use of a compound

专利摘要:
1/1 summary "use of a compound" describes a composition and a process for straightening hair. the process includes coating the keratin fibers with a composition comprising a thermally activated agent and contacting the coated keratin fibers with a heating device at a temperature of at least 185 ° C for a time sufficient to modify the keratin fibers . the thermally activated agent comprises a heterocyclic compound containing two heteroatoms selected from nitrogen and oxygen in a 5- or 6-membered ring, such as a cyclic alkylene carbonate.
公开号:BR112015018706B1
申请号:R112015018706
申请日:2014-02-03
公开日:2020-04-22
发明作者:J Mcguiness Mark；Kadir Murat
申请人:Lubrizol Advanced Mat Inc；
IPC主号:

专利说明:

(54) Title: USE OF A COMPOUND (51) Int.CI .: A61K 8/49; A61Q 5/04; A61Q 5/06.
(30) Unionist Priority: 06/02/2013 US 61 / 761,326.
(73) Holder (s): LUBRIZOL ADVANCED MATERIALS, INC ..
(72) Inventor (s): MURAT KADIR; MARK J. MCGUINESS.
(86) PCT Application: PCT US2014014409 of 02/03/2014 (87) PCT Publication: WO 2014/123805 of 08/14/2014 (85) Date of the Beginning of the National Phase: 08/04/2015 (57) Summary: 1/1 SUMMARY “USE OF A COMPOUND” A composition and a process for straightening hair are described. The process includes coating the keratin fibers with a composition comprising a thermally activated agent and contacting the coated keratin fibers with a heating device at a temperature of at least 185 ° C for sufficient time to modify the keratin fibers . The agent comprises a thermally activated heterocÃ-cyclic compound containing two heteroÃitomos selected nitrogà ^the nio and ^the oxigà nio in a 5 or 6 membered ring, such as CA-cyclic alkylene carbonate.
1/50 “USE OF A COMPOUND”
FUNDAMENTALS [001] The exemplary modality refers to a method for straightening hair by applying heat and to a composition that can be activated by heat comprising a heterocyclic compound containing two heteroatoms selected from nitrogen and oxygen in a 5- or 6-membered ring, such as a cyclic alkylene carbonate.
[002] Various methods are available for semi-permanent and permanent hair straightening that can keep the hair in a modified state during several washes. Many of the permanent treatment methods make use of harsh chemicals that can be dangerous to those who perform and receive treatment or emit unpleasant odors. Some of these methods are based on the cleavage of the covalent bonds of cystine disulfide that are present in keratin. In one method, the disulfide bonds are first broken with a reducing agent. Then a fixative, such as hydrogen peroxide, is applied while the hair is under tension to reconstitute the disulfide bonds in a different arrangement. Peroxide can cause damage to hair and scalp. Other methods use a hydroxide base that replaces the disulfide bonds (-CH2-SS-CH2-) with lanthionine bonds (-CH2-SCH2-) in a two-stage process using a hydroxide ion in the first step and a thiol group on Monday. Hydroxide is used in fairly high concentrations and can cause scalp burning, irritation or damage to the eyes and nose. Thiols leave the hair with an unpleasant odor and can lead to the degradation of hair fibers.
[003] Semi-permanent methods use a cross-linking agent to form bonds while the hair is heated. Formaldehyde, for example, is used in many commercial straightening products, as an ingredient in the composition or as a reaction product that is formed in the heating of the hair. However, it can cause allergic reactions to the skin, eyes and lungs, can cause severe damage to the eyes, and presents other health risks. The use of formaldehyde in hair straightening compositions has been discouraged or banned in some countries, but remains in widespread use due to its effectiveness. Relaxation compositions including a denaturing agent such as urea have also been proposed. However, although urea is less caustic than a hydroxide-based composition, it can decompose into ammonia and poisonous isocyanic acid at the high temperatures used for thermal hair straightening.
BRIEF DESCRIPTION [004] According to an aspect of the exemplary embodiment, a process for straightening hair includes coating the keratin fibers with a composition comprising a thermally activated agent and contacting the keratin fibers coated with a heating device at a hair temperature 185 ° C for a sufficient time to modify the keratin fibers. The thermally activated agent has the general formula of Structure (I):
O
A ^ O
XY ⁿ Structure (I) where:
A is selected from N and O;
R and R 'are independently selected from H, CH3, CH2CH3 and CH2OH;
X and Y are independently selected from H and alkyl; and n = 0 or 1.
[005] In another aspect, a hair straightening composition includes a solvent and at least 15% by weight of a thermally activated agent / 50, the thermally activated agent having the general formula of Structure (I):
O
A ^ O
XY ⁿ Structure (I) where:
A is selected from N and O;
R and R 'are independently selected from H, CH ₃ , CH2CH3 and CH2OH;
X and Y are independently selected from H and alkyl; and n = 0 or 1; and at least one of a cationic surfactant and a rheology modifier, the composition having a pH of less than 7.5 and a viscosity of at least 400 cps.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION [006] The aspects of the exemplary modality refer to a semi-permanent hair straightening composition and method of use. The exemplary composition includes at least one thermally activated agent which can be present in total in up to 95% by weight or up to 70% by weight of the composition and can also include a solvent / diluent in which the thermally activated agent is soluble or dispersible. . By "termically activated" is intended that the agent can be activated by heat, as in a hair straightening process, although the term is not intended to be considered as limiting the agent's mode of operation in the composition. The composition can be in the form of a liquid, cream, mousse, gel, spray, or the like.
[007] In another aspect, a process for smoothing keratin fibers, such as human hair, includes contacting the keratin fibers with the exemplary composition to coat the fibers, keeping the keratin fibers in contact with the composition for a while enough to smooth out when the fibers are heated, and optionally drying the fibers to remove at least some of the solvent. The keratin fibers, coated with the composition, are contacted with a surface of a heating device, such as a board, having a temperature of 185 to 230 ° C for a time sufficient to relax the keratin fibers, for example, reaching if the glass transition temperature, which can vary, up to a few degrees, depending on the moisture content. Relaxation generally results in an increase in the average length of the keratin fibers, as measured when a tuft of the coiled fibers is suspended from a support of at least 5% or at least 10%, which can be maintained during various washing treatments. hair (involving shampooing and drying hair), such as at least 10 or at least 20 washes. The exemplary process is semi-permanent in which, over time, the smoothed fibers begin to return to their original, curly state. Although the method can be used to form very straight hair, it can also be used in a process in which a semi-permanent wave is created.
[008] The thermally activated agent used in the composition and semi-permanent hair straightening process is a heterocyclic compound having the general formula shown as Structure (I):
O
A ^ O
XY ⁿ Structure (I) where
A is selected from N (nitrogen) and O (oxygen);
R and R 'are independently selected from H, CH3, CH2CH3 and CH2OH;
X and Y are independently selected from H and alkyl, such as a C1-C6 or C1-C3 alkyl group, such as CH ₃ ; e / 50 n = 0 or 1.
[009] In one embodiment, A = O. The structure thus represents an alkylene carbonate.
[0010] In one mode, at least one of R and R '= H. In another mode, both R and R' = H.
[0011] In one embodiment, n = 0, that is, the structure represents a five-membered ring of the general formula shown as Structure (II):
O
A ^ O ^R ^ ^ R 'Structure (II) where A, R and R' are as defined above.
[0012] As an example, alkylene carbonate can be of the general form of Structure (III):

^R Structure (III) where R is as above.
[0013] Five-membered alkylene carbonates (1,3-dioxolan-2ones), such as ethylene carbonate ("EC", where R and R '= H), propylene carbonate (R = CH3 and R' = H ), butylene carbonate (where R = CH2CH3 and R '= H or where R = CH ₃ and R' = CH ₃ ), and glycerol carbonate (R = CH2OH and R '= H) are exemplary thermally activated agents useful here .
[0014] In a modality, when n = 1, at least one or both X and Y = H.
[0015] The six-membered alkylene carbonates (1,3-dioxan-2ones) useful here include trimethylene carbonate (X and Y = H, R and R '= H). Exemplary thermally activated agents where A = N include 2oxazolidinone (R and R '= H, n = 0) and derivatives thereof.
[0016] The exemplary thermally activated agent (s) according to / 50 with structure (I) are small molecules (MW <800 g / mol, or <600 g / mol, such as <200 g / mol) instead of oligomeric compounds or polymers (> 1000 g / mol). They are compatible and stable in water, capable of penetrating and reacting with keratinous materials, and can be activated by a straight or round board at <210 ° C.
[0017] The compounds of Structure (I), such as alkylene carbonates, are particularly suitable for exemplary application since they generally have low toxicity and do not form toxic by-products during the heating stage. They are also highly soluble in water at room temperature (25 ° C), with ethylene carbonate being highly soluble (concentrations above 50% by weight in water being easily practicable) and propylene carbonate being soluble in smaller amounts (up to about 20% by weight).
[0018] In one embodiment, the thermally activated agent (s) according to structure (I) is / are present in the straightening composition in a concentration of at least 5% by weight, or at least 7% by weight, or at least 10% by weight, or at least 12% by weight, or at least 15% by weight, or at least 18% by weight, and in some embodiments, the thermally activated agent is present in the composition smoothing at a concentration of up to 95% by weight, or up to 70% by weight, or up to 55% by weight, or up to 50% by weight, or up to 40% by weight, or up to 35% by weight, or up to 30 % by weight. In the example formulations disclosed herein, the thermally activated agent is selected from ethylene carbonate (1,3dioxolan-2-one), propylene carbonate, glycerol carbonate, trimethylene carbonate, 2-oxazolidinone and combinations thereof. In such cases, the suitably thermally activated agent may be present in the composition in a total concentration of 10 to 40% by weight, or at least 15% by weight.
[0019] In one embodiment, the thermally activated agent includes / 50 a mixture of ethylene carbonate and propylene carbonate in a weight ratio of 95/5 to 5/95, such as at least 10/90. In such embodiments, propylene carbonate can replace some or all of the other solvents used in the composition.
[0020] Alkylene carbonates suitable for use here are available from Huntsman Corporation under the brand name JEFFSOL® alkylene carbonates. JEFFSOL ethylene carbonate is solid at room temperature. JEFFSOL EC-75, EC-50, and EC-25 are mixtures of ethylene carbonate and propylene carbonate JEFFSOL in the ratios of 75/25, 50/50 and 25/75 by weight, respectively. These mixtures are liquid at room temperature. As sold, these products are said to be at least 99.8% pure. Higher purity versions are also available.
[0021] U.S. Patent No. 2,873,282 describes methods for making alkylene carbonates by reacting an alkylene oxide or compound thereof with carbon dioxide. U.S. Patent No. 2,773,070 describes similar methods. Typically, an alkylammonium halide catalyst such as tetraethylammonium bromide is used. Glycerol (glycerin) carbonate (GC) is commercially available and can be synthesized by reacting glycerin with a carbonate source such as phosgene, a dialkyl carbonate, or an alkylene carbonate; by the reaction of glycerin with urea, carbon dioxide, and oxygen; or by reacting carbon dioxide with glycidol.
[0022] In one embodiment, the composition (and treatment process described herein) is free or substantially free (less than 1% by weight, such as less than 0.1% by weight) of thermally activated agents / cross-linking other than those of Structure (I). In the exemplary embodiment, the thermally activated agent (s) of Structure (I) is the only thermally activated agent. In particular, the composition and method are free or substantially free of formaldehyde. The method and composition / 50 specimens do not use any formaldehyde either directly, in the composition, or through the reaction, during the method, of any of the sources of formaldehyde. Similarly, the composition and process can be free or substantially free of glyoxylic acid, urea, and derivatives thereof, which can decompose to form irritants.
[0023] In one embodiment, the composition (and treatment process described herein) is free or substantially free (less than 1% by weight, or less than 0.1% by weight, or less than 0.01% by weight) of compounds containing the cyclic mercapto group (thiol). Compounds containing the cyclic mercapto group are cyclic compounds containing an S-H group attached directly to a carbon atom in the ring. In one embodiment the composition (and the treatment method described herein) is free or substantially free (less than 1% by weight, such as less than 0.1% by weight) of all compounds containing thiol groups, including compounds containing aliphatic and cyclic thiol group.
[0024] In one embodiment, the composition and process are free or substantially free (less than 1% by weight, or less than 0.1% by weight, or less than 0.01% by weight) of sulfites that they can break the bisulfite bond in the keratin fibers (which are typically used in permanent wavy compositions).
Solvent / diluent [0025] In addition to the one or more thermally activated agents present, the composition may include a solvent in which the thermally activated agent (s) is soluble / dispersible (s) . The solvent can be selected from water, and combinations of it. Specific examples include water and / or ethanol.
[0026] The composition can be prepared as water-free or water-based formulations, and formulations containing solvents and / or water-miscible auxiliary diluents are also considered.
/ 50 [0027] The useful solvents commonly used are typically liquid, such as water (deionized, distilled or purified), alcohols, such as aliphatic and aromatic C1-C10 alcohols (including diols and triols, such as glycols, for example, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, and glycerin), polyols, and the like, and mixtures thereof.
[0028] Examples of solvents, other than water, include straight and branched alcohols, such as ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, hexanol, and the like; and aromatic alcohols, such as benzyl alcohol, cyclohexanol, and the like. Non-limiting examples of polyols include polyhydroxy alcohols, such as glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, C2 to C4 alkoxylated alcohols and C2 to C4 alkoxylated polyols, such as ethoxylated, propoxylated ethers, and alcohol butoxylates, diols, and polyols having from about 2 to about 30 carbon atoms and from 1 to about 40 units of alkoxy, polypropylene glycol, polybutylene glycol, and the like. Other examples of non-aqueous solvents or diluents include silicones, and silicone derivatives, such as cyclomethicone, and the like, ketones such as acetone and methyl ethyl ketone; natural and synthetic oils and waxes, such as vegetable oils, plant oils, animal oils, essential oils, mineral oils, C7 to C40 isoparaffins, alkyl carboxylic esters, such as ethyl acetate, amyl acetate, ethyl lactate, and the like, jojoba oil, shark liver oil, and the like. Some of the foregoing non-aqueous auxiliary solvents or thinners can also serve as conditioners and emulsifiers. For the purposes of computing a weight basis in the composition, however, all liquids listed in this section are considered to be solvents / diluents.
PH modifiers [0029] The pH of the composition can be from 1.5 to 9.5, for example, at least 4.5, or at least 5.5. In some embodiments, the pH is up to 8.5, or up to 7.5, or up to 6.5. To provide the selected pH, the composition may include one or more pH modifiers selected from organic and inorganic acids and bases.
[0030] The pH of the composition can be adjusted with any combination of acidic and / or basic pH adjusting agents known in the art. Acid materials include organic acids and inorganic acids, in particular, monocarboxylic acids, dicarboxylic acids, and tricarboxylic acids, for example, acetic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, alpha-hydroxy acids, beta-hydroxy acids, salicylic acid, lactic acid , malic acid, glycolic acid, amino acids, and natural fruit acids, or inorganic acids, for example, hydrochloric acid, nitric acid, sulfuric acid, sulfamic acid, phosphoric acid, and combinations thereof.
[0031] Basic materials include inorganic and organic bases, and combinations thereof. Examples of inorganic bases include but are not limited to alkali metal hydroxides (especially sodium, potassium and ammonium), and alkali metal salts such as sodium borate (borax), sodium phosphate, sodium pyrophosphate, and the like; and mixtures thereof. Examples of organic bases include triethanolamine (TEA), diisopropanolamine, triisopropanolamine, aminomethyl propanol, dodecylamine, cocamine, oleamine, morpholine, triamylamine, triethylamine, tetracis (hydroxypropyl) ethylenediamine, L-arginine, aminomethyl propanol, 2-amino-tromethamine hydroxymethyl-1,3-propanediol), and PEG-15 cocamine.
[0032] Such pH modifiers can be present from 0.0001% by weight to 50% by weight, based on the active component.
Auxiliary Components of the Composition [0033] The composition may include one or more auxiliary components, such as rheology modifiers, surfactants, emulsifiers, conditioning agents, humectants, emollients, preservatives, chelating agents, propellants, fragrance, botanical products, hair fixing agents , dyes, combinations thereof, and the like.
/ 50
Rheology Modifiers [0034] To provide a composition that adheres well to the hair fibers, the composition can include a rheology modifier that increases the overall viscosity of the composition. The viscosity of the composition, when applied to the hair, can be at least 400 cPs, or at least 1000 cPs, or at least 2000 cPs, or at least 3000 cPs, and can be up to 10,000 cPs.
[0035] To increase viscosity, the composition can include one or more rheology modifiers, which can be synthetic or natural.
[0036] Examples include fatty alcohols, such as C10-C32 alcohols, for example, C12-C22 alcohols, natural oils, and polymers of acrylic and / or methacrylic acid, acid such as carbomers. Exemplary natural oils include mineral oils (mainly C15-C40 straight and branched aliphatic alkanes, with smaller amounts of cycloalkanes), which can be sold as liquid paraffin.
[0037] Exemplary synthetic rheology modifiers include polymers and copolymers based on acrylic. One class of acrylic-based rheology modifiers are the alkali-intumescible, alkali-soluble carboxyl functional thickeners (ASTs) produced by the free radical polymerization of acrylic acid alone or in combination with other ethylenically unsaturated monomers. Polymers can be synthesized by solvent / precipitation as well as emulsion polymerization techniques. Exemplary synthetic rheology modifiers of this class include homopolymers of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid and polymerized copolymers of one or more acrylic acid monomers, substituted acrylic acid and C1-C30 alkyl salts and esters of acrylic acid and substituted acrylic acid. As defined herein, the substituted acrylic acid contains a substituent positioned on the alpha and / or beta carbon atom of the molecule, where in one aspect the substituent is independently selected from alkyl / 50
C1-4, -CN, and -COOH. Optionally, other ethylenically unsaturated monomers such as, for example, styrene, vinyl acetate, ethylene, butadiene, acrylonitrile, as well as mixtures thereof, can be copolymerized in the main chain. The preceding polymers are optionally cross-linked by a monomer that contains two or more moieties that contain ethylenic unsaturation. In one aspect, the crosslinker is selected from a polyalkenyl polyether of a polyhydric alcohol containing at least two alkenyl ether groups per molecule. Other exemplary crosslinkers are selected from sucrose allyl ethers and pentaerythritol allyl ethers, and mixtures thereof. These polymers are more fully described in U.S. Patent No. 5,087,445, U.S. Patent No. 4,509,949, and U.S. Pat. No. 2,798,053.
[0038] In one aspect, the AST rheology modifier or thickener is a crosslinked homopolymer polymerized from acrylic acid or methacrylic acid and is generally alluded to under the name INCI Carbomer. Commercially available Carbomers include the Carbopol ^® 934, 940, 941, 956, 980, and 996 polymers available from Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc. In another aspect, the rheology modifier is selected from a crosslinked polymer copolymer of a selected first monomer of one or more acrylic acid monomers, substituted acrylic acid, salts of acrylic acid and salts of substituted acrylic acid and a second monomer selected from one or more C10-C30 alkyl acrylate esters of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid. In one aspect, monomers can be polymerized in the presence of a steric stabilizer as disclosed in US Patent No. 5,288,814 which is incorporated herein by reference. Some of the preceding polymers are designated under the INCI nomenclature as Acrylate / Alkyl Acrylate Cross Polymer C10-30 and are commercially available under the trade names Carbopol ^® 1342 and 1382, Carbopol ^® Ultrez 20 and 21, Carbopol ^® ETD 2020 and Pemulen ^® TR-1 and TR-2 da / 50
Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc.
[0039] In another aspect, the auxiliary rheology modifier can be a crosslinked, linear poly (vinyl amide / acrylic acid) copolymer as disclosed in U.S. Patent No. 7,205,271, the disclosure of which is incorporated herein by reference.
[0040] Another class of synthetic rheology modifiers suitable for use in the composition includes hydrophobically modified ASTs, usually referred to as hydrophobically modified emulsion polymers swelling in alkali and soluble in alkali (HASE). Typical HASE polymers are free radical addition polymers polymerized from pH-sensitive or hydrophilic monomers (for example, acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid), hydrophobic monomers (for example, C1-C30 alkyl esters of acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid, aerilonitrile, styrene), an "associative monomer", and an optional crosslinking monomer. The associative monomer comprises a final ethylenically unsaturated polymerizable group, a non-ionic hydrophilic intermediate section that is terminated by a final hydrophobic group. The non-ionic hydrophilic intermediate section comprises a polyoxyalkylene group, for example, polyethylene oxide, polypropylene oxide, or mixtures of polyethylene oxide / polypropylene oxide segments. The final hydrophobic end group is typically a C8-C40 aliphatic moiety. Exemplary aliphatic moieties are selected from straight and branched alkyl substituents, straight and branched alkenyl substituents, carbocyclic substituents, aryl substituents, aralkyl substituents, arylalkyl substituents, and alkylaryl substituents. In one aspect, associative monomers can be prepared by condensing (for example, esterification or etherification) a polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated aliphatic alcohol (typically containing a branched or unbranched C8-C40 aliphatic moiety) with an ethylenically unsaturated monomer containing / 50 a group of carboxylic acid (for example, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid), an unsaturated cyclic anhydride monomer (for example, maleic anhydride, itaconic anhydride, citraconic anhydride), a monoethylenically unsaturated monoisocyanate (for example, α, α isocyanate -dimethyl-m-isopropenyl benzyl) or an ethylenically unsaturated monomer containing a hydroxyl group (for example, vinyl alcohol, allyl alcohol). The polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated aliphatic alcohols are adducts of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide of a monoalcohol containing the C8-C40 aliphatic portion. Non-limiting examples of alcohols containing a C8-C40 aliphatic moiety are caprylic alcohol, iso-octyl alcohol (2-ethyl hexanol), pelargonic alcohol (1-nonanol), decyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol (mixture of C16-C18 monoalcohols), stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, beyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol, ceryl alcohol, montanyl alcohol, melissyl alcohol, lacceryl alcohol, gedyl alcohol, and alkyl substituted phenols C2-C20 (e.g., nonyl phenol), and the like.
[0041] Exemplary HASE polymers are disclosed in US Patent Nos. 3,657,175, 4,384,096, 4,464,524, 4,801,671, and 5,292,843. In addition, an extensive review of HASE polymers is found in Gregory D. Shay, Chapter 25, “Alkali-Swellable and Alkali-Soluble Thickener Technology A Review”, Polymers in Aqueous Media Performance Through Association, Advances in Chemistry Series 223, J. Edward Glass (ed.), ACS, pp. 457-494, Division Polymeric Materials, Washington, DC (1989), the relevant disclosures of which are hereby incorporated by reference. Commercially available HASE polymers are sold under the trade names, Aculyn ^® 22 (INCI name: Acrylate Copolymer / Stearet-20 Methacrylate), Aculyn ^® 44 (INCI name: PEG-150 Copolymer / Decyl Alcohol / SMDI), Aculyn 46 ^® (INCI name:
/ 50
Copolymer of PEG-150 / Stearyl Alcohol / SMDI), and Aculyn® 88 (INCI name: Acrylate crossed polymer / Stearet-20 methacrylate) from Rohm & Haas, and Novetix® L-10 (INCI name: Acrylates Copolymer / Behenet-25 methacrylate) from Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc.
[0042] In another embodiment, acid-swellable associative polymers can be used with the hydrophobically modified cationic polymers of the present invention. Such polymers generally have cationic and associative characteristics. These polymers are free radical addition polymers polymerized from a monomer mixture comprising a hydrophilic monomer substituted by an acid sensitive amino (e.g., dialkylamino alkyl (meth) acrylates or (meth) acrylamides), an associative monomer (here defined above), a lower alkyl (meth) acrylate or other free radical polymerizable comonomers selected from hydroxyalkyl esters of (meth) acrylic acid, polyethylene glycol vinyl and / or allyl ethers, polyethylene glycol vinyl and / or allyl ethers, polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol vinyl and / or allylic ethers, (meth) acrylic acid polyethylene glycol esters, (meth) acrylic acid polypropylene glycol esters, (meth) acrylic acid polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol esters, and combinations thereof. These polymers can optionally be cross-linked. By acid sensitive it is intended that the amino substituent becomes cationic at low pH values, typically ranging from 0.5 to 6.5. Exemplary acid-swellable associative polymers are commercially available under the brand name Structure ^® Plus (INCI name: Acrylates / Aminoacrylates / Alkyl C10-C30 PEG-20) from Akzo Nobel, and Carbopol® Aqua CC (INCI name: Polymer Cross) of Polyacrylates-1) from Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc. In one aspect, the acid-swellable polymer is a copolymer of one or more C1-C5 alkyl esters of (meth) acrylic acid, C1-C4 dialkyl methacrylate C1- amino alkyl C6, allyl ether
16/50 PEG / PPG-30/5, PEG 20-25 C10-C30 alkyl ether methacrylate, C2-C6 alkyl hydroxy methacrylate cross-linked with ethylene glycol dimethacrylate. Other associative polymers swellable in useful acids are disclosed in U.S. Patent No. 7,378,479.
[0043] Hydrophobically modified alkoxylated methyl glycosides, such as, for example, PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate, PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Trioleate, and PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquiestearate, available from Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc., under the trade names, Glucamate® DOE-120, Glucamate® LT, and Glucamate® SSE-20, respectively, are also suitable as rheology modifiers.
[0044] Polysaccharides obtained from tree and bush exudates, such as gum arabic, gum gahatti, and gum tragacanth, as well as pectin; seaweed extracts, such as alginates and carrageenans (for example, lambda, cover, iota, and salts thereof); algae extracts, such as agar; microbial polysaccharides, such as xanthan, gelan, and velana; cellulose ethers, such as ethylhexylethylcellulose, hydroxybutylmethylcellulose, hydroxyethylmethylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, methylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, and hydroxypropylcellulose; polygalactomannans, such as fenugreek gum, cassia gum, locust bean gum, tara gum, and guar gum; starches, such as corn starch, tapioca starch, rice starch, wheat starch, potato starch and sorghum starch can also be used in the compositions here as suitable rheology modifiers.
[0045] The rheology modifier (s) can be used alone or in combination and can be present in the composition, on an asset basis, in an total concentration of 0.001 to 50% by weight, for example, at least 0.1% by weight, or at least 1% by weight, such as up to 20% by weight, or up to 10% by weight%, or up to 3 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
/ 50
Surfactants [0046] The composition can also include one or more surfactants, such as anionic, cationic, amphoteric, and non-ionic surfactants, as well as mixtures thereof.
[0047] The cationic surfactants present can act as conditioning agents and help in the heating step by ensuring that the heating device moves smoothly over the hair fibers. Although surfactants can also help to increase viscosity, they are not considered as rheology modifiers for the purposes of describing the exemplary modality here.
[0048] Cationic surfactants can be any of the cationic surfactants known or previously used in the technique of aqueous surfactant compositions. Suitable classes of cationic surfactants alkyl amines, alkyl imidazolines, ethoxylated amines, quaternary compounds, and quaternized esters. In addition, alkyl amine oxides can function as a cationic surfactant at a low pH.
[0049] Alkylamine surfactants can be C12C22 alkyl salts primary, secondary and tertiary fatty amines, substituted or unsubstituted, and substances sometimes referred to as “amidoamines” Examples of alkylamines and salts thereof include dimethyl cocamine, dimethyl palmitamine, dioctylamine, dimethyl stearamine, dimethyl soybeans, soybeans, myristyl amine, tridecyl amine, ethyl stearylamine, N-sebopropane diamine, ethoxylated stearylamine, ethyl stearylamine, arachidylbehenylamine, dimethyl lauramine, stearylamine chloride, stearylamine chloride N-sebopropane diamine, and amodimethicone (INCI name for a silicone polymer and blocked with amino functional groups, such as aminoethylamino propylsiloxane).
Examples of amidoamines and salts thereof include propyl dimethyl amine stearamido, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine citrate, / 50 palmitamidopropyl diethylamine, and cocamidopropyl dimethylamine lactate. Examples of alkyl imidazoline surfactants include alkyl hydroxyethyl imidazoline, such as stearyl hydroxyethyl imidazoline, coconut hydroxyethyl imidazoline, ethyl hydroxymethyl oleyl oxazoline, and the like.
[0052] Examples of ethyloxylated amines include PEGcocopoliamine, PEG-15 tallow amine, quaternium-52, and the like.
[0053] Among the quaternary ammonium compounds useful as cationic surfactants, some correspond to the general formula: (R ⁵ R6R7R ⁸ N +) E ^- , where R ⁵ , R ⁶ , R ⁷ , and R ⁸ are independently selected from a group aliphatic having from 1 to about 22 carbon atoms, or an aromatic, alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene, alkyl starch, hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkylaryl group having from 1 to about 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl chain; and E ^- is an anion that forms salt such as those selected from halogen, (for example, chloride, bromide), acetate, citrate, lactate, glycolate, phosphate, nitrate, sulfate, and alkyl sulfate. Aliphatic groups may contain, in addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms, ether bonds, ester bonds, and other groups such as amino groups. Longer-chain aliphatic groups, for example, those of about 12 carbons, or higher (C10-C32 in the alkyl chain), can be saturated or unsaturated. In one respect, the aryl groups are selected from phenyl and benzyl.
[0054] Exemplary quaternary ammonium surfactants include, but are not limited to, cetyl trimethylammonium chloride (cetrimony chloride), cetylpyridinium chloride, dicetyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, diexadecyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, stearyl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride, dioctadecyl dimethyl ammonium, dieicosyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, didocosyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, diexadecyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, diexadecyl dimethyl ammonium acetate, trimethyl ammonium chloride, benzalkonium chloride, benzalkonium chloride and benzalkonium chloride di (coconutalkyl) dimethyl ammonium, disebodimethyl ammonium chloride, / 50 di (hydrogenated tallow) dimethyl ammonium chloride, di (hydrogenated tallow) dimethyl ammonium acetate, methyl disebodimethyl ammonium sulfate, dipropyl ammonium phosphate, and dipropyl ammonium nitrate dimethyl ammonium edible.
[0055] At low pH, amine oxides can protonate and behave similarly to N-alkyl amines. Examples include, but are not limited to, dimethyldodecylamine oxide, oleyldi (2-hydroxyethyl) amine oxide, dimethyltetradecylamine oxide, di (2-hydroxyethyl) tetradecylamine oxide, dimethylhexadecylamine oxide, beenamine oxide, beenamine oxide cocamine, decyltetradecylamine oxide, dihydroxyethyl alkoxide C1215 propylamine, dihydroxyethyl oxide cocamine, dihydroxyethyl lauramine oxide, dihydroxyethyl stearamine oxide, tallow hydroxide, hydroxide, hydroxide, hydroxide, hydroxide, hydrochloride, hydroxide C12-C15 propylamine, lauramine oxide, myristamine oxide, ketylamine oxide, oleamidopropylamine oxide, oleamine oxide, palmitamine oxide, PEG-3 lauramine oxide, dimethyl lauramine oxide, potassium oxide, trisphosphonyl oxide, potassium oxide, trisphosphonyl oxide, potassium oxide cocamidopropylamine oxide, stearamine oxide, sebumamine oxide, and mixtures thereof.
[0056] Particularly useful cationic surfactants include fatty acid derivatives, such as alkylammonium fatty chlorides (C10-C32 in the alkyl chain), such as cetrimonium chloride and beenthrimone chloride. Such surfactants can also serve as conditioning and emollient agents.
[0057] Other surfactants may be present as a number of components, such as substantially insoluble materials that require suspension or stabilization (for example, a silicone, an oily material, a perennial material, aesthetic and cosmeceutical pearls and particles, gas bubbles, exfoliants, and the like), may be present in the / 50 composition.
[0058] The anionic surfactant can be any of the anionic surfactants known or previously used in the technique of aqueous surfactant compositions. Suitable anionic surfactants include but are not limited to alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl sulfonates, alkaryl sulfonates, α-olefin sulfonates, alkyl amide sulfonates, alkaryl polyether ether sulfates, alkyl amido ether sulfates, alkyl monoglyceryl ether sulfates, alkyl monoglyceride monoglycerides , alkyl succinates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkyl amidosulfosuccinates; alkyl sulfoacetates, alkyl phosphates, alkyl ether phosphates, alkyl ether carboxylates, alkyl starch ether carboxylates, N-alkylamino acids, N-acyl amino acids, alkyl peptides, N-acyl taurates, alkyl isethionates, carboxylate salts in which the group acyl is derived from fatty acids; and the alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium, amine, and triethanolamine salts thereof.
[0059] In one aspect, the cationic portion of the preceding salts is selected from sodium, potassium, magnesium, ammonium, mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts, and mono-, di-, and tri-isopropylamine salts. The alkyl and acyl groups of the foregoing surfactants contain from about 6 to about 24 carbon atoms in one aspect, from 8 to 22 carbon atoms in another aspect and from about 12 to 18 carbon atoms in another aspect and may be unsaturated. The aryl groups in the surfactants are selected from phenyl or benzyl. The ether-containing surfactants presented above can contain from 1 to 10 units of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide per surfactant molecule in one aspect, and from 1 to 3 units of ethylene oxide per surfactant molecule in another aspect.
[0060] Examples of suitable anionic surfactants include the salts of lauret sulfate, tridecet sulfate, myret sulfate, paret C12-C13 sulfate, paret C12-C14 sulfate, and paret C12-C15 sulfate, sodium, potassium, lithium, / 50 magnesium , and ammonium, ethoxylated with 1, 2, and 3 moles of ethylene oxide; lauryl sulphate, coconut sulphate, tridecyl sulphate, mirstyl sulphate, cetyl sulphate, cetearyl sulphate, stearyl sulphate, oleyl sulphate, and sodium tallow sulphate, potassium, lithium, magnesium, ammonium, and triethanolamine, disodium lauryl sulphosuccinate, disodium lauret sulphosuccinate , sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium C12-C14 sulfonate, sodium lauret-6 carboxylate, sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, sodium cocoyl glycinate, sodium myristyl sarcocinate, sodium dodecylbenzene sulfonate, sodium cocoyl sarcosinate, cocoyl glutamate sodium sodium, potassium myristoyl glutamate, triethanolamine monolauryl phosphate, and fatty acid soaps, including the sodium, potassium, ammonium, and triethanolamine salts of one of the saturated and unsaturated fatty acids containing about 8 to about 22 carbon atoms .
[0061] Amphoteric or zuiterionic surfactants are molecules that contain acidic and basic portions and have the ability to behave like an acid or a base. Suitable surfactants can be any of the known or previously used amphoteric surfactants in the art of aqueous surfactant compositions. Exemplary classes of amphoteric surfactant include, but are not limited to, amino acids (for example, Nalkyl amino acids and N-acyl amino acids), betaines, sultaines, and alkyl amphocarboxylates.
[0062] Suitable amino acid based surfactants here include the surfactants represented by the formula:
z ₁₀ ^- +
R — N C (O) O M
Y where R ¹⁰ represents a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group having 10 to 22 carbon atoms or an acyl group containing a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group having 9 to 22 carbon atoms, Y is hydrogen or methyl, Z is selected from hydrogen, / 50
-CH3, -CH (CH3) 2, -CH2CH (CHs) 2, -CH (CH3) CH2CH3, -CH2C6H5, CH2C6H4OH, -CH2OH, -CH (OH) CH3, - (CH2) 4NH2, - (CH2) 3NHC (NH) NH2, CH2C (O) O ^- M +, - (CH2) 2C (O) O ^- M ⁺ . M is a salt-forming cation. In one aspect, R ¹⁰ represents a radical selected from a linear or branched C10 to C22 alkyl group, a linear or branched C10 to C22 alkenyl group, an acyl group represented by R ¹¹ C (O) -, where R ¹¹ is selected of a linear or branched C9 to C22 alkyl group, a linear or branched C9 to C22 alkenyl group. In one aspect, M ⁺ is selected from sodium, potassium, ammonium and triethanolamine (TEA).
[0063] Amino acid surfactants can be derived from the alkylation and acylation of α-amino acids such as, for example, alanine, arginine, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, glycine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, phenylalanine, serine, tyrosine and valine. Representative N-acyl amino acid surfactants are, but are not limited to the mono- and di-carboxylate salts (eg sodium, potassium, ammonium and TEA) of N-acylated glutamic acid, eg sodium cocoyl glutamate, lauroyl sodium glutamate, sodium myristoyl glutamate, sodium palmitoyl glutamate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, sodium disodium cocoil glutamate, potassium cocoyl glutamate, potassium lauroyl glutamate, and potassium myristyl glutamate; the carboxylate salts (for example, sodium, potassium, ammonium and TEA) of N-acylated alanine, for example, sodium cocoyl alaninate, and TEA lauryl alaninate; the carboxylate salts (for example, sodium, potassium, ammonium and TEA) of N-acylated glycine, for example, sodium cocoyl glycinate, and potassium cocoyl glycinate; the carboxylate salts (for example, sodium, potassium, ammonium and TEA) of N-acylated sarcosine, for example, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium cocoyl sarcosinate, sodium myristoyl sarcosinate, sodium oleyl sarcosinate, and ammonium lauroyl sarcosinate ; and mixtures of the preceding surfactants.
[0064] The betaines and sultaines useful in the composition are selected / 50 of alkyl betaines, alkylamino betaines, and alkylamido betaines, as well as the corresponding sulfobetaines (sultaines) represented by the formulas:
R ¹³ i - + + 14
R — N — R — A M
R "
R ¹³
N-R-AM
R ”
OR ¹³
II R - +
R-C — NH - (- CH ^^ N-R-A M
R ¹³ where R ¹² is a C7-C22 alkyl or alkenyl group, each R ¹³ independently is a C1-C4 alkyl group, R ¹⁴ is a C1-C5 alkylene group or a hydroxy substituted C1-C ₅ alkylene group, n is an integer from 2 to 6, A is a carboxylate or sulfonate group, and M is a salt-forming cation. In one aspect, R ¹² is a C11-C18 alkyl group or a C11C ₁₈ alkenyl group. In one respect, R ¹³ is methyl. In one aspect, R ¹⁴ is methylene, ethylene or hydroxy propylene. In one aspect, n is 3. In another aspect, M is selected from sodium, potassium, magnesium, ammonium, and mono-, di- and triethanolamine cations.
[0065] Examples of suitable betaines include lauryl betaine, coconut betaine, oleyl betaine, cocohexadecyl dimethylbetaine, lauryl amidopropyl betaine, cocoamidopropyl betaine, and cocamidopropyl hydroxy-sultaine.
[0066] Alkylamphocarboxylates, such as alkylaminoacetates and alkylamphopropionates (mono- and disubstituted carboxylates), can be represented by the formula:
O
Jl, _x xR ¹⁵
RC-NHJ-CH4-NC 16 ' ² ' ⁿ ch ₂ ch ₂ or where R ¹² is a C7-C22 alkyl or alkenyl group, R ¹⁵ is / 50
CH2C (O) Q- M ⁺ , -CH2CH2C (O) Q- M ⁺ , or -CH2CH (QH) CH2SO3 'M ⁺ , R ¹⁶ is a hydrogen or -CH2C (O) O ^- M ⁺ , and M is a cation selected from sodium, potassium, magnesium, ammonium, and mono-, di- and triethanolamine.
[0067] Exemplary alkyl amphocarboxylates include sodium cocoamfoacetate, sodium lauroamfoacetate, sodium capriloamfoacetate, disodium cocoanphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacate disodium capriloanphodiacate, cocoanododiiodionpropionate, and sodiumpropionatepropionate, eucalyptuspropionate disagreement.
[0068] The nonionic surfactant can be any of the nonionic surfactants known or previously used in the technique of aqueous surfactant compositions. Suitable non-ionic surfactants include, but are not limited to, linear or branched primary or secondary aliphatic acids, alcohols or phenols (C6-C1s); alkyl ethoxylates; alkyl phenol alkoxylates (especially ethoxylates and mixed portions of ethoxy / propoxy); alkylene oxide block condensates of alkyl phenols; alkylene oxide condensates of alkanols; and ethylene oxide / propylene oxide block copolymers. Other suitable non-ionic surfactants include mono- or dialkyl alkanolamides; alkyl polyglycosides (APGs); sorbitan fatty acid esters; polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid esters; polyoxyethylene sorbitol esters; polyoxyethylene acids, and polyoxyethylene alcohols. Other examples of suitable non-ionic surfactants include coconut mono- or diethanolamide, coconut glycoside, decyl diglycoside, lauryl diglycoside, coconut diglycoside, polysorbate 20, 40, 60, and 80, ethoxylated linear alcohols, cetearyl alcohol, lanolin alcohol, stearic acid, glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate, lauret 7, and olet 20.
[0069] In another embodiment, nonionic surfactants include alkoxylated methyl glycosides such as, for example, methyl glucet-10, methyl glucet-20, PPG-10 methyl glucose ether, and PPG-20 methyl glucose ether , / 50 available from Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc., under the trade names, Glucam® E10, Glucam® E20, Glucam® P10, and Glucam® P20, respectively; and hydrophobically modified alkoxylated methyl glycosides, such as methyl glucose dioleate PEG 120, methyl glucose trioleate PEG-120, and methyl glucose sesquistearate PEG-20, available from Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc., under the trade names Glucamate® DOE -120, Glucamate ^® LT, and Glucamate ^® SSE-20, respectively, are also suitable. Other exemplary hydrophobically modified alkoxylated methyl glycosides are disclosed in US Patent Nos. 6,573,375 and 6,727,357.
[0070] Other surfactants that can be used in the composition are shown in more detail in WO 99/21530, U.S. Patent Nos. 3,929,678, 4,565,647, 5,720,964 and 5,858,948. In addition, suitable surfactants are also described in McCutcheon’s Emulsifiers and Detergents (North American and International Editions, by Schwartz, Perry and Berch).
[0071] Although the amounts of the surfactant used in a composition comprising the exemplary thermally activated agent can vary widely depending on a desired application, the amounts that are frequently used generally range from 1% by weight to 80% by weight, on a basis of active. For example, the surfactant may be present in the composition, on an active basis, in a total concentration of 0.001 to 20% by weight, for example, at least 0.1% by weight. Emulsifiers [0072] Fatty alcohols and fatty acids, as well as their alkoxylates, partial esters of polyglycerols, as well as organosiloxanes are useful here. Fatty alcohol can be obtained from natural sources and thus be a mixture of alcohols.
[0073] Emulsifiers, when used in the compositions / 50 copies, may include fatty alcohols, such as C12-C32 or C12-C22 fatty alcohols, alkoxylated alcohols, such as C12-C32 or C12-C22 alkoxylated alcohols, such fatty acids such as C12-C32 or C12-C22 fatty acids, alkoxylated fatty acids, such as C12-C32 or C12-C22 alkoxylated fatty acids (alkoxylates each having 10 to 80 units of ethylene oxide, propylene oxide, and combinations of ethylene oxide / propylene oxide present in the molecule), C8-C22 alkyl polyglycosides (APGs), ethoxylated sterols (where the number of ethylene oxide units varies from 2 to about 150), partial esters of polyglycerols, esters and partial esters of polyols having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, partial esters of polyglycerols, and organosiloxanes, and combinations thereof.
[0074] An example of useful alcohol here is cetearyl alcohol, which is a mixture of fatty alcohols, predominantly cetyl and stearyl alcohols. Since such fatty alcohols can serve as a rheology modifier in the composition, they are thus considered as rheology modifiers for the purposes of defining the weights of the components of the composition. Such fatty alcohols can also serve as emollients and / or conditioning agents.
Particularly suitable emulsifiers include polyoxyethylene ethers, such as cetearet-n (where n represents the number of polyethylene units in the chain, such as from 2 to 100, for example, from 5 to 50), such as cetearet 20 .
Exemplary alkyl glycosides and oligoglycosides can be selected from octyl glycoside, decyl glycoside, lauryl glycoside, palmityl glycoside, isostearyl glycoside, stearyl glycoside, arachidyl glycoside and beenyl glycoside, and mixtures thereof.
[0077] Emulsifiers based on esters and partial esters of polyols having 2 to 6 carbon atoms that are condensed with saturated and unsaturated linear fatty acids having 12 to 30 carbon atoms / 50 are, for example, monoesters and glycerol or ethylene glycol diesters or the propylene glycol monoesters with saturated and unsaturated C12-C30 fatty acids.
[0078] The emulsifier can be suitably present in 0.01 to 20% by weight of the composition, such as at least 0.1% by weight, for example, up to 5% by weight, which for the purposes of computing the amounts present in the composition, excludes those listed above as rheology modifiers.
Conditioning agents [0079] Exemplary conditioning agents include polyquaternium-n (polycationic polymers including a quaternary ammonium center in the polymer), where n is 1 to 47, each n designating a specific polymer, such as polyquaternium 37, and functionalized silicones amine, such as amodimethicone. Another suitable conditioning agent is hydrolyzed keratin.
Such conditioning agents can be present from 0.01 to 20% by weight of the composition, such as at least 0.1% by weight, for example, up to 5% by weight.
Humectants [0081] Humectants suitable for use in the composition of the invention include, but are not limited to, glycerol, polyglycerols, sorbitol, propane-1,2-diol (propylene glycol), butane-1,2,3-triol, polyethylene glycols, glucose, mannitol, xylitol, and mixtures thereof.
[0082] Such humectants can be present from 0.01 to 20% by weight of the composition, such as at least 0.1% by weight, or at least 1% by weight, for example, up to 8% by weight, or up to 5% by weight.
Preservatives [0083] In one respect, any preservatives suitable for use in personal care can be used in the composition to straighten hair. Suitable / 50 preservatives include bicyclic polymethoxy oxazolidine, methyl paraben, propyl paraben, ethyl paraben, butyl paraben, benzyltriazole, DMDM hydantoin (also known as 1,3-dimethyl-5,5-dimethyl hydantoin), imidazolidinyl urea, phenoxyethylparaben, phenoxyethanol , methylisothiazolinone, methylchloroisothiazolinone, benzoisothiazolinone, triclosan, and suitable polyquaternium compounds as disclosed above (for example, Polyquaternium-1).
[0084] In another aspect, acid-based preservatives are useful in exemplary compositions. The use of acid-based preservatives facilitates the formulation of products in the low pH range. Lowering the pH of a formulation inherently provides an inhospitable environment for microbial growth as well as being suitable for the straightening process. In addition, the low pH formulation enhances the effectiveness of acid-based preservatives, and provides a personal care product that maintains an acid pH balance on the skin. Any acid-based preservative that is useful in personal care products can be used in exemplary compositions. In one aspect, the acid preservative is a compound of the carboxylic acid represented by the formula: R ³ C (O) OH, where R ³ represents hydrogen, a saturated and unsaturated hydrocarbyl group containing from 1 to 8 carbon atoms or aryl from C6 to C10. In another aspect, R ³ is selected from a hydrogen, a C1 to C8 alkyl group, a C2 to C8 alkenyl group, or phenyl. Exemplary acids are, but are not limited to, formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, sorbic acid, caprylic acid, and benzoic acid, and mixtures thereof.
[0085] In another aspect, suitable acids include, but are not limited to, oxalic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, azelaic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid, lactic acid, glycolic acid, tartronic acid, malic, tartaric acid, glyconic acid, citric acid, ascorbic acid, salicylic acid, phthalic acid, mandelic acid, / 50 benzyl acid, and mixtures thereof.
[0086] The salts of the preceding acids are also useful as long as they retain their effectiveness at low pH values. Suitable salts include the alkali metal salts (for example, sodium, potassium, calcium) and ammonium of the acids listed above.
[0087] Acid-based preservatives and / or their salts can be used alone or in combination with non-acidic preservatives typically used in personal care, home care, health care and institutional and industrial care products.
[0088] Preservatives may comprise from 0.01% by weight to 3.0% by weight in one aspect, or from 0.1% by weight to 1% by weight, or from 0.3% by weight to 1% by weight, of the total weight of the hair straightening composition. Chelating agents [0089] Chelating agents can be used to stabilize the composition against the harmful effects of metal ions. Suitable chelating agents, when used, include EDTA (ethylene diamino tetraacetic acid) and salts thereof such as disodium EDTA, citric acid and salts thereof, cyclodextrins, and the like, and mixtures thereof.
Such suitable chelating agents may comprise from 0.001% by weight to 3% by weight, such as from 0.01% by weight to 2% by weight, or from 0.01% by weight to 1% by weight total of the hair straightening composition.
Propellants [0091] Where desired, any known aerosol propellant can be used to release hair straightening compositions onto the surface of the hair to be straightened. Exemplary propellants include lower boiling hydrocarbons such as straight and branched chain C3-C6 hydrocarbons. Exemplary / 50 hydrocarbon propellants include propane, butane, isobutene, and mixtures thereof. Other suitable propellants include ethers, such as, dimethyl ether, hydrofluorocarbons, such as, 1,1-difluoroethane, and compressed gases, such as air and carbon dioxide.
[0092] In one aspect, these compositions can contain from 0.1% by weight to 60% by weight, or from 0.5 to 35% by weight of propellant, based on the total weight of the composition.
Fragrances and Perfumes [0093] The fragrance and perfume components that can be used in the exemplary composition include natural and synthetic fragrances, perfumes, aromas, and essences and any other substances that emit a fragrance. Like natural fragrances, there are those of plant origin, such as flower oil extracts (for example, lily, lavender, rose, jasmine, neroli, ilang-ilang), stems and leaves (geranium, patchouli, petitgrain, mint), fruits (fennel, coriander, fennel, juniper needle), fruit peel (mandarin, lemon, orange), roots (nutmeg, angelica, celery, cardamom, costus, iris, calamus), wood (pine, sandalwood , guáiacu, cedar, rosewood, cinnamon), herbs and grasses (tarragon, citronella, sage, thyme), needles and branches (spruce, pine, European red pine, pinewood), and resins and balms (galbanum, elemi, benzoin , myrrh, frankincense, opópanax), and those of animal origin, such as musk, civet, castorum, gray amber, or the like, and mixtures thereof.
[0094] Examples of synthetic fragrances and perfumes are esters, ethers, aldehydes, ketones, alcohols, and aromatic hydrocarbons including benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutylate, p-tertbutylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, dimethylbenzylcarbin acetate phenylethyl, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, ethyl methylphenyl glycinate, allylcyclohexyl propionate, styryl propionate, and benzyl salicylate; benzylethyl ether; straight chain alkalis having from 8 to 18
31/50 carbon atoms, citral, citronelal, citroneliloxialdehyde, cyclamen aldehyde, hydroxycitronelal, lilial, and bougeonal; ionone compounds, α-isomethyl ionone, and methyl cedryl ketone; anethole, citronelol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, lavandulol, nerolidol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol, and terpineol, alpha-pinene, terpenes (e.g., limonene), and balms, and mixtures thereof. Botanical Products [0095] Suitable botanical agents useful here may include, for example, Echinacea extracts (for example, sp. Angustifolia, purpurea, pallida), glauca yucca, willow herb, basil leaves, Turkish oregano, carrot root , grapefruit, fennel seed, rosemary, turmeric, thyme, blueberry, bell pepper, blackberry, spirulina, currant fruit, tea leaves, such as, for example, Chinese tea, black tea (for example, var. Flowery Orange Pekoe, Golden Flowery Orange Pekoe, Fine Tippy Golden Flowery Orange Pekoe), green tea (eg var. Japanese, Green Darjeeling), oolong tea, coffee seed, dandelion root, date palm fruit, leaf gingko, green tea, hawthorn berry, licorice, sage, strawberry, sweet pea, tomato, vanilla fruit, comfrey, amica, asian spark, cornflower, horse chestnut, ivy, magnolia, oats, pansy, skullcap, sea buckthorn, white nettle, and hammalis. Botanical extracts may also include, for example, chlorogenic acid, glutathione, glycyrrhizin, neoesperidin, quercetin, rutin, morina, myricetin, wormwood and chamomile.
Hair fixing agents [0096] Hair fixing agents can be included in addition to the exemplary thermally activated agent, including polymeric fixatives such as methyl 3-aminopropyl, dimethyl, silicone reaction products and siloxanes with 2-ethyl-4 homopolymer, 5-dihydrooxazole, ethyl sulfates, such as Polysilicone-9, and film-forming polymers such as polyacrylic acid fixers and sodium polyacrylate polymer, such as / 50
Fixate® RSP available from Lubrizol Corp.
[0097] The hair fixing agent can be present in the composition from 0.001% by weight to 20% by weight, such as at least 0.1% by weight, or up to 5% by weight.
Emollients [0098] Emollients, other than those listed above, may include silicone oils, functionalized silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils, fatty alcohols, fatty alcohol ethers, fatty acids, monobasic and / or dibasic carboxylic acid esters and / or tribasic and / or polybasic with mono and polyhydric alcohols, polyoxyethylene, polyoxypropylene, mixtures of polyoxyethylene ethers and polyoxypropylene of fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof. Emollients can be saturated or unsaturated, have an aliphatic character and be straight or branched or contain alicyclic or aromatic rings.
[0099] A useful example emollient here is diisopropyl adipate. Buffer Agents [00100] Buffer agents can be used in exemplary compositions. Suitable buffering agents include carbonates, phosphates, bicarbonates, citrates, borates, acetates, acid anhydrides, succinates, alkali or alkaline earth metal and the like, such as sodium phosphate, sodium citrate, sodium acetate, sodium bicarbonate , and sodium carbonate.
[00101] Other auxiliary components useful here may include UV absorbers, such as benzophenone-4.
[00102] The composition may exclude certain components, such as hair coloring agents (hair dyes), peptides, sulfites, bisulfites, and cyclic mercapto compounds that are not of benefit simply in a hair straightening application.
Creamy Example Formulations
33/50 [00103] As an example, creamy formulations can be formulated as shown in Table 1:
Table 1: Example Compositions
Component Example 1Weight% of assets Example 2Weight% of assets Thermally activated agent 5-95, or 5-60 15-50 Rheology modifier 0-20 1-10 Cationic surfactant 0-20 1-5 PH modifier (or in an amount sufficient to provide a pH of up to 8.5) 0.01-10 0.02-5 Preservative 0-2 0.01-1 Organic Solvents 0-50 0.2-30 Other components 0-20 0-10 Water q.s. to 100% q.s. to 100%
[00104] As will be evaluated, the compositions can be formed by combining ranges from Examples 1 and 2. Additionally, the selected process, such as the contact time and the heating temperature, can also influence the selection of the components of the composition and their quantities, as shown by the examples below.
[00105] The semi-permanent hair straightening composition can be provided and dispensed from suitable package forms, such as pressurized and non-pressurized containers, such as cans, bottles, packages, ampoules, jars, tubes, and the like. Spray compositions can be dispensed from finger-operated pump devices, such as pressurized aerosol sprays, mousses, vaporizers, and propellant-containing foams, or as non-pressurized, mechanically driven sprays and foams.
[00106] The exemplary composition can be used on the hair to communicate an excellent straightening effect through the use of heat. The treatment method includes first coating the hair with the composition. This can be done with any suitable applicator, such as a brush, comb, sponge, pillow, cloth, finger for example, while using gloves, to coat the fibers with the composition. The composition is left in contact with the hair for a period of time sufficient for the thermally activated agent to penetrate the fibers, such as several minutes, for example, at least / 50 five or at least ten minutes, or at least twenty minutes, or at least thirty minutes, and up to sixty, or even forty, or even thirty minutes. The ideal contact time can vary, depending on factors such as the concentration of thermally activated agent and the temperature of the heating device used to contact the hair in the heating stage. [00107] Heat can be applied with a heating device that provides a temperature sufficient to activate the thermally activated agent of the Structure (1), such as a temperature of at least 185 ° C, or at least 190 ° C, or at least at least 200 ° C, or at least 205 ° C or at least or about 210 ° C and up to 230 ° C or up to 225 ° C, or up to 220 ° C. The heating device is kept in contact with the hair long enough to effect the desired modification, such as an increase in the length of a lock of hair by at least 5%, or at least 10%. The time depends on several factors such as the moisture content of the hair, the temperature of the heating device, concentration of the thermally activated agent and so on, but it is generally at least 10 seconds, or at least 1 or 2 minutes, in total, for every inch of hair length. Example heating devices include straight or round planks, microwave generators, infrared radiation sources, and the like. In the case of a straight or round board, for example, the heating device has at least one surface (which is brought into contact with the fibers) that is raised, for example, with an electrical power source, at a surface temperature of at least 180 ° C, or at least 190 ° C, or at least 200 ° C, or at least 205 ° C or at least or about 210 ° C and up to 230 ° C or up to 225 ° C, or up to 220 ° Ç.
[00108] The temperature of the curl can be measured, for example, with a thermocouple positioned inside the curl and can reach a temperature of at least 150 ° C or at least 170 ° C during heating with the heating device .
/ 50 [00109] Optionally, the hair can be dried to some degree after treatment with the straightening composition and before the application of heat to raise the temperature of the keratin fibers and / or to avoid substantial vapor release during the heating. For example, partial drying can be achieved by blow drying with a hair dryer, a drying hood at a temperature of about 100 ° C, free drying, drying with a towel, etc. For example, the moisture content of the composition can be reduced to 10% by weight or less, such as about 2% by weight, before applying heat with the heating device. In general, drying is performed to remove solvent while retaining at least a portion, or all, of the thermally activated agent applied to the hair. For this reason also, the hair is not rinsed (for example, with water or other aqueous solution) between the application and heating stages in the exemplary mode.
[00110] The end of the boards that come into contact with the hair usually has two flat surfaces. These two flat surfaces can be metallic or ceramic. They can be smooth or carved. The application of the board can be carried out by successive touches separated by a few seconds, or by moving or gradually sliding down closed, etc. The application of the board in the exemplary process is carried out by continuous movement from the root to the end, in one or more passes, such as at least five passes.
[00111] Without wishing to be bound by any particular theory, it is suggested that the hot flat board softens the hard keratin and smooths the hair and synergistically, the heat communicated by the board activates a reaction (for example, a crosslink or other modification reaction) between cyclic carbonates (or another thermally activated agent according to Structure (I)) and the amine groups of the hair fibers, possibly resulting in Ν, Ν'-disubstituted urea bonds. This results in a / 50 fixation of the newly formed shape.
[00112] The test results suggest that ethylene carbonate, among others, such as in an aqueous solution, can easily penetrate the hair fibers and react with hard proteinaceous materials by means of a board at a temperature higher than 185 ° C or about 210 ^{° C.} The curly hair curls used in the tests, once straightened, can withstand up to 50 shampooing cycles. The straightened curls look shiny and look smooth and silky without a bad smell. Propylene carbonate and glycerol carbonate were less effective when used alone under the same conditions, but can be used in combination with other thermally activated agents of Structure (I) or other crosslinking agents.
[00113] Alkylene carbonates, in particular ethylene carbonate, have been shown to be effective protein modifiers or cross-linking agents communicating the ease and effectiveness of the desired reactions that act on the keratin peptides. In summary, applying an aqueous solution containing ethylene carbonate to the hair followed by a treatment with a hot straightener (for example, at <210 ° C) can effectively modify its shape as desired and that this shape can last for days, even weeks ( for example, 50 head washes or the like for about 4 months) without returning to your original curly state. This compares very favorably with formulations based on formaldehyde.
[00114] For example, the process provides some or all of the following attributes:
1. Activated using the straightener to create smooth, soft, sleek hair
2. Retains style for at least 24 shampoo washes and up to 8 or 12 weeks (for a consumer using 3 shampoo washes / week), and can be up to 50 head washes or equivalent in about 4 months, / 50 or longer.
3. Resistant to high humidity
4. Less heat damage to hair than existing formaldehyde-based straightening compositions
5. Low or no volatile organic compounds (VOCs)
6. Formaldehyde free
1. Applicable to all hair types, including natural and chemically treated hair
8. Suitable for use at home as well as application in the salon [00115] Without wishing to limit the scope of the exemplary modality, the following examples demonstrate the effectiveness of the example compositions. EXAMPLES [00116] In the following examples, the type of hair and frizz are based on the definition published by LOréal (Roland de la Mettrie, et al. “Shape Variability and Classification of Human Hair: A Worldwide Approach,” Human Biology, Jun 2007) . This designates a number to the hair from I to VIII, with I being the smoothest and VIII representing dense, very curly hair. In general, the samples used here were rolled up, classified as type 4-5. After thermal straightening, the curl typically became type I. However, the hair relaxes in the wash. If, after 3 shampooing cycles, the curl relaxes to type 3-4, this can be considered as inefficiently smoothed (relaxed).
[00111] To simulate human hair on the head, curls of Brazilian curly hair were obtained from the International Hair Importer and Product Inc. Each single hair curl is about 2.5 g in weight and has dimensions of approximately 20 cm in length and 10 cm in width at the widest point. The bunches are each fixed by the root end.
[00118] Before use, each curl of dark brown curly hair / 50 was washed with shampoo using a commercial clarifying shampoo (VO5® or Suave ® shampoo) massaging gently for 30 seconds followed by rinsing for 60 seconds with water warm current (35 to 38 ° C). Each washed hair curl is then dried at room temperature under conditions of relative humidity of 30 to 50%.
[00119] Two different application methods were evaluated:
1. Immersion in Solution [00120] This method is used primarily to screen and select candidate molecules as possible thermally activated agents. Typically, a solution of the candidate molecule is prepared in a suitable solvent system. The curl is completely immersed in the solution with controlled concentration of candidate thermally activated agent, pH, temperature and soaking time, such as for up to 60 minutes. Then, the curl of hair is removed from the solution, the excess amount of material squeezed, and the curl is blow-dried to at least 95% dryness before thermal straightening.
2. Chassis Cream [00121] The thermally activated agents that performed well in the solution immersion method are incorporated into a cationic emulsion system or chassis cream at different levels and pH, as shown in Table 2:
Table 2: Chassis Cream Formulas
Component Occupation Asset quantity,% by weight Thermally activated agent, eg EC Thermally activated hair straightening agent Different amounts Liquid paraffin Rheology and emollient modifier 3.00 Cetearyl alcohol Rheology modifier and conditioning agent 2.50 Diisopropyl adipate Emollient 1.50 Cetrimonium chloride (50% by active weight) Surfactant / Conditioning agent 1.40 Cetearet-20 Emulsifier Different amounts Citric Acid (10% active weight) PH modifier 0.20
39/50
Component Occupation Asset quantity,% by weight NaOH (18% active weight) PH modifier Different amounts to obtain the desired pH Methylchloroisothiazolinone (e)methylisothiazolinone (preservative) Preservative 0.05 Water Solvent / diluent for the thermally activated agent q.s. to 100%
[00122] The product is applied to a bunch of short curly hair and left to stand according to the protocol. After the controlled application time, the curl is blow-dried to at least 95% dryness before thermal straightening.
[00123] For thermal straightening by the board, a commercial board, sold under the Nano Titanium® brand by BaBiliss PRO was used. The protocol used was as follows:
1. The board is adjusted to the targeted temperature (<210 ° C).
2. The heated board is pulled from the top to the bottom in approximately 12 seconds.
3. The thermal process is repeated for the desired level of smoothing (for example, 10 to 12 passed at 210 ° C).
[00124] After the thermal straightening treatment, the curl is allowed to cool to room temperature.
[00125] Washing stability: Shampooing stability is achieved by applying shampoo (VO5 or mild shampoo) over the curl of hair that is massaged for 30 seconds followed by rinsing for 60 seconds with running warm water (32 to 35 ° C). The washed hair curl is then dried at 23 ° C and 50% relative humidity. Consecutive shampoo washing cycles are carried out without the drying step.
[00126] Resistance to Moisture: Curl of hair that is thermally straightened after a certain number of shampoo washes are dried before being placed in a humid chamber with controlled temperature and% relative humidity.
[00127] Two methods are used to evaluate the efficiency of the / 50 thermal straightening:
1. Visual Assessment: treated hair curls are visually examined and compared against an untreated hair curl. A comparison is also made against a control that is only thermally treated.
2. Image Analysis: the method can be used to quantify the thermal straightening efficiency of the curly hair curl for different treatments. Measurements of the length and width of the cluster at half the length can be done with this method.
[00128] In the following initial screening test, the examination of thermally smoothed hair curls is performed by visually examining a curl that has been treated in a solution containing up to 30% by weight of a thermally activated candidate agent for 45 minutes, passed in hot board at 210 ° C (10 x 12 seconds). After three consecutive washing cycles, if the curl of dry hair (23 ° C and 50% relative humidity) becomes curly, this material is considered ineffective, that is not worthy of further evaluation in a creamy formulation.
[00129] Thermal Break Quantification: The hair curls thermally smoothed after a certain number of shampoo washes are dried before being placed in the humidity chamber with controlled temperature and% relative humidity. After a single curl of hair is combed with a comb with constant force from the root to the tip, and the movement is repeated 100 times. When completed, the hair fiber fragments that have broken from the curl are counted for comparison. Results [00130] Nine groups of small molecules are being compared in the first evaluation (based on solution):
1) Cyclic carbonates:
The. ethylene carbonate (EC), / 50
B. propylene carbonate (PC),
ç. glycerin carbonate (GC),
d. trimethylene carbonate (TC);
2) Linear Carbonates:
The. dimethyl carbonate,
B. diethyl carbonate;
3) Cyclic Lactones:
The. γ-valerolactone,
B. δ-valerolactone,
ç. g-caprolactone,
d. pantolactone;
4) Cyclical lactams:
The. γ-butyrolactam,
B. 1-methyl-2-pyrrolidone,
ç. δ-valerolactam,
d. g-caprolactam;
5) Other heterocyclic molecules:
The. 2-oxazolidinone (O),
B. 2-imidazolidinone;
6) Sulfones:
The. dimethyl sulfone,
B. sulfolane (2,3,4,5-tetrahydrothiophene-1,1-dioxide)
7) Ureas
The. Urea (U)
B. Ethylene Urea (EU)
8) Glyoxylic acid (GA)
9) Formaldehyde (F) [00131] The selected candidate molecules are further evaluated using creamy formulations. Tables 3 to 5 show some of the / 50 results obtained for creamy formulations where the following abbreviations are used:
Initial Hair Condition:
NR = newly received (virgin hair)
PU = previously used (used in other evaluations, which lead to some hair damage)
Shampoo treatment:
S = shampoo right after straightening
L = left overnight (12 hours) before the first wash [00132] Visual observations are made at the completion of the treatment protocol.
Table 3: Results for creamy formulations with ethylene carbonate
Ex. EC,% by weight pH Imbibition temp, mins Temp. of the board ° C Passadat Washing cycles m Hair curls Note 1 0 - - 227 10 3 NR curly curly (control) 2 15 6.7 35 208 12 6 PU curly Smooth 3 15 6.4 35 208 12 6 PU curly Smooth 4 15 6.4 35 208 12 6 PU curly Smooth 5 15 5.5 30 206 10 3 Hard Curly curly (hard hair) 6 15 6.7 30 208 10 3 L NR curly curly 7 15 6.7 30 208 10 3 Curly NR less curly 8 15 6.7 45 208 10 3 L NR curly curly 9 15 6.5 60 208 12 50 curly smooth 10 15 6.5 60 208 10 6 NR curly smooth 11 15 6.5 90 208 10 6 NR curly smooth 12 30 6.7 30 169 10 3 NR curly curly 13 30 6.6 30 170 10 6 PU curly curly 14 30 6.7 30 189 10 3 NR curly curly 15 30 6.6 30 190 10 6 PU- smooth
/ 50
Ex. EC,% by weight pH Imbibition temp, mins Temp. of the board° C Passadat Washing cycles m Bunches ofHair Note curly16 30 6.6 30 210 10 6 PU curly smooth 17 30 6.7 30 209 10 3 NR curly less curly 18 30 6.7 30 208 10 3 L NR curly less curly 19 30 6.7 30 208 10 3 NR curly less curly 20 30 6.7 30 207 10 3 NR curly less curly 21 30 6.7 45 208 10 50 L NR curly smooth 22 30 6.7 45 208 10 50 L NR curly smooth 23 30 6.7 45 208 10 50 L NR curly smooth 24 30 6.7 45 208 10 50 curly hair smooth 25 30 6.7 45 208 10 50 NR curly smooth 26 30 6.7 45 208 10 50 NR curly smooth 27 30 6.7 60 208 10 50 NR curly smooth 28 30 6.7 30 226 10 12 NR curly smooth 29 30 6.7 30 226 10 3 NR curly smooth 30 30 6.7 45 228 10 3 NR curly smooth 31 30 6.7 45 228 10 12 NR curly smooth
Table 4: Results for creamy formulations with ethylene carbonate + propylene carbonate
Ex. EC + PC,% by weight EC: P C pH Imbibition temp, mins Temp. of the board ° C Passes Washing cycles m Curly Hair Note 32 30 90/10 6.48 45 208 10 24 NR curly smooth 33 30 80/20 6.18 45 208 10 24 NR curly smooth 34 30 75/25 6.15 45 208 10 24 NR curly smooth 35 30 50/50 6.16 45 208 10 24 NR curly smooth
Table 5: Results for creamy formulations with propylene carbonate / 50
Ex. PRAÇA,% inWeight initial pH final pH Imbibition temp, mins Temp. of the board, ° C Passes Washing cycles m Hair curls Note 36 15 6.02 6.74 30 210 10 3 PU curly Curly 37 15 6.40 6.30 30 210 10 3 PU curly Curly 39 15 8.51 8.11 30 210 10 3 PU curly curly 40 15 9.64 8.97 30 210 10 3 PU curly curly 41 30 6.50 6.50 30 208 10 3 NR curly curly 42 30 6.50 6.50 60 208 10 3 NR curly curly 43 50 6.50 6.50 30 208 10 3 NR curly curly 44 50 6.50 6.50 60 208 10 3 NR curly curly
[00133] Examples 21 to 27 and 32 to 36 had almost no odor, and were smooth, glossy and looked healthy. Examples 28 to 31, smoothed at temperatures above 225 ° C showed some damage, presumably due to the higher temperature.
[00134] The results demonstrate that the smoothing can be obtained by selecting the soak time, temperature of the board, and concentration of thermally activated agents. For example, increased soaking time can compensate for the lower board temperature and / or concentration.
Image Analysis [00135] An image analysis method was developed to assess the efficiency of thermally smoothing exemplary thermally activated agents (ethylene carbonate, trimethylene carbonate, and oxazolidinone) and other small molecules, such as formaldehyde, urea, and glyoxylic acid.
[00136] As for the other tests, a curl of curly hair was completely immersed in an aqueous solution of one selected from one of the small molecules and soaked for 45 minutes. Each solution contained an equimolar amount of the selected small molecule. The curl of hair was then removed from the solution, excess water was squeezed by hand, / 50 and the hair dried by a hair dryer to the desired dryness before thermal straightening, as described above.
[00137] The image analysis method was used to measure the total length and width of the hair curl before and after the thermal straightening process, and after each shampooing cycle. More specifically, the photographs of curls or hair bundles of the hair curls were taken against a solid color background with a tripod-mounted digital camera. Lighting was selected to minimize shadows that could affect measurements. The cluster was hung from a bar that allowed the cluster to be rotated 90 degrees so that images could be taken from four different angles, providing a complete view of the cluster, with a ruler mounted close to the cluster as a scale.
[00138] The National Institutes for Health software program Image J was used for image processing and analysis. Table 6 shows the length, and width (half the length). The curl of curly hair has a 20 cm contour extension, and the part glued at the top is 2.0 cm wide and is about 0.4 cm long. Therefore, the effective contour extension of the curl is 19.6 cm.
[00139] The data from the image analysis thus shows that ethylene carbonate (EC) and trimethylene carbonate (TC) behave similarly to formaldehyde (F) and glyoxylic acid (GA), although without the potential risks that these small molecules have. Oxazolidinone (O) gives better straightening results than urea (U) and ethylene urea (EU). Urea and ethylene urea relax the curl of curly hair to some degrees. The classification of the molecules regarding the semi-permanent thermal smoothing efficiency of these data is:
GA «EC« F> TC> O> EU> U
Table 6: Thermal smoothing efficiency analyzed by the / 50 image analysis method
Small Molecule U I O TC F EC GALength max (cm) Control 15.9 16.0 16.1 16.5 16.0 16.8 16.1 Thermally treated 19.6 19.4 19.3 19.8 19.4 19.4 19.5 Average: 18.2 ± 18.2 ± 18.4 ± 19.0 ± 19.1 ± 0.1 19.4 ± 0.1 19.2 ± shampoos 1 to24 0.2 0.2 0.1 0.1 0.3Front: Width (cm) Control 5.3 5.1 5.5 5.9 5.2 5.4 4.7 Thermally treated 3.6 3.2 3.3 3.1 3.5 3.6 2.8 Average: shampoos from 1 to 24 5.8 ± 0.2 4.1 ± 0.2 3.9 ± 0.2 3.3 ± 0.1 3.3 ± 0.3 2.6 ± 0.1 2.5 ± 0.5Side: Width (cm) Control 3.0 2.9 4.3 4.4 3.0 4.4 3.0 Thermally treated 2.0 1.6 1.7 0.8 1.4 0.9 1.2 Average: shampoos from 1 to 24 4.0 ± 0.4 2.6 ± 0.1 2.7 ± 0.2 1.9 ± 0.2 1.8 ± 0.3 1.5 ± 0.1 1.4 ± 0.2
Formulation Test [00140] In the following tests, ethylene carbonate or trimethylene carbonate were mixed with various commercial hair care products and the mixtures were evaluated for straightening efficiency.
[00141] Ethylene carbonate or trimethylene carbonate was melted at about 40 ° C and the resulting liquid was quickly added to the selected commercial product and mixed until homogeneous. In the following tests, the EC or TC active level of the mixture was 15% by weight to 30% by weight.
[00142] After subjecting the curly hair curl to the same thermal hair straightening process as described above, as shown in Table 7, similar straightening results were obtained for those obtained for the tests described above for the simple aqueous solutions, suggesting that the hair straightening composition can be formulated with a variety of conventional hair care aids without harmful effect. It can be mentioned that none of the commercial products used in the tests provided a long-lasting semi-permanent hair straightening effect when used alone, although some did provide an initial straightening effect that was lost after a single wash, based on an examination visual.
Table 7: Commercial Product Mixtures
% by weight of thermally activated agent Smoothing efficiency (No. of shampoo wash cycles Commercial A (gel formulation, fixative) 15% EC > 30 Commercial B (crisp reducer) 25% TC > 30 Commercial C (creamy curl reducer) 20% EC > 30 Comercial D (creamy styling fixing formulation) 30% EC > 30 Commercial E (creamy smoothing formulation) 30% EC > 30 Comercial F (straightening formulation containing keratin) 30% EC > 30
[00143] The results show the compatibility of ethylene carbonate and trimethylene carbonate with a wide range of compositions. EXAMPLE COMPOSITIONS [00144] Table 8 shows an example spray formulation.
Table 8: Hair Curling Reducing Spray
Ingredient Occupation % in Weight of Assets Ethanol solvent 20.0 Ethylene carbonate thermally activated agent 10.0 Polysilicon-9 hair fixing agent 0.7 Cetrimonium Chloride surfactant, agentconditioner 0.3 Propylene glycol Humectant 2.0 Benzilic alcohol Solvent 1.0 Malic acid PH modifier 3.0 Lactic acid PH modifier 2.0 Sodium hydroxide PH modifier q.s. for pH = 4.5 Hydrolyzed keratin Conditioning agent q. ^s . Benzophenone-4 UV absorber q. ^s . Fragrance Fragrance q. ^s . Disodium EDTA Chelating agent q. ^s . Methylchloroisothiazolinone (e)Methylisothiazolinone preservative q. ^s . Water solvent q.s. to 100
/ 50 [00145] Table 9 shows an example of a creamy formulation.
Table 9: Hair Volume Control Cream
Ingredient Occupation % in Weight of Assets Ethylene carbonate Thermally activated agent 15.0 Liquid paraffin Rheology modifier, emollient 3.0 Cetyl alcohol Conditioning agent 2.5 Diisopropyl adipate Emulsifier 1.5 Cetrimonium chloride (50%) Conditioning agent 2.8 Cetearet-20 Emulsifier 0.5 Fragrance Fragrance 0.5 Citric Acid (10%) pH modifier 0.2 NaOH (18%) pH modifier q.s. for pH = 5.0 - 6.0 Methylchloroisothiazolinone (e)methylisothiazolinone Preservative 0.05 Water Solvent for EC q.s. to 100
[00146] Table 10 shows another example formulation.
Table 10: Hair Straightening System
Ingredient Occupation % by weight Ethylene carbonate Thermally agentactivated 30.0 Liquid paraffin Emollient 3.0 Cetearyl alcohol Conditioning agent 2.5 Diisopropyl adipate Emulsifier 1.5 Beenthrimone chloride Conditioning agent 1.5 Cetearet-20 Emulsifier 0.5 Citric Acid (10%) pH modifier 0.2 NaOH (18%) pH modifier q.s. for pH = 4.5 - 6.5 Fragrance Fragrance 0.5 Methylchloroisothiazolinone (e) Methylisothiazolinone Preservative 0.05 Water Solvent for EC q.s. to 100
[00147] Table 11 shows another example formulation.
Table 11: Hair Straightening with Shine
Ingredient Occupation % by weight Ethylene carbonate Thermally agentactivated 30.0 Amodimethicone Conditioning agent 3.0 Cetearyl alcohol Conditioning agent 2.5 Tridecet-5 Emulsifier 0.5 Polyquaternium-37 Conditioning agent 0.8 Phenoxyethanol Preservative 0.5 Propylene glycol Humectant 1.5 Dicaprilato / Dicaprato Emollient 1.0 Phenyl trimethicone Conditioning agent 1.0 Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose Rheology modifier 0.5 Benzilic alcohol Solvent 0.5 Polysorbate 60 Emulsifier 0.3 Citric Acid (10%) pH modifier 0.2 NaOH (18%) pH modifier q.s. for pH = 5.0 - 6.0 Fragrance Fragrance 0.5 Methylchloroisothiazolinone (e) Preservative 0.05
/ 50
Ingredient Occupation % by weight Methylisothiazolinone Water Solvent q.s. to 100
[00148] Table 12 shows an example gel formulation.
Table 12: Hair Straightening Gel
Ingredient Occupation % by weight Ethylene carbonate Thermally activated agent 20.0 Disodium EDTA Chelating agent 0.05 Glycerin Emollient 2.0 Carbopol® 940 Rheology modifier 0.2 Fixate® RSP (polyacrylic acid and sodium polyacrylate fixing polymer) Hair Fixing Agent 0.6 Triethanolamine (99%) pH modifier q.s. for pH = 5.0 Benzilic alcohol Organic solvent 0.05 Fragrance Fragrance q. ^s . Methylchloroisothiazolinone (e)Methylisothiazolinone Preservative q. ^s . Water Solvent q.s. to 100
[00149] Each of the documents mentioned above is hereby incorporated by reference in its entirety. Except in the Examples, or where otherwise explicitly indicated, all numerical quantities in this description specifying material quantities, reaction conditions, molecular weights, number of carbon atoms, and the like, are to be understood as modified by the word "about . ” Unless otherwise indicated, each chemical or composition referred to herein must be interpreted as being a commercial grade material that may contain isomers, by-products, derivatives, and other such materials that are normally understood to be present in the commercial grade . However, the amount of each chemical component is shown exclusively for any solvent or diluent oil, which may normally be present in commercial material, unless otherwise indicated. It should be understood that the upper and lower limits of quantity, range, and ratio presented here can be independently combined. Similarly, the ranges and amounts for each element of the invention can be used together with the ranges or amounts for any of the other elements. As used herein, the term “essentially consisting of” allows the inclusion of substances that do not materially affect the basic and new characteristics of the composition under consideration. As used here, any member of a genre (or list) can be excluded from claims.
[00150] It will be assessed that the variants of the above and other features and functions, or alternatives thereof, can be combined in many other different systems or applications. Various alternatives, modifications, variations or improvements presently unforeseen or unexpected in it can subsequently be made by those skilled in the art who are also intended to be covered by the claims that follow.
/ 1

权利要求:
Claims (6)
[1]
1. Use of a sulfite-free compound comprising at least 5% by weight of ethylene carbonate, characterized by the fact that it is to straighten the hair by:
coating the keratin fibers with said compound, and contacting the coated keratin fibers with a heating device at a temperature of at least 200 ° C for sufficient time to modify the keratin fibers.
[2]
2. Use according to claim 1, characterized by the fact that the compound additionally comprises a solvent selected from water, C1-C12 alcohols, and combinations thereof.
[3]
Use according to claim 1, characterized by the fact that ethylene carbonate is present in the compound in a concentration of up to 95% by weight, or up to 70% by weight.
[4]
4. Use according to claim 1, characterized by the fact that the compound has a pH of up to 9.5 or the compound has a pH of up to 7.5, or the compound has a pH of at least 4.5 .
[5]
5. Use according to claim 1, characterized by the fact that the compound comprises a pH modifier selected from acids and bases.
[6]
6. Use according to claim 1, characterized by the fact that the compound has a viscosity of at least 400 cps.
Petition 870190106635, of 10/21/2019, p. 13/13

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法律状态:
2018-02-27| B06F| Objections, documents and/or translations needed after an examination request according art. 34 industrial property law|

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2019-07-23| B06U| Preliminary requirement: requests with searches performed by other patent offices: suspension of the patent application procedure|

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2020-02-27| B09A| Decision: intention to grant|

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2020-04-22| B16A| Patent or certificate of addition of invention granted|Free format text: PRAZO DE VALIDADE: 20 (VINTE) ANOS CONTADOS A PARTIR DE 03/02/2014, OBSERVADAS AS CONDICOES LEGAIS. |

优先权:

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申请号 | 申请日 | 专利标题

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US201361761326P| true| 2013-02-06|2013-02-06|

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PCT/US2014/014409|WO2014123805A1|2013-02-06|2014-02-03|Semi-permanent hair straightening composition and method|

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