from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, glycerol, polyglycerols and polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof.
[00386] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention can comprise at least propylene glycol.
[00387] According to another particular embodiment, the composition of the invention can comprise at least glycerol. Oily Phase
[00388] For the purposes of the invention, an oily phase comprises at least one oil.
[00389] The term "oil" means any grease substance that is in liquid form at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.
[00390] An oily phase which is suitable for preparing the cosmetic compositions according to the invention can comprise oils based on hydrocarbons, silicone oils, fluorine oils or non-fluorine oils, or mixtures thereof.
[00391] Oils can be volatile or non-volatile.
[00392] They can be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin. According to a variant modality, oils of plant origin are preferred.
[00393] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "non-volatile oil" means an oil with a vapor pressure less than 0.13 Pa.
[00394] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "silicone oil" is intended to mean an oil comprising at least one silicone atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.
[00395] The term "fluorine oil" means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.
[00396] The term "oil based on hydrocarbon" means an oil mainly containing carbon and hydrogen atoms.
[00397] Oils can optionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms, for example, in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.
[00398] For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" means any oil that is capable of evaporating in contact with the skin in less than an hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound, which is liquid at room temperature, especially having a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10-3 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1,300 Pa (0.01 at 10 mmHg). Volatile Oils
[00399] Volatile oils can be oils based on hydrocarbons or silicone oils.
[00400] Among volatile oils based on hydrocarbons containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, mention can be made especially of branched Cs-Cw alkanes, for example, Cs-Ci6 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane and, for example, oils sold under the names Isopar or Permetill, branched Cs-Cw esters, for example, isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, volatile hydrocarbon based oil is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof, in particular from isododecane, isodecane and isohexadecane, and is especially isohexadecane.
[00401] Mention may also be made of volatile linear alkanes comprising from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular from 10 to 15 carbon atoms and more particularly from 11 to 13 carbon atoms, for example n -dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol under the respective references Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97, and also mixtures thereof, the undecane-tridecane mixture, mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of patent application WO 2008/155 059 by the company Cognis, and mixtures thereof.
[00402] Volatile silicone oils that may be mentioned include volatile linear silicone oils such as hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltretasiloxane, tetradecamethylhexasiloxane, hexadecamethylheptasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane.
[00403] Volatile cyclic silicone oils that may be mentioned include hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane. Non-volatile oils
[00404] Non-volatile oils can be chosen especially from silicone and / or fluorine oils based on non-volatile hydrocarbons.
[00405] Non-volatile oils based on hydrocarbons that may be especially mentioned include: oils based on hydrocarbons of animal origin; oils based on hydrocarbons of plant origin, synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as spirit tipil; synthetic esters, for example, oils of the formula R1COOR2, where Ri represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents the hydrocarbon based chain, which is especially branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, on the condition that R1 + R2> 10. Esters can be chosen especially from fatty alcohol and fatty acid esters, for example, keto stearyl octanoate, these from isopropyl alcohol such as isopropyl myristate or isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters, for example, isostearyl lactate or octyl hydroxyestereate, alkyl or polyalkyl ricinoleatates, for example, hexylopentane laurate, hexane is esterate isodecyl or isotridecyl neopentanoate, and isononanoic acid esters, for example, isononyl isononanoate or isotridecyl isononanoate; polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, for example, dipentaerythrityl tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate; fatty alcohols which are liquid at room temperature, with a branched and / or unsaturated carbon-based chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for example 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol and oleyl alcohol; higher fatty acids C12-C22, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, and mixtures thereof; non-phenyl silicone oils, for example caprylyl methicone, and phenyl silicone oils, for example, phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxidiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxyls with equal or less viscosity or trimethyls with equal or less trimethones at 100 cSt, and trisiloxane pentaphenyl trimethyl, and mixtures thereof; and also mixtures of these various oils.
[00406] Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises volatile and / or non-volatile silicone oils. Such silicone oils are particularly appreciated when the oily gelling agent is an organopolysiloxane polymer.
[00407] A composition according to the invention can comprise from 5% to 95% by weight, even better from 5% to 40% by weight and preferably from 7% to 35% by weight of oil ( s) in relation to the total weight of said composition.
[00408] As mentioned above, the gelled oil phase according to the invention may have a threshold stress greater than 1.5 Pa and preferably greater than 10 Pa. This threshold stress value reflects a gel-like texture of this phase oily. Dyes
[00409] A composition according to the invention can also comprise at least one water-insoluble or water-soluble dye, not particulate or particulate, preferably in a proportion of at least 0.01% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition .
[00410] For known reasons, this amount is subject to vary significantly with respect to the intensity of the desired color effect and the intensity of color provided by the dyes under consideration, and its adjustment is clearly within the competence of a person skilled in the art.
[00411] A composition according to the invention can comprise from 0.01% to 15% by weight, especially from 0.1% to 15% by weight, in particular from 1% to 15% by weight weight and preferably from 5% to 15% by weight of dyes in relation to the total weight of said composition.
[00412] Advantageously, a composition according to the invention can comprise from 0.01% to 25% by weight, especially from 0.1% to 25% by weight, in particular from 1% to 20% % by weight and preferably from 5% to 15% by weight of dyes in relation to the total weight of said composition.
[00413] As mentioned earlier, dyes that are suitable for use in the invention can be water-soluble, but they can also be fat-soluble.
[00414] For the purposes of the invention, the term "water-soluble dyes" means any compound which is generally organic, natural or synthetic, which is soluble in an aqueous phase or water-miscible solvents and which is capable of transmitting color.
[00415] As water-soluble dyes that are suitable for use in the invention, mention can be made especially of synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes, for example FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5, FDC Blue 1, betanine (beet), carmine, copper chlorophylline, methylene blue, anthocyanins ( enocyanine, black carrot, hibiscus and elderberry), caramel and riboflavin.
[00416] Water-soluble tinctures are, for example, beet juice and caramel.
[00417] For the purposes of the invention, the term "fat soluble dye" means any natural or synthetic compound, usually organic, that is soluble in an oily phase or in solvents that are miscible with a grease substance, and that is capable of transmitting color .
[00418] Fat-soluble dyes that are suitable for use in the invention, mention can be made especially of synthetic or natural fat-soluble dyes, for example DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Laranjado 5, Sudan red, carotenes (β-carotene, lycopene), xanthophylls (capsanthin, capsorubin, lutein), palm oil, sudan brown, quinoline yellow, anato and curcumin.
[00419] Particulate dyes can be present in a proportion from 0.01% to 15% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition containing the same.
[00420] They can be especially pigments, nacre and / or particles with metallic paints.
[00421] The term "pigments" should be understood as meaning organic or mineral particles, white or colored that are insoluble in an aqueous solution, which are intended to color and / or opacify the composition containing these.
[00422] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention can comprise from 0.01% to 25% by weight, especially from 0.1% to 25% by weight, in particular from 1% to 20% % by weight and preferably from 5% to 15% by weight of pigments in relation to the total weight of said composition.
[00423] Preferably, when a composition according to the invention is a makeup composition, it can comprise at least 5%, and more preferably at least 10% by weight of pigments in relation to the total weight of said composition.
[00424] Pigments can be organic or mineral, colored or white.
[00425] As mineral pigments that can be used in the invention, mention can be made of titanium oxide, titanium dioxide, zirconium oxide, zirconium dioxide, cerium oxide or cerium dioxide and also zinc oxide, iron oxide or chromium oxide, ferric blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue and chromium hydrate, and mixtures thereof.
[00426] It can also be a pigment having a structure that can be, for example, of the sericite / brown iron oxide / titanium dioxide / silica type. Such a pigment is sold, for example, under the reference Coverleaf NS or JS by the company Chemicals and Catalysts, and has a contrast ratio in the region of 30.
[00427] They can also be pigments having a structure that can be, for example, of the type of silica microsphere containing iron oxide. An example of a pigment having this structure is the product sold by the company Miyoshi under the reference PC Ball PC-LL-100 P, this pigment being made up of silica microspheres containing yellow iron oxide.
[00428] Advantageously, the pigments according to the invention are iron oxides and / or titanium dioxides.
[00429] The term “nacre” should be understood as meaning non-iridescent or iridescent colored particles of any shape, especially produced by certain mollusks in their shell or synthesized in an alternative way, which can have a color effect through optical interference .
[00430] The composition according to the invention can comprise from 0 to 15% by weight of nacres in relation to the total weight of said composition.
[00431] nacres can be chosen from nacreous pigments such as titanium mica coated with iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye and also nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They can also be mica particles on which at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic dyes are superimposed.
[00432] Examples of nacres that can also be mentioned include natural mica coated with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride.
[00433] Among the nacres available on the market, mention can be made of the nacres Timica, Flamenco and Duochrome (based on mica) sold by Engelhard, the Timiron nacars sold by Merck, the nacres based on Prestige mica, sold by company Eckart, and nacres based on synthetic mica Sunshine, sold by the company Sun Chemical.
[00434] Nacres can more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or copper color or color.
[00435] Advantageously, the nacres according to the invention are micas coated with titanium dioxide or with iron oxide, and also bismuth oxychloride.
[00436] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "particles with a metallic paint" means any compound whose nature, size, structure and surface finish allows it to reflect incident light, especially in a non-iridescent manner.
[00437] Particles with a metallic paint that can be used in the invention are in particular chosen from: particles of at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative; particles comprising a monomaterial or multimaterial organic or mineral substrate, at least partially coated with at least one layer with a metallic paint comprising at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative; and mixtures of said particles.
[00438] Among the metals that may be present in said particles, mention can be made, for example, of Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Ni, Sn, Mg, Cr, Mo, Ti, Zr, Pt, Va, Rb , W, Zn, Ge, Te and Se, and mixtures or alloys thereof. Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Zn, Ni, Mo and Cr and mixtures or alloys thereof (for example, bronze and brass) are preferred metals.
[00439] The term "metal derivatives" means compounds derived from metals, especially oxides, fluorides, chlorides and sulfides.
[00440] Illustrations of these particles that can be mentioned include aluminum particles, such as those sold under the names Starbrite 1200 EAC® by the company Siberline and Metalure® by the company Eckart and glass particles coated with metallic layer, especially those described in JP documents -A-09188830, JP-A-10158450, JP-A-10158541, JP-A-07258460 and JP-A-05017710. Hydrophobic treatment of dyes
[00441] Powder dyes as previously described can be totally or partially surface treated, with a hydrophobic agent, to make them more compatible with the oil phase of the composition of the invention, especially so that they can have good wetting capacity with oils. Thus, these treated pigments are dispersed in the oil phase.
[00442] Hydrophobically treated pigments are described especially in EP-A-1 086 683.
[00443] The hydrophobic treatment agent can be chosen from silicones such as methicones, dimethicone and perfluoroalkylsilanes; fatty acids, for example, stearic acid; metal soaps, for example, aluminum dimyristate, the hydrogenated tallow glutamate aluminum salt; perfluoroalkyl phosphates, polyhexafluoropropylene oxides; perfluoropolyether amine acids; amine acids; N-alkamine acids or salts thereof; lecithin, isopropyl triisoestearyl titanate, isostearyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.
[00444] The term "alkyl" mentioned in the compounds cited above, especially means an alkyl group containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably containing from 5 to 16 carbon atoms. Fillers
[00445] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "fillers" should be understood to mean solid colored or white particles in any form, which are in an insoluble or dispersed form in the middle of the composition.
[00446] These fillers, whether synthetic or natural, organic or mineral, give the composition that contains them smoothness and give the makeup result a matte and uniform effect.
[00447] Preferably, a composition of the invention comprises fillers, particularly when it is dedicated to providing a high coverage.
[00448] In particular, a composition according to the invention can comprise from 2% to 35% by weight, especially from 5% to 35% by weight, in particular from 5% to 20% by weight of fillers in relation to the total weight of said composition.
[00449] According to an embodiment of the invention, a composition can comprise solid particles such as pigments and / or fillers.
[00450] Advantageously, a composition according to the invention can comprise from 0.01% to 25% by weight, especially from 0.1% to 25% by weight, in particular from 1% to 20% % by weight and preferably from 5% to 15% by weight of solid particles in relation to the total weight of said composition.
[00451] Preferably, when a composition according to the invention is a make-up composition, it can comprise at least 5%, and more preferably at least 10% by weight of solid particles in relation to the total weight of said composition. Dispersant
[00452] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention can comprise a dispersant.
[00453] Such a dispersant can be a surfactant, an oligomer, a polymer or a mixture of several of these.
[00454] According to a particular embodiment, a dispersant according to the invention is a surfactant. Active agents
[00455] for a particular care application, a composition according to the invention can comprise at least one moisturizer (also known as a humectant).
[00456] Preferably, such moisturizer is glycerol.
[00457] The moisturizer (s) can be present in the composition in a content varying from 0.1% to 15% by weight, especially from 0.5% to 10% by weight or even from from 1% to 6% by weight, based on the total weight of said composition.
[00458] Like other active agents that can be used in the composition of the invention, examples that can be mentioned include vitamins and sunscreens, and mixtures thereof.
[00459] Preferably, the composition of the invention comprises at least one active agent.
[00460] It is a matter of routine for those skilled in the art to adjust the nature and quantity of the additives present in the compositions in accordance with the invention such that the desired cosmetic properties thereof are thus not affected.
[00461] According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention can advantageously be in the form of a base.
[00462] According to one embodiment, the composition of the invention can advantageously be in the form of a composition for making up the skin and especially the face. It can thus be an eye shadow or a face powder.
[00463] According to another embodiment, the composition of the invention can advantageously be in the form of a lip product, in particular a lipstick.
[00464] According to another embodiment, the composition of the invention can advantageously be in the form of a composition to care for the skin of the body or face, in particular the face.
[00465] According to another embodiment, the composition of the invention can be in the form of a product for the eyelids, in particular a mascara.
[00466] Such compositions are specially prepared according to a general knowledge of a person skilled in the art.
[00467] Through the description, including the claims, the term "comprising one" should be understood as being synonymous with "comprising at least one", unless otherwise specified.
[00468] The expressions "between ... and ..." and "varying from ... to ..." should be understood as meaning with included limits, unless otherwise specified.
[00469] The invention is illustrated in greater detail by the examples and figures presented below. Unless otherwise stated, the quantities indicated are expressed as weight percentages.
[00470] Methodology for oscillating dynamic rheology measurements
[00471] These are rheological measurements in the harmonic regime, which measures the elastic modulus.
[00472] Measurements are taken using a Haake RS600 rheometer in a resting product, at 25 ° C with a plate rotor plate 0 60 mm and a gap of 2 mm.
[00473] The measurements in the harmonic regime make it possible to characterize the viscoelastic properties of the products. The technique consists of subjecting a material to a stress that varies sinusoidally over time and measuring the material's response to this stress. In a region where the behavior is linearly viscoelastic (zone where the deformation is proportional to stress), stress (T) and deformation (y) are two sinusoidal time functions that are written as follows: T (t) = To sen (ωt) Y (t) = Yo sen (ωt + δ) where:
[00474] T0 represents the maximum stress amplitude (Pa);
[00475] Y ° represents the maximum amplitude of the deformation (-);
[00476] ω = 2FIN represents the angular frequency (rad.s-i) with N representing the frequency (Hz); and
[00477] δ represents the phase angle of stress in relation to deformation (rad).
[00478] Thus, the two functions have the same angular frequency, but are lagged by an angle δ. According to the phase angle δ between T (t) and y (t), the behavior of the system can be evaluated:
[00479] if δ = 0, the material is purely elastic;
[00480] If δ = FI / 2, the material is purely viscous (Newtonian fluid); and
[00481] If 0 <δ <FI / 2, the material is viscoelastic.
[00482] In general, stress and deformation are described in a complex way: T * (t) = TO θiωt Y * (t) = Yo and (iωt + δ)
[00483] A complex stiffness module, representing an overall resistance of the material to deformation, or is of elastic or viscous origin, is then defined by: G * = T * z Y * = G ’+ iG” where:
[00484] G 'is the storage module or elastic module, which characterizes the energy stored and totally returned in the course of a cycle, G' = (To / YO) COSδ; and
[00485] G ”is a loss module or viscous module, which characterizes the anergy dissipated by internal friction in the course of a cycle, G” = (TO / YO) sen õ.
[00486] The retained parameter is the main stiffness module G * recorded on a plateau measured at a frequency of 1 Hz. Example 1
[00487] Basic formulations according to the invention are prepared from the phases described below. 1) Preparation of aqueous phases
[00488] The aqueous phases are prepared from the following compounds in the weight proportions reported in the following tables. Phase A1:
[00489] Phase A1 gives freshness and luminosity.


[00490] Water, glycerol, butylene glycol, phenoxyethanol and caprylyl glycol are weighed out in a beaker and stirred using a Rayneri stirrer at room temperature.
[00491] The sodium hydroxyethyl acrylate / acrylldimethyltaurate copolymer is added with stirring at room temperature. Stirring is adjusted so as not to incorporate air into the mixture.
[00492] The mixture is stirred moderately for about 10 minutes at room temperature. Phase A2:

[00493] The pigments are crushed in 10% of the aqueous phase with glycerol.
[00494] The other elements are weighed out in a beaker, the crushed material is added to them and the mixture is then stirred with a Rayneri stirrer at room temperature.
[00495] Sodium polyacrylate is added with stirring at room temperature. Stirring is adjusted so as not to incorporate air into the mixture.
[00496] The mixture is stirred moderately for about 10 minutes at room temperature. Phase A3:

[00497] The pigments are crushed in 10% of the aqueous phase with glycerol.
[00498] The other elements are weighed out in a beaker, the crushed material is added to them and the mixture is then stirred with a Rayneri stirrer at room temperature.
[00499] Ammonia polyacrylldimethyltaurate is added with stirring at room temperature. Stirring is adjusted so as not to incorporate air into the mixture.
[00500] The mixture is stirred moderately for about 10 minutes at room temperature. 2) Preparation of the oily phase
[00501] The oily phases are prepared from the following compounds in the weight proportions that follow in the following proportions. Phase B1:

[00502] The oil is introduced into a beaker and stirred with a Rayneri stirrer at room temperature.
[00503] Dimethicone silicone elastomer gel is added with moderate stirring at room temperature.
[00504] The gel slowly hardens.
[00505] The mixture is stirred for 20 minutes. Phase B2:

[00506] The pigments are crushed with 15% of the silicone oil using a three roller mill.
[00507] The crushed material and the remaining oil are placed in a beaker and stirred with a Rayneri stirrer at room temperature.
[00508] Dimethicone silicone elastomer gel is added with moderate stirring at room temperature.
[00509] The gel hardens slowly.
[00510] The mixture is stirred for 20 minutes. Phase B3:


[00511] The pigments are crushed with 15% of the esters using a three-roller mill.
[00512] The crushed material and the remainder of the oil are placed in a beaker and stirred with a Rayneri stirrer at room temperature.
[00513] The bentone gel in isododecane is added and the mixture is then stirred moderately for 20 minutes, during each time the gel slowly hardens at room temperature. Phase B4:

[00514] The pigments are crushed with 15% ester using a three-roller mill.
[00515] The crushed material and the remainder of the oil are placed in a beaker and stirred with a Rayneri stirrer at room temperature.
[00516] Wax and dextrin palmitate are added.
[00517] The mixture is heated at 95 ° C for 25 to 30 minutes.
[00518] The mixture is allowed to cool to room temperature. 3) Preparation of base formulations
[00519] These formulations are obtained by mixing several phases to form the bases in accordance with the invention, in the proportions described below in Table 1.
[00520] The oily and aqueous gels are weighed out and then mixed with a Rayneri shaker.
[00521] The phases comprising waxes / fatty alcohols are unstructured by shaking or using a three-roller mill before mixing.
[00522] The combination of the various phases is established as a function of the desired performance qualities. Table 1

[00523] Formulation 1 is a smooth and uniform looking gel. The formulation penetrates the skin quickly, and is refreshing, light and easy to spread. It is neither oily nor sticky, and has a matte finish. The composition is stable over time, at all temperatures.
[00524] Formulation 2 is creamy and light in application. A leather finish is smooth and powdery. The makeup result is matte and provides coverage. The aqueous gel, present in a proportion of 60%, transmits the luminosity of the formulation. Example 2
[00525] A gloss formulation according to the invention is prepared from the phases described below. 4) Preparation of aqueous phase A1
[00526] The aqueous phase is prepared as mentioned in Example 1. 5) Preparation of oil phase B5
[00527] The oil phase is prepared from the following compounds in the weight proportions listed in the table below. Phase B5:


[00528] The pigments are crushed in octyldodecanol using a three-roller mill.
[00529] The crushed material and the other elements are placed in a beaker and stirred with a Rayneri stirrer at 95 ° C for 25 to 30 minutes.
[00530] The mixture is allowed to cool to room temperature. 6) Preparation of the gloss formulation
[00531] This formulation is obtained by mixing phases A1 and B5 destined to form a shine in accordance with the invention, in the proportions described below in Table 2. Table 2

[00532] The product obtained is a shiny and refreshing shine, which deposits a thin pigmented film on the lips. Example 3
[00533] Care formulations according to the invention are prepared from X phases described below. 7) Preparation of the aqueous phase A4
[00534] The aqueous phase A4 is prepared from the following compounds in weight proportions as in the table below. Phase A4:

[00535] Phase A4 is obtained by mixing at room temperature all the constituents described in the table above except for the cross-linked polyacrylate microspheres and the Dimethicone / vinyl Dimethicone solution.
[00536] After the total dissolution of the constituents in the water, the cross-linked polyacrylate microspheres and the aqueous Dimethicone / vinyl Dimethicone solution are then added to the mixture. 8) Preparation of oil phase B6
[00537] The oil phase is prepared from the following compounds in weight proportions as in the table below. Phase B6:

[00538] Phase B6 is obtained by mixing in a kneader-type mixer, at room temperature, all the constituents described in the table above in the weight proportions specified here, until a homogeneous gel is obtained. 9) Preparation of care formulations 9, 10 and 11
[00539] These formulations are obtained by mixing phases A4 and B6 at room temperature in a Kenwood Chef mechanical kneader equipped with a flexible anchor mixer, in the proportions indicated below in Table 3. Table 3

[00540] Compositions 9 to 11 have properties to soften a micro-relief through optical effects. 10) Characterization of optical properties
[00541] The optical properties of phases A4 and B6 and formulations 9, 10 and 11 are characterized using the measurement of opacity (mask or veil effect) with a commercial “opacity meter” machine.
[00542] The measurements were made according to the following protocol: in a transparent plastic film (Byk), a layer with a wet thickness of 30 pm of the composition whose opacity is desired to evaluate its spreading, using an automatic spreader. It is left to dry for 24 hours in an oven at 30 ° C, and the opacity index is then measured using a Haze Gard Byk Gardner machine.
[00543] The values obtained for phases A4 and B6 are as follows:

[00544] The measured opacity values for formulations 9, 10 and 11 are given in the following table, together with the theoretical values calculated based on the reasons for phases A4 and B6 (for example, the theoretical opacity for formulation 9 is calculated as follows: 0.75x46 + 0.25x93).

[00545] Regardless of the composition, the measured opacity value is significantly higher than the theoretical value predicted by the ratio of the phases in the sample.
[00546] Consequently, the compositions according to the invention show proof of a true synergistic effect. Example 4
[00547] Care formulations according to the invention are prepared from the phases described below. 11) Preparation of aqueous phase A1, A5 and A6
[00548] The aqueous phase A1 is prepared as mentioned in Example 1.
[00549] The aqueous phases A5 and A6 are prepared from the following compounds in weight proportions as in the table below. Phase A5:


[00550] The elements are weighed out in a beaker and the mixture is then stirred with a Rayneri stirrer at room temperature.
[00551] Ammonia polyacrylldimethyltaurate is added with stirring at room temperature. Stirring is adjusted so as not to incorporate air into the mixture.
[00552] The mixture is stirred moderately for about 10 minutes at room temperature. Phase A6:

[00553] The elements are weighed out in a beaker and the mixture is then stirred with a Rayneri stirrer at room temperature.
[00554] Sodium polyacrylate is added with stirring at room temperature. Stirring is adjusted so as not to incorporate air into the mixture.
[00555] The mixture is stirred moderately for about 10 minutes at room temperature. 12) Preparation of oil phase B7 and B8
[00556] The oil phase is prepared from the following compounds in weight proportions as in the table below. Phase B7:
Phase B8:
13) Preparation of care formulations 12, 13, 14, 15, 16 and 17
[00557] These formulations are obtained by mixing phases A1, A5 or A6 with B7 or B8 at room temperature in a Kenwood Chef mechanical kneader equipped with a flexible anchor type stirrer, in the proportions indicated below in Table 4. Table 4

[00558] Compositions 12 to 17 have micro-relief smoothing properties by means of optical effects. 14) Characterization of optical properties
[00559] The optical properties of phases A1, A5, A6, B7 and B8 and formulations 12 to 17 are characterized using opacity measurement (mask or veil effect) with a commercial "opacity meter" machine.
[00560] The measurements were made according to the following protocol detailed in example 3.
[00561] The values obtained for phases A1, A5, A6, B7 and B8 are as follows:

[00562] The measured opacity values for formulations 12 to 17 are given in the following table, together with the theoretical values calculated based on the reasons of phases A1, A5, A6, B7 and B8 (for example, the theoretical opacity for the formulation 12 is calculated as follows: 0.5x1.1 + 0.5x63.9).

[00563] Regardless of the composition, the measured opacity value is significantly higher than the theoretical value predicted by the ratio of the phases in the sample.
[00564] Consequently, the compositions according to the invention show proof of a true synergistic effect. Example 5
[00565] A base in accordance with the self-cleaning invention is prepared from the phases described below. 15) Preparation of the aqueous phase A7 Phase A7:

[00566] The water in phase (2) is weighed and stirred moderately with a Rayneri stirrer. The polymer of phase (2) is weighed in a capsule and slowly added to the water with stirring.
[00567] Phase (2) is allowed to rest for 24 hours at 4 ° C.
[00568] The water of phase (3) is weighed and stirred slowly with a Rayneri stirrer. The phase polymer (2) is weighed in a capsule and slowly added to water with stirring.
[00569] The phase elements (1), except for water, are weighed out in a beaker. The water is then poured at 80 ° C in the elements of phase (1) and moderately stirred with a Rayneri stirrer.
[00570] When the temperature of the mixture (1) is below 40 ° C, phase (2) is poured under moderate stirring. The mixture is allowed to rest for 5 minutes to homogenize it. The phase (3) is then poured into the mixture under moderate stirring and then neutralized with the phase (4). The mixture is allowed to rest for 5 minutes to homogenize it. 16) Preparation of oil phase B9
[00571] The oil phase is prepared from the following compounds in weight proportions as in the table below. Phase B9:

[00572] The pigments are crushed with 15% of the ester using a three-roller mill.
[00573] The crushed material and the remaining oil are placed in a beaker and stirred with a Rayneri stirrer at room temperature.
[00574] The isododecane bentone gel is added and the mixture is then stirred moderately for 20 minutes, during which time the gel slowly hardens at room temperature. 17) Preparation of the self-soothing formulation
[00575] This formulation is obtained by mixing phases A7 and B9 intended to form the formulation in accordance with the invention, in the proportions described in Table 5. Table 5

[00576] The product obtained has a smooth appearance and a shiny mirror-like appearance. The composition has self-soothing properties. The application of the formulation is easy and the deposit is refreshing, light and homogeneous.
[00577] The makeup result is natural, not sticky and thin. Example 6
[00578] A gel-based formulation according to the invention is prepared from the phases described below. 18) Preparation of the aqueous phase A8 Phase A8:


[00579] The elements of phase (1) are weighed in a beaker, and stirred moderately with a Rayneri stirrer.
[00580] The polymers of phase (2) are weighed and sprinkled slowly into the mixture of phase (1) with stirring. Stirring is adjusted by gradually increasing the speed as the gel hardens. After the incorporation of the gelling agents. The mixture is allowed to rest for 10 minutes to homogenize it. 19) Preparation of oil phase B10
[00581] The oil phase is prepared from the following compounds in weight proportions as in the table below. Phase B10:


[00582] The pigments are crushed with 15% of the silicone oil using a three roller mill.
[00583] The crushed material and the remainder of the oil are placed in a beaker and stirred with a Rayneri stirrer at room temperature.
[00584] Dimethicone silicone elastomer gel is added with moderate stirring at room temperature.
[00585] The gel hardens slowly.
[00586] The mixture is stirred for 20 minutes. 20) Preparation of the base gel formulation
[00587] This formulation is obtained by mixing the phases A8 and B10 to form the formulation in accordance with the invention, in the proportions described below in Table 6. Table 6

[00588] The gel base is dense and elastic during adherence of the composition. The application is both refreshing and comfortable. The makeup result is natural, matte, smooth and homogeneous. Example 7
[00589] A blush formulation according to the invention is prepared from the steps described below. 1) Preparation of the aqueous phase A9 Phase A9:

[00590] The elements of phase (1) are weighed in a beaker, and stirred moderately with a Rayneri stirrer.
[00591] The polymers of phase (2) are weighed and pulverized slowly in the mixture of phase (1) with agitation. Stirring is adjusted by gradually increasing the speed as the gel hardens. After the incorporation of the gelling agents, the mixture is allowed to rest for 10 minutes to homogenize it. 2) Preparation of oil phase B11
[00592] The oil phase is prepared from the following compounds in weight proportions as in the table below. Phase B11:


[00593] Dimethicone silicone elastomer gel is added and stirred moderately with a Rayneri Shaker and Dimethicone is added under moderate stirring at room temperature.
[00594] The gel slowly hardens.
[00595] The mixture is stirred for 20 minutes. 3) Preparation of blush formulation
[00596] This formulation is obtained by mixing phases A9 and B11 intended to form the formulation in accordance with the invention, in the proportions described below in Table 7. Table 7

[00597] The obtained blush is very refreshing and easy to apply on the skin. The result is smooth and looks very natural. The leather finish is matte.

权利要求:
Claims (16)
[0001]
1. Cosmetic composition for makeup and / or care for keratin materials, in particular skin and / or lips, characterized by the fact that it comprises: - at least one aqueous phase in the form of a gel with at least one hydrophilic gelling agent synthetic polymeric; and - at least one oily phase in gel form with at least one lipophilic gelling agent chosen from particulate gelling agents, organopolysiloxane elastomers, semicrystalline polymers and dextrin esters, and mixtures thereof; the said phases thus forming a macroscopically homogeneous mixture, in which the composition contains, as a system of hydrophilic gelling agent (s) / lipophilic gelling agent (s), a system chosen from: - copolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and hydroxyethyl acrylate / organopolisyloxane elastomer; - 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymer combined with a cross-linked sodium polyacrylate / hydrophobic silica combined with an organopolysiloxane elastomer; - copolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and hydroxyethyl acrylate / modified clay; - polymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid / organopolysiloxane elastomer; - polymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid / modified clay; - modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers made of sodium polyacrylates / organopolysiloxane elastomer; and - modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers made of modified sodium / clay polyacrylates.
[0002]
Composition according to claim 1, characterized by the fact that it contains at least one dye, preferably present at least in the oily phase in the form of a gel.
[0003]
3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized by the fact that the organopolysiloxane elastomer is chosen from Dimethicone Crospolymer, Dimethicone (e) Dimethicone Crospolymer, Dimethicone Vinyl Crospolymer, Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crospolymer and Crospolymer of Dimethicone-3.
[0004]
Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, characterized in that it contains the aqueous phase and the oil phase in an aqueous phase / oil phase weight ratio from 95/5 to 5/95, preferably from 30/70 to 80/20, especially varying from 60/40 to 80/20, preferably ranging from 60/40 to 70/30 and more preferably 60/40 or 70/30.
[0005]
Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it is in the form of a foundation, a face powder, an eye shadow, a lipstick, mascara and / or a care composition.
[0006]
Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it further comprises solid particles such as pigments and / or fillers.
[0007]
Composition according to Claim 6, characterized in that it comprises from 0.01% to 25% by weight, especially from 0.1% to 25% by weight, in particular from 1% to 20% by weight and preferably from 5% to 15% by weight of solid particles in relation to the total weight of said composition.
[0008]
Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that it further comprises volatile and / or non-volatile silicone oils.
[0009]
Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that it further comprises a moisturizer, and preferably glycerol.
[0010]
10. Process for preparing a cosmetic composition for makeup and / or care for keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or lips, characterized by the fact that it comprises at least one step to mix: - at least one aqueous phase in form gel with at least one synthetic polymeric hydrophilic gelling agent; and - at least one oily phase in gel form with at least one lipophilic gelling agent chosen from particulate gelling agents, organopolysiloxane elastomers, semicrystalline polymers and dextrin esters, and mixtures thereof; under conditions suitable for obtaining a macroscopically homogeneous mixture, in which the composition contains, as a system of hydrophilic gelling agent (s) / lipophilic gelling agent (s), a system chosen from: - copolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and hydroxyethyl acrylate / organopolysiloxane elastomer; - 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymer combined with a cross-linked sodium polyacrylate / hydrophobic silica combined with an organopolysiloxane elastomer; - copolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and hydroxyethyl acrylate / modified clay; - polymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid / organopolysiloxane elastomer; - polymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid / modified clay; - modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers made of sodium polyacrylates / organopolysiloxane elastomer; and - modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers made of modified sodium / clay polyacrylates.
[0011]
Process according to claim 10, characterized in that it comprises a step for mixing at least three or even more phases in gel form.
[0012]
12. Process according to claims 10 and 11, characterized by the fact that the mixture is performed at room temperature.
[0013]
13. Cosmetic kit for makeup and / or care for keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or lips, characterized by the fact that it comprises, in separate containers, at least one aqueous phase in the form of a gel with at least one agent of synthetic polymeric hydrophilic gelling, and at least one oily phase in gel form with at least one lipophilic gelling agent chosen from particulate gelling agents, organopolysiloxane elastomers, semicrystalline polymers and dextrin esters, and mixtures thereof, and also instructions to use extemporaneous mixtures, where the hydrophilic gelling agent (s) / lipophilic gelling agent (s) system is a system chosen from: - 2-acrylamido-2- acid copolymer methylpropanesulfonic and hydroxyethyl acrylate / organopolisyloxane elastomer; - 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymer combined with a cross-linked sodium polyacrylate / hydrophobic silica combined with an organopolysiloxane elastomer; - copolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and hydroxyethyl acrylate / modified clay; - polymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid / organopolysiloxane elastomer; - polymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid / modified clay; - modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers made of sodium polyacrylates / organopolysiloxane elastomer; and - modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers made of modified sodium / clay polyacrylates.
[0014]
14. Device for makeup and / or care for keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or lips, characterized by the fact that it comprises at least: - two separate containers containing, respectively, an aqueous phase in the form of gel with hair at least one synthetic polymeric hydrophilic gelling agent, and at least one oily gel-like phase with at least one lipophilic gelling agent chosen from particulate gelling agents, organopolysiloxane elastomers, semicrystalline polymers and dextrin esters, and mixtures thereof; - a separate chamber for mixing said containers, comprising an opening configured to allow the introduction of said phases to be mixed; and - a means for delivering a macroscopically homogeneous mixture of the two phases, in which the hydrophilic gelling agent (s) / lipophilic gelling agent (s) is a system chosen from: - copolymer 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and hydroxyethyl acrylate / organopolysiloxane elastomer; - 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymer combined with a cross-linked sodium polyacrylate / hydrophobic silica combined with an organopolysiloxane elastomer; - copolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and hydroxyethyl acrylate / modified clay; - polymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid / organopolysiloxane elastomer; - polymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid / modified clay; - modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers made of sodium polyacrylates / organopolysiloxane elastomer; and - modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers made of modified sodium / clay polyacrylates.
[0015]
15. Cosmetic process for makeup and / or care for keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or lips, characterized by the fact that it comprises at least one step which consists of applying, to the said keratin material, a composition as defined in any of claims 1 to 9.
[0016]
16. Cosmetic process for makeup and / or care for keratin material, in particular the skin and / or lips, characterized by the fact that it comprises at least the application to said material of a composition, in particular a macroscopically homogeneous composition obtained by extemporaneous mixing, prior to application or at the time of application to said keratin material, of at least one gel-like aqueous phase with at least one synthetic polymeric hydrophilic gelling agent, and at least one gel-like oil phase with at least least one lipophilic gelling agent chosen from particulate gelling agents, organopolysiloxane elastomers, semicrystalline polymers and dextrin esters, and mixtures thereof, in which the hydrophilic gelling agent (s) / agent (s) system lipophilic gelation (s) is a system chosen from: - copolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and hydroxyethyl acrylate / elastome organopolysiloxane; - 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymer combined with a cross-linked sodium polyacrylate / hydrophobic silica combined with an organopolysiloxane elastomer; - copolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and hydroxyethyl acrylate / modified clay; - polymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid / organopolysiloxane elastomer; - polymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid / modified clay; - modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers made of sodium polyacrylates / organopolysiloxane elastomer; and modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers made of modified sodium / clay polyacrylates.

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同族专利:

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公开号 | 公开日

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EP3473233A1|2019-04-24|

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KR20150121211A|2015-10-28|

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FR3002449B1|2015-04-03|

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CN105142598A|2015-12-09|

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KR102250031B1|2021-05-07|

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CN105142598B|2019-04-12|

---

BR112015020859A2|2017-07-18|

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EP2958541B1|2018-12-26|

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ES2714099T3|2019-05-27|

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EP2958541A1|2015-12-30|

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JP2016509052A|2016-03-24|

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FR3002449A1|2014-08-29|

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WO2014128680A1|2014-08-28|

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JP6499088B2|2019-04-10|

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US20160000663A1|2016-01-07|

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US10238584B2|2019-03-26|

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法律状态:
2018-02-27| B06F| Objections, documents and/or translations needed after an examination request according [chapter 6.6 patent gazette]|

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2019-07-23| B06U| Preliminary requirement: requests with searches performed by other patent offices: procedure suspended [chapter 6.21 patent gazette]|

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2020-02-11| B06A| Notification to applicant to reply to the report for non-patentability or inadequacy of the application [chapter 6.1 patent gazette]|

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2020-05-26| B09A| Decision: intention to grant [chapter 9.1 patent gazette]|

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2020-11-10| B16A| Patent or certificate of addition of invention granted|Free format text: PRAZO DE VALIDADE: 20 (VINTE) ANOS CONTADOS A PARTIR DE 25/02/2014, OBSERVADAS AS CONDICOES LEGAIS. |

优先权:

---

申请号 | 申请日 | 专利标题

---

FR1300432A|FR3002449B1|2013-02-25|2013-02-25|COSMETIC COMPOSITION OF GEL TYPE|

---

FR1300432|2013-02-25|

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PCT/IB2014/059240|WO2014128680A1|2013-02-25|2014-02-25|Gel-type cosmetic composition|

---